(Topic ID: 116690)

Joker Poker Problems


By Insane

5 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 31 posts
  • 8 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 years ago by Ralph67
  • Topic is favorited by 2 Pinsiders

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#1 5 years ago

I bought a Joker Poker in Dec, The previous owner couldn't get everything working and was tired of messing with it. It has NiWumph MPU and Driver board, and Rottendog Power supply.

According to him he could never get "Kings" drops to reset. The first time I had a chance to check it out, There were a couple of plugs in the backbox unhooked, I hooked them up, and coined up. All the sounds seemed to work and I "played" a game. Not noticing if the Kings reset or not.

The 2nd time I had a chance to really check it out, I turned it on, NO sound, coined it up, No flippers, pops, or slingshots. Didn't have the manual or anything with me. (its at the in-laws)

Today I took the manual and started investigating. It did the same thing, no Flippers etc.
I looked at the wires in the backbox and on connector A1-J7, wire 12 is broke, in the manual it says it is Return 0. Can anyone tell me what that means, also according to the book it says that there should be wires in 10 and 11, I don't have any wires there, they are return 7 & 6 respectively. I also don't see any loose wires in the loom. Somewhere along the lines, someone cut the J7 and J6 connectors off and spliced wires into new connectors. they look small gauge, if they aren't correct can that be some of my problems. I also had a spare interconnect cable for between the MPU and Driver, and I tried that, NO change.

If you have a Joker Poker, can you see if you have wires in 10 and 11 on A1-J7. also any other advice is greatly appreciated.

Sorry for the Novel..

#2 5 years ago

Joker Poker and early Gottliebs are famous for bad grounding, search the forums for Gottlieb System 1 Ground Mods and also re-pinning connectors is the second biggest PITA, it sounds like someone did a hack job instead of re-pinning. Schematics/manual are available from The Pinball Resource (and probably on eBay).

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/WBRVG-LjGYWwJJHMEboiK9MTjNZETYmyPJy0liipFm0?feat=directlink

If I can remember when I get home I'll look further.....

#3 5 years ago

Here is a pic from my JP. Be sure to check all the pin connectors and/or repin.

a63.JPG

#4 5 years ago
Quoted from ripple:

Here is a pic from my JP. Be sure to check all the pin connectors and/or repin.

a63.JPG 36 KB

Ok, so your connect looks like mine, as in the number of wires. The schematic in the book shows wires in the 10 and 11 position.

I plan on redoing the connector with correct size wire and new pins. I will also see if any of the ground mods have been done, I'm familiar with them ( I have a black hole that I am also working on)
I know system 1 vs 80, not exactly the same, but same concept..

#5 5 years ago

Does anyone own a SS Joker Poker that always works properly? I swear mine was created by the devil. Now when I turn it on, the displays will not come on for 4-5 tries. Once they do, it works flawlessly for 6 hours+ until is sits overnight again. Crazy!

edit: I turned it on and it worked flawlessly for an hour. I give up.

#6 5 years ago

Mine works pretty darned ok after I did the grounding mods.

#7 5 years ago
Quoted from Insane:

If you have a Joker Poker, can you see if you have wires in 10 and 11 on A1-J7.

from the manual thats returns 6 and 7 - unused on this machine

#8 5 years ago
Quoted from Insane:

wire 12 is broke, in the manual it says it is Return 0. Can anyone tell me what that means

its the return from the playfield tilt switch

#9 5 years ago

Kings reset will either be the fuse on it under the playfield, the transistor under the playfield, A3J1 pin 1, Q17 on the driver board or gremlins. Maybe Gremlins.. assume not.

#10 5 years ago
Quoted from wiredoug:

Kings reset will either be the fuse on it under the playfield, the transistor under the playfield, A3J1 pin 1, Q17 on the driver board or gremlins. Maybe Gremlins.. assume not.

Thanks for the info, i'll check these out. The driver board is NiWumph replacement, so hopefully not that.

