(Topic ID: 244666)

JJPOTC Treasure Chest Open/Close mod, now working!


By pinballj

4 months ago



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  • Latest reply 1 day ago by vireland
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Topic index (key posts)

4 key posts have been marked in this topic

Post #7 Working prototype video Posted by pinballj (4 months ago)

Post #185 Everything needed to make your own chest-opening mod... Posted by pinballj (3 months ago)

Post #615 Code for lighting mod controller Posted by harryhoudini (69 days ago)

Post #925 Adjusting switch for mod when chest lid doesn't work Posted by harryhoudini (39 days ago)


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#35 4 months ago

Looks great. This will be a must-have mod.

#39 4 months ago
Quoted from BC_Gambit:

Amazing!
Hopefully you can sell these... It seems almost unfair to make pirates even better.

The sooner the better so we can all test them for JJP for the next 6 months in the real world and Eric can get his open/closing chest on the LE re-run once it's proven durable and JJP makes a deal with Pinballj for solving their engineering puzzle.

#55 4 months ago
Quoted from gumnut01:

Everyone. The OP says he does not want to make it for you and sell it. He says he will give instructions a material list and the 3D stl files. So stop all saying that you want to buy it from him (unless he changes his mind)

I think some people don't have access to 3D printers or have soldering skills, etc. When I did the spike power supply quiet fan mod thread (here: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/replacing-stern-spike-noisy-ps-fans) , I never intended to be selling them, but the overwhelming majority of people in that thread preferred a plug and play kit even though I posted part numbers and step by step instructions to do it yourself. I've since sold hundreds of the plug n play fan kit. I doubt even 10% of that have done it on their own from scratch following my initial instructions. So I totally understand what's going on. Best case if he doesn't want to go pure retail is to do something like the spike fan thread. Provide instructions/part numbers/files for those that want to do DIY and team up with mod couple or whoever to sell premade kits to those that don't want DIY and just want something they can install and run.

#65 4 months ago
Quoted from zaphX:

I'm not understanding what is going on in that video. Is there a separate coil for the chest lid? Or is it just connecting the hinge to the fork via linkage + seesaw?

That coil is the one that releases the balls. It looks like there's just a linkage that goes down under the playfield, pulling the lid open when the forks go up and releasing the lid to close when the forks go down.

#67 4 months ago
Quoted from zaphX:

Ah ok sweet. That is what I thought as well.
Seems like this could be haxored together with some basic parts, maybe.
Am I correct to assume the chest does -not- have a hinge as shipped?

I have no idea, haven't taken it apart.

#70 4 months ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Maybe I'm slow.. or missing something... but OP used a servo, right?
And the concept is that the original method to do this was going to be using the same lifting mechanism as the forks but was never implemented? I would ponder why it was scrapped? Is it just cost for parts or I am wondering if the forks will not have enough power to lift the lid or quickly enough? Otherwise that seems like a quick and easy solution.

There was a reliability issue in the field. What part was unreliable, I don't know. BUT it seems like the servo method would be less jarring for the whole assembly. Given how thin those mounts are for the chest, I can see them breaking if it's being banged open and closed with the force of the forks.

#81 4 months ago
Quoted from zaphX:

See, I love this solution. What you crafted here is exactly what I hoped to get. Nothing against the OP but I like the simplicity - no additional switch/servo in the mix, and the action 100% synced with the fork mech. Violence on the bracket doesn't bother me, but I really would like to hear how/why this mech was abandoned. Specifically what the problem(s) were with it.
Also, did you take any video of it in action?

It's not so much violence on the bracket as violence transferred to the chest lid and mounts. Given that they're already shown to be breaking just from the ball whipping into the chest, the amount of violence of this action is very likely to break stuff and is probably why it was abandoned. The servo is likely the best long-term solution given that it's much gentler on the chest and mounts from the video.

#89 4 months ago
Quoted from zaphX:

Here's the video for the steigerpijp linkage-based mod in action:
https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B11JqstnBJF1jPF
Looking very forward to this being productized!

Honestly that doesn't look THAT violent, and the simplicity is something to be appreciated. I'd be willing to test this out on location to see how it holds up. Worst case, if it doesn't, there's a servo version...

#92 4 months ago
Quoted from zaphX:

My thinking:
Servo: Motor will eventually give out, switch could fail. Two extra points of failure.
Linkage: Run off the coil which is electromagnetic and already firing anyway. Less to fail.

Except the brackets holding the chest on. There are definite downsides to both. But the fact that we have two potential ways to solve the issue is great!

#114 4 months ago
Quoted from gumnut01:

There are 2 posters that have loudly said “fantastic, your’s is the right solution!” Whilst dismissing the OPs solution who started this thread in the first place.
I guess that’s why a few of us are nervous that the OP will be discouraged and not bother posting the final solution. Some of us would prefer the electronic. Maybe there should be a seperate thread for the mechanical so neither advancement overshadows the other.
Both are great, just be aware that there are 2 solutions and neither camp of followers should be discounting the other.
steigerpijp amazed at your creations, your gun plunger is awesome!!!

More solutions to choose from, the better. I think the electronic will be best long-term, but my mind's open.

1 week later
#156 3 months ago
Quoted from pinballj:

I still need to do the final writeup, but here is a video of the final testing of the servo actuated open/close:

I apologize for the bad audio/video, but I couldn't find my USB audio in adapter. I had an ok game considering there was a mic stand with a phone in front of my face lol.

Fantastic work. Can't wait to get this installed!

#190 3 months ago
Quoted from pinballj:

So I got almost everything documented now for anyone wanting to tackle this. I am printing out a bracket and making a plate to send to harryhoudini so that he can make some kits up for people wanting to go that route too.
Here is a link to the bracket on thingiverse: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3719361
I have everything in a GitHub repo here: https://github.com/jfleitz/jjpotc-chest
If you don't want to read the readme though, the Bill of Materials list is here: https://github.com/jfleitz/jjpotc-chest/blob/master/materials.md
I need to get the final plate sketched up and uploaded, but that should be all that is left for documentation purposes.
Oh also, the latest source has been uploaded to the github repo too (it was just the close angle that I adjusted).
Good luck to everyone trying this! I am confident harryhoudini will make a good kit too, once all parts are acquired etc.
-Jeremy
Oh, and pardon my grammar in the write-ups... I haven't really proofread anything yet lol.

Thanks so much! Really looking forward to this!

Do you recommend PLA, ABS, or something like Nylon for the bracket material? Is there a lot of stress on it?

#192 3 months ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

I’m confused, Do we have to print the bracket ourselves or is this bracket sold at thingiverse?

I don't know where you live, but lots of libraries have 3D printers now and you can print one there if your library has them. Also check your town for services that offer 3D prints.

#194 3 months ago
Quoted from wesman:

No shit???
I thought it was crazy to rent video games and digital books, but 3D printing also?!?!? How amazing!

The progressive ones have realized that recreational book reading isn't coming back on a large scale, and google killed the need for research repositories in each city, so they've branched out. Even our backwoods town library has 3D printers (they're not GREAT but they're good enough).

