(Topic ID: 41272)

Johnny Mnemonic Owner's Club

By Phetishboy

7 years ago

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  • 3,519 posts
  • 335 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 days ago by DakotaMike
  • Topic is favorited by 129 Pinsiders


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#3202 1 year ago

I am hopefully going to join this club tomorrow! Have a lot questions. The one I’m picking up has pretty faded reds on the cabinet and backbox but overall the game looks pretty good. Can’t tell for sure from pictures I was sent, but a few of the inserts looked worn and can’t tell if it’s the decal itself or the actual playfield that was worn. Are there replacement insert decals available anywhere? Where in the heck is the spinner located? How do I check that the hand and the matrix work good? How do the balls lock in this game? I think I have played this game only a few times so I’m not familiar with the rules at all. That’s the fun in getting a new machine tho. Why do most of these machines have such bad fade in the red? Doesn’t necessarily mean it was exposed to full sunlight all the time does it? The other colors look decent. What else should I be looking for? Thanks for any tips.

#3204 1 year ago

Since this game has the power down mode, will LEDS in the GI flicker or look like shit during this mode? Is LED OCD required.

#3206 1 year ago

I got it! I’m in the club! Picked a different one up that had nice reds on the cabinet decals. All original too. Playfield is really nice. All the lamps in the inserts are still incandescents but the G.I. has color which I will change. Looking forward to tinkering and playing this game. I’ll post some pics later. Now I have to read this while thread.

#3210 1 year ago

Does anybody know the correct lamp socket for the GI lamps in JM? The socket part number and even location of the GI lamps are not in the manual and I have a few that are all rusted out and would like to replace.

#3211 1 year ago

Jeez where are all you JM owners?

#3212 1 year ago

Owners manual does not have a rubber list, spacer or post lists either. Where can I find these/part numbers? Thanks.

#3216 1 year ago

I notice a lot of silver looking dust on the playfield below the hand mech. Is it normal for that magnet to create dust like that since the ball is being plunged to the magnet and it catches it? Maybe it’s not lined up correctly and that action is causing the dust?

#3219 1 year ago

Thanks guys! Question about the teal looking inserts on the right loop bonuses and the upper lanes into the pops. What color LED have you guys used there? Comet doesn’t have teal but do have cyan, will that color be good?

#3221 1 year ago

Credit dot. Check ball in hand switch. How do you test or reset that?

#3225 1 year ago

Anybody know what lamps are in the cyber matrix grid(X9), are they 555’s or 44’s?

#3232 1 year ago

Hand mech was acting up so time to rebuild and clean that whole assembly. Removed the whole back with the electromagnet, rods, and motors completely from the playfield last night. Actually pretty easy to remove but know I need to get into each x and y axis as well as the gears. The x nut is so rounded I don’t even know how it made contact with that threaded rod. It definitely made the hand droop down. I was just going to get some white lithium grease made by Lucas Oil from home depot instead of the rock n roll super web grease for the gears, will that be sufficient? Also, I thought I read in this thread that the ball in hand switch can be modded somehow. What’s the story on that? I ordered a new ball in hand switch assembly, pricey, so I’ll just replace it but wanting to get more details on that if anybody knows. I’ll report back and let you know how the rebuild goes but so far so good.

#3236 1 year ago

I was just gonna use some of this. Ok?FEF603DC-6B2E-42A8-B7E4-D949AAE195E2 (resized).jpeg

#3238 1 year ago

Yes I saw that but I need something now as I am rebuilding those gears and don’t want to wait for the shipping. I think it will be fine, it will be used HUO.

#3239 1 year ago

Success!!! I rebuilt the hand mech and it works perfect now. Time consuming to go through everything in that assembly. This game has a lot going for it and it’s a real sleeper that’s rare and I think it will only go up in value. Next up, replace rubbers, LED’s in the inserts and change the color bombed GI in mine. Peace.

#3241 1 year ago

Just use the guide that’s in this thread. Sorry don’t know the post # but it’s in here several times. Great explanation.

#3259 1 year ago

Going to rebuild the flippers soon and just wondering how you determine the correct flipper bat position? I don’t see any alignment holes.

#3261 1 year ago

I’ve read that the bats should line up with the lane guide screws but still seems kinda like guess work.

Added 14 months ago:

Looked at a lot of different flipper pictures and not many have the tips of each left and right flipper directly in line with the lane screws.

1 week later
#3264 1 year ago

I put 2 SMD sunlight’s in mine too and it looks great, dont really care for colored GI on this game. Color DMD may be next as the animations look too good not to have one. There goes another $400+

#3265 1 year ago

Anybody have an extra left hand assembly with the magnet by chance?

