Cool, favorited the thread and look forward to updates.
You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider zaphX.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.
Out of curiosity, does anyone know how the original chest mech worked? If it could somehow inherit it's motion from the chest fork, rather than run on its own motor, I think it would be cool.
The chest fork mech motion has a bit of "attitude" to it, in how it goes up slightly before it slams down.
Quoted from pinballj:I think it was directly linked somehow to the fork mech. If you watch the earlier twitch streams when it was there, the motion of it opening was fast and closing fast. I thought about going down that path myself, but thought if after all of the testing JJP decided it was causing ball rejects, maybe the fork was not lifting all of the way all of the time... to just use a separate motor.
But I guess to answer your question, I honestly don't know LOL.
You know, for the longest time chest shot rejects were caused by the fork mech getting loose. It would be a shame if the opening chest was junked without being the actual cause.
Quoted from pinballj:Well that is an excellent point. Now I kinda want to go back to the drawing board and make a simpler mod
Well think of it this way, we have one solution that definitely works. Maybe there's another that also works without needing a servo, switch etc! I would be really interested to see the original mech...
Quoted from Agima2000:I think the lid was just too heavy.
I wanted to rebuild that, but unfortunately I'm missing the time.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Ah hah. Exactly as I suspected, the fork does the job of lifting the lid via a linkage.
How is the chest lid currently forced open? Was the hinge simply replaced with some sort of flange? In your pics, how does the linkage connect to the chest lid itself?
I'm not understanding what is going on in that video. Is there a separate coil for the chest lid? Or is it just connecting the hinge to the fork via linkage + seesaw?
Quoted from PinMonk:That coil is the one that releases the balls. It looks like there's just a linkage that goes down under the playfield, pulling the lid open when the forks go up and releasing the lid to close when the forks go down.
Ah ok sweet. That is what I thought as well.
Seems like this could be haxored together with some basic parts, maybe.
Am I correct to assume the chest does -not- have a hinge as shipped?
It looks like the parts list to make this happen are:
- Hinge
- L bracket to connect hinge to linkage
- Linkage down through the playfield slot
- Metal linkage to use as "seesaw" hooked to the fork mech, 2 holes 1 slot
- Basic lock nuts, nylon washers, spacers etc.
Unknowns at this point:
- Exact sizes/specs on the parts in question
- Are these customs, or can they be found in the wild somehow
EDIT: Maybe this will work? It claims to have holes -and- slots. https://www.lowes.com/pd/Hillman-0-094-ft-x-1-375-in-Plated-Steel-Slotted-Metal-Flat-Bar/3059253
Quoted from steigerpijp:After seeing the proto pictures , I set out today to see it active in a fully mechanical form.
It works ,( I have a video but no clue how to upload it here) although its quite a violent action& jerk on the whole metal chest bracket . Fitting some rubbers will help but I can guess that stress fatigue on the brackets is the cause of ditching the function for production models.
Oh and a shame my lid came so warped from the factory
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
See, I love this solution. What you crafted here is exactly what I hoped to get. Nothing against the OP but I like the simplicity - no additional switch/servo in the mix, and the action 100% synced with the fork mech. Violence on the bracket doesn't bother me, but I really would like to hear how/why this mech was abandoned. Specifically what the problem(s) were with it.
Also, did you take any video of it in action?
Here's the video for the steigerpijp linkage-based mod in action:
https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B11JqstnBJF1jPF
Looking very forward to this being productized!
Quoted from Yelobird:Fricken love it! Thanks for sharing. Yep, thats the way the original worked. If #steigerpijp can figure out the correct cam pivot points I could have these cut from ANY material on my waterjet by the hundred in an afternoon. So glad there are people pushing to make this happen as its to simple to have been omitted honestly. Count me in for fab of any kind in any material.
I will absolutely buy this kit and sign up as a tester. It will get a lot of mileage in my house!
My thinking:
Servo: Motor will eventually give out, switch could fail. Two extra points of failure.
Linkage: Run off the coil which is electromagnetic and already firing anyway. Less to fail.
Maybe the issue with the chest wasn't the mech at all.
Maybe it was wear on the chest banging open and shut. I can see the paint wearing off of the prototype pics. Something we can mitigate with cabinet bumpers or something most likely.
Another possible reason for the chest nerf - maybe there was lack of consistency on the lids in terms of alignment with the chest?
Quoted from Zora:Instead of this mechanical opening mech, I prefer the "new" electric solution, which seems to lead to less pressure on the chest and the forks.
Yes, you've made that clear.
Quoted from pinballj:I still need to do the final writeup, but here is a video of the final testing of the servo actuated open/close:
I apologize for the bad audio/video, but I couldn't find my USB audio in adapter. I had an ok game considering there was a mic stand with a phone in front of my face lol.
I started the video to watch the chest action - which is great, well done!! - but then got interested in your score! Pretty good game there.
Quoted from pinballj:It is not too bad.
For the DIY:
It takes you longer to cut the metal plate and 3d print the bracket.
Soldering is not too bad.. just 7 connections to solder (3 for servo, 2 for switch, 2 for power).
The rest is wire ties and screws.
Final bracket, plate pattern and source for the arduino will be uploaded and link will be provided in this thread.
For the kit:
harryhoudini is going to make up a kit that is available. Of course the kit needs to be made first, but I would think a person comfortable already with installing a mod in some capacity could handle this in half an hour or so.