#226 3 months ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Question for this thread, since it's very chest specific. I was working on a mod to give the chest a cover so you didn't have to see all the weird internals. I debated over and over if it mattered if you see the balls. I have a solution for that.
Given the option for the actuating lid now, is anyone even interested in this kind of thing?
One option was just gold "treasure" (much like the POTC ride scene) with some sparkly jewels and such. The other was to have a beating heart in the chest. The heart would beat red, backlight illuminated. The jewels might even be backlit.
To solve the ball situation, if it was a really big deal for someone, I was looking at putting 3 tiny switches in the cover that sensed the balls and lit up 3 "chest ball" indicators within the chest cover. It's going a bit far with the effort needed, but it was a thought.
Anyhow, I'm only going to work on this if others are interested. With the open close now I am less at a push to make it but I still sort of detest the inside of the chest. I cleaned mine up with some foam strips so you can't see the difference between the mounting bracket and the chest surround but it's still weird with the balls all bunched up at the end and the little light doing it's hardest to light up the interior.
**Oh, another note... I can list my RGB chest lid lighting if anyone wants to get that with the chest. Good time to install and it can be set to any color you want.
Pic is just a shitty render of some coins... it would look more like gold treasure, I think.[quoted image]

The heart is the only thing that makes sense as it's part of the story and the chest "beats." Honestly, though if it opens and closes and the LED is brighter (green then red), that's probably enough.

#234 3 months ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Shhhhhhh.... shhhhh....[quoted image]

A simple black cover back there might be best. If everything is embellished, nothing stands out.

#244 3 months ago

I should have the parts to start on this mod later today. I'll let y'all know how it goes. FYI, that bracket print with 60% fill medium speed and .2 layer height with a .4 nozzle is about 7 hours. The required supports really slow it down, but what are you gonna do?

First tip:
Lowes has the hinges noted already in black/dark brown:
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Gatehouse-2-Pack-1-1-2-in-X-1-1-4-in-Oil-Rubbed-Bronze-Surface-Broad-Cabinet-Hinge/1000141901

Second tip:
The recommended Arduino boards on Amazon are not actual Nanos, but crappy Chinese knockoffs (which is why you're getting 3 for $12). Two things you need to know - first, these require a different Serial to USB driver than the real Arduinos. They want you to get it from a russian site, but I wasn't cool with that so I found it elsewhere. Second, you have to select the processor with "(Old Bootloader)" next to it. If you just select the processor without the OLD version, it just won't work. You want to upload simply, NOT upload with programmer.

#264 3 months ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

If anyone wants the 3d printed part only they are listed now. Will take a bit of time to ship so if you want it immediately might want to source it online.
https://magicalproductions.miiduu.com/jpinballs-actuated-chest-mod-bracket-only-jersey-jack-pinball-pirates-of-the-caribbean

I'm making a bracket/container for the fake arduino board so you can snap it to the bracket in a vented enclosure instead of having to zip-tie it to the block as it is now. If people hang tight for a day or two I should have it tested and I'll post the change.

#272 3 months ago

Ha! Even roughing it out, I spent way more time on this than I should have. This is a rough print. If you go to .15 or .10 it can look much better.

Here's the Nano enclosure. There are two channels (left and right) inside the enclosure, under the board to run the wiring down to the end of the box and out so it has a clean look. This just has the two switch leads attached for the picture.

nano-box-bottom (resized).jpg

I have no idea what heat these generate, so I vented the top, just in case.
nano-box-top (resized).jpg

Then the Nano enclosure snaps into the modified bigger bracket. Since it takes so long to print a full bracket, I only printed the base of that area to test the fit. It just clips in and out. Pretty nice.
nano-braket-clipped-in (resized).jpg

Here's the top part with cable management for the leads to the switch and the leads coming up from the servo on the side. I'm pretty sure I'll be cutting the connector off the servo and soldering the control line straight to the Nano and the power leads to the 5V adapter.

nano-bracket-top-w-cable-management (resized).jpg
#274 3 months ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Nice!
Do you know if those dimensions work for all "nano" devices or is that only the specific size of an Arduino?

I only have the fake Arduino Nano board from Amazon that the OP suggested for this project on the BoM. No idea how it stacks up to other real or fake Nanos. I'm assuming they tried to fake convincingly, including dimensions, but I have no idea.

#277 3 months ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Cool, thanks. I purchased a bulk of different (pre-soldered) boards so I'll measure and see if we need to modify to fit or if it is universal.

Which boards did you get? By pre-soldered do you mean the pin headers are on the board? That might be a clearance problem. Since there's so few wires to connect, I didn't even put the header pins on the boards I got.

#279 3 months ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Ah, I thought the headers were in use with the hookup wires. I can exchange them pretty easily.
I think this is the model: amazon.com link »
I believe the supplier also has them in unsoldered.

With just a handful of wires to connect, it's easier just to push the wires though the holes and solder them directly to the board. I'm hoping to have everything wired up with the revised bracket and nano enclosure later tonight to make sure it all comes together cleanly. Then I can worry about installing it to get the chest working.

#281 3 months ago
Quoted from Soulrider911:

Think I’m going to fork the OP’s code and add support for toggling and led strip on and off for those of us that have an led strip in the trunk
Also anyone know where he sources the 5v power from? What connection on backbox?

ATX adapter on the computer power supply to tap the 5V without affecting anything else.

#288 3 months ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

What’s this for? Sorry guys, confused

The existing bracket just has a block and a space to zip-tie the Nano to it, which looks...messy. This cleans everything up and puts it in a clip-on block and has hooks to manage the wires so the install will be much cleaner.

#290 3 months ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

I assume it could just be screwed to the block too, no?

If the block size was increased to allow holes. As it is now, the design is very tight. No wasted space. It's only designed to clip in.

#295 3 months ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

Thanks for the explanation! Is this going to be included in HH’s kit? Or is this going to be sold separately?

I'll post the revised parts so you can print it if you want. I want mine to be a very clean install, but I'm pickier than most.

#297 3 months ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Well, I certainly hope you rounded all the corners and sanded it

Ha! I ALMOST made the corners rounded, but talked myself out of it to concentrate on functionality/accessibility/wire management. Sanding for a utilitarian product is a bridge too far, so I'm not doing that. These improvements are essentially for my own OCD mollification.

#308 3 months ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Ah. I couldn't envision many power hungry mods. A few lamps and servo/Arduino can't be much.

The main advantage is isolating all the mods from the JJP system. No additional power draw within their design.

#323 3 months ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

We are probably either supplying lid parts in PETG, Lexan or 3D printed filament. Going to determine what works the best for this and what we can produce well. Metal is still an option if any of those options aren't strong enough. Cheers for pinballj for doing that up. I hear parts from him and from geteos are on the way to me. I have, I believe, all of the other parts needed. Once I do the install I'll confirm the kit contents and we'll start putting them together. My wife is doing pre-production work on wiring connections and such.
For those wanting the updated "case" for the Nano we can probably do that but it would have to be later in the process since we don't even have the file yet. So if you want to wait for that PM me and I'll put your order on hold. Frankly, I don't think it's necessary at all... what you get from us will be a finished product without a PCB zip tied to the plastic. You'll never see it.

The nano box is done, I'm just fine-tuning the main bracket. Wire-management for the servo is done and great, but the channel for the switch wires is too small. Once I adjust that the main bracket will be ready to go. I also tightened up the servo cutout on the main bracket since the original was too wide. I have a super-OCD nano box with a junction box, but no idea how long that will take (and let's be honest, that's overkill, but I am ill), so I'm just going to give you the revised bracket and nano box STLs as soon as I get the switch wiring channel fixed.

Here's where it's at before adjusting the switch wire channel. Note that this is still a very low-res print so the plastic's a little rough:
bracket_v2 (resized).jpg

The servo leads would be cut and routed into the nano box, or you'd have a connector coming out of the nano box and connect the servo to that. The servo lead can probably be shortened to a custom length by opening the 4 screws on the servo and shortening the wire from that end, but I haven't tried that (yet). I will have to for my super-OCD version, though.

