(Topic ID: 41272)

Johnny Mnemonic Owner's Club


By Phetishboy

7 years ago



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  • Latest reply 17 days ago by Jason_Jehosaphat
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There are 3523 posts in this topic. You are on page 66 of 71.
#3251 1 year ago
Quoted from dudah:

He's a busy guy, wait a week or two and try again

Thanks Dudah, I asked because I didn't want to keep bugging the guy if he is just back logged.

#3252 1 year ago
Quoted from Aeolus7:

Joined the club this weekend! I'm very excited, though having issues out of the gate. I had to take the backbox off to move it and I'm concerned I did something wrong on reassembly. I did a lot of verifying and can't figure out what if anything is incorrect, though there seems to be several variations between the WPC manuals...
Symptoms:
* turned the game on and the DMD was scrambled.
* Double checked connectors, re-seated, turned on the game, no improvement
* then the DMD went black, GI and inserts went out, the glove didn't move at startup, and the flippers started firing
* booted in safe mode, checked TP voltages on the driver board, all appeared ok (TP1: 15.3, TP2: 4.8, TP3: 11.9, TP4:0, TP5:0, TP6:72.8, TP7: 21.5, TP8-18)
* booted without the fliptronics board plugged in and no change
Attached some areas of concern after consulting the manuals (J137/138 = interchangeable? J133/134 = interchangeable?). The numbers on my CPU also do not match the manual (206, 207, 208 are different than in the manual). Do these look correct?
[quoted image][quoted image]

Your voltages all seem good.
I would suspect the ribbon cables, specifically the CPU>Fliptronics>Sound>DMD chain. Ensure that the pins aren't bent, ensure the connectors are lined up properly (no skipped pins) and in good physical condition.
Also check the CPU>Driver ribbon.

#3253 1 year ago
Quoted from dudah:

Your voltages all seem good.
I would suspect the ribbon cables, specifically the CPU>Fliptronics>Sound>DMD chain. Ensure that the pins aren't bent, ensure the connectors are lined up properly (no skipped pins) and in good physical condition.
Also check the CPU>Driver ribbon.

I will do that, thank you! I'll check the pins and maybe do a continuity test on the ribbons if everything looks okay. Visually, the DMD ribbon doesn't look great going into the sound board. I also noticed the molex connecting the CPU to the battery board was a little wobbly. Could a bad solder joint(s) from the battery holder cause something like this?

#3254 1 year ago
Quoted from Lamilvelo:

Thanks Dudah, I asked because I didn't want to keep bugging the guy if he is just back logged.

He is backlogged 2 to 3 months. If you order now, expect a late May to early June delivery. I speak from experience on this.

#3255 1 year ago
Quoted from NPO:

He is backlogged 2 to 3 months. If you order now, expect a late May to early June delivery. I speak from experience on this.

I'm just waiting to hear back from the email that I can order some from him. I'm fine waiting I just want to get in the queue.

#3256 1 year ago

Fixed my issue, which was a misplaced ribbon cable connection (off by an entire row of pins). Thank you dudah & crazylevi for the suggestion

Now back to more important things, does anyone happen to have extras of these plastics?!

7C35E892-D6A7-4F6A-BF8F-A8762F02F62A (resized).jpegB114F4D9-6C19-429A-BC82-6F1F052821FE (resized).jpeg
#3257 1 year ago

Does anyone have a good left ramp?

#3258 1 year ago
Quoted from Jenniebear:

Does anyone have a good left ramp?

PM sent

#3259 1 year ago

Going to rebuild the flippers soon and just wondering how you determine the correct flipper bat position? I don’t see any alignment holes.

#3260 1 year ago
Quoted from yuriijos:

Going to rebuild the flippers soon and just wondering how you determine the correct flipper bat position? I don’t see any alignment holes.

Come on, you should know the answer to that.

#3261 1 year ago

I’ve read that the bats should line up with the lane guide screws but still seems kinda like guess work.

Added 15 months ago:

Looked at a lot of different flipper pictures and not many have the tips of each left and right flipper directly in line with the lane screws.

1 week later
#3262 1 year ago
Quoted from yuriijos:

Added 5 days ago: Looked at a lot of different flipper pictures and not many have the tips of each left and right flipper directly in line with the lane screws.

