I’m excited to work with API and their customers!
As a community member, I know how valuable these club threads can be for information.
I’ll be getting up to speed with the company and the games over the next several weeks and will be reading the threads to see where I can help.
If you need an answer from API directly; [email protected] or 833 API HELP

My suggestion is to leave the pop bumper coil settings at factory. If you want more action out of them; here's what I do to all my games:
Use a switch adjustment tool on each pop bumper switch to decrease the gap so the contacts are almost touching.
Also, the "spoon" where the pop bumper skirt point touches: Make sure that leaf of the switch only has enough tension just to touch the point. Too much tension between the point of the skirt and the spoon causes drag and less action.

Once you have them all adjusted, put the playfield back down and start a game. Now with a soft part of a fist, pound a few times in the middle of the playfield. The objective here is to see if that gap is too close where vibrations will set off the pops.
You can also manually touch each pop skirt and see if the vibration causes the other pops to fire. They should not.

Hope that helps.

I'm still on top of it, SR-6379. It's an individual part within a power supply. We needed to order this from our supplier, and expect it to arrive this week. As soon as it does, i'll have a tracking number for the shipment to you.

For the future, please contact me directly on my API email for status updates. It can be difficult to cross reference a pinside name with your actual name and Service Request number.

Sorries and excuses don't get your game running. It's my fault for not making sure a tracking number was issued to you prior to me going camping this past week. When I saw the for sale ad, I knew I/API messed up bad. I will do better in the future. I'm still learning what levers I can pull and buttons to push to make this service ship go faster and be more efficient.

Give it a try. It’s cheap enough.
I know people plug external subs directly into the amp using the rca plugs.

Try bending out the guide to the lock entry a bit.

I’m on it.
Read my email, then we can walk through some tests over the phone if you want.

Does the scoop fire consistently when you first start playing the cold game, then progressively gets worse as you play?

Are you getting a solid 48v off the power supply? (Brown and Black wires)

I’m working on this now. I should have parts in this week to make a mock-up. I’ll get a kit posted to the API store soon.

Yes. I already completed an installation video. Parts are on order to make them.

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For those that where looking for an extra Otto head to customize, we now have unpainted (and painted) heads posted on the API webstore: https://store.american-pinball.com/products/oktoberfest-otto-head-toy0012-00?variant=39269048025186

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I made this video to help owners troubleshoot lock switches and show how shiny chrome balls can cause trough problems on games with magnets.

The captive ball is held with a nylon nut under the playfield. Extracting the broken one should not be difficult, but you’ll need to remove parts to install the new one.

Start by pulling up on the Otto head. He’s just held with magnets.
From there remove the screws holding the bar molding, slide forward under the wireform. Same goes for the bar base.

From there, you can access fasteners to the plastic below. Take pics as you go for reference.

As for the opto. There’s two 1/4” head screws to remove. The coaster opto is plug H on the board just above it.

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For the rollover: review the wire that actuates the micro switch. With a switch adjustment tool, you can gently bend this down some more so the wire requires less push from the ball to actuate the switch.

Topper lighting: we have the parts for kits; just need to assemble and get them listed on the API store.

It's a longer coil stop that reduces the flipper bat travel and makes the barrel shot easier.
https://store.american-pinball.com/products/coil-stop-oktoberfest
Regardless if you have an original coil stop or extended, you'll need to practice the shot. I recommend placing the ball in the right orbit and shooting the shot several times. If you hit it square, the ball should have plenty of power to get up there. You can adjust the coil strength setting up a little if a clean shot doesn't get all the way up. Remember, 6 degree pitch is recommended.

To find out which coil stop you have, hold the right flipper button and review the tip of the flipper in relation to the playfield art. If the flipper tip is on the woman's head, you have the extended coil stop already installed. If it's above her head, you have the original coil stop.
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topper lighting kit
https://store.american-pinball.com/products/topper-lighting-kit

Need a couple things you've had your eye on? Topper light perhaps

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