#329 3 months ago

For the record, on the servo the pinouts are:

Brown: Ground
Orange/Reddish: +
Yellowish: Signal/Control

And here's how the board wires up (power for the board comes through the mini-USB):

arduino pinout (resized).jpg
#331 3 months ago
Quoted from pinballj:

Thanks for posting, but just to clarify, the source has it as D10 (not D12), but that can easily change in software if you want to use D12
https://github.com/jfleitz/jjpotc-chest/blob/609117a48fa64482862a90c043a359e189d8d106/arduino/chest-opener.ino#L13[quoted image]

Fixed. Thanks.

Do you have a picture of your base bracket with the switch attached? I think I have this right, but want to make sure.

#334 3 months ago
Quoted from pinballj:

Sure.. I forgot to call this out too, as I bent the micro actuator on the last bracket to get better contact (see pic). I am traveling right now, but thought instead of bending, you could pivot the switch on the screw toward the center of the bracket until the actuator points to the edge...then screw down. Hope that makes sense.
When I get back I will try that myself and post results. The original bracket has been working perfect, so I haven't messed with it.
Fyi harryhoudini
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Thanks for the pic!

I'm screwing the switch from the top down with a thicker platform so it lines up with the main plate it's attached to on the bottom for maximum strength. But the direction of the screws shouldn't matter.

#338 3 months ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Thanks pinballj box arrived today! Everything looks great. I have a 3D printer arriving tomorrow so I may just print out the lid brackets here. Otherwise it all looks great. Once the parts from geteos arrive I'll put together a production sample and install it, video instructions, etc.
What did you power it with? I'm going to wire in connectors for everyone with the kit, but I don't know where there is 5v power aside from the USB plugs. I can include a step down buck board if we need to and can steal power from a spotlight or topper (there's even a spare in the backbox). I mean, I guess we could wire it up to a USB on the PC but that seems a little janky.

The power is coming from the mini-USB. You can get an adapter that splits 5v off the ATX power supply to a USB connector so you're not tapped into anything in the system.

I've finished the redesigned big bracket that can take the nano-box snap-in and has the some wire management. I'm printing both now to make sure there are no unforseen issues, then I'll send you the big bracket and nano box files tomorrow that you can use for anyone that wants them.

I'm going to continue on to finish off a Super-OCD version for me that has a junction box with plugs and some other niceties for a super-clean install.

#340 3 months ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Thanks, I figured the ATX had 5v. I was going to solder in the connectors for power to the board so there isn't the need for a USB plug. Sort of lame to run wire all the way down the harness and up in to the backbox for 5v but that seems ideal over a buck board. Gonna have to order a grip ton of wire.

Yeah, I was initially confused about the 5v on the board. Assumed there would be a solder pad, but they had to make design consessions due to the tiny size compared to an Uno board which has an actual DC power plug and USB by combining the power and data into one Mini-USB.

#342 3 months ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

And speaking of which, MINI USB!?!? I had to freaking route around in my cable boxes for like 20 minutes only to finally rob one off an old USB hub I was sort of using and forgot about. Why the heck did they use that?! At least use micro. I guess I hadn't investigated the nano enough. I got an UNO development board to mess with and work on another mod and I was using the 5v input on the board.

Micro USB is crappier real-world. It SUPPOSEDLY is more reliable on paper, but connectivity issues happen way faster than mini USB. The main reason everyone went to micro is it's thinner and, well, mobile needs that. Plus, the nano this board is copying came out more than 10 years ago. The shift to micro USB hadn't really happened in earnest in mobile by then - the iPhone had just come out!

#345 3 months ago
Quoted from Agima2000:

Yes, I had problems with it, so I supplied the nano and the servo directly with 5 volts.
When the voltage is cut off via the Nano (USB), then the Nano did not always start reliably.

Wait, so are you saying connecting the computer USB to the Nano mini-usb for 5v power wasn't reliable so you just sent the Nano 5v directly from the ATX power supply to the mini-USB, OR are you saying you didn't use the mini-USB to supply the 5v at all?

IF you didn't use the mini-USB, where did you put the 5v power input in on the Nano?

#348 3 months ago
Quoted from pinballj:

You should be able to power the nano from the 5volt pin (same as where the servo is wired) and not use the mini USB connector at all. I got a Y atx adapter that I am going to use to do this myself.
So basically 5volt pin on the nano goes to Servo power and ATX red wire from the power supply. This bypasses the voltage regulator on the nano (which is a good thing imo, since current draw of a servo could be pushing it).

So basically put a Y on the 5v output from the ATX power supply and send one lead to the servo and the other to the 5v header on the nano, then?

#359 3 months ago

Okay, here's a link to the revised jjPotC bracket and nano box that snaps into the revised bracket to clean up the look of the install:

http://www.irelandfamily.com/pinside/Base_Arduino-box-and-bracket.zip

I'll leave it up for the forseeable future and you can use it as you like.

Note that the nano box works better getting into and out of the clips if you slide it in from the outside and then shift it over and press down. It clips in VERY snug by design. It's not going anywhere.

Also, the nano itself clips into the nano box very snug as well. If you're having problems getting it to snap in, just use needlenose pliers to compress the angled plastic pieces that go around the mini USB connector a little to give it more room to move freely.

#362 3 months ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Sweet, we'll check this out. Wonder what the printing time compares to the other. I'll post a pic of our finished one for comparison.

I think it's just shy of 7 hours at 0.15 layer height (which is why on the SUPER OCD version I'm making for me, I'm just printing the top part where most of the changes are for testing - takes it down to less than an hour and half). The need for lots of supports on the big bracket really slows printing down. FYI the wire management Ls on the big bracket don't need supports, but the clips on each side of where the nano box goes do and the giant space between the bottom and top do.

The nano box doesn't need any supports of you make it on its back.

#365 3 months ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Looks like we're making an adjustable chest lid bracket.

So the chest lids are different sizes inside?

#387 3 months ago
Quoted from fifou313:

harryhoudini Do you plan to make a kit with mechanism for the chest including the light in the chest?
Regards.

Sounds like he's doing a version with the light and a version without and you choose.

#397 3 months ago

So off in Super-OCD land, I have the connectors and wiring worked out for the one I'm making for the one here. As was previously discussed, I won't be using the USB for power to avoid stability issues. The connector opposite the servo and switch on the top of the nano box will be connected to the ATX power supply's 5v.

super-ocd-chest-bracket (resized).jpg
#440 3 months ago
Quoted from pinballj:

FYI, vireland pointed out an issue with the open/close mod where the servo makes a buzzing noise and "always stays on". This is the servo actually making little adjustments to hold position of what it was commanded. It "shouldn't" be an issue, but since this drawing power (and really is making the servo motor always do something), I made a change to the source to turn off the servo when it reaches it's destination. New source has been uploaded, and can still be found here:
https://github.com/jfleitz/jjpotc-chest/tree/master/arduino
Thanks for pointing this out vireland!

Thanks for fixing it so quickly. I wasn't sure why it was doing it, but it seemed like a long-term reliability issue. Glad the fix was easy!

1 week later
#475 3 months ago
Quoted from heni1977:

I am now following. Just did see this. Took a few days away from pinside being busy at work and home. This is great! Do you have one out there on a route being used? I am wondering about durability.

I'll be putting it on a route machine. It's ALMOST done and then I can install it. Went a little crazy with the design. (Before you say anything, some of the graphic keys are wrong ATM. The wiring works, though. )

I think it'll hold up fine, but I'll be the first to tell you if it doesn't.
Nano-box (resized).jpg

#487 89 days ago
Quoted from Trooper11040:

each one except one had some issue. The supports were taking off the little nubs to hold the wires

I assume you're using PLA....

