It looks like a nice game. Rancho was a low production game so you
don't see it very often. The Pinball Resource will probably have the manual
and schematic for it. They also have decals for the faded dummy 1's digit
and just about anything else you need.
I have been repairing EMs since 1993 and the best advice I have is to get
the book called Pinball Machine Maintenance by Henk de Jager. It covers
EM machines in depth made by Williams, Bally, and Gottlieb from 1960 to
1977. It explains how each part of the machine works such starting a new game,
advancing the ball in play and player after each ball, game over, and so much
more. At the end of each chapter it lists the most common problems of the circuit
discussed and how to repair it. Written for people who have little or no experience
with EM's, it is very clear and easy to understand. I bought a Williams EM in 1993
with no idea how it worked or how to fix it. I have since owned and repaired many
EM's over the years and I couldn't have done it without this book. It was the best
money I have ever spent for repairs.

Great looking game. I always loved the colors, artwork, and the Playfield layout of Rancho. Have fun with it.

Ken

Congrats!!!
Hope to be in the club soon..

welcome to the em club... nice looking game...

best advice to a new em owner is "play it a lot"... if it works now, it will continue to work as long as you play it often...

other than that, just keep it cleaned and waxed and put a new ball in it every now and then and you are good to go....

a must read (several times)...

http://www.pinrepair.com/em/index.htm

between that (commonly referred to as "clay's guide") and spending some of your idle time reading through the tech threads here (even if they don't apply to your machine), you'll be a pretty good em tech in no time at all...

that would be exceptionally low... it is not uncommon for most machines to be over 100k plays, some of them way over...

edit: get the schematics and spend some time learning to read them... it's not as hard as it looks...

One thing you will find with EM's is they are cheap and easy to maintain, they don't have big break downs very often and when they do it doesn't take a 300$ board to fix it. The quality of the wiring back then was outstanding.

Things I usually do when I get one is tumble the topside hardware, clean, wax, rerubber. Cleaning sleeves or replacement will give more action or juice in the flippers bumpers etc. If an insert is really sunken or raised, level it to prevent wear to the playfield around it. If you have a stubborn lamp that flickers or dims, a lil sand paper in the socket can fix it and if it doesn't just replace it.

Congrats on the Rancho! Looks like a fun one.

I'm excited to see it. It looks like a nice specimen.

very clean game, nice find
I had a buddy that had one with a metal cabinet. it a good 2 player game

I've got a metal cabinet Rancho. Williams don't seem to get a lot of love, but their EM's from the 70's are fantastic players. I've got Klondike, Super Star, Spanish Eyes, and Wild Card. Rancho is a great player, looks easier than it actually is. No ball return lanes like most games of that era. Congrats on the purchase.

I currently have a metal cabinet version of Rancho that I am working on getting running properly again. It is a still not 100% but it is playable and a fun game. I later picked up a wood cabinet version of Rancho for a friend in Houston. Not a game you see very often.

-- Shawn

Congrats K3V! You've got a great looking game and it looks like you're off to a great start!

As stated above and from my experience the most important thing with a working EM is to play it often. The worst thing you can do to an EM machine is not use it. Contacts on EM machines are set up to be self cleaning but that only works when machines are being played.

From my experience with EM's - once you have them up and running if you play the hell out of them they seem to work better.

There is nothing like the sound of an old EM in a gameroom and most of the time non pinball people will like earlier SS machines and Em's better than newer fancier machines.

Nice addition to your collection! Enjoy!

If you have the schematic, you'll need to check the switches associated with that saucer.

Obviously check the switch on the kickout hole first, then move on. There should be a relay and a score motor associated with this function.

That's extremely low. I'd expect a game of that age to be more in the 70,000 range.

It's certainly possible though, especially for a late-era EM like this. Many of these games were pretty much brand new when Digital Pin Mania was running roughshod over the industry. These games were quickly retired or moved to low-play locations as the new games came in and gobbled all the quarters. I've found most of these '77 EM games are in terrific shape.

As for your saucer problem - if the ball lands there and the game does nothing, it's probably just the switch. You need to adjust/clean the switch in the saucer so the game knows the ball is there. This is the most basic issue you'll have - remember these games don't use microswitches, they use leaf switches. So you won't hear a "click" to know it's working. You need to eyeball the switch from underneath the playfield and activate it manually (with a ball is the best way). Do this with the game off. Just eyeball and it adjust it so it's closing. And file it a few swipes with your flex file.

If the ball lands in the saucer, and you hear the score motor move but the ball doesn't kick out, it's probably a switch in the score motor or in a relay (something like saucer relay). But from what you are saying (shaking the machine) it's most likely just the obvious switch in the saucer.

You should hopefully already have a switch adjust tool, a soft flex file, and a hard metal file. If you don't, buy them yesterday - and get 5 of the flex files they age quickly and are cheap. Also if you are buying the manual make sure to get the schematics too. These are two separate documents.

Mechanically, you have to remember EM games aren't much different than modern games. The playfield stuff that is. It's the "logic" stuff that's all different - those relay boards in the cabinet and the head instead of computer boards. So think in the same terms - if something isn't working, first suspect the playfield switch, and look over stuff mechanically. Many of your SS pin skills will still be relevant here.

Another EM tip since you asked...keep in mind that these mechanical games aren't as "smart" as a modern digital game. If something is stuck on, it's gonna cook. If you ever notice something stuck "activated" - a pop bumper, a sling, a score reel, anything else - turn the game off and start to diagnose the problem. If you let things stick on for long they'll cook, which will mean a mess you have to clean up and numerous parts you'll have to replace.

