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(Topic ID: 244666)

JJPOTC Treasure Chest Open/Close mod, now working!

By pinballj

1 year ago

Topic Stats

  • 1,288 posts
  • 119 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 11 days ago by Jecco74
  • Topic is favorited by 90 Pinsiders


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Topic index (key posts)

4 key posts have been marked in this topic

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Post #7 Working prototype video Posted by pinballj (1 year ago)

Post #185 Everything needed to make your own chest-opening mod... Posted by pinballj (1 year ago)

Post #615 Code for lighting mod controller Posted by harryhoudini (1 year ago)

Post #925 Adjusting switch for mod when chest lid doesn't work Posted by harryhoudini (1 year ago)

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#43 1 year ago

That is a dream mod, please go forward with it and make it happen. I am in for sure.

#84 1 year ago
Quoted from zaphX:

See, I love this solution. What you crafted here is exactly what I hoped to get. Nothing against the OP but I like the simplicity - no additional switch/servo in the mix, and the action 100% synced with the fork mech. Violence on the bracket doesn't bother me, but I really would like to hear how/why this mech was abandoned. Specifically what the problem(s) were with it.
Also, did you take any video of it in action?

Sorry, but that mech does not look very reliable. It serves two purposes simultaneously, raising the fork and opening the chest. The chest cover is massive and the small metal post needs power to open it. The cover in the picture looks not aligned with the base chest anyway.

A motorized mech seems favorably at least on the long run.

#103 1 year ago
Quoted from zaphX:

Maybe the issue with the chest wasn't the mech at all.
Maybe it was wear on the chest banging open and shut. I can see the paint wearing off of the prototype pics. Something we can mitigate with cabinet bumpers or something most likely.
Another possible reason for the chest nerf - maybe there was lack of consistency on the lids in terms of alignment with the chest?

A lot of speculation why it was not working. But obviously there was a problem, perhaps with the chest lid or with the forks. As a consequence, I see no logic to rebuild something that was obviously not working reliable.

Instead of this mechanical opening mech, I prefer the "new" electric solution, which seems to lead to less pressure on the chest and the forks.

#108 1 year ago
Quoted from zaphX:

Yes, you've made that clear.

Sorry, don't want to bother or bore you.

#111 1 year ago
Quoted from steigerpijp:

I think its the negative vibe and lack of positive input that triggered the initial response towards yourself
We’re all on the same team trying to get this cool mech revived for all to enjoy and I suspect no more than a handfull have actually dared to pull apart the situation to inspect how things actually work down there , but some who didnt dig deeper seem more informed than those who did.
Doubt this will be a home run for mechanical or electrical option in the first innings . Work in progress!

Sorry, it was never meant as negative vibe, so I apologize if that was misunderstood. I am really happy and thankful that you start developing that mode. I only tried to describe my personal opinion. But if your mech works, the better for all of us.

1 month later
#574 1 year ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

The 4-way vs 2-way arm doesn’t seem to matter; its preferable to attach the servo using the spring clip - just one less part to come loose - but it will work fine either way.

The spring clip solution seems to be more reliable long term for me, because the screw solution possibly gets week over time. However possibly better adjustable. So pros and cons.

Regarding 4 or 2 arms no issue generally. But due to small space under the playfield 2 arms preferable.

#581 1 year ago

Thank you, good idea! We test it and provide you with a feedback.

#601 1 year ago
Quoted from Trooper11040: that the chest mod is done, you need to finish the star map mod that folks paid for...I know I paid you weeks ago for like to finally get mine!

I think Scott has done a great job especially from the creative side. Creative people need some time. Don't put to much pressure on him. He has several projects running. Better getting a great mod later than an early mod with problems.

#603 1 year ago
Quoted from Trooper11040:

I'm not putting pressure on posted a comment weeks ago saying they would ship within 2 weeks...I paid for an item...I'd just like my item! I don't see nothing wrong with that...I've talked to Scott via email and on here...I know the chest mod took on a lot but sometimes you need to take care of the other orders that came in!

I have several orders running as well and I am looking forward to getting this Christmas package in August already. The longer it takes the more excited you (and me) are

#719 1 year ago

Scott, I remember that you wanted to add a video regarding the de-installation of the chest lid. Do you still plan to publish one? I have no idea how to separate the lid from the chest, especially without damaging the optos (where are the optos by the way?).

2 weeks later
#824 1 year ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

You bet. I am finishing some star map lighting tonight and I'll get on that video. I just need to do some editing, I think, to add it back in to that video.

Hi Scott, did you succeed in finalizing the de-install video of the chest lid? Would be great, because I would prefer having a complete set of instructions before starting the mod install.

Thank you!

