Hi, I've been trying to troubleshoot this in the JM thread but am bringing it to its own topic in hope of assistance. Warning - this is my first real work inside a machine.

Have the error in the title and was using this as a guide: http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#Check_fuses_F114_and_F115_message I complete steps 1-11 and it all passes. I tried step 1 after these steps and get fluctuations from 1 to around 3. Not sure if this is good because there is activity, or bad because it's not the right activity.

I have reseated all ribbon cables, all connectors basically on the power board and sound board. I replaced fuses F115 and F116. All of the LEDs on the power board are on and all TPs come back with the correct voltage. The opto board under the playfield has an LED light that is on, and I have reseated all connections.

There are other errors. Upon startup, the drop target fires quite a few times, and I hear the hand clicking. There are errors for both of these when entering the test menu. These are both related to J107, and I am getting the correct voltage from those pins. I'm unsure if these errors are related to the fuse issue.

I have gone off of a lot of these Check F115 F116 threads that I could find on all forums, but the big difference between them and mine is that all of my board LEDs are working and none of my fuses appear to be blown. I have also tested the fuse holders for F115 and F116 and it all appears normal.

Does anyone have an idea where to go from here? Thanks

I don't know if it helps, but in the switch edge test, some switches work and some don't.

I was wrong, TP7 is not getting the correct voltage. Looking into it.

Nevermind. Still learning the DMM.

It worked before transporting. It's possible I might have hooked it up yesterday missing a connector or two, but have not been working with the power on. If something was damaged, I was just looking for a point in the right direction to test it.

All test points are correct. J112 J116 J117 & J118 are correct.

I only checked F115 and F116 out of holders. Should I do them all separately or at the same time?

Ribbon cables are correct.

I was just reading a guide and this is stated: Test for AC voltage at J101 pins 4 and 7 (or J129 pins 4 and 7 on WPC-95). A reading of 13 to 18 volts AC should be seen. This is the AC voltage coming from the
transformer. If no voltage here, check the Molex connectors around the transformer and at the power driver board.

I think this means continuity testing, or buzz. I also assume this means testing 4 and 5 together and 6 and 7 together. When I do this with the continuity setting, it flashes a high number and falls back down to 0. I'd guess that means that there's an issue with the transformer, but all connections seem tight. So tight in fact, I can't take them apart by hand.

Does this mean anything to you?

Last question for the night. When I test a fuse holder with the fuse out, what should I be seeing? Should it be the desired voltage on one side and a smaller voltage on the other, or should it be the desired voltage on both sides?

For example, should F115 read 12V on the right and around 1-3V on the left, or should it read 12V on both sides?

I appreciate all the help, but I've been at this for 7 hours straight for the second night in a row. Have to pick it back up tomorrow.

Thanks again

That makes sense. I was thinking at first that the fuse completes the circuit, but it sounds like the circuit should already be there and the fuse is just a safety between the circuit?

I'll have to check this when I get home.

I have a cheap DMM that doesn't actually make a tone. Is there a specific number I should be looking for?

I can't give you all of them at the moment, but I can tell you that the switches in the coin door are seen, if I hold a flipper up it registers, but pushing the inlanes and outlanes down, for example, doesn't register.

Switch 24 is open, which I believe is the root cause of the "Check Fuse" error.

I'd have to check this when I get home. I don't think I did any opto tests.

I'll also have to try this when I get home. I did reseat all of the opto board connectors under the playfield, but never checked them in the test menu.

Oh shit, I think I've been reading this wrong. When you guys say test the fuse out of the holder, you mean test the actual fuse itself? I thought everyone was saying to test the fuse holder on the board with no fuse in it.

If that's the case, Fuse 115 and 116 are definitely good. I will check all of the other fuses tonight, and go buy some new ones for the other slots.

No battery leakage. The game was working 100% before I moved it, so I really don't think it would be corrosion.

However, I'll try any fix I can find.

I'll check that out. I've got a weird one for you. On JM, 212, 205, 206, 208 and 209 all have multiple wires going to them. When we were taking the head off of this one, there was a stray wire electrical taped to a group of wires, but I couldn't see any exposed wires, so it seemed like this wire was just taped to get it out of the way.

The game was working fine without this wire. I've found out that wire is supposed to be the only wire connected to J207 and it's described like this in the menu: to cabinet switches

I would think this would make a difference but the game was working without it, unless it was hacked into a wire and I just couldn't see an exposed wire. I've checked multiple wire groups but could not find the sticky electrical tape residue where it was originally taped.

Also, what was suggested in another thread was "Run a jumper lead from J206-2 to J208-4 and see if it goes away. The jumper would simulate the closure of switch #24." I'll buy a jumper after work today too, if y'all think this would help rule things out.

Only fuse that was bad was F104. Replaced that but didn't notice a change.

Now I looked at the ball trough boards and none of the LEDs are lit. The wires that are sodered to it are getting around 72V, but yeah, the LEDs aren't lit up.

I was wrong. They're not actually attached to the board, but to the coil that pops the balls out.

Is there a way to test this with a DMM, or do I need to keep ruling other things out?

Hehe, well I've got about 15 hours in and have tried a lot of stuff. Game was 100% before it rode in the car (and I hooked everything back up).

Going to try to test the switch matrix now.

Just did the testing from this link, http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#Switch_Matrix_Problems and it all checks out.

I disconnected J106 J107 J108 J109 and error remains. Ran a jumper from from J107-2 to J109-4, closing switch 24, and the error went away.

Also, I'm guessing Lm339 needs to be soldered on, hehe.

I can't solder.

Its' possible. Shit man.

By the way, I appreciate all the help you guys are giving me.

Honestly dude, if it's not that I wouldn't know what to do. Feel like I've tested everything in this thing.

Problem is that I was the one hooking the head back up. I'm also the one who told him what to mark that side as, the security board.

I've been thinking back and I'm pretty sure I mixed up two of the connectors between j106-j109, specifically, I think either mixed up 08 and 09, or 06 and 07.

Probably blew up something.

Oh and the last thing I did tonight was hook that wire up to 207 and it didn't change anything

Awesome guys. I'll give the J101 connector a look.

Mot that board is now correct. If I hooked them up wrong it was only for a few seconds. I feel like that page you linked is burned into my eyes.

Would you have any idea what to look for on the coin board? aside from reseating connectors and testing voltages I'm pretty illiterate at this point in time.

Yeah, that guide always ends with replacing U20 if you can't figure out what's going on.

Something like that. Switch 24 is open when it should be closed.

There's a couple guides out there, most point to a BR, U20, LM339, or an easy fix. I was hoping for the easy fix one.