sorry for the late reply I just found this topic.

I'd check the playfield switch connector. It's in the corrosion zone. Make sure the connector is tight and the pins and the pads on the board are shiny. Then do a switch test and make sure everything is reporting correctly

wow it looks like you are correct. my bad. I guess put the game into play and activate switches and make sure things react as expected

System 80 machines sometimes have a power on thunk where a coil or coils fire. While I hadn't heard about that with system 1 machines I don't imagine the design flaw that causes it to happen was corrected then.

While doing some reaearch on this I found:

https://groups.google.com/g/rec.games.pinball/c/WLEm0UZEd-Y/m/K0nYF1CiAAAJ talking about a reset and Kings targets that reset on boot because they are driven by a lamp driver and a message about adding a resistor to under playfield transistors to avoid this.

https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Gottlieb_System_1#Remote_Mounted_Transistor_Upgrade

The coil fires because of an unknown state on the driver board while the mpu is booting. It called the power on thunk and not having it is good

I bulletproofed a system 80 (but system 1 is not too different in this regard) and recrimped the interconnect and a bunch of other connectors. I estimate about 200 crimps total. The interconnect is 56 by itself. The pascal eliminates the power connector from the power supply to the mpu and the interconnect. At a minimum the power connector from the bottom board should be recrimped. The display and lamp connectors only need to be recrimped as needed (look for missing segments or lamps that don't light). The playfield and cabinet switches are always suspect as they are in the corrosion zone. I usually redo these. It makes sense to do the solenoid driver pins but this can be avoided if the connector is tight and nothing is locking on at boot.

With lamps, solenoids, display digits and segments can be traced back to specific pins so they can be reviewed in the normal tests.

Check and reseat all the connectors. I'd bet at least 1 has come loose.

I'm assuming one got shaken loose being moved with the head up. But it seems less likely they would have come loose if they had been recrimped

I don't see a setting for it. Explains why EBs were on at INDISC

Yeah all of the 10 point switches are wired in parallel.

I don't think a new driver will help here except for a couple things (answering your new thread). It doesn't look like the ni-wumpf has an anti-thunk delay and I think that is the cause your lock on. The ni-wumpf on the other hand probably has better protection if a diode fails. Early drivers don't have protection diodes on the coil drivers. You should check this on pinwiki and see if yours does. It's easy to add. The protection diodes protect your MPU since coil voltage could travel across a shorted transistor and back over the interconnect.

You can easily test the transistors on your driver using these instructions: https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=General#Testing_a_Transistor.2C_Silicon_Controlled_Rectifier_.28SCR.29_or_Field_Effect_Transistor_.28FET.29

The only way all of the controlled coils would lock on is if all of the related transistors were shorted. Those instructions can test those.

A test I always do after a swap is this: with the driver board disconnected (bottom connectors) I put my DMM on DC, black on ground and I measure voltage at each assembly. I am looking for a coil that is shorting to the mechanism. Just touch the metal of the assembly not the coil itself

one of the rubbers on a 10 point switch is too tight. You can simulate by banging on the playfield in a game to find which one.

The voltage test is to make sure a coil isn't shorted to the metal of the mech. You might see millivolts there but if you see 25V you got a problem. I'd say since it is playing that's a good start.

I'd say your flip too often is a slam tilt and it's ending the game. Check your tilt relay when it happens. If it's not engaged that's what you did. Check your tilt lamp. You can also simulate this by opening the slam switch on the coin door

And that lamp is good and comes on in lamp test?

Just pull 1 leg of a 10 point switch outside a rubber until you find the one that's causing the scoring