(Topic ID: 244666)

JJPOTC Treasure Chest Open/Close mod, now working!

By pinballj

4 years ago


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Post #7 Working prototype video Posted by pinballj (4 years ago)

Post #185 Everything needed to make your own chest-opening mod... Posted by pinballj (4 years ago)

Post #615 Code for lighting mod controller Posted by harryhoudini (4 years ago)

Post #925 Adjusting switch for mod when chest lid doesn't work Posted by harryhoudini (4 years ago)


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#32 4 years ago

AWESOME!! YES PLEASE!

-1
#44 4 years ago

When I lock a ball can it go up and down like the cookie monster?

No; like Trex in JP

#56 4 years ago

I'll warehouse and retail them if someone wants to do the printing and dirty work, when it comes time. Heck, I probably have a source for the printing (the other mods) if someone wants them produced commercial and OP is ok with that. I have other unrelated retail online operations already and am launching a new mod sales site shortly to handle some other stuff I've developed.

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#69 4 years ago

Maybe I'm slow.. or missing something... but OP used a servo, right?

And the concept is that the original method to do this was going to be using the same lifting mechanism as the forks but was never implemented? I would ponder why it was scrapped? Is it just cost for parts or I am wondering if the forks will not have enough power to lift the lid or quickly enough? Otherwise that seems like a quick and easy solution.

-1
#72 4 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

There was a reliability issue in the field. What part was unreliable, I don't know. BUT it seems like the servo method would be less jarring for the whole assembly. Given how thin those mounts are for the chest, I can see them breaking if it's being banged open and closed with the force of the forks.

I can see them breaking even without that

#76 4 years ago
Quoted from pinballj:

I thought it was removed do to inconsistent ball locking , but no clue if that was due to the fork mech not raising or something else. I did the servo method to have something completely separate "powering" the lid. Worst case if there were rejects with the servo, you can just simply unplug it and turn the servo to the location you want the lid to be at in a fixed position

Makes sense to me! I'd love the snap open close but I imagine there is some issue with it.

#95 4 years ago

I don't think "balls locked" is an issue really because the number of balls in the chest does not always equate to the number locked. I was tossing around the idea of some lights on the front of the chest that used the optos to show you how many balls were in the chest. But seems overly complicated.

I too vote for the servo, but to each their own. After dealing with replacing the chest bracket and seeing just how flimsy it is and how easily it will shear again I would rather let something else die that I can easily replace and is cheap like a servo. Plus, I imagine the servo can do a lot more than just open close with the forks.

Has anyone thought about doing the forks method in the opposite direction? Use a radial spring on the hinge to keep the lid open and when the forks go down use a linkage to close the lid? Might be more work than the prototype method but seems like it could introduce a lot less stress into the whole thing.

1 week later
17
#137 4 years ago

FYI, I'm going to try and work with pinballjj to make kits commercially available.

#142 4 years ago
Quoted from gumnut01:

Big thanks for allowing us that want to to do it ourselves. No offence Harry. I gotta keep costs down some how!!!

I have no idea what is going to be required, but hopefully with scale and bulk it shouldn't be more or much more than doing it yourself. Unless you're going to do the 3D printing yourself and the bracket creation, then probably cheaper. But yeah, for people who want a simple install kit, then we should be able to produce this.

#144 4 years ago
Quoted from gumnut01:

It’s great your doing it Harry. Not saying you would make millions out of it! It’s the international postage that can get me. If I need to get stuff from Marco anyway, you might end up posting cheaper. Plus I get to come back to you for warranty issues!! Hmmmmm.

HAH. Read my warranty policy oh... I don't have one. Crap.

I could maybe help you out with Marco too, I always am ordering stuff from them. Maybe I can combine your stuff.

#182 4 years ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

I agree with you. Keep it isolated from the game itself.

Agreed. I tried to not tamper with any existing game original composition. If I add on a switch, it's unrelated to the original and independently removable. Anything is basically plug and play.

#201 4 years ago

I've got costing going on for the parts in bulk and I'll see what kind of labor has to be put in so I can get this listed on my store and you can all start ordering. Seems like it should come together pretty quickly.

#204 4 years ago

Cool. I guess this is more of a group buy. I found most of the parts in larger bulk quantities and it should save like $15 ea in part costs alone. All prime amazon to me, so really not a lot of additional cost on shipping. The 3D parts should be pretty inexpensive. I am just waiting on a few more pieces to come in to place so I can get a proper cost. I have a sample of the 3D part from pinballj coming (and the hinge) and a sample of the 3D part coming from Geteos who is doing all the printing so I can make sure they are the same and do a test fit. I'll plan on programming the arduinos and making all the connectors for a plug and play install. I have parts ordered for both install methods (it's like pennies to add both options) so you can choose.

#219 4 years ago
Quoted from zaphX:

For those interested, it looks like shapeways.com can print the bracket in "versatile plastic" for around 50 bucks.

If anyone wants to get just the bracket that we are printing I can list them separately too. I think it will be $5-10 cheaper than that.

#224 4 years ago

LOL. I'm shooting for 20-30 kits to start. Should be ready to take orders soon.

#225 4 years ago

Question for this thread, since it's very chest specific. I was working on a mod to give the chest a cover so you didn't have to see all the weird internals. I debated over and over if it mattered if you see the balls. I have a solution for that.

Given the option for the actuating lid now, is anyone even interested in this kind of thing?

One option was just gold "treasure" (much like the POTC ride scene) with some sparkly jewels and such. The other was to have a beating heart in the chest. The heart would beat red, backlight illuminated. The jewels might even be backlit.

To solve the ball situation, if it was a really big deal for someone, I was looking at putting 3 tiny switches in the cover that sensed the balls and lit up 3 "chest ball" indicators within the chest cover. It's going a bit far with the effort needed, but it was a thought.

Anyhow, I'm only going to work on this if others are interested. With the open close now I am less at a push to make it but I still sort of detest the inside of the chest. I cleaned mine up with some foam strips so you can't see the difference between the mounting bracket and the chest surround but it's still weird with the balls all bunched up at the end and the little light doing it's hardest to light up the interior.

**Oh, another note... I can list my RGB chest lid lighting if anyone wants to get that with the chest. Good time to install and it can be set to any color you want.

Pic is just a shitty render of some coins... it would look more like gold treasure, I think.

Chest Filler (resized).jpgChest Filler (resized).jpg
#232 4 years ago
Quoted from gumnut01:

Also the new plastic guard behind, maybe a small moulded plastic or at least a decal? Now that the chest closes maybe a decal would be visible.

Shhhhhhh.... shhhhh....

image (resized).pngimage (resized).png
#233 4 years ago
Quoted from gumnut01:

Harry, there is no treasure in this chest, just the heart. As Vireland has said. You need to watch the movies.

Just finished the third last night. If u have space on the right, you can put a heart there. If you can have a red flashing light that will start when it lights as others requested, count me in!!!

I should really watch the movies Ok, so no treasure but beating heart. Will work on that, but won't be for a bit. We have like 5 other things to kick out. The plastic replacement behind the chest is one.

#235 4 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

A simple black cover back there might be best. If everything is embellished, nothing stands out.

Agreed. We're going to create one with texture (wood crate) and see what it looks like but we can just remove the texture and keep it black. Hidden screws will mount where the rubber standoffs are now.

#237 4 years ago
Quoted from Agima2000:

The number of balls in the chest has nothing to do with the number of balls that are lured.
the actual status can be seen on the map.

Right, but I could see people complaining they lost that ability. Cool, well we will figure it out and post for feedback

#241 4 years ago
Quoted from dnaman:

harryhoudini, what about a new lid where all of the square posts actually move, even just the front facing one's. (pull in when closed and push out when open).

Square posts?

#243 4 years ago

Meh, too much work for not enough return in terms of visual interest.

On another note, since everyone is champing at the bit here is the kit to order. Huge disclaimer, I don't have any parts in hand yet and I haven't done the mod. This is best guess pricing based on all of the parts on the materials list, 3D printed bracket and the time to assemble it all. It will definitely take at least 2-3 weeks to start shipping.

https://magicalproductions.miiduu.com/jpinballs-actuated-chest-mod-jersey-jack-pinball-pirates-of-the-caribbean

Added over 4 years ago:

Meh, too much work for not enough return in terms of visual interest.

On another note, since everyone is champing at the bit here is the kit to order. Huge disclaimer, I don't have any parts in hand yet and I haven't done the mod. This is best guess pricing based on all of the parts on the materials list, 3D printed bracket and the time to assemble it all. It will definitely take at least 2-3 weeks to start shipping.

https://pinballmods.co/PinballJs-actuated-chest-mod-JJP-POTC

#257 4 years ago

If anyone wants the 3d printed part only they are listed now. Will take a bit of time to ship so if you want it immediately might want to source it online.
https://magicalproductions.miiduu.com/jpinballs-actuated-chest-mod-bracket-only-jersey-jack-pinball-pirates-of-the-caribbean

#259 4 years ago

No file has been made yet. It was a manual modification I think pinballj made and I'm waiting on that as well. I don't know if he sent me one, so either I'll get designs from him or fab one up myself. I am talking with a local metal place to produce them once I get the actual design. I can sketch it up in some program if a drawing doesn't exist, just need measurements.

Edit - I'm dumb. pinballj is sending me the top bracket as well. I'll draw it up and post for anyone who wants it and I'll get the fab shop to quote. I have another piece to produce for a different mod so maybe it will be cost effective. I can probably add it in as an option to the 3D bracket alone so you can get both pieces and just pickup the other parts. In the kit I'm including everything you need to install, including all wiring harnesses, etc. Plug and play.

#261 4 years ago
Quoted from Soulrider911:

Awesome harryhoudini I’m the meantime I ordered a replacement trunk lid bracket and going to bend mine and test then possibly see if I can make a 3D printed version that is strong enough, this would be great also as it reduces a lot of weight

I was thinking about that as well. If you end up doing that, it might be easier than fab shop doing a small run of metal and we'll print those as well. I worry they are too thin to be viable unless printed in something expensive.

#265 4 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

I'm making a bracket/container for the fake arduino board so you can snap it to the bracket in a vented enclosure instead of having to zip-tie it to the block as it is now. If people hang tight for a day or two I should have it tested and I'll post the change.

Doh... already printing!

#267 4 years ago
Quoted from steigerpijp:

Have it cut in clear lexan. Its how my set up is and you can move the chest RGB light board under it too for better effect , two mods one.
And its bulletproof too. And lightweight

Nice. I happen to have lexan here as well. But I'll call a cnc place. Do you have a template?

#273 4 years ago

Nice!

Do you know if those dimensions work for all "nano" devices or is that only the specific size of an Arduino?

#276 4 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

I only have the fake Arduino Nano board from Amazon that the OP suggested for this project on the BoM. No idea how it stacks up to other real or fake Nanos. I'm assuming they tried to fake convincingly, including dimensions, but I have no idea.

Cool, thanks. I purchased a bulk of different (pre-soldered) boards so I'll measure and see if we need to modify to fit or if it is universal.

#278 4 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

Which boards did you get? By pre-soldered do you mean the pin headers are on the board? That might be a clearance problem. Since there's so few wires to connect, I didn't even put the header pins on the boards I got.

Ah, I thought the headers were in use with the hookup wires. I can exchange them pretty easily.

I think this is the model: https://www.amazon.com/Arduino-Keywish-ATmega328P-Controller-Welded/dp/B071JBYDGM/ref=sr_1_3

I believe the supplier also has them in unsoldered.

#284 4 years ago
Quoted from Soulrider911:

Think I’m going to fork the OP’s code and add support for toggling and led strip on and off for those of us that have an led strip in the trunk
Also anyone know where he sources the 5v power from? What connection on backbox?

HAHA... I was planning on doing that. I was actually going to see about doing the lexan trunk lid plate with the strip behind it. I have a RGB strip with a dimmer/levels so I can set brightness and color. But I use 12v power because it's easily accessible under the PF. But, you can also just use a DC buck converter to take the 12v to whatever you want.

And I have a bunch of this stuff in stock if anyone wants to have it shipped with their mod. I'll get it posted to the site.

#285 4 years ago

Production line is ramping up boys! Got the wife on the job!

0702191742 (resized).jpg0702191742 (resized).jpg
#289 4 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

The existing bracket just has a block and a space to zip-tie the Nano to it, which looks...messy. This cleans everything up and puts it in a clip-on block and has hooks to manage the wires so the install will be much cleaner.

I assume it could just be screwed to the block too, no?

#291 4 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

If the block size was increased to allow holes. As it is now, the design is very tight. No wasted space. It's only designed to clip in.

Hot glue it is!

#292 4 years ago

Your team hard at work

"Ms Houdini works on the production line here at Magical Pinball Mods.... blah blah instagram post"

0702191854 (resized).jpg0702191854 (resized).jpg

#294 4 years ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

Thanks for the explanation! Is this going to be included in HH’s kit? Or is this going to be sold separately?

