(Topic ID: 52680)

Johnny got a new suit!


By Astropin

6 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 83 posts
  • 42 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 years ago by robertg130
  • Topic is favorited by 10 Pinsiders

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There are 83 posts in this topic. You are on page 2 of 2.
#51 6 years ago

Here are some pics of my JM with partial side decals. I had to trim the top and bottom of the side decals to get them to line up perfect with the front. I used a regular sharpie on the top edge of the side decals so that they blended in "seamlessly" with the rest of the side. This was my first redecal job. I screwed up a couple times but nothing that couldn't be fixed and it certainly gave me the confidence to take on another one. Also appreciate the value now in buying a professionally restored pin.

#52 6 years ago

pics

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#53 6 years ago

couple more

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#54 6 years ago

Looking good! I'll post pics of mine when I finish (hopefully this weekend).

#55 6 years ago

Nice work! Did you overlap the new bottom with the old top at all?

Also, what sort of paint have you guys been using on the raw cabinet besides a primer? Maybe a dumb question...but spray paint, latex, etc.?

#56 6 years ago

I didn't really overlap. Essentially was able to butt the bottom decal up to the edge. It was actually easier than it sounds as long as you use a straight edge to remove the old decal.

Suggest using a black spray primer like Rustoleum 2x and then a semi-gloss spray on the edges. The spray primer will create a much smother surface than normal paint. It's hard to get an even finish with semi or gloss on a large area, but covering the edges should be no problem.

My decals came with a mask on the front. Be careful not to rub too hard, especially after removing the mask. The red ink will come off - I found out the hard way. Suggest using a felt covered or rubber squeegee when the mask is on and only a micro cloth after you remove. If there are some air bubbles, I'd just pop with a pin and give it a day. The decals really pull down by themselves.

#57 6 years ago

OK, mine have been ordered! So, more questions...

Quoted from luckymoey:

It was actually easier than it sounds as long as you use a straight edge to remove the old decal.

What did you use for a straight edge?

Quoted from luckymoey:

I screwed up a couple times but nothing that couldn't be fixed and it certainly gave me the confidence to take on another one.

What mistakes did you make so the rest of us can avoid them? I'm imagining putting on those giant stickers and it's got to be a little nerve wracking...

Thanks for the info and pictures!

#58 6 years ago

This might help - different ways to do it. I think the dry way is OK.

http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/time-to-redecal-a-cabinet#post-1054742

#59 6 years ago

My main mistake was rubbing the decal too hard with a felt covered squeegee after the decal mask was off. This took a little of the red ink off that had to be touched up with a paint pen. The decals also had some creases from being rolled. Let them lay out with the playfield glass or something else to flatten them for a day or two.

I also would use a straight edge to trim the decal after it is on rather than the cabinet edge. If you get the cabinet edge just right with a nice bevel than it's probably better but a straight edge is safer if you're not a pro. I bought a 5 ft straightedge from Home Depot and used clamps to hold it in place.

The top of my side decals needed to be cut before application to line up right with the front and the original look of the machine. Take your time laying out the decals on your machine before starting to apply. I used the wet method to apply and can't imagine why you would do dry - especially your first time. Just make sure not to let the liquid drip onto the bottom of the cabinet.

Like everyone says, applying the decals is the easy part if you've put in the days of prep. Good luck.

#60 6 years ago
Quoted from Astropin:

Full front and backbox, partial sides.

For some reason my set came with a partial front (just the bottom). Bummer.

#61 6 years ago
Quoted from PinRob:

This might help - different ways to do it. I think the dry way is OK.
http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/time-to-redecal-a-cabinet#post-1054742

Quoted from luckymoey:

My main mistake was rubbing the decal too hard with a felt covered squeegee after the decal mask was off.

Thanks for the advice and link guys. I hadn't heard of the wet method before this, so I will check out the video

Quoted from swampfire:

For some reason my set came with a partial front (just the bottom). Bummer.

Ack. I hope mine doesn't. I need the full front.

#62 6 years ago
Quoted from swampfire:

For some reason my set came with a partial front (just the bottom). Bummer.