Don't need supports for them on most printers. Should print without them. Only the giant open area on the right of the upright needs supports. On my OCD version after these, I actually added a little wedge to the back side of the wire brackets to give it a little more heft.

Quoted from Trooper11040:

I own a prusa MK3S...great investment!

DEFINITELY doesn't need supports for the wire brackets on this. I have three of these for printing, so I know they work without supports for the wire brackets.

#489 89 days ago
Quoted from Trooper11040:

Are you using any particular settings to avoid printing support?

I am using support on the really big gap, just not for those little wire management pieces. They come out fine. If you don't want to waste time and just check, cut off the bottom of the model and just print the top part where all the action is and see how it prints. You can print that top part at 40% fill or so in less than 2 hours. I'm using Prusa and Hatchbox filament pretty interchangeably so I don't think it matters.

#503 85 days ago
Quoted from Trooper11040:

What is the point of the extension for the servo? My servo wire is pretty long...

Extension? I shortened mine...

#505 85 days ago
Quoted from Trooper11040:

It was in the original github bill of materials...I figure i can just use the 3 wires direct from the servo...

Yeah, the wire on the servo is way too long as it comes. I trimmed it down and resoldered it to clean up the look.

#508 83 days ago
Quoted from dts:

Curious why more isn't being done with the direct connection to the solenoid that raises the forks to shoot into the chest. Seems like the rapid open and close fits the game more, no electronics to deal with, and the solenoids are pretty durable. The chest lid could be cushioned to reduce the impact. Geert showed how to do this earlier:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jjpotc-treasure-chest-open-and-close/page/2#post-5050354

You're limited on the close of the solenoid by the speed of the servo (which isn't super-fast at 5v), so it will never "slam" shut, and basically just closes quickly at full speed. Also, the way the code is now, if you're wanting to beat the "heart" as it's still opening and closing, it needs to be rewritten to use the millisecond timer so it can be more like a state machine rather than single task delay loops that halt the code while one thing is happening then letting it move to the next task.

#510 83 days ago
Quoted from dts:

Ok, so I’m gathering that the main benefits of the current servo design would be less wear and tear on the mechanism raising the forks, and the chest itself, as well as the addition of the beating heart. Makes sense. It just looks so simple to open and close the chest lid through the existing slot that was clearly made for it. Must be a reason they got rid of it. My guess is that parts didn’t hold up.

Well, the original design was strictly mechanical and tied to the fork movement mech, so maybe the wear and tear was too great when you didn't have a servo controlling the speed of the lid closing (meaning, it slammed shut over and over until it broke something). We'll never really know.

The servo solution does add another potential point of failure, but it at least controls the speed of the lid somewhat, so I think it will be very reliable long-term. I've got one more thing to get working on my OCD version (green/blue ocean light matrix also attached to the Arduino for dim moving lagoon lighting under the chest when it's open) and then I can finally install this.

#526 81 days ago
Quoted from Trooper11040:

What size screws are you using to mount the actual 3D printed bracket to the coil arm?

I think I used a 8-32 Type F thread-cutting screw (there aren't any threads on the fork assembly holes).

#546 77 days ago

Two tips from my OCD version experiments:

There's an atx connector in the backbox (outside the computer case) where only the 12v (yellow lead) is being used, so if you make a splitter, it's a perfect place to tap the unused 5v (red) on that connector right from the power supply connector with no draw or effect on anything else.

Putting a led matrix below the chest to light the playfield under the chest when the chest shot is open can't be done. The playfield is too reflective and you see all the leds. I'll be moving it behind the chest and reflecting it into that area instead, but it cannot be directly lit.

#548 77 days ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Oh man, that's a good idea. What about diffusing it with some opaque plastic?
Would love to see pics of the effect when you have time.

Nope. Doesn't work. The playfield is just way too shiny.

#550 77 days ago
Quoted from gumnut01:

Confused. Are you talking about the leds in the lid to do the heart beat or something else?

No, it doesn't have anything to do with what Harry's shipping.

I went off into the imagination desert and made a different "OCD" version with a two-chamber heart light in the chest lid and a 4x4 matrix of LEDs that I programmed to transition in and out of colors that shift from greenish to dark blue to simulate the sea. My *idea* was to put that below the chest (it's very thin), but when I did it, you could see the reflection of the matrix lights in the gloss of the playfield, so I had to re-think it. I'm now making a bracket that will shift the 4x4 matrix behind the chest, aimed down to light up the channel under the chest without the reflection of the LEDs.

This is an earlier version of the Nano box (that's an upgraded version from what I posted for people to print of the basic Nano box enclosure). It has the two LEDs, 5v input from the ATX power supply in the backbox, and the AUX is the connector I'm using to drive the "ocean" matrix.

Nano-box (resized).jpg
#553 77 days ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Here is an introduction video to the chest mod pieces and how you'll get the items from us. Some had asked to see what was involved with the install and this gives a short overview of how this gets installed on the game. I didn't show removing the lid, it's a pretty simple procedure and I have a video of that as well which will be combined into an install video. Again, this isn't an install video, which I am making and will be more in depth.
Looks like we have about 45 or so of the mods that will be shipping out this week. They will go in order, obviously, so you'll get a shipping notification if you are in those first 45. I think we'll have another 30 or more going out next week, which should be close to covering all of the orders.

Two questions on this video.

Why did you use the optional 4-way connector on the servo instead of the 2-way arm it also comes with?

Also, the Steel kwik-link rods come with an end that has a springloaded clip that can snap into the holes on the servo arms eliminating the need for any other parts to connect the rod to the servo arm. I used the second hole from the end and drilled it out a smidge more to make the rod move freely once snapped into the servo arm holes, but this eliminates one whole other part.

#559 76 days ago
Quoted from pinballj:

On the kwik link, I did end up using the threaded rod end w the clevis to go on the servo instead of the mini connector on mine (either way works), and then using a little ball end that has a set screw on the side for the end to the chest top.
This also allows for you to unscrew the kwik link altogether from the top of the playfield, if you ever wanted to get into the chest.

Yeah, that's the way I went, too. It made more sense to me, plus with all the wire bunches down by the servo, the less that's down there, the better.

#561 76 days ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Got a link for that part? That would probably be a much better solution, but we just went with what was on the BOM and in the original instructions.

The Servo on the BOM came with 3 or 4 arms, including the 2 way one.

amazon.com link »

And then I just clipped on the kwik-link spring-loaded end onto the second from the last hole on the 2-way arm after drilling it out a very small smidge so the hole was a little bigger and the link moved easier:
amazon.com link »

#563 76 days ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Ah, I was meaning for the clevis or ball end that pinballj used at the top. I don't want to ship all of these with a lesser solution if there is something better. We've install all of the bushings on the servos but we can probably get those changed over pretty quickly if there is a better method.

The clevis clip is the part that goes on the servo end (it comes with the Kwik link rod). snapping into one of the holes on the arm.

You can just use the Du-Bro 605 E-Z Connector with the set screw only and not use the other parts of it for the top.

1 week later
#626 68 days ago

Went with two individual LEDs for the heart instead of a strip and made two halves of a "beat" so there's a side for each ventricle, left ventricle "pumps", right ventricle lights up, and they both fade.

Cheat Heartbeat-min.gif

Still working on the lagoon lighting part. Undesirable reflection everywhere I've tried to place the 4x4 matrix. Going to try a couple individial LEDs instead next.