We've already been printing brackets (I mean Geteos has, lol) so they don't have any changes like this in them. I was actually planning on wrapping the nano in shrink wrap tubing and hot gluing or double stick taping it to the bracket. I don't think the cover will be that big of detraction

#296 4 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

I'll post the revised parts so you can print it if you want. I want mine to be a very clean install, but I'm pickier than most.

Well, I certainly hope you rounded all the corners and sanded it

#298 4 years ago

You disappoint.

I was actually thinking about painting them.

#302 4 years ago
Quoted from adamross:

Hey Harry how many orders have come in so far? Totally understand if you don’t wanna share just curious about demand.

I'd love to tell you but the stupid ass store software is broken and the one report for product sales doesn't work. Fucking cheap store. Probably like 30.

#303 4 years ago
Quoted from Soulrider911:

Is the kit including the trunk lid bracket? Still yet to see that

Yes.

Me too

#305 4 years ago
Quoted from Agima2000:

I have a power supply installed, so I am independent of the JJP installation.
Since I can safely divert my 12V and 5V for all mods.

What could be using so much power?

#307 4 years ago
Quoted from Agima2000:

Just for safety.
In case of a short circuit or a defect, I am isolated from the JJP.
A power supply costs no more than 3 adapter plugs.
have enough power supplies from the last project lying around here, which must be installed.

Ah. I couldn't envision many power hungry mods. A few lamps and servo/Arduino can't be much.

#309 4 years ago

Yea, I mean I gather that but don't most of those basic circuits have quite low draw? The fuse circuit diagram shows pretty low loads on 12v lines. Especially using the bill acceptor plug. I can see wanting to keep things sperate, but is a JJP 12v spotlight different than my own installed 12v spotlight? Sure, you wire something wrong and blow a fuse.. Or worst case throw an inline fuse before your mods.

#322 4 years ago

We are probably either supplying lid parts in PETG, Lexan or 3D printed filament. Going to determine what works the best for this and what we can produce well. Metal is still an option if any of those options aren't strong enough. Cheers for pinballj for doing that up. I hear parts from him and from Geteos are on the way to me. I have, I believe, all of the other parts needed. Once I do the install I'll confirm the kit contents and we'll start putting them together. My wife is doing pre-production work on wiring connections and such.

For those wanting the updated "case" for the Nano we can probably do that but it would have to be later in the process since we don't even have the file yet. So if you want to wait for that PM me and I'll put your order on hold. Frankly, I don't think it's necessary at all... what you get from us will be a finished product without a PCB zip tied to the plastic. You'll never see it.

#326 4 years ago
Quoted from gumnut01:

I Much prefer the idea of metal bracket. Harry, is it possible just to get a metal sheet fabricator to make the plates? Happy with 3D plastics for ornamentation or holding things but not so much for moving parts. Just thinking of 20 years of wear.

I actually felt like lexan would be nice, I mean if bullet proof windows can use it

Yeah, I'm talking with a fabricator but I don't have a bracket or dimensions yet so I can't get it priced. I have another metal piece I need made for another mod so it might be a good deal to get them done at the same time.

#327 4 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

The nano box is done, I'm just fine-tuning the main bracket. Wire-management for the servo is done and great, but the channel for the switch wires is too small. Once I adjust that the main bracket will be ready to go. I also tightened up the servo cutout on the main bracket since the original was too wide. I have a super-OCD nano box with a junction box, but no idea how long that will take (and let's be honest, that's overkill, but I am ill), so I'm just going to give you the revised bracket and nano box STLs as soon as I get the switch wiring channel fixed.
Here's where it's at before adjusting the switch wire channel. Note that this is still a very low-res print so the plastic's a little rough:
[quoted image]
The servo leads would be cut and routed into the nano box, or you'd have a connector coming out of the nano box and connect the servo to that. The servo lead can probably be shortened to a custom length by opening the 4 screws on the servo and shortening the wire from that end, but I haven't tried that (yet). I will have to for my super-OCD version, though.

Dude, seek help

Looks great. I'll post ours once it is complete and people can decide if they want to wait for an updated bracket with the holder. I would say that I expect our version to be just as "polished" with the existing bracket and how we'll put it all together.

#332 4 years ago

I added a RGB LED strip to the store if anyone wants that with their kit. I'll post a video of it soon so you can see the color changing and brightness.

https://magicalproductions.miiduu.com/chest-rgb-led-lighting-any-color-any-brightness-jersey-jack-pirates-of-the-caribbean

Added over 4 years ago:

I added a RGB LED strip to the store if anyone wants that with their kit. I'll post a video of it soon so you can see the color changing and brightness.

https://pinballmods.co/potc-chest-rgb-led-lighting

#337 4 years ago

Thanks pinballj box arrived today! Everything looks great. I have a 3D printer arriving tomorrow so I may just print out the lid brackets here. Otherwise it all looks great. Once the parts from Geteos arrive I'll put together a production sample and install it, video instructions, etc.

What did you power it with? I'm going to wire in connectors for everyone with the kit, but I don't know where there is 5v power aside from the USB plugs. I can include a step down buck board if we need to and can steal power from a spotlight or topper (there's even a spare in the backbox). I mean, I guess we could wire it up to a USB on the PC but that seems a little janky.

#339 4 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

The power is coming from the mini-USB. You can get an adapter that splits 5v off the ATX power supply to a USB connector so you're not tapped into anything in the system.
I've finished the redesigned big bracket that can take the nano-box snap-in and has the some wire management. I'm printing both now to make sure there are no unforseen issues, then I'll send you the big bracket and nano box files tomorrow that you can use for anyone that wants them.
I'm going to continue on to finish off a Super-OCD version for me that has a junction box with plugs and some other niceties for a super-clean install.

Thanks, I figured the ATX had 5v. I was going to solder in the connectors for power to the board so there isn't the need for a USB plug. Sort of lame to run wire all the way down the harness and up in to the backbox for 5v but that seems ideal over a buck board. Gonna have to order a grip ton of wire.

#341 4 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

Yeah, I was initially confused about the 5v on the board. Assumed there would be a solder pad, but they had to make design consessions due to the tiny size compared to an Uno board which has an actual DC power plug and USB by combining the power and data into one Mini-USB.

And speaking of which, MINI USB!?!? I had to freaking route around in my cable boxes for like 20 minutes only to finally rob one off an old USB hub I was sort of using and forgot about. Why the heck did they use that?! At least use micro. I guess I hadn't investigated the nano enough. I got an UNO development board to mess with and work on another mod and I was using the 5v input on the board.

#343 4 years ago

Crazy. I guess it makes sense, it's definitely a more robust connector as well.

I'm really considering just plugging it into the USB port now. I mean, the 5v is going to the mobo from the power supply anyhow and it's like almost next to nothing in power consumption. Versus making custom mini usb to 5v ATX connectors or whatever would be easiest. Is there any concern with a direct USB connection for power?

Does anyone here have a problem with that? I'll investigate the other method but it almost seems overkill for such a lightweight mod.

#353 4 years ago
Quoted from Agima2000:

This version can work permanently if the trunk gets a stable attachment.

We've already seen broken trunk brackets.

#354 4 years ago

Ok cool, I thought I could hard wire it to the board. Going to make a cable that goes to the atx 5v.

#360 4 years ago
Quoted from Soulrider911:

I’ve been thinking more about the power supply... could also get a 12v to 5v regulator and then just tap into any 12v source
https://www.getfpv.com/diatone-5v-500ma-voltage-regulator.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&adpos=1o5&scid=scplp4490&sc_intid=4490&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI1IPh1dSj4wIVh8pkCh2LLAqzEAQYBSABEgKcofD_BwE
Another option
Wirelessan 4pcs DC 7-24V In 5V Out Voltage Step Down Converter/Regulator for FPV Transmitter amazon.com link »

Yeah, I think buck boards are cheaper but same idea. So the question is run the wire up to the backbox or connect to 12v spotlight circuit with a converter. I sort of like the idea of keeping it off the game's power board. Not that there should be any concern. I put lights on the spotlight circuits, so not sure what real difference we're talking about in terms of preventing issue. Going to the backbox also keeps another "device" out of the loop (converter) so that's sort of a plus. Lower cost I would imagine for the wire and plug.

#361 4 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

Okay, here's a link to the revised jjPotC bracket and nano box that snaps into the revised bracket to clean up the look of the install:
http://www.irelandfamily.com/Base_Arduino-box-and-bracket.zip
I'll leave it up for the forseeable future and you can use it as you like.
Note that the nano box works better getting into and out of the clips if you slide it in from the outside and then shift it over and press down. It clips in VERY snug by design. It's not going anywhere.
Also, the nano itself clips into the nano box very snug as well. If you're having problems getting it to snap in, just use needlenose pliers to compress the angled plastic pieces that go around the mini USB connector a little to give it more room to move freely.

Sweet, we'll check this out. Wonder what the printing time compares to the other. I'll post a pic of our finished one for comparison.

#363 4 years ago

Well isn't this nifty.

15625407083271674600132700667424 (resized).jpg15625407083271674600132700667424 (resized).jpg
#364 4 years ago

Looks like we're making an adjustable chest lid bracket.

#366 4 years ago

Holes are different placement. I guess they didn't need to be exact because the lid never had to meet the chest, lol.

Prototype lexan. Pretty close, fairly adjustable. I'll send one to pinballj so he can cross-test on his lid so we can make sure it at least for on both. I think lexan will be easier for people to modify if absolutely necessary. Oh and this is really thin stuff, I'd probably triple the thickness. Obviously the finished product will be neat and tidy. This was a really rough quick cut (I had to make a few).

I'll include washers now to let the screws move around the slots in the bracket no matter what it's made out of. Probably locking washers too.
0707191637 (resized).jpg0707191637 (resized).jpg

#367 4 years ago

Bonus lighting opportunity. Ordering some 1/4” lexan to test with. This stuff is 1/16 and still performs pretty well.

15625437212984093103577145630865 (resized).jpg15625437212984093103577145630865 (resized).jpg

#368 4 years ago

Because I got this question I felt I should just comment that the install will be very easy. The only special tools I think needed so far are a short or stubby phillips screwdriver and 1/4" socket. Probably need a nut driver or sockets for under the playfield (didn't look yet). It looks like there might be a small amount of test fitting on the lid for each chest (line it up and tighten screws). There will be no wires to manually connect (just plug the adapter in to the backbox, all you have to do is take off the glass). I believe this can all be done with only taking the lid off the chest from above the playfield, at least that's how I've done it so far. If you want to do lighting, it's a great time. I'm doing RGB lighting with a heartbeat effect.

If you're concerned about install difficulty, I'll post a quick video overview of the install so you can get an idea if it would be something you couldn't do. I can't see anyone not being able to do this if they have a few basic tools and can follow directions. pinballj made it really easy.
pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).png

Doesn't that galaxy plastic in the back look awesome

#369 4 years ago

Ah ha. JJP gave us 12 and 5v under the playfield right from the power supply.
0707191749 (resized).jpg0707191749 (resized).jpg

2 pin adapter even.

0707191751 (resized).jpg0707191751 (resized).jpg
#370 4 years ago

Harness made, 1' wire at most to the chest. No running power to the back box.

15625476566626402503051154120162 (resized).jpg15625476566626402503051154120162 (resized).jpg
#372 4 years ago

Ok, mouser order placed for the wire harness. This keeps getting easier, it's all coming together. What a community effort. Acrylic order placed.

#373 4 years ago
Quoted from arzoo:

That's great news. I've yet to open the back of my pirates, never had any monitor sag.

Mine is hardly closed anymore, lol.

#374 4 years ago

Here are the Mouser part numbers for the power connector if anyone wants to build one. I am using the larger gauge .093 crimp connectors because I'm using larger wire for the passthrough and it was tight today with th smaller connectors. I don't think my crimp tool even supports them, damnit.

Mouser #: 571-14806990
Mfr. #: 1-480699-0
Desc.: Pin & Socket Connectors Pin & Socket Connectors CAP HOUSE 2 POS

Mouser #: 571-3505501
Mfr. #: 350550-1
Desc.: Pin & Socket Connectors Pin & Socket Connectors SOCKET 20-14 AWG

Mouser #: 571-3505471
Mfr. #: 350547-1
Desc.: Pin & Socket Connectors Pin & Socket Connectors PIN 20-14 AWG

Mouser #: 571-14806980
Mfr. #: 1-480698-0
Desc.: Pin & Socket Connectors Pin & Socket Connectors PLUG HOUSE 2 POS

#376 4 years ago
Quoted from Agima2000:

Since the existing mounting holes are very hard to reach, I have a thread cut in there.
This makes assembly a lot easier.

Which holes?

#381 4 years ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

Is all this other stuff going to be included in the kit?

EVERYTHING will be included

#382 4 years ago

I'll test out some lighting with the arduino. I just wrote some code for a WS2812B lighting panel so should be pretty easy to do the same for this. I don't think we would need addressable (although could make some cool effects) but a simple RGB lighting strip would work, which I have plenty of. I'll test out some designs and could offer it as an addon.

#384 4 years ago

No worries at all, I know there is a lot of tech discussion going on here but I guarantee the install is easy enough for pretty much everyone. No parts to buy, nothing to program or figure out. It will all be clearly laid out, easy to connect, etc. The biggest time will be spent aligning the lid, which is not a big deal.

