(Topic ID: 244666)

JJPOTC Treasure Chest Open/Close mod, now working!

By pinballj

2 years ago

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Post #7 Working prototype video Posted by pinballj (2 years ago)

Post #185 Everything needed to make your own chest-opening mod... Posted by pinballj (2 years ago)

Post #615 Code for lighting mod controller Posted by harryhoudini (2 years ago)

Post #925 Adjusting switch for mod when chest lid doesn't work Posted by harryhoudini (2 years ago)

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#32 2 years ago


#44 2 years ago

When I lock a ball can it go up and down like the cookie monster?

No; like Trex in JP

#56 2 years ago

I'll warehouse and retail them if someone wants to do the printing and dirty work, when it comes time. Heck, I probably have a source for the printing (the other mods) if someone wants them produced commercial and OP is ok with that. I have other unrelated retail online operations already and am launching a new mod sales site shortly to handle some other stuff I've developed.

#69 2 years ago

Maybe I'm slow.. or missing something... but OP used a servo, right?

And the concept is that the original method to do this was going to be using the same lifting mechanism as the forks but was never implemented? I would ponder why it was scrapped? Is it just cost for parts or I am wondering if the forks will not have enough power to lift the lid or quickly enough? Otherwise that seems like a quick and easy solution.

#72 2 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

There was a reliability issue in the field. What part was unreliable, I don't know. BUT it seems like the servo method would be less jarring for the whole assembly. Given how thin those mounts are for the chest, I can see them breaking if it's being banged open and closed with the force of the forks.

I can see them breaking even without that

#76 2 years ago
Quoted from pinballj:

I thought it was removed do to inconsistent ball locking , but no clue if that was due to the fork mech not raising or something else. I did the servo method to have something completely separate "powering" the lid. Worst case if there were rejects with the servo, you can just simply unplug it and turn the servo to the location you want the lid to be at in a fixed position

Makes sense to me! I'd love the snap open close but I imagine there is some issue with it.

#95 2 years ago

I don't think "balls locked" is an issue really because the number of balls in the chest does not always equate to the number locked. I was tossing around the idea of some lights on the front of the chest that used the optos to show you how many balls were in the chest. But seems overly complicated.

I too vote for the servo, but to each their own. After dealing with replacing the chest bracket and seeing just how flimsy it is and how easily it will shear again I would rather let something else die that I can easily replace and is cheap like a servo. Plus, I imagine the servo can do a lot more than just open close with the forks.

Has anyone thought about doing the forks method in the opposite direction? Use a radial spring on the hinge to keep the lid open and when the forks go down use a linkage to close the lid? Might be more work than the prototype method but seems like it could introduce a lot less stress into the whole thing.

1 week later
#137 2 years ago

FYI, I'm going to try and work with pinballjj to make kits commercially available.

#142 2 years ago
Quoted from gumnut01:

Big thanks for allowing us that want to to do it ourselves. No offence Harry. I gotta keep costs down some how!!!

I have no idea what is going to be required, but hopefully with scale and bulk it shouldn't be more or much more than doing it yourself. Unless you're going to do the 3D printing yourself and the bracket creation, then probably cheaper. But yeah, for people who want a simple install kit, then we should be able to produce this.

#144 2 years ago
Quoted from gumnut01:

It’s great your doing it Harry. Not saying you would make millions out of it! It’s the international postage that can get me. If I need to get stuff from Marco anyway, you might end up posting cheaper. Plus I get to come back to you for warranty issues!! Hmmmmm.

HAH. Read my warranty policy oh... I don't have one. Crap.

I could maybe help you out with Marco too, I always am ordering stuff from them. Maybe I can combine your stuff.

#182 2 years ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

I agree with you. Keep it isolated from the game itself.

Agreed. I tried to not tamper with any existing game original composition. If I add on a switch, it's unrelated to the original and independently removable. Anything is basically plug and play.

#201 2 years ago

I've got costing going on for the parts in bulk and I'll see what kind of labor has to be put in so I can get this listed on my store and you can all start ordering. Seems like it should come together pretty quickly.

#204 2 years ago

Cool. I guess this is more of a group buy. I found most of the parts in larger bulk quantities and it should save like $15 ea in part costs alone. All prime amazon to me, so really not a lot of additional cost on shipping. The 3D parts should be pretty inexpensive. I am just waiting on a few more pieces to come in to place so I can get a proper cost. I have a sample of the 3D part from pinballj coming (and the hinge) and a sample of the 3D part coming from Geteos who is doing all the printing so I can make sure they are the same and do a test fit. I'll plan on programming the arduinos and making all the connectors for a plug and play install. I have parts ordered for both install methods (it's like pennies to add both options) so you can choose.

#219 2 years ago
Quoted from zaphX:

For those interested, it looks like shapeways.com can print the bracket in "versatile plastic" for around 50 bucks.

If anyone wants to get just the bracket that we are printing I can list them separately too. I think it will be $5-10 cheaper than that.

#224 2 years ago

LOL. I'm shooting for 20-30 kits to start. Should be ready to take orders soon.

#225 2 years ago

Question for this thread, since it's very chest specific. I was working on a mod to give the chest a cover so you didn't have to see all the weird internals. I debated over and over if it mattered if you see the balls. I have a solution for that.

Given the option for the actuating lid now, is anyone even interested in this kind of thing?

One option was just gold "treasure" (much like the POTC ride scene) with some sparkly jewels and such. The other was to have a beating heart in the chest. The heart would beat red, backlight illuminated. The jewels might even be backlit.

To solve the ball situation, if it was a really big deal for someone, I was looking at putting 3 tiny switches in the cover that sensed the balls and lit up 3 "chest ball" indicators within the chest cover. It's going a bit far with the effort needed, but it was a thought.

Anyhow, I'm only going to work on this if others are interested. With the open close now I am less at a push to make it but I still sort of detest the inside of the chest. I cleaned mine up with some foam strips so you can't see the difference between the mounting bracket and the chest surround but it's still weird with the balls all bunched up at the end and the little light doing it's hardest to light up the interior.

**Oh, another note... I can list my RGB chest lid lighting if anyone wants to get that with the chest. Good time to install and it can be set to any color you want.

Pic is just a shitty render of some coins... it would look more like gold treasure, I think.

Chest Filler (resized).jpg
#232 2 years ago
Quoted from gumnut01:

Also the new plastic guard behind, maybe a small moulded plastic or at least a decal? Now that the chest closes maybe a decal would be visible.

Shhhhhhh.... shhhhh....

image (resized).png
#233 2 years ago
Quoted from gumnut01:

Harry, there is no treasure in this chest, just the heart. As Vireland has said. You need to watch the movies.

Just finished the third last night. If u have space on the right, you can put a heart there. If you can have a red flashing light that will start when it lights as others requested, count me in!!!

I should really watch the movies Ok, so no treasure but beating heart. Will work on that, but won't be for a bit. We have like 5 other things to kick out. The plastic replacement behind the chest is one.

