Nice job!

So where are we getting the correct cabinet decals these days? Lots of talk about sub-quality ones in this thread. On my to-do list.

Anyone looking to sell their Johnny Mnemonic? Putting out feelers for those in the DC area, north or south of there (VA, DE, MD, PA, NC, WV). Thanks!

Were you using the thick super lube? I'm sorry this sounds disheartening.

I can't remember if it's the synthetic or silicone Super Lube but either way it is rather thin.

I haven't pulled it apart yet to really give it a close look.

I'm actually only familiar with the super thin stuff for spinners. It looks like it the other kinds are thick an greasy enough. I've only used the teflon goop from that awesome guide. Super web grease.

Anyone have or know where to buy in the USA, this plastic?

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/johnny-mnemonic-is-there-an-owners-club-yet/page/77#post-6752161

I’ll have to look for it.. but there is a guy in Brazil that remakes (unofficially) the entire plastics kit for JM. If I can find it I’ll post.

If you have Facebook.. send this guy a PM about JM plastics.

479479C8-3701-4B81-BF02-4AA356F24411 (resized).png

I would like to amend my comment on the CPR speaker panel replacement. The panel is a DIRECT replacement for the factory black speaker panel plastic.

I had one of the first ones every made by CPR and the dimensions were to a wpc95 panel, which is why my original was too big.

My new CPR speaker panel plastic is perfect. I event cut the panel wood to light up "The Ultimate Hard Drive" red portion.

cpr panel (resized).jpeg

Twins!

E37BA127-DF64-4F80-93B0-A87E014248C0 (resized).jpeg

Triplets

16779386467978555917382865403695 (resized).jpg

Any of you willing to sell your old speaker cover? My JM didn't come with a speaker panel. I had an extra RS panel but still need the JM panel skin. Thanks. Stebel Power87 Luke

sure! Pm me

My speaker cover is extremely scratched up hence why it was replaced. It really would not be worth using.

Has someone created a new GB spinner sticker to correct the Gb error? Fairly new here and haven't gone through all previous posts. Was this just a mistake from Williams?

What is the error?

In this context, the lower case 'b' is shorthand for 'bits', while an uppercase 'B', which is obviously what they meant, is shorthand for 'bytes'.
320 Gb is only 40 GB; still an impressive amount of storage capacity for 1995.

decal says 120Gb (Gigabit) instead of of 120 GB (GigaByte)

120Gb (resized).png

Oops, yes 320GB. I typed it all and then added the pic.

320 not 120

I got the playfield in the cabinet and apron on it. Door is being powder coated. Next is to get the remaining boards installed and powder coat the remaining armor. The. I can fire it up for testing. Also these are the decals from Pinball Decals EU.

14FF3B6B-8F86-4FFB-A52F-D49884C0D813 (resized).jpeg

30FF6269-17E1-4AE6-802C-F2C3004E8F28 (resized).jpeg

Need help, hand not working. I have NO idea what I’m doing. I have read through every thread I have found, rebuilt, x and Y screws, and still nothing but small movement, and then hand test shows failed, but game looks cool!

image (resized).jpg

Try doing a factory reset.
Worked for me when i rebuilt the hand

Thank you, I did read that and I did try it, to no avail.
I was thinking it was a motor issue, but yesterday my friend got it to move a little

Added ColorDMD LED that I had not being used; new mirror blades I had for year; LED OCD board for the insert LEDs and a shaker kit also not being used for a few years.

Wow! Great additions to a fun flowing game.

Anyone else make their game harder? I removed the adjustable, left outlane post completely. Right outlane post is in the middle position, didn't change that.

Extra ball memory is off. You need to collect the extra ball before draining. I prefer this in general with all my games because it gives the extra ball a sense of urgency. Otherwise if you know you can drain because it's lit on your next ball, that's not fun.