#388 4 years ago

Yeah, I mean I have all the stuff here already so if someone wants I light I can add that in. I'll figure out what the parts cost and add it to the site.

#389 4 years ago
Quoted from Soulrider911:

harryhoudini this one comes up as 3 position
Mouser #: 571-14806980
Mfr. #: 1-480698-0
Desc.: Pin & Socket Connectors Pin & Socket Connectors PLUG HOUSE 2 POS

I think you have to ignore mouser drawings. For some reason theirs aren't as accurate as other sellers. The title says 2 POS and if you look at the datasheet you can see the actual part drawing. Screwy I know and I was worried I wasn't giving proper part numbers because I changed the pin wire size but I've tried to cross reference with molex documentation to confirm that this is all correct. I ordered the same parts from another seller already so I know those 2 product numbers are correct as well (molex part numbers) for the housings.

#391 4 years ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

Did you post a Video of the light in action by any chance?

Ha yea, I forgot I did take video but probably forgot to post it. Again these a prototypes... I have some changes I want to make, again waiting on parts to arrive. I have a digital RGB controller with remote (I mean, why not) and am working on changing the "heartbeat" so it keeps the same RGB color (right now it fades the color as it dims). But you can get the general idea. The light in the chest lid with the lexan won't have to sit at the front so it will give more direct down lighting and I think look better. I'll post a video and pics once I do that install, should be this week and could easily add on before shipping out any orders.

I contacted 2 plastic CNC cutters to see about the Lexan cutting price. I'd rather have them cut precisely if possible. I'm testing out the slots for the screws right now to see what makes sense in terms of how much the lid might need to slide and how off the chest lid holes might be. From what I hear Lexan can't be laser cut so it has to be CNC (or maybe waterjet). Going to keep this design flexible enough for everyone to just screw in no matter how off their holes are. So you can slide the piece front to back on the lid and a little side to side. You can slide the hinge left to right and up and down. So you can see in my pic prior that I was able to take that sliding lid (without making it specific to my chest) and align it perfectly.

Again, shitty camera... I'm going to grab my DSLR from my shop with baffled lighting that we used to shoot product photo and video for another venture and take some way better shots and video. The purple hue is killing me.

Oh I should add this is without the arduino, I made this before we started this discussion. I'll wire it up to the nano and write some code to see how it looks. I imagine it should be great. The addressable RGB strips used for the starmap lighting are controlled by a nano so I have some code already done and know it works. Hummm.. would probably have to add a button to the nano so you could cycle through color options in this scenario (since we wouldn't need the RGB controller). Eh, either way it's possible.

#393 4 years ago

I shouldn't post this... but... if we could read the signals from the chest optos we could control the lights based on how many balls are in there.

Oy. That's gonna have to be later, if at all.

#398 4 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

So off in Super-OCD land, I have the connectors and wiring worked out for the one I'm making for the one here. As was previously discussed, I won't be using the USB for power to avoid stability issues. The connector opposite the servo and switch on the top of the nano box will be connected to the ATX power supply's 5v.[quoted image]

That is sweet looking. I posted above for the 5v power connector, we're going to solder to the board too.

#399 4 years ago

We're cooking with fire now boys!

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#401 4 years ago
Quoted from pinballj:

Excellent work vireland and harryhoudini!
This seems to be coming together nicely

It's all you. We're just feeding on the tiny fish that follow around the huge whale.

#402 4 years ago

Btw, if anyone has a CNC cutter and wants to cut a lid bracket I'll post the AI file I'm making for the CNC guy locally. Here's the basic shape based on my prototype. I need to refine, elongate the holes and contract some dimensions to give enough play.

pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).png
#404 4 years ago
Quoted from Trooper11040:

I have a CNC machine...send me the file! Let me know what I should cut it out from

Oh man, we need to talk! I'm going to test 1/4" lexan/polycarbonate. I think that's a good thickness and will work, but I've only used 1/32" so far. The question is if there are any obstructions caused by the 1/4". I don't think so because @pinballj's lid that he 3D printed is at least that thick. I suppose you could cut it from almost anything to test, wood or plastic.

I'll send/post it when ready.

#406 4 years ago
Quoted from Soulrider911:

I have a pretty accurate ai version as well based off the original bracket to the 1/4 mm

Did you do any slots or adjustments? I think that's the crucial part.. we've already seen two lids don't have the same screw pattern. I'm planning on something like this. Btw, this is accurate to my proto measure with calipers. I just eyeballed the slots so I think I'll test print a really thin 3D one on this new fancy printer.

Actually, those narrow slots need to be wider. Needs a little left to right movement. But really those are less critical as the plate can be stationary and the hinge is actually what gets adjusted.

pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).png

#408 4 years ago
Quoted from gumnut01:

Gosh! That’s more impressive than my inkjet!

Plasticjet.

#410 4 years ago
Quoted from gumnut01:

What’s the return period like?

LOL... naw, this is my new rapid prototyper!

#413 4 years ago

I guess I could also print in clear. I'm printing a test version of my file today. We'll see

#414 4 years ago
Quoted from pinballj:

Btw, it definitely doesn't have to be as thick as the one I sent you harryhoudini . My proto used a steel plate, and I wanted to try out a 3d printed bracket. I just wasnt sure how flimsy it would be, even with an 80% fill. I printed a 3mm thick without the ribs at 100% last night and it is a little flimsy, but not too bad.

Cool, waiting to see your file too.

#415 4 years ago

Woot, pretty easy learning curve.. already printing a test lid bracket. Forgot to change filament so it is white, but I'll test clear. Wonder how much light will get transmitted or diffused through the clear.

#416 4 years ago

I guess I already did list the chest lighting mod. This was my first version (using RGB 5050 strips without addressable lights and a RGB controller). I think the price can stay the same and I can do the addressable lights connected to the arduino which should give the heartbeat option and the color selection. Gonna have to get some buttons for the arduino and write some more code but it should work out. I was going to list a specific one for the "upgrade" to the chest actuating kit but this should work out the same.

So if you want to add this to your order let me know. You can paypal me directly and not pay any shipping on it.

https://magicalproductions.miiduu.com/chest-rgb-led-lighting-any-color-any-brightness-jersey-jack-pirates-of-the-caribbean

Added over 4 years ago:

I guess I already did list the chest lighting mod. This was my first version (using RGB 5050 strips without addressable lights and a RGB controller). I think the price can stay the same and I can do the addressable lights connected to the arduino which should give the heartbeat option and the color selection. Gonna have to get some buttons for the arduino and write some more code but it should work out. I was going to list a specific one for the "upgrade" to the chest actuating kit but this should work out the same.

So if you want to add this to your order let me know. You can paypal me directly and not pay any shipping on it.

https://pinballmods.co/potc-chest-rgb-led-lighting

#419 4 years ago

I'm just about done. I noticed today that the original lid bracket does have slots for the screws This one is 2mm thick and just about the right dimensions. I moved the screw slots to be a bit more centered and I was off on the hinge slots. Printing another one right now.

CPR replied, they said they could cut it and I sent them a preliminary CNC file. They have 3/16" poly in stock which I think is probably more than thick enough. I got my 1/4 in today so I'll confirm with that, 1/16" isn't going to be a big deal. I know they can turn it around quick so hopefully I hear from Kevin tomorrow and can determine if it is cost prohibitive. I don't think it will be.

I started working on the LED program. I think I'll have to add two buttons to the Arduino, one to select light color and one to select effect (right now just planning on heart beat and always on). The LED will go off when the chest closes. For those who don't get the light mod right away, I'm going to see what it will take to add a plug or header to the board which will let you plug it in later.

For those who said the headers wouldn't fit, why?

pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).png
#420 4 years ago
Quoted from Soulrider911:

Test print, arm needs to be longer[quoted image]

LOL... dude, are we sitting at our houses designing and printing the same thing?! Swap when we're done?

My hinge holes are going to be bigger than yours to let there be enough play to move it around for all trunk lids to be adjusted.

PS - I also have a black stool and a gray towel where I am working. WTF?

#423 4 years ago

Uhhh... dude... first time I'M USING A 3D PRINTER! We are the same person.

#424 4 years ago

Brackets. PETG Lid

0710191155 (resized).jpg0710191155 (resized).jpg1562785015085455541548613667446 (resized).jpg1562785015085455541548613667446 (resized).jpg
#425 4 years ago

I'll get some black for the lids if I print them

#426 4 years ago

1562785949758921961249842411639 (resized).jpg1562785949758921961249842411639 (resized).jpg

Oops, I had it on backwards. Just test fit and it's really close. Need to move the tab, make a small adjustment for the ball guide on the main chest bracket (it's touching) and I'm moving the slots for everything just a bit more so it's "centered" and allows the most adjustment.

Btw, all lid parts will black or clear. This is all just test stuff. Hinges are black from the factory and we'll print the lid bracket in black, paint it or it will be clear Lexan. Gonna bug CPR again today to get a price.

#428 4 years ago

I wrote a whole message about yea, I'll offer the light, PM me, etc. Screw it, here's the light, same price as the stand alone version (although this is more work). Throw it on to an existing order or order it stand alone. If you already ordered the mod, not a problem. We'll see you have two orders and combine them. If the shipping is somehow outrageous (I think I set it really low) let me know and I'll refund it back to you. International customers especially.

https://magicalproductions.miiduu.com/actuated-chest-rgb-led-lighting-add-on-jersey-jack-pirates-of-the-caribbean

#430 4 years ago
Quoted from GCS2000:

My apologies didn't catch that the light mod with programming was on the table yet. Thought that was still being considered.
Anyway awesome news consider the order placed!
Thanks
Greg

It was... now it is, lol. It's almost a "why not" kind of thing, it's all "there" to connect to. Seems like a must do.

#431 4 years ago

I think I'm good on the lid bracket. I made some cutouts so, hopefully, no matter where you position it the bracket will clear all of the ball guides and such. I'm printing out a 3/16" version now which is the thickness that CPR has available to test depth.

This is NOT a guaranteed finished file, but here it is if anyone wants to edit it and mess with it: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1VdG6IcqinbfTz28lur5y9sYQrOs3GC07

#434 4 years ago

First rough pass at the heartbeat. I am going to mess with the timing to have it be a bit more "heartbeatish" and then I have to program the button functions and figure out how to store shit on the Arduino. First time programming these nifty little guys.

Don't worry about the single LED there... it's just my demo. I'll be using a strip with maybe 4-5 LEDs on it. I also have the brightness turned way down on this.

Edit... I'm too good

#438 4 years ago
Quoted from gumnut01:

Looks good. Where to install so effective, robust and not fugly?
In lid, is this a problem with wires going up past hinge?
To the right in the chest where the gap is, is this effective to light the chest?
Or underneath the chest?

It goes in the lid. I already have mine in there (the stand alone one I made) without the clear bracket. It will be even better with the clear bracket. I already posted the video somewhere (maybe here) but it's not on my site yet... trying to get a new site up that's way better. I'm gonna see if I can mount these right to the plastic before I ship so there is no install need for anyone. The wires just follow the rest of the chest wires down the back, my install took about maybe 10 minutes. The only thing I had to do was remove the lid.

Here is a video of that stand alone one. The one for the chest lid mod will be basically the same. You won't have unlimited choices in color but I'll give plenty of options by button press. You can just cycle through the colors and choose what you want.

#444 4 years ago

Sweet. Haven't programmed yet. Working on the lighting code and buttons.

#445 4 years ago

Printed a clear one to test.
15631683568281687555247030156185 (resized).jpg15631683568281687555247030156185 (resized).jpg

I bet I could use a different infill to get better light transmission. Still does a pretty good job and diffuses it as well.

#449 4 years ago

Cool I'll test infill 100%. It's PeTG, really strong, I've tried to break the tab. I can definitely add some ribs but I'm still thinking cpr will do this. I'm getting him a new file today.

#451 4 years ago

That's what thickness I went with on this one.

#452 4 years ago

Controller with socketed connections for everything including light mod add-on. Production sample.

15632362609311541893545300106566 (resized).jpg15632362609311541893545300106566 (resized).jpg

#454 4 years ago

Using the semi-clear bracket I posted prior, here is the light mod working off the controller. The only piece I need (aside from the CPR plastic lid) is the button array. I am waiting for UPS to get here so I can test that out. It's a 2 or 4 button array (not sure which I am going with) which will be included with the controller so you can set the lighting color and effect.

#457 4 years ago
Quoted from gumnut01:

Your wife has nice hands.

uhhh. Should I tell you?

#459 4 years ago
Quoted from Soulrider911:

Are you powering the arduino through the usb, or the gnd and VIN pin

Latter.. using the power adapter I made.

#460 4 years ago

She's got this, you guys.

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#462 4 years ago

Nice! CPR just told me they shipped the lid brackets as well

#464 4 years ago

Buttons are here! Since there are four, let's see what I can make them do. One for color, one for brightness (maybe two, one up one down) and one for effect. Seems about right.