#3267 1 year ago

So I made it to power down for the first time and I thought I read that when your in that mode and as the sections start powering down it is suppose to also power down parts of the GI. It all happened so fast but what I think I saw when sections were powering down were just all the inserts in that section turned off and didn’t notice any of the GI go off. I do have LED’s in the GI and I also have the dimming feature turned off so I wonder if that’s why my GI didn’t dim or go off. So is the GI suppose to turn off or dim?

1 week later
#3268 1 year ago

Jeez where are all the JM owners? Anybody know what to check with this message? Game freezes up and don’t know where to start. Must have a ground short but where or what is row 1? Thanks.

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#3272 1 year ago

What’s the part number for the U20 chip please? Who did you order it from? My socket looks fine so I’ll just replace the chip. Any suggestions in getting the old chip out of the socket? Thanks.

#3275 1 year ago

Gotcha thanks guys. I’ll defintely check the switch matrix first and report back. Another thing that has me wondering tho, the game was froze with the message as shown in my post and I went around checking other connectors. When I pushed in connector J107 on the power driver board the game un-froze and was then able use the menu buttons and get back into regular game play. Seems like something may be going on there?

1 week later
#3284 1 year ago
Quoted from DS_Nadine:

I want to tell a Little Story. About "Pro"ing down your game... and Johnny Mnemonic of course.
How often do we have discussions where we discuss the necessity of the Stern Premium Features over the Pro, that these features don't add to the game or whatnot. Sometimes these things are most likely correct, sometimes it depends what you are looking for in a game but most times I'd argue that everyone *defends* their purchase, wich is still dictated by their wallet.
If a Stern Pro would cost exactly as much as a Premium, who would still buy the Pro?
Who knows, we can't test that, can we?
When I got my Johnny Mnemonic, wich was supposed to be FULLY WORKING, the Hand did it's Job exactly one time, dieing nearly completely.
The switch was broken, the magnet couldn't hold up power and the metal assembly where the magnet is placed in was also broken.
The switch wasn't available anywhere at that time, the magnet only in one shop for 3 times the usual price and the metal bracket still nowhere to be found.
Luckily the game has an Option to switch the glove off, while not really change the gameplay with that.
So basically you're getting the Pro Version of the game.
I mean, the Hand is mostly for effect, altough there is a lot of strategy involved in the ball placement for invested players.
But physically despite the "magic" you only loose the physical ball lock and get a software one.
Oh I can imagine the chatter in my head if this would be a Stern Pro/ Premium thing.
So I played JM "Pro" for a while. And yes it still was a good game, would have been a great game even if the (now always up) drop target wouldn't send so many balls straight down the middle. (3 second ball save after hitting that target would be a solution for that.)
So eventually I repaired the whole thing. Got a new magnet, repaired the switch with an easy hack, 'kind of' repaired the bracket, got new X and Y nuts and steel rod... all the stuff.
So, most noticable difference:
The game suddenly got easier (and a bit deeper).
But more importantly the game got it's own distinct toy and flavor with that. It got completely unique and the mechanism doesn't cease to amaze me.
So, fast Forward to 2019, with most (not every) Stern:
Does the price increase justify the additional extras in the game?
"If you could not afford a Premium the Pro is still a good game."
It is, but you miss out it's uniquene magic.
(Remember, I written "most", not "every".)
I think that is why we see Munsters Pro Kind of crashing down now in peoples long-term opinions.
Not only because of code. Munsters Pro is a great shooting game, but it has nothing we haven't seen before or really stands out.
The full fledged mini playfield is unique. It makes the game deeper and easier (since you can't loose the ball while playing on it), so for me... just like my JM in some weird way.
And no, I myself have no clue why I wanted to write this.
Just lovin' the game. Tiny 2 - 3 pin collection with a lot of fluctuation, but this one is now in it's 3rd year.
And of course I always ask myself: Pro or Premium?
Not so sure about that anymore but never underestimate the "unique" power of a "not worth it?" mech.

Wouldn’t be the same game without the hand mech that’s for sure. The “pro” version sure seems valid these days. Lol.

2 months later
#3303 10 months ago

Show us some pics or a video during power down please, that would be sweet!

2 weeks later
#3320 10 months ago

Time to rebuild that whole mechanism unfortunately. It has been documented several times in this thread.

1 month later
#3360 8 months ago

Does anybody else notice the lit lane change is slow when moving it with either flipper? Increasing the multiplier for me is kinda hard because the lane change seems slow or seems to stick. Normal operation or do I have a problem?

5 months later
#3480 3 months ago

I think you have to complete power down to reset the throwing spikes but I’m not positive.

2 months later
#3514 8 days ago

It’s not that hard, just take lots of pictures as you take it apart, clean and lube the x and y rods and nuts, remove and solder as you need to to get access or remove things and put back together keeping good wire management.

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