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(Topic ID: 244666)

JJPOTC Treasure Chest Open/Close mod, now working!

By pinballj

1 year ago

Topic Stats

  • 1,288 posts
  • 119 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 days ago by Jecco74
  • Topic is favorited by 90 Pinsiders


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Topic index (key posts)

4 key posts have been marked in this topic

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #7 Working prototype video Posted by pinballj (1 year ago)

Post #185 Everything needed to make your own chest-opening mod... Posted by pinballj (1 year ago)

Post #615 Code for lighting mod controller Posted by harryhoudini (1 year ago)

Post #925 Adjusting switch for mod when chest lid doesn't work Posted by harryhoudini (1 year ago)

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#472 1 year ago

GitHub working again!

What servo is being used here? I didn’t see that it the .ino sketch, and missed it if it’s in the thread somewhere..

Edit: never mind! Read the

1 week later
#513 1 year ago
Quoted from gumnut01:

Yeah Scott, fucking hurry up already!

ouch! Belay that talk sailor!

#531 1 year ago
Quoted from Soulrider911:

Great updates. Hey harryhoudini where can I find the code for the Rgb light? Thanks

did the github ever get updated with this? or forked?

#535 1 year ago
Quoted from Trooper11040:

that is something that Houdini is adding in his setup...not the original design

I get it. Seems like it would be something that should shared, since the entire mod is based on several different people's work.

#539 1 year ago
Quoted from gumnut01:

It’s a pretty affordable mod.

No question - I’m not complaining; this whole thing is just damn remarkable that everybody came together To figure out something that JJP gave up on! A lot of great mod ideas in that store too!

#565 1 year ago

image (resized).jpg

Like this

#571 1 year ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Ok, gonna talk with my wife and see how much it would take to change. If not easy enough to keep on track we'll give easy change instructions. I suppose both ways could work so two options.

The 4-way vs 2-way arm doesn’t seem to matter; its preferable to attach the servo using the spring clip - just one less part to come loose - but it will work fine either way.

1 week later
#616 1 year ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

There are no written instructions. There is a link to the instructions in the box and I'll be posting it here as well. Trying to finish up a few things and get the last video up. Either way I'll get something up so you guys can start installing.
On another note... As some had asked, here is the code for the finished lighting mod controller. It's a pretty big gut of the original code:

That is very cool of you. I wanted to roll my own chest mod, but it's a move like this that got me to start adding stuff to my shopping cart on the site. Very cool

#655 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballj:

Yeah Harryhoudini..check to see if you have the attach / detach calls in. From the commits:
If you do, and it is still chattering, my thought is that the servo is not able to "home its position". I would recommend:
1. Remove the servo arm from the servo
2. Make sure ramp is down
3. Turn game on and allow for servo to "home position "
4. Put servo arm back on (but not too much tension on the linkage, to allow servo to move).
Just my thoughts/opinions. Btw, excellent work for getting these manufacturered! I am terrible with keeping up with emails, let alone pinside in a timely fashion lol.

The detach statement definitely needs to be in the code, otherwise the Servo will eventually burn out

#661 1 year ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Ok, I'll add that in and provide instructions on how to update. Every dang resource I can find, even the Arduino examples, don't seem to use it or say not to.

This is a common thing with the Arduino examples - they get you started but don’t always follow all the way through for practical use

#675 1 year ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

Maelstrom switch? What was wrong with it?

Harry made a mod which hides the switch. I didn’t notice it until he pointed it out, but it is REALLY distracting once it’s on your radar

#728 1 year ago
Quoted from VillaThrills:

For the life of me I cannot get the Arduino programmed. Just never recognizes it is plugged in. Tried a PC and Mac. Tried 3 different usb cables. Tried with game powered on and powered off. I go into the port settings and never see the nano recognized as being attached. Any recommendations here?

There are also different drivers that you will need to find which are not installed automatically with the Arduino software.

#730 1 year ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Thanks rdoyle1978. I didn't do it on a Windows machine, haven't test if a VM will work. I believe it will so I can test on there and post a video too. Your video seems to be private.

