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(Topic ID: 244666)

JJPOTC Treasure Chest Open/Close mod, now working!

By pinballj

1 year ago

Topic Stats

  • 1,288 posts
  • 119 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 10 days ago by Jecco74
  • Topic is favorited by 90 Pinsiders


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Topic index (key posts)

4 key posts have been marked in this topic

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Post #7 Working prototype video Posted by pinballj (1 year ago)

Post #185 Everything needed to make your own chest-opening mod... Posted by pinballj (1 year ago)

Post #615 Code for lighting mod controller Posted by harryhoudini (1 year ago)

Post #925 Adjusting switch for mod when chest lid doesn't work Posted by harryhoudini (1 year ago)

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#24 1 year ago

I want one!

#52 1 year ago
Quoted from delt31:

Haha I get your point though. Hopefully OP changes mind or someone takes these like mod couple and sell them

I agree! Most of us don’t own a 3D printer, you know?

#77 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballj:

I thought it was removed do to inconsistent ball locking , but no clue if that was due to the fork mech not raising or something else. I did the servo method to have something completely separate "powering" the lid. Worst case if there were rejects with the servo, you can just simply unplug it and turn the servo to the location you want the lid to be at in a fixed position

So are you planning on selling the mod?

#94 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballj:

Good job though on getting this working!!
I must say I like this too for the simplicity, but I like the open/close to be less drastic and slower (creepier?). I actually slowed down the servo a bit when it opens, and made it close a little faster on purpose.
Just a quick update on the servo version:
Testing over the weekend (Father's day) went great. The chest never locked up, it open a closed when you expected, no ball rejects, etc.
There is one minor change I am doing to the bracket (moving the micro switch just a little bit) and I think I can call that part finalized, which then I will get that uploaded.
I found a place that can make the metal brackets, and I am just waiting for a quote on what that will cost.
I will upload the plans, Bill of Materials, and a link to the source again when all is done.
Kit-wise: It will prob be a week or so before knowing what this will all cost. I will do a call-to-order when I have all of the info to share.
Last but not least, the spot right behind the treasure chest where I made a temporary cover in white in the video, I am working on a mount that will both hide the hinge better, and allow for the first mate of Davey Jones to guard the chest (using one of those 7" toys you use to replace Tortuga Tom):

I agree!

1 week later
#128 1 year ago

I also like the servo idea. Hopefully kits are available soon!

#138 1 year ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

FYI, I'm going to try and work with pinballjj to make kits commercially available.

You rock Harry!

#154 1 year ago
Quoted from Schabs81:

This is great is this easy enough for a average person to do?


#157 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballj:

It is not too bad.
For the DIY:
It takes you longer to cut the metal plate and 3d print the bracket.
Soldering is not too bad.. just 7 connections to solder (3 for servo, 2 for switch, 2 for power).
The rest is wire ties and screws.
Final bracket, plate pattern and source for the arduino will be uploaded and link will be provided in this thread.
For the kit:
harryhoudini is going to make up a kit that is available. Of course the kit needs to be made first, but I would think a person comfortable already with installing a mod in some capacity could handle this in half an hour or so.

Awesome video! The chest works flawlessly!

#166 1 year ago

Respectfully asking to keep this thread focused on the awesome chest mod and not on game play strategy. Thanks!

#179 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballj:

I thought about that, but really wanted to keep this completely isolated from the game itself. Just to avoid any interference with the playfield switch matrix etc. Definitely doable though using two inputs on the arduino to trigger when: strobe is low to the switch and the output of the switch is low. That would require connecting (soldering?) Into the existing switch though.

I agree with you. Keep it isolated from the game itself.

#189 1 year ago

I’m confused, Do we have to print the bracket ourselves or is this bracket sold at thingiverse?

#195 1 year ago
Quoted from vireland:

I don't know where you live, but lots of libraries have 3D printers now and you can print one there if your library has them. Also check your town for services that offer 3D prints.

Cool!!! Thanks!

#205 1 year ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Cool. I guess this is more of a group buy. I found most of the parts in larger bulk quantities and it should save like $15 ea in part costs alone. All prime amazon to me, so really not a lot of additional cost on shipping. The 3D parts should be pretty inexpensive. I am just waiting on a few more pieces to come in to place so I can get a proper cost. I have a sample of the 3D part from pinballj coming (and the hinge) and a sample of the 3D part coming from Geteos who is doing all the printing so I can make sure they are the same and do a test fit. I'll plan on programming the arduinos and making all the connectors for a plug and play install. I have parts ordered for both install methods (it's like pennies to add both options) so you can choose.

