Longshot but does anybody have a middle ramp for JM? Mine is a little warped

Rebuilt my entire glove assembly with all new parts and hardware. Cleaning up today and if anyone wants these OE parts LMK. Had a problem with the x-axis movement so some of this maybe good to tinker rebuild etc?! Was gonna toss but maybe some interest?

Just pay for postage and you can have it! (Manual not included)

IMG_7383 (resized).jpegIMG_7384 (resized).jpeg

On the way to a fellow JM owner!

On its way to a JM owner! Thanks for all the interest!

I installed these decals I purchased from rvermeire I think it came out really good, it looks a lot better than it did. here’s a few before and after pics

193DD990-F080-4208-A758-6637AC628DAC (resized).jpeg2F97274F-E8E9-4403-BDFF-D1A07FFE7AA1 (resized).jpeg6D7C1A7D-198A-498E-998A-675087B2F103 (resized).jpeg9EE5146E-A44A-4A3E-9848-E4B68CBA86FA (resized).jpegC24832C9-0F3A-46D8-AD2C-6E63AD4B1DE6 (resized).jpeg
7B6C22C2-68B0-4886-A550-36066831707F (resized).jpeg

85F2950A-6062-4AB6-B8F9-BC827181F4B4 (resized).jpeg

Wow that does look sharp. Very tempting

Very nice
Might I suggest using the Stern leg brackets over the plastic ones?

How tight is everyone’s playfield and cabinet? Wanted to add some mirror blades or art blade to JM. My game seems to be extremely tight.

Did you router a recess into the cabinet? Is that how you cut it?

I installed mirror blades on mine without any issues. They look great.

Don44, like DK mentioned above, you should really reconsider using Pincab-style cabinet protectors on your freshly re-decaled cabinet. If they are directly touching your new decals, they will cause the decals to wrinkle over time.

Get some metal cabinet protectors from Pinballlife (or your favorite retailer)
https://www.pinballlife.com/metal-cabinet-protectors-set-of-4.html

Looks great with the new decals. Couple of questions...
Were they easy to install? How is the quality so far? How thoroughly did you prep the cabinet before applying? Wet or Dry install method?

I did use some stern metal protectors when I initially did the decals.
My cabinet was in rough shape. It had a crack on one side on the top layer of the wood so I spackled it to flatten it down. It was also paint smeared on the cabinet. I also did some scraping where the previous decals were wrinkled. I filled in a few things here and there as well. Any tiny little divots will show after you put the decals on so it’s important to get everything smooth. I used the wet method and did them by myself. it wasn’t that hard to line up because you could move the decal. It only took about one hour. The lettering lines up almost perfect.

Looks like I’m leaving the club - anyone interested in the promo board. Never seen another one. Matches the original topper from the game launch. DM me an offer if interested

08DDA4ED-756C-4D0E-A74F-319ED6359422 (resized).jpeg

97473D34-3AB8-4EEE-9558-7A90FF1265EC (resized).jpeg

I'm looking for JM decals as well as a playfield protector. I read some sellers have the decals all wrong. Who do you recomend I purchase the decals from?

Any recomendations on a playfield protector as well?

Any opinions on this protector that has the playfield image on it ?
https://www.pinball.center/en/shop/pinball-parts-by-game/johnny-mnemonic/9641/printed-playfield-protector-for-johnny-mnemonic

Thanks for the help.

Pinball Decals EU has good Johnny decals.

On my machine, when the glove has a ball in it and travels over another ball in the matrix, the ball in the magnet will slightly hit the other ball in the matrix. Is there an adjustment fix for this?

Xianek will probably have the best you’ll find.

In my experience this means either your x or y nut, can't remember which is which, is worn out. Time to check out the glove mech

Have any of you put a playfield protector on or clear coat?
What product did you end up with?

I have this issue as well.
Might as well be the x or y nut but is the clearance really that small? A worn nut shouldn’t be a lot of play still…

I have the same issue. Honestly thought it was how it’s supposed to be

Well see my previous post #4146. After rebuild my glove worked perfect with no drag. After few hundred games started to get ball drag and magnetization. Shortly after the X nut had worn so badly it almost went through the side of the nut and was now inoperable and rod would just spin in nut with no glove movement.

Just got one, overall works well. I’m missing the backglass and transliteration, and may need a plastic or two, but excited to get a few games in!

Anyone have a rubber size list? Nothing listed in the manual and I’d really like to replace a few, specifically the rings around the outlanes. Any help would be great, thanks!

I grabbed this off Titan's site:

https://www.titanpinball.com/kits/index.php/browse/bygame/2532
JM rubbers (resized).jpg

I'm going to be upgrading my game with a mirrored back glass sometime soon, if you need a translite for your Johnny and don't mind covering the cost of shipment it's yours. Feel free to shoot me a PM.

Appreciate that, thank you

Dang, already bought them haha. Just got it all cleaned up and it was working perfectly. I changed a few inserts to LEDs, and now the glove isn’t working properly. Haha. (Yes, power was off when I changed bulbs out.)

