I'm back in the club with one as of today!!!!

Anyone know where we can get some refreshed decals for the cabinet? Yeesh, I am looking at lemonade yellow here.

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Don't forget - fellow pinsider Aurium has done some awesome custom cards for us!

http://www.pinballcards.com/Pinball-Cards/Johnny-Mnemonic-V1

http://www.pinballcards.com/Pinball-Cards/Johnny-Mnemonic-V2

All right, it is time to start lighting this club up a bit. I have spent - yeesh - $300 in parts overnight for this game I think. Bought the PF side decals lastnight here:

ebay.com link: Johnny Mnemonic Pinball Decal Inside Cabinet Art Mod

Bought the new and improved matrix left lane diverter from mezelmods even though mine has one. They did an outstanding job.

Also, I DO know where you can get cabinet art full decals, and I have a full set on the way.

Got to start getting the LEDs picked out for the game and some new rubber posts here and there.

So glad to have one again. Does anyone make the dolphin mod anymore?

First night of having the game home. Just a quick talking video - no gameplay or anything.

I am curious for those skilled with the hand assembly - anyone know what the noise at 2:03 is? It happens 3 times in succession.

Ordered CT LEDs, Comet flashers and flex-LEDs to make some quick illuminated button assemblies.

We're going to do great things with this game. I can't wait to get started!! Picking up the new speakers at Parts Exchange tomorrow - 3.5" and 5" cabinet speakers and about a 6" cabinet mid-range speaker. Already got the Polk external sub hooked up to it, and holy crap, was that worth it.

Tonight I fixed my backglass lighting. One strand was completely out.

Traced it to the J-120 connector, and it was pin #8 responsible for 6.3V.

Did a continuity check from one end of the wire to the other - check tested out.

Checked for voltage at pin #8, had it.

Hooked everything up, checked the end of the hot lead wire responsible for the out lights - wasn't getting voltage.

That makes no sense, how am I getting continuity but NOT voltage....?

To make things work as this is an LED conversion, I created a jumper from one of the other hot leads in the backglass as pictured.

Anyone have any ideas as to how I have continuity but NOT voltage/current?

And yes, my translite is beat to heck.... Anyone have a lead to where I can get a new one?

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Thank you . Wait'll you see everything I've ordered for this JM. I think my order count is up to 8 different packages coming in - from cabinet decals, to all cliffys (YES, Cliff has made Cliffys for this game from Crazy Bob's to metal liners for the curves on the left ramp and under goodies), to new inlane plastics, to all new LEDs and flashers, to omg I don't even know anymore. Already ordered an extra X and Y nut just to be safe, and ordered some of the grease Blonde suggested in earlier threads. When the day comes that the glove has to be rebuilt, I want to be ready.

**- Correction to my above statements** - I DO NOT have voltage at pin #8 of J-120. I verified that I do not have voltage by using a test light to be 100% sure. I think the voltage source for J-120 is J-115, pin #4 per page 3-30 of the manual.

Would this be because of a bad trace on the other side of the power driver board?

^^^^ Update to the above. I was schooled by WeirPinball - bad F109 fuse. Got power at Pin #8 of J-120 again! Jumper wire removed.

Got the inserts LED'd today - all of the 555 bulbs that is. Fixed the flasher behind Crazy Bob's. Installed Aurium's custom apron cards. Need to make sure I donate to his site later this week.

Got a lot, lot, lot more planned. Stay tuned; I should have this game fully LED'd by this weekend. I'll get better pictures up later. Sorry, the translite was out, and the LEDs totally ruined this picture.

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Yep, I sure do plan on it! It'll be the first game I've gone with the OCD board. I didn't have it in 2012, and yeah, the effects were pretty rough (read: not there).

Everything with time !

Troubleshot my first glove issue with my JM. See this thread for progress and the "so far" fix.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/johnny-mnemonic-glove-problems

On a lighter note, a small order from Marco came in !!!

