Quoted from KornFreak28:Do you have a picture of this?
Picture of the optos that are easy to pop out accidentally when doing the trunk mod?
Quoted from KornFreak28:Do you have a picture of this?
Picture of the optos that are easy to pop out accidentally when doing the trunk mod?
Quoted from PinMonk:Picture of the optos that are easy to pop out accidentally when doing the trunk mod?
I haven’t installed the chest mod yet nor have I messed with it, so I really don’t know where these optos are at.
Quoted from KornFreak28:I haven’t installed the chest mod yet nor have I messed with it, so I really don’t know where these optos are at.
I'll take a pic of the ones I'm talking about so you can be careful when you do the mod.
Quoted from PinMonk:I'll take a pic of the ones I'm talking about so you can be careful when you do the mod.
Awesome! Thank you!
Quoted from PinMonk:I'll take a pic of the ones I'm talking about so you can be careful when you do the mod.
Perfect timing. I'll be working on mine Sunday afternoon. : )
I hope mine just can loose from shooting the chest do much. I was REALLY careful when adding the chest mod.
Quoted from Balint:Just got mine, installed it right away. My problem is that it does not move the lid. It seems like the flexible rod is way too long as it has a strange angle at the top. Under playfield I adjusted everything according to the video. Can you help me?[quoted image]
Loosen the barrel nut on the other end by the servo and slide the excess through until you get a straight rod with a little slack, then cut off the excess about 3/4" past the barrel.
Quoted from PinMonk:I'll take a pic of the ones I'm talking about so you can be careful when you do the mod.
Could You please post a pic when you get a chance? Thanks!
Quoted from KornFreak28:Could You please post a pic when you get a chance? Thanks!
Hmm, I thought I did already....
Here's the location of the three optos on the back side that you need to be careful of:
jjPotC_chest_potos (resized).jpgQuoted from PinMonk:Loosen the barrel nut on the other end by the servo and slide the excess through until you get a straight rod with a little slack, then cut off the excess about 3/4" past the barrel.
Thanks
Here's a video on some common questions and cutting the rod:
Quoted from harryhoudini:Hey, chest mod got nominated for a TWIP award! While it's listed as Pinball Mod Co the credit all goes to pinballj who did all the hard work. I've finally been able to play my game (it's mostly together!) and love watching the chest open and close.
Yep - I voted for it. : )
Quoted from harryhoudini:Hey, chest mod got nominated for a TWIP award! While it's listed as Pinball Mod Co the credit all goes to pinballj who did all the hard work. I've finally been able to play my game (it's mostly together!) and love watching the chest open and close.
I voted for it too lol. Honestly though, you and your fam made this mod easily available to all (vs having to DIY everything). The early version had quite a few on this thread helping make tweaks and suggestions to the original coding and bracket too.
TWIPY or not, I am just happy my chest opens and closes!
Quoted from pinballj:I voted for it too lol. Honestly though, you and your fam made this mod easily available to all (vs having to DIY everything). The early version had quite a few on this thread helping make tweaks and suggestions to the original coding and bracket too.
TWIPY or not, I am just happy my chest opens and closes!
Group effort for sure. Definitely a big thanks to all the people who posted advice and help on this thread and helped make it a better mod. PinMonk especially.
Hi
I have recently just purchased this mod and iam getting to lights and controll of the speed of the servo, I have plugged the little switch device in but doesn't seem to do anything.
Also I am having exactly the same problem as Balint. Is it ok to cut the rod.?
Thanks Simon
Quoted from MurphyPeoples:Yep - I voted for it. : )
Me too!
I have the star field mod and the chest opening mod, but I have to admit I've been really intimidated with the install for the chest opening mod so I haven't tried it yet. Is it best to do the chest opening mod first, then starfield? I also want to make sure I have enough continuous time set aside to get it done in one sitting. What is a reasonable amount of time to expect it will take to install?
Quoted from Wanderers:Hi
I have recently just purchased this mod and iam getting to lights and controll of the speed of the servo, I have plugged the little switch device in but doesn't seem to do anything.
Also I am having exactly the same problem as Balint. Is it ok to cut the rod.?
Thanks Simon
Post 1161 above has the cutting information, yes definitely ok to cut the rod, details are in the video: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jjpotc-treasure-chest-open-and-close/page/24#post-5385656
For the buttons not working make sure the keypad is facing the correct direction (buttons pointing inward towards the controller) and that it is plugged in all the way. Probably just not making solid contact with the header socket.
Quoted from LesManley:Me too!
I have the star field mod and the chest opening mod, but I have to admit I've been really intimidated with the install for the chest opening mod so I haven't tried it yet. Is it best to do the chest opening mod first, then starfield? I also want to make sure I have enough continuous time set aside to get it done in one sitting. What is a reasonable amount of time to expect it will take to install?
The backboard and lights is a 10-15 minute install, if that, depending on the version of game you have. You can do that at any time, almost nothing need to be removed.
The chest mod definitely takes some time to do, mostly the adjustment of it all. Any questions feel free to post here or PM (or email) and I'll be happy to help. Lots of videos on our site with install notes. Total time, first time installing, is probably 3-4 hours. Even if you don't finish in one sitting the game is still playable through pretty much every step so you can take your time. You might just not have a lid on your chest but nothing really prevents game use.
