(Topic ID: 49623)

JM Johnny Mnemonic hand motor noisy


By lavmech1

6 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 82 posts
  • 32 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 65 days ago by 27dnast
  • Topic is favorited by 20 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

There have been 11 images uploaded to this topic. (View topic image gallery).

image.jpg
20-10280.jpg
20-10279.jpg
ballinhand.jpg
20130513_232256.jpg
e-clips-of-death.jpg
IMG_0714.JPG
IMG_0713.JPG
IMG_0712.JPG
image.jpg
JM_gearbox.jpg

There are 82 posts in this topic. You are on page 2 of 2.
#51 6 years ago
Quoted from robm:

I've had two JMs, one never had the switch, the other worked intermittently, so i removed it and have never had a problem since - unless the credit dot really annoys you!

Oh.. That's good to know.

I could care less about the credit dot personally, but it nags on me due to other pinball people possibly commenting on it. I'm going to completely tear down my JM here soon to do new CAB decals, so I might go 30 bucks in on a new switch when I do while I rebuild the glove mechanics.

Thanks for the info.

#52 6 years ago

I cleaned and lubed my gearbox when I owned JM and it didn't help. I had to replace the x and y nuts to quiet mine down.

#53 6 years ago

Thanks for this thread. Lots of great information here. Subscribing for reference in the future!

Chris

#54 6 years ago

Oh man. I think I am beginning to see why I was confused. I think I DO have a ball in hand switch, it was just moved and attached below the left side of the x screw (see pic). It wasn't hooked up when I got it and I thought a) that's weird that that switch is so close to that screw and b) seems like the wires running over to it are a little short. I hooked it up because when the glove was in the home position it closed the switch and when it was moving, it opened the switch. I figured it was some kind of "home" position switch. It's even bent to cause this action to occur. This is why I get a "ball in hand switch stuck closed" error, but not a credit dot.

So, this switch is supposed to be INSIDE the glove/magnet I'm gathering.

I guess one option to eliminate any problems AND the credit dot would be to leave this wired up but put it somewhere in the cabinet where nothing is touching it. Or is that a bad idea?

ballinhand.jpg

#55 6 years ago
Quoted from canea:

I guess one option to eliminate any problems AND the credit dot would be to leave this wired up but put it somewhere in the cabinet where nothing is touching it. Or is that a bad idea?

Technically speaking that wouldn't eliminate the credit dot because that switch still wouldn't get "activated" and after the 20 games or whatever of not hitting that switch it will throw an error anyways. I love JM and hate the BS price of the $29 ball in hand switch but if you throw in some x and y nuts and a bit of lube e.t.c. it's like a total hand-rebuild kit for ~$50

Someone had PM'd me so I also wanted to post here the link to where I got the spider coupler however it looks like it's showing out-of-stock now. (Crap, I hope I get the ones I ordered 2 days ago?)

Part #20-10280 (Spider Coupler / Coupling)
http://www.bestofpinball.de/catalog/product_info.php/products_id/5299

I also found a thread on RGP where some substitutes have been found:
http://rgparchive.com/rgpforum/showthread.php?t=180457

Post edited by fattrain : Added More Links and Part #'s

#56 6 years ago

Yup, that's the place I thought you got them from. Damm, anyone know where to get these spider coupler's? I need one at the least for MN_Hotrods JM, thanks everyone!!

#57 6 years ago
Quoted from fattrain:

Technically speaking that wouldn't eliminate the credit dot because that switch still wouldn't get "activated" and after the 20 games or whatever of not hitting that switch it will throw an error anyways.

I bent the switch back out and put it back into the hand to see what it would do, and its working fine (same as before, actually). Strangely, I did get a credit dot for a couple games and then it went away. Huh.

Yeah, a glove rebuild kit would definitely sell I think!

#58 6 years ago

Williams#| LoveJoy Part# | Motion Industries PN

20-10279 | 1 00520 K 90104 | (L-035 X 1/4 NO KEYWY HUB)
20-10280 | 2 00520 K 90702 | (L-035 SOX SPIDER)

- - - - - - - -

I hopped on LoveJoy's site and found a distributor in Sacramento!
(and it just so happens to be "motion industries")

I'm gonna see if I can check em' out today and get this shit local!

Here's the link for finding a lovejoy distrbutor close to you:
http://www.lovejoy-inc.com/Distributors.aspx

We'll crack these damn JM Glove Issues wide open!!!
20-10279.jpg 20-10280.jpg

#59 6 years ago

They didn't have it in stock but we were able to get it ordered from southern california!

I'll have it in two days!

$3.13 per coupler
$1.52 per rubber spider

(Part #'s in the post above)

I bought 4 couplers and 2 rubber spiders so I have spares.
It was ~$25 shipped and I'll have it in TWO DAYS!