I would agree. You are trying to avoid any sort of hop or dip as the ball transitions from the lane to the flipper, so I always focus on that line, meaning the top of the lane guide as it flows to the top of the flipper rubber. Here's a related discussion -- https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/aligning-flippers-rubber-on-or-off-flipper

#3263 1 year ago

Johnny has been shopped (topside), cleaned, titan translucent rubbers, color DMD, 3 spotlights added, LEDs swapped with Comet sunlight 2 SMD. Looks & plays great. Now I just have to make sense of the plot of the movie. Enjoying the callouts though, and I'm glad the dolphin from SeaQuest could score another gig.

JM1 (resized).jpgJM2 (resized).jpg

#3264 1 year ago

I put 2 SMD sunlight’s in mine too and it looks great, dont really care for colored GI on this game. Color DMD may be next as the animations look too good not to have one. There goes another $400+

#3265 1 year ago

Anybody have an extra left hand assembly with the magnet by chance?

#3266 1 year ago
Quoted from yuriijos:

I put 2 SMD sunlight’s in mine too and it looks great, dont really care for colored GI on this game. Color DMD may be next as the animations look too good not to have one. There goes another $400+

Agreed. Sunlights are my jam, frosted in the GI and clear in the inserts/backbox. Plenty bright, highlights the original colors of the game really well. It makes things easy from an ordering standpoint as well as 99% of the time I'm only ordering two types of bulbs. To each his own.

The ColorDMD adds a lot actually. This is first time I've sprang for one. For one thing, I find it much easier to follow action/directions in quick glances in color vs monochrome dots.

#3267 1 year ago

So I made it to power down for the first time and I thought I read that when your in that mode and as the sections start powering down it is suppose to also power down parts of the GI. It all happened so fast but what I think I saw when sections were powering down were just all the inserts in that section turned off and didn’t notice any of the GI go off. I do have LED’s in the GI and I also have the dimming feature turned off so I wonder if that’s why my GI didn’t dim or go off. So is the GI suppose to turn off or dim?

1 week later
#3268 1 year ago

Jeez where are all the JM owners? Anybody know what to check with this message? Game freezes up and don’t know where to start. Must have a ground short but where or what is row 1? Thanks.

33FF569E-70EE-4ED9-A732-49B99A32BA37 (resized).jpeg
#3269 1 year ago
Quoted from yuriijos:

Jeez where are all the JM owners? Anybody know what to check with this message? Game freezes up and don’t know where to start. Must have a ground short but where or what is row 1? Thanks.
[quoted image]

I'm no expert, but I think it's referring to these:

pasted_image (resized).png
#3270 1 year ago

You might want to look for a tech in your area to take a look at things. Regardless, http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#Switch_Problems

#3271 1 year ago
Quoted from yuriijos:

Jeez where are all the JM owners? Anybody know what to check with this message? Game freezes up and don’t know where to start. Must have a ground short but where or what is row 1? Thanks.
[quoted image]

Boy, does that look familiar.....

Here's my thread when I got that error and my journey in fixing it.

Spoiler Alert: It was a bad U20 chip.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jm-all-switches-closed-upon-start-up

#3272 1 year ago

What’s the part number for the U20 chip please? Who did you order it from? My socket looks fine so I’ll just replace the chip. Any suggestions in getting the old chip out of the socket? Thanks.

#3273 1 year ago

uh test the switch matrix first. start at 6.24.3 from that page on pinwiki I linked.

#3274 1 year ago
Quoted from supermoot:

uh test the switch matrix first. start at 6.24.3 from that page on pinwiki I linked.

I agree with this. Don't buy random parts until properly diagnosed.

Start at 6.24.3 as suggested and watch the animations (provided as usual by the amazing pinsider zaza ) on that page to understand what to do.

This is truly diagnosing a problem, and the lessons learned here will help you so much in terms of understanding the problem, how to diagnose and locate it, and your ability to help others in the future.

The BOTTOM LINE:

If only one switch shows on the Switch Edge test for each pin combination, then the CPU's switch matrix is working properly and you can confidently assume that any switch problems lie elsewhere.

If multiple switch closures are reported when you touch one pin of the connector, or if the CPU reports a row or column short, then there is a fault with the switch matrix circuitry on the CPU board itself.

Let us know what you find. It's either going to be the MPU or something on the PF. Let's narrow it down, and then we'll go from there.

