Here's my recent purchase after I fitted new decals and Sideblades.
Going through this thread from the start! This is interesting because my game came with black flippers and red rubber, I changed to blue rubber because I preferred the look. I never knew it was that way on the flyer.
Quoted from bajm:
I assume you got them from retrorefurb - the picture on their site looks pretty nice - is that not the case?
Yes, Retro Refurbs. The actual print quality is not as good as the mockup, they get a bit pixelated and fuzzy at actual pinball size and the protective covering adds to the fuzzy look. However, I am happy with them now that they are installed.
I'm having lots of fun trying to get all the shots for Access Code 1 (Captain Courageous) before the timer runs out, I'm just not that accurate a player. I've got to Powerdown a couple of times but I haven't achieved this one yet. Does anyone find it easy?
Quoted from MT45:
Bump for someone who knows the contact to get these "red text overlay" decals, send me a PM please? Thanks in advance!
Personally, I would sand off the decals and fit new ones. If a quick job was required, I would not bother with primer. I can't imagine even a quick job looking worse than decals on top of original artwork.
Quoted from SuperPinball:
Anyone know where I can get a full set of Decals, I searched all the usual sources but came up empty. Much appreciated.
Cabinet decals? I got a set of the Mikonos ones, I was very pleased although someone else commented that the red might be a little dark. Basically it's all emails and paypal. Official JM decals are not a think, AFAIK.
I've spent half of today stripping down the hand mechanism, replacing the X and Y nuts and cleaning out the gears and applying new grease. The hand is still blowing fuse F111 after it moves a few times. I'm guessing that one of the motors is struggling. My best hunch is that I didn't put enough grease back in the motor gears but are there any other likely reasons? How easy should the motor shafts be to turn by hand? I can turn them but they do put up some resistance.
The motor sensors (I've forgotten the proper name) and the home switches are working OK in switch edges if I operate the motors by hand so the hand is not trying to go past the limits.
Quoted from cmack750:
Fuse F111 is listed as the Flasher Secondary fuse. Should not be a problem with the hand itself, but the vibration/movement of the hand may be causing a short in the flasher mounted in the hand's back panel and cause that fuse to blow. Check the flasher wiring to make sure you don't have any insulation missing or a short in the cabling somewhere.
Also, have you read the Manual Addendum #1 and applied that fix? It directly relates to what I'm talking about.
Thanks for the great info about the flasher, which I didn't know. I'll take a look.
Update: It doesn't look to be flasher related, those wires aren't shorting and the flashers are working fine.
I'm struggling to see how F111 is not motor related when the motor stops working when it blows.
I definitely seem to have a motor problem, the motor just pulses when connected to 12v DC
I'm guessing that the motor isn't servicable. Are these motors available as a generic thing? I don't really want to pay $199 for the whole assembly with gearbox (if they are even in stock anywhere).
I've got the gear off the shaft and there are lots of similar looking motors out there. This motor needs to turn approximately 11 times to turn the X screw once but motors are listed with unloaded RPM so I don't know how that will translate. Basically, I'm going to do some trial and error with some cheap motors. I'll report back when I've solved it in case it helps someone in the future.
So I bought this cheap motor on Amazon, glued the gear on the shaft with epoxy because it was loose, put everything back together again and hey presto, working hand!
I didn't actually try it with my power supply but that should be how it works, I'm pretty sure that's how the game switches direction, by swapping the polarity.
I've not used Millwax since a bottle exploded all over my playfield (and anything else in the vacinity).
Quoted from dluth:
Can I just snip the wires and connect dark blue to orange and blue/white to purple/black?[quoted image]
Yes, that will work fine, solder and heatshrink sleeving would be better than the current bodge. Ideally, you would replace both sides of the connector but it's not necessary. Sort out that nasty white wire while you're at it.
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