(Topic ID: 212775)

Joker Poker Club -- Feel Free to Chime In!


By TractorDoc

2 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 145 posts
  • 51 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 50 days ago by Krupps4
  • Topic is favorited by 20 Pinsiders

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There are 145 posts in this topic. You are on page 3 of 3.
#101 1 year ago
Quoted from tktlwyr:

Well, I finished the restoration today. This week I cleaned the transformer board, new sockets/wiring on the lamp insert panel, Boston Pinball LED displays, coin door installed (frame is temporary while the other is getting polished), most of the metal in the cabinet was re-plated in nickel-chrome, all new hardware and topped of with Comet sunlight frosted LEDs in the backbox/GI.

[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Just curious, and if you don't mind sharing, what was the cost of re-chroming all the parts you have done? A ball park would be good. It certainly looks killer! I have always wanted to do that to at least one game.

#102 1 year ago

i have my joker poker up and running after a long wait. it's my first SS pin and and i gotta say that it's a nice change of pace from having the huge numbers of relays and switch stacks to deal with in my EM machines. the pascal 4 in 1 is an amazing board and it's cool being able to have so many ways to change game play if you so choose. i picked this machine up locally and it was missing all the boards plus the power supply so the pascal all in one was the natural choice. i repinned all the connectors and installed a new back glass. the drop targets contained 4 or 5 from another game plus the originals were beat up so new targets were put in as well as new plastics. the 100's chime was extremely weak and the plunger was rarely making contact with the chime bar. the culprit was the rubber cushioning strip that the plungers rest on. in the 100's spot, the rubber was worn down to the metal so i replaced the strip with a section of pipe insulation foam. works great. the left pop bumper was actuating but not scoring or sounding the chime because of a missing switch blade. replaced that and it's working properly now. i had ordered a CPR replacement playfield but decided against it because this playfield is in pretty nice shape. i may put one in later on though. only question i have is that the aces bank reset coil and the upper flipper coil are both lacking a diode. i'm assuming these coils should have one?

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#103 1 year ago
Quoted from Mombo-number-5:

Just curious, and if you don't mind sharing, what was the cost of re-chroming all the parts you have done? A ball park would be good. It certainly looks killer! I have always wanted to do that to at least one game.

IIRC, it was about $600 to polish the siderails and lockdown, plate the door and metal on rear of backbox and hinges. Included in that price was also replating the metal in the cabinet, too, but not chrome.

#104 1 year ago

Joker Poker fans-I'd really appreciate it if someone could take a quick look at their Aces reset bank coil and compare it to the pic. Are you're wires oriented on the lugs as mine or are they reversed? Trying to sort out a blowing under-playfield fuse and this coil's locking up when the game is being powered on. This happened after i added a diode to it in what should have been the correct orientation.
THANKS!!!

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#105 1 year ago
Quoted from beadwindow:

Joker Poker fans-I'd really appreciate it if someone could take a quick look at their Aces reset bank coil and compare it to the pic. Are you're wires oriented on the lugs as mine or are they reversed? Trying to sort out a blowing under-playfield fuse and this coil's locking up when the game is being powered on. This happened after i added a diode to it in what should have been the correct orientation.
THANKS!!![quoted image]

According to the manual the White/Black wire should be connected to the diode cathode (striped side of diode).
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#106 1 year ago

Thanks much Woz! I see now that the banded side is matched to the correct wire and not the lug. I was following the example of all the other coils and put the banded end on the same side of the coil but since my wires are the reverse of yours, things went sideways.
Anyone else do this with a Pascal board and have anything else damaged besides the Q7 transistor?

2 weeks later
#107 1 year ago

I waited two years to find my first pin that I could afford and was close enough to pickup... And I finally have it! SS Joker Poker! It needed some TCL just to get working (Kings coil pull up resistor, driver board new transistor, some coils were EM without diodes and we're shocking the whole machine on every flip, etc).

But I learned a decent amount and got it 100% working! So stoked to finally be a part of the JP club!

Cosmetically, she needs a lot, but that can come in time. Lots more to learn. But in the meantime, I get a pretty awesome game!

