This version can work permanently if the trunk gets a stable attachment.

We've already seen broken trunk brackets.

Ok cool, I thought I could hard wire it to the board. Going to make a cable that goes to the atx 5v.

I’ve been thinking more about the power supply... could also get a 12v to 5v regulator and then just tap into any 12v source
https://www.getfpv.com/diatone-5v-500ma-voltage-regulator.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&adpos=1o5&scid=scplp4490&sc_intid=4490&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI1IPh1dSj4wIVh8pkCh2LLAqzEAQYBSABEgKcofD_BwE

Another option
Wirelessan 4pcs DC 7-24V In 5V Out Voltage Step Down Converter/Regulator for FPV Transmitter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076WNNX78/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ZJLiDbVVEAYSX

So far so good servo working.

683549F4-D63C-4E02-A543-4395891E84E0 (resized).jpeg

Better yet, has anyone asked Eric Hogbog personally, what their method was going to be?

I agree this is complex, but I’m excited to get it going... however I’m more into DIY “projects” and I know that’s not for everyone

Okay, here's a link to the revised jjPotC bracket and nano box that snaps into the revised bracket to clean up the look of the install:

http://www.irelandfamily.com/pinside/Base_Arduino-box-and-bracket.zip

I'll leave it up for the forseeable future and you can use it as you like.

Note that the nano box works better getting into and out of the clips if you slide it in from the outside and then shift it over and press down. It clips in VERY snug by design. It's not going anywhere.

Also, the nano itself clips into the nano box very snug as well. If you're having problems getting it to snap in, just use needlenose pliers to compress the angled plastic pieces that go around the mini USB connector a little to give it more room to move freely.

Yeah, I think buck boards are cheaper but same idea. So the question is run the wire up to the backbox or connect to 12v spotlight circuit with a converter. I sort of like the idea of keeping it off the game's power board. Not that there should be any concern. I put lights on the spotlight circuits, so not sure what real difference we're talking about in terms of preventing issue. Going to the backbox also keeps another "device" out of the loop (converter) so that's sort of a plus. Lower cost I would imagine for the wire and plug.

Sweet, we'll check this out. Wonder what the printing time compares to the other. I'll post a pic of our finished one for comparison.

I think it's just shy of 7 hours at 0.15 layer height (which is why on the SUPER OCD version I'm making for me, I'm just printing the top part where most of the changes are for testing - takes it down to less than an hour and half). The need for lots of supports on the big bracket really slows printing down. FYI the wire management Ls on the big bracket don't need supports, but the clips on each side of where the nano box goes do and the giant space between the bottom and top do.

The nano box doesn't need any supports of you make it on its back.

Well isn't this nifty.

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Looks like we're making an adjustable chest lid bracket.

So the chest lids are different sizes inside?

Holes are different placement. I guess they didn't need to be exact because the lid never had to meet the chest, lol.

Prototype lexan. Pretty close, fairly adjustable. I'll send one to pinballj so he can cross-test on his lid so we can make sure it at least for on both. I think lexan will be easier for people to modify if absolutely necessary. Oh and this is really thin stuff, I'd probably triple the thickness. Obviously the finished product will be neat and tidy. This was a really rough quick cut (I had to make a few).

I'll include washers now to let the screws move around the slots in the bracket no matter what it's made out of. Probably locking washers too.
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Bonus lighting opportunity. Ordering some 1/4” lexan to test with. This stuff is 1/16 and still performs pretty well.

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Because I got this question I felt I should just comment that the install will be very easy. The only special tools I think needed so far are a short or stubby phillips screwdriver and 1/4" socket. Probably need a nut driver or sockets for under the playfield (didn't look yet). It looks like there might be a small amount of test fitting on the lid for each chest (line it up and tighten screws). There will be no wires to manually connect (just plug the adapter in to the backbox, all you have to do is take off the glass). I believe this can all be done with only taking the lid off the chest from above the playfield, at least that's how I've done it so far. If you want to do lighting, it's a great time. I'm doing RGB lighting with a heartbeat effect.

If you're concerned about install difficulty, I'll post a quick video overview of the install so you can get an idea if it would be something you couldn't do. I can't see anyone not being able to do this if they have a few basic tools and can follow directions. pinballj made it really easy.
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Doesn't that galaxy plastic in the back look awesome

Ah ha. JJP gave us 12 and 5v under the playfield right from the power supply.
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2 pin adapter even.

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Harness made, 1' wire at most to the chest. No running power to the back box.

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That's great news. I've yet to open the back of my pirates, never had any monitor sag.

Ok, mouser order placed for the wire harness. This keeps getting easier, it's all coming together. What a community effort. Acrylic order placed.

Mine is hardly closed anymore, lol.

Here are the Mouser part numbers for the power connector if anyone wants to build one. I am using the larger gauge .093 crimp connectors because I'm using larger wire for the passthrough and it was tight today with th smaller connectors. I don't think my crimp tool even supports them, damnit.

