This game has been on my list for some time, and despite it being a "common" game that showed up occasionally, they were usually out of my price range, but one popped up for sale recently that was listed as non-working, from a classified ad and I was happy to have been able to snag it. As with my other project games, this thread is meant for me to document fixes, vent frustrations, and get some help as I work through bringing this Joker Poker back to life. This will be my first System 1, so hoping that some knowledge and experience from Bally SS can carry across. The game was delivered as non-working. After initial set up, I looked at the boards and connectors and see that it came with a Rottendog power supply and a Ni-Wumpf MPU, unbeknownst to the seller (not a pin person). It appears to have the original driver board but looks clean. Good news to me since that's about half of the cost of the game 
I also see that a lot of the connectors have been reworked, so at some point, someone cared enough for this game to put in time, money and effort. Something that can't be said about most projects. In any case, that was a bit of relief as the brains, from what I know, are in a good spot.
Some things upon initial power up. When I plug it in, it turns on. The power switch does nothing, so the switch either must have failed with the circuit closed, or was non-working and the game must have been wired to turn on/off only at the plug. More investigation needs to occur to see exactly what happened but I ordered a 20A toggle switch to replace it. This would be my first time replacing a power switch, so if this isn't the correct rating, let me know! The reason I went with this one was that Marco has an equivalent rated at 15A. The main board fuse is rated at 5A, from what I've learned. A new power cord will also be installed.
The game does boot, after reattaching connecters; it plays a chime sequence upon boot. The scores cycle between zero and whatever the last score was (625K points) and credits and match display shows. There are credits in the game. However, pressing the "start" button does nothing. There is a red button installed in the front of the cabinet, which I didn't catch in pictures, presumably a credit button. There are wires cut inside the coin door. Some go to the installed button, some disconnected altogether. The diagnostic button does not work, so I can't get into any operator menus. The coin door tilt switch is also detached (wires cut).
So first order of operation after the new power cord and switch, will be to return the wiring back to original.
I'm guessing the culprit will be the tilt switch, since the switch is NC and if the wires to it are cut, the switch is now open, thus registering a permanent Tilt. Is my logic wrong here? I'll also disconnect the credit button, and restore those wires to their original connections, and mod the bottom board with a jumper wire for "free play." If I do a cabinet restore I'll remove the button and fill the hole. There are no coin mechs or credit switches, so if the wires need to hang, then I'll just tidy them up. Regardless, the wiring will return to stock as much as possible. The knocker wiring has been disconnected and plunger removed. It was that much of a bother I suppose (smh).
Pics to come soon. I'm hoping it doesn't take much to get the game going. The playfield looks dirty, but it seems clean otherwise. Newer pop bumper caps, newer flipper bats and drop targets, so it wasn't completely neglected.
Lodi, CA
Not sure on that one, but have heard they can be hard to come by.
