(Topic ID: 41272)

Johnny Mnemonic Owner's Club

By Phetishboy

11 years ago


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#1736 8 years ago

My first pin and first owner's club is JM! I just finished paying for this one on Ebay. Has the normal cabinet fade. Playfield looks decent. Guy accepted $1900 for it. Says it's working 100%. I know to test the hand. Any other things to lookout for when I go pick it up. Here is the auction with pics if anyone wants to take a look: ebay.com link: JOHNNY MNEMONIC PINBALL MACHINE WILLIAMS w KEANU REEVES

#1756 8 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

Oh man is that pf dirty, you have your work cut out for you. Original asking price was waaaaay out of line.

agreed on price. I think he was basing it off the other two for sale which are 3k-3.5k. wow you are right. I'm going to have to bust out the shop vac on this thing tomorrow.

#1757 8 years ago
Quoted from Drewblood419:

I'm joining the club. Just scored this sweet JM at SFGE last week. This game is a blast!!!!! It came with a new set of ramps is anyone making decals for them yet?

where was this at SFGE? Do you mind sharing what you paid for it? I hope I can get mine looking that good.

#1758 8 years ago

Here is the playfield on mine after a little bit of cleaning. Wow is it filthy. It plays 100%, but it needs a lot of little things. I guess this makes for a good first pin to learn on. I have a few pressing questions, but will read this thread front to back first. Anyone interested in sales data, I negotiated to $1700 for this one. Operator in Charlotte NC. It was literally his last pin.

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#1772 8 years ago

I've never seen anyone on here mention the "Hardcoat" put on these tables. The operators manual mentions that mylar is only necessary in certain spots because of the hardcoat product. I thought the middle of the playfield had mylar on it, but now I don't think it ever did. I've gone over this playfield very well, and only found small to small medium size pieces of in various places. I have frozen it all off, and gone over the areas with Goof Off pro, which is basically naptha. The adhesive came right up and the paint as a looks great and has a brilliant shine. I'm guessing this is that hardcoat prodcut.

It's noticeable elsewhere on the playfield. The middle of the playfield seems to have this haze to it. I've gone over with 91% isopropyl, magic eraser, and microfiber cloth. It does not go away. This haze is only viewable at an angle, and appears to be over the paint. The paint overall looks great. If you see the front of the cab, you'll see it turned bright yellow. This was clearly left with the sun facing the playfield. Is this haze some kind of long term reaction with the sun? The place where the slingshots were is the best place to see what i'm talking about. Nice and shiny where they were, just outside, very hazy.

There is is also some kind of ball wear. You'll see a line in some common places up top and in & out lanes. It's really only noticeable at certain angles. The paint does not appear to affected at all. One shot is with the playfield propped up and the light not directly on it. It's the angle you don't see the haze and lines.

What should I do here?

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#1773 8 years ago

forgot the other 3. I mentioned these in the last post.

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#1777 8 years ago

@mustangpaul thanks! that makes a lot of sense. I have some Novus 2 on order. I missed your post about the Treasure Cove. Looks like I should give that a try.

I did go for the Ultimate light kit from PinballBulbs dot com. I believe it comes with a couple of extra spotlights and some add on strips that make GI a lot better.

@bigd1979 will do!

You'll notice all my miniposts and a few other items are still in the playfied. I have removed the bots, but they won't budge. I've read up on how to fix the damage caused by these coming out wrong (saw dust and wood glue)... but is there way to get them out without doing any damage? I've searched pretty hard, and can't find any tips. Hammer from the bottom or pliers from the top seem to be my only options. Not wild about either.

Not worried about damaging the wood, but rather the paint.

#1790 8 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

Put the nuts back on but not all the way, just till all the threads are covered and then tap them to push the post out the top of the pf. Once the nut is to the pf loosen the nut a few turns and repeat. That way you won't mess up the post threads.

that worked like a champ! Thank you!

#1797 8 years ago

My JM's manufacture date is 11/14/95. That makes it late in the run, which is a good thing, right?

#1822 8 years ago
Quoted from NinJaBooT:

Not sure of the benefit of a late run?

I thought it was due to the fact that any bugs discovered were worked out in the later runs. F-14 is an example of that with that flasher issue on the earlier ones.

There may not be with JM, just curious.