Yes, if you have not received a shipping notice by now (which you will likely soon) then you will have the latest code installed.

Aah sorry, it wasn’t my video - looks like embedding is disabled. You just have to click the “watch on YouTube” link

This is required for a Windows deployment

#732 1 year ago
Quoted from VillaThrills:

Finally got it working. I am guessing the Nano is a knock off. Needed to download the CH340/341 drivers as the official Arduino drivers don't recognize the com chip. But thankfully all is good now. Will need to take another look as it seems to be rubbing somewhere a bit. But if anyone is having problems getting the port recognized, it is the USB driver. You can't use the official Arduino drivers.
Thanks Rdoyle1978!

You’re most welcome!

3 weeks later
#957 1 year ago
Quoted from JimWilks:

Got the boost regulator. Boy is it small!
[quoted image]
Installed it and mod is working fine now.
Sorry for the pic being out of focus, but you get the idea of size relative to a dime.

I think I may have this same issue! I did not order Scott's mod, but built it myself - I am following the exact connections, code, and setup as Jeremy's original setup, plus a couple of changes I've read about in the thread - and I'm getting basically the same behavior.

The servo moves a bit when first powered on, but then after that it just sort of hums and I hear an adjustment move here and there, but nothing occurs when the switch is triggered.

I haven't worked on this mod in a few weeks, having started on a game restore, but I went over everything today - switched to another Nano, even. Same behavior. I have not checked the debug log yet, so I will do that next and make sure the switch is being registered. Bummer, this one!

#960 1 year ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Have you plugged it in to an external power supply? That would give you a clear indication if it was a power supply issue from the game.

Good idea - I have not. I tried initially with the USB power, which was laughable. I'll find a 5V wall wart next

#971 1 year ago

Got it!

Turned out to be bad code, I think. Or perhaps the additional LED code (I have not added the heartbeat LED strip)

Once I reverted back to Fleitz’s latest .ino from github, it worked immediately. Weird! KILLER MOD!

#972 1 year ago

Also, having gone through all the assembly, troubleshooting and purchasing of the raw materials, I want to wholeheartedly say that I think scott’s price is INCREDIBLY fair.

#982 1 year ago
Quoted from zaphX:

It's a great mod. After seeing it in action, the game seems so broken without it.

Totally agree - it is very cool, every time you see it

#983 1 year ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Sounds like you got it Glad to hear it went relatively smoothly.

Yeah, I have those videos open in FinalCut.. just need to do it. We had no idea what we were getting in to, lol. I owe my wife big time for doing a lot of the soldering and production. It was a good learning experience and gave us a push to make more mods, so all good.

You're good. I had an early version of 1.1 where I changed the rotation direction and that got confusing. Right now all the code versions go the same direction, it's just my video that is wrong.

If you used the code I posted there are some changes, I think, to the way pinballj had his connections laid out. I could look at his prototype and compare if you want to know. I can post a pic of the controller wiring and such laid out if you want to duplicate it.

Thanks Scott - I didn’t think to check. I’ll read through the updated code. Were there further updates? There are only 5 connections to the board for the servo mod, so I’ll just read through the .ino more carefully. I thought I checked the servo control connection (which I have wired to D10), but I didn’t check the switch connections.

#985 1 year ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Here's a pic.
D10 servo white wire
D3 is lighting DIN green
D2 Switch red
D5-D8 keypad controller
Ground IN from game goes to switch black, servo black, lighting black, GND on board
Power DC+ IN from game goes to servo red, lighting red and VIN on board
Power DC- IN from game goes to GND on board
[quoted image]

NICE! Thanks for that

1 week later
#1017 1 year ago
Quoted from Zora:

Might be too thick and is a bit stiff. I would prefer a soft cord or nylon. But give it a try, perhaps it works.

