Walnut Creek, CA
Is the kit including the trunk lid bracket? Still yet to see that
(Topic ID: 244666)
Linked Games
Pirates of the Caribbean
Jersey Jack, 2018-
Pirates of the Caribbean (CE)
Jersey Jack, 2018
-
Pirates of the Caribbean (LE)
Jersey Jack, 2018
Topic Gallery
Quoted from adamross:Hey Harry how many orders have come in so far? Totally understand if you don’t wanna share just curious about demand.
I'd love to tell you but the stupid ass store software is broken and the one report for product sales doesn't work. Fucking cheap store. Probably like 30.
Quoted from Soulrider911:Is the kit including the trunk lid bracket? Still yet to see that
Yes.
Me too 
Bernkastel-kues
Quoted from Soulrider911:Think I’m going to fork the OP’s code and add support for toggling and led strip on and off for those of us that have an led strip in the trunk
Also anyone know where he sources the 5v power from? What connection on backbox?
I have a power supply installed, so I am independent of the JJP installation.
Since I can safely divert my 12V and 5V for all mods.
Quoted from Agima2000:I have a power supply installed, so I am independent of the JJP installation.
Since I can safely divert my 12V and 5V for all mods.
What could be using so much power?
Quoted from harryhoudini:What could be using so much power?
Just for safety.
In case of a short circuit or a defect, I am isolated from the JJP.
A power supply costs no more than 3 adapter plugs.
have enough power supplies from the last project lying around here, which must be installed.
Quoted from Agima2000:Just for safety.
In case of a short circuit or a defect, I am isolated from the JJP.
A power supply costs no more than 3 adapter plugs.
have enough power supplies from the last project lying around here, which must be installed.
Ah. I couldn't envision many power hungry mods. A few lamps and servo/Arduino can't be much.
Quoted from harryhoudini:Ah. I couldn't envision many power hungry mods. A few lamps and servo/Arduino can't be much.
The main advantage is isolating all the mods from the JJP system. No additional power draw within their design.
Yea, I mean I gather that but don't most of those basic circuits have quite low draw? The fuse circuit diagram shows pretty low loads on 12v lines. Especially using the bill acceptor plug. I can see wanting to keep things sperate, but is a JJP 12v spotlight different than my own installed 12v spotlight? Sure, you wire something wrong and blow a fuse.. Or worst case throw an inline fuse before your mods.
Quoted from Agima2000:Just for safety.
In case of a short circuit or a defect, I am isolated from the JJP.
A power supply costs no more than 3 adapter plugs.
have enough power supplies from the last project lying around here, which must be installed.
That’s beautiful! How did you do it?
Quoted from PinMonk:Ha! Even roughing it out, I spent way more time on this than I should have. This is a rough print. If you go to .15 or .10 it can look much better.
Here's the Nano enclosure. There are two channels (left and right) inside the enclosure, under the board to run the wiring down to the end of the box and out so it has a clean look. This just has the two switch leads attached for the picture.
[quoted image]
I have no idea what heat these generate, so I vented the top, just in case.
[quoted image]
Then the Nano enclosure snaps into the modified bigger bracket. Since it takes so long to print a full bracket, I only printed the base of that area to test the fit. It just clips in and out. Pretty nice.
[quoted image]
Here's the top part with cable management for the leads to the switch and the leads coming up from the servo on the side. I'm pretty sure I'll be cutting the connector off the servo and soldering the control line straight to the Nano and the power leads to the 5V adapter.[quoted image]
Harry, any chance you could print Vic’s nano enclosure for those of us with ocd?
Quoted from dts:Harry, any chance you could print Vic’s nano enclosure for those of us with ocd?
Curious on this as well
Hi everyone, so I took Soulrider911 's advice and thought I would make a 3d printed lid bracket and try it out. It worked but I messed up the alignment on the hinge, so it didn't shut correctly. I am going to update the file and share that out on thingiverse as well, for people that want to take that approach. I didn't get much testing in yet though.
First pic shows the new plate installed. Second pic shows the difference between my hacked metal proto vs the 3d printed one
20190703_075029 (resized).jpg20190703_085152 (resized).jpg
Quoted from Agima2000:I have a power supply installed, so I am independent of the JJP installation.