#1823 8 years ago
Quoted from agodfrey:

Anyone know what size hex wrench to use on the set screws for the hand couplings? Mine came loose a little on the Y-axis. 5/64 seems too big maybe, and 1.5 (mm....whatever metric is) seems to small. Just don't want to trip it so I didn't turn tooooo hard.

working on this right now! It's a 1/16 because I had to go to Lowes for a more complete set. One of them is stripped!

Anyone have tips on how to get that sucker out?

edited thanks Mustang Paul (see below)

#1825 8 years ago

No, I'm tool retarded. It says 1/16. I assumed 1/64.

#1826 8 years ago
Quoted from Law:

You shouldn't be removing the mylar that's there, it's there to prevent damage and cracking in ball drop and other high-impact locations.

thanks. I was wondering about that with where the ball drops. I can get some new, just really wanted the playfield to be clean.

7 months later
#2346 8 years ago

Hi Everyone

I've finally gotten my JM back together. I've gotten quite a bit of experience via a lot of trial and error. I thought it was ready to go, and now I'm having a problem with the glove working.

Let me give you some background. I gave the glove assembly the full Blondi Hacks treatment. Rebuilt both motors, new x and y nuts, etc. When I installed it the first time afterwards it worked flawlessly in test mode. Very smooth and fast. It did not jerk like when I first got it. I sat there and moved it back and forth, up and down for a good minute or so.

So I'm finally ready to play the game, and I fire it up. Make a shot into the lock, the VUK kicks it up, the magnet holds it for a second and then it drops. When I attempted to drive the glove before the ball dropped, there was no response.

The test mode errors now say No x progression, and X home switch error. I thought, "Okay, the diode on the x home switch is bad. I went ahead and replaced it. Reinstalled and got the exact same error. There is no movement when you fire it up now. In glove test mode, it registers when I click both x and y home switches, as well as the optos when I spin the black things manually. They all work in the switch edge test as well. The ball in hand switch works fine too.

I then decided to remove the assembly, and see what kind of errors appear when everything is disconnected. It gives me the exact same errors. This leads me to believe the issue does not lie with the assembly.

Does anyone have an experience like this and can perhaps give me some tips on where to look next to solve this issue?

#2348 8 years ago
Quoted from mot:

So you've got motor problems rather than switch problems. That's good to know.
So your motors aren't moving at all, right? Do the flashers work? Those use the same 20 V power source as the motors.
Oh wait, is the coin door closed for all your testing?
Check LED 5 on the power driver board for the presence of 20 volts. It should be lit. This is also power for flashers. Check fuses F111 and F112. The coin door interlock switch can also break this circuit.
Check the three connectors on the motor board under the playfield. Check power driver board connectors J118 (ground), J107 (20 volt power), and J126 (solenoid/flasher drivers to signal movement to the motor board).
Report back!

Correct. There is no motor movement at all now. I could not find anything labeled LED 5. I see that LEDs 1,4,6, and 7 are lit. There is an LED that is not lit approximately 2 inches above 6, but it is not labeled like these others. I'm guessing this is 5?

I understand the coin door issue. I closed it very quickly when it worked during my initial test. I did the same after the issue described and still get a fail.

I did notice that the Flashers did not work when I initially tested them. I attributed this to me replacing with LEDs. They do not work now.

I did purchase a fuse replacement kit from Marcos, but haven't installed yet. All the current ones look good. I am breaking out the multi-meter now, and checking the things you recommended. I will report back with what I find. Thanks for the help!

#2349 8 years ago

@mot

So F111 is only reading 16 V, F112 is 0, as is F113 and F114. I'm going to go ahead and replace and see what happens.

#2350 8 years ago

@mot

So I replaced F111 and LED5 is now lit (confirmed with the manual that is the one) and the Flashers are working when tested. I'm going to reinstall the glove assembly now.

#2354 8 years ago

@mot @Jgaltr56

I replaced that fuse and put everything back together. Everything is working well. I just played like 10 games in a row, and it was wonderful. That F111 fuse didn't look blown... so I don't know if it just wore out. It definitely looked like it had some age to it. I will keep an eye on things. Have to put the rest of the LEDs in the inserts, and then I will be posting pics.

Thanks for the help.

#2355 8 years ago

duplicate, please delete

#2356 8 years ago

Here it is with the PinballBulbs.com ultimate LED kit installed. Playfield was given the full Treasure Cove treatment.

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