#3275 1 year ago

Gotcha thanks guys. I’ll defintely check the switch matrix first and report back. Another thing that has me wondering tho, the game was froze with the message as shown in my post and I went around checking other connectors. When I pushed in connector J107 on the power driver board the game un-froze and was then able use the menu buttons and get back into regular game play. Seems like something may be going on there?

#3276 1 year ago
Quoted from yuriijos:

Gotcha thanks guys. I’ll defintely check the switch matrix first and report back. Another thing that has me wondering tho, the game was froze with the message as shown in my post and I went around checking other connectors. When I pushed in connector J107 on the power driver board the game un-froze and was then able use the menu buttons and get back into regular game play. Seems like something may be going on there?

Possible. Follow the instructions and let's see what it is. Not purposefully trying to be vague - it's just that a problem can have so many possibilities...so let's see if it's on the MPU or on the PF.

1 week later
#3277 1 year ago

I tried to lower the enormous factory default high scores in the settings, but it still shows up as the default in the attract screen. If I go back into adjustments, the change was retained. Am I missing something?

#3278 1 year ago

It has a backup high score setting you have to change first in some weird sub menu, then you have to reset them.

#3279 1 year ago

Took me awhile to figure it out also. It's been awhile but yea it's in a different menu to reset those. I still haven't gotten to power down mode and it's driving me crazy!

#3280 1 year ago

I want to tell a Little Story. About "Pro"ing down your game... and Johnny Mnemonic of course.

How often do we have discussions where we discuss the necessity of the Stern Premium Features over the Pro, that these features don't add to the game or whatnot. Sometimes these things are most likely correct, sometimes it depends what you are looking for in a game but most times I'd argue that everyone *defends* their purchase, wich is still dictated by their wallet.
If a Stern Pro would cost exactly as much as a Premium, who would still buy the Pro?
Who knows, we can't test that, can we?

When I got my Johnny Mnemonic, wich was supposed to be FULLY WORKING, the Hand did it's Job exactly one time, dieing nearly completely.
The switch was broken, the magnet couldn't hold up power and the metal assembly where the magnet is placed in was also broken.

The switch wasn't available anywhere at that time, the magnet only in one shop for 3 times the usual price and the metal bracket still nowhere to be found.

Luckily the game has an Option to switch the glove off, while not really change the gameplay with that.
So basically you're getting the Pro Version of the game.
I mean, the Hand is mostly for effect, altough there is a lot of strategy involved in the ball placement for invested players.
But physically despite the "magic" you only loose the physical ball lock and get a software one.

Oh I can imagine the chatter in my head if this would be a Stern Pro/ Premium thing.

So I played JM "Pro" for a while. And yes it still was a good game, would have been a great game even if the (now always up) drop target wouldn't send so many balls straight down the middle. (3 second ball save after hitting that target would be a solution for that.)

So eventually I repaired the whole thing. Got a new magnet, repaired the switch with an easy hack, 'kind of' repaired the bracket, got new X and Y nuts and steel rod... all the stuff.

So, most noticable difference:
The game suddenly got easier (and a bit deeper).
But more importantly the game got it's own distinct toy and flavor with that. It got completely unique and the mechanism doesn't cease to amaze me.

So, fast Forward to 2019, with most (not every) Stern:
Does the price increase justify the additional extras in the game?
"If you could not afford a Premium the Pro is still a good game."
It is, but you miss out it's uniquene magic.
(Remember, I written "most", not "every".)

I think that is why we see Munsters Pro Kind of crashing down now in peoples long-term opinions.
Not only because of code. Munsters Pro is a great shooting game, but it has nothing we haven't seen before or really stands out.
The full fledged mini playfield is unique. It makes the game deeper and easier (since you can't loose the ball while playing on it), so for me... just like my JM in some weird way.

And no, I myself have no clue why I wanted to write this.

Just lovin' the game. Tiny 2 - 3 pin collection with a lot of fluctuation, but this one is now in it's 3rd year.
And of course I always ask myself: Pro or Premium?
Not so sure about that anymore but never underestimate the "unique" power of a "not worth it?" mech.

#3281 1 year ago
Quoted from supermoot:

It has a backup high score setting you have to change first in some weird sub menu, then you have to reset them.

That did the trick, thank you. Now I can actually make the high score table, lol!

#3283 1 year ago

Anyone have a spare playfield?