Add me to the list of buyers

#214 1 year ago
Quoted from Geteos:

Got one bracket done to ship to harryhoudini This is a pretty long print.[quoted image]

Love the awesome team work!

#282 1 year ago
Quoted from vireland:

Ha! Even roughing it out, I spent way more time on this than I should have. This is a rough print. If you go to .15 or .10 it can look much better.
Here's the Nano enclosure. There are two channels (left and right) inside the enclosure, under the board to run the wiring down to the end of the box and out so it has a clean look. This just has the two switch leads attached for the picture.
[quoted image]
I have no idea what heat these generate, so I vented the top, just in case.
[quoted image]
Then the Nano enclosure snaps into the modified bigger bracket. Since it takes so long to print a full bracket, I only printed the base of that area to test the fit. It just clips in and out. Pretty nice.
[quoted image]
I'm printing the revised big bracket now that I've added some cable management to to clean it up. Once I get this all done, I'll post the revised big bracket and the nano box.

What’s this for? Sorry guys, confused

#293 1 year ago
Quoted from vireland:

The existing bracket just has a block and a space to zip-tie the Nano to it, which looks...messy. This cleans everything up and puts it in a clip-on block and has hooks to manage the wires so the install will be much cleaner.

Thanks for the explanation! Is this going to be included in HH’s kit? Or is this going to be sold separately?

#380 1 year ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Here are the Mouser part numbers for the power connector if anyone wants to build one. I am using the larger gauge .093 crimp connectors because I'm using larger wire for the passthrough and it was tight today with th smaller connectors. I don't think my crimp tool even supports them, damnit.
Mouser #: 571-14806990
Mfr. #: 1-480699-0
Desc.: Pin & Socket Connectors Pin & Socket Connectors CAP HOUSE 2 POS
Mouser #: 571-3505501
Mfr. #: 350550-1
Desc.: Pin & Socket Connectors Pin & Socket Connectors SOCKET 20-14 AWG
Mouser #: 571-3505471
Mfr. #: 350547-1
Desc.: Pin & Socket Connectors Pin & Socket Connectors PIN 20-14 AWG
Mouser #: 571-14806980
Mfr. #: 1-480698-0
Desc.: Pin & Socket Connectors Pin & Socket Connectors PLUG HOUSE 2 POS

Is all this other stuff going to be included in the kit?

#383 1 year ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

EVERYTHING will be included

Thanks! Sorry about the inquiry, but this is getting a bit too high tech for me

#390 1 year ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Yeah, I mean I have all the stuff here already so if someone wants I light I can add that in. I'll figure out what the parts cost and add it to the site.

Did you post a Video of the light in action by any chance?

#396 1 year ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

I'll send you a light if you want.

I think the light mod looks great and I think you are doing a fantastic job Harry! Thanks!

1 month later
#674 1 year ago
Quoted from BladeFury:

Got the Chest Mod and Maelstrom switch upgrade done! Incredible work man! Played about 15 games and everything kicking butt...worth every penny!

Maelstrom switch? What was wrong with it?

#747 1 year ago
Quoted from McSirTuna:

adamross 3-4 hours is possible. But if I had to do it again and didn't run into the issues I did, then I could certainly see it taking much less ~1 hour. I personally move slow / methodical when I'm installing mods. Sometimes you may drop screws and that can easily burn an extra 20 minutes finding them. Things happen anytime you dig into a machine. But as previously stated, I don't regret it a bit. It's a really great modification that is worth the time it takes to install. Scott's instructions are VERY good and make it easy to follow along.
The install rod should be included.

I personally love your videos. They are very helpful and I hope you keep making more. Thanks!

3 weeks later
#895 1 year ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

HA, that's smart! I am guessing that pressure is due to the way the rod goes through the lid hole. If the rod is bent forward at like 3-5 degrees then when it pulls down and the lid tips it will slide through the hole without binding up. At least that is my experience. But yeah, some steel wire or nylon cord probably does pretty well.[quoted image]

What did JJPinball used?

