(Topic ID: 41272)

Johnny Mnemonic Owner's Club


By Phetishboy

5 years ago



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  • Latest reply 1 day ago by insx
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There are 3183 posts in this topic. You are on page 61 of 64.
#3001 7 months ago
Quoted from cynric:

Don't worry too much. From my experience with that shop their products are very often of less-than-optimal quality; regarding repro plastics I have no own experience but I've heard that they follow suit.. As you only need sling shot plastics they should not be too hard to get NOS, I've seen them quite often for sale in the German forums.
I'll take a look when I'm at my JM next, if I've got an extra set (not sure if I've bought one) I can offer that as a backup. A single letter to the States isn't that expensive..

Thanks for the help. Much appreciated!

#3002 7 months ago

I have some repro plastics from pinball refurbs, different shop, but probably similar quality plastics? I've heard they can crack faster than oem, but put those lexan washers or pinbits protectors to help protect them from cracking

#3003 7 months ago
Quoted from northvibe:

I have some repro plastics from pinball refurbs, different shop, but probably similar quality plastics? I've heard they can crack faster than oem, but put those lexan washers or pinbits protectors to help protect them from cracking

sorry. I bad context. I don't have JM plastics, or does retrorefurb, but I was just stating my experience so far with someone who is making replacements in europe.

#3004 7 months ago

Pair of NOS Slingshots, still with protective film, found. What a pain in the a$$.

All: because this process was so ridiculously annoying and it seems that locating plastics for this machine is near impossible, I reached out to Joe at Laseriffic about potentially being able to laser cut the most common 6 (or so) plastics that tend to get broken in JM to their exact original specs so that I could then just scan my pieces and use the NANDEMOGUY method to recreate them any time I want, based on scans of my originals. Definitely much cheaper that buying repro's international after shipping (even 1 piece).

He's on board with doing this. A set of the 6 or so of the 'common" clear plastics (which you'd then have to decal yourself) would probably run around 30 bucks.... Don't know exactly the price until I get him the scans. So I wanted to reach out to the JM community and gauge whether anyone else would have interest in getting their hands on these (ie: is it worth my time and would it benefit anyone else but me) and also to get input on WHICH plastics you believe would be the most important to include in this set. (the 2 Slingshots and the plastic at the top of the left ramp would be a must already... Looking for feedback about others)

#3005 7 months ago

Glad you found some! Didn't make it to my JM yet to look for them.
Regarding the plastic I've still got a full playfield plastic scan on my hard drive that someone posted on the german forum a few years back. Quality is decent and 600dpi. They would only need a slight touchup to remove scractes and rebuild minor paint defects. I can upload those somewhere if you like.
You would however probably have to supply your printer with at least one of your originals to get the colors right. I've had some south american repros where the colors would not match my machines at all, so there might be different print batches around from WMS..

#3006 6 months ago

Another question for you guys: Back when I got my JM I fitted it with some nice instruction cards, that I found somewhere. As they have started to fade and quality is mediocre anyway I wanted to have them reprinted on nice photo paper now. However I have lost the original file and I have no idea where I got it 5 years ago. The designer did not put his mark on there..
I've been searching for days now but I can not find them online either. Only thing I found were lots of cards in different designs (some neat, some just awful), but not the ones I have right now.
Has anybody here come across these cards or has them saved and could upload them for me please?

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#3007 6 months ago

Just picked up a JM for our location but the hand is starting to act up. I think one of the connectors on the driver board is bad because if I reseat it, it works for a game or two - then quits (often taking down the drop target up. Probably just going to replace it with trifurcons.

#3008 6 months ago

I am in the process of restoring my recently acquired JM. I am worried about the x-screw for the glove assembly.

The x-nut was stripped but when I thread it over the x-screw (after thoroughly cleaning both), it seems to be tighter at each end? I am hoping it isn't the x-screw as well as I cannot locate a source for this part (02-5206) - suppliers out of stock.

Am I being pinball-paranoid?? I just want to order a new one.......

I do have a new x-nut in the mail and I will report back once it arrives.

#3009 6 months ago
Quoted from lukex:

I am in the process of restoring my recently acquired JM. I am worried about the x-screw for the glove assembly.
The x-nut was stripped but when I thread it over the x-screw (after thoroughly cleaning both), it seems to be tighter at each end? I am hoping it isn't the x-screw as well as I cannot locate a source for this part (02-5206) - suppliers out of stock.
Am I being pinball-paranoid?? I just want to order a new one.......
I do have a new x-nut in the mail and I will report back once it arrives.