#630 68 days ago
Quoted from Heater:

Question,
Your video starts with the lid off and the coil removed. I assume it's pretty simple to take off and attach the lid to the plate? Also, does the coil go back to the original place or is it moved?

It's a pain to get the two nuts holding the hinge removed due to small working space, but it's not hard. You need a 5/16", preferably low-profile socket. As long at the power's off, you don't have to worry about the coil lugs. (I didn't watch the video, so didn't know the coil was being removed - I did it without taking the coil off)

The MAIN thing you need to be very careful of is the middle opto receiver (transmitter? I'm not sure what's on the back side of the chest) just below the hinge. If you knock that out (easy to do) it's a PAIN to get it snapped back in, and you can break the snap-in connector legs.

#638 68 days ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

On the back of the chest bracket there are 3 little black plastic pieces. If you shine a light back there you'll see them. They just clip in to the chest, easily come out and even break the mounting clips. Worst case you hot glue them back in place, which is probably even better than the original. I have one that is flopping around right now (I think I had to move it out of the way while I was filming even). I'll take a pic when I wake up more.

Yeah, this was the WORST part of installing the lid. I was able to get the middle one back on without breaking the legs, but it's a huge pain in the butt, and if you break them, replacing them is the only way to do it right. Fortunately they're pretty cheap. Mouser has them.

#641 68 days ago
Quoted from wesman:

Yeah, when I saw your video with the lid already off, I wondered what that involved.
This is starting to sound labor intensive in a shitty kind of way. I don't mind unravelling and resorting this game, though I am very much tired of that part of this process, but I really don't want to run the risk of breaking things, not already broken.

It really is an easy process as long as you know what to avoid. I was doing it blind, and so was Harry, so we've mapped out the hard part for you! Even with the irritating nuts you need to remove, the whole process should take about 15 minutes proceeeding slowly so as not to break the IR brackets.

#643 68 days ago
Quoted from Heater:

Knowing me, I might as well order them now!!! Do you have a link for the bracket from Mouser?

It's not a bracket, it's an all-in one IR receiver or transmitter casing. I need to look at the diagram to see if it's a transmitter or a receiver that's on that side.

#647 68 days ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Damnit. I wasn't sure if they were generic, I paid JJP for one when I got the other under warranty (heh) for the BP optos. I would have just bought bulk from Mouser. Seems like they'll be breaking in the future, just a hunch.

The mouser ones need the ends of the wire leads crimped into a connector, but that's all.

#650 68 days ago
Quoted from tgrinchy:

So I'm a few games in - not only is this mod awesome, but it makes me play better as well; I topped my grand champion score as soon as I installed it!
I noticed some "chatter" from the servo - for example, when the lid is open, it'll periodically adjust itself up/down a bid so the chest lid appears to shake a bit every so often. I believe Vireland had noticed this or something similar with the servo attempting to keep the correct position - which pinballj corrected in code a bit later. Scott - did this ship with the latest code update? Wasn't sure if this was the same thing but just running prior code.

Once the servo finishes moving each time, it needs to be disconnected with a command.

#656 68 days ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Hummm.. interesting. I did not have this happen in my testing. I did not disconnect the servo in the code, from everything I read it wasn't necessary and would let the servo move with force applied to it and not hold its position. Could this be an issue with that particular servo?
I can certainly add a detach method but I've even read comments where people suggest not to do that. It is my understanding you keep it attached so it has power applied and holds its position.
vireland or pinballj do you have specific experience with this issue? Or vireland were you just commenting that is what pinballj did?
I'll search the thread and see what was up.

I'm using servo detach because if you don't, the servo is alway applying micro-power and it makes annoying noises and unnecessary (in the big picture) micro movements. Pretty sure having the servo keep grinding the position non-stop is worse for the servo than turning it on and off as-needed. It takes quite a bit of force to move the servo, so slippage once software disconnected is not a problem. I'm running it on a route machine (with different overall code I did, but servo detach at the end of each movement) and have had no problems.

#657 68 days ago

Replacement Opto parts were actually Digi-key, not Mouser (I realized when I pulled the bags of them I have). The two I have are:

Part Number 365-1626-ND
https://www.digikey.com/products/en?keywords=365-1626-ND%20%20

...and 365-1627-ND
https://www.digikey.com/products/en?keywords=365-1627-ND%20%20

Pretty spendy at about $3 each.

#660 68 days ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Good notes. Weird, I tested maybe 10 servos in various code iterations and never had any chatter.

It's pretty quiet unless it's against something that amplifies the vibration. I could HEAR it on my desk, then holding it, I could feel it. But I can't imagine it's good for the life of the servo.

#664 68 days ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Is there any easier way for people to update their Arduinos aside from using the IDE or web editor? I'll post the updated code once I test it and make a video on updating. I was looking to see if a USB drive could do it or maybe a Pi? I would be happy to mail a pi to people if they could just plug it in and it would update. Whatever to make it easiest.
Oh and we'll deploy it on the 2nd batch. I would also swap out or program controllers for people if they want to send them in.

I don't know of any way, but I'm by no means a Nano master. Pretty sure you just need to plug it into a computer and update that way through the USB.

I actually got one of those $129 Dell Inspiron 11" mini Win10 laptops specifically for this purpose, since when I'm testing it post-install, lugging a full laptop every time I wanted to field test an update I completed bench testing at home was a pain.

#671 67 days ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Code is updated, I'll post it shortly with instructions for both Windows and Mac on how to do the update. I'll also post how to get a swap of your controller if you don't want to do it. But it's really simple and I'll do a video on how to update. All mods that ship from this point forward (if you do not already have a tracking number) will have the v1.1 code with the servo detaching.
I didn't get a chance to test the servo direction yet. Was busy soldering and trying to get the next batch ready. CPR informed me the lids have already shipped so just waiting on those.

At least it's easy to correct, just attach the lid rod to the arm on the other side of the servo arm.

#679 66 days ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

I got wrapped up in trying to finish the backboard star lighting. I have the code open here, I added a bit more stuff to it (cycles the chest when it first gets power, cleaned up a few things and left the servo on for a long time to see if it creeped, which it has not). I just want to go over it again and I'll post it today. Making videos on how to update for those that don't know.

We have it running on route and I used servo disconnect from the get-go. It does not creep in any visible way if disconnected after moving. Don't worry about that.

#681 66 days ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Oh, I was more worried that the cycle was right in my code. Not sure if you looked at it but the way the servo movement works now is non-blocking so it's a bit different. So, meaning, it seems like the disconnect is working properly in the updated code not that the servo would move without being connected.

Oh, I didn't look at the way you did it. I decided that the incremental servo commands in the initial code taken from an ardiono sample were a pretty useless difference over just telling the servo to go to the desired position in one shot and then disconnecting. Simpler, easier, less stress on the unit, not much practical difference visually, so that's the way I went.

#686 66 days ago
Quoted from Meadowhawk:

Hey Harry, got everything installed and adjusted properly with chest lighting but the chest is not opening/closing during gameplay. Also getting the chest chatter/movement that everyone is talking about. When I initially power the game on the chest opens and closes without any hangup and then stays closed throughout gameplay with a little chatter here and there. Any ideas as to what might be going on?

Check the servo switch with the forks down and see if the arm is bent out enough on the switch to be triggered. I bet the switch isn't triggering.

#687 66 days ago
Quoted from PanzerFreak:

Does this mod require any permanent alterations to either the chest or the game itself? Looks really cool.

Nope. Aside from some small wear and tear on the screw holes on the chest lid it's completely reversible.

#690 66 days ago
Quoted from Meadowhawk:

Did that and the switch is depressed when forks are down. That's the way it should be right?