I think the problem is that the quality control ain't so hot on the Williams games. There are lots of bad ones, and lots of games with bad art that all seem the same. And there are truly awful games like Jubilee or Jive Time.

The other problem with the Williams games is the flippers and drop target mechs aren't great, and the chime units don't sound good and develop a death rattle. Compared to a Gottlieb game the Williams stuff just doesn't seem as classy or well put together, but in comparison seem very industrial and clumsy (especially the flippers).

Of course there are some very good Williams games from the 70s, including my favorite Argosy, also Funfest/Swinger, Triple Action. Lots of good ones but it's not like the Gottlieb games where they are almost all great. Hit or miss.

I rescued a rancho pin from the scrap pile. The jet bumper switch had stuck an caught fire. Burned up a portion of the wiring on the play field and the relay board. Who ever had it must of had it stored in a barn an they did canablelize it a little bit. 2 weekends later it is up and running the only part i need yet is the spoon switch assembly for the jet bumper. Marco says they should have it soon. I do need a new back glass because the art was starting to peel off. i did the triple thick glaze to stop it but would like to get a better one. If any one knows where i can get one please let me know.

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I liked my Jubilee and with 11k produced between Darling and Jubillee I suspect others did as well.
But each to thier own i guess.

--Jeff

Hello KV3
The counter shows 63070 . Even after what all its been thru it plays great an the play field
Looks great for its age. This was my 2nd em the first one was Gottlieb Volly all that needed was cleaned an adjusted.
Next I have sitting Gottlieb Mini Cycle. Play field an back glass looks great but sombody trashed
The cabnit art work. I' m going to get it playable then decide what I want to do from there.

I was pm'ing Kevin (the OP) about my pick up and he said to post in his thread I also posted in the massive EM thread.

I bought a Rancho last night and It's also my first EM as well. I've been wanting to add an EM to my collection for a while now, so I'm pretty happy and excited to get it working.

It's seems to be in pretty decent condition, but does need some work... It turns on and lights up, but doesn't start a game though. I'm going to have to read up and learn em's to find out where to start at first glance it appears to be missing a fuse though. Any input would be fantastic!

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If putting in a new fuse did not work check the credit unit. Clean an check
The contacts . The wheel might show credits available but if the right contacts are
Not closed its not going to start. If you don't find it let me know when I get home
I will pull my schematic an check other possibilities.

Great just read in another thread you got it working.

Thanks for the advice, yes I did get it going by manually advancing the credit reel. The problem is someone has messed up the coin mech switches, see pic. I'll fix them but I'm going to put it on free play anyway.
So far it appears everything is working except for one pop number light that's not flashing, but I haven't logged much time on it yet. I will clean it up and test it more to be sure...

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I can't tell from the picture, and I'm working from memory here, but I'm pretty sure that the near switch in the picture should have that top switch closed with the long blade. Just make sure both of them are adjusted like that and see if that helps. Those switches are easily messed up. Very fragile.

Here's the coin mech switches on my Liberty Bell which will be the same. She still has the plastic covers which are usually long gone. Also, I disconnect one of the leads on the lock out coil as it's not needed anymore and just adds more noise. Keep the inner switch of the make or break closed and the rear open and put the player unit on free play as described in Clay's guide. Normally the coin drops and toggles the switch to its rear contact to add credits. Not needed anymore in free play.

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Yes the one is held closed an opens on coin drop the other closes on coin drop.
My Rancho coin sw was also butchered like that I have to check I think you need that
Closed even for the other coin sw to work. I blanked mine off an only use 1 shute

Is it tilting?

I found with old even early ss games connections can be a problem
I'm working on a ss Williams fire power for a friend an that was his
Biggest problem connections.

League night? How did you get that started I have been thinking it would be nice
To have even a club to get together even once a month at a different house.
Been trying to find other lineages here in Hanover PA but not much luck

You have an alternating relay somewhere under the playfield. The coil is not firing or relay requires some adjustment.

Alternatively, (never worked on a rancho) the match unit maybe involved. Check to ensure this is stepping.

On your schematic, look for the alternating relay. Check to see the switches that cause the coil to change state. Normally, an alternating relay will hold until a switch hit, the release, then hold. Not an interlock relay, typically.

Another note: on this era of Williams, they packed many of the gameplay relays under the playfield on a standoff board either on one side or the back of the playfield. It is easy with this design to accidentally catch a wire lifting/lowering the playfield. Inspect for broken wires if your game has this design.

Just looked up the schematic for liberty Bell which was the same year. Williams called their alternator the change relay. On liberty Bell, there is also a switch on the match unit that will change the state of the change relay. Again, first check for broken wires, then check the match unit switches. Some match units are tiny, some are a standard stepper size. Williams typically (only?) used the larger size.

Check it out! Hopefully that helps.

It's the small type match unit. Make sure the little plastic ratchet doodad isn't broken.

I've got a Rancho Machine thats been in my family for 38 years. Still plays great, but has recently decided to skip all the way to the 5th turn after the first round is finished. I'm a complete novice but I have the schematics for this machine. Any pointers?

The snake has a little mustache.

Apparently, the metal cased examples were in response to worries that coming SS machines would be so lightweight that people could carry them away.

Williams E/Ms are heavy enough, I imagine a metal Rancho weighs a ton.

Hoping to join Team Rancho soon!