#235 2 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

A simple black cover back there might be best. If everything is embellished, nothing stands out.

Agreed. We're going to create one with texture (wood crate) and see what it looks like but we can just remove the texture and keep it black. Hidden screws will mount where the rubber standoffs are now.

#237 2 years ago
Quoted from Agima2000:

The number of balls in the chest has nothing to do with the number of balls that are lured.
the actual status can be seen on the map.

Right, but I could see people complaining they lost that ability. Cool, well we will figure it out and post for feedback

#241 2 years ago
Quoted from dnaman:

harryhoudini, what about a new lid where all of the square posts actually move, even just the front facing one's. (pull in when closed and push out when open).

Square posts?

#243 2 years ago

Meh, too much work for not enough return in terms of visual interest.

On another note, since everyone is champing at the bit here is the kit to order. Huge disclaimer, I don't have any parts in hand yet and I haven't done the mod. This is best guess pricing based on all of the parts on the materials list, 3D printed bracket and the time to assemble it all. It will definitely take at least 2-3 weeks to start shipping.


Added 21 months ago:

Meh, too much work for not enough return in terms of visual interest.

On another note, since everyone is champing at the bit here is the kit to order. Huge disclaimer, I don't have any parts in hand yet and I haven't done the mod. This is best guess pricing based on all of the parts on the materials list, 3D printed bracket and the time to assemble it all. It will definitely take at least 2-3 weeks to start shipping.


#257 2 years ago

If anyone wants the 3d printed part only they are listed now. Will take a bit of time to ship so if you want it immediately might want to source it online.

#259 2 years ago

No file has been made yet. It was a manual modification I think pinballj made and I'm waiting on that as well. I don't know if he sent me one, so either I'll get designs from him or fab one up myself. I am talking with a local metal place to produce them once I get the actual design. I can sketch it up in some program if a drawing doesn't exist, just need measurements.

Edit - I'm dumb. pinballj is sending me the top bracket as well. I'll draw it up and post for anyone who wants it and I'll get the fab shop to quote. I have another piece to produce for a different mod so maybe it will be cost effective. I can probably add it in as an option to the 3D bracket alone so you can get both pieces and just pickup the other parts. In the kit I'm including everything you need to install, including all wiring harnesses, etc. Plug and play.

#261 2 years ago
Quoted from Soulrider911:

Awesome harryhoudini I’m the meantime I ordered a replacement trunk lid bracket and going to bend mine and test then possibly see if I can make a 3D printed version that is strong enough, this would be great also as it reduces a lot of weight

I was thinking about that as well. If you end up doing that, it might be easier than fab shop doing a small run of metal and we'll print those as well. I worry they are too thin to be viable unless printed in something expensive.

#265 2 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

I'm making a bracket/container for the fake arduino board so you can snap it to the bracket in a vented enclosure instead of having to zip-tie it to the block as it is now. If people hang tight for a day or two I should have it tested and I'll post the change.

Doh... already printing!

#267 2 years ago
Quoted from steigerpijp:

Have it cut in clear lexan. Its how my set up is and you can move the chest RGB light board under it too for better effect , two mods one.
And its bulletproof too. And lightweight

Nice. I happen to have lexan here as well. But I'll call a cnc place. Do you have a template?

#273 2 years ago


Do you know if those dimensions work for all "nano" devices or is that only the specific size of an Arduino?

#276 2 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

I only have the fake Arduino Nano board from Amazon that the OP suggested for this project on the BoM. No idea how it stacks up to other real or fake Nanos. I'm assuming they tried to fake convincingly, including dimensions, but I have no idea.

Cool, thanks. I purchased a bulk of different (pre-soldered) boards so I'll measure and see if we need to modify to fit or if it is universal.

#278 2 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

Which boards did you get? By pre-soldered do you mean the pin headers are on the board? That might be a clearance problem. Since there's so few wires to connect, I didn't even put the header pins on the boards I got.

Ah, I thought the headers were in use with the hookup wires. I can exchange them pretty easily.

I think this is the model: amazon.com link »

I believe the supplier also has them in unsoldered.

#284 2 years ago
Quoted from Soulrider911:

Think I’m going to fork the OP’s code and add support for toggling and led strip on and off for those of us that have an led strip in the trunk
Also anyone know where he sources the 5v power from? What connection on backbox?

HAHA... I was planning on doing that. I was actually going to see about doing the lexan trunk lid plate with the strip behind it. I have a RGB strip with a dimmer/levels so I can set brightness and color. But I use 12v power because it's easily accessible under the PF. But, you can also just use a DC buck converter to take the 12v to whatever you want.

And I have a bunch of this stuff in stock if anyone wants to have it shipped with their mod. I'll get it posted to the site.

#285 2 years ago

Production line is ramping up boys! Got the wife on the job!

0702191742 (resized).jpg
#289 2 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

The existing bracket just has a block and a space to zip-tie the Nano to it, which looks...messy. This cleans everything up and puts it in a clip-on block and has hooks to manage the wires so the install will be much cleaner.

I assume it could just be screwed to the block too, no?

#291 2 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

If the block size was increased to allow holes. As it is now, the design is very tight. No wasted space. It's only designed to clip in.

Hot glue it is!

#292 2 years ago

Your team hard at work

"Ms Houdini works on the production line here at Magical Pinball Mods.... blah blah instagram post"

0702191854 (resized).jpg

#294 2 years ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

Thanks for the explanation! Is this going to be included in HH’s kit? Or is this going to be sold separately?

We've already been printing brackets (I mean Geteos has, lol) so they don't have any changes like this in them. I was actually planning on wrapping the nano in shrink wrap tubing and hot gluing or double stick taping it to the bracket. I don't think the cover will be that big of detraction

#296 2 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

I'll post the revised parts so you can print it if you want. I want mine to be a very clean install, but I'm pickier than most.

Well, I certainly hope you rounded all the corners and sanded it

#298 2 years ago

You disappoint.

I was actually thinking about painting them.

#302 2 years ago
Quoted from adamross:

Hey Harry how many orders have come in so far? Totally understand if you don’t wanna share just curious about demand.

I'd love to tell you but the stupid ass store software is broken and the one report for product sales doesn't work. Fucking cheap store. Probably like 30.

#303 2 years ago
Quoted from Soulrider911:

Is the kit including the trunk lid bracket? Still yet to see that


Me too

#305 2 years ago
Quoted from Agima2000:

I have a power supply installed, so I am independent of the JJP installation.
Since I can safely divert my 12V and 5V for all mods.

What could be using so much power?

#307 2 years ago
Quoted from Agima2000:

Just for safety.
In case of a short circuit or a defect, I am isolated from the JJP.
A power supply costs no more than 3 adapter plugs.
have enough power supplies from the last project lying around here, which must be installed.

Ah. I couldn't envision many power hungry mods. A few lamps and servo/Arduino can't be much.