Since I can safely divert my 12V and 5V for all mods.
Did you tap into the power box / line filter box?
Quoted from dts:That’s beautiful! How did you do it?
B08716A7-EE10-4B34-B8A3-8DB4E8D730B3 (resized).jpegQuoted from Soulrider911:Did you tap into the power box / line filter box?
Yes
Quoted from dts:I meant the led lightshow on your spare playfields.
Is from the german forum,is a lot of work.
We are probably either supplying lid parts in PETG, Lexan or 3D printed filament. Going to determine what works the best for this and what we can produce well. Metal is still an option if any of those options aren't strong enough. Cheers for pinballj for doing that up. I hear parts from him and from
Geteos are on the way to me. I have, I believe, all of the other parts needed. Once I do the install I'll confirm the kit contents and we'll start putting them together. My wife is doing pre-production work on wiring connections and such.
For those wanting the updated "case" for the Nano we can probably do that but it would have to be later in the process since we don't even have the file yet. So if you want to wait for that PM me and I'll put your order on hold. Frankly, I don't think it's necessary at all... what you get from us will be a finished product without a PCB zip tied to the plastic. You'll never see it.
Quoted from harryhoudini:We are probably either supplying lid parts in PETG, Lexan or 3D printed filament. Going to determine what works the best for this and what we can produce well. Metal is still an option if any of those options aren't strong enough. Cheers for pinballj for doing that up. I hear parts from him and from geteos are on the way to me. I have, I believe, all of the other parts needed. Once I do the install I'll confirm the kit contents and we'll start putting them together. My wife is doing pre-production work on wiring connections and such.
For those wanting the updated "case" for the Nano we can probably do that but it would have to be later in the process since we don't even have the file yet. So if you want to wait for that PM me and I'll put your order on hold. Frankly, I don't think it's necessary at all... what you get from us will be a finished product without a PCB zip tied to the plastic. You'll never see it.
The nano box is done, I'm just fine-tuning the main bracket. Wire-management for the servo is done and great, but the channel for the switch wires is too small. Once I adjust that the main bracket will be ready to go. I also tightened up the servo cutout on the main bracket since the original was too wide. I have a super-OCD nano box with a junction box, but no idea how long that will take (and let's be honest, that's overkill, but I am ill), so I'm just going to give you the revised bracket and nano box STLs as soon as I get the switch wiring channel fixed.
Here's where it's at before adjusting the switch wire channel. Note that this is still a very low-res print so the plastic's a little rough:
bracket_v2 (resized).jpg
The servo leads would be cut and routed into the nano box, or you'd have a connector coming out of the nano box and connect the servo to that. The servo lead can probably be shortened to a custom length by opening the 4 screws on the servo and shortening the wire from that end, but I haven't tried that (yet). I will have to for my super-OCD version, though.
Quoted from PinMonk:The nano box is done, I'm just fine-tuning the main bracket. Wire-management for the servo is done and great, but the channel for the switch wires is too small. Once I adjust that the main bracket will be ready to go. I also tightened up the servo cutout on the main bracket since the original was too wide. I have a super-OCD nano box with a junction box, but no idea how long that will take (and let's be honest, that's overkill, but I am ill), so I'm just going to give you the revised bracket and nano box STLs as soon as I get the switch wiring channel fixed.
Here's where it's at before adjusting the switch wire channel. Note that this is still a very low-res print so the plastic's a little rough:
[quoted image]
The servo leads would be cut and routed into the nano box, or you'd have a connector coming out of the nano box and connect the servo to that. The servo lead can probably be shortened to a custom length by opening the 4 screws on the servo and shortening the wire from that end, but I haven't tried that (yet). I will have to for my super-OCD version, though.
Looks great!!
Sydney
Quoted from pinballj:Hi everyone, so I took soulrider911 's advice and thought I would make a 3d printed lid bracket and try it out. It worked but I messed up the alignment on the hinge, so it didn't shut correctly. I am going to update the file and share that out on thingiverse as well, for people that want to take that approach. I didn't get much testing in yet though.