Got some more coming this week from Comet, CoinTaker, Cliffy, Pinball Life, and somewhere overseas where the full cabinet decals can be bought...

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So, a couple packages came in today . Oh happy days .

Played a game tonight, glove behaved 100% so far!

Pinball Life, Mezelmods, JM Manual from eBay, RnR Super-Web Grase for the glove, and Comet LEDs came in! Cointaker, Cliffys, and the cabinet decals are still on their way!

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These are the pictures of the cliffy's on Cliff's test machine - NOT mine. They should be in soon, and yes, Cliff does have these available!

Hope Cliff didn't mind me sharing them . Special thanks to Fattrain for sending his machine to Cliff for development of these cliffys!!

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So I have the game nearly fully LED'd now. I know, I know, the dolphin area is a bit too white; I am experimenting in that area to tone it down. I purposefully avoided using too much blue. This game has so much blue in the PF; I wanted to make sure the other colors had a change to shine.

Color changing light in the spotlight shining on the gloves. I have some other ideas ..... soon.

Got all the flashers changed over to LEDs as well. Man, Comet pinball flashers really pop.

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I wanted that shipping container, but I didn't see it anywhere on their website .

So far, not the main ramp decals, just the "spreading ramp" directly after the matrix.

So, looking through the manual, I do not see any information about what rubber rings to order in terms of sizes or hwo many.

Am I just overlooking something, or is this information genuinely not in the manual??

I know Marco sells a kit, and I'll do that if I have to, but I prefer to be proactive before buying a kit.

Any help is appreciated, thanks!

I started working on making the flipper buttons illuminated tonight. I followed vid's guide here:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-lighted-flipper-buttons-for-418

Overall, it was a very tedious job - took a lot more lil tools and tidbits than I thought it would. First half took me two hours to do as I was constantly re-measuring, double-checking things, thinking of better ways, going through things to make sure everything was insulated .... it is such a simple lil' upgrade but to do everything right and keep your JM safe, man.....

I took a couple pictures of the process and the final product on the left side. Doing the right side now, enjoy!

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Got the other side done a lil while ago. This side was MUCH easier after doing the first side. Guess speed comes with experience .

If anyone has any questions, please feel free to ask. I don't mind helping anyone with this mod!

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Here's how it looks once it's hooked up. Obviously, the wiring job needs to be cleaned up.

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Closeup shot of the setup

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All 4 of the power leads go to a male spade connector, which draws its power source through the blue T-Tap. Same for the return feed wires (solid black w/o red stripe).

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How it looks before the playfield comes down.

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Angled view of the mod.

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Straight eye view of the illumination pattern.

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Most of the tools I used to do the job. Like I said earlier, simple but very tedious. Definitely worth it though!!

Just curious, in your picture the hex nut looks like mine with the "hollow side" facing out. Is this just an old picture? I was wondering if I could flip them around like you suggested - thank you for the tip!

Wish I had known about the 2 LED-flex bulbs; I just made an order last week .

Welp, tonight I made some more progress. Fixed the broken #555 holder in the pop bumper. Man, to change one of those out, you pretty much have to disassemble the entire pop bumper assembly. First time I have ever done it. It wasn't too hard at all, just had to take your time and go slow. Took a lot of pictures, and figured I'd share them here with everyone!

So first, I started out with taking some reference pictures of the underside of the PF:

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So this is what we will be installing tonight:

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I began by snipping and removing the old leads from the broken bulb holder. I also desoldered the wires from the old leads.

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Once the leads were out of the way, I removed 5 nylon hexnuts. 3 of them anchor the assembly to the underside of the PF; the other two separate the assembly from the metal ring of the top PF portion of the pop bumper. I also moved the leaf switch that the pop bumper skirt pushes down to activate the pop bumper. That switch is clearly visible in the picture indicated by the "nylon cup" on the end of the leaf blade.