That's odd. I definitely got a full front (as evidenced by my pictures).

Everyone better clarify what you are getting before ordering......I guess.

#63 6 years ago

Yeah, mine came with the game so I have no idea who made them. I really wish full decals were available.

#64 6 years ago

OK guys, (another) redecaling noob question for you.

I've got JM taken apart, took the old rails off today, and I'm getting ready to start sanding, starting with the backbox.

When I look at my cabinet and backbox it really looks like it is all silkscreened, not decaled. I can't find any edges and the damaged areas are similar to what you might see on an older silkscreened skateboard (layer of white before the black and colors). Is this what you guys have seen on your JMs? I ask because it seems like it would make partially stripping the sides down to wood like luckymoey did, which was the way I planned to do it too, difficult. I thought I was going to be peeling old decals off with the heat gun, but... maybe I'm wrong?

#65 6 years ago

There are only a few late 90's Williams machines made with true decals (MB, CC). There is a post here or somewhere else, can't remember, that describes the different methods used over the years. For JM, they put down a layer of white vinyl that comes up like a decal and then I think silk screened over it. It will not peel off, but with a heat gun will bubble and scrap off pretty easy. You will need to use goo gone to get the adhesive off like a true decal. You should try the back box or front first to get a feel for it.

With a straight edge tightly clamped to the sides and being careful not to use too much heat near it, you can get a clean line. I don't know the long-term risk of installing new decals over the old. Astropin's machine looks great so initially it isn't a problem and personally I doubt it will every be. Wouldn't chance for a high-end renovation but on JM you may not want to bother with stripping the sides and just sand. I'm a glutton for punishment and was confident it wouldn't be a problem after testing a small area.

#66 6 years ago

Gotcha, thanks for the info. When I took the rails off it seemed like the paint is somewhat fragile. Stripping a perfect line to match the edge of the decal seems like it would be tough. I will practice trying to peel up a straight line on the front before I try it on the sides. If it doesn't seem like I can do it, I'll just do the sides without stripping all the way to wood.

It seems like JM is a perfect cabinet to practice this stuff on. I wouldn't want to be trying this stuff for the first time on a expensive machine...

1 week later
#67 6 years ago

I'm finally getting around to this project, and so far, so good. First backbox sticker went on OK using the wet method, but I should have done one final sanding and cleaning of the surface (you really can see every fricking speck of dust when you get the sticker on). Second one went on much better after I did that and looks great. Amazing how much better the red looks. I used the semi-gloss black Rustoleum on the backbox and it was a pretty close match, though very hard to get an even look, as some have said.

I still don't know if I'm going to try and strip down the sides or just decal over the existing. Next up is the coindoor so I'll practice on that.

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#68 6 years ago

Uffda! your coin door side looks like mine. The head sides look good!

#69 6 years ago

Wow, that looks fantastic. Great timing for me as well, since I just picked up a JM and as expected the front is badly faded and the backbox sides are scratched up and chipped. Can someone PM me where the decals can be picked up?

#70 6 years ago

I am getting a JM this week. Can someone pm me too to let me know where to get a set of decals?

2 weeks later
#71 6 years ago

Finally: the happy day when I can say my Johnny has a new suit too. I have to say, it was a lot of work and I will think twice about redecaling another cab. It would definitely have been easier if the sides were full and not partials. I ended up sanding down to wood as close as I could to the midline. It worked pretty well. If you look really closely you can see a slight bump along the edge but most people would never notice it. Also, I thought I had the front and sides lined up but I ended up having to trim some areas as well as cut black strips from the bottom of the sides. I thought that I'd applied the front too high up because the lettering was close to the coinbox, but when I checked, that's how it was originally. Don't line the front up off the top of the cab would be my advice.

I took apart the gearboxes to clean them and it wasn't as hard as I thought it would be - definitely a good time to do it with the playfield out. I also learned the hard way that if you replace lights in the matrix you should check them before you put it all back together. You can, if need be, remove just the matrix from the playfield while it's in the cabinet, however, but ug...

