(Topic ID: 244666)

JJPOTC Treasure Chest Open/Close mod, now working!

By pinballj

4 years ago


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Post #7 Working prototype video Posted by pinballj (4 years ago)

Post #185 Everything needed to make your own chest-opening mod... Posted by pinballj (4 years ago)

Post #615 Code for lighting mod controller Posted by harryhoudini (4 years ago)

Post #925 Adjusting switch for mod when chest lid doesn't work Posted by harryhoudini (4 years ago)


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#684 4 years ago

Hey Harry, got everything installed and adjusted properly with chest lighting but the chest is not opening/closing during gameplay. Also getting the chest chatter/movement that everyone is talking about. When I initially power the game on the chest opens and closes without any hangup and then stays closed throughout gameplay with a little chatter here and there. Any ideas as to what might be going on?

#688 4 years ago

Did that and the switch is depressed when forks are down. That's the way it should be right?

#689 4 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

Check the switch with the forks down and see if the arm is bent out enough on the switch to be triggered. I bet the switch isn't triggering.

I'll take a look at it again...thanks.

#692 4 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

But if you force the arm down a little more, does the switch base click? If it still has room to click, it's not registering.

Did you get the lighting? If so, can you see it on inside the chest?

When the forks are down and resting on the arm of the switch I can't make it click by manually forcing the arm up. But, I will check it again and maybe bend the arm a little more than it is to see if that makes a difference. Yes, the lighting mod inside the chest is working. It stays on all the time in the heartbeat mode, stays on with chest closed...hope that is right...

#694 4 years ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Yeah, flick the switch (hold it down) to make sure it is clicking and the servo activates. You can push the forks up manually (side the white bushings on the side up, the ones that contact the switch) to get them out of the way. If the servo moving when the switch activates then I would make sure the switch connection is good (the red plug in the bundle of wires).

Btw, we do test every one when we install the code initially. We run through all of the functions with the actual switch and servo that get shipped with.

Thanks, I will check all that. My wife is forcing me out of the house at the moment but I will check it when I get back and let you know what I find out.

#695 4 years ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Nope, that's indicative of the switch not working. Push the forks up out of the way and try clicking the switch. It has to stay depressed for 500ms to activate. When it activates the lights should shut off and the servo should move. If neither of those are happening then there is a problem with the switch or the connection to the board. Either way we'll get you parts shipped out to replace.

I'll check this and let you know...thanks.

#701 4 years ago
Quoted from Meadowhawk:

I'll check this and let you know...thanks.

Okay did this and the light stays on and servo doesn't move.

Quoted from PinMonk:

If the lights are always "beating" then that likely means the switch is always on or wired wrong.

So with the playfield raised and power on, if the forks are UP and the lights in the chest are on, will manually closing the switch with your hand so it clicks turn them off? Or even when the switch clicks closed manually with your hands the lights stay on?

Did this too and the lights stay on. I'll check the connections next.

#704 4 years ago

Just stumbled on Buffalo Pinball doing a livestream install of the actuating chest mod...cool!

#712 4 years ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Yeah, flick the switch (hold it down) to make sure it is clicking and the servo activates. You can push the forks up manually (side the white bushings on the side up, the ones that contact the switch) to get them out of the way. If the servo moving when the switch activates then I would make sure the switch connection is good (the red plug in the bundle of wires).

Hey Scott, I believe I found the problem, the solder connection to the middle post of the switch came loose and was not connected. I'll resolder in the morning and retest it, thanks.

7 months later
#1226 4 years ago
Quoted from VolunteerPin:

A little trouble after install. See enclosed videos in 2 parts.
Basically the rod seems to be interfering with the 'gate' and the coil assembly. The rod is pressing on the little tab and not allowing the gate to open all the way to release balls. Also, the tab seems to mechanically hold up the lid about 1/8" or so intermittently. I hope these vids help.
Part 1 of 2:
Part 2 of 2:
Thanks.

I'm having the same problem and I will probably go back to the metal rod instead of using the flex rod. Your flex rod looks a little long, is it possible to re-route the flex rod through the round hole to the right? I haven't messed with mine yet but I was going to look at that option or go back to the metal rod. I never had any issues with the metal one.

#1228 4 years ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Man, crazy how some games are slightly different than others. I can make a different lid which has the tab moved over a bit to clear that piece more. I've seen oddities like this on a few JJP games for different reasons (like someone I was just talking to had their playfield sit higher in the game than any other one I've dealt with).
volunteerpin your rod does look a bit too long, but not sure that will change the orientation of the rod at the lid. I can send you a lid which has the tab moved towards the right more (away from the coil) to help with the clearance issue. It makes the rod have to bend more but that isn't a huge problem.
Let me know if either you or meadowhawk want to try a different lid orientation. You'll need to swap lighting over and the ball joint but that is easy.

It would work for me if the lid tab was a bit longer, then it would clear the spring. What do you think?

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