But if you force the arm down a little more, does the switch base click? If it still has room to click, it's not registering.

Did you get the lighting? If so, can you see it on inside the chest?

#698 66 days ago
Quoted from Meadowhawk:

When the forks are down and resting on the arm of the switch I can't make it click by manually forcing the arm up. But, I will check it again and maybe bend the arm a little more than it is to see if that makes a difference. Yes, the lighting mod inside the chest is working. It stays on all the time in the heartbeat mode, stays on with chest closed...hope that is right...

If the lights are always "beating" then that likely means the switch is always on or wired wrong.

So with the playfield raised and power on, if the forks are UP and the lights in the chest are on, will manually closing the switch with your hand so it clicks turn them off? Or even when the switch clicks closed manually with your hands the lights stay on?

#748 62 days ago
Quoted from gumnut01:

Found the culprit. It rests on this triangle of metal. I guess I can either cut into the lid bracket or cut this bit of metal off[quoted image]

Don't do that right off. If you can avoid cutting, that's always the best way.

I'd first try using flat headed screws instead of pan head. Then, also try putting a spacer on the lid-side of the chest bracket between the bracket and the lid to raise the chest lid enough to let it close.

#758 61 days ago
Quoted from gumnut01:

Mine isn’t opening. Rod goes up not down. Downloaded latest code. Can’t understand what I’ve done wrong.[quoted image]

Put it on the other side of the star connector on the servo. You'll get opposite action.

#760 61 days ago
Quoted from gumnut01:

Ok. Watched sir tunas excellent video where he had the same problem. Last time I follow instructions!!
Working now. One last thing. The chest open up higher when opening and the settles to a half height. Same when it closes, it opens up full height then closes. Anyone else have this? Supposedly on 1.1.
Thanks vireland!

Has to do with what arm you have it on. You still have it on a "wrong" arm. Having four to choose from (instead of the 2-way one) makes this error easy to make.

#764 61 days ago
Quoted from gumnut01:

Nope. Thought I was stupid. Only sometimes. Checked servo arm as chest was actuated. Goes from 3 o’clock to 5:30 back to 4:30. So not wrong arm. Servo is moving to a set position then travelling back.
Is anyone else experiencing this with v1.1?

Maybe a bad servo? Does it do this backtracking with no rod attached?

#788 57 days ago
Quoted from koops:

So all dev work on a passive version that uses the fork has stopped?

After getting the mechanical version fully working, the concensus seemed to be that the action was too violent and is probably the reason trunk lids were breaking during test and the feature was pulled.

#789 57 days ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

I can try and work on the speeds a bit and send another update if people want it.

The servo motion at 5v is pretty slow, so full speed servo with one command to go to the open/close position is a really nice speed with no hassle and less wear and tear on the motor since each is one move rather than a bunch of small ones every time. Try it, you'll see what I mean.

#796 56 days ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

When I set the servo initial position in the setup() it goes at full speed, like a banshee out of hell, since there is no control when you "zero" it out. Your lid must snap open and close crazy. Do you have a video you posted?
I can easily circumvent the timers for full speed but it sure seemed hella fast.

Are you giving it more than 5v? The input voltage determines the speed to a large extent. I'm giving it a straight 5v and it's a nice speed open and close. I'll take some video of it opening and closing next time I'm at the location.

#798 56 days ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Yah, power goes to the servo, the lighting and the Arduino directly.

Did you measure the power at the connector with a multimeter?

#801 56 days ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

When I set the servo initial position in the setup() it goes at full speed, like a banshee out of hell, since there is no control when you "zero" it out. Your lid must snap open and close crazy. Do you have a video you posted?
I can easily circumvent the timers for full speed but it sure seemed hella fast.

Here's the lid with straight 5v and no stepping commands to get it to/from open close, but using a direct command to the open/close position instead. I don't think it's too fast.
chest-with-beat.gif

#803 55 days ago
Quoted from VillaThrills:

Hate to say this but I actually like the open fairly slow like Harry’s currently and your close speed, like it slams shut.

He could easily do a combination, but I don't know if he wants the upgrade headache...

#806 55 days ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

I don't know if he wants it either
I don't know, I think the default timing in my code is pretty close to that. It's definitely slower, but I'll have to grab one and test. I have twinkling stars in front of me today.

That's what I was getting at. The timing is almost the same (yours is just a hair slower), but using direct calls rather than stepping the motor repeatedly in a loop each time it opens and closes is less wear and tear on the servo over time.

#816 50 days ago
Quoted from javagrind888:

Your video shows these holes to be smaller and the screws cut a thread. Either my holes are way too large or the screws are too small. Am I wrong? Both sides are like this.
[quoted image]

Is the head bigger than the holes? It cuts the thread in the metal brack that piece goes over.

#818 50 days ago
Quoted from javagrind888:

Ah! Ok. Thought it threaded the plastic. Good to know

No, it threads the metal bracket holes on the jjPotC assembly and holds the plastic piece so it doesn't move.

#829 47 days ago
Quoted from Zora:

Thanks Scott, you are perfect.
Why is it necessary to remove the coil before unscrewing the two screws of the lid? It seems that the unscrewing can be made without touching the coil.
Second, some concerns were raised that the optos might break when installing the lid. Is that an issue? I do not see any optos which might be in danger.

The optos are black and very hard to see, even in real-life given the cramped conditions. The problem is not that you break the opto itself, but that you pop the opto off (they're held on by little clips) by making contact with the opto body and in trying to snap the opto back on, you break the tiny, fragile clip, which is very easy to do if you don't know what you're doing. Once the clip is broken, the opto won't stay in place and you need a new opto.

BTW, I didn't remove the coil. The access is tight, but it is do-able without removing the coil and just putting the coil cover to the side.

#834 47 days ago
Quoted from RTS:

A dab of hot glue will secure the opto in place. You don't need to replace it.
I think hot glue is a better solution than the fragile clips.

Hot glue doesn't last. Temporary solution at best for an area like that.

#842 46 days ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Yeah, same here. The only thing we could come up with are the crates or loot. The loot doesn't have to be in the chest to be consistent with the ride (Not sure about any scenes in the movie) so that sort of works. But then it draws attention behind the chest, which could be fine. If there are any other ideas, let me know. We can add on to the top of the "base" which is what we had to work on to get the right fit. Putting loot on top or whatever should be no problem.

Some low island greenery which is the background for the chest for much of the movie where it's out might be good, but it'd have to be low so as not to interfere with the cannon shot...

The only other place where it spends a lot of time is on the sandy beach where it's dug up, but that's no good...

dead-mans-chest (resized).png

#848 44 days ago
Quoted from MurphyPeoples:

Guys - Can someone help me out here? I have the chest mod installed. Opens and closes nicely, and the lights work - but there is a problem....
Check out the video. When I start a game the servo actuates the chest lid as it "finds home". But once I start a game - the servo no longer moves or opens the chest. If I cut the game off, and back on again - same thing... servo finds home - lid opens - but never raises again. I played a game and locked 3 balls and went into multiball - but the chest never opened once. Very frustrating. Help troubleshooting this would be welcomed. - Murphy

Check your switch bend. It's probably not bent out quite far enough to detect fork down.

Alternately, if that doesn't work, with power on, raise the playfield, raise the forks and manually activate/deactivate the switch. If nothing happens you have a bad switch or bad wiring to the switch.

#850 44 days ago
Quoted from MurphyPeoples:

PinMonk to the rescue!!! This is exactly what was happening. The Mod switch wasn't fully closing with the forks in the down position. I simply tweaked the switch slightly and violá!
Working during game play now. Simply have to due some fine adjustments to get her to close and open perfectly. : ) - Murphy

Glad it was an easy adjustment instead of a bad switch!