Highly unlikely you'd need to worry about the x screw, since the metal of the nut is made intentionally softer that the rod so I won't get chewed up.

Did you re-grease the rod after cleaning it? You should apply a very light coating of white lithium grease (or similar) to it after you've cleaned it. In addition, a very light application of machine oil should be applied to the brass bushings at either end of the rod before you insert it.

On a side note, since I'm rebuilding mine too, what size hex key did you use to remove the set screw in the spider coupler at the end of the rod, near the gear box? I don't have a hex key small enough.... Wanna make sure I get the right one.

#3010 6 months ago
Quoted from cmack750:

Highly unlikely you'd need to worry about the x screw, since the metal of the nut is made intentionally softer that the rod so I won't get chewed up.
Did you re-grease the rod after cleaning it? You should apply a very light coating of white lithium grease (or similar) to it after you've cleaned it. In addition, a very light application of machine oil should be applied to the brass bushings at either end of the rod before you insert it.
On a side note, since I'm rebuilding mine too, what size hex key did you use to remove the set screw in the spider coupler at the end of the rod, near the gear box? I don't have a hex key small enough.... Wanna make sure I get the right one.

The set screw..... great question. I also didn't have one small enough so I found that I could inch the hand to the right hand side (if the gloves are facing you) just enough to unscrew the whole x-nut and then it just had enough clearance.

A bit of a 'hack' but it worked fortunately and I didn't need to worry about stripping-out that tiny set screw either.

As far as the lube and the composition of the rod, thanks for the tips..... I will certainly rest easier once I get the whole thing back together.

#3011 6 months ago

Yeah..... I took apart WAY more than I had to on the Y nut/screw to get the nut out for cleaning because of that damn set screw. Once I get to the hardware store, I'll post back if I figure out the right size. Not a deal breaker for the screws/rods, but if you want to open and re-grease the gearboxes (like I am doing), the set screws have to be unscrewed. Fortunately, I've already removed one of the gearboxes with a coupler attached, so I can take it with me and make sure the size is right.

Don't sweat that x screw until you get your new nut. Remember that the old nut is chewed up, so the threads on it are all messed up anyway. Just make sure to grease the rod (VERY lightly) before you put the new nut on and it should go right on nice and smooth.... Plus the grease helps keep it from getting chewed up again later.

#3012 6 months ago

I just bought the new slingshot plastics from pinball.center. Luckily my best friend is living in Germany, so I just had them mail them to him and he is forwarding them on to me. But yeah, not easy to find slingshot plastics for this machine. I'll let you know the quality of them when I get them.

My translite is scratched to hell though and I don't know where to find a new one.

#3013 6 months ago
Quoted from enkiktd:

I just bought the new slingshot plastics from pinball.center. Luckily my best friend is living in Germany, so I just had them mail them to him and he is forwarding them on to me. But yeah, not easy to find slingshot plastics for this machine. I'll let you know the quality of them when I get them.
My translite is scratched to hell though and I don't know where to find a new one.

I seriously lucked out. By chance, I emailed the guys at Mayfair Amusements and they had a set of NOS, still with the plastic on them. $27 bucks WITH shipping. I must be livin' right.....

#3014 6 months ago
Quoted from cmack750:

Once I get to the hardware store, I'll post back if I figure out the right size..

For those that were eagerly awaiting my response on this (yes....i realize that is no one. But for posterity's sake):

The set screws used in the couplers attached to the x/y screws, in the couplers attached to the gearboxes, and in the opto-wheels on the opposite side of the gearboxes all used the same size hex key: 1/16 SAE (Non-Metric). You may "feel" that a 1.5mm seems to fit in the coupler set screws. But you'd be wrong.......trust me.

In my case, I injected a little penetrating oil in both cavities for each set screw for the couplers, waiting an hour, and they came right out. I'd recommend doing that before forcing it and potentially stripping your set screws: it's unlikely anyone has removed them for 20+ years and those babies are metal on metal.

If you ever want to clean your x/y screws and be able to oil the bushings effectively at the same time or take apart the gearbox for a rebuild/re-lube, you'll need one of these bad boys. I whopping 50 cents at my local Ace True Value Hardware Store.

#3015 6 months ago
Quoted from cynric:

Has anybody here come across these cards or has them saved and could upload them for me please?