Mouser #: 571-14806990
Mfr. #: 1-480699-0
Desc.: Pin & Socket Connectors Pin & Socket Connectors CAP HOUSE 2 POS

Mouser #: 571-3505501
Mfr. #: 350550-1
Desc.: Pin & Socket Connectors Pin & Socket Connectors SOCKET 20-14 AWG

Mouser #: 571-3505471
Mfr. #: 350547-1
Desc.: Pin & Socket Connectors Pin & Socket Connectors PIN 20-14 AWG

Mouser #: 571-14806980
Mfr. #: 1-480698-0
Desc.: Pin & Socket Connectors Pin & Socket Connectors PLUG HOUSE 2 POS

Since the existing mounting holes are very hard to reach, I have a thread cut in there.
This makes assembly a lot easier.

Which holes?

With the Lexan and the LED strips you can do a lot, the Arduino Channels are still free.
Pulsing, running light, for each ball a different color etc.

Great Idea.

Is all this other stuff going to be included in the kit?

EVERYTHING will be included

I'll test out some lighting with the arduino. I just wrote some code for a WS2812B lighting panel so should be pretty easy to do the same for this. I don't think we would need addressable (although could make some cool effects) but a simple RGB lighting strip would work, which I have plenty of. I'll test out some designs and could offer it as an addon.

Thanks! Sorry about the inquiry, but this is getting a bit too high tech for me

No worries at all, I know there is a lot of tech discussion going on here but I guarantee the install is easy enough for pretty much everyone. No parts to buy, nothing to program or figure out. It will all be clearly laid out, easy to connect, etc. The biggest time will be spent aligning the lid, which is not a big deal.

harryhoudini this one comes up as 3 position
Mouser #: 571-14806980
Mfr. #: 1-480698-0
Desc.: Pin & Socket Connectors Pin & Socket Connectors PLUG HOUSE 2 POS

harryhoudini Do you plan to make a kit with mechanism for the chest including the light in the chest?
Regards.

Sounds like he's doing a version with the light and a version without and you choose.

Yeah, I mean I have all the stuff here already so if someone wants I light I can add that in. I'll figure out what the parts cost and add it to the site.

I think you have to ignore mouser drawings. For some reason theirs aren't as accurate as other sellers. The title says 2 POS and if you look at the datasheet you can see the actual part drawing. Screwy I know and I was worried I wasn't giving proper part numbers because I changed the pin wire size but I've tried to cross reference with molex documentation to confirm that this is all correct. I ordered the same parts from another seller already so I know those 2 product numbers are correct as well (molex part numbers) for the housings.

Did you post a Video of the light in action by any chance?

Ha yea, I forgot I did take video but probably forgot to post it. Again these a prototypes... I have some changes I want to make, again waiting on parts to arrive. I have a digital RGB controller with remote (I mean, why not) and am working on changing the "heartbeat" so it keeps the same RGB color (right now it fades the color as it dims). But you can get the general idea. The light in the chest lid with the lexan won't have to sit at the front so it will give more direct down lighting and I think look better. I'll post a video and pics once I do that install, should be this week and could easily add on before shipping out any orders.

I contacted 2 plastic CNC cutters to see about the Lexan cutting price. I'd rather have them cut precisely if possible. I'm testing out the slots for the screws right now to see what makes sense in terms of how much the lid might need to slide and how off the chest lid holes might be. From what I hear Lexan can't be laser cut so it has to be CNC (or maybe waterjet). Going to keep this design flexible enough for everyone to just screw in no matter how off their holes are. So you can slide the piece front to back on the lid and a little side to side. You can slide the hinge left to right and up and down. So you can see in my pic prior that I was able to take that sliding lid (without making it specific to my chest) and align it perfectly.

Again, shitty camera... I'm going to grab my DSLR from my shop with baffled lighting that we used to shoot product photo and video for another venture and take some way better shots and video. The purple hue is killing me.

Oh I should add this is without the arduino, I made this before we started this discussion. I'll wire it up to the nano and write some code to see how it looks. I imagine it should be great. The addressable RGB strips used for the starmap lighting are controlled by a nano so I have some code already done and know it works. Hummm.. would probably have to add a button to the nano so you could cycle through color options in this scenario (since we wouldn't need the RGB controller). Eh, either way it's possible.

Beating heart looks great!!!!

I shouldn't post this... but... if we could read the signals from the chest optos we could control the lights based on how many balls are in there.

Oy. That's gonna have to be later, if at all.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Feature_creep

I'll send you a light if you want.

I think the light mod looks great and I think you are doing a fantastic job Harry! Thanks!

So off in Super-OCD land, I have the connectors and wiring worked out for the one I'm making for the one here. As was previously discussed, I won't be using the USB for power to avoid stability issues. The connector opposite the servo and switch on the top of the nano box will be connected to the ATX power supply's 5v.

super-ocd-chest-bracket (resized).jpg

That is sweet looking. I posted above for the 5v power connector, we're going to solder to the board too.

We're cooking with fire now boys!

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