#899 1 year ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

That is my bad... I am updating that when I can, but it's pinballj. I'm slightly dyslexic. Now it affects the URL's, lol.. so I have to fix that with the new website that I'm putting up soon.
He used the same rod, our mod is basically what he designed. His lid was thinner so I think it was less of an issue. Once you kink the rod it sort of becomes obvious that it should be kinked because it sort of orients itself in the hole, if you see what I mean. I can do a quick video of the bending process I used if that would help.

It’s actually my bad! I knew there was a J somewhere. My apologies

#907 1 year ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Your lid is probably thinner than the ones we produced

You made some?

#951 1 year ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Like a 2d vertical piece of plastic with a decal on it?
I think I'd rather go like the "beach scene" with some treasure and palm trees. Doesn't that jive with the treasure chest?

IMO, anything you put there must be proportionate to the chest. The chest is huge and if you add tiny palm trees or tiny rowboats they will look out of place. Why not add some gold or something along those lines? Or just hide it with a decal. Less is more IMO

#953 1 year ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Gold = treasure/loot, that was one of the ideas.
Row boat would be as big as the chest but only about the top half of the boat.
I don't think an out of proportion beach scene would look out of place, it would be more like forced perspective (think cinderella castle in disneyland).
Working on some options, we'll see what looks good. I'm partial to the loot option but I'll likely print at least the row boat to see what it looks like.
If less is more, a black box would be the ideal one. Hardly visible, no lights really shine on it. I think we'll offer the box as a base and then a topper of your choosing.

I love the treasure/loot idea! Interested to see the row boat too. I do see what you mean about the beach scene....

#962 1 year ago
Quoted from zaphX:

harryhoudini I'm installing one of these for a local friend tomorrow. The only thing I am unclear on is the removal of the existing lid, does this require Pearl removal?

He posted a really cool video on his site. Pretty easy IMO.

#964 1 year ago
Quoted from zaphX:

I must have missed it. I reviewed the install instruction videos which started with the parts and ended with the alternate rod setup. Did not see one for the initial chest disassembly?

Look at post 826

#976 1 year ago

Does anybody have a video of the lighting mod?

#997 1 year ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Yup, that's another common reason. Can't use chrome balls, apparently.

What kind then?

1 week later
#1026 1 year ago
Quoted from mslow:

The flexible pushrod kit comes with short metal threaded rods that screw into the plastic yellow pushrod at each end. I trimmed the length of the yellow plastic with a razor blade. And screwed in the metal rod using needle nose pliers to hold the threaded rod. I used the clevis that came with the yellow pushrod and connected it to the servo. I used the original nut that came with the mod kit on the other end of the yellow rod. I did slightly bend the threaded rod at the trunk end to help with alignment. Once you have the yellow push rod all constructed and have the proper length figured out, cut the outer red tube to a shorter length than the Yellow pushrod and mount or glue it in place. The red is a stationary conduit that the yellow travel through.

Can you post a picture of it installed please?

#1028 1 year ago
Quoted from mslow:

Sure![quoted image][quoted image]

Perfect! Thanks!

#1035 1 year ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

I can send you one, I think we have extras.

Brilliant solution. I've ordered some and I'll post a video of the install for anyone who wants to change over.
The biggest issues I've seen with the rod hanging up are either on the playfield (gotta bend it around the slot) or through the hole in the chest lid bracket. Unless it's bent at the lid about 5-10 degrees and oriented properly (the rod will "sit" in place when it is bent) it will get hung up.
lancelin2k14 I think we got you sorted over email, let me know if you are still having issues.

That would be great!

#1043 1 year ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

I have the devices in hand ready to wire up if anyone wants one. I'll figure out the cost. It would plug and play, you would do nothing apart from plugging it in.

Is this for extra power?