I found them here: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/new-johnny-mnemonic-jm-custom-cards

#3016 6 months ago
Quoted from AlexSMendes:

Going thru my pinball stuff I came across a purple NOS agodfrey's JM speaker panel I can part away with...

Still available...

-1
#3017 6 months ago
Quoted from cmack750:

Pair of NOS Slingshots, still with protective film, found. What a pain in the a$$.
All: because this process was so ridiculously annoying and it seems that locating plastics for this machine is near impossible, I reached out to Joe at Laseriffic about potentially being able to laser cut the most common 6 (or so) plastics that tend to get broken in JM to their exact original specs so that I could then just scan my pieces and use the NANDEMOGUY method to recreate them any time I want, based on scans of my originals. Definitely much cheaper that buying repro's international after shipping (even 1 piece).
He's on board with doing this. A set of the 6 or so of the 'common" clear plastics (which you'd then have to decal yourself) would probably run around 30 bucks.... Don't know exactly the price until I get him the scans. So I wanted to reach out to the JM community and gauge whether anyone else would have interest in getting their hands on these (ie: is it worth my time and would it benefit anyone else but me) and also to get input on WHICH plastics you believe would be the most important to include in this set. (the 2 Slingshots and the plastic at the top of the left ramp would be a must already... Looking for feedback about others)

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#3018 6 months ago

Thank you, somehow that topic managed to slip past my search

#3019 6 months ago

Anyone know why the right sling flasher won't work. I assume it's a transistor. Anyone know which one needs replaced?

Also I have a switch sticking on the bottom right of tic tac toe, and suggestions there. Alcohol etc..

#3020 6 months ago

Shopped the Johnny I bought a few weeks ago. About 5 1/2 hours start to finish.

Stripped the play field
Replaced all rubbers (changed lowers to Titan blues)
Replaced all black star posts with blue
Added Cliffys to both ramps (really nice job Cliff)
Polished the play field with Meguiars #2 and then Mirror Glaze
Added Cyan LEDs to upper lanes
Replaced the broken spotlight shining on the hands
Replaced all GI lighting with Comet sunlights
Finally, added a coat of fresh wax

Looks and plays great!

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#3021 6 months ago

Wow. That's some nice work. Color scheme looks very clean.

#3022 6 months ago
Quoted from cmack750:

Wow. That's some nice work. Color scheme looks very clean.

Thx. Tried to keep it simple!

#3023 6 months ago

Anyone know where I can get a new left sling?

#3024 6 months ago

Oooh boy, back to the problems.
Repinned the offending connector but still am having no Y movement and no drop target down. Combing the manual to find where those two things have something in common.

#3025 6 months ago
Quoted from hank527:

Anyone know where I can get a new left sling?

I do, but as someone here said, shipping from South America is SO expensive!!!

#3026 6 months ago

Checked the connectors and all seem fine. I quick switched the j2 and j3 on here to see if I would get movement on the y only. I did. I’m guessing that cracked cap is causing problems. Anyone see any other obvious problems?

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#3027 6 months ago
Quoted from AlexSMendes:

I do, but as someone here said, shipping from South America is SO expensive!!!

How much is it to get it shipped to me?

#3028 6 months ago

Looking for a new set of JM plastics. Would love to track down some ramp decals also. I saw a very old post about a member making a set. Any leads?

#3029 6 months ago

Someone please PM me with source for the red "Johnny Mnemonic" cabinet decal strips. Just the red portion of the cabinet decals. Overlays. Mine are all faded and I don't want to do a complete re-decal on the game
Thx

#3030 6 months ago
Quoted from MT45:

Someone please PM me with source for the red "Johnny Mnemonic" cabinet decal strips. Just the red portion of the cabinet decals. Overlays. Mine are all faded and I don't want to do a complete re-decal on the game
Thx

Not sure if they are still being made? You could just trim a full set to suit if that's what you want to achieve?

#3031 6 months ago

I'd like decals and the matrix plastic. The ramps you can get, but the matrix plastic and decals you cannot

#3032 6 months ago
Quoted from hank527:

I'd like decals and the matrix plastic. The ramps you can get, but the matrix plastic and decals you cannot

Full cabinet decals?

#3033 6 months ago
Quoted from insx:

Full cabinet decals?

Ramp decals.

#3034 6 months ago

I've gone and done it again....

4 times!!!!! This will be the last time x___x ...