Quoted from harryhoudini:Post 1161 above has the cutting information, yes definitely ok to cut the rod, details are in the video: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jjpotc-treasure-chest-open-and-close/page/24#post-5385656
For the buttons not working make sure the keypad is facing the correct direction (buttons pointing inward towards the controller) and that it is plugged in all the way. Probably just not making solid contact with the header socket.The backboard and lights is a 10-15 minute install, if that, depending on the version of game you have. You can do that at any time, almost nothing need to be removed.
The chest mod definitely takes some time to do, mostly the adjustment of it all. Any questions feel free to post here or PM (or email) and I'll be happy to help. Lots of videos on our site with install notes. Total time, first time installing, is probably 3-4 hours. Even if you don't finish in one sitting the game is still playable through pretty much every step so you can take your time. You might just not have a lid on your chest but nothing really prevents game use.
Thanks for your help. I’m getting somewhere, but still frustrated. When I adjust it according to the video (Taped closed, fork down etc) the chest opens and closes now, but after the power up cycle it remains at an open position.
Ok thanks harryhoudini for your help and fantastic advice on this. After a frustrating
evening on trying to install the chest, it’s all done and working absolutely bang on ( what an excellent job you guys have done in creating this mod, it really gives the game another massive bonus)
The key with the installation process is the rod loads of adjusting required, I also didn’t realise you could cut it.
One very happy English customer.
I installed mine tonight - a bit fiddly but I managed to get it done. I didn't bother tying the wires back under the playfield since the new rod has a sheath.
I will say that all my wires were just *barely* long enough. The 12V, the lighting cable, and the chest rod itself have almost zero extra play. If the lighting cable were even 1/4" shorter I couldn't have made it work. As it was I had to do a lot of adjusting just to get everything connected.
I've also noticed that sometimes the chest takes quite a while to close after I lock a ball. I'm guessing the fork doesn't always immediately retract and signal the arduino?
Either way, it's working now and I love it! I still need to adjust the light, which is hard with the playfield up. I can't see what the lights are doing while I'm pressing buttons.
Quoted from Balint:Thanks for your help. I’m getting somewhere, but still frustrated. When I adjust it according to the video (Taped closed, fork down etc) the chest opens and closes now, but after the power up cycle it remains at an open position.
I think you probably have the servo arm in the opposite position. Likely when you lift the playfield the arm on your servo is pointing "down" towards the ground where it should be pointing up towards the ceiling. This would be indicated by the chest working in reverse, which it sounds like yours might be.
Quoted from bbulkley:I will say that all my wires were just *barely* long enough. The 12V, the lighting cable, and the chest rod itself have almost zero extra play. If the lighting cable were even 1/4" shorter I couldn't have made it work. As it was I had to do a lot of adjusting just to get everything connected.
I've also noticed that sometimes the chest takes quite a while to close after I lock a ball. I'm guessing the fork doesn't always immediately retract and signal the arduino?
Either way, it's working now and I love it! I still need to adjust the light, which is hard with the playfield up. I can't see what the lights are doing while I'm pressing buttons.
Thanks for that feedback on the cables, I got the same from a few other people so we are extending everything a bit more now. If you want an extension for the lighting cable I can send one to you, same for the power. Just PM me.
The code has a debounce in it so once the forks change position it takes a second for the chest to react. On mine I hear the forks retract and then within a beat the chest closes. If yours isn't doing that we can definitely investigate some reasons.
The way I adjusted the lights was to have the playfield up, stand at the right side of the game with your left hand on the chest mod buttons. You should be able to see the chest lighting from there by peeking between the top of the playfield and the backbox. Alternatively, I've made extensions for a few people who wanted to mount the keypad near the coin door. I figured for most people it was set it once and mostly never touch it again.
Quoted from Wanderers:Ok thanks harryhoudini for your help and fantastic advice on this. After a frustrating
evening on trying to install the chest, it’s all done and working absolutely bang on ( what an excellent job you guys have done in creating this mod, it really gives the game another massive bonus)
The key with the installation process is the rod loads of adjusting required, I also didn’t realise you could cut it.
One very happy English customer.
pinballj gets the credit for the concept, ingenious really.
I was just playing my POTC and having fun watching the chest move. I love it.
Hello,
Do you guys have this gap on the rear part of the lid?
I’ve done numerous adjustments already and nothing seems to work. The front part is flush but not the back. Was thinking of sanding/dremeling the area where the hinge is at to lower the lid a little. Not sure if it will weaken the whole assembly though.
EA04AAEC-7995-44EB-B5EB-41B03CB5B531 (resized).jpeg8EFB5FBC-B9F8-4FE6-9C28-9EE9578DEAB0 (resized).jpeg4341E3DF-AAA3-464D-B89F-E2D00A8D586D (resized).jpeg9BB8EA90-0A1C-4106-9876-D33282CE32C5 (resized).jpeg
I can't tell what is going on after looking at all your pics and our back and forth but that gap is crazy big. I don't think the lower part of your chest is in any different place than mine so it must be the lid but everything looks fine. Anyone else see anything?