#3284 1 year ago
Quoted from DS_Nadine:

I want to tell a Little Story. About "Pro"ing down your game... and Johnny Mnemonic of course.
How often do we have discussions where we discuss the necessity of the Stern Premium Features over the Pro, that these features don't add to the game or whatnot. Sometimes these things are most likely correct, sometimes it depends what you are looking for in a game but most times I'd argue that everyone *defends* their purchase, wich is still dictated by their wallet.
If a Stern Pro would cost exactly as much as a Premium, who would still buy the Pro?
Who knows, we can't test that, can we?
When I got my Johnny Mnemonic, wich was supposed to be FULLY WORKING, the Hand did it's Job exactly one time, dieing nearly completely.
The switch was broken, the magnet couldn't hold up power and the metal assembly where the magnet is placed in was also broken.
The switch wasn't available anywhere at that time, the magnet only in one shop for 3 times the usual price and the metal bracket still nowhere to be found.
Luckily the game has an Option to switch the glove off, while not really change the gameplay with that.
So basically you're getting the Pro Version of the game.
I mean, the Hand is mostly for effect, altough there is a lot of strategy involved in the ball placement for invested players.
But physically despite the "magic" you only loose the physical ball lock and get a software one.
Oh I can imagine the chatter in my head if this would be a Stern Pro/ Premium thing.
So I played JM "Pro" for a while. And yes it still was a good game, would have been a great game even if the (now always up) drop target wouldn't send so many balls straight down the middle. (3 second ball save after hitting that target would be a solution for that.)
So eventually I repaired the whole thing. Got a new magnet, repaired the switch with an easy hack, 'kind of' repaired the bracket, got new X and Y nuts and steel rod... all the stuff.
So, most noticable difference:
The game suddenly got easier (and a bit deeper).
But more importantly the game got it's own distinct toy and flavor with that. It got completely unique and the mechanism doesn't cease to amaze me.
So, fast Forward to 2019, with most (not every) Stern:
Does the price increase justify the additional extras in the game?
"If you could not afford a Premium the Pro is still a good game."
It is, but you miss out it's uniquene magic.
(Remember, I written "most", not "every".)
I think that is why we see Munsters Pro Kind of crashing down now in peoples long-term opinions.
Not only because of code. Munsters Pro is a great shooting game, but it has nothing we haven't seen before or really stands out.
The full fledged mini playfield is unique. It makes the game deeper and easier (since you can't loose the ball while playing on it), so for me... just like my JM in some weird way.
And no, I myself have no clue why I wanted to write this.
Just lovin' the game. Tiny 2 - 3 pin collection with a lot of fluctuation, but this one is now in it's 3rd year.
And of course I always ask myself: Pro or Premium?
Not so sure about that anymore but never underestimate the "unique" power of a "not worth it?" mech.

Wouldn’t be the same game without the hand mech that’s for sure. The “pro” version sure seems valid these days. Lol.

#3285 1 year ago

Hi, relatively new JM owner here and I have a few questions:

1. My scoop bracket for Crazy Bob's is in 2 pieces. Is that normal, or is it originally tack welded? It seems to play fine while press fit, just a bit more play than I'm used to in a scoop. The manual diagram is less than clear, but since both pieces are part of #1 I suspect it shipped as a single piece.

Crazy Bob's

2. Like everybody, my left ramp cover plastic is destroyed: does anyone have a scan of the intact art? I'd like to try my hand at a home repair.

Thanks for any help.

Also, like many others in this thread I noticed there's no rubber diagram in the manual: I drew one up based on the rubber kit from Marco (matched what was already on the table when I bought it). I hope somebody finds it useful - let me know if you think there are any errors.

Johnny Mnemonic Rubber Diagram

2 weeks later
#3286 1 year ago

Since JM doesn't have flashers in the backbox that would require a translite layout to align to anything important, and since the translite is just so god-awful (and no good alternates seem to exist), I hacked together some materials I've collected to build the basis for what will soon become my personal replacement translite ....sort of a merge of computer generated and anime/cartoon style images, with the focus being on Johnny himself and the interaction with cyberspace. Still needs a lot of cleanup, sizing and layering, but here's the basic mock-up. Thoughts?