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#72 6 years ago

OP,

If you could keep only one machine of JM, WC94 or HS2 what would it be (and why)? They really are the perfect example of budget machines by Richie, Gomez and Popaduik. I actually think those three machines make a great line-up for that reason. You can't get a much better bang for your buck.

PS: Great idea for updating the faded red on the JM.

#73 6 years ago
Quoted from canea:

I also learned the hard way that if you replace lights in the matrix you should check them before you put it all back together. You can, if need be, remove just the matrix from the playfield while it's in the cabinet, however, but ug...

One of the lights on my Matrix is out and I plan on replacing all the bulbs with LEDs. Is it hard to remove while the playfield is in the cabinet? Any tips or pointers so I don't do any unnecessary work to get to them would be great

#74 6 years ago
Quoted from mwong168:

One of the lights on my Matrix is out and I plan on replacing all the bulbs with LEDs. Is it hard to remove while the playfield is in the cabinet?

I replaced mine with LEDs, but they were so finicky it was tough to get them all working. I gave up eventually and left an incandescent in one of the slots.

It's not that hard to take the matrix out from the top, just a hassle. You have to take the center ramp out first. From the back there are two nuts to take off, and then you need to unplug the two connectors attached to the matrix and one connecter down below on the coil that lifts the matrix. You don't need to take anything off the lifting lever mechanism - and if you do, don't overtighten those nuts because then the matrix won't be able to move up and down (also found this out the hard way)!

#75 6 years ago
Quoted from lpeters82:

OP,
If you could keep only one machine of JM, WC94 or HS2 what would it be (and why)? They really are the perfect example of budget machines by Richie, Gomez and Popaduik. I actually think those three machines make a great line-up for that reason. You can't get a much better bang for your buck.
PS: Great idea for updating the faded red on the JM.

I have all three and can't honestly say which one is the best. Depends on the day....all three are great and all are very different. It's a great bargin trifecta!

#76 6 years ago

I ended up selling my Johnny Mnemonic. The reason I decided to sell is that I found myself playing Johnny Mnemonic in a similar style as Fish Tales, which was my only other game. Shoot alternating ramp shots then hit the spinner. Obviously you could also play though the modes too, but I think there are machines with much better modes. Although few, if any, with any endgame as good as Power Down. I'd own one again, but would rather find a World Cup Soccer or High Speed 2: The Getaway.

#77 6 years ago
Quoted from canea:

I replaced mine with LEDs, but they were so finicky it was tough to get them all working. I gave up eventually and left an incandescent in one of the slots.
It's not that hard to take the matrix out from the top, just a hassle. You have to take the center ramp out first. From the back there are two nuts to take off, and then you need to unplug the two connectors attached to the matrix and one connecter down below on the coil that lifts the matrix. You don't need to take anything off the lifting lever mechanism - and if you do, don't overtighten those nuts because then the matrix won't be able to move up and down (also found this out the hard way)!

Thank you, very helpful!

1 month later
#78 6 years ago

Could anyone who knows where to get these decals pm the info to me?

1 year later
#79 5 years ago
Quoted from troyboy:

Could anyone who knows where to get these decals pm the info to me?

Sure ,,,,,,,,,,, I know where 2 get them ,,

1 month later
#80 4 years ago

Ok - so my T2 is tore down in the midst of restoration and I've been jonesing to play pinball - so I picked up a "new" JM last weekend. Really cool thing is that I met some great guys in the area into the hobby.

The hand was broken, it had no back box key, some lights were out, and it was dirty - but it cleaned up beautifully, the boards look new, the hand turned out to be only a loose wire, and it already had LEDs in the inserts - so I'm really enjoying it.

As you can see I am in desperate need cabinet decals so any guidance on where these might be available would be appreciated.

Thanks!

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3 months later
#81 4 years ago

I am with Pinterest, don't have the time to recreate. If you have a set for sale please PM me. Thanks!

#82 4 years ago

I found a full set a while back with a quick google I think. Came from overseas somewhere but is a real nice print.

2 months later
#83 4 years ago

Beautiful work guys,here is mine pin
First part:

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There are 83 posts in this topic. You are on page 2 of 2.

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