First pic shows the new plate installed. Second pic shows the difference between my hacked metal proto vs the 3d printed one
[quoted image][quoted image]
I Much prefer the idea of metal bracket. Harry, is it possible just to get a metal sheet fabricator to make the plates? Happy with 3D plastics for ornamentation or holding things but not so much for moving parts. Just thinking of 20 years of wear.
Quoted from gumnut01:I Much prefer the idea of metal bracket. Harry, is it possible just to get a metal sheet fabricator to make the plates? Happy with 3D plastics for ornamentation or holding things but not so much for moving parts. Just thinking of 20 years of wear.
I actually felt like lexan would be nice, I mean if bullet proof windows can use it
Yeah, I'm talking with a fabricator but I don't have a bracket or dimensions yet so I can't get it priced. I have another metal piece I need made for another mod so it might be a good deal to get them done at the same time.
Quoted from PinMonk:The nano box is done, I'm just fine-tuning the main bracket. Wire-management for the servo is done and great, but the channel for the switch wires is too small. Once I adjust that the main bracket will be ready to go. I also tightened up the servo cutout on the main bracket since the original was too wide. I have a super-OCD nano box with a junction box, but no idea how long that will take (and let's be honest, that's overkill, but I am ill), so I'm just going to give you the revised bracket and nano box STLs as soon as I get the switch wiring channel fixed.
Here's where it's at before adjusting the switch wire channel. Note that this is still a very low-res print so the plastic's a little rough:
[quoted image]
The servo leads would be cut and routed into the nano box, or you'd have a connector coming out of the nano box and connect the servo to that. The servo lead can probably be shortened to a custom length by opening the 4 screws on the servo and shortening the wire from that end, but I haven't tried that (yet). I will have to for my super-OCD version, though.
Dude, seek help
Looks great. I'll post ours once it is complete and people can decide if they want to wait for an updated bracket with the holder. I would say that I expect our version to be just as "polished" with the existing bracket and how we'll put it all together.
Quoted from harryhoudini:I actually felt like lexan would be nice, I mean if bullet proof windows can use it
Yeah, I'm talking with a fabricator but I don't have a bracket or dimensions yet so I can't get it priced. I have another metal piece I need made for another mod so it might be a good deal to get them done at the same time.
Look you guys know what you are doing. Trust your judgement.
Quoted from PinMonk:For the record, on the servo the pinouts are:
Brown: Ground
Orange/Reddish: +
Yellowish: Signal/Control
And here's how the board wires up (power for the board comes through the mini-USB):[quoted image]
Thanks for posting, but just to clarify, the source has it as D10 (not D12), but that can easily change in software if you want to use D12
20190703_082420 (resized).jpgQuoted from pinballj:Thanks for posting, but just to clarify, the source has it as D10 (not D12), but that can easily change in software if you want to use D12
https://github.com/jfleitz/jjpotc-chest/blob/609117a48fa64482862a90c043a359e189d8d106/arduino/chest-opener.ino#L13[quoted image]
Fixed. Thanks.
Do you have a picture of your base bracket with the switch attached? I think I have this right, but want to make sure.
I added a RGB LED strip to the store if anyone wants that with their kit. I'll post a video of it soon so you can see the color changing and brightness.
Added over 4 years ago:I added a RGB LED strip to the store if anyone wants that with their kit. I'll post a video of it soon so you can see the color changing and brightness.
Quoted from PinMonk:Fixed. Thanks.
Do you have a picture of your base bracket with the switch attached? I think I have this right, but want to make sure.
Sure.. I forgot to call this out too, as I bent the micro actuator on the last bracket to get better contact (see pic). I am traveling right now, but thought instead of bending, you could pivot the switch on the screw toward the center of the bracket until the actuator points to the edge...then screw down. Hope that makes sense.
When I get back I will try that myself and post results. The original bracket has been working perfect, so I haven't messed with it.
Fyi harryhoudini
switch mountedswitch actuator bent
20190703_082420 (resized).jpgQuoted from pinballj:Sure.. I forgot to call this out too, as I bent the micro actuator on the last bracket to get better contact (see pic). I am traveling right now, but thought instead of bending, you could pivot the switch on the screw toward the center of the bracket until the actuator points to the edge...then screw down. Hope that makes sense.
When I get back I will try that myself and post results. The original bracket has been working perfect, so I haven't messed with it.