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#468 4 years ago

We have at least 20-30 chest mods complete. The piece that we are waiting on right now to arrive from Canada is the clear lexan lid that CPR cut for us. They shipped a first batch of 50 or so to me last week. Once that arrives I just have to test fit. I am finishing up some of the arduino programming to work with the buttons for the light controls. If you did not order the light add-on we will probably start shipping your mods in order, shortly. Once the lights are done we will ship the rest in order. More brackets are on their way from Geteos so we'll be able to keep production running. My wife has completed all of the wiring harnesses so it's just a matter of building the bracket pieces for the ones that are on the way.

#473 4 years ago

Damnit UPS

In Transit 07/23/2019 1:21 A.M. East Syracuse, NY, United States
Past Event Shipped 07/18/2019 7:00 P.M. Dartmouth, NS, Canada

I guess maybe customs? I don't know. 5 freaking days.

Sorry guys, still waiting on the lexan lid brackets. In the meantime we're hard at work assembling everything else. I think we're on track to have 40 done shortly, so once the lid comes in we should be shooting these all your way.

If anyone still wants just the bracket and the lexan lid (perfect for lighting mods) I can add those to the site

#476 4 years ago
Quoted from fifou313:

Do you plan to make a full kit with the mecanism and the light?

If you buy both items (even if they are in seperate orders) we will install the light on the lid and provide the necessary connections to hook it up to the controller. IF we ship out the chest mod first and you didn't get the light, it's an easy install. We designed the arduino connections so you can add the light later. The install of it on the chest is really simple, basically just attach it to the lexan lid bracket and run the wires down.

https://magicalproductions.miiduu.com/jpinballs-actuated-chest-mod-jersey-jack-pinball-pirates-of-the-caribbean
https://magicalproductions.miiduu.com/actuated-chest-rgb-led-lighting-add-on-jersey-jack-pirates-of-the-caribbean

I know it got confusing, this all came together quickly. We've gone through orders and matched up who ordered what, contacted those people who may have just ordered a lighting mod and not the chest mod, etc. If there are any questions feel free to PM me or contact us on the site.

I don't recall if anyone else did this but since our kit is a slightly different I'll be doing an install video once we get the lids. Or maybe I'll do it with the prototype lid so everyone can watch it ahead of time

Added over 4 years ago:

Do you plan to make a full kit with the mecanism and the light?

If you buy both items (even if they are in seperate orders) we will install the light on the lid and provide the necessary connections to hook it up to the controller. IF we ship out the chest mod first and you didn't get the light, it's an easy install. We designed the arduino connections so you can add the light later. The install of it on the chest is really simple, basically just attach it to the lexan lid bracket and run the wires down.

https://pinballmods.co/PinballJs-actuated-chest-mod-JJP-POTC

I know it got confusing, this all came together quickly. We've gone through orders and matched up who ordered what, contacted those people who may have just ordered a lighting mod and not the chest mod, etc. If there are any questions feel free to PM me or contact us on the site.

I don't recall if anyone else did this but since our kit is a slightly different I'll be doing an install video once we get the lids. Or maybe I'll do it with the prototype lid so everyone can watch it ahead of time

#480 4 years ago
Quoted from dts:

I can’t get a sense of how much difference the led kit makes. Is it interactive?

Yeah, like Soulrider911 said it has some controls. It turns on and off when the chest opens and closes. It has an option to be steady on or have a heartbeat type effect. And you can choose the shade of color. I posted some videos here, I'll find them and link and put them on the website too.

Btw, here is the finished controller with the lighting buttons attached. Plug and play baby!
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#484 4 years ago
Quoted from Trooper11040:

each one except one had some issue. The supports were taking off the little nubs to hold the wires

Heh. This is my first time with a 3D printer, I've had so much fun with supports and threads and adhesion. Oh the joy. Luckily for everyone I am not doing the printing for most any of the production pieces we sell.

#490 4 years ago

Now we got the kid working.

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#495 4 years ago
Quoted from RTS:

HarryHoudini someone suggested that the lid should open slowly but close quickly kinda like gravity slamming it shut.
I agree that this would look better than a slow open and a slow close. Dropping shut would seem like a more realistic effect.
Any chance of implementing this or having it as an option while waiting on parts?

If you get the lighting mod it comes with 4 buttons. I was thinking one button might give that kind of control. I haven't looked yet, but could be feasible. Could have button option without lighting, I suppose as well.

Oh my list to look in to.

#497 4 years ago
Quoted from wesman:

Do you recommend light rubber pieces for the trunks lips, or does this even close hard or abrasively?

It's fairly soft

#499 4 years ago

What you're doing is everything right! Funny enough, I'm going to be doing the same this weekend so I can make an entertaining video for all the kits we're sending out. I keep watching the CPR package for the lid plastics and they are due here Monday, still! So, all barring any issues we are going to be shipping kits very soon.

#506 4 years ago

We used the connector for solderless replacement

#514 4 years ago

Lids arrived, we're going to put together a video of the install and the full action with the light option/function. Probably have that ready this weekend with kits starting to ship then. At this point I need to go through a complete install and work on any kinks, make sure I cover any possibilities and get everything packaged up.

I think we sold around 50 kits, maybe a few more, so very cool. I also wanted to mention that we are making sure pinballj is getting covered for his time, work and costs put in to developing this. It really is very slick.

#522 4 years ago
Quoted from Trooper11040:

What’s the 2-56 hex nuts for in this setup?

Top of the rod to the chest lid? I can confirm, but it won't be until Sat.

Quoted from dts:

Scott, is there a way to keep the lid open during multiball while the balls are being unloaded? I assume that would require a delay of some sort. Looks great, good work! I was gonna rig a rod from the fork solenoid but it looks like more wear and tear that way.

Off the top of my head the only way I could see this happening is by knowing how many balls are in the chest. So the opto signal would need to be read (with a wiring harness to split it) or another switch would need to be added. Or reading the coil signal for 3 quick activations. Maybe I'm missing some obvious logic.

#529 4 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

I think I used a 8-32 Type F thread-cutting screw (there aren't any threads on the fork assembly holes).

Bingo.

Quoted from KLR2014:

I ordered a kit on 12-7. What will I be getting because I see a lot of variations mentioned in this topic.

Everyone is getting the same thing from us. I am doing the install video this weekend so you'll be able to see in living color the process and components.

Quoted from Trooper11040:

And the trunk mod is done!!!! This is freaking awesome!!!

Fantastic!!

--

Btw... the lexan lid is saaaaaaaaaaweeeeeeeeeet

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#538 4 years ago

Sure, I'll post it, no problem. Still making a few changes but once it's good I'll link to it.

#540 4 years ago

Here is an introduction video to the chest mod pieces and how you'll get the items from us. Some had asked to see what was involved with the install and this gives a short overview of how this gets installed on the game. I didn't show removing the lid, it's a pretty simple procedure and I have a video of that as well which will be combined into an install video. Again, this isn't an install video, which I am making and will be more in depth.

Looks like we have about 45 or so of the mods that will be shipping out this week. They will go in order, obviously, so you'll get a shipping notification if you are in those first 45. I think we'll have another 30 or more going out next week, which should be close to covering all of the orders.

#544 4 years ago

For the LED mod there are 16 brightness levels and 20 colors settable via the button controller as well as an on/off for the heartbeat. Should be enough to suit most needs.

#545 4 years ago
Quoted from tgrinchy:

Looks great! Lexan lid looks really nice too. Do those lid screws need washers? The heads seemed a little small around those slots but could just be the angle.

You're right that they are close, but they have a decent amount of coverage on the slots that they aren't going anywhere.

#547 4 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

Putting a led matrix below the chest to light the playfield under the chest when the chest shot is open can't be done. The playfield is too reflective and you see all the leds. I'll be moving it behind the chest and reflecting it into that area instead, but it cannot be directly lit.

Oh man, that's a good idea. What about diffusing it with some opaque plastic?

Would love to see pics of the effect when you have time.

#555 4 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

Two questions on this video.
Why did you use the optional 4-way connector on the servo instead of the 2-way arm it also comes with?
Also, the Steel kwik-link rods come with an end that has a springloaded clip that can snap into the holes on the servo arms eliminating the need for any other parts to connect the rod to the servo arm. I used the second hole from the end and drilled it out a smidge more to make the rod move freely once snapped into the servo arm holes, but this eliminates one whole other part.

I don't know why the 4-way arm. That's just what pinballj's prototype showed up with. Does it matter? I think they are the same length arms on each?

I think the thinking on the kwik-link arms was to provide somewhat unlimited adjustability. If you use the arm and the threaded end is at the servo are you bending the upper end? Seems like that's sort of almost semi-permanent whereas the other way you can just slide it in and out of the bushing on the servo. I wanted to do a sort of "T" barrel type slip joint at the top but this way seems to work just fine.

#556 4 years ago

The kids have been busy making boxes!

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#560 4 years ago
Quoted from pinballj:

Yeah sorry about the confusion on the 4 way arm use. It was just the first one I grabbed. Really any of them would work (but I dont have OCD either lol).
On the kwik link, I did end up using the threaded rod end w the clevis to go on the servo instead of the mini connector on mine (either way works), and then using a little ball end that has a set screw on the side for the end to the chest top.
This also allows for you to unscrew the kwik link altogether from the top of the playfield, if you ever wanted to get into the chest. Of course I can't think of why you would want to do that. Maybe have a party. Oooh a disco party with @harryhoudini's light mod!
Nice work on your nano bracket @vireland! I like the labels too![quoted image]

Got a link for that part? That would probably be a much better solution, but we just went with what was on the BOM and in the original instructions.

#562 4 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

The Servo on the BOM came with 3 or 4 arms, including the 2 way one.
amazon.com link »
And then I just clipped on the kwik-link spring-loaded end onto the second from the last hole on the 2-way arm after drilling it out a very small smidge so the hole was a little bigger and the link moved easier:
amazon.com link »

Ah, I was meaning for the clevis or ball end that pinballj used at the top. I don't want to ship all of these with a lesser solution if there is something better. We've install all of the bushings on the servos but we can probably get those changed over pretty quickly if there is a better method.

#564 4 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

The clevis clip is the part that goes on the servo end (it comes with the Kwik link rod). snapping into one of the holes on the arm.
You can just use the Du-Bro 605 E-Z Connector with the set screw only and not use the other parts of it for the top.

LOL, ok so all the same parts (minus the need for the nut) just reversed basically, and using the clevis from the rod. Ok. I'll go mess around and see what we need to swap.

#569 4 years ago

Ok, gonna talk with my wife and see how much it would take to change. If not easy enough to keep on track we'll give easy change instructions. I suppose both ways could work so two options.

#576 4 years ago

Well, regarding the situation with the clips/nuts it really is no question at all because all of the same parts will be included so anyone could reconfigure it if they wanted. I'll just cover both in the install video. The rod is really the major adjustment point either way so people will have to mess with it one way or another.

#578 4 years ago

I'll post an entire install video for sure, what I've posted so far is only an overview. We are shipping out the first batch, I should have time this weekend to finish filming and editing.

#579 4 years ago

Here are some updates. After test fitting we decided to enlarge the holes in the lid plate. Trying to give as much latitude to the chest lid alignment as possible. There was a bit of reconfiguring of the wiring we did to offload all of the power requirements to the 5v plug and not running the power through the Arduino. The servo code was rewritten to be non-blocking, in fact everything is now non-blocking so there is no conflict between any processes that delay. The heartbeat, keypresses and chest movement are all on independent timers. Basically, unless you care about tech junk, ignore all this. Just a small update to what we've been doing.

A small team of elves have been putting everything together so there is no building when you get the parts, just install. We are also including the 2-leg servo horn (arms) that came with the servo if you want to swap them out for whatever reason. Also included is an additional snap on for the E-Z connectors in case you want to move them around. The quick link rods have been cut to both fit in the boxes and to not have too much hanging out of the servo. Again, nothing for most people to worry about but I'll cover this all in the video.

If you get an automated tracking number email by this weekend then you're in the first group for shipments. Post here or PM me for any questions on install. The video will be up this weekend covering the full install. I suspect there will be some questions that I may not cover, things we are just taking for granted that regular owners may not know about or have understanding of. I'll be around to answer questions and fix any issues that arise.

#580 4 years ago

A little thank you for your patience, everyone who ordered the chest mod is getting a prototype of a new product were working on. Seems obvious, but I don't see them anywhere and I want something like this. Simply, they are composite thumb nuts in multiple sizes, shapes and colors. I wanted them for plastics because I am constantly taking them off and on and the anodized nuts look horrible after a few uses. We did several rounds of testing and I think our latest design works really well for something generic and easy to use. I wouldn't use this design for plastics but I think for areas where it is hard to reach or you have to mess with the nuts (heh) a lot these could be really handy. It's a pain to remove the nuts behind the chest for the lid, so now if you want you can use these thumb nuts to reinstall the lid, or anywhere else you want. Obviously, these are coming in the default color of silver but we plan to have many colors, finishes and designs. Some game specific designs to blend in, some generic designs that might fit in with many games. These are made of a metal blended PLA so they are stronger than just plastic. We are experimenting with metallic colors as well as carbon fiber.

pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).png
#583 4 years ago

Why's it a different harness?