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#108 12 months ago
Quoted from BearMetal:

I waited two years to find my first pin that I could afford and was close enough to pickup... And I finally have it! SS Joker Poker! It needed some TCL just to get working (Kings coil pull up resistor, driver board new transistor, some coils were EM without diodes and we're shocking the whole machine on every flip, etc).
But I learned a decent amount and got it 100% working! So stoked to finally be a part of the JP club!
Cosmetically, she needs a lot, but that can come in time. Lots more to learn. But in the meantime, I get a pretty awesome game![quoted image][quoted image]

looks pretty decent.
Back glass looks ok, fun game.

2 weeks later
#109 11 months ago

Got my Joker Poker working after having Ace with Ni-Wumpf repair the MPU board. I guess I'm in the club now.

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#110 11 months ago

Hi pinsiders
I refer to post-39 - here https://classicplayfields.com/shop/pinball-backglasses/joker-poker/ they offer a new backglass - NOT a translite. Somewhere they mention "Global shipping with UPS".
This http://bgresto.com/pics/gtb_jokerpoker2s.jpg I believe is a (partial ?) restoration of an existing, old backglass.

I would like to get informations to:
- Is it possible to have a translite mounted - shipment much easyer ? - how does a (repro) translite look in the pin ? - noticable different than an painted (repro) glass ?
- Who sells translites ? (preferrably in Europe)
- Who sells reproductions of Backglass(es) ? - in Europe ?
- When You just write "CPR" --- do You mean "classicplayfields.com" ?
- Have You (pinsider in Europe) got a CPR Backglass shipped ? --- did it came to Your place "not damaged" ?

See the JPGs - worst is area "player-3 counter" - is there an easy fix to do by myself ? - or should I just let it "as is" ? (The JPGs show what I bought (many years ago)) Greetings Rolf

0Joker-Poker-01 (resized).JPG0Joker-Poker-02 (resized).JPG0Joker-Poker-03 (resized).JPG
#111 11 months ago

Both CPR/Classic Playfields Reproductions and BGResto are glass.

The CPR/Classic Playfields version is the better of the two ON THIS TITLE. Although BGResto glasses are very nice, the lettering on the glasses appears fuzzy when backlit.

Either will ship them properly and I hav never received a damaged one from either.

2 weeks later
#112 11 months ago

I feel really dumb asking this, but I've searched high and low and can't figure this out. What is the bottom left display for? The one that's next to the ball-in-play display. It seems to just spit out random numbers.

#113 11 months ago
Quoted from BearMetal:

What is the bottom left display for? The one that's next to the ball-in-play display. It seems to just spit out random numbers.

Number to Match?

After a game if the number displayed matches the last two numbers of your score you get a free game or credit.

Could also be how many credits you have on the game if not in free play?

#114 11 months ago

Ball in play and number to match are the right display. It's in free play mode.. I have no idea what the left display is.
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#115 11 months ago

Had a reset on play today. Everything went dead, then it appeared to reboot(Ni Wumpf MPU). Kinda acted like a slam tilt. Do I need to disable the slam tilts on this thing?

1 week later
#116 10 months ago
Quoted from ThatOneDude:

Had a reset on play today. Everything went dead, then it appeared to reboot(Ni Wumpf MPU). Kinda acted like a slam tilt. Do I need to disable the slam tilts on this thing?

I think in TNT's video of one, he mentions a slam switch on the coin door that if not having good contact will cause crazy issues. Can the ni wumpf board disable stuff like that with a setting or will you just physically disable?