Fyi harryhoudini
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Thanks for the pic!
I'm screwing the switch from the top down with a thicker platform so it lines up with the main plate it's attached to on the bottom for maximum strength. But the direction of the screws shouldn't matter.
Good to know that bracket works as I’ve printed 14 of them for Harry so far! Hoping to ship out 27 mid next week.
Thanks pinballj box arrived today! Everything looks great. I have a 3D printer arriving tomorrow so I may just print out the lid brackets here. Otherwise it all looks great. Once the parts from
Geteos arrive I'll put together a production sample and install it, video instructions, etc.
What did you power it with? I'm going to wire in connectors for everyone with the kit, but I don't know where there is 5v power aside from the USB plugs. I can include a step down buck board if we need to and can steal power from a spotlight or topper (there's even a spare in the backbox). I mean, I guess we could wire it up to a USB on the PC but that seems a little janky.
Quoted from harryhoudini:Thanks pinballj box arrived today! Everything looks great. I have a 3D printer arriving tomorrow so I may just print out the lid brackets here. Otherwise it all looks great. Once the parts from geteos arrive I'll put together a production sample and install it, video instructions, etc.
What did you power it with? I'm going to wire in connectors for everyone with the kit, but I don't know where there is 5v power aside from the USB plugs. I can include a step down buck board if we need to and can steal power from a spotlight or topper (there's even a spare in the backbox). I mean, I guess we could wire it up to a USB on the PC but that seems a little janky.
The power is coming from the mini-USB. You can get an adapter that splits 5v off the ATX power supply to a USB connector so you're not tapped into anything in the system.
I've finished the redesigned big bracket that can take the nano-box snap-in and has the some wire management. I'm printing both now to make sure there are no unforseen issues, then I'll send you the big bracket and nano box files tomorrow that you can use for anyone that wants them.
I'm going to continue on to finish off a Super-OCD version for me that has a junction box with plugs and some other niceties for a super-clean install.
Quoted from PinMonk:The power is coming from the mini-USB. You can get an adapter that splits 5v off the ATX power supply to a USB connector so you're not tapped into anything in the system.
I've finished the redesigned big bracket that can take the nano-box snap-in and has the some wire management. I'm printing both now to make sure there are no unforseen issues, then I'll send you the big bracket and nano box files tomorrow that you can use for anyone that wants them.
I'm going to continue on to finish off a Super-OCD version for me that has a junction box with plugs and some other niceties for a super-clean install.
Thanks, I figured the ATX had 5v. I was going to solder in the connectors for power to the board so there isn't the need for a USB plug. Sort of lame to run wire all the way down the harness and up in to the backbox for 5v but that seems ideal over a buck board. Gonna have to order a grip ton of wire.
Quoted from harryhoudini:Thanks, I figured the ATX had 5v. I was going to solder in the connectors for power to the board so there isn't the need for a USB plug. Sort of lame to run wire all the way down the harness and up in to the backbox for 5v but that seems ideal over a buck board. Gonna have to order a grip ton of wire.
Yeah, I was initially confused about the 5v on the board. Assumed there would be a solder pad, but they had to make design consessions due to the tiny size compared to an Uno board which has an actual DC power plug and USB by combining the power and data into one Mini-USB.
Quoted from PinMonk:Yeah, I was initially confused about the 5v on the board. Assumed there would be a solder pad, but they had to make design consessions due to the tiny size compared to an Uno board which has an actual DC power plug and USB by combining the power and data into one Mini-USB.
And speaking of which, MINI USB!?!? I had to freaking route around in my cable boxes for like 20 minutes only to finally rob one off an old USB hub I was sort of using and forgot about. Why the heck did they use that?! At least use micro. I guess I hadn't investigated the nano enough. I got an UNO development board to mess with and work on another mod and I was using the 5v input on the board.
Quoted from harryhoudini:And speaking of which, MINI USB!?!? I had to freaking route around in my cable boxes for like 20 minutes only to finally rob one off an old USB hub I was sort of using and forgot about. Why the heck did they use that?! At least use micro. I guess I hadn't investigated the nano enough. I got an UNO development board to mess with and work on another mod and I was using the 5v input on the board.