#585 4 years ago

Oooo ok, so you didn't make it passthrough, got it. Just making sure I didn't miss something different on the SE (but I'm pretty sure I had someone look at their SE before we made the power connectors)

#587 4 years ago
Quoted from Trooper11040:

It didn’t need to pass thru as mine ends there. I’m sure on the LE, that harness goes somewhere...maybe to the star map?

The connector we used comes off the PCB in the bottom right of the playfield. It's a lead from the power supply directly, actually, goes to the PCB. I think it's a switch control board. Off the ATX connector on the PCB there is a 2 pin molex plug that is just dangling there, I think. I don't think it plugs in to anything originally, but maybe I just had mine unplugged. You may not even need a passthrough, we just designed it that way for interoperability, don't want to take over a plug.

#589 4 years ago

To clarify, and update all the places we talked about this, I believe the connector we are using goes to the BP main light board. That's why it's passthrough, but I didn't have my BP in the game when I looked at it (and totally forgot about that, duh) so that is why I wasn't sure. The one you used could probably just be fine as well, the power usage on this is pretty darn minimal.

#590 4 years ago

Maybe this will satiate your appetite until your mods arrive. Still working on the full install video, but I created this a bit ago and forgot to post it. Here is a brief into to the advanced control you get with the lighting mod.

#592 4 years ago

Phew, what a weekend. I have almost all of the video done, just going through the alignment procedure a few times to make sure I covered it all. The other parts are all uploaded to Youtube, just need to put them on the website and I'll post here so you can start watching. They are split up in to logical sections so you can just watch the video you need.

We got a bunch more mod pieces made for the next shipment. I found out the thumb nut concept we printed and included are just a bit too big and may get in the way of the lid opening all the way, oh well. Free nuts for whatever you might want. We are also including some pirate standup target decals because the printer screwed up and sent us a whole ton of them. They go on the pirate standup left of the chest, but you can use them on any rectangular stand-up. Or toss them, we have way too many.

I haven't heard back from CPR on our 2nd lid order. We had to order more because apparently people really want this mod. I hope to hear from them tomorrow that they already shipped. Either way, we'll have everything ready to ship for the 2nd batch by the time they arrive. I think almost all orders should be covered in that. Maybe a few that happened in the last week or so might not be covered, but I think we built enough once we add those in.

#595 4 years ago

Still working on the video, wanted to get more shipped out today so I am working on the video tonight. We're getting caught up! Heard from CPR today, they are finishing the lids and going to 2nd day the box to us, so hopefully that gets out today or tomorrow.

#597 4 years ago

Here's the intro to the parts that come with the kit, video 1:

#598 4 years ago

Chest mod babies

0812192123 (resized).jpg0812192123 (resized).jpg
#604 4 years ago

We're getting caught up. Different supplier delays for both the chest mod and the backboard lighting have caused us to rearrange timelines as we had to. I understand the wait annoyance, we're pushing through them as quickly as we can. Now that we are waiting for the CPR delivery we are catching up on other orders. There were a lot of coordinate because many people kept ordering new items, wanting to add on to previous orders, especially the lighting mod. Unlike most online stores we tried to be accommodating of all changes given the somewhat new nature of the products we kept adding to our offering, like the chest lighting mod which was a late addition. Thanks for the patience guys, we're working on it!

#605 4 years ago
Quoted from fifou313:

Cool!!
Could you make a vid to show us where to use all these screws??
Regads

Heh, yeah... I have 4 or 5 more segments to post. I am reshooting one today that was a bit confusing after watching it a few times. Then I'll post, should be in time for all those who are getting the first batch.

#607 4 years ago

I can read in to that, Scott's really anal.

Yeah, just a few people putting this stuff together in our spare time. Trying to walk the line of not over-promising and under delivering, but I think there's a bit of leeway when it comes to the unknown of a lot of this stuff while we develop it and trying to accomodate the things people ask for, like the lighting mod controls and the speed on the chest. That's why I try to keep the threads updated with progress, although the starmap one did get a bit behind as we focused on this chest one.

#609 4 years ago
Quoted from gumnut01:

And the trip to the Bahamas would have slowed things down as well.

Shh.

#611 4 years ago
Quoted from dts:

I was gonna rig my own primitive version directly from the solenoid but am happy to support your more elegant solution! The extra features are appreciated.

It's mostly pinballj and other people here who asked for stuff. I just took their good ideas, lol. It was a great time figuring it all out, now I have plans for several other Arduino based mods.

#613 4 years ago

Didn't have far to travel

Videos today, I think. Still trying to get as many out as we can. CPR order is shipping today, so we should be close to getting a bunch more out this week if we get them by Friday but who knows with customs.

#615 4 years ago
Quoted from brucipher:

According to tracking mine arrived today as well! Are there written instructions in the box with how to install?

There are no written instructions. There is a link to the instructions in the box and I'll be posting it here as well. Trying to finish up a few things and get the last video up. Either way I'll get something up so you guys can start installing.

On another note... As some had asked, here is the code for the finished lighting mod controller. It's a pretty big gut of the original code: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1ZwxjiChpERzNHH9Ty9zyNsT4XK6R4gFE

And if you want the lighting mod separately for your own install or if you already got the chest mod and want to add on the lighting I added it as an option here: If you want to order the lighting add-on separately (either for your own install or for a chest mod you already got from us) I added it as an option now: https://magicalproductions.miiduu.com/jpinballs-actuated-chest-mod-jersey-jack-pinball-pirates-of-the-caribbean

Added over 4 years ago:

There are no written instructions. There is a link to the instructions in the box and I'll be posting it here as well. Trying to finish up a few things and get the last video up. Either way I'll get something up so you guys can start installing.

On another note... As some had asked, here is the code for the finished lighting mod controller. It's a pretty big gut of the original code: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1ZwxjiChpERzNHH9Ty9zyNsT4XK6R4gFE

And if you want the lighting mod separately for your own install or if you already got the chest mod and want to add on the lighting I added it as an option here: If you want to order the lighting add-on separately (either for your own install or for a chest mod you already got from us) I added it as an option now: https://pinballmods.co/pinballjs-actuated-chest-mod-jjp-potc

#619 4 years ago
Quoted from bgwilly31:

I must be in the second patch.
However im unsure if i got the lighting mod addition. Is there a way for to check. Cause if i didnt i want to add it for sure.

Sure, PM me your name or order number or something.

#620 4 years ago

**Installation Instructions**

Ok, I really need to watch these again so feel free to point out all the shiz I messed up and got wrong and I'll edit or re-cut. Any tips or tricks and I'll add them to the page. Gotta run back and finish up the galaxy plastic lighting mod.

https://magicalproductions.miiduu.com/jpinballs-actuating-chest-mod-installation-for-jjp-potc

Added over 4 years ago:

**Installation Instructions**

Ok, I really need to watch these again so feel free to point out all the shiz I messed up and got wrong and I'll edit or re-cut. Any tips or tricks and I'll add them to the page. Gotta run back and finish up the galaxy plastic lighting mod.

https://pinballmods.co/actuated-chest-mod-installation-for-jjp-potc
https://pinballmods.co/chest-mod-code-update

#621 4 years ago

If you want to order the lighting add-on separately (either for your own install or for a chest mod you already got from us) I added it as an option now: https://magicalproductions.miiduu.com/jpinballs-actuated-chest-mod-jersey-jack-pinball-pirates-of-the-caribbean

#624 4 years ago
Quoted from tgrinchy:

Received my order today! Ran into my first issue though - the servo slid right out of the mounting holes on the bracket. Looks like the holes got stripped when installed or the holes on the bracket are just a tad too large for the screws to bite properly. Anyone who received theirs have this issue?

Bah! I don't think they are stripped, I think the hole was too big. I thought we caught all of them, sorry. Just toss a larger screw in, if you need them I'll toss some in the mail tomorrow.

#627 4 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

Went with two individual LEDs for the heart instead of a strip and made two halves of a "beat" so there's a side for each ventricle, left ventricle "pumps", right ventricle lights up, and they both fade.
[quoted image]
Still working on the lagoon lighting part. Reflection everywhere I've tried to place the 4x4 matrix. Going to try a couple individial LEDs instead next.

Nice!

#628 4 years ago
Quoted from VillaThrills:

In and working...knock on wood everything seems fine. Mounting the box was tough with the self tapping screws. But so far so good. Once you play it, you realize why it should have been in the production game. So much easier to see where you are at.

Yeah, but try it with a nut. Pain in the arse. I used a powered screwdriver, put them right in, but yeah, by hand it killed the knuckles a bit.

#631 4 years ago
Quoted from Heater:

Question,
Your video starts with the lid off and the coil removed. I assume it's pretty simple to take off and attach the lid to the plate? Also, does the coil go back to the original place or is it moved?

Crap, let me look. I did a segment on the lid removal if it isn't there.

Remove the two nuts with 5/16 like PinMonk said. To get to the far left one (from front) you may need to remove the solenoid. There is a brass screw behind it, I used the bit from a 6-in-1 screwdriver to remove it. There is a small washer on the solenoid I believe, it may fall when you pull the solenoid out so try to get it. Usually it's attached to the solenoid still. Push the solenoid to the left, lay it in the out loop on a towel.

#634 4 years ago
Quoted from brucipher:

Ugh...while installing the mod the opto closest to the Dauntless popped off, and it appears the piece that keeps it snapped in place on the hole broke. What is the best way to reattach this? A dab of hot glue?

Yup. Not your fault, faulty design. Almost none of mine stay in now after swapping chest brackets.

#635 4 years ago
Quoted from tgrinchy:

What size screw do I need to use?

#4 1/2 is what is in there, I think. So something bigger. Doesn't matter as long as it fits the hole and holds the servo. I can check, still in bed.

#637 4 years ago

On the back of the chest bracket there are 3 little black plastic pieces. If you shine a light back there you'll see them. They just clip in to the chest, easily come out and even break the mounting clips. Worst case you hot glue them back in place, which is probably even better than the original. I have one that is flopping around right now (I think I had to move it out of the way while I was filming even). I'll take a pic when I wake up more.

#645 4 years ago
Quoted from tgrinchy:

Ended up using #6 3/4 screws.
Got the whole thing installed - took me a good 45min including aligning the lid which took the longest. I used the alternate rod config for my install.
Still testing and messing with how much I want things to open. So far looks great! Due to the angle of the chest, it’s easy to see the lid mech but not much one can do there. Putting back on the coil shield made it pretty tight but shouldn’t be an issue.

Glad you were able to solve that. I've let the team know they better shape up!

Quoted from SDpinballer:

Hi Harry, The chest lid mod it is in place and working well. Was easier than I thought it was going to be. There is one trouble - it is working opposite of what it supposed to be doing. Game starts with lid open. After LOAD and CHEST activated and “ shoot the chest to lock a ball,” then the lid closes. When I lock a ball, the lid opens back up, etc. is there an easy way to fix this now since everything is adjusted so perfectly?
PS. First post on this mod and it’s an excellent one! Nice work! (To all involved).

Ok, you got me stumped on that one. First, you had me scared that it was a programming issue but I hope that it's all good since others have had success. Can you take a pic of the servo and how you have the wire attached? Maybe it's backwards or not oriented properly?

#646 4 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

Yeah, this was the WORST part of installing the lid. I was able to get the middle one back on without breaking the legs, but it's a huge pain in the butt, and if you break them, replacing them is the only way to do it right. Fortunately they're pretty cheap. Mouser has them.

Damnit. I wasn't sure if they were generic, I paid JJP for one when I got the other under warranty (heh) for the BP optos. I would have just bought bulk from Mouser. Seems like they'll be breaking in the future, just a hunch.

#648 4 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

The mouser ones need the ends of the wire leads crimped into a connector, but that's all.

Cool, I have some of those connectors now anyhow for other mods. So many molex/connector styles! Or just rob the old ones and solder them up, I guess.

#652 4 years ago
Quoted from SDpinballer:

Yes, I think potentially it is wired backwards. The control arm motor is rotating the other direction than what the instruction video shows. Actually, for a fix I just placed the control arm at the 12 o’clock position instead of the 6 o’clock position when lid closed and tightened the hex nut on the rod there. It works and does not interfere with any mechanical or wires so I’m going to leave it unless advised otherwise. Plays well. Such an improvement on the game!!!

I don't know if this would happen, I didn't test, but is the servo plug connected in the right orientation? The brown from the servo wire matches up with the black from the arduino plug. It's a black connetor with 3 wires.

#653 4 years ago
Quoted from tgrinchy:

So I'm a few games in - not only is this mod awesome, but it makes me play better as well; I topped my grand champion score as soon as I installed it!
I noticed some "chatter" from the servo - for example, when the lid is open, it'll periodically adjust itself up/down a bid so the chest lid appears to shake a bit every so often. I believe Vireland had noticed this or something similar with the servo attempting to keep the correct position - which pinballj corrected in code a bit later. Scott - did this ship with the latest code update? Wasn't sure if this was the same thing but just running prior code.

Hummm.. interesting. I did not have this happen in my testing. I did not disconnect the servo in the code, from everything I read it wasn't necessary and would let the servo move with force applied to it and not hold its position. Could this be an issue with that particular servo?