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Once all the anchoring nylon hexnuts are out of the way, you can bring the pop bumper assembly up and out of the top of the PF. I so happened to have extra pop bumper skirts, so I placed a new one on this one while I was in there. Why not, right?

The assembly itself just pops apart. Minimal pressure is needed to pop it apart and pop it back into place once the skirt is replaced.

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Figured while I was in here, this area definitely should be cleaned and waxed. If there was EVER a time, now is it.

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The assembly starts to go back in.

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Getting a full sized staple gun in here to re-anchor the light leads down is NOT an easy task.

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Not my best work, but hey, it will suit the job! I added heat shrink insulation in key areas just to be safe. Soldering flux came in handy when re-soldering the wires to the light leads. Now fully assembled.

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The tools I used to do this job.

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Top side of the machine with new LED in.
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New pop bumper cap in place.

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Little by little, it is all coming into play .

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Me too !!!!! I also ordered white transparent buttons this time. I think using colored transparent buttons is killing the effect. We'll see soon!

Thanks mwong!

I did not devise a shield, and I would love to learn how you blocked that light bleeding. That is probably the only thing about this mod I don't like so I am all ears as to what you did. The lit buttons on your TAF look great!!

Dog flipping gone it, you're right. And I just made my order with Art lastnight . It'll have to wait until the next order.

Will try to remember to do this tomorrow!

So look what came in tonight !!!

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Here's my game - one last time cliffyless.

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So here are pictures of the cliffys going in. I need to get to bed for work tomorrow, so I do not have time to write a step by step for each picture. If you guys have any questions, let me know! The cost for all Cliffys specifically for JM (not including universal slot inlane protectors) was $55. It comes as:

JM-SET - Johnny Mnemonic Crazy Bobs kickout, left U turn ramp, upper Y divert ramp, shooter eject protector set

Here we go, enjoy the pictures!

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I want to give special thanks to our Pinsider moderator, Fattrain, for letting Cliff have his personal JM so Cliff could make these for the community. Thank you very much for your selflessness, Fattrain; we fellow owners truly appreciate it. And thank you, Cliff, for your endless servitude to making our machines a lil safer from the natural wear and tear of the silver ball!

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Those wires go to the spotlight that is mounted on the back of the left ramp and shines on the gloves. You need one of these right here pretty much:

http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-20659

Guess who got more goodies tonight ?

LEDs for the light up flipper buttons, parts, and a UV strip for something I want to try....oh this weekend has the potential to be fun .

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Got some more work done this weekend so far. Updated my flipper buttons to clear NON-COLORED buttons and utilized dual SMD LED flex bulbs for the red (blues were strong enough). When I say dual, I still only used 1 bulb; each buld had two SMD flex LEDs. These were WAY better. Pictures below.

I also installed purple superbands; they look great! I started changing the rubber posts out with red and blues and quickly realized it was going to become a bigger task than anticipated, so I backed off for now. I'll do that later. Changed out the coil sleeve on the shooter lane solenoid, and gave the center of the PF a good cleaning and 1 coat of wax.

Finally, I applied the Super Web grease of both the X and Y axis rods of the glove assembly. I put a SMALL dose of the grease on a paper towel and ran it back and forth, cleaning up ANY excess I could. Once I did that, I let the hand cycle a couple times fully to the left, right, front, and back. Then I turned off the game and wiped off the excess that the X and Y nuts had clumped up to the ends of each rod (basically the rods did the work for me).

It's coming along!

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Well, tonight I attempt to install these bad boys:

ebay.com link: itm

Not going to be easy with the PF installed. I wish I had something like a "playfield rotisserie" to put the PF on while doing this, but hey, where would the challenge in that be ?

