Looked more at your pictures. Cant figure out why its so far over. the motor side looks good but the rod end should be over.
Looked more at your pictures. Cant figure out why its so far over. the motor side looks good but the rod end should be over.
This is kind of what I was thinking but for the life of me (those 2 parts being too far apart) I have no idea how this would have physically happened simultaneously to me causing a short. Maybe I'll try to take a photo later of what the assembly looks like from the top to see if that would possibly show me what is bent or out of place.
Just try pushing the coupling 'claws' back together. If you are lucky your bracket is just bent elastically and will go back into its original position once the tension is gone.. If not you will have to unmount it and bend it back into its original form.
My thoughts on how that happened: The rod runs at the top of the backboard just below the 'cable hole' in the cab. So maybe you grabbed the pin by the rod when moving when moving the machine, pulling it out of the coupling? The seller of my machine warned me to be careful there because fixing a bent rod is a hellufawork..
Quoted from VolunteerPin:Found the culprit I think. Any suggestions on how to easily (I hope) fix this? Is there a way to just remove the bracket in the one side and thread my x bolt back in or will I have to remove the whole thing and/get a new bolt and/or bracket?
image.jpg image.jpeg
If you want a "permanent" fix, and make sure it is done right, remove the assembly.
You will be hard pressed to "wiggle" the control screw rod into position properly on the brackets.
The rod still may be bent, because it is difficult to see.
Something either snagged or somebody grabbed the rod.
It remains the "Achilles heel" on this game, mostly because the hand gets abused.
When I got my Shadow, I made completely new rods for the mini playfield and screw tapped them, which is this case, should not be required.
Quoted from agodfrey:the only place that sells replacement couplings is Australia
These are standard misalignment couplings. RS or ondrives or any robot shop should have them.
http://www.ondrives.com/spider-couplings
There should be a small hex set screw on either side that is used to adjust the position of the couplers on the rods. Use a small (I can't remember how small, but it's pretty small) allen key to loosen one of them, move the couplers back together, and tighten it back down.
I got that issue working (see my thread on the subject) but now both upper flipper buttons are not working in game nor are they working when i do a switch test. I've messed with the magnet on the magnetic flipper board which is installed on the right but to no effect. Any thoughts?
Quoted from VolunteerPin:I got that issue working (see my thread on the subject) but now both upper flipper buttons are not working in game nor are they working when i do a switch test. I've messed with the magnet on the magnetic flipper board which is installed on the right but to no effect. Any thoughts?
check your board connectors may be lose or need re-pin
Quoted from agodfrey:All these couplings are more than £30.......maybe I am looking in the wrong place.....
I ordered these - a direct replacement for the couplings for JM.
Quoted from Pinterest:I ordered these - a direct replacement for the couplings for JM.
I take it the image is wrong and the part actually has four teeth? It doesn't look like the correct part.
that will replace the rubber in-between but the actual couplings, there are two sizes you need:
http://www.pinballspareparts.com.au/parts-by-machine/williams-parts/johnny-mnemonic/20-10279.html
http://www.pinballspareparts.com.au/parts-by-machine/williams-parts/johnny-mnemonic/20-10278.html
I'd love to find a domestic source for those. I have been thinking about offering a rebuild service or the whole back area. Got to find a good source for all the parts.
Quoted from Pinterest:I ordered these - a direct replacement for the couplings for JM.
amazon.com link »
For a basis here os what they are going for at Marcos:
Right hand $28
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-9425
Left hand $39
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-9424
Quoted from Law:I take it the image is wrong and the part actually has four teeth? It doesn't look like the correct part.
yes the picture is wrong - the part is right (and cheap).
Quoted from AlexSMendes:Does someone have a pair of used JM gloves that would be willing to sell? If so, please, PM me.... For a reasonable price I'd like to buy them!
Quoted from ALY:Just joined the JM club today...
Anyone can tell me what's the difference between 1.2 and 1.2R roms?
To my knowledge there is no such thing as a "v1.2" EPROM.
After 1995, WMS designation of U6 game roms used designation of R for regular, B for exports.
Sometimes it was not marked on the chip, but shows up on the checksum, hence some people say "v1.2".
If you want to know the full ROM history go here:
http://pinballrom.com/tech/roms/johnny.html
Keep in mind if you want to upgrade to v1.2R, you need to ensure you update ALL your sound roms, as they are not compatible from the original v1.0 code dependent on what is installed in your machine. Many machines were not updated at all, due to low production, and operator lack of interest.
Hello.
I am looking for the little "Diverter"
To the Left under the matrix.
I saw some in plastic? Please contact me if you know Where to get one.
Quoted from Tjohejsan:Hello.
I am looking for the little "Diverter"
To the Left under the matrix.
I saw some in plastic? Please contact me if you know Where to get one.
Mezelmods.com
Quoted from Tjohejsan:Hello.
I am looking for the little "Diverter"
To the Left under the matrix.
I saw some in plastic? Please contact me if you know Where to get one.
Quoted from Jgaltr56:Mezelmods.com
Someone did a clear plastic one. Mezels is 3D printed. Looks kinda off. You want the clear one. I may have an extra clear one or an extra metal one. I'll check.
Quoted from NinJaBooT:Mezels is 3D printed. Looks kinda off
I suppose, but it's black and I don't notice it. Does the job. A metal one would be nice, easy enough to make with some thin stainless or aluminum.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/johnny-mnemonic-is-there-an-owners-club-yet/page/39#post-2635248
ordered a clear plastic one it never showed up so i made my own diverter below the matrix.
Quoted from NinJaBooT:Someone did a clear plastic one. Mezels is 3D printed. Looks kinda off. You want the clear one. I may have an extra clear one or an extra metal one. I'll check.
Hello. If you have any extra either clear or the metal one ill buy it (:
This one the second game I owned and I loved it but sold it after a year, its coming back on Monday and I can't wait, I think a color DMD and some serious cosmetic loving and shes staying this time.
Quoted from Jgaltr56:I'm trying to find this left ramp cover plastic or make a new one. Anyone willing to share the art?
IMG_3035.jpg
I can scan it for you tomorrow
Quoted from Rec:I can scan it for you tomorrow
Agodfrey has me covered so please don't go to the trouble. Thank you, much appreciated.
Having an issue with my JM not booting. When I plug it in and start it, it seems to supply power to the GI and then restart itself. No sound codes anything else. Have pulled and verified my fuses, unseated and reseated every cable, still not having any luck.
Linked a video of the startup issue.
Thanks for any advice.
Quoted from Kevlar:How is the 5v reading?
5.14V at the Test point, 5.10V on pin32 of the ROM.
TP1 was showing 14.2V, Shouldn't it be 12V?
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