Something you need to be careful of is to ensure that whatever material your cord or rod is made from, it must not stretch, or eventually the chest will fail to open, or open sluggishly

#1029 1 year ago

That flexible pushrod is a pretty darn good idea. I am going to see if I can add some sort of a sheath to mine to avoid the potential of it constantly rubbing on wires

#1056 1 year ago

Rblockquote cite="#5240821">Awesome, glad it's working. Thanks! It's mostly due to pinballj, we just packaged up his idea. He made the impossible, possible for $130 or whatever it is. Less cost if you have way too much time on your hands and an ability to do too many things way too well.

You’re selling short the work you’ve put into packaging this thing up so well! I think I said it before, but $130 is a great price considering the BOM and the time involved.

I did mine DIY, and it works great - but add together buying everything, sorting out how to connect the wires, soldering, 3D printing... this package is priced awesome, and from what I’ve seen it is a very high quality product. AND this is a must-have mod, there is no question.

#1062 1 year ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

We have an almost done version of the rear cover, btw. We are finishing a detailed, extensive WOZ mod that will be posted shortly and then back to that cover and some other POTC things.

What's the gameplan for the rear cover?

#1064 1 year ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

To start just a black "cover" that hides everything. Replaces the clear plastic that is there, cutout for the lid if you have the mod. Then we are working on treasure to cover it or maybe a rowboat, as optional toppers.

sounds very cool!

#1072 1 year ago
Quoted from luckymoey:

It's extremely reasonable given the amount of effort to design and make: $180 w. lighting and $125 without. Here's the website:

1000% agree

#1073 1 year ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

FYI, I believe all the clear lexan lids are gone. I'll print in transparent PETG. The only real visual difference is this is not a clear, solid piece of plastic but will work just as well.

IMO this is better - if you can print in black you never see it. Not sure about the clear lid but lighter colors (I printed mine in grey at first) are too noticeable. I'm thinking of working on a shroud for the fork that will cover that right-hand corner of the trunk. That bugs me every time it opens.

#1080 1 year ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

I think we have 4 LEDs with the 5050 lights we used (I tried to put in 5 but it was just a bit too long). Then I just got in the 300 light strings which has them spaced like mm apart so I could probably put in like 8, lol. I think the lexan, as clear as it is, diffuses it just a little bit. I think more LEDs and dimmer would probably be better?
How about diffusing the light with a thin bit of plastic? I have the plastic we use for "window glass" which I frost with some spray, I think I'll try that as a diffuser.

Very interesting ideas! I like the concept of diffusing the light with that spray. That’s a great idea

#1090 1 year ago
Quoted from arzoo:

Are these necessary? I've yet to install the mod so I don't know if I need this?

They are not absolutely necessary. Mine has a straight rod and it is totally fine. I was super careful about where I threaded it and have tied back some of the wires, so you can get away with it. I think the flexible rod may give you some more slack if it is not installed perfectly to the millimeter. I am a tiny bit concerned over time the rod may stretch or lose
Some elasticity, but I have no proof of this actually occurring .

1 week later
#1120 12 months ago
Quoted from arzoo:

Just wanted to mention what great customer service Harry provides; Yesterday I started the open/close chest mod install and due to a minor pre-assembly issue the main bracket broke. I wasn't overly concerned because I had actually purchased a second mod as a backup. When I compared the two brackets I noticed the difference and what caused the part to break (micro switch screws installed on the wrong side). Anyway, I figured no big deal, I'll just install the second bracket and contact Harry later. But my happiness quickly turned to cursing "You've to got by F'ING KIDDING ME!" when I dropped the second bracket and it also broke (totally my fault).
Long story short, I pm'd Harry with my situation and within a couple hours he responded that he would send out two new brackets, no questions asked. Now that's great customer service!
I should also add that I don't think either of these breaks were due to poor manufacturing, just bad luck.
[quoted image][quoted image]

NICE. Too bad about the break. These things are still made with tiny strings of plastic that get melted together - it's going to break eventually if you're putting pressure on one of those seams between layers. One good thing about the chest bracket itself is that all the pressure is displaced laterally on the bracket, and it will be much less likely to have an breakage issue.

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