Issue is when the ball pops up to the glove, the glove won’t drop it. It will then wait and go through the ball search a couple of times, and about the third time the hand will go back to the VUK that pops the ball up, the glove will drop the ball right back into that hole, and the VUK will pop it back up, then it happens all over again. Anyone seen this happen?

Have you checked the switch for “ball in glove”?

Game will work fine with that switch disabled

Meaning in test mode, right? Yes, the switch registers. But hard to test with the ball up there, so maybe it’s just not triggering with the ball, even though I can trigger it? When the ball is in the glove, right when I touch it the ball releases, so maybe that’s it

So what is it for then?

To make a credit dot apparently.

There is a relatively simple hack to get rid of the credit dot from not having a ball in hand switch

http://coinoplove.com/JM.html

How bad is it that I read that a few times and still don’t understand the solution??? Haha

Well, I just purchased a Johnny Nmemonic today. The guy I purchased it from had it in his house since 1998. Cabinet decals show fade, but overall the game is in great condition. One small problem though, the battery holder is very corroded. I knew this purchasing it but it was such a great buy I could not turn it down.

Is it possible to clean the corrosion on the battery terminals or do I need to replace the whole battery holder, etc.?

Thank you.

Yes, if it’s not too far gone, white vinegar, then alcohol to clean the vinegar off.

Thank you. Sounds like a plan.

Looking for an Johnny key fob.. Does anyone wanna sell?

Can anyone provide me a picture of the left and right flipper assembly on their Johnny Nmemonic? I just purchased one yesterday and the flippers are weak. I followed Vid's guide on Flipper Rebuilds and looking at the picture from his post, my EOS switch was the opposite of what is shown in the image below. The short part of the EOS switch was on the outside near the spring, not on the inside as shown below...and the EOS was open, not closed. So, I changed it as shown below. However, now the flipper sometimes stays in the up position when I use it.

Thank you for your help.

1 (resized).png

This is what you would find on pins like T2, or TAF without fliptronics boards, the EOS switch was wired closed (together) and the flipper prawl would push apart the switch opening the loop. Games after 91 like JM, the EOS switch is wired open (apart).. So the opposite of what is pictured here hence why you are having issues with the flipper staying up (it thinks the flipper has been engaged)

Ahh...makes sense. Thank you. When I first looked at this and compared to Vid's guide I was thinking to myself that the guy I purchased JM from was not the kind of guy that would have dared mess with the flippers and they must have originally been that way. The guy never even changed the rubbers in the 25 years he had it.

Surprised Vid did not mention that change in his guide, unless I missed it.

Not for nothing, there IS a BIG sticker next to the flipper mechs on the underside of the playfield that says something to the effect of "THESE ARE NEW STYLE FLIPPERS, THE EOS SWITCH IS NORMALY OPEN, UNLIKE OLDER GAMES THAT ARE NORMALLY CLOSED", haha. Every post WPC fliptronics game I've ever had or worked on had that sticker, even on games that came out YEARS after they switched. It's also pretty much on the first page of the manual. Just busting your chops.

When the EOS switches are closed, the flipper coils are in low power hold, hence the weak action.

That said, the EOS switches on fliptronics games are basically redundant (assuming they are normally open), as the computer automatically switches the flipper to low power hold a few milliseconds after the flipper is engaged, but I guess if during multiball a ball came rocketing back to a flipper you were cradling a ball on, you might get a little "blip" on the flipper without them.

Needing some glove help. Bought the game with the glove not working correctly. Put in new x and y nuts and now the glove moves forward on the y axis but will not move backwards. It seems that it is almost moving it forward to much as it is making the y nut right against the bracket in the front Its harder to get it to spin backwards by hand then it should be. If I back it up manually when I turn the game on it attempts to find home but runs the glove all the way out and it stays there. The y nut is thicker on one end than the other and I installed it with the thicker end facing the rear of the cab Going into test it is just doing self test and failing. It's not letting me go into manually moving it with the flippers. Tried a factory reset with no luck. Any other suggestions?

Grandnational,
I have to look for that sticker...I have not seen it yet but if it is there...DUHHH, I am a dumb a**.

Anyways, I adjusted the EOS switch so that at the very end of the stroke the switch gets closed. I inspected everything...coil looks good, coil stop is good, plunger is not worn. This game was not played much by the owner and he had it since 1998. I replaced the sleeve and spring for good measure, but everything looks like new. This is the first game I have where there is a pc board in the cabinet at the flipper buttons instead of a switch.

However, both flippers are still weak. Any recommendations other than flipper rebuild kit?

There should be a switch that it hits just above the axis that will tell the game where it is so it can find home. I’d manually register that switch in test to ensure it activates… then I’d make sure it gets activated when the glove moves into position.

I’d suggest a rebuild kit, as the old original plungers could be mushroomed, the linkages could be loose (or gummed up), which will all create drag.

I’d also suggest cleaning the optos in the cabinet with a qtip and alcohol (the opto boards are mounted right next to the buttons on the wall of the cabinet). Check the interuptors as well.