I can certainly add a detach method but I've even read comments where people suggest not to do that. It is my understanding you keep it attached so it has power applied and holds its position.

PinMonk or pinballj do you have specific experience with this issue? Or PinMonk were you just commenting that is what pinballj did?

I'll search the thread and see what was up.

#658 4 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

I'm using servo detach because if you don't, the servo is alway applying micro-power and it makes annoying noises and unnecessary (in the big picture) micro movements. Pretty sure having the servo keep grinding the position non-stop is worse for the servo than turning it on and off as-needed. It takes quite a bit of force to move the servo, so slippage once software disconnected is not a problem. I'm running it on a route machine (with different overall code I did, but servo detach at the end of each movement) and have had no problems.

Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

The detach statement definitely needs to be in the code, otherwise the Servo will eventually burn out

Ok, I'll add that in and provide instructions on how to update. Every dang resource I can find, even the Arduino examples, don't seem to use it or say not to.

#659 4 years ago
Quoted from pinballj:

Yeah Harryhoudini..check to see if you have the attach / detach calls in. From the commits:
https://github.com/jfleitz/jjpotc-chest/commit/2f9159ae7dabb1739699a685a197005ceec405a1#diff-022815730130ab86b39b409e5cb96a18
If you do, and it is still chattering, my thought is that the servo is not able to "home its position". I would recommend:
1. Remove the servo arm from the servo
2. Make sure ramp is down
3. Turn game on and allow for servo to "home position "
4. Put servo arm back on (but not too much tension on the linkage, to allow servo to move).
Just my thoughts/opinions. Btw, excellent work for getting these manufacturered! I am terrible with keeping up with emails, let alone pinside in a timely fashion lol.
-Jeremy

Good notes. Weird, I tested maybe 10 servos in various code iterations and never had any chatter.

#662 4 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

It's pretty quiet unless it's against something that amplifies the vibration. I could HEAR it on my desk, then holding it, I could feel it. But I can't imagine it's good for the life of the servo.

Is there any easier way for people to update their Arduinos aside from using the IDE or web editor? I'll post the updated code once I test it and make a video on updating. I was looking to see if a USB drive could do it or maybe a Pi? I would be happy to mail a pi to people if they could just plug it in and it would update. Whatever to make it easiest.

Oh and we'll deploy it on the 2nd batch. I would also swap out or program controllers for people if they want to send them in.

#663 4 years ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

This is a common thing with the Arduino examples - they get you started but don’t always follow all the way through for practical use

Well, I mean I read some in-depth threads on servo movement concepts and implementation especially non-blocking stuff and I know specifically people called out not detaching the servo so as to keep it in place. Guess I missed that part of the discussion here, doh.

#665 4 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

I don't know of any way, but I'm by no means a Nano master. Pretty sure you just need to plug it into a computer and update that way through the USB.
I actually got one of those $129 Dell Inspiron 11" mini Win10 laptops specifically for this purpose, since when I'm testing it post-install, lugging a full laptop every time I wanted to field test an update I completed bench testing at home was a pain.

Cool, I don't see anything other than OTA and that's not applicable. I'll get an update video posted and details on how to get a swap from me.

#667 4 years ago

Looks like you can deploy a compiled HEX binary using various loaders that people have written. Here is one: https://github.com/twinearthsoftware/ArduinoSketchUploader

That one is windows only. Not sure how much easier that is versus installing the IDE. Maybe saves a few steps, but not really.

Another that is win only: https://sourceforge.net/projects/arduinodev/files/ArduinoBuilder/

Mac specific one: http://paulkaplan.me/HexUploader/

I'm gonna test these and figure out the easiest method.

#669 4 years ago
Quoted from VillaThrills:

Same thing on mine. What I did was instead of having the arm point down like in Harry’s video I flipped it up. Didn’t need to flip the polarity then.

Interesting. I should test and see if it the servo reverses plugged in backwards. I don't know how some could move one way and some the other.

#670 4 years ago

Code is updated, I'll post it shortly with instructions for both Windows and Mac on how to do the update. I'll also post how to get a swap of your controller if you don't want to do it. But it's really simple and I'll do a video on how to update. All mods that ship from this point forward (if you do not already have a tracking number) will have the v1.1 code with the servo detaching.

I didn't get a chance to test the servo direction yet. Was busy soldering and trying to get the next batch ready. CPR informed me the lids have already shipped so just waiting on those.

#672 4 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

At least it's easy to correct, just attach the lid rod to the arm on the other side of the servo arm.

For the rotation yea. For the servo detach might be a bit more challenging.

I also found, on a side note, that older USB cables are really iffy. I bought some new mini USB and it solved all of my programming issues. But yeah, download the IDE and upload the sketch. Hopefully not that troublesome and if there is any more feedback on colors, speeds, etc. I can add in more changes.

#678 4 years ago

I got wrapped up in trying to finish the backboard star lighting. I have the code open here, I added a bit more stuff to it (cycles the chest when it first gets power, cleaned up a few things and left the servo on for a long time to see if it creeped, which it has not). I just want to go over it again and I'll post it today. Making videos on how to update for those that don't know.

#680 4 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

We have it running on route and I used servo disconnect from the get-go. It does not creep in any visible way if disconnected after moving. Don't worry about that.

Oh, I was more worried that the cycle was right in my code. Not sure if you looked at it but the way the servo movement works now is non-blocking so it's a bit different. So, meaning, it seems like the disconnect is working properly in the updated code not that the servo would move without being connected.

#682 4 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

Oh, I didn't look at the way you did it. I decided that the incremental servo commands in the initial code taken from an ardiono sample were a pretty useless difference over just telling the servo to go to the desired position in one shot and then disconnecting. Simpler, easier, less stress on the unit, not much practical difference visually, so that's the way I went.

Yah, it has to be non-blocking to do all the other things I am doing. Looking for key presses, doing the heartbeat, etc. The delays in the original code block everything so everything is timer based now. Tiny, incremental moves each loop over N millis.

#683 4 years ago

ChestModCode.v.1.1

New code is there. Someone want to sanity check this for me?
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1ZwxjiChpERzNHH9Ty9zyNsT4XK6R4gFE

Notes:
- Servo now attaches and detaches before and after each move cycle. This should prevent any adjustments or creep while it is stationary

- On initial power on the servo cycles the chest lid and then sets it's position based on the switch. Generally this should never be needed since the switch will most likely be closed any time the game gets power on but it bugged me.

- Modified the speeds just a bit to give a bigger range

- Added some checking of servo position and a few other fixes and arrangements of code

Working on details on installing the update for Win and Mac users.

#691 4 years ago

Yeah, flick the switch (hold it down) to make sure it is clicking and the servo activates. You can push the forks up manually (side the white bushings on the side up, the ones that contact the switch) to get them out of the way. If the servo moving when the switch activates then I would make sure the switch connection is good (the red plug in the bundle of wires).

Btw, we do test every one when we install the code initially. We run through all of the functions with the actual switch and servo that get shipped with.

#693 4 years ago
Quoted from Meadowhawk:

When the forks are down and resting on the arm of the switch I can't make it click by manually forcing the arm up. But, I will check it again and maybe bend the arm a little more than it is to see if that makes a difference. Yes, the lighting mod inside the chest is working. It stays on all the time in the heartbeat mode, stays on with chest closed...hope that is right...

Nope, that's indicative of the switch not working. Push the forks up out of the way and try clicking the switch. It has to stay depressed for 500ms to activate. When it activates the lights should shut off and the servo should move. If neither of those are happening then there is a problem with the switch or the connection to the board. Either way we'll get you parts shipped out to replace.

#696 4 years ago
Quoted from Meadowhawk:

Thanks, I will check all that. My wife is forcing me out of the house at the moment but I will check it when I get back and let you know what I find out.

HAH. This is not allowed! Pinball is life!

#697 4 years ago

Here are the updating instructions for the Arduino controller. Aside from a laptop you need a mini USB cable. I linked to one on amazon, if you have an old one it should work but I had trouble with really old ones.

https://magicalproductions.miiduu.com/jpinballs-actuated-chest-mod-update-instructions

Someone let me know if they have done this and tried the new code. If I left anything out, anything is unclear. Thanks!

Added over 4 years ago:

Here are the updating instructions for the Arduino controller. Aside from a laptop you need a mini USB cable. I linked to one on amazon, if you have an old one it should work but I had trouble with really old ones.

https://pinballmods.co/chest-mod-code-update

Someone let me know if they have done this and tried the new code. If I left anything out, anything is unclear. Thanks!

#706 4 years ago
Quoted from Meadowhawk:

Just stumbled on Buffalo Pinball doing a livestream install of the actuating chest mod...cool!

Nice!

Quoted from tgrinchy:

I tried the new code and the chest is reversed now - prior version had orientation correct; now it's open when forks down instead of closed.
FYI I uploaded the 1.0 code and the orientation is correct again.
Scott - was the orientation change in 1.1 intentional or a mistake?

Well, here's the thing... and someone correct me if I am wrong. The "direction" is somewhat entirely based on how you connect the rod to the servo. How the arm is oriented can push or pull. If you are looking at the servo like a clock (with the sticker on it reading normal) if the arm and rod are connected at the say 9 o'clock position then when the switch is closed the arm rotates clockwise extending the rod and letting the chest close. If the arm/rod are connected at the 3 o'clock position then when the switch is closed the servo rotates and pulls on the rod, opening the chest.

Some people suggested earlier that they had to install theirs at the 3 o'clock when my video had it at the 9. I'm not sure why the conflicting reports in that regard, but when I went through the code I cleaned up how it determined what open/closed was and where it started when first powered on. Likely this reversed it from what you are used to, I didn't think to compare but the servos seemed to move the same as I was used to so just an oversight if that is the case.

What position, according to the above clock example, is your rod connected at?

I'd suggest the proper position is the 9 o'clock one which I think makes bending of the minimal comparatively, but I am open to feedback. I can reverse the direction in 1.1 if that keeps it consistent with the first version. Or you can loosen the servo arm and rotate it 180 deg, I think.

Can you confirm on these assumptions?

Edit - yeah, I just did the comparison, looks like I should just reverse it back to keep it consistent. Doing that now.

#707 4 years ago
Quoted from tgrinchy:

It can be updated without being installed; it'll receiver power over usb.

I would suggest unplugging the servo if you do this as it can interfere with the upload, for whatever reason. Not sure if it is the power requirements or being connected to a pin but it's been my experience if fails more often than not. At least unplugging the servo when powering it over USB seems to fix that. If you power it via the game then you can leave it all plugged in. Try it first, but if it fails this is likely why.

I don't understand why the Arduino puts out voltage on the VIN pin when powered over USB.

#710 4 years ago
Quoted from tgrinchy:

Yep I figured that was the case here - my servo came with the rod attachment around the 3 position so that’s what I've been working with. I have no issue swapping to the 9 o’clock position but wasn’t sure which side was the “standard” in this case; now we know
I’ll swap to 9 and go from there, thanks!

HA... I just changed the code. The 1.1 version (you're probably the only person who has the old version) has the direction the same as the v1. That way there is no confusion... err, no further confusion

#711 4 years ago
Quoted from gumnut01:

Scott maybe you can implement a ticket system on your site which does not email a ticket number back to you and then you don’t get any response back at all. Seems to work wonders for pinball support.

Brilliant.

#713 4 years ago
Quoted from Meadowhawk:

Hey Scott, I believe I found the problem, the solder connection to the middle post of the switch came loose and was not connected. I'll resolder in the morning and retest it, thanks.

Ah good catch. Thanks!

#715 4 years ago
Quoted from tgrinchy:

LOL - so I moved to 9 o’clock and seems fine. Are you saying 3 o’clock is the way to go with a new code update on 1.1?

Back to the original, yea.

#716 4 years ago

Ah got a note that the update instructions didn't have details on installing the required libraries for the Arduino. It's a small thing, I created a new video and am uploading now.

Edit - here it is. Hopefully that is clear.

https://magicalproductions.miiduu.com/jpinballs-actuated-chest-mod-update-instructions

Added over 4 years ago:

Ah got a note that the update instructions didn't have details on installing the required libraries for the Arduino. It's a small thing, I created a new video and am uploading now.

Edit - here it is. Hopefully that is clear.

https://pinballmods.co/chest-mod-code-update

#718 4 years ago
Quoted from McSirTuna:

Figured I'd share. I went through and installed the Actuating Chest Mod last night. I did complete the install, but did run into some issues that people have noted here (servo was going backwards). It is a long video, but it shows the full process I went through. I'd expect that we may upload it to YT as well eventually.
https://www.twitch.tv/videos/468699131
Happy to answer any questions on my experience.

A scholar and a gentleman. Thanks McSirTuna and all the others who have posted feedback and slugged through the install helping make this easier for everyone else.

#721 4 years ago
Quoted from Zora:

Scott, I remember that you wanted to add a video regarding the de-installation of the chest lid. Do you still plan to publish one? I have no idea how to separate the lid from the chest, especially without damaging the optos (where are the optos by the way?).

I have it somewhere. I'll find it and post.