#309 2 years ago

Yea, I mean I gather that but don't most of those basic circuits have quite low draw? The fuse circuit diagram shows pretty low loads on 12v lines. Especially using the bill acceptor plug. I can see wanting to keep things sperate, but is a JJP 12v spotlight different than my own installed 12v spotlight? Sure, you wire something wrong and blow a fuse.. Or worst case throw an inline fuse before your mods.

#322 2 years ago

We are probably either supplying lid parts in PETG, Lexan or 3D printed filament. Going to determine what works the best for this and what we can produce well. Metal is still an option if any of those options aren't strong enough. Cheers for pinballj for doing that up. I hear parts from him and from Geteos are on the way to me. I have, I believe, all of the other parts needed. Once I do the install I'll confirm the kit contents and we'll start putting them together. My wife is doing pre-production work on wiring connections and such.

For those wanting the updated "case" for the Nano we can probably do that but it would have to be later in the process since we don't even have the file yet. So if you want to wait for that PM me and I'll put your order on hold. Frankly, I don't think it's necessary at all... what you get from us will be a finished product without a PCB zip tied to the plastic. You'll never see it.

#326 2 years ago
Quoted from gumnut01:

I Much prefer the idea of metal bracket. Harry, is it possible just to get a metal sheet fabricator to make the plates? Happy with 3D plastics for ornamentation or holding things but not so much for moving parts. Just thinking of 20 years of wear.

I actually felt like lexan would be nice, I mean if bullet proof windows can use it

Yeah, I'm talking with a fabricator but I don't have a bracket or dimensions yet so I can't get it priced. I have another metal piece I need made for another mod so it might be a good deal to get them done at the same time.

#327 2 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

The nano box is done, I'm just fine-tuning the main bracket. Wire-management for the servo is done and great, but the channel for the switch wires is too small. Once I adjust that the main bracket will be ready to go. I also tightened up the servo cutout on the main bracket since the original was too wide. I have a super-OCD nano box with a junction box, but no idea how long that will take (and let's be honest, that's overkill, but I am ill), so I'm just going to give you the revised bracket and nano box STLs as soon as I get the switch wiring channel fixed.
Here's where it's at before adjusting the switch wire channel. Note that this is still a very low-res print so the plastic's a little rough:
[quoted image]
The servo leads would be cut and routed into the nano box, or you'd have a connector coming out of the nano box and connect the servo to that. The servo lead can probably be shortened to a custom length by opening the 4 screws on the servo and shortening the wire from that end, but I haven't tried that (yet). I will have to for my super-OCD version, though.

Dude, seek help

Looks great. I'll post ours once it is complete and people can decide if they want to wait for an updated bracket with the holder. I would say that I expect our version to be just as "polished" with the existing bracket and how we'll put it all together.

#332 2 years ago

I added a RGB LED strip to the store if anyone wants that with their kit. I'll post a video of it soon so you can see the color changing and brightness.


Added 21 months ago:

I added a RGB LED strip to the store if anyone wants that with their kit. I'll post a video of it soon so you can see the color changing and brightness.


#337 2 years ago

Thanks pinballj box arrived today! Everything looks great. I have a 3D printer arriving tomorrow so I may just print out the lid brackets here. Otherwise it all looks great. Once the parts from Geteos arrive I'll put together a production sample and install it, video instructions, etc.

What did you power it with? I'm going to wire in connectors for everyone with the kit, but I don't know where there is 5v power aside from the USB plugs. I can include a step down buck board if we need to and can steal power from a spotlight or topper (there's even a spare in the backbox). I mean, I guess we could wire it up to a USB on the PC but that seems a little janky.

#339 2 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

The power is coming from the mini-USB. You can get an adapter that splits 5v off the ATX power supply to a USB connector so you're not tapped into anything in the system.
I've finished the redesigned big bracket that can take the nano-box snap-in and has the some wire management. I'm printing both now to make sure there are no unforseen issues, then I'll send you the big bracket and nano box files tomorrow that you can use for anyone that wants them.
I'm going to continue on to finish off a Super-OCD version for me that has a junction box with plugs and some other niceties for a super-clean install.

Thanks, I figured the ATX had 5v. I was going to solder in the connectors for power to the board so there isn't the need for a USB plug. Sort of lame to run wire all the way down the harness and up in to the backbox for 5v but that seems ideal over a buck board. Gonna have to order a grip ton of wire.

#341 2 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

Yeah, I was initially confused about the 5v on the board. Assumed there would be a solder pad, but they had to make design consessions due to the tiny size compared to an Uno board which has an actual DC power plug and USB by combining the power and data into one Mini-USB.

And speaking of which, MINI USB!?!? I had to freaking route around in my cable boxes for like 20 minutes only to finally rob one off an old USB hub I was sort of using and forgot about. Why the heck did they use that?! At least use micro. I guess I hadn't investigated the nano enough. I got an UNO development board to mess with and work on another mod and I was using the 5v input on the board.

#343 2 years ago

Crazy. I guess it makes sense, it's definitely a more robust connector as well.

I'm really considering just plugging it into the USB port now. I mean, the 5v is going to the mobo from the power supply anyhow and it's like almost next to nothing in power consumption. Versus making custom mini usb to 5v ATX connectors or whatever would be easiest. Is there any concern with a direct USB connection for power?

Does anyone here have a problem with that? I'll investigate the other method but it almost seems overkill for such a lightweight mod.

#353 2 years ago
Quoted from Agima2000:

This version can work permanently if the trunk gets a stable attachment.

We've already seen broken trunk brackets.

#354 2 years ago

Ok cool, I thought I could hard wire it to the board. Going to make a cable that goes to the atx 5v.

#360 2 years ago
Quoted from Soulrider911:

I’ve been thinking more about the power supply... could also get a 12v to 5v regulator and then just tap into any 12v source
Another option
Wirelessan 4pcs DC 7-24V In 5V Out Voltage Step Down Converter/Regulator for FPV Transmitter amazon.com link »

Yeah, I think buck boards are cheaper but same idea. So the question is run the wire up to the backbox or connect to 12v spotlight circuit with a converter. I sort of like the idea of keeping it off the game's power board. Not that there should be any concern. I put lights on the spotlight circuits, so not sure what real difference we're talking about in terms of preventing issue. Going to the backbox also keeps another "device" out of the loop (converter) so that's sort of a plus. Lower cost I would imagine for the wire and plug.

#361 2 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

Okay, here's a link to the revised jjPotC bracket and nano box that snaps into the revised bracket to clean up the look of the install:
I'll leave it up for the forseeable future and you can use it as you like.
Note that the nano box works better getting into and out of the clips if you slide it in from the outside and then shift it over and press down. It clips in VERY snug by design. It's not going anywhere.
Also, the nano itself clips into the nano box very snug as well. If you're having problems getting it to snap in, just use needlenose pliers to compress the angled plastic pieces that go around the mini USB connector a little to give it more room to move freely.