Well, my wife and I installed the decals tonight. I do not have the physical room to remove the PF, and I was not comfortable with trying to make it work without proper space. It was actually not TOO bad working around it. Basically, we utilized some trigger clamps and put the front of the decals in palce. We would remove the clamp at the very edge closest to the coin door and begin to apply the decal, leaving enough loose decal to continnue peeling the protective back off more and more as we went. The tricky area was obviously where the cabinet and the PF meet and hinge next to each other. There, we peeled a lot more of the protective backing off and slowly worked around the PF until we made it to the back box. From there, we utilized an X-acto knife and made the appropriate cuts around the inside of the cabinet to make the decals fit as they should. Did not take too long at all, maybe 25 minutes or so total.

Thank you to WeirPinball for the advice on how to do this with the PF in place. We knocked it out of the park!

These decals are on eBay in the link from a previous post only one or two above this one, and they are VERY nice. Laminated vinyl, and it is not a "one shot deal" if you apply them and then need to move them around a bit. You have some forgiveness time to re-apply as you install with these.

Before and after pictures provided below.

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Pretty much the same place that supermoot already mentioned:

http://www.pinballspareparts.com.au/parts-by-machine/williams-parts/johnny-mnemonic/03-9415-1.html

I absolutely love your blog entries. These are VErY well written with great pictures, thoughtful insight, thorough detail, and some great humor - especially with the JM glove article: "This was my penance, and it was harsh but fair" xD ....

^^^ Dude, share some pictures!!!

Even if they all look the same, they're each unique in their own way .

Fellow pinsider, Aurium, makes them

Well there goes another $400

Would you be willing g to pm that info? I would love to read about it!!!!

Won't be much longer now.....

http://shop.colordmd.com/colordmd-replacement-display-for-johnny-mnemonic-pinball-machine/

Added a strip of UV LEDs above the cybermatrix. Made a splitter to use the 12V feed coming from the game's wiring harness to the right ramp flasher to make them work. I am happy with how it turned out!

Video here:

Please note: in this video I was wearing a GoPro on a chest harness, so you COULD see the LED strip. When playing the game, the LED strip is hidden from the player's perspective.

Can someone provide me a picture of the middle ramp cliffy? The ball diverter is one thing, but now I am hearing about a cliffy for the middle ramp...?

Yes, please! You do PayPal? PM me an address and I'll pay up!

HELL yes I have. There is a thread with pictures somewhere on Pinside. I took a 2 min video and added 10+ pictures. Absolutely worth it.

Paypal for Jones sent. Can't wait to install him !

For a nice JM, I'd say the price is starting to keep around $2000-$2100.

That's a machine with a functional glove and a faded cabinet - to me - that's what should you should be ready to spend.

You get one with a perfect PF, no crack plastics, 100% fully working with a clean cabinet under the PF = going up to about $2300.

You get one with perfect unfaded cabinet decals = $2500+

Get one with all of that and a ColorDMD = approaching $3000+

Of course, this is all subjective.

What condition would you consider yours then ?

^^^^ Uh oh, we might see a $4000 JM

Powerdown achieved today!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Woohoo!! Looked so amazing on the ColorDMD. I won't ruin it for everyone wanting to experience ColorDMD for themselves. I'll just say it looked awesome!!

Just checking:

You do know that as the glove with the ball in hand passes over each matrix slot, it DOES show on the DMD what slot the ball is hovering over in the glove?

I'm liking it!!! If you push forward with this, let us know!

Thanks man! It was great to meet you too! Definitely a cool vibe between us; you could tell we both are in this hobby to make things better, learn how things work, trade war stories, and just "play some pin and 'relax'" - given our definition of "relax" is to scream, yell, swear a lil', and do all sorts of freakouts when things go good or bad - I wouldn't have it any other way!

Thanks again for the gift, btw! The place to get 8-32 hex spacers in Dayton is here:

http://www.midwestsurplus.net/

And if you ever want to lose yourself in one of the ULTIMATE DIY stores in downtown Dayton:

http://meci.com/

Like seriously....Mendelson's has ANYTHING you could ever think of....as evidenced in this video:

Read the reviews here...don't take my word for it: http://www.yelp.com/biz/mendelsons-liquidation-outlet-dayton

No joke, the prices are written on the boxes they sit in. If they sit on shelves, there is a an inventory list with static prices on components.