Mnemonic Recovery, left outlane ball save memory is off. It's lit for ball one, but every ball after you have to re-lite the ball save. Does not carry over to the next ball, every ball starts with it off.

It’s probably one of the optos that the opto wheel passes through. Make sure you can physically spin each wheel with your hand and then it’s not caught up somewhere. then go into switch test mode and see if both Optos on each axis is registering

Those are all excellent changes. I have seen many JM missing the left outlane metal post.

Before the changes how often where you reaching PowerDown?

How steep do you have your game pitched?

Like all my games, my feet are all the way extended, feet are sitting on top of 2 floor sliders on each side and a 1/2 inch rubber shim on each side. Front feet are removed.

Game plays so freaking fast you are lucky to get 1 minute ball times. (Outer orbit shot can sometimes throw the ball over your flippers on the way back)

Both opto’s are working, tried to help him out yesterday, but not familiar with Johnny,
But more than happy to go over and help cricrow with some type of direction

Haven't reached it yet. I started ownership with the post removed and did not reinstall it. Had it lit twice at least though.

Do you have the glove turned on or off in settings..
Just a thought lol you never know.

It is turned on and the the error message is x no progress
X home switch error

Did you try reflowing the solder to the motor? Maybe there is a cold solder joint and it isn't getting a good connection.

Is there a sling power option? Didn’t see it last night

New JM in the house! Full teardown / rebuild log to follow

Deleted

It looks great, that’s an insane amount of work to get done in 8 1/2 hours. That would’ve taken me a whole weekend

Thank you! My previous post's pictures got out of whack so reposting it here:

Full JM teardown and build log:

1D069555-3885-49F7-A975-E65901F1D72D (resized).jpeg 346AB3E9-899E-4444-A728-942094A65BC0 (resized).jpeg E3EEA492-C8C1-4717-87E8-CEE3DA289436 (resized).jpeg 9997153B-7A67-4D78-AD68-818F098B6077 (resized).jpeg

Started the full tear down around 2pm EST. Just wrapped up around 10:30pm.

- Full removal of all ramps, plastics, posts, rubbers, mechs.

1EEACA9A-F538-40A7-9AC8-9A09D56F03D6 (resized).jpeg

- Removed Mylar from pop bumper area using a can of compressed air turned upside down

D85226DF-4E3A-4DD5-AB18-6C5D77728641 (resized).jpeg F8A9DBB2-E1D8-4D79-8B80-C48513EC09EE (resized).jpeg 9644E3DE-00C3-40FA-BA9E-DBAE88AF1D1A (resized).jpeg

I’ve been on a streak removing Mylar from all my games without pulling up any artwork. The key thing is to let the freezing solution do the cutting / lifting. Never pull! It will lift on its own as long as you are sweeping left to right underneath the piece of mylar.

166AB99A-0CF2-446B-BD04-837E93EF3DDA (resized).jpeg

***This is THE best and quickest most efficient way to remove adhesive left from factory Mylar***

Lay down a paper towel flat over your adhesive area… Soak it completely with 90% alcohol…. Let it sit for atleast 10 minutes..

85C5D85B-EDBD-4EED-824E-2699C7101CF9 (resized).jpeg 7E15004B-E122-4D9F-AA53-DEF93993B288 (resized).jpeg

Come back and rub with a clean microfiber and it will pile up all the adhesive… mist the area as you wipe away as the adhesive will pile up under your towel and basically rub back into the playfield.. keeping it wet will keep it lifted

I’ve spent over an hour in the past trying to remove the mylars adhesive often becoming tougher than pulling the Mylar up.. I’ve tried Goo gone, brake cleaner, heat gun, scotch pads, rubbing alcohol, nail polish remover…. Nothing beats the above method.