1 month later
#11 4 years ago

Ok, first time i had the chance to get back at this, damn weather , So i checked out the transistor under the pf, it seems to read bad. Also i coined it up and the Q relay isn't pulling in (which would control the flippers, bumpers etc.). I checked, and it had no power at the lugs. So it looks like i need to check connector A3-J5 wire 18, having a hard time reading the schematic, what should the voltage be? Also if i don't have power at the connector, any suggestions? It is a NiWumph Driver board. I did check all the fuses, and they all read good.

#12 4 years ago

What you talking about damn weather.. its a lovely sunny day here.? You must be doing it wrong

explain "having a hard time reading the schematics" .. Its not clear if its because you only have a blurry copy or because you dont know how to read them ? Tell me so i can adjust advice appropriately

#13 4 years ago

They are a good copy, and I can read schematics somewhat. So probably more of I don't know how.
And as far as the weather, I MUST be doing it wrong.

#14 4 years ago

2nd question, whats a good place to get this transistor. I would like to order it with other items, i didnt see it at pinball resources, or some of the other vendors that i usually get video game components from.

#15 4 years ago

probably greatplains electronics will have it. I will help you with the schematic later today ( its 1145am here)

#16 4 years ago

no worries my friend. I didn't see it on Great Plains Website either. Marco has it so i might have to go that route.

#17 4 years ago

oops i forgot you sorry.. today promise.

MJ2955 from GPE would do you. or yeah marco is good too

from the repair guide
"2N5879 (or 2N5880 or 2N5883 or 2N5884 or MJ2955) power transistor for under-the-playfield. Another substitue for the 2n5875 is the MJ2955, which is an inexpensive alternative."

#18 4 years ago

ok, thanks for that, i'll check them out so I can get an order put together and hopefully ordered this weekend.

#19 4 years ago

Ok so i got back over today and this is what i found. I do have 25V at the Q relay, but it still isnt pulling in. When i start a game, no flippers, pops, or chimes. I decided to change the driver board to the rottendog from the Niwumph, after changing, the pops, flippers and chimes all worked. Game seemed to work correctly with the exception of the kings drops(waiting for the transistor to arrive). I did read on the Niwumph website that their driver board doesnt like Bigdaddy interconnect cables with diodes. Not sure if its that brand specifically, or any with diodes. I have changed out the interconnect (it came with a couple). I did have the niwumph board work correctly, but not sure if that was before or after i changed the cable. Also mu niwumph cpu is V3.49 PCB0001 - Rev. L
I am thinking that the interconect might be my issue with the niwumph not working, really not sure. I know the chimes are controlled by the driver, but are they at all controlled by the Q relay? or is it a coincidence that they both seemed to have issues at the same time.

1 week later
#20 4 years ago

So today, i replaced the playfield mounted transistor for the king's drops. Checked the coil for the king's drops while i was there, coil measured bad, disconnected the diode, determined it was bad, not the coil. Replaced it. Turned it on, still doesn't work. Checked continuity on the wire controlling the transistor, its good, repinned the end at the driver board, still no good. Any suggestions, i am currently running the Niwumph CPU, and the Rottendog driver board and power supply. Could it be any of the wires going to the cpu, specifically anything on A1-J6 or J7 as they have been cut and extended. Also i should have double checked the associated fuse and that the new transistor is good. But assuming both are. I am at a loss...please help..

#21 4 years ago

I went back to where the game is. I tested the playfield fuses, all tested good. The transistor tested bad. I got out another new transistor, tested it, good. installed it, also installed the 4.7k pull-up resistor mod. Plugged the niwumph board back in. Started a game, no chimes, flips, or pops. And the kings drops still won't reset. Plugged the Rottendog driver in, brought back the chimes, flips and pops. Still no kings drop reset. i retested the just installed transistor, and i think it test bad. aaarrrgghhhh... Where one board works and not the other i think might be a connector issue, i think the RD board might be a hair thicker and maybe making better contact with whatever connector controls the pops etc..