Most of the time, I snag everything I want (we're talking pcb components, male and female spade connectors, resistors, diodes, capacitors, crimp connections, etc) and take it to the desk. Say it's about 50 pieces of random previously ID'd components in (), they'll give it all to me for $3-$5.

Love me some Mendelson's. They nuke EVERYONE by far in terms of prices. Only catch, YOU have to know what you're looking for when you go there. No clerk is going to hold your hand and show you where things are - that's your job as the customer. Understandable though, they have probably over 50000 sq feet of merchandise on each floor. It's simply staggering.

I'll go in for one with the CD pictures!

I'll take "Install something other than the 20 year old speakers for $500" please, Alex.

What is the reasoning with the spinner decals being "incomplete"? Why does one say "320 Gb" and the other say "Gb" ????

Here's a video I uploaded a while back:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/colordmd-announces-game-20-yes-game-20/page/2#post-2357965

It is absolutely worth it. There is SO much color on this release. JM really benefits from this, especially in Yakuza strike, holy crap it's like boxes of crayons exploding on the DMD.

If you'd like an updated/longer video, let me know.

I'll make one and will try to have it up by this weekend.

Look, I am not trying to be "that guy", but DUDE.....get that game AWAY from the sunlight. Sheesh - you have a cabinet the rest of us dream of and it's directly next to a wide open window D: ...!!!

I am sure since those photos were taken, it has been moved, but man, my butthole puckered just seeing the sunlight hitting the cabinet.

If it makes you feel better, I am in the same boat.

Sure hope I make it to Tuesday. These first world problems are killing me .

Dude, I am not mad at all. I think it's funny that we're "getting all bent out of shape" over something so - in the GRAND scheme of life - not THAT big of a deal. Don't feel badly at all. I am 100% fine with the situation as it is.

Man, it's getting too serious round here D: ...

You should come over and play some BSD/ACDC! I'd say JM, but you kind of already have it .

My speaker panels just came in . Now you don't have to feel bad, agodfrey .

I am taking the time to change my speaker plastic with the new one from agodfrey. His stuff is VERY nice, and he put some good time into these to get them of high quality; and they fit VERY well.

When you do this, don't expect this to take 2 minutes, and you're done. B/W put some kind of plastic adhesive, and to put the new grill on right, you need to clean up the speaker panel and apply new adhesive to do it right.

I got the old one off using a boxcutter blade and took my time peeling it off for resale if someone wants an original B/W cover. I then cleaned off the mounting surfaces with isopropyl alcohol and some paper towels. While that dried, I took a staple gun and re-applied new stales to the speaker grilles as I found out they were loose and shaky. This happens because the mounting bolts for the speakers get torqued too far, and due to the bolt's length, the staples pop out and the grilles get loose. Once those were solid again, I applied 3M emblem adhesive (can get at any automotive store like Autozone), and mounted a bunch of clamps to hold the speaker panel in place. Later tonight, I will reinstall the speaker panel and do some before and after pictures for everyone.

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All done and installed! Forgive the translite looking whited out. The flash was on to emphasize the new speaker panel.

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So, guess I'm jumping back into the club, for a THIRD time....yep, a third time!!!!

Just couldn't say no to Darin's game - absolutely gorgeous example at a very fair (read: unannounced and keeping it that way) price. Going to try to stop trading games and just hang onto some now that I have a big enough basement to start a collection. First, AFM, and now, JM !!!!

Wonder what will come home next........maybe GB Prem..? Maybe Scared Stiff, maybe TAF or TZ...? I don't know, but we'll find out soon enough. See you in a week, Darin!