If anyone else would like to order then just give this guy a call

916-455-1990 - Nelson @ Motion Industries (Sacramento, CA)

#60 6 years ago

Just ordered four of the spiders and four of the couplers from Motion Industries in Eden Prairie. They are drop shipping from their distribution center in Chicago. Should be same are less than costs posted above.

Thank you Fattrain for the info!!

#61 6 years ago

For the cheap folks out there: (Like me!)

If I remember right, ONE of the nuts (Y-nut I think) only has to be turned 180 degrees, and doesn't need to be re-purchased. Whatever nut it is that carries the majority of the weight on its threads.

#62 6 years ago
Quoted from dsuperbee:

For the cheap folks out there: (Like me!)
If I remember right, ONE of the nuts (Y-nut I think) only has to be turned 180 degrees, and doesn't need to be re-purchased. Whatever nut it is that carries the majority of the weight on its threads.

If I'm ripping this whole damn thing apart and cleaning it I'm gonna spend the extra $5-$10 and get new parts.... This something I only feel like doing once every 5 years than multiple times cuz another parts eats shit :-p

And that should mean a lot coming from me (I'm cheap as hell!)

#63 6 years ago
Quoted from fattrain:

If I'm ripping this whole damn thing apart and cleaning it I'm gonna spend the extra $5-$10 and get new parts.... This something I only feel like doing once every 5 years than multiple times cuz another parts eats shit :-p
And that should mean a lot coming from me (I'm cheap as hell!)

Those nuts used to be hard to come by (like when I had my JM)

In a home environment, flipping the nut will be fine. The mech rides on the top side of the nut, while the other side bears little weight.

BTW....I think I may have an old guide I used when I worked on mine. Let me dig around a couple of old hard drives and see if I saved it. Very likely I erased it after I sold my JM, but it may be hidden somewhere

#64 6 years ago
Quoted from dsuperbee:

For the cheap folks out there: (Like me!)
If I remember right, ONE of the nuts (Y-nut I think) only has to be turned 180 degrees, and doesn't need to be re-purchased. Whatever nut it is that carries the majority of the weight on its threads.

The "Y" nut is the one used for the small rod that moves the glove forward and backward.

The "X" nut is the bigger one, used on the larger rod in the back that moves the glove left and right.

#65 6 years ago
Quoted from RobT:

The "Y" nut is the one used for the small rod that moves the glove forward and backward.
The "X" nut is the bigger one, used on the larger rod in the back that moves the glove left and right.

X nut then! Thank you. I haven't had my jm for years, but I had that glove out more times than I care to think about

#66 6 years ago

So when I placed my order the guy told me that he would get me a substitute brand since a bunch of companies started making these after the patent ran out....

He had to do 2 different shipments so the couplers come tomorrow but I got my spiders today and they seem to be a perfect fit

So I guess here's another manufacturer and compatible part...

image.jpg

#67 6 years ago

Thanks for all the spider coupler info. I keep meaning to check mine.

After several days of monkeying with it, I FINALLY got my ball in hand switch set up correctly and got rid of the credit dot. That thing is super fussy. I don't know how long it will last, but I'm happy to have it error free at least for a little while...

Also, I got the ball going so fast today on the loops that when it came back at the flippers it went airborne and sailed over the left ramp and into the gutter!

Post edited by canea : flippers...not bumpers! yeesh

#68 6 years ago
Quoted from canea:

Also, I got the ball going so fast today on the loops that when it came back at the bumpers it went airborne and sailed over the left ramp and into the gutter!

I'm amazed there isn't always a lot of stuff broken on this game due to the sheer speed of the ball. I've had a lot of air-balls all over the place at times....

#69 6 years ago

Just an update that I did in fact receive my package from Germany with couplers and it only took about 10 days so order from that original site with confidence as well.

#70 6 years ago
Quoted from canea:

Those things are truly, truly awful.
Is there a "correct" way to remove them? A tool or something? Every time I deal with them, I almost break something or cut myself.

This tool works good for both removing and installing them, lost a ton of those dam things before I found this tool. Snap on or mac tools sells a removal tool that looks like one of those tools you use to get stuff out of your sink drain that you dropped by accident, but it only removes the clips, the tool in the link also installs them, plus it works on more then just one size.

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_info.php/cPath/89_1600_1601/products_id/216122/n/DuraTrax-Ultimate-E-Clip-Tool?utm_source=Google-Base&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Product-Feeds&source=google_ext&gclid=CJvYiJ3hsLcCFYKd4AoddG4AqA

1 week later
#71 6 years ago

I just took a crack at this, this week. The regreasing and oil part, anyhow. Seems like some motion at the end of the glove range improved but it sounds like I need to replace the X nut and maybe the Y nut.