Please help....

#22 4 years ago

ok i came back .. but in amongst all your posts its hard to find the questions so here is some from me

1: have you repinned the connectors yet?

2: have you checked the transistors on the driver boards?

I dont know either board ( i use either the original or pascal version only) but transistors in general can be checked in diode mode with a multimeter

#23 4 years ago

I believe the connectors were all repinned by previous owner. I know for sure that some were. I will repin them all. I haven't checked the transistors on the driver board, i'll find the info to do that.

#24 4 years ago

I have checked the transistor on the Niwupmh Driver board, and it appears to be bad. I can't check the rottendog as it appears it isnt controlled by a transistor, but by a chip. I am really hoping to get this all working to take to Pinball at the Zoo , so i have about a month. I am sending the NiWumph board to them to be repaired and checked. I could easily replace the transistor, but i still have an issue with the Q relay when using that board, so i want them to go though it, so i know its all good. The question is with the transistor on the board bad, would that take out the one on the playfield?

3 weeks later
#25 4 years ago

Hey Insane,

Sorry you're having troubles. I have a Countdown with a Pascal board. It has taken me 3 years to figure it out. In the end it was the under play field transistors. They would instantly blow every time I replaced them. I had not done the resistor mods before installing the Pascal board, and I had an issue of drop targets not resetting. I thought it was the boards, So I installed the Pascal board, and I think I damaged it in the process, because the solenoid was still sticking because of the bad transistor. Once I did the resistor mod, replaced the transistors, and then got the Pascal board repaired...... wa la.... it worked. It took doing all those things in that order to make it finally work.

#26 4 years ago

I ended up having a 2 bad transistors on my NiWumph, Ace at NiWumph took care of it. I went through all the connectors and also replaced some wires that someone had used to extend a couple of the connectors. I also double checked all diodes on the coils, there was one backwards. I had already added the resistor pull up mod on the drop with the underplayfield mounted transistor. I replaced that transistor again and now everything works great.

#27 4 years ago

Took the game to PATZ. On friday, the aces drops quit resetting. I thought the transistor on the driver board went bad. Saturday, i tried the Rottendog driver, and the kings relay locked on and i melted the coil, before i realized it. i probably blew the undermount transistor again. then i realized the aces fuse was blown, installed a new one and it blew immediately. So all kinds of new problems....

1 month later
#28 4 years ago

So, I got a chance to look at this finally. I started bu checking all the fuses, found out most were massively over amped. I put in the correct ones, replaced the kings coil, transistor,diode and resistor, it now works correctly. The aces locks on as soon as I turn the game on, until it blows the fuse. I have checked the coil, it measures good (3.6) checked the diode, it seems fine, replaced anyway, same issue. I have an led lit on the Niwumph driver board, that I believe tells me something is bad, just not sure what. Double checked the wiring, seems fine. I have emailed Ace at Niwumph, waiting for a response. Any suggestions are greatly appreciated. I also have done the recommended ground mods.

DSC02491.JPG
#29 4 years ago

The target bank reset coil may be shorting to the metal target bank assembly, Had this problem on a Haunted House recently, It blew the underside transistor straight away , Just touching it was
Look close at the coil lug near target bank .
Good luck

#30 4 years ago
Quoted from Ralph67:

The target bank reset coil may be shorting to the metal target bank assembly, Had this problem on a Haunted House recently, It blew the underside transistor straight away , Just touching it was
Look close at the coil lug near target bank .
Good luck

You mean where the coil wires attach, correct? I'll double check that.

#31 4 years ago
Quoted from Insane:

You mean where the coil wires attach, correct? I'll double check that.

Yes that's right , Where the wires connect , Just make sure one of the coil lugs is not shorting , The Haunted House coil had moved slightly and shorted across to the metal target bank housing , worth a look just to double check ..

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