#827 1 year ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

pinballj created it, we sell the kit:

He's asking about the initial removing of the chest lid.
I found it! Not sure why it wasn't part of the other video but here is the specific chest lid removal portion:

Thanks Scott, you are perfect.

Why is it necessary to remove the coil before unscrewing the two screws of the lid? It seems that the unscrewing can be made without touching the coil.

Second, some concerns were raised that the optos might break when installing the lid. Is that an issue? I do not see any optos which might be in danger.

#830 1 year ago
Quoted from vireland:

The optos are black and very hard to see, even in real-life given the cramped conditions. The problem is not that you break the opto itself, but that you pop the opto off (they're held on by little clips) by making contact with the opto body and in trying to snap the opto back on, you break the tiny, fragile clip, which is very easy to do if you don't know what you're doing. Once the clip is broken, the opto won't stay in place and you need a new opto.
BTW, I didn't remove the coil. The access is tight, but it is do-able without removing the coil and just putting the coil cover to the side.

Ok, understand, thanks.

#891 1 year ago

Just installed Davy Jones heart. The stock led is behind it (I de installed the led and turned it to the front), so it is blinking when the chest lock is on. Working on the green chest lighting and a red heart beating.

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#892 1 year ago

I am experimenting a bit with the connection between lid and servo. The metal rod is very stiff and due to the tweeking of the rod at the top it seems that there is a little turning pressure at the servo connection. I tried a cord (nylon cord might be good as well), and it works quite well. There is no obstacle, the cord moves without touching cables or playfield.

#900 1 year ago
Quoted from VillaThrills:

Any pics? Sounds like a good idea.

I enclose a picture, you see that my prototype was high level science, lol. Simply bend a cord at the lid hole and the hole in the moving servo arm, where normally the rod is fixed, no big Thing.

As Scott explains, the thickness of the lid plastic together with the benting of the metal rod at the top leads to a moving/turning side pressure of the rod when teh lid opens. You can feel that when you push the rod down with your hand when the rod is not fixed at the servo. Due to the fixing of the rod, the turning movement is transferred to the top, which leads to a rough opening movement of the lid. The other disadvantage is that there is permanent pressure on the servo and the arm.

A cord avoids this pressure on servo/arm. However, my "prototype" Installation does not move smoothly, which seems to be due to the movement of the metal stick during the opening process. I think the crucial point is how to realize a smooth travel of the cord in the lid plastic whole during the opening. My next approach would be to use a metal washer with a pearl on top (see picture), just an idea. Very easy to install and the pearl moving during the opening might lead to a smooth opening, I will see. But everybody can test as well or contribute other ideas in this regard.

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#902 1 year ago
Quoted from vireland:

If you just use the rod as intended (the other way around), there's no pressure/problem. Use the screw-on clip that comes with these on the threaded end for the servo snap-on and a slide-on barrel at the lid end. No problems.

I installed it as Scott described in the install video. Especially bend the top of the metal rod a bit to the direction of the hole. Thus I get pressure on the rod during the opening.

But that brings me to another idea. Possibly, when using the rod, it is better to use a pearl at the top instead of a flat Clip, so that the rod can move easier. Buit just my 2 cents. Everybody on his/her own.

#904 1 year ago
Quoted from vireland:

Here's the correct installation and orientation. Threads at the bottom by the servo to hold on to the clevis/clip that snaps onto the servo arm holes and then the barrel with the set screw at the top to hold the lid and because the barrel is rounded, there's no problems as it moves up and down on top of the chest lid tab.
[quoted image]

Ok, good to know. As far as I remember, Scott used the barrel at the arm of the servo and replaces the clip by a nylon screw. But your installation order makes more sense, thanks a lot!

2 weeks later
#1010 1 year ago
Quoted from javagrind888:

I'll check it, but I could swear I only have it about halfway through the nut.

I had similar problems, the lid opened, but not very smoothly, due to the stiffness of the rod and the thickness of the plastic. As mentioned here before, I used a cord instead of the rod and I am very satisfied with the result. Possibly a nylon cord might be an even better solution, I used a normal cord.

#1014 1 year ago

Might be too thick and is a bit stiff. I would prefer a soft cord or nylon. But give it a try, perhaps it works.

#1015 1 year ago

I used this type of cord.

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#1058 1 year ago

Installed a skull at the end of the clear plastic with the hole for the rod in order to cover the plastic look a bit. The skull bubbles a bit when the lid opens, was not planned but looks nice. Provides some counterweight as well for the lid and makes the opening a bit easier for the servo.

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3 months later
#1179 9 months ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

I sanded the black 3D printed lid a little bit and I think it went down a tad. Do you agree?
If the gap is normal, I guess I should go on to the next stage....
[quoted image]

I have similar space in the back, but put some foam in the front to have a better/cleaner closure of the lid.

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