The seller's regret will go away when you get your Hobbit or GB LE .

Yep, rev'd and ready to head your way with the remainder in hand! I plan to leave early Saturday morning (8am or so) to get there at a decent time. After all, war stories, tech talk, pinball oogling, and most of all, food and fun times to be had, man! As I tell my wife, the trip is more fun than getting the game for me. It's about meeting people, sharing stories, getting to know each other, and having a good time to me. Bringing the game home is a bonus; it's the people and the memories I make with them that make this community what it is to me.

Now, if we have pizza....2x cheese with anchovies??????

Just FTR, it was a callout from the game/movie ! Anchovies are gross D:

N/M. Got it.

Some days, it just all comes together....

Was 1 shot from Power down. One.....shot.

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hehehehe - don't be too hard on yourself, Darin . I haven't even gotten close to that score since I posted that picture.

You know what they say: once is luck - twice is a pattern.

No patterns here .

GREAT game though, man. Very happy we did business. Oh, and I found NOS flipper opto boards. Just came in the mail yesterday ....

Anyone got any ideas on this problem?

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jm-all-switches-closed-upon-start-up

Can someone tell me where you get the black plastic piece that the flipper buttons push out of the way of the PCB optos? I have the GLM boards currently and I cannot stand them. You have to CONSTANTLY move the magnet on the board to get the flipper buttons for the hand to work correctly. I have NOS PCB flipper board ready; I just need the black plastic arm for the right side.20160507_123558_(resized).jpg

Thank you very much! I never knew what in the world that piece was called, and I couldn't find it in the manual - much appreciated!

What do you mean by "it" ? The hand, the game itself...? Is the game doing a ball search?

Check your ball trough optos. One of them may be flaky or the transmitter and receiver of one of the pairs may not be lining up properly. I use a mechanical pencil and break each opto beam one at a time. Do this in switch test mode and make sure all the optos are functioning properly.

Check the cybermatrix and make sure all 9 switches are registering in switch test mode.

Have you heard from him? I emailed him a week ago and have heard nothing.

He always does; I agree. Been a week today, so didn't know what was up.

Just to let everyone know, yep, he is very busy getting ready for Pin A Go Go. He did get back to me today, and I got my order in. Now, the patience part .

Two sources of information for your error:

https://groups.google.com/forum/m/#!topic/rec.games.pinball/mNSOTCPNklM (ended up being bad ICs at U20 and U23 on the cpu board)

as well as ...

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/tz-check-fuses-f115-and-f116-j112-and-opto-12v-supply (ended up being bad LM339 chips)

Both the ICs for U20/U23 as well as the LM339 chips are on the CPU board (referencing my AFM manual). The LM339 chips practically surround U20, so U16-U19, U25 and U26. With you saying your cpu board "bit the bust" earlier in the thread, I'd be highly suspicious of it.

If you find those chips are bad, send it off for repair. Don't make my mistake unless you have the skillsets and the proper tools.

My thread on this: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jm-all-switches-closed-upon-start-up

Chris Hibler is working his magic on my board right now.

I noted this behavior on mine as well. My first two JMs awarded it everytime I hit the left orbital...

Not saying anything is wrong with our JMs....it just seems weird/unusual to me.

Question guys, does anyone know the part number for this post?

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I looked in the manual and didn't see a page for this hardware. It is the post that is dead center in the next picture.

Post_(resized).jpg

The hexscrew broke off in the post while I was installing the cliffys. The game is fully back together; I want to replace this post next time I "go in" - anyone happen to know? Thanks!

I've gone and done it again....

4 times!!!!! This will be the last time x___x ...

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/64595

So.....is there a go-to list of "hey this is everything you need to properly fix and repair the glove the FIRST time you take it apart" ?

I have this "stammer behavior" going on with my glove. Just got the game today.

Finally got my JM this previous Monday. #4....yep, that's right- bought it a FOURTH time. I'm done buying this game over and over. This one stays.