#726 4 years ago
Quoted from VillaThrills:

For the life of me I cannot get the Arduino programmed. Just never recognizes it is plugged in. Tried a PC and Mac. Tried 3 different usb cables. Tried with game powered on and powered off. I go into the port settings and never see the nano recognized as being attached. Any recommendations here?

Some people point to it being a driver issue, especially on Windows. See https://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/60010/arduino-board-not-detected-when-connected-via-usb

But I am happy to connect to your computer and see if I can help. Traveling at the moment, but maybe tonight? I'll PM you again to see when we can connect.

#729 4 years ago

Thanks @rdoyle1978. I didn't do it on a Windows machine, haven't test if a VM will work. I believe it will so I can test on there and post a video too. Your video seems to be private.

Quoted from javagrind888:

Mine hasn't been shipped yet. Will the update already be on there?

Yes, if you have not received a shipping notice by now (which you will likely soon) then you will have the latest code installed.

#765 4 years ago

Wow, this thread is moving fast.

I'll add some of these notes to the install page, but several are already there FYI: https://magicalproductions.miiduu.com/jpinballs-actuating-chest-mod-installation-for-jjp-potc

Definitely my fault for the confusion on where the arm should be located. I must have had an earlier install of the code when I did my video or maybe I used pinballj's code and mine is different. Not sure exactly what happened but thanks for everyone who noted and has posted.

Here is a video on two questions easily answered that way, installing the lighting switch and how to remove the controller to send it back to be programmed, if you want us to update the code:

Also, here is a video on the arm adjustment and replacement with the two versus the four:

For the one or two who had missing parts or whatever we already spoke and your parts are on the way!

Added over 4 years ago:

Wow, this thread is moving fast.

I'll add some of these notes to the install page, but several are already there FYI: https://pinballmods.co/actuated-chest-mod-installation-for-jjp-potc

Definitely my fault for the confusion on where the arm should be located. I must have had an earlier install of the code when I did my video or maybe I used pinballj's code and mine is different. Not sure exactly what happened but thanks for everyone who noted and has posted.

Here is a video on two questions easily answered that way, installing the lighting switch and how to remove the controller to send it back to be programmed, if you want us to update the code:

Also, here is a video on the arm adjustment and replacement with the two versus the four:

For the one or two who had missing parts or whatever we already spoke and your parts are on the way!

#772 4 years ago
Quoted from Heater:

I remember seeing a pict of the control pad and what the buttons do but for the life of me I can find it again.

Just added it to the instructions page. The bracket should have a label on it, but I wasn't sure how well those would stick.

Lighting_Control_ai___369___CMYK_GPU_Preview_ (resized).jpgLighting_Control_ai___369___CMYK_GPU_Preview_ (resized).jpg
#776 4 years ago
Quoted from JoinTheCirqus:

We can send it back to you to be programmed? Thank you, I’ll need to do that.

For sure, I'll send you a PM. Anyone else can just PM me.

#779 4 years ago
Quoted from dts:

When I played the prototype at TPF in 2018, the chest mechanism really popped. I'm excited to get that on the game, and actually improved by Scott. I loved the triple disc as well, but you can't have it all! Great to hear this is most likely to be the best long term fix. JJPOTC, after a couple of hundred plays, is becoming one of my favorite games. It deserves to be in the top 10.

Triple disc mod is bring produced now.

#784 4 years ago
Quoted from VillaThrills:

That is much smoother than mine. I have little micro steps in my movement. Will have to take a look and see what is rubbing on mine. Thanks for the video!

If you have the light mod the bottom right button sets the speeds. There are 5 speeds, with #1 being the basic open/close. I messed around with some others but not sure how great they are, but the options are there. If you don't have that, then yeah, look for binding of anything. Especially the rod where it goes through the lid, it needs a little bend to move smoothly.

Quoted from KevInBuffalo:

Side note: anyone making a mod to cover the coil behind the treasure chest now that we can see it?

Nice job on the install! In fact yes... a crate. I have a prototype here but have a few changes to it. I'll post pics soon.

#786 4 years ago

I can try and work on the speeds a bit and send another update if people want it.

On another note, we're working on batch 3. We needed a few more parts which are on order, hopefully to arrive this week for shipping. Ran out of the rods with the latest set of orders. If you ordered within the last few weeks then you're in the 3rd batch. I think with that we will be caught up. Many people should have received tracking numbers in the last several days, if you are an earlier order and didn't get a number PM me and I'll check your order.

#793 4 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

The servo motion at 5v is pretty slow, so full speed servo with one command to go to the open/close position is a really nice speed with no hassle and less wear and tear on the motor since each is one move rather than a bunch of small ones every time. Try it, you'll see what I mean.

When I set the servo initial position in the setup() it goes at full speed, like a banshee out of hell, since there is no control when you "zero" it out. Your lid must snap open and close crazy. Do you have a video you posted?

I can easily circumvent the timers for full speed but it sure seemed hella fast.

#794 4 years ago

I think one only needs to look at the broken chest brackets to see that the mechanical open close would kill the mech in no time.

#797 4 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

Are you giving it more than 5v? The input voltage determines the speed to a large extent. I'm giving it a straight 5v and it's a nice speed open and close. I'll take some video of it opening and closing next time I'm at the location.

Yah, power goes to the servo, the lighting and the Arduino directly.

#804 4 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

He could easily do a combination, but I don't know if he wants the upgrade headache...

I don't know if he wants it either

I don't know, I think the default timing in my code is pretty close to that. It's definitely slower, but I'll have to grab one and test. I have twinkling stars in front of me today.

#807 4 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

That's what I was getting at. The timing is almost the same (yours is just a hair slower), but using direct calls rather than stepping the motor repeatedly in a loop each time it opens and closes is less wear and tear on the servo over time.

I'd just be a few IF statements I'd imagine. I could revisit the speed control for a v1.2

#809 4 years ago
Quoted from lhammer610:

I just got the kit and am installing it. The odd thing is that the servo seems to be moving backwards. When I close he switch, the servo moves counterclockwise. If I hook up he rod the way the installation video show, that would open the lid when the fork moves down. Switch opens, and the servo moves clockwise.
I can move the rod 180 degrees on the servo, more to the 3 o’clock position, but that is opposite of what I think the install idea shows.

Yea, I need to update that video apparently. I was backwards when it was made.

#811 4 years ago
Quoted from lhammer610:

Good to know I am not completely nuts.
If you don’t mind a suggestion, it would be nice to add a bit about removal of the chest top. It is a bit jarring to go from the second to the third / fourth videos.
Also, in order to tighten down the screws to the fork bracket, I ended up temporarily removing the bottom left PCB. Otherwise I just could not get the screwdriver in there.
Your videos are great. Clear to understand and straight to the point.

Thanks, something happened in my video posting as I know I made that part but must have cut it out in my editing. I'll make sure to add it back in as well.

Yeah, it's a tight spot. I used an extension on my power screw driver, good note.

#814 4 years ago
Quoted from lhammer610:

It looks like I got this mod working. Thanks for the kit.
IMHO, it might be easier if I had two nuts on the rod - to lock the lid in place. One above and one below the tab to the lid. Unfortunately, I did not have a nut small enough to put on the rod. I tried a plastic wire tide and it made setting up for me easier. The complication was that I had to take the arm off the motor to slip the wire in, since the lower nut locked it on the chest. But without that, the chest seemed to hang up on the rod and ride it up. Bending the rod helped there. But the second nut would really lock it in.
The plastic shield covering the solenoid interfered with the tab on the lid attached to the rod. So I used a dremel to grind the corner down (photos attached). Lots of small towels to keep the debris from the playfield.
The movement of the rod also tends to touch the wires to the solenoid in the back of the chest. I don't think that is a wear issue. I moved them out of the way the best I could.
I also found what keeps the rear of the lid from going all the way down - the plastic insert you provided is thicker and that hits the black metal ball guide on the right side. Nothing I could see to fix that. I would not want to have to remove that black ball guide and grind it. And making the insert on the top thinner might make it too weak.
I need to wrap up some wires where I cut the ties, but other than that, it is good to go.
First pic is the plastic cover for the solenoid prior to grinding. Second is after.
Third shows the metal ball guide that I think keeps the top from coming down because it hits the insert in the top.
Cheers![quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Great notes. I'll look in to all of those items. If the lid is too thick it could be ground down in that spot, I am sure. It's much thicker than it needs to be, just for longevity, but the force on it is so minimal. The tab was the largest concern.

No one else mentioned the solenoid cover, I didn't even think about it. We are making a replacement cover for back there which has a cutout for the tab, which is much more decorative FYI.

#821 4 years ago
Quoted from javagrind888:

Cool, I'll wait until the video instructions are complete before install. I could probably figure it out, but I just want to make sure I get everything right. Can you post here when you get the video updated?

You bet. I am finishing some star map lighting tonight and I'll get on that video. I just need to do some editing, I think, to add it back in to that video.

#826 4 years ago
Quoted from Thot:

it is the mod sell by Pinball Mod Co. ?

pinballj created it, we sell the kit: https://magicalproductions.miiduu.com/jpinballs-actuated-chest-mod-jersey-jack-pinball-pirates-of-the-caribbean

Quoted from Thot:

Hummm you just have to undo what you do no?

He's asking about the initial removing of the chest lid.

I found it! Not sure why it wasn't part of the other video but here is the specific chest lid removal portion:

Added over 4 years ago:

Edit: Find the chest mod at https://pinballmods.co/PinballJs-actuated-chest-mod-JJP-POTC

#831 4 years ago
Quoted from Zora:

Thanks Scott, you are perfect.
Why is it necessary to remove the coil before unscrewing the two screws of the lid? It seems that the unscrewing can be made without touching the coil.
Second, some concerns were raised that the optos might break when installing the lid. Is that an issue? I do not see any optos which might be in danger.

Like PinMonk said you could do it without removing, I wasn't able to get my socket in there so I did the coil removal part.

The optos are 3 black tabs starting just in front of that coil (along the back of the actual chest). If they do come out of place you'll know it. The game will continually try to kick out a ball from the chest (because the opto switch isn't closed). You could probably see it dangling there too. Sometimes you can pop it back in to place, they are pressure fit clips. If the clip breaks or it won't stay, a dab of hot glue gives you a pretty good fix. Probably better than the original. Breaking the entire opto would be pretty difficult, I've messed with mine a TON and while I've had tabs break (I had to replace my chest bracket, relocating all 6 optos) gluing them back on was a good fix and they all work fine.

#833 4 years ago
Quoted from RTS:

A dab of hot glue will secure the opto in place. You don't need to replace it.
I think hot glue is a better solution than the fragile clips.

Same thought.

#835 4 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

Hot glue doesn't last. Temporary solution at best for an area like that.

Que? It has like no tension or pressure on it. Heck, cyanoacrylate or 2 part epoxy then! My new favorite is the thick cyano with the setting spray. I'm gluing everything!

#838 4 years ago
Quoted from Psw757:

Any updates on what your designing to cover the coil?

Heh. I have a 3rd prototype to print out but I've been messing with my printer (silent controller install, different bed) so it's waiting to get printed. It's between two things right now.. basic one is a crate. Actually, it looks like two crates next to each other. The other option was a pile of treasure (somewhat akin to the treasure room in the potc ride). The thing is, I don't want to really call attention to the area I don't think... you sort of want it to just go away. I tried repositioning the coil a few different ways and there just isn't any space. I also bent my plastic tabs so it sits lower, but I don't know if I expect everyone to do that so we're making the piece fit over it. We made a cutout for the lid tab, as well.

I'll get it printed this weekend and post pic so you can see. Basically remove the clear protector that is there and screw this guy on. Should be pretty cost effective too, not much material or time to print and not much finish work. Trying to decide if keeping it black or dark is better, again not drawing attention to it, or painting it crate/treasure colors. Maybe I'll print out both and you guys can decide or we offer both.

#840 4 years ago

Yeah, same here. The only thing we could come up with are the crates or loot. The loot doesn't have to be in the chest to be consistent with the ride (Not sure about any scenes in the movie) so that sort of works. But then it draws attention behind the chest, which could be fine. If there are any other ideas, let me know. We can add on to the top of the "base" which is what we had to work on to get the right fit. Putting loot on top or whatever should be no problem.

#854 4 years ago
Quoted from MurphyPeoples:

PinMonk to the rescue!!! This is exactly what was happening. The Mod switch wasn't fully closing with the forks in the down position. I simply tweaked the switch slightly and violá!
Working during game play now. Simply have to due some fine adjustments to get her to close and open perfectly. : ) - Murphy

Gotta love that guy

Glad that did it! I was confused when you said the light was working, because the light is triggered by the switch as well.

#855 4 years ago
Quoted from gunstarhero:

Hey guys I’m working on the install now.
We had it working but the servo motion is really steppy, not smooth at all. I thought maybe we had too much drag on it but it does the same thing with the rod totally removed and no load at all.
Any thoughts?

Do you have the lighting mod? If so, one of the buttons (bottom right) sets the chest speed. There are 5 options.