#852 44 days ago
Quoted from gunstarhero:

Hey guys I’m working on the install now.
We had it working but the servo motion is really steppy, not smooth at all. I thought maybe we had too much drag on it but it does the same thing with the rod totally removed and no load at all.
Any thoughts?

You're probably just sensitive to the motion being done incrementally (or the servo's bad). Aside from doing it as a straight one command motion there's no way to get rid of the steppiness.

Do you have a short video of the motion?

#858 43 days ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Here's the chest mech cover. The left side sort of has a "crate" finish and the right is just flat right now. It needs a bit more modification to fit perfectly and we'll have to do something about the coil tabs. My coil isn't installed in this photo so it sits right down on the bracket. Of course it would likely be a much darker color, probably similar to the barrels we are making. I think a good solution for the coil tabs is just to put the "treasure" on top of there so the tabs have a place to sit. Also worried about the chest lid tab lining up on all of the lids. I think you can't see the cover so much where the cutout is so we could make it large enough. Not sure the scoop gate clears it either, more testing to do. Any thoughts?[quoted image][quoted image]

Angle both surfaces slightly to the outside on each side or it's a natural ball trap for airballs or missed canon shots.

#862 43 days ago
Quoted from JimWilks:

Installed the chest mod over the weekend, but ran into a problem. Once installed and powered. the mod does not move.
I removed it from the game and did a bench test with a 5V power supply and it works fine. Did a voltage check on the plug on the game and read 4.65V. With the mod on the bench power supply, I turned the voltage down to 4.65V and the mod does not move. Further testing shows a threshold of about 4.75 volts which must be met for the mod to move.
Is this a hardware limitation of the mod?
I have a tentative plan to install a 5V buck/boost regulator on the mod input, but am wondering if anyone else has seen this problem or has any other suggestions to fix.

Most likely the switch arm not bent out enough for the fork assembly to trigger it. Put the forks up and manually click the switch and see if the servo works.

Might also be the power connection to the fake nano board. Does the light come on on the circuit board?

#867 43 days ago
Quoted from JimWilks:

The problem is no operation at 4.65V which is what my game delivers. Switch and power connections are fine.

Is the light on the circuit board on (should still be able to see it through the shrink)? Because if it isn't, you have no power at the board.

#871 43 days ago
Quoted from JimWilks:

The Arduino can take 12V. What about the servo?

The servo maxes out at 6.5v, if I remember correctly. Giving it max 6.5v power will make it move quicker, but I don't think Arduino Nano (and knockoffs) can regulate down from 12v to a specific voltage.

#874 42 days ago

There's a completely unused ATX-style 5v connector in the head that's perfect for this.

#876 42 days ago
Quoted from Agima2000:

But he belongs to JJP Hardware, I prefer to be independent and isolated from the others.
I also use the power supply for other things, like the backbox lighting.
Maybe I'm too careful .[quoted image]

So you're plugging your alternate power into the wall outside the machine?

Also the 5v free plug is not shared with anything else, coming straight from the power supply, so it's regulated. Double plus.

#879 42 days ago
Quoted from Agima2000:

The power supply is connected to the switch of the flipper, no extra plug outside.
Not only do I need 5 volts for the chests mod, but also 12 volts for the backlight, and 5 volts for a time relay (STARTUP "POP" ELIMINATOR) replica of Scott.[quoted image]

You likely don't need 2x 5v leads, but just one if you have enough amps being fed for what you're pulling on the 5v line. So one 5v and one 12v would do it, which basically means 1 atx connector which has both.

#884 41 days ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

The only thing you mention that would be easier with the playfield out are the side art blades. Do yourself a favor and put a stool or something in front of the machine that is about that height (and wide enough to support the playfield supports) and slide the playfield out as far as you can (with the cables attached). Have someone help. It's stable if you have a good platform to set it on. The back half still sits on the machine. It will come out far enough that you can put the side art on without having to try and get around the playfield. I ruined mine trying to follow those instructions. WOZ I did this way and it was 1000 times easier. And cut them apart if they are on one sheet. And apply by placing them in position, tape them in place with blue painters tape and then peel only a small amount of backing off, starting at the front. Squeegy it on slowly, aligning for fine tuning and getting all bubbles out. A hair dryer will help smooth out any wrinkles or such.
Everything else you mentioned could/should be done in the game, no reason not to and you have to get under the playfield so unless you have a rotisserie it's not even worth contemplating.

Playfield-in side art blade installation is a snap with the wet method. The only way to do it. Like 10-15 minutes total to do both sides.

#886 41 days ago
Quoted from Heater:

I agree. Used the wet method and it was no problem getting them into that tight space. 10 mins max

I've done probably 10 machines' art blades that way and would not ever recommend doing it any other way. Makes it so simple, and no help required.

#888 41 days ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

I cringe when water has to be sprayed around wood and electronics but that is probably easier. The instructions made it sound like if you wrapped it around the playfield there would be no problem but the clearance on JJP games is so narrow that it inevitably sticks and you're screwed.

You're not spraying water anywhere near the electronics. You spray the soapy water on the blade on a table or the floor NOT at the machine, then take the blade to the machine and put it on and have a paper towel ready to wipe the excess water that comes out when you squeegee the blade to get out air once you have it positioned perfectly (which is VERY easy with wet soapy backing).

#890 41 days ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

OOOOH, glad people are smarter than me
Guess I'll get another set and have another go. The one thing that is preventing me is that these are already getting busted up by the playfield. I even installed velvety felt on the side of the playfield. I don't really want to install those $30 plastic protectors every time I want to raise the playfield. I have a design for, what I think is a better protector, and made a prototype but haven't found anyone to mass produce them. Even contacted the bent plastic guy but he was slow to non-responsive. Might just end up bending them myself but they need some assembly for the design I had in mind. I was adding on some features that would make them more than just inner cabinet protection. I think they would just end up costing too much for most people but I'll post about it and see.

The Stern official art blades are very good arcade console-type vinyl. Are the PotC blades that are getting chewed up thin paper-ish ones like AP did on Houdini? Those are the worst ones I've ever seen.

#901 40 days ago
Quoted from Zora:

I enclose a picture, you see that my prototype was high level science, lol. Simply bend a cord at the lid hole and the hole in the moving servo arm, where normally the rod is fixed, no big Thing.
As Scott explains, the thickness of the lid plastic together with the benting of the metal rod at the top leads to a moving/turning side pressure of the rod when teh lid opens. You can feel that when you push the rod down with your hand when the rod is not fixed at the servo. Due to the fixing of the rod, the turning movement is transferred to the top, which leads to a rough opening movement of the lid. The other disadvantage is that there is permanent pressure on the servo and the arm.
A cord avoids this pressure on servo/arm. However, my "prototype" Installation does not move smoothly, which seems to be due to the movement of the metal stick during the opening process. I think the crucial point is how to realize a smooth travel of the cord in the lid plastic whole during the opening. My next approach would be to use a metal washer with a pearl on top (see picture), just an idea. Very easy to install and the pearl moving during the opening might lead to a smooth opening, I will see. But everybody can test as well or contribute other ideas in this regard.[quoted image][quoted image]

If you just use the rod as intended (the other way around), there's no pressure/problem. Use the screw-on clip that comes with these on the threaded end for the servo snap-on and a slide-on barrel at the lid end. No problems.