Micro USB is crappier real-world. It SUPPOSEDLY is more reliable on paper, but connectivity issues happen way faster than mini USB. The main reason everyone went to micro is it's thinner and, well, mobile needs that. Plus, the nano this board is copying came out more than 10 years ago. The shift to micro USB hadn't really happened in earnest in mobile by then - the iPhone had just come out!
Crazy. I guess it makes sense, it's definitely a more robust connector as well.
I'm really considering just plugging it into the USB port now. I mean, the 5v is going to the mobo from the power supply anyhow and it's like almost next to nothing in power consumption. Versus making custom mini usb to 5v ATX connectors or whatever would be easiest. Is there any concern with a direct USB connection for power?
Does anyone here have a problem with that? I'll investigate the other method but it almost seems overkill for such a lightweight mod.
Quoted from harryhoudini:Crazy. I guess it makes sense, it's definitely a more robust connector as well.
I'm really considering just plugging it into the USB port now. I mean, the 5v is going to the mobo from the power supply anyhow and it's like almost next to nothing in power consumption. Versus making custom mini usb to 5v ATX connectors or whatever would be easiest. Is there any concern with a direct USB connection for power?
Does anyone here have a problem with that? I'll investigate the other method but it almost seems overkill for such a lightweight mod.
Yes, I had problems with it, so I supplied the nano and the servo directly with 5 volts.
When the voltage is cut off via the Nano (USB), then the Nano did not always start reliably.
Quoted from Agima2000:Yes, I had problems with it, so I supplied the nano and the servo directly with 5 volts.
When the voltage is cut off via the Nano (USB), then the Nano did not always start reliably.
Wait, so are you saying connecting the computer USB to the Nano mini-usb for 5v power wasn't reliable so you just sent the Nano 5v directly from the ATX power supply to the mini-USB, OR are you saying you didn't use the mini-USB to supply the 5v at all?
IF you didn't use the mini-USB, where did you put the 5v power input in on the Nano?
Quoted from PinMonk:Wait, so are you saying connecting the computer USB to the Nano mini-usb for 5v power wasn't reliable so you just sent the Nano 5v directly from the ATX power supply to the mini-USB, OR are you saying you didn't use the mini-USB to supply the 5v at all?
IF you didn't use the mini-USB, where did you put the 5v power input in on the Nano?
You should be able to power the nano from the 5volt pin (same as where the servo is wired) and not use the mini USB connector at all. I got a Y atx adapter that I am going to use to do this myself.
So basically 5volt pin on the nano goes to Servo power and ATX red wire from the power supply. This bypasses the voltage regulator on the nano (which is a good thing imo, since current draw of a servo could be pushing it).
Quoted from PinMonk:Wait, so are you saying connecting the computer USB to the Nano mini-usb for 5v power wasn't reliable so you just sent the Nano 5v directly from the ATX power supply to the mini-USB, OR are you saying you didn't use the mini-USB to supply the 5v at all?
IF you didn't use the mini-USB, where did you put the 5v power input in on the Nano?
I do not use USB at all.
Had the problem right at the beginning with pinpallj demanded.
The recommendation in the Arduino forum is to provide the servo Seperat with 5 volts
Quoted from pinballj:You should be able to power the nano from the 5volt pin (same as where the servo is wired) and not use the mini USB connector at all. I got a Y atx adapter that I am going to use to do this myself.
So basically 5volt pin on the nano goes to Servo power and ATX red wire from the power supply. This bypasses the voltage regulator on the nano (which is a good thing imo, since current draw of a servo could be pushing it).
So basically put a Y on the 5v output from the ATX power supply and send one lead to the servo and the other to the 5v header on the nano, then?
Quoted from PinMonk:So basically put a Y on the 5v output from the ATX power supply and send one lead to the servo and the other to the 5v header on the nano, then?
Exactly
All this complexity is why I prefer the linkage-based solution steigerpijp was exploring.
We already have energy on the fork to raise/lower the lid.
I’ll get downvotes for this but I really hope that solution still comes to pass.
Promoted items from Pinside Marketplace and Pinside Shops!
Dubai
Vernon, BC
Reply
Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.
Hey there! Welcome to Pinside!
Donate to PinsideGreat to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!