936FAF99-18DD-4D6D-857D-F3D106C86A2D (resized).jpeg 6C553D96-669A-4FB8-8558-B71E336EE224 (resized).jpeg

- Installed all new blue posts and rubbers

- Rebuilt pop bumpers completely, including new skirts, bodies, spoons, switches, tops, 555 light fixtures, springs, plungers, and plates all in translucent blue

- Wet sanded all ball guides with 2000 grit and 90% alcohol

- Waxed playfield thoroughly

- Flame polished every single plastic and ramp top and bottom

A4816B9B-AB45-4822-B367-AF9A8518B695 (resized).jpeg D86BB7A8-032E-4E93-B3B0-C2653D43707E (resized).jpeg

- Rebuilt glove with new X and Y nuts, cleaned out both gear boxes ridding machine of that horrific screech when moving

- Rebuilt flippers with new armatures, sleeves, springs, flipper bushings

4BDA7808-1A67-478C-B90A-B504C22166F3 (resized).jpeg DE54869F-9B77-403C-91FD-52BA1EE91750 (resized).jpeg 7D07002B-1DE2-4BFB-8C3C-F0AA82D44F5C (resized).jpeg AA079A06-CDDC-4B89-A634-E3DF35FC9A98 (resized).jpeg

- Installed Cointaker Ultra brite purple LEDs in GI

- Installed Comet LED strips and 8 SMD pads all over the game, including back box, DMD glare guard to light up speaker panel, above the playfield in the back

- Installed Pinsound plus board running my own custom cyber / epic music and sounds.
Board was was repaired by Pinsound at TPF to fix “Engine error” that was randomly popping up leaving game with no audio

D4E443CB-CFFD-4462-90E9-B3FE6CF96648 (resized).jpeg

- Dialed everything in, game plays Too fast, but I love that! I had the glass off while tweaking some things, two loops around the outer orbit I tried to stop the ball with a flipper in the upwards position hit so hard and fast the ball literally flew outside of the machine and on to the floor

Thanks for reading!

Joined!
Straight trade for my DE Jurassic Park.
Dirty but playfield is in excellent condition, everything seems to work but needs a thorough cleaning.
Cabinet/side arts are worn but nothing extraordinary.
Excited to get to know this game!
2E6BF1C0-53B1-45E8-B295-8D60E5BB1274 (resized).jpeg54705A10-066F-4449-AC00-AB36F44F3D4F (resized).jpeg89A963FE-4F40-4681-8F38-38386D91C3F9 (resized).jpegA3B2FF62-4680-4E9D-943E-1201251A74F7 (resized).jpegBDAE5874-DED7-4139-9CEB-3631B1332CCE (resized).jpegCA64A322-A51B-4B85-8259-4F2830B18886 (resized).jpegD5EDF928-E275-4F9E-98AF-5D80F51CC2F1 (resized).jpegEF5292D2-CFBC-466A-80EC-32144658B30A (resized).jpeg

Has anyone ever tried to recreate the topper in this pic from the Pinball Compendium?
I have the promo board shown on the front but not the side pieces

78CBD933-3E02-4498-BFDB-F13B04EFA10D (resized).jpeg

May very well be the only topper larger than DE Jurassic Park.

Getting closer to bringing Johnny online. Thanks to Luke_Nukem for supplying me with the missing speaker panel skin.

A063F7CF-3736-4DCA-8BE4-AACCC2986073 (resized).jpeg

Please post pics of the promo board.

Here is a pic, it’s the width of the backbox so perfect fit for a topper

Except pinside isn’t letting me upload a pic

It finally uploaded!

F82B6154-A08E-4FC2-9290-FF7B3F0C5DC1 (resized).jpeg

Does anyone make playfield plastic protectors for Johnny?

Anyone have one of these promo posters for sale?

Decided to swap out the flippers.
Out with the tobacco yellowed ones and in with white.
Really lifts the overall look of the game.
And some blue rubbers for some pinball-porno.
EADEEE24-7578-404B-8720-39373F7E17DA (resized).jpeg
9CA401C3-2E72-419F-8476-1E030277646C (resized).jpeg