Sweet, we'll check this out. Wonder what the printing time compares to the other. I'll post a pic of our finished one for comparison.

#363 2 years ago

Well isn't this nifty.

15625407083271674600132700667424 (resized).jpg
#364 2 years ago

Looks like we're making an adjustable chest lid bracket.

#366 2 years ago

Holes are different placement. I guess they didn't need to be exact because the lid never had to meet the chest, lol.

Prototype lexan. Pretty close, fairly adjustable. I'll send one to pinballj so he can cross-test on his lid so we can make sure it at least for on both. I think lexan will be easier for people to modify if absolutely necessary. Oh and this is really thin stuff, I'd probably triple the thickness. Obviously the finished product will be neat and tidy. This was a really rough quick cut (I had to make a few).

I'll include washers now to let the screws move around the slots in the bracket no matter what it's made out of. Probably locking washers too.
0707191637 (resized).jpg

#367 2 years ago

Bonus lighting opportunity. Ordering some 1/4” lexan to test with. This stuff is 1/16 and still performs pretty well.

15625437212984093103577145630865 (resized).jpg

#368 2 years ago

Because I got this question I felt I should just comment that the install will be very easy. The only special tools I think needed so far are a short or stubby phillips screwdriver and 1/4" socket. Probably need a nut driver or sockets for under the playfield (didn't look yet). It looks like there might be a small amount of test fitting on the lid for each chest (line it up and tighten screws). There will be no wires to manually connect (just plug the adapter in to the backbox, all you have to do is take off the glass). I believe this can all be done with only taking the lid off the chest from above the playfield, at least that's how I've done it so far. If you want to do lighting, it's a great time. I'm doing RGB lighting with a heartbeat effect.

If you're concerned about install difficulty, I'll post a quick video overview of the install so you can get an idea if it would be something you couldn't do. I can't see anyone not being able to do this if they have a few basic tools and can follow directions. pinballj made it really easy.
pasted_image (resized).png

Doesn't that galaxy plastic in the back look awesome

#369 2 years ago

Ah ha. JJP gave us 12 and 5v under the playfield right from the power supply.
0707191749 (resized).jpg

2 pin adapter even.

0707191751 (resized).jpg
#370 2 years ago

Harness made, 1' wire at most to the chest. No running power to the back box.

15625476566626402503051154120162 (resized).jpg
#372 2 years ago

Ok, mouser order placed for the wire harness. This keeps getting easier, it's all coming together. What a community effort. Acrylic order placed.

#373 2 years ago
Quoted from arzoo:

That's great news. I've yet to open the back of my pirates, never had any monitor sag.

Mine is hardly closed anymore, lol.

#374 2 years ago

Here are the Mouser part numbers for the power connector if anyone wants to build one. I am using the larger gauge .093 crimp connectors because I'm using larger wire for the passthrough and it was tight today with th smaller connectors. I don't think my crimp tool even supports them, damnit.

Mouser #: 571-14806990
Mfr. #: 1-480699-0
Desc.: Pin & Socket Connectors Pin & Socket Connectors CAP HOUSE 2 POS

Mouser #: 571-3505501
Mfr. #: 350550-1
Desc.: Pin & Socket Connectors Pin & Socket Connectors SOCKET 20-14 AWG

Mouser #: 571-3505471
Mfr. #: 350547-1
Desc.: Pin & Socket Connectors Pin & Socket Connectors PIN 20-14 AWG

Mouser #: 571-14806980
Mfr. #: 1-480698-0
Desc.: Pin & Socket Connectors Pin & Socket Connectors PLUG HOUSE 2 POS

#376 2 years ago
Quoted from Agima2000:

Since the existing mounting holes are very hard to reach, I have a thread cut in there.
This makes assembly a lot easier.

Which holes?

#381 2 years ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

Is all this other stuff going to be included in the kit?

EVERYTHING will be included

#382 2 years ago

I'll test out some lighting with the arduino. I just wrote some code for a WS2812B lighting panel so should be pretty easy to do the same for this. I don't think we would need addressable (although could make some cool effects) but a simple RGB lighting strip would work, which I have plenty of. I'll test out some designs and could offer it as an addon.

#384 2 years ago

No worries at all, I know there is a lot of tech discussion going on here but I guarantee the install is easy enough for pretty much everyone. No parts to buy, nothing to program or figure out. It will all be clearly laid out, easy to connect, etc. The biggest time will be spent aligning the lid, which is not a big deal.

#388 2 years ago

Yeah, I mean I have all the stuff here already so if someone wants I light I can add that in. I'll figure out what the parts cost and add it to the site.

#389 2 years ago
Quoted from Soulrider911:

harryhoudini this one comes up as 3 position
Mouser #: 571-14806980
Mfr. #: 1-480698-0
Desc.: Pin & Socket Connectors Pin & Socket Connectors PLUG HOUSE 2 POS

I think you have to ignore mouser drawings. For some reason theirs aren't as accurate as other sellers. The title says 2 POS and if you look at the datasheet you can see the actual part drawing. Screwy I know and I was worried I wasn't giving proper part numbers because I changed the pin wire size but I've tried to cross reference with molex documentation to confirm that this is all correct. I ordered the same parts from another seller already so I know those 2 product numbers are correct as well (molex part numbers) for the housings.

#391 2 years ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

Did you post a Video of the light in action by any chance?

Ha yea, I forgot I did take video but probably forgot to post it. Again these a prototypes... I have some changes I want to make, again waiting on parts to arrive. I have a digital RGB controller with remote (I mean, why not) and am working on changing the "heartbeat" so it keeps the same RGB color (right now it fades the color as it dims). But you can get the general idea. The light in the chest lid with the lexan won't have to sit at the front so it will give more direct down lighting and I think look better. I'll post a video and pics once I do that install, should be this week and could easily add on before shipping out any orders.

I contacted 2 plastic CNC cutters to see about the Lexan cutting price. I'd rather have them cut precisely if possible. I'm testing out the slots for the screws right now to see what makes sense in terms of how much the lid might need to slide and how off the chest lid holes might be. From what I hear Lexan can't be laser cut so it has to be CNC (or maybe waterjet). Going to keep this design flexible enough for everyone to just screw in no matter how off their holes are. So you can slide the piece front to back on the lid and a little side to side. You can slide the hinge left to right and up and down. So you can see in my pic prior that I was able to take that sliding lid (without making it specific to my chest) and align it perfectly.

Again, shitty camera... I'm going to grab my DSLR from my shop with baffled lighting that we used to shoot product photo and video for another venture and take some way better shots and video. The purple hue is killing me.

Oh I should add this is without the arduino, I made this before we started this discussion. I'll wire it up to the nano and write some code to see how it looks. I imagine it should be great. The addressable RGB strips used for the starmap lighting are controlled by a nano so I have some code already done and know it works. Hummm.. would probably have to add a button to the nano so you could cycle through color options in this scenario (since we wouldn't need the RGB controller). Eh, either way it's possible.