3 weeks later
#1132 12 months ago
Quoted from addams40:

If you want to be able to change the light color of your chest Harry Houdini pinball mod co. Made me a extension cable so I can run it all the way to the coin door . Just tucked in along JJP harness along side. 5-minute job. Now I don’t have to lift the playfield all the way up just to change the colors or make it pulse . Thanks again pinball mod co[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

1 month later
#1150 10 months ago
Quoted from vireland:

It's very easy to pop out the optos on the back side of the chest when you're installing the mod, so my guess is maybe the first two have come loose from their snap-in holes OR you broke the legs off the opto that snap into the hole. It's VERY easy to do this. If they're loose and both sides of the snap-in connector legs are still there, squeeze them together gently with needlenose pliers before you attempt to snap them back in the hole. What usually happens is they get bent wide, and when you try to push it back in (blind), you bend one leg to the outside of the hole instead of in it, and that leg now weakens or snaps off, and only one leg goes in the hole, which isn't enough to hold the opto on. So, if it IS the optos, and you are lucky enough that that just came loose, but each snap-in peg still has both legs, be VERY CAREFUL popping them back in.

Do you have a picture of this?

#1152 10 months ago
Quoted from vireland:

Picture of the optos that are easy to pop out accidentally when doing the trunk mod?

I haven’t installed the chest mod yet nor have I messed with it, so I really don’t know where these optos are at.

#1154 10 months ago
Quoted from vireland:

I'll take a pic of the ones I'm talking about so you can be careful when you do the mod.

Awesome! Thank you!

2 weeks later
#1158 10 months ago
Quoted from vireland:

I'll take a pic of the ones I'm talking about so you can be careful when you do the mod.

Could You please post a pic when you get a chance? Thanks!

#1160 10 months ago
Quoted from vireland:

Hmm, I thought I did already....


2 weeks later
#1174 9 months ago


Do you guys have this gap on the rear part of the lid?

I’ve done numerous adjustments already and nothing seems to work. The front part is flush but not the back. Was thinking of sanding/dremeling the area where the hinge is at to lower the lid a little. Not sure if it will weaken the whole assembly though.
EA04AAEC-7995-44EB-B5EB-41B03CB5B531 (resized).jpeg8EFB5FBC-B9F8-4FE6-9C28-9EE9578DEAB0 (resized).jpeg4341E3DF-AAA3-464D-B89F-E2D00A8D586D (resized).jpeg9BB8EA90-0A1C-4106-9876-D33282CE32C5 (resized).jpeg

#1176 9 months ago

I sanded the black 3D printed lid a little bit and I think it went down a tad. Do you agree?

If the gap is normal, I guess I should go on to the next stage....
632D0585-8C8F-489A-9A24-9B604415CFE3 (resized).jpeg

#1178 9 months ago
Quoted from luckymoey:

The back of my lid is about the same as your last post but the front sits more even.

Could you post a pic please?

#1180 9 months ago
Quoted from Zora:

I have similar space in the back, but put some foam in the front to have a better/cleaner closure of the lid.[quoted image][quoted image]

Thanks! Nice looking skull man!

The chest works but for some reason it doesn’t open all the way. This is as high as it goes. This is my first crack at it so I’m sure there is some sort of a fix for this....

F5230E99-69A2-45B8-8B32-D3862D3CC8EF (resized).jpeg
#1185 9 months ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

That's the old rod, with the new flex one you have to trim it if it is too long, which I think might be the case here.

It’s trimmed and the clevis gives me the flexibility to thread it up or down if I need more or less length

#1186 9 months ago
Quoted from MurphyPeoples:

Okay - how can I order this new "flex rod"??? : )

The new flex rod threads into the swing arm thingy, no need For any nut. But it’s more precise. Not sure If bending the rod would help in my case

#1187 9 months ago

Does the chest have to be open Or closed when the rod is installed and attached to the servo arm? Does it matter?

#1188 9 months ago

Is there a way to test it without having to start a new game?

#1190 9 months ago
Quoted from zaphX:

The chest mod responds to the fork position, so device test fork ought to work.


#1191 9 months ago

Could you guys help me out before the game starts? Lol

Who here has the new flex rd that threads into a swing arm?

#1192 9 months ago

Does the game start with the chest open or closed?

#1193 9 months ago

So after many many adjustments, I think I got it for the most part. I cut the length of the flex rod and made other adjustments and it’s looking pretty good.

The only thing that sorta bothers me is the fact that after the chest is fully closed I can still hear the servo moving for an extra second or so.

Is this how it’s supposed to be? Is the servo being overworked because of this? Will it fail is left the way it is? Should I cut the length of the flex rod even more?

Going up it’s pretty much perfect....

86056238-0B3C-4701-BC7A-774C204C210B (resized).jpeg
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