(Topic ID: 244666)

JJPOTC Treasure Chest Open/Close mod, now working!


By pinballj

4 months ago



Topic Stats

  • 1,108 posts
  • 99 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 14 hours ago by harryhoudini
  • Topic is favorited by 84 Pinsiders

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Topic index (key posts)

4 key posts have been marked in this topic

Post #7 Working prototype video Posted by pinballj (4 months ago)

Post #185 Everything needed to make your own chest-opening mod... Posted by pinballj (3 months ago)

Post #615 Code for lighting mod controller Posted by harryhoudini (69 days ago)

Post #925 Adjusting switch for mod when chest lid doesn't work Posted by harryhoudini (39 days ago)


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#808 53 days ago

I just got the kit and am installing it. The odd thing is that the servo seems to be moving backwards. When I close he switch, the servo moves counterclockwise. If I hook up he rod the way the installation video show, that would open the lid when the fork moves down. Switch opens, and the servo moves clockwise.

I can move the rod 180 degrees on the servo, more to the 3 o’clock position, but that is opposite of what I think the install idea shows.

#810 53 days ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Yea, I need to update that video apparently. I was backwards when it was made.

Good to know I am not completely nuts.

If you don’t mind a suggestion, it would be nice to add a bit about removal of the chest top. It is a bit jarring to go from the second to the third / fourth videos.

Also, in order to tighten down the screws to the fork bracket, I ended up temporarily removing the bottom left PCB. Otherwise I just could not get the screwdriver in there.

Your videos are great. Clear to understand and straight to the point.

#812 53 days ago

It looks like I got this mod working. Thanks for the kit.

IMHO, it might be easier if I had two nuts on the rod - to lock the lid in place. One above and one below the tab to the lid. Unfortunately, I did not have a nut small enough to put on the rod. I tried a plastic wire tide and it made setting up for me easier. The complication was that I had to take the arm off the motor to slip the wire in, since the lower nut locked it on the chest. But without that, the chest seemed to hang up on the rod and ride it up. Bending the rod helped there. But the second nut would really lock it in.

The plastic shield covering the solenoid interfered with the tab on the lid attached to the rod. So I used a dremel to grind the corner down (photos attached). Lots of small towels to keep the debris from the playfield.

The movement of the rod also tends to touch the wires to the solenoid in the back of the chest. I don't think that is a wear issue. I moved them out of the way the best I could.

I also found what keeps the rear of the lid from going all the way down - the plastic insert you provided is thicker and that hits the black metal ball guide on the right side. Nothing I could see to fix that. I would not want to have to remove that black ball guide and grind it. And making the insert on the top thinner might make it too weak.

I need to wrap up some wires where I cut the ties, but other than that, it is good to go.

First pic is the plastic cover for the solenoid prior to grinding. Second is after.

Third shows the metal ball guide that I think keeps the top from coming down because it hits the insert in the top.

Cheers!

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1 week later
#870 43 days ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Like vireland said you could do it without removing, I wasn't able to get my socket in there so I did the coil removal part.
The optos are 3 black tabs starting just in front of that coil (along the back of the actual chest). If they do come out of place you'll know it. The game will continually try to kick out a ball from the chest (because the opto switch isn't closed). You could probably see it dangling there too. Sometimes you can pop it back in to place, they are pressure fit clips. If the clip breaks or it won't stay, a dab of hot glue gives you a pretty good fix. Probably better than the original. Breaking the entire opto would be pretty difficult, I've messed with mine a TON and while I've had tabs break (I had to replace my chest bracket, relocating all 6 optos) gluing them back on was a good fix and they all work fine.

I did not even realize they were there, I think. I did not remove them, nor have any problems with the optos. Perhaps I was just lucky.

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