#393 2 years ago

I shouldn't post this... but... if we could read the signals from the chest optos we could control the lights based on how many balls are in there.

Oy. That's gonna have to be later, if at all.

#398 2 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

So off in Super-OCD land, I have the connectors and wiring worked out for the one I'm making for the one here. As was previously discussed, I won't be using the USB for power to avoid stability issues. The connector opposite the servo and switch on the top of the nano box will be connected to the ATX power supply's 5v.[quoted image]

That is sweet looking. I posted above for the 5v power connector, we're going to solder to the board too.

#399 2 years ago

We're cooking with fire now boys!

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#401 2 years ago
Quoted from pinballj:

Excellent work vireland and harryhoudini!
This seems to be coming together nicely

It's all you. We're just feeding on the tiny fish that follow around the huge whale.

#402 2 years ago

Btw, if anyone has a CNC cutter and wants to cut a lid bracket I'll post the AI file I'm making for the CNC guy locally. Here's the basic shape based on my prototype. I need to refine, elongate the holes and contract some dimensions to give enough play.

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#404 2 years ago
Quoted from Trooper11040:

I have a CNC machine...send me the file! Let me know what I should cut it out from

Oh man, we need to talk! I'm going to test 1/4" lexan/polycarbonate. I think that's a good thickness and will work, but I've only used 1/32" so far. The question is if there are any obstructions caused by the 1/4". I don't think so because pinballj's lid that he 3D printed is at least that thick. I suppose you could cut it from almost anything to test, wood or plastic.

I'll send/post it when ready.

#406 2 years ago
Quoted from Soulrider911:

I have a pretty accurate ai version as well based off the original bracket to the 1/4 mm

Did you do any slots or adjustments? I think that's the crucial part.. we've already seen two lids don't have the same screw pattern. I'm planning on something like this. Btw, this is accurate to my proto measure with calipers. I just eyeballed the slots so I think I'll test print a really thin 3D one on this new fancy printer.

Actually, those narrow slots need to be wider. Needs a little left to right movement. But really those are less critical as the plate can be stationary and the hinge is actually what gets adjusted.

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#408 2 years ago
Quoted from gumnut01:

Gosh! That’s more impressive than my inkjet!


#410 2 years ago
Quoted from gumnut01:

What’s the return period like?

LOL... naw, this is my new rapid prototyper!

#413 2 years ago

I guess I could also print in clear. I'm printing a test version of my file today. We'll see

#414 2 years ago
Quoted from pinballj:

Btw, it definitely doesn't have to be as thick as the one I sent you harryhoudini . My proto used a steel plate, and I wanted to try out a 3d printed bracket. I just wasnt sure how flimsy it would be, even with an 80% fill. I printed a 3mm thick without the ribs at 100% last night and it is a little flimsy, but not too bad.

Cool, waiting to see your file too.

#415 2 years ago

Woot, pretty easy learning curve.. already printing a test lid bracket. Forgot to change filament so it is white, but I'll test clear. Wonder how much light will get transmitted or diffused through the clear.

#416 2 years ago

I guess I already did list the chest lighting mod. This was my first version (using RGB 5050 strips without addressable lights and a RGB controller). I think the price can stay the same and I can do the addressable lights connected to the arduino which should give the heartbeat option and the color selection. Gonna have to get some buttons for the arduino and write some more code but it should work out. I was going to list a specific one for the "upgrade" to the chest actuating kit but this should work out the same.

So if you want to add this to your order let me know. You can paypal me directly and not pay any shipping on it.


Added 21 months ago:

I guess I already did list the chest lighting mod. This was my first version (using RGB 5050 strips without addressable lights and a RGB controller). I think the price can stay the same and I can do the addressable lights connected to the arduino which should give the heartbeat option and the color selection. Gonna have to get some buttons for the arduino and write some more code but it should work out. I was going to list a specific one for the "upgrade" to the chest actuating kit but this should work out the same.

So if you want to add this to your order let me know. You can paypal me directly and not pay any shipping on it.


#419 2 years ago

I'm just about done. I noticed today that the original lid bracket does have slots for the screws This one is 2mm thick and just about the right dimensions. I moved the screw slots to be a bit more centered and I was off on the hinge slots. Printing another one right now.

CPR replied, they said they could cut it and I sent them a preliminary CNC file. They have 3/16" poly in stock which I think is probably more than thick enough. I got my 1/4 in today so I'll confirm with that, 1/16" isn't going to be a big deal. I know they can turn it around quick so hopefully I hear from Kevin tomorrow and can determine if it is cost prohibitive. I don't think it will be.

I started working on the LED program. I think I'll have to add two buttons to the Arduino, one to select light color and one to select effect (right now just planning on heart beat and always on). The LED will go off when the chest closes. For those who don't get the light mod right away, I'm going to see what it will take to add a plug or header to the board which will let you plug it in later.

For those who said the headers wouldn't fit, why?

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#420 2 years ago
Quoted from Soulrider911:

Test print, arm needs to be longer[quoted image]

LOL... dude, are we sitting at our houses designing and printing the same thing?! Swap when we're done?

My hinge holes are going to be bigger than yours to let there be enough play to move it around for all trunk lids to be adjusted.

PS - I also have a black stool and a gray towel where I am working. WTF?

#423 2 years ago

Uhhh... dude... first time I'M USING A 3D PRINTER! We are the same person.

#424 2 years ago

Brackets. PETG Lid

0710191155 (resized).jpg1562785015085455541548613667446 (resized).jpg
#425 2 years ago

I'll get some black for the lids if I print them

#426 2 years ago

1562785949758921961249842411639 (resized).jpg

Oops, I had it on backwards. Just test fit and it's really close. Need to move the tab, make a small adjustment for the ball guide on the main chest bracket (it's touching) and I'm moving the slots for everything just a bit more so it's "centered" and allows the most adjustment.

Btw, all lid parts will black or clear. This is all just test stuff. Hinges are black from the factory and we'll print the lid bracket in black, paint it or it will be clear Lexan. Gonna bug CPR again today to get a price.

#428 2 years ago

I wrote a whole message about yea, I'll offer the light, PM me, etc. Screw it, here's the light, same price as the stand alone version (although this is more work). Throw it on to an existing order or order it stand alone. If you already ordered the mod, not a problem. We'll see you have two orders and combine them. If the shipping is somehow outrageous (I think I set it really low) let me know and I'll refund it back to you. International customers especially.


#430 2 years ago
Quoted from GCS2000:

My apologies didn't catch that the light mod with programming was on the table yet. Thought that was still being considered.
Anyway awesome news consider the order placed!

It was... now it is, lol. It's almost a "why not" kind of thing, it's all "there" to connect to. Seems like a must do.