Idea/question: If I remember right (and it's possible I don't) there was already an EOS switch on the fork mech. Maybe it's possible to tap that instead of adding a second switch?
Quoted from pinballj:So I got almost everything documented now for anyone wanting to tackle this. I am printing out a bracket and making a plate to send to harryhoudini so that he can make some kits up for people wanting to go that route too.
Here is a link to the bracket on thingiverse: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3719361
I have everything in a GitHub repo here: https://github.com/jfleitz/jjpotc-chest
If you don't want to read the readme though, the Bill of Materials list is here: https://github.com/jfleitz/jjpotc-chest/blob/master/materials.md
I need to get the final plate sketched up and uploaded, but that should be all that is left for documentation purposes.
Oh also, the latest source has been uploaded to the github repo too (it was just the close angle that I adjusted).
Good luck to everyone trying this! I am confident harryhoudini will make a good kit too, once all parts are acquired etc.
-Jeremy
Oh, and pardon my grammar in the write-ups... I haven't really proofread anything yet lol.
Thanks Jeremy for all the work you've done this mod!
Maybe we need a separate thread for it, but any updates on the linkage-based mod? This is still the route I want to go.
For those interested, it looks like shapeways.com can print the bracket in "versatile plastic" for around 50 bucks.
All this complexity is why I prefer the linkage-based solution steigerpijp was exploring.
We already have energy on the fork to raise/lower the lid.
I’ll get downvotes for this but I really hope that solution still comes to pass.
Quoted from koops:So all dev work on a passive version that uses the fork has stopped?
Last I heard it is still being worked on and is undergoing extensive testing. That's the one I am holding out for.
harryhoudini I'm installing one of these for a local friend tomorrow. The only thing I am unclear on is the removal of the existing lid, does this require Pearl removal?
Quoted from KornFreak28:He posted a really cool video on his site. Pretty easy IMO.
I must have missed it. I reviewed the install instruction videos which started with the parts and ended with the alternate rod setup. Did not see one for the initial chest disassembly?
Quoted from KornFreak28:Look at post 826
Got it. Thanks! Looks easy enough.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jjpotc-treasure-chest-open-and-close/page/17#post-5186752
harryhoudini Ive installed the chest mod for cheshirefilms and it seems to work perfectly except the state is inverted. It closes when it should open and vice versa.
Does flashing the software fix this?
Quoted from PinMonk:Putting the rod on the opposite arm of the servo also fixes this.
Thanks for this tip! That fixed us. The only other hicky was inconsistent operation at first, corrected with a slight bend to the switch arm.
The mod is cool!
Quoted from harryhoudini:Sounds like you got it Glad to hear it went relatively smoothly.
It's a great mod. After seeing it in action, the game seems so broken without it.
Quoted from Lancelin2k14:Everything on mine seems to be backwards, can get the chest to open when hitting the targets but it wont close. Ive updated the code, tried installing every which way but nothing works. When I switch the game on it cycles just fine and opens/closes.
Wasted 5 hours today on this hunk of junk. The instructions are wrong and its up to us to just guess which way ours were put together.
We had some struggles with this too. If the chest does the open/close on boot properly, the issue is probably the arm to the microswitch. Make sure it closes and opens the switch in response to the forks being up and down, and bend the arm if needed.
I got the mod and installed it today. It works, but it’s a wee bit flaky. Sometimes, for example, it only opens the chest a crack.
Next open/close works as expected.
Is this a power issue?
EDIT: Hmm, seems to have stabilized out. If it gets flaky again I will try the string approach.
Also, I put some wire loom for the rod to travel through, which gives it a smooth plastic tunnel to operate in without chafing the playfield or other wires.
Quoted from harryhoudini:That's basically that flexible pushrod that someone linked to above, you just made a DIY one Seems like it could only help.
As long as the rod isn't binding anywhere then the partial opening might be a power related thing, although I don't think we've seen that. Either works or doesn't. If you have the lighting mod make sure you check out the speed options (bottom right key).
No lighting mod, but I would like it to close the chest faster...there is a delay between the forks going down and the chest closing that I'd like to reduce. Is that possible with the little remote button thing?
Well, I spoke too soon about it working itself out. I am getting regular failures now. Frequent but not 100%.
The symptoms:
- Chest opens only a sliver of what it should.
- When the chest closes, it rises to its full height, then closes.
- Sometimes on boot when it does the open-close thing, it doesn’t open all the way there either, making a whirring noise when it stalls.
I don’t think the linkage is binding, but I’ll check it again.
I’m assuming the bootup sequence doesn’t care about the state of the microswitch, so the control arm for that is unlikely to be the culprit. I am guessing this is a power issue and it doesn’t have enough power to pull it down.
Any suggestions?
I rechecked the rod and you were right, it was binding up. I bent it all back straight and started over, and now it seems fine. One clue that it was binding: the close operation was “choppy” previously and is now completely smooth.
Quoted from fifou313:There is no link between the game code and the chest code. Only the switch made it open en close.
Maybe you need to adjut the switch
Yeah most likely the control arm for the switch on the mod needs to be bent to more reliably engage/disengage with the fork movement.
Quoted from KornFreak28:Is there a way to test it without having to start a new game?
The chest mod responds to the fork position, so device test fork ought to work.
You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider zaphX.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.
Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.
Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!
This page was printed from https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jjpotc-treasure-chest-open-and-close?tu=zaphX and we tried optimising it for printing. Some page elements may have been deliberately hidden.
Scan the QR code on the left to jump to the URL this document was printed from.