I didn't realize I didn't post in here. I got my Joker Poker about a year ago, it is a basket case and I was told the small transformer smokes. So i'll be going pascal all-in-one board and boston's led displays w/ a arcade power unit to run a few voltages to make up for the small transformer being down. Pretty excited to get that game cleaned up! I'll bring it home to work on, after Pinball Pool and Galaxy

#117 10 months ago
Quoted from rolf_martin_062:

Hi pinsiders
I refer to post-39 - here https://classicplayfields.com/shop/pinball-backglasses/joker-poker/ they offer a new backglass - NOT a translite. Somewhere they mention "Global shipping with UPS".
This http://bgresto.com/pics/gtb_jokerpoker2s.jpg I believe is a (partial ?) restoration of an existing, old backglass.
I would like to get informations to:
- Is it possible to have a translite mounted - shipment much easyer ? - how does a (repro) translite look in the pin ? - noticable different than an painted (repro) glass ?
- Who sells translites ? (preferrably in Europe)
- Who sells reproductions of Backglass(es) ? - in Europe ?
- When You just write "CPR" --- do You mean "classicplayfields.com" ?
- Have You (pinsider in Europe) got a CPR Backglass shipped ? --- did it came to Your place "not damaged" ?
See the JPGs - worst is area "player-3 counter" - is there an easy fix to do by myself ? - or should I just let it "as is" ? (The JPGs show what I bought (many years ago)) Greetings Rolf[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

you could probably scrape the blue from the glass then use the blue acetate? trick, if that is the worst of the problem. Clay talks about it in some of his videos.

1 week later
#118 10 months ago

I need to replace all of the drop targets, and am wondering if there is an "easy way" to replace the 10, Jack & Queen targets.

If I remove the entire assembly from the game I have a lot of switches to remove as well as the coils.

Would like to do this in a way that will keep me from causing a lot of collateral damage.

Robert

#119 10 months ago

mrsanramon If I recall correctly, you should be able to leave the drop bank mech installed on the field and simply drop the bottom plate.

Use a dental pick to remove the springs, and slide the targets out the bottom of the mech.

Slide new targets up and in, reattach springs, refasten the bottom plate and you should be back in business.

#120 10 months ago
Quoted from xeneize:

mrsanramon If I recall correctly, you should be able to leave the drop bank mech installed on the field and simply drop the bottom plate.
Use a dental pick to remove the springs, and slide the targets out the bottom of the mech.
Slide new targets up and in, reattach springs, refasten the bottom plate and you should be back in business.

I hope this works! I have a couple sys1 games to replace drops on.

#121 10 months ago
Quoted from northvibe:

I hope this works! I have a couple sys1 games to replace drops on.

It does, this is exactly how I do it, it is actually really easy once you get the hang of it.

#122 10 months ago
Quoted from xeneize:

Use a dental pick to remove the springs, and slide the targets out the bottom of the mech. Slide new targets up and in, reattach springs, refasten the bottom plate and you should be back in business.

What time can you be over?

Robert

#123 10 months ago
Quoted from ralphwiggum:

It does, this is exactly how I do it, it is actually really easy once you get the hang of it.

My joker poker is at work but my pinball pool is at home. I was looking at pinball pool last night and I wasn’t sure the drop target would slide out of the bottom. It looked like the target face is too wide to fit through the top plate of the mech.

Dang I should of took a pic. I’ll be back at my office next week and can look at joker poker, and see if it’s different.

#124 10 months ago
Quoted from MrSanRamon:

Would like to do this in a way that will keep me from causing a lot of collateral damage.

I will check on mine to verify.

#125 10 months ago

Guys, it works. Just did it last night to make sure.

Quoted from MrSanRamon:

What time can you be over?

Wish you were closer!

#126 10 months ago
Quoted from northvibe:

My joker poker is at work but my pinball pool is at home. I was looking at pinball pool last night and I wasn’t sure the drop target would slide out of the bottom. It looked like the target face is too wide to fit through the top plate of the mech.
Dang I should of took a pic. I’ll be back at my office next week and can look at joker poker, and see if it’s different.

The target slide out from the top you can't pull them down through the playfield.

Robert

#127 10 months ago
Quoted from MrSanRamon:

The target slide out from the top you can't pull them down through the playfield.
Robert

Ah, that’s what I figured. What is the best way to get the metal arm out from the middle of the drop target? Maybe when the bottom is unhooked it can be wiggled free?

#128 10 months ago

northvibe Correct, once it is free at the bottom, it will have some slack left/right, which will allow you to slide it UP out out of the bank (thanks, Robert for correcting my mis-statement).