#431 2 years ago

I think I'm good on the lid bracket. I made some cutouts so, hopefully, no matter where you position it the bracket will clear all of the ball guides and such. I'm printing out a 3/16" version now which is the thickness that CPR has available to test depth.

This is NOT a guaranteed finished file, but here it is if anyone wants to edit it and mess with it: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1VdG6IcqinbfTz28lur5y9sYQrOs3GC07

#434 2 years ago

First rough pass at the heartbeat. I am going to mess with the timing to have it be a bit more "heartbeatish" and then I have to program the button functions and figure out how to store shit on the Arduino. First time programming these nifty little guys.

Don't worry about the single LED there... it's just my demo. I'll be using a strip with maybe 4-5 LEDs on it. I also have the brightness turned way down on this.

Edit... I'm too good

#438 2 years ago
Quoted from gumnut01:

Looks good. Where to install so effective, robust and not fugly?
In lid, is this a problem with wires going up past hinge?
To the right in the chest where the gap is, is this effective to light the chest?
Or underneath the chest?

It goes in the lid. I already have mine in there (the stand alone one I made) without the clear bracket. It will be even better with the clear bracket. I already posted the video somewhere (maybe here) but it's not on my site yet... trying to get a new site up that's way better. I'm gonna see if I can mount these right to the plastic before I ship so there is no install need for anyone. The wires just follow the rest of the chest wires down the back, my install took about maybe 10 minutes. The only thing I had to do was remove the lid.

Here is a video of that stand alone one. The one for the chest lid mod will be basically the same. You won't have unlimited choices in color but I'll give plenty of options by button press. You can just cycle through the colors and choose what you want.

#444 2 years ago

Sweet. Haven't programmed yet. Working on the lighting code and buttons.

#445 2 years ago

Printed a clear one to test.
15631683568281687555247030156185 (resized).jpg

I bet I could use a different infill to get better light transmission. Still does a pretty good job and diffuses it as well.

#449 2 years ago

Cool I'll test infill 100%. It's PeTG, really strong, I've tried to break the tab. I can definitely add some ribs but I'm still thinking cpr will do this. I'm getting him a new file today.

#451 2 years ago

That's what thickness I went with on this one.

#452 2 years ago

Controller with socketed connections for everything including light mod add-on. Production sample.

15632362609311541893545300106566 (resized).jpg

#454 2 years ago

Using the semi-clear bracket I posted prior, here is the light mod working off the controller. The only piece I need (aside from the CPR plastic lid) is the button array. I am waiting for UPS to get here so I can test that out. It's a 2 or 4 button array (not sure which I am going with) which will be included with the controller so you can set the lighting color and effect.

#457 2 years ago
Quoted from gumnut01:

Your wife has nice hands.

uhhh. Should I tell you?

#459 2 years ago
Quoted from Soulrider911:

Are you powering the arduino through the usb, or the gnd and VIN pin

Latter.. using the power adapter I made.

#460 2 years ago

She's got this, you guys.

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#462 2 years ago

Nice! CPR just told me they shipped the lid brackets as well

#464 2 years ago

Buttons are here! Since there are four, let's see what I can make them do. One for color, one for brightness (maybe two, one up one down) and one for effect. Seems about right.

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#468 2 years ago

We have at least 20-30 chest mods complete. The piece that we are waiting on right now to arrive from Canada is the clear lexan lid that CPR cut for us. They shipped a first batch of 50 or so to me last week. Once that arrives I just have to test fit. I am finishing up some of the arduino programming to work with the buttons for the light controls. If you did not order the light add-on we will probably start shipping your mods in order, shortly. Once the lights are done we will ship the rest in order. More brackets are on their way from Geteos so we'll be able to keep production running. My wife has completed all of the wiring harnesses so it's just a matter of building the bracket pieces for the ones that are on the way.

#473 2 years ago

Damnit UPS

In Transit 07/23/2019 1:21 A.M. East Syracuse, NY, United States
Past Event Shipped 07/18/2019 7:00 P.M. Dartmouth, NS, Canada

I guess maybe customs? I don't know. 5 freaking days.

Sorry guys, still waiting on the lexan lid brackets. In the meantime we're hard at work assembling everything else. I think we're on track to have 40 done shortly, so once the lid comes in we should be shooting these all your way.

If anyone still wants just the bracket and the lexan lid (perfect for lighting mods) I can add those to the site

#476 2 years ago
Quoted from fifou313:

Do you plan to make a full kit with the mecanism and the light?

If you buy both items (even if they are in seperate orders) we will install the light on the lid and provide the necessary connections to hook it up to the controller. IF we ship out the chest mod first and you didn't get the light, it's an easy install. We designed the arduino connections so you can add the light later. The install of it on the chest is really simple, basically just attach it to the lexan lid bracket and run the wires down.


I know it got confusing, this all came together quickly. We've gone through orders and matched up who ordered what, contacted those people who may have just ordered a lighting mod and not the chest mod, etc. If there are any questions feel free to PM me or contact us on the site.

I don't recall if anyone else did this but since our kit is a slightly different I'll be doing an install video once we get the lids. Or maybe I'll do it with the prototype lid so everyone can watch it ahead of time

Added 21 months ago:

Do you plan to make a full kit with the mecanism and the light?

If you buy both items (even if they are in seperate orders) we will install the light on the lid and provide the necessary connections to hook it up to the controller. IF we ship out the chest mod first and you didn't get the light, it's an easy install. We designed the arduino connections so you can add the light later. The install of it on the chest is really simple, basically just attach it to the lexan lid bracket and run the wires down.


I know it got confusing, this all came together quickly. We've gone through orders and matched up who ordered what, contacted those people who may have just ordered a lighting mod and not the chest mod, etc. If there are any questions feel free to PM me or contact us on the site.

I don't recall if anyone else did this but since our kit is a slightly different I'll be doing an install video once we get the lids. Or maybe I'll do it with the prototype lid so everyone can watch it ahead of time

#480 2 years ago
Quoted from dts:

I can’t get a sense of how much difference the led kit makes. Is it interactive?

Yeah, like Soulrider911 said it has some controls. It turns on and off when the chest opens and closes. It has an option to be steady on or have a heartbeat type effect. And you can choose the shade of color. I posted some videos here, I'll find them and link and put them on the website too.

Btw, here is the finished controller with the lighting buttons attached. Plug and play baby!
pasted_image (resized).png

#484 2 years ago
Quoted from Trooper11040:

each one except one had some issue. The supports were taking off the little nubs to hold the wires

Heh. This is my first time with a 3D printer, I've had so much fun with supports and threads and adhesion. Oh the joy. Luckily for everyone I am not doing the printing for most any of the production pieces we sell.

#490 2 years ago

Now we got the kid working.

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#495 2 years ago
Quoted from RTS:

HarryHoudini someone suggested that the lid should open slowly but close quickly kinda like gravity slamming it shut.
I agree that this would look better than a slow open and a slow close. Dropping shut would seem like a more realistic effect.
Any chance of implementing this or having it as an option while waiting on parts?