I didn't need a specialty tool to remove the E clips. Just used my fingernails, well, my thumbnails.. I put a cardboard box under the whole assembly and pushed down onto the two prongs of the E clip with both thumbs. For putting the E clip back on, I used a needlenose pliers.

I'd let it sit for a few hours to check if oil leaks out of the motor assembly after you're done.
If you opt to take the shaft off of the motor, you'll need a T6 torx bit to remove the coupling body. didn't see that mentioned anywhere.

I couldn't help but notice that my Y coupler had a gap between the coupling body and the spider of about 1cm, and I didn't see any impediments that would cause it to not have complete contact like on the X coupler. not sure if that's normal.

I also took a bunch of photos, in case they were useful in the future.

3 weeks later
#72 6 years ago

aargh, this thing again. I replaced the X nut. I noticed in the old one that the threads look torn up. When the glove is going back to its home, about half way or 3/4 of the way, it still squeals, like the gears get stuck and the motor is working extra hard for some reason. It's just moving in the X direction, so now I have to think that there's something about the gear assembly that is bad.

8 months later
#73 5 years ago

Great post, I was able to quit my motors tonight.
Waldo

#74 5 years ago

Mine are a little noisy,but nothing to worry about just yet. just wondering the procedure of pulling the whole assembly out. do you have to remove the playfield ?

2 months later
#75 5 years ago
Quoted from karmalord:

Mine are a little noisy,but nothing to worry about just yet. just wondering the procedure of pulling the whole assembly out. do you have to remove the playfield ?

Nope, it's quite easy to remove the assembly. I wrote up a guide:

http://quinndunki.com/blondihacks/?p=1615

4 months later
#76 4 years ago
Quoted from blondie7575:

Nope, it's quite easy to remove the assembly. I wrote up a guide:
http://quinndunki.com/blondihacks/?p=1615

Well I thought it was the Y nut but it is actually the motor. Looks like I'll be looking at this to tear it apart. Any more tips? Disconnect all the wires and nuts, pull apart?

1 week later
#77 4 years ago

done!

I would suggest anyone with a JM to check/lube the 2 gear boxes. Man the hand is soooo quiet now.

#78 4 years ago
Quoted from northvibe:

done!
I would suggest anyone with a JM to check/lube the 2 gear boxes. Man the hand is soooo quiet now.

So how long did it take you?

#79 4 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

So how long did it take you?

2 hours. It was my first time and I had one hell of a time pulling it out. No room, so I took the mirror blades out and had to fuss. Pretty much just took some strength and it came out. Then disassembly of the motor area. I left the ends on the shaft, just unscrewed the gear box, rotated the back plate and poked my finger in with lube. I didn't want to pull roll pins etc, spun the gears so lube was on all of it and put it back together.

1 week later
#80 4 years ago

Yah, the gear boxes tend to fling all the grease off the gears over time, and then they're running dry. That makes the system noisy, and it's hard on the motors. The hand should be smooth and quiet (ish). Luckily, it's very easy to service them.

1 month later
#81 4 years ago

I tried replacing my ball in hand switch and two strange things kept happening:

1) with the game off but plugged in I would get a little painful "shock" if I was touching the magnet and resting my forearms on the cabinet siderails. It felt like there was a little metal burr or something that was poking my forearms. It was some sort of electrical current.

2) the magnet would work fine once or twice but then it would short out, sparks and all, when the ball hit the switch, causing th game to reset. I removed the switch. Problem solved I guess.

4 years later
#82 65 days ago

Digging up this old thread. My glove was having difficulty making it across the back of the playfield... would start out fine, then come to a grinding halt.

Using some of the good advice, here, I pulled the back mechanism and threw it on the work bench. Ended up opening the X axis motor. It was full of old nasty guck (just like post 7). Cleaned it all up with rubbing alcohol (using q-tips and paper towels). Then added some machine oil. Got'er all back together and re-installed. Glove works 100% smooth and flawless.

Getting the entire back mech out is easy. Just requires some connectors , removing nuts (under playfield) and removing a few nuts/screws on right and left side plastics (along with 2 nuts on the right upper ramp).

Thanks, Pinsiders, for all the great info!

Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
2,950
Machine - For Sale
Columbia Station, OH
From: $ 40.00
Cabinet - Other
Rock Custom Pinball
$ 219.99
From: $ 16.95
From: $ 22.00
From: $ 9.99
Eproms
Matt's Basement Arcade
There are 82 posts in this topic. You are on page 2 of 2.

Hey there! Got a moment?

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run thanks to donations from our visitors? Please donate to Pinside, support the site and get anext to your username to show for it! Donate to Pinside