Alternatively, either the servo could be wonky (not unheard of with these) or possibly, if you don't have the light mod, your speed was somehow defaulted to another speed. The slower ones are a bit jerky but the default one should be smooth. If you can take a quick video maybe we can confirm. I can always send out another servo if that seems to be the issue. Either way should not be jerky really.

#856 4 years ago
Quoted from BC_Gambit:

I did this install last weekend; I wasn't timing myself but I swear it took close to five hours.
1 hour of that was performing the code update, most of which was installing the different bits and following the instructions and learning how to use the software. Plus my computer is super old so even the software install took a bit longer than it may for you.
The next day I tackled the mod. I did not know there was a lid removal video so I figured that out myself. I also watched the other install videos as I did the work, so I included that in the time above.
My chest mod also had to go on the opposite arm that was pictured, which did cost me a decent amount of time as I went back and forth trying to figure out what I had missed, and eventually just went with what worked. I also spent a decent amount of time making sure wires were not going to get pinched by the rod or the other parts of the mod. I spent a decent amount of time bending the rod "just right".
Also, getting the rod at just the right height took a while as indicted by everybody else. I had it perfect "on the wrong side", then moved it to the other side and had to do some re-bends, and it was binding or something at a few points where the lid would move as usual, and then retract a bit due to pressure(?) felt by the mechanism.
Anyways with some persistence it worked great.
AND it survived a tournament we had yesterday, so after 75 or so plays it has held up well (knock on wood).
I think my last unresolved Pirates issue is "taming the slings". I am still getting sling escapes on the left sling during intense multiballs....

Ugh, sorry for those issues. I am going to re-edit that video and add in the lid removal and the correct rod placement. Glad it's working and you got some good testing on it for us!

The sling issue, are you using stock posts? Make sure you turn them way down, seems like even on the lowest setting they are more than strong enough. If you added washers you should be using double star posts with the rubber on the lower rung. Lastly, if you still need to change the geometry you can adjust the sling coil travel. I've never done it, but I think in the main POTC or troublehsooting thread LTG posted about dropping a nut down there somewhere to prevent so much travel? I am not 100% on this but I know others (maybe @zaphx) had this issue and solved it with some geometry adjustments.

#857 4 years ago

Here's the chest mech cover. The left side sort of has a "crate" finish and the right is just flat right now. It needs a bit more modification to fit perfectly and we'll have to do something about the coil tabs. My coil isn't installed in this photo so it sits right down on the bracket. Of course it would likely be a much darker color, probably similar to the barrels we are making. I think a good solution for the coil tabs is just to put the "treasure" on top of there so the tabs have a place to sit. Also worried about the chest lid tab lining up on all of the lids. I think you can't see the cover so much where the cutout is so we could make it large enough. Not sure the scoop gate clears it either, more testing to do. Any thoughts?

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#859 4 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

Angle both surfaces slightly to the outside on each side or it's a natural ball trap for airballs or missed canon shots.

Ah smart. The loot pile should provide that kind of angle to most of it but will make sure it all sheds away.

#865 4 years ago
Quoted from JimWilks:

The problem is no operation at 4.65V which is what my game delivers. Switch and power connections are fine.

Strange. I'll check my voltage, but that is coming from the PC power supply so it should be fairly consistent.

Quoted from Psw757:

You think there is enough room there for a small diorama of the island where they are running around with the chest? Some greenery and palm trees perhaps?

Eeeh... sounds complicated

Quoted from dts:

I'd be happy with something that fades into the background, like the starfield. Maybe a darker color will do the trick. What's up with the chest lid, it looks broken?

Yeah, the darker crate might be the best option for that. A smaller crate on top of the crate will give room for the tabs. We could offer both options, loot and crate.

My chest isn't installed... nor are most of the parts on my game, lol. I was trying to get it put back together this weekend but was focused too much on mods. I'd like to play it again soon

#868 4 years ago

I'm seeing about the same at all 5v plugs I tested in the game. The Arduino specs say it needs more but so far everyone has seemed to have no problem. There are options... one would be tying in to the 12v line which might be closest at the map disc motor, if not possible then going to the coin door or backbox would be the next option. Arduino can take up to 12v so that certainly could work, although you shouldn't need to based on the historical evidence of no one else having an issue.

Quoted from Psw757:

Was just trying to come up with an idea from the movies that is tied to the chest.
Only issue I have with crates and barrels at this point is if you happen to have the dauntless mod the are already plenty of that sort of thing inches from the chest.
I’m still thinking.....

The crate could be dark, dark brown to keep it mostly hidden. In fact, from the player view not much of it is visible really. The only thing that will change is some "bump" to cover the tabs.

#872 4 years ago

Ah good point, the lighting and the servo would need to be supplied with lower voltage from a buck board. Still not sure why every other one seems to work.

#880 4 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

There's a completely unused ATX-style 5v connector in the head that's perfect for this.

I suppose, if anyone is looking for a solution that moves the power for this, or other mods we have, to this connector with a buck board for 6v needs I could supply that. I have a bunch of buck boards here for other mods which use them. I could provide the passthrough cable from the head to the playfield and the buck board along with splitters if needed.

JimWilks let me know if you need anything. I'm interested now to see how that works out for you.

#883 4 years ago
Quoted from KingBW:

I received my trunk mod. Question for those that installed it already: Would it be easier to install this with the playfield out of the machine? (service rails setting on saw horses) I'm guessing that removing the trunk lid might be the only thing easier. I have a bunch of other mods to install including ModCouple stuff, Pinball Mod Co stuff, cliffys, side blades mylar in the starfield area, etc. and will remove the playfield to make most of this easier. Since I'm doing that anyway, I'm looking for the easiest way to do it.

The only thing you mention that would be easier with the playfield out are the side art blades. Do yourself a favor and put a stool or something in front of the machine that is about that height (and wide enough to support the playfield supports) and slide the playfield out as far as you can (with the cables attached). Have someone help. It's stable if you have a good platform to set it on. The back half still sits on the machine. It will come out far enough that you can put the side art on without having to try and get around the playfield. I ruined mine trying to follow those instructions. WOZ I did this way and it was 1000 times easier. And cut them apart if they are on one sheet. And apply by placing them in position, tape them in place with blue painters tape and then peel only a small amount of backing off, starting at the front. Squeegy it on slowly, aligning for fine tuning and getting all bubbles out. A hair dryer will help smooth out any wrinkles or such.

Everything else you mentioned could/should be done in the game, no reason not to and you have to get under the playfield so unless you have a rotisserie it's not even worth contemplating.

#887 4 years ago

I cringe when water has to be sprayed around wood and electronics but that is probably easier. The instructions made it sound like if you wrapped it around the playfield there would be no problem but the clearance on JJP games is so narrow that it inevitably sticks and you're screwed.

#889 4 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

You're not spraying water anywhere near the electronics. You spray the soapy water on the blade on a table or the floor NOT at the machine, then take the blade to the machine and put it on and have a paper towel ready to wipe the excess water that comes out when you squeegee the blade to get out air once you have it positioned perfectly (which is VERY easy with wet soapy backing).

OOOOH, glad people are smarter than me

Guess I'll get another set and have another go. The one thing that is preventing me is that these are already getting busted up by the playfield. I even installed velvety felt on the side of the playfield. I don't really want to install those $30 plastic protectors every time I want to raise the playfield. I have a design for, what I think is a better protector, and made a prototype but haven't found anyone to mass produce them. Even contacted the bent plastic guy but he was slow to non-responsive. Might just end up bending them myself but they need some assembly for the design I had in mind. I was adding on some features that would make them more than just inner cabinet protection. I think they would just end up costing too much for most people but I'll post about it and see.

#894 4 years ago
Quoted from Zora:

I am experimenting a bit with the connection between lid and servo. The metal rod is very stiff and due to the tweeking of the rod at the top it seems that there is a little turning pressure at the servo connection. I tried a cord (nylon cord might be good as well), and it works quite well. There is no obstacle, the cord moves without touching cables or playfield.

HA, that's smart! I am guessing that pressure is due to the way the rod goes through the lid hole. If the rod is bent forward at like 3-5 degrees then when it pulls down and the lid tips it will slide through the hole without binding up. At least that is my experience. But yeah, some steel wire or nylon cord probably does pretty well.

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#896 4 years ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

What did JJPinball used?

That is my bad... I am updating that when I can, but it's @pinballj. I'm slightly dyslexic. Now it affects the URL's, lol.. so I have to fix that with the new website that I'm putting up soon.

He used the same rod, our mod is basically what he designed. His lid was thinner so I think it was less of an issue. Once you kink the rod it sort of becomes obvious that it should be kinked because it sort of orients itself in the hole, if you see what I mean. I can do a quick video of the bending process I used if that would help.

#898 4 years ago
Quoted from paynemic:

Is there a step by step or video for reprogramming the computer? I’ve been using mine on original code because it was so awesome I couldn’t wait. Then I forgot it needed to be done.

Heck ya Also happy to program them if you send the controller back.

https://magicalproductions.miiduu.com/jpinballs-actuated-chest-mod-update-instructions

Added over 4 years ago:

Is there a step by step or video for reprogramming the computer? I’ve been using mine on original code because it was so awesome I couldn’t wait. Then I forgot it needed to be done.

Heck ya Also happy to program them if you send the controller back.

https://pinballmods.co/chest-mod-code-update

#905 4 years ago

Changing the orientation or connection method doesn't change the fact that the rod needs to go through the hole in the lid and it needs to be bent to get oriented to the angle which the lid needs to open to. Your lid is probably thinner than the ones we produced so that isn't an issue as much.

The way to overcome this is with a ball joint, which I have on order from Amazon. It would take some slight modification to the lid but it would remove all possibility of binding. I'll let you know how it turns out.

#912 4 years ago
Quoted from Psw757:

Just curious, does the clear plastic stay on above the coil once the mod is complete?
I was thinking something could be made to replace it with a simple decal image of maybe Davey Jones on it to cover the coil? Or maybe if large enough some of his crew too?

I've been posting about a few pages back. We're working on a cover to replace that and hide the area.

#913 4 years ago
Quoted from Psw757:

Maybe instead of plastic crates etc... to spruce it up, some sort of plastic that some nice character decals can go on. Either Davey Himself would look good or some of his crew like the hammerhead guy etc...
Just trying to help come up with a design that brings some of the movie to the chest area rather than more square plastic stuff. Lol

Like a 2d vertical piece of plastic with a decal on it?

I think I'd rather go like the "beach scene" with some treasure and palm trees. Doesn't that jive with the treasure chest?

#916 4 years ago
Quoted from Psw757:

Thing about the chest is that it never was a treasure chest in any of the movies.
Only held Jones’s heart.

Yeah, that was sort of a tie in to the ride I guess. I think the treasure could still sort of work because it is behind the chest, not in it. But all of these options could just be toppers on the box.

I'm not a huge fan of flat decal'ed plastic, I think it looks sorta lame. Like how the cheaper DeadPool comes with plastic instead of actual toys. The "base" box that I showed could just be flat black and probably not noticed to keep it hidden. Or I can try the "beach" option and see what we can do. Otherwise, if you have some actual artwork suggestions for the standup maybe post those so we could see. I can make a printable version but I don't really have any ideas for what it should contain.

I suppose a row boat might not be out of the question.

#917 4 years ago

Stern POTC has treasure and heart in the chest.

I guess the chest comes out of a crate? Maybe that crate?
https://wall.alphacoders.com/big.php?i=641086

#923 4 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

Your switch arm needs to be bent out more. It's not making enough contact with the fork mech rollers to open and close.

I think you've posted this exact reply like 5 or more times now

#925 4 years ago
Quoted from Psw757:

Need a little help, got it all installed.
When I power the game on the chest opens and closes as I would want, have good fit and alignment however when I test in game play by hitting the two shots the chest does not open and when a ball is fired into the chest, nothing either.
Any Ideas?

Your switch arm needs to be bent out more. It's not making enough contact with the fork mech rollers to open and close.

Put the forks up manually so they're out of the way and manually manipulate the switch. Do you hear a "click" when the arm's depressed? If you do, does the chest move?

If you're hearing the clicks and the chest still isn't moving, the switch may be bad or a wire is loose from the switch to the Arduino.

The Arduino will actuate the chest when it is first powered on. After that the little white nylon bushing needs to actuate the switch far enough that it clicks. It needs to be depressed for .5 seconds for the movement to take place.

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#926 4 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

RIF, man, RIF.
I'd keypost it if I could, but I found out that people get upset when I keypost my own help posts, so I don't do it anymore.

Post #925.

#935 4 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

Also explain why it works when you power on but not any other time, and I'll keypost that post 925. (The politics of pinside that make something like this necessary are often ridiculous)

Done

#938 4 years ago
Quoted from Psw757:

No luck
The lower switch doesn’t come anywhere near my rollers.

Pic? Do you have the bracket installed right? The white roller/bushings should come right down and hit the switch.

Also, did you actuate the switch and did the servo move?

#949 4 years ago
Quoted from Psw757:

The motion of the chest is slightly ahead of the animation on the display correct?

If you have the lighting mod there are settings you can choose for the chest speed. Bottom right button. Not sure how close they match the animation but there are 5 options

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