If you get the lighting mod it comes with 4 buttons. I was thinking one button might give that kind of control. I haven't looked yet, but could be feasible. Could have button option without lighting, I suppose as well.

Oh my list to look in to.

#497 2 years ago
Quoted from wesman:

Do you recommend light rubber pieces for the trunks lips, or does this even close hard or abrasively?

It's fairly soft

#499 2 years ago

What you're doing is everything right! Funny enough, I'm going to be doing the same this weekend so I can make an entertaining video for all the kits we're sending out. I keep watching the CPR package for the lid plastics and they are due here Monday, still! So, all barring any issues we are going to be shipping kits very soon.

#506 2 years ago

We used the connector for solderless replacement

#514 2 years ago

Lids arrived, we're going to put together a video of the install and the full action with the light option/function. Probably have that ready this weekend with kits starting to ship then. At this point I need to go through a complete install and work on any kinks, make sure I cover any possibilities and get everything packaged up.

I think we sold around 50 kits, maybe a few more, so very cool. I also wanted to mention that we are making sure pinballj is getting covered for his time, work and costs put in to developing this. It really is very slick.

#522 2 years ago
Quoted from Trooper11040:

What’s the 2-56 hex nuts for in this setup?

Top of the rod to the chest lid? I can confirm, but it won't be until Sat.

Quoted from dts:

Scott, is there a way to keep the lid open during multiball while the balls are being unloaded? I assume that would require a delay of some sort. Looks great, good work! I was gonna rig a rod from the fork solenoid but it looks like more wear and tear that way.

Off the top of my head the only way I could see this happening is by knowing how many balls are in the chest. So the opto signal would need to be read (with a wiring harness to split it) or another switch would need to be added. Or reading the coil signal for 3 quick activations. Maybe I'm missing some obvious logic.

#529 2 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

I think I used a 8-32 Type F thread-cutting screw (there aren't any threads on the fork assembly holes).


Quoted from KLR2014:

I ordered a kit on 12-7. What will I be getting because I see a lot of variations mentioned in this topic.

Everyone is getting the same thing from us. I am doing the install video this weekend so you'll be able to see in living color the process and components.

Quoted from Trooper11040:

And the trunk mod is done!!!! This is freaking awesome!!!



Btw... the lexan lid is saaaaaaaaaaweeeeeeeeeet

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#538 2 years ago

Sure, I'll post it, no problem. Still making a few changes but once it's good I'll link to it.

#540 2 years ago

Here is an introduction video to the chest mod pieces and how you'll get the items from us. Some had asked to see what was involved with the install and this gives a short overview of how this gets installed on the game. I didn't show removing the lid, it's a pretty simple procedure and I have a video of that as well which will be combined into an install video. Again, this isn't an install video, which I am making and will be more in depth.

Looks like we have about 45 or so of the mods that will be shipping out this week. They will go in order, obviously, so you'll get a shipping notification if you are in those first 45. I think we'll have another 30 or more going out next week, which should be close to covering all of the orders.

#544 2 years ago

For the LED mod there are 16 brightness levels and 20 colors settable via the button controller as well as an on/off for the heartbeat. Should be enough to suit most needs.

#545 2 years ago
Quoted from tgrinchy:

Looks great! Lexan lid looks really nice too. Do those lid screws need washers? The heads seemed a little small around those slots but could just be the angle.

You're right that they are close, but they have a decent amount of coverage on the slots that they aren't going anywhere.

#547 2 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

Putting a led matrix below the chest to light the playfield under the chest when the chest shot is open can't be done. The playfield is too reflective and you see all the leds. I'll be moving it behind the chest and reflecting it into that area instead, but it cannot be directly lit.

Oh man, that's a good idea. What about diffusing it with some opaque plastic?

Would love to see pics of the effect when you have time.

#555 2 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

Two questions on this video.
Why did you use the optional 4-way connector on the servo instead of the 2-way arm it also comes with?
Also, the Steel kwik-link rods come with an end that has a springloaded clip that can snap into the holes on the servo arms eliminating the need for any other parts to connect the rod to the servo arm. I used the second hole from the end and drilled it out a smidge more to make the rod move freely once snapped into the servo arm holes, but this eliminates one whole other part.

I don't know why the 4-way arm. That's just what pinballj's prototype showed up with. Does it matter? I think they are the same length arms on each?

I think the thinking on the kwik-link arms was to provide somewhat unlimited adjustability. If you use the arm and the threaded end is at the servo are you bending the upper end? Seems like that's sort of almost semi-permanent whereas the other way you can just slide it in and out of the bushing on the servo. I wanted to do a sort of "T" barrel type slip joint at the top but this way seems to work just fine.

#556 2 years ago

The kids have been busy making boxes!

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#560 2 years ago
Quoted from pinballj:

Yeah sorry about the confusion on the 4 way arm use. It was just the first one I grabbed. Really any of them would work (but I dont have OCD either lol).
On the kwik link, I did end up using the threaded rod end w the clevis to go on the servo instead of the mini connector on mine (either way works), and then using a little ball end that has a set screw on the side for the end to the chest top.
This also allows for you to unscrew the kwik link altogether from the top of the playfield, if you ever wanted to get into the chest. Of course I can't think of why you would want to do that. Maybe have a party. Oooh a disco party with @harryhoudini's light mod!
Nice work on your nano bracket @vireland! I like the labels too![quoted image]

Got a link for that part? That would probably be a much better solution, but we just went with what was on the BOM and in the original instructions.

#562 2 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

The Servo on the BOM came with 3 or 4 arms, including the 2 way one.
amazon.com link »
And then I just clipped on the kwik-link spring-loaded end onto the second from the last hole on the 2-way arm after drilling it out a very small smidge so the hole was a little bigger and the link moved easier:
amazon.com link »

Ah, I was meaning for the clevis or ball end that pinballj used at the top. I don't want to ship all of these with a lesser solution if there is something better. We've install all of the bushings on the servos but we can probably get those changed over pretty quickly if there is a better method.

#564 2 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

The clevis clip is the part that goes on the servo end (it comes with the Kwik link rod). snapping into one of the holes on the arm.
You can just use the Du-Bro 605 E-Z Connector with the set screw only and not use the other parts of it for the top.

LOL, ok so all the same parts (minus the need for the nut) just reversed basically, and using the clevis from the rod. Ok. I'll go mess around and see what we need to swap.

#569 2 years ago

Ok, gonna talk with my wife and see how much it would take to change. If not easy enough to keep on track we'll give easy change instructions. I suppose both ways could work so two options.

#576 2 years ago

Well, regarding the situation with the clips/nuts it really is no question at all because all of the same parts will be included so anyone could reconfigure it if they wanted. I'll just cover both in the install video. The rod is really the major adjustment point either way so people will have to mess with it one way or another.