Already tweaked and fixed a lot of stuff on it. Got the Polk PSW 10 sub to install and will get a ColorDMD on the way soon. LED'ing it up this weekend with my 5 yr old stepson.20180719_204001 (resized).jpg

So, I did a complete LED conversion with my 5 yr old stepson today. Some quick before and after photos...

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Love doing LED conversion. The heat is brought down, the current draw is minimal, and the game just LOOKS better - especially the playfield inserts. Holy smokes.

So, while I was in there, I did some cleaning in the back, and I saw the diverter arm placements and wondered "are those correct??"

Looking at some of the pictures previously in this thread, I think they are in the correct placement, but can anyone "trust but verify" for me?

I did read up on the scratching of the PF due to the diverter arm - thank you for some great discussion on that just a couple posts back!!

Here's the placement of the diverter directly below the hand:

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And here is the diverter closer to the spinner:

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Mostly cool white for the lights that "twinkle". One blue light in the top left, and an orange light for the explosion near the middle left. The top row entirely I left LEDs out. What I put in was enough lighting - about half the sockets....seriously!

Thank you : )! They are CoinTaker cool white, blue, and orange frosted bulbs: https://cointaker.com/t/frosted

I can take a picture of the bulbs without the translite when I get back from California around 11 August. Over in Oxnard, CA on a military assignment, and man, is it NICE without all the humidity...!!!

Just bought a ColorDMD LED display. Now, all six of them will be in full color. Good gosh all mighty, $2300 just in displays ....

Waiting on the cliffys for the ramps. If you want them, put an order in. Cliff is backed up about 3 months, so order now or you're waiting 3 months "down the road" when you finally decide it's time.

While I wait, I was able to track down the left and right ramps with decals and newly riveted SS ramp flaps. They are out there if you look. I know where a set are at about $380 (left and right only).... PM me if you want to know.

Ramps (resized).jpg

Whew.......that's better!
Before_ColorDMD_1 (resized).jpgAfter_ColorDMD_1 (resized).jpgBefore_ColorDMD_2 (resized).jpgAfter_ColorDMD_2 (resized).jpgBefore_ColorDMD_3 (resized).jpgAfter_ColorDMD_3 (resized).jpg

Once a ColorDMD file is available for a game, it's just a matter of time.....

TY!! Found one identical to it for $3.00 and free shipping.

ebay.com link: itm

I have a used one. It's in OK condition. Please see the pictures of the translite below:

20180716_210101 (resized).jpg

20180716_210104 (resized).jpg

They are 555s.

You can also use "superweb" grease. Its akin to grease used for lubrication bicycle chains.

I do not have any experience with that product.

This is what I bought from Amazon from recommendations here on Pinside:

Screenshot_20190313-100933_Chrome (resized).jpg

He is backlogged 2 to 3 months. If you order now, expect a late May to early June delivery. I speak from experience on this.

Boy, does that look familiar.....

Here's my thread when I got that error and my journey in fixing it.

Spoiler Alert: It was a bad U20 chip.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jm-all-switches-closed-upon-start-up

I agree with this. Don't buy random parts until properly diagnosed.

Start at 6.24.3 as suggested and watch the animations (provided as usual by the amazing pinsider zaza ) on that page to understand what to do.

This is truly diagnosing a problem, and the lessons learned here will help you so much in terms of understanding the problem, how to diagnose and locate it, and your ability to help others in the future.

The BOTTOM LINE:

If only one switch shows on the Switch Edge test for each pin combination, then the CPU's switch matrix is working properly and you can confidently assume that any switch problems lie elsewhere.

If multiple switch closures are reported when you touch one pin of the connector, or if the CPU reports a row or column short, then there is a fault with the switch matrix circuitry on the CPU board itself.

Let us know what you find. It's either going to be the MPU or something on the PF. Let's narrow it down, and then we'll go from there.