#903 40 days ago
Quoted from Zora:

I installed it as Scott described in the install video. Especially bend the top of the metal rod a bit to the direction of the hole. Thus I get pressure on the rod during the opening.
But that brings me to another idea. Possibly, when using the rod, it is better to use a pearl at the top instead of a flat Clip, so that the rod can move easier. Buit just my 2 cents. Everybody on his/her own.

Here's the correct installation and orientation. Threads at the bottom by the servo to hold on to the clevis/clip that snaps onto the servo arm holes and then the barrel with the set screw at the top to hold the lid and because the barrel is rounded, there's no problems as it moves up and down on top of the chest lid tab.
chest-rod (resized).jpg

#920 39 days ago
Quoted from Psw757:

Need a little help, got it all installed.
When I power the game on the chest opens and closes as I would want, have good fit and alignment however when I test in game play by hitting the two shots the chest does not open and when a ball is fired into the chest, nothing either.
Any Ideas?

Your switch arm needs to be bent out more. It's not making enough contact with the fork mech rollers to open and close.

#922 39 days ago
Quoted from Psw757:

I’ll have to take a look at that, had me scratching my head because when I power the game on its friggin perfection, lol

That's the initialization routine from the board getting power. It doesn't require switch input.

#924 39 days ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

I think you've posted this exact reply like 5 or more times now

RIF, man, RIF.

I'd keypost it if I could, but I found out that people get upset when I keypost my own help posts, so I don't do it anymore.

#927 39 days ago

Also explain why it works when you power on but not any other time, and I'll keypost that post 925. (The politics of pinside that make something like this necessary are often ridiculous)

#929 39 days ago
Quoted from Psw757:

Just looked, switch definitely closed when forks up. Anything else it could be? It’s obviously not binding in power up because it looks perfect.

Put the forks up manually so they're out of the way and manually manipulate the switch. Do you hear a "click" when the arm's depressed? If you do, does the chest move?

If you're hearing the clicks and the chest still isn't moving, the switch may be bad or a wire is loose from the switch to the servo.

#931 39 days ago
Quoted from Psw757:

The forks are operating properly when targets are hit and time to load a ball.
This tells me switch is fine, correct?

Wrong switch. I'm talking about the switch on the assembly you just added. It has nothing to do with the switches that tell the forks to move that are part of the machine already.

assembly-switch-potc (resized).jpg
#933 39 days ago
Quoted from Psw757:

Shit...I’ve been f’ing with the wrong switch!
So that lower switch i just added needs better contact with rollers, correct?
Idiot just add beer and I did do that!

Yeah, just bend the arm out so it is triggered when the forks come down and released when they rise.

#946 38 days ago
Quoted from MurphyPeoples:

Mine stays closed until it tells me to lock a ball. I'm hoping this is right? Once I lock a ball it closes again.

That is correct. It matches the action of the chest on the screen.

#948 38 days ago
Quoted from Psw757:

The motion of the chest is slightly ahead of the animation on the display correct?

Dunno. I don't have the one you have. But I can't imagine it's perfectly synced.

#967 35 days ago
Quoted from paynemic:

So I reprogrammed my Arduino with the new code. Went reasonable well. But now my chest opens all the way then closes most of the way (when it should be wide open). Did I miss part of the instructions? Is there a homing routine or do I need to change something mechanical?

Are you using the star arm on the servo? If so, you probably have the rod on the wrong one.

#975 34 days ago
Quoted from zaphX:

harryhoudini Ive installed the chest mod for cheshirefilms and it seems to work perfectly except the state is inverted. It closes when it should open and vice versa.
Does flashing the software fix this?

Putting the rod on the opposite arm of the servo also fixes this.

#987 32 days ago
Quoted from Nepi23:

I have installed the mod today, but for some reason the chest does not seem to open or close...
I have followed HarryHoudini's instructions, but still it does not seem to work for me.
I attach some pics - where to start to diagnose, what went wrong?
Also in my installation the bracket touches a bit the clear plastic piece that apparently is there to protect
or to ensure no ball locks would take place. I draw a yellow arrow there. What have you done, have you
removed it altogether?
Thank you for any help![quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Does it move at all when you turn the power on to the machine initially? It should initialize automatically if it's getting power. If it's not initializing, it's not getting any power.

#990 32 days ago
Quoted from Nepi23:

Only the rod moves and the chest a bit. Have a look here:

Definitely too much slack in the rod.

Does it move during gameplay when the forks go up and down? If not, then you need to adjust the switch arm on the mod near the servo by bending it out a little more so the forks moving trigger it.

#992 32 days ago
Quoted from Nepi23:

Thanks for the tips!
Rotating the 4-wing arm 180 degrees did the trick. Now the lid opens and closes correctly.
The leds are glowing yellow color, I guess that is correct and they will display red at some other time? Or should I adjust the color to red as a default?
There seems to be another problem developed now though. Treasure Chest multiball does not seem to be able to start. Have a look at the video:

Any ideas what the correct here? Thank you![quoted image]

Either you accidentally bent the release arm away from the tiny coil a little too much when installing the hinge bracket (you can bend it back a little more towards the coil post so the coil can "grab it" and pull the door flap open) OR you need to increase the chest release time on the system menu so it holds the flap open a little longer.

1 week later
#1008 22 days ago
Quoted from javagrind888:

I'm having the hardest time bending the rod correctly to let the chest go all the way down. Every time I think I have it, after a game or two it starts to hang up and doesn't close all the way again. I think it's because I had to move the actuator arm to the other side and it's at a worse angle.

Sounds like you have the nut on top too tight.

#1011 22 days ago
Quoted from javagrind888:

I'll check it, but I could swear I only have it about halfway through the nut.

I prefer the barrel with a set screw on top and the thread-end with the clevis on the bottom, clipped onto the servo arm instead of the backwards other-way-round installation. Less chance for binding.
barrel-nut (resized).jpg

#1031 20 days ago
Quoted from javagrind888:

Ok, I can't find the type barrell nut that the servo uses with the screw to hold the rod or cable. Can anyone link it to me so I can buy one?

If you use the clevis on the servo end, this is the barrel nut that goes on the end by the chest:

amazon.com link »

1 week later
#1076 13 days ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

The problem is the lighting needs to shine through. Maybe I'll make cutouts for the LEDs. I'll test it out with dark brown filament to match the lid maybe. Good note.

Yeah, I just cut holes out for the LEDs on the one I did, but eventually I'll go back and try no holes and just diffuse the red light off the front inside lip of the chest. The holes work, but you can see pinpoint reflections of the two light sources in the locked balls. The perfectionist in me does not like that.
Lid-Bracket (resized).jpg

Even with one ball, you can see the reflection of one of the LEDs the way I did it, so I don't recommend it...
Cheat Heartbeat-min.gif

1 week later
#1105 2 days ago
Quoted from cooked71:

I’ve already loosened off the tension disc and that didn’t help. Must be the hole is too small - the Servo struggles to move it and it’s actually quite hard moving it even with my fingers. Can you re- use the tension disc if I take it off to enlarge the hole?

Yeah, I drilled mine out a smidge (but I used the clevis instead on the servo end that it's designed for). Works much better.

#1107 1 day ago
Quoted from cooked71:

I’ve already loosened off the tension disc and that didn’t help. Must be the hole is too small - the Servo struggles to move it and it’s actually quite hard moving it even with my fingers. Can you re- use the tension disc if I take it off to enlarge the hole?

This is what it looks like using the clevis those rods come with instead of the other connector. I prefer this connection for reliability. The two flaps are spring-loaded and have a little nub that grabs onto the hole on the servo wheel.
Clevis_PotC (resized).jpg

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