JM-Translite (BETA) (resized).jpg
#3287 1 year ago
Quoted from cmack750:

Since JM doesn't have flashers in the backbox that would require a translite layout to align to anything important, and since the translite is just so god-awful (and no good alternates seem to exist), I hacked together some materials I've collected to build the basis for what will soon become my personal replacement translite ....sort of a merge of computer generated and anime/cartoon style images, with the focus being on Johnny himself and the interaction with cyberspace. Still needs a lot of cleanup, sizing and layering, but here's the basic mock-up. Thoughts?
[quoted image]

I like the Translite. It's better than any JM movie poster and sticks closer to the books & Neuromancer (like the Tessier Ashpool Matrix Icon).

Yours is nice, but srsly the PSN logo?!

#3288 1 year ago
Quoted from DS_Nadine:

Yours is nice, but srsly the PSN logo?!

Lol....I hear you. Just so happened that the best pic I had to serve as a solid base for the design has that baked in. Maybe I can do something about that before final...

May also try the name a few different ways to better tie in to the cabinet art.

#3289 1 year ago

That’s a great translite. Are you able to produce more when you run it?

#3290 1 year ago

So I’ve been having some issues with the glove and decided to pull it apart and check all the connectors. This one has me a bit confused...the connector is impossible to take apart and has a blue/white and a dark blue wire going in one side and an orange and purple/white wire going in the other side. The blue wires haven’t been properly pinned, it looked like they’ve just been soldered in there. Can I just snip the wires and connect dark blue to orange and blue/white to purple/black?

7E81598C-CA7B-4173-B53D-1DF6177B5A0C (resized).jpeg
#3291 1 year ago
Quoted from dluth:

Can I just snip the wires and connect dark blue to orange and blue/white to purple/black?[quoted image]

Yes, that will work fine, solder and heatshrink sleeving would be better than the current bodge. Ideally, you would replace both sides of the connector but it's not necessary. Sort out that nasty white wire while you're at it.

#3292 1 year ago
Quoted from Johncare07:

That’s a great translite. Are you able to produce more when you run it?

Possibly. Since I am using images gathered from various sources to do this, it may have permission implications at that point, but is something I am investigating. If it's doable, and there is enough interest to make it worth the effort, I would definitely be interested in making it happen. JM is such a great machine but it's value and long-term collectability is held back (in my opinion) by a really weak art package. Anything to improve that helps everyone who wants to (or does) own it

4 weeks later
#3293 1 year ago

Anyone get the unintended super multiball?

My Trough Jam switch intermittently senses a jam for maybe 30 seconds or so, and starts shooting balls out like mad while in this state. It lasts about 30-60 seconds.

When I go into single switch test mode, it registers fine with no ball, and is activated by a ball when I test. But, I left it to help one of my kids for a few minutes and it started beeping like mad, registering a jam with no balls in the trough.Any ideas? It's intermittent, but usually works fine. Fuses are fine. Since it works, the trough optos are working.

This video has no balls in the machine and it stops detecting the trough jam with no interaction.

Added 12 months ago:

I just reseated everything, changed F114 fuse, and talked to it in Gilbert Gottfried's voice and it seems to be fine.

1 week later
#3294 1 year ago

I am searching for an original printed JM Instruction card. Anyone have one in good condition that they'd part with?

#3295 1 year ago

Would love to see what MODs all of us have done on JM. Share please.

#3296 1 year ago

I’ve just joined the club with a nice example. Has new decals and clearcoated playfield!
Are there any must have mods to have here? Mine has a blue led strip added above the backboard, not sure I’ll keep it there though

#3297 1 year ago

colorDMD is a must.

1 week later
#3298 1 year ago

Just joined the club. Machine seems to be I really good shape, just dirty as it sat far awhile. I have new Titian rubbers coming. When I get those Ill do a teardown and deep clean. Yesterday I did a quick clean, and wax. Only thing I am noticing is the ball diverter keeps engaging. It will do 3 or 4 pops in a row. Also the mylar by the pops is coming up. Is there any issues with removing it? I removed the mylar from my T2 without any problems. I have added all comet LEDs

11174[1183] (resized).jpeg
#3299 1 year ago

Ok so both diverters are acting up. They pulse when the poppers engage, either sling engages, and the spinner is engaged. Also the ball goes all the way around the left flipper every launch. The only code I have is a left lane switch.

#3300 1 year ago

There’s a bad diode or connection somewhere. It’s just time to start tracing and checking all your switches.
Does anyone have this plastic or can cut a single protector? (In the US )

image (resized).jpg
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