#578 2 years ago

I'll post an entire install video for sure, what I've posted so far is only an overview. We are shipping out the first batch, I should have time this weekend to finish filming and editing.

#579 2 years ago

Here are some updates. After test fitting we decided to enlarge the holes in the lid plate. Trying to give as much latitude to the chest lid alignment as possible. There was a bit of reconfiguring of the wiring we did to offload all of the power requirements to the 5v plug and not running the power through the Arduino. The servo code was rewritten to be non-blocking, in fact everything is now non-blocking so there is no conflict between any processes that delay. The heartbeat, keypresses and chest movement are all on independent timers. Basically, unless you care about tech junk, ignore all this. Just a small update to what we've been doing.

A small team of elves have been putting everything together so there is no building when you get the parts, just install. We are also including the 2-leg servo horn (arms) that came with the servo if you want to swap them out for whatever reason. Also included is an additional snap on for the E-Z connectors in case you want to move them around. The quick link rods have been cut to both fit in the boxes and to not have too much hanging out of the servo. Again, nothing for most people to worry about but I'll cover this all in the video.

If you get an automated tracking number email by this weekend then you're in the first group for shipments. Post here or PM me for any questions on install. The video will be up this weekend covering the full install. I suspect there will be some questions that I may not cover, things we are just taking for granted that regular owners may not know about or have understanding of. I'll be around to answer questions and fix any issues that arise.

#580 2 years ago

A little thank you for your patience, everyone who ordered the chest mod is getting a prototype of a new product were working on. Seems obvious, but I don't see them anywhere and I want something like this. Simply, they are composite thumb nuts in multiple sizes, shapes and colors. I wanted them for plastics because I am constantly taking them off and on and the anodized nuts look horrible after a few uses. We did several rounds of testing and I think our latest design works really well for something generic and easy to use. I wouldn't use this design for plastics but I think for areas where it is hard to reach or you have to mess with the nuts (heh) a lot these could be really handy. It's a pain to remove the nuts behind the chest for the lid, so now if you want you can use these thumb nuts to reinstall the lid, or anywhere else you want. Obviously, these are coming in the default color of silver but we plan to have many colors, finishes and designs. Some game specific designs to blend in, some generic designs that might fit in with many games. These are made of a metal blended PLA so they are stronger than just plastic. We are experimenting with metallic colors as well as carbon fiber.

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#583 2 years ago

Why's it a different harness?

#585 2 years ago

Oooo ok, so you didn't make it passthrough, got it. Just making sure I didn't miss something different on the SE (but I'm pretty sure I had someone look at their SE before we made the power connectors)

#587 2 years ago
Quoted from Trooper11040:

It didn’t need to pass thru as mine ends there. I’m sure on the LE, that harness goes somewhere...maybe to the star map?

The connector we used comes off the PCB in the bottom right of the playfield. It's a lead from the power supply directly, actually, goes to the PCB. I think it's a switch control board. Off the ATX connector on the PCB there is a 2 pin molex plug that is just dangling there, I think. I don't think it plugs in to anything originally, but maybe I just had mine unplugged. You may not even need a passthrough, we just designed it that way for interoperability, don't want to take over a plug.

#589 2 years ago

To clarify, and update all the places we talked about this, I believe the connector we are using goes to the BP main light board. That's why it's passthrough, but I didn't have my BP in the game when I looked at it (and totally forgot about that, duh) so that is why I wasn't sure. The one you used could probably just be fine as well, the power usage on this is pretty darn minimal.

#590 2 years ago

Maybe this will satiate your appetite until your mods arrive. Still working on the full install video, but I created this a bit ago and forgot to post it. Here is a brief into to the advanced control you get with the lighting mod.

#592 2 years ago

Phew, what a weekend. I have almost all of the video done, just going through the alignment procedure a few times to make sure I covered it all. The other parts are all uploaded to Youtube, just need to put them on the website and I'll post here so you can start watching. They are split up in to logical sections so you can just watch the video you need.

We got a bunch more mod pieces made for the next shipment. I found out the thumb nut concept we printed and included are just a bit too big and may get in the way of the lid opening all the way, oh well. Free nuts for whatever you might want. We are also including some pirate standup target decals because the printer screwed up and sent us a whole ton of them. They go on the pirate standup left of the chest, but you can use them on any rectangular stand-up. Or toss them, we have way too many.

I haven't heard back from CPR on our 2nd lid order. We had to order more because apparently people really want this mod. I hope to hear from them tomorrow that they already shipped. Either way, we'll have everything ready to ship for the 2nd batch by the time they arrive. I think almost all orders should be covered in that. Maybe a few that happened in the last week or so might not be covered, but I think we built enough once we add those in.

#595 2 years ago

Still working on the video, wanted to get more shipped out today so I am working on the video tonight. We're getting caught up! Heard from CPR today, they are finishing the lids and going to 2nd day the box to us, so hopefully that gets out today or tomorrow.

#597 2 years ago

Here's the intro to the parts that come with the kit, video 1:

#598 2 years ago

Chest mod babies

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#604 2 years ago

We're getting caught up. Different supplier delays for both the chest mod and the backboard lighting have caused us to rearrange timelines as we had to. I understand the wait annoyance, we're pushing through them as quickly as we can. Now that we are waiting for the CPR delivery we are catching up on other orders. There were a lot of coordinate because many people kept ordering new items, wanting to add on to previous orders, especially the lighting mod. Unlike most online stores we tried to be accommodating of all changes given the somewhat new nature of the products we kept adding to our offering, like the chest lighting mod which was a late addition. Thanks for the patience guys, we're working on it!

#605 2 years ago
Quoted from fifou313:

Could you make a vid to show us where to use all these screws??

Heh, yeah... I have 4 or 5 more segments to post. I am reshooting one today that was a bit confusing after watching it a few times. Then I'll post, should be in time for all those who are getting the first batch.

#607 2 years ago

I can read in to that, Scott's really anal.

Yeah, just a few people putting this stuff together in our spare time. Trying to walk the line of not over-promising and under delivering, but I think there's a bit of leeway when it comes to the unknown of a lot of this stuff while we develop it and trying to accomodate the things people ask for, like the lighting mod controls and the speed on the chest. That's why I try to keep the threads updated with progress, although the starmap one did get a bit behind as we focused on this chest one.

#609 2 years ago
Quoted from gumnut01:

And the trip to the Bahamas would have slowed things down as well.


#611 2 years ago
Quoted from dts:

I was gonna rig my own primitive version directly from the solenoid but am happy to support your more elegant solution! The extra features are appreciated.

It's mostly pinballj and other people here who asked for stuff. I just took their good ideas, lol. It was a great time figuring it all out, now I have plans for several other Arduino based mods.

#613 2 years ago

Didn't have far to travel

Videos today, I think. Still trying to get as many out as we can. CPR order is shipping today, so we should be close to getting a bunch more out this week if we get them by Friday but who knows with customs.