#129 10 months ago

Awesome! I'll be trying this when I get to work on my joker poker and pinball pool new targets for both, thanks!

#130 10 months ago

Wish I had known these tricks, I just dropped the whole bank and replaced the ones I needed to.

#131 10 months ago

Well, I got the 10, jacks & queen targets replaced...it wasn’t really hard but it wasn’t easy either.

You need to take the bottom piece off as well as the “Side” piece that is closest to back of the game.

This tool is what I used with the springs:

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The targets are removed through the top of the playfield.

Robert

#132 10 months ago

In need of a backbox light board and harness. Please PM me if you have one, thanks!

#134 10 months ago
Quoted from John_I:

Captive spring hook tool is the only way to go!

+1 on that, used one to change all my drops on Joker Poker

2 weeks later
#135 9 months ago

I'm not part of the club, but I thought you'd enjoy this...
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#136 9 months ago
Quoted from wylcot:

I'm not part of the club, but I thought you'd enjoy this...
[quoted image]

EM version!

Prolly needs work. Drops need replacing. I'll give you $250 for it. Pick-up in an hour, k'thnx.

#137 9 months ago

pick it up , you'll need a crane !

#138 9 months ago
Quoted from OTTOgd:

EM version!

Wrong playfield graphics. Seems to be missing the clown. I have seen a hybrid in real life once though.

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#139 9 months ago
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#140 9 months ago

Still looking for SS Joker Poker light board and harness for backbox. Striking out in my wanted ad, hoping I'll have some luck in the thread lol. Please PM me if you have something, thanks!

3 weeks later
#141 8 months ago

I’m trying to turn off extra balls on a NiWumpf, but having no luck. I’ll check to see if I have the latest 3.54 firmware next I guess. If I remember right, the extra ball/add a ball setting only goes as low as 1, not zero. The special award gives extra balls whether I set it to zero or 1. I didn’t see anything else that mentioned extra balls. Any help appreciated.

Also, I replaced drop targets too, removing the bottom panel and loosening but not removing the top plate. A hook tool helps with the springs. It’s really too bad you can’t have the springs already attached when you slide them back in.

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#142 8 months ago

I had a set of husky picks that I used to help with springs.

I did all new sets of springs for pinball pool and I will for joker poker. Because I did springs, I found it easier to remove the bottom and back (back plate with switches attached) plates. Then I almost found using a pic to hard, I used mostly two fingers to pinch/pull the springs onto the tabs. With the help from everyone it made it easier on what to expect! Thank you.

Hard part now is flipper rebuild. Need to grind the chain tool to allow the flipper linkage to fit, and press the roll pin in/out.
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4 months later
#143 4 months ago

Having an issue. i have cross posted to the Sys1-Sys80 topic as well.

OK, hopefully someone can help.
Joker Poker, tilt not working.
Pendulum that is.
According to the schematics it should be (please correct me if i am wrong)
Tilt switch, which is part of the roll tilt switch, looks like it should be the bottom most connection
Pur-wht to A6J1-6 ----A6P1-6 Pur-wht -- IN270 diode Pur --A1J6-7

Mine is
Tilt switch Wht-Blu---A6J1-6---A6P1-6 Pur-Wht then it appears to goto the playfield tilt switch.
i have no wire at A1J6-7, it has been rewired, but i have no purple there, and it doesn't appear that the wire loom has been molested at any time. just the A1J6 connector and about 5 inches of wire.
There are only 4 diodes on the bottom panel, i would believe that there should be 5 per the manual and schematics.

Any and all help is appreciated. Can anyone with Joker Poker see if what i am seeing is what they have?

2 months later
#144 68 days ago

Joined the club last nite, 765 mile round trip, home well after midnight. Thru Washington, oregon, and clear to Boise and back. New cpr field and glass, very nice game!!

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2 weeks later
#145 50 days ago

Joined the club yesterday! It’s a nice example of Joker Poker. I guess I’m into System 1s since I also have a Close Encounters. Haha. Love the chimes and shots. Great pin! Looking forward to following the thread.

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