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/64595

#3035 6 months ago

If anyone has quick access to the backbox and can have a look and tell me on J208 you might have a single Green/Black (says Green-Blue in the guide) cable going into a connector at J208 let me know what displacement connector it's in if pin 1 is on the right and pin 9 on the right. Thanks!

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#3036 6 months ago

Minabluemerle got me hooked up thanks!

#3037 6 months ago

Anyone have a X-BRIDGE WPCHV installed? Mine only plugs into J604, and doesn't start up the DMD when installed, so I think I am missing something simple or installing it wrong. Or have the wrong board... IMG_6710 (resized).JPG

#3038 6 months ago

Stoked to be playing this again!

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#3039 6 months ago

Has anyone installed a WPC speaker panel in their JM? My original panel needs replacing and thought I’d replace it with a WPC chrome panel. This should be possible yeah?

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#3040 6 months ago
Quoted from Flynnyfalcon:

Has anyone installed a WPC speaker panel in their JM? My original panel needs replacing and thought I’d replace it with a WPC chrome panel. This should be possible yeah?

I fon't know but I asked that myself from time to time (since I prefer the looks).

Plz tell & show if you try it out.

2 weeks later
#3041 6 months ago

Added a home made Pinstadium kit over the weekend. Makes a massive difference to what is a pretty dark pin. Still working on best colour if any and brightness, but so far so good.

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1 week later
#3042 5 months ago

Anyone have a spare of the clear plastic that goes over the top of the right ramp they'd be willing to part with? It's the last broken plastic I need to replace. PM me if so.

#3043 5 months ago
Quoted from cmack750:

Anyone have a spare of the clear plastic that goes over the top of the right ramp they'd be willing to part with? It's the last broken plastic I need to replace. PM me if so.

If you get stuck, they have a bunch of other repro plastics there too

http://www.pinball.center/en/shop/pinball-parts/playfield-parts/plastics/9087/plastic-9-for-johnny-mnemonic?c=2101

#3044 5 months ago

Yet another random question.

I ordered a full clear plastic protector set from pinbits for JM. Matched up each piece to its corresponding plastic and ended up with one piece left. For the life of me, I can't figure out where this is supposed to go. Anyone have any thoughts? (it's clear...just haven't removed the film yet)

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#3045 5 months ago

(and yes, I reached out to the pinbits folks, but no response)

#3046 5 months ago
Quoted from cmack750:

Yet another random question.

I ordered a full clear plastic protector set from pinbits for JM. Matched up each piece to its corresponding plastic and ended up with one piece left. For the life of me, I can't figure out where this is supposed to go. Anyone have any thoughts? (it's clear...just haven't removed the film yet)

I couldn't find a suitable location for that piece either, so I didn't use it. I kept it, cut it up, and customized it for another purpose. I'll be interested if anyone can identify where it was supposed to go since I destroyed mine, LOL.

#3047 5 months ago
Quoted from cmack750:

Yet another random question.
I ordered a full clear plastic protector set from pinbits for JM. Matched up each piece to its corresponding plastic and ended up with one piece left. For the life of me, I can't figure out where this is supposed to go. Anyone have any thoughts? (it's clear...just haven't removed the film yet)

That piece doesn’t go on Johnny Mnemonic.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/johnny-mnemonic-is-there-an-owners-club-yet/page/54#post-3548543

#3048 5 months ago
Quoted from PinRob:

That piece doesn’t go on Johnny Mnemonic.

Nice info. Thanks!

#3049 5 months ago

Thank you! At least I know I'm not crazy.... Or missing a plastic I didn't know about.

That kit was all sort of crazy. They actually send me 2 of another piece as well by accident.. Guess I just have a bonus spare.....

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#3050 5 months ago

Since I'm in the process of rebuilding my JM, I decided today that I would remove and replace the factory mylar between the pop bumpers, since mine was peeling up in a couple spots. Because of the way that piece is made, you don't really see it at all, and I'd rather keep the playfield in the pops good forever. Thankfully, I managed to get the mylar up in only 3 pieces. This piece of mylar has a really distinct shape, and you can't get it anywhere.......so.....

I taped the pieces back together and used it as a template to cut my own from a 3mil sheet. It's pretty darn close to an exact replica. You can download a scan of it at https://www.dropbox.com/s/qbvti7xd8zvzhtv/Johnny%20Mnemonic%20Pop%20Bumper%20Area%20Mylar%20-%20Exact.jpg?dl=0 if you'd like a copy. Just print the image as actual size without margins/borders, cut it out, and you should have a template of your own.

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