(Topic ID: 161563)

Johnson's Paste Wax, not that great for these machines as people think

By Otaku

7 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 9 posts
  • 5 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 7 years ago by Darcy
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    #1 7 years ago

    I was a pretty early adopter of this stuff (at least it seemed like it, now it seems like it's starting to really catch on more than before at least) and now realized that although it makes the ball zip around like wax should, it leaves AWFUL residue on the ball and eventually clouds up the playfield with dirt pretty early on.

    I don't think I have any pictures (I'll take some when I get back to the machine in a few days), but I had a game at Pinfest with a brand new ball and later that day I was servicing the game with Vic & jrpinball and one of them pointed out how I REALLY should get a new ball before mine destroys the playfield. I was shocked (since I just bought it) and looked at it, and it looked awful and pitted. However, it was just this strange coating of dried up wax and indents from hits into the wax even though the wax was already dried (of course, it was put on days ago) and the excess was wiped off after being applied. I scrapped off this weird thick coating with my fingernail and the shiny ball was still fine underneath but it was impossible to wipe off with a rag and would have had to be scratched off very carefully with a fingernail all the way.

    I bought a brand new ball at that point and a few hours later it looked the exact same and I just let it go for the rest of the show, but the playfield also looked horribly dirty after it was over).

    I think I'm just going to go with Mill Wax at this point. There's so much silly controversy over it here (and Novus) but some friends I have with museum quality EM machines use Mill Wax and it does just fine. (CORRECTION: Actually, mid-posting I read up on it a little and maybe I'll just go with Novus, we'll see, still no plans to clearcoat ever anyways)

    I feel like I may have let it sit a little too long and it hardened and it was too difficult to wipe all of it off (where Vid's guide or somewhere else I read says with a good wax it's not really possible to have it sit for "too long", so don't worry, just don't leave it for too short of a time) but even on a machine I did much quicker I believe I noticed similar results on the ball.

    Just figured I'd let you all know. I'll grab some pictures when I get back to NJ in a few days.

    -------------------

    This wax debate is so frustrating. A few months ago I was paid by a friend running a pinball establishment to go through his only EM that he just picked up for the place and heeded all warnings and used Naphtha and this wax and it looked okay (still really not that shiny though), and warned him that other cleaners may work better but they could be a danger. Next time I pop in he just said he had one of his other workers go through it with Novus anyways and another wax and it looked 10x better then, and did just fine too. These warnings are starting to not even be fact anymore. Also I talked to some experienced guys at Pinfest and they said alcohol and magic eraser squares for cleaning as long as you're gentle. After reading Pinside electing magic eraser as the next worse-than-satan product for ages, you should have seen my expression! Tried it on a rough playfield and it worked well until I tried to scrub out a yellowed part which it then ate through. My fault, though. So there is worry, but maybe sometimes we worry a little too much?

    #2 7 years ago

    You shouldn't get any excess wax if you buff it out thoroughly after it dries. Use an open pore type of cloth like cheescloth, or use surgical gauze to buff out the wax. There are lots of Johnson's proponents out there, but I like Mother's Carnauba Wax without the cleaners.

    #3 7 years ago
    Quoted from Otaku:

    I think I'm just going to go with Mill Wax at this point.

    I find Mill Wax to be a great cleaner and shiner that will remove the residue left after an initial cleaning and polishing. Then follow it up with Blitz wax and it's good to go.

    #4 7 years ago
    Quoted from jrpinball:

    You shouldn't get any excess wax if you buff it out thoroughly after it dries. Use an open pore type of cloth like cheescloth, or use surgical gauze to buff out the wax. There are lots of Johnson's proponents out there, but I like Mother's Carnauba Wax without the cleaners.

    Mother's Carnauba seems like the Pinside wax of choice right now so I'll probably order some of that. I only picked up Johnson's because I was in a rush a few months ago and needed something I could get in a store, and no stores around here carried Mother's Carnauba without the harsh cleaner in it.

    Going to just do it right this time and order some of that online.

    What do you use for general cleaning beforehand, JR? Naphtha seems like a popular & harmless choice but I'm really just not seeing results no matter how hard I scrub, I'm thinking that's more for playfields that have already been serviced rather than ones that need it after not being touched for decades, even though nobody really seems to specify. It looks good until it dries, and removes surface dirt, like using just water on a dirty piece of anything for instance, but ends up drying and looking bad again of course. Doesn't get the job done for me personally. Surveying my options.

    #5 7 years ago
    Quoted from o-din:

    I find Mill Wax to be a great cleaner and shiner that will remove the residue left after an initial cleaning and polishing. Then follow it up with Blitz wax and it's good to go.

    Thanks for the input! Pinside had a fit over it because it's silicone and not real wax apparently:

    https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/mill-wax

    There's so many differing opinions out there, lol. This is such a crazy subject of this hobby.

    #6 7 years ago

    Collinite 476S for me. Not had any issues yet. Been using it for years.
    http://www.collinite.com/automotive-wax/super-doublecoat-paste-wax/

    #7 7 years ago
    Quoted from Otaku:

    Pinside had a fit over it because it's silicone and not real wax apparently:

    Pinside throws lots of fits.

    Like I said it is an excellent cleaner and really makes it shine! But I do wax over it with Blitz which is the best I can find.

    #8 7 years ago

    Each situation has it's own solution IMHO. You have to gauge what type of schmutz is on the playfield and then decide how to attack it based on that. A lot of games have layers of really dirty wax which hides a very nice playfield underneath. In many cases, just a good cleaning with Naphtha (you can use Coleman Stove Fuel, or Ronsonol Lighter Fluid), will remove the cruddy layers of wax, and then you just need to apply new wax. If the playfield looks dry and has lots of ball swirls, that type of dirt is ground into the playfield itself. Usually this type of situation requires either Super Clean or 91% isopropyl alcohol and Magic Eraser. Always proceed cautiously with ME, because it is abrasive. You are "sanding" the very thin layer of playfield ink to remove the ground in dirt, so you need to proceed slowly. If the playfield has loose ink or a lot of cracking, avoid letting any water based cleaner sit for any length of time, or try to avoid using them at all. Use alcohol or a petroleum based cleaner, and do small sections at a time.

    #9 7 years ago

    Otaku, read through your post a few times, and here are a few possibilities of what has happened. BTW pictures when you have a chance would help.

    There could be a problem with your wax, It may have frozen at one time or other, in transit or sitting in a garage etc.
    Second problem is that chemicals in different polishes/chemicals can re-act with each other.

    Say a wax re-acting to the solvent you may have used to clean the film off of a new ball. When you state it had to be scratched off seems like two products bonding.

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