Quoted from luckymoey:The back of my lid is about the same as your last post but the front sits more even.
Could you post a pic please?
Quoted from KornFreak28:I sanded the black 3D printed lid a little bit and I think it went down a tad. Do you agree?
If the gap is normal, I guess I should go on to the next stage....
[quoted image]
I have similar space in the back, but put some foam in the front to have a better/cleaner closure of the lid.
472C8E8D-284A-4965-9154-129F56854BC2 (resized).jpegFB039DEF-8313-418E-9DBC-265886EAA029 (resized).jpegQuoted from Zora:I have similar space in the back, but put some foam in the front to have a better/cleaner closure of the lid.[quoted image][quoted image]
Thanks! Nice looking skull man!
The chest works but for some reason it doesn’t open all the way. This is as high as it goes. This is my first crack at it so I’m sure there is some sort of a fix for this....
F5230E99-69A2-45B8-8B32-D3862D3CC8EF (resized).jpegmine opens way farther than that. You just to have to keep tinkering with it till you find that perfect spot.
Quoted from KornFreak28:Thanks! Nice looking skull man!
The chest works but for some reason it doesn’t open all the way. This is as high as it goes. This is my first crack at it so I’m sure there is some sort of a fix for this....[quoted image]
Did you remember that you have to slightly bend the top of the rod where it touches the chest? Manually manipulate the rod and chest to the open position, and then check the position of the rod where is touches the chest. You want the nut to be flush against the chest while in the open position.
Quoted from MurphyPeoples:Did you remember that you have to slightly bend the top of the rod where it touches the chest? Manually manipulate the rod and chest to the open position, and then check the position of the rod where is touches the chest. You want the nut to be flush against the chest while in the open position.
That's the old rod, with the new flex one you have to trim it if it is too long, which I think might be the case here.
Quoted from harryhoudini:That's the old rod, with the new flex one you have to trim it if it is too long, which I think might be the case here.
Okay - how can I order this new "flex rod"??? : )
Quoted from harryhoudini:That's the old rod, with the new flex one you have to trim it if it is too long, which I think might be the case here.
It’s trimmed and the clevis gives me the flexibility to thread it up or down if I need more or less length
Quoted from MurphyPeoples:Okay - how can I order this new "flex rod"??? : )
The new flex rod threads into the swing arm thingy, no need For any nut. But it’s more precise. Not sure If bending the rod would help in my case
Does the chest have to be open Or closed when the rod is installed and attached to the servo arm? Does it matter?
Quoted from KornFreak28:Is there a way to test it without having to start a new game?
The chest mod responds to the fork position, so device test fork ought to work.
Quoted from zaphX:The chest mod responds to the fork position, so device test fork ought to work.
Thanks!
Could you guys help me out before the game starts? Lol
Who here has the new flex rd that threads into a swing arm?
So after many many adjustments, I think I got it for the most part. I cut the length of the flex rod and made other adjustments and it’s looking pretty good.
The only thing that sorta bothers me is the fact that after the chest is fully closed I can still hear the servo moving for an extra second or so.
Is this how it’s supposed to be? Is the servo being overworked because of this? Will it fail is left the way it is? Should I cut the length of the flex rod even more?
Going up it’s pretty much perfect....
86056238-0B3C-4701-BC7A-774C204C210B (resized).jpegQuoted from KornFreak28:Does the game start with the chest open or closed?
With the power off - the chest is closed. When you cut the power on, you should see the chest open and shut while the game is booting. The chest will only open when you have a chance to lock a ball. Hope this helps!
Murphy
You can test the chest manually by moving the forks manually. When the playfield is up you can just slide the white bushings up (on the fork mechanism, the thing that hits the switch on the chest mod bracket). To test further you can use your finger to depress the switch and hold it for a second, that mimics the forks going down. Release the switch, forks have gone up.
Doing that kind of test will let you watch the servo and figure out why the servo is continuing to move. It's likely one of two things. The rod is too long or binding somewhere OR the knuckle arm on the servo isn't aligned properly. This relates to your question about the chest being open or closed when installing. When the game is typically turned off and when it is turned back on the chest is going to be closed, forks down. To raise the lid the servo pulls on the rod (rotating the servo arm clockwise). To close, it rotates back counter clockwise and gravity pulls the lid down. If the playfield is raised the lid will not go down but the servo can still move. Doing this test will let you see what is happening.
When you install the clevis to the servo with the chest closed (default state) the servo is going to be rotated as far counter clockwise as it would ever go. At this point the servo knuckle (the black thing with 4 or 2 arms on it that the clevis attaches to) should be at least at about the the 11:30 position (in other words almost pointing up at your ceiling), even closer to the 11 o'clock position.
So I would detach the knuckle arm from the servo (unscrew the black screw in center, pull the knuckle off). Start this process by unplugging the chest mod from power (you can do this with the game on), removing the knuckle and then plugging the chest mod in. This will reset the servo to its default "chest closed" state (as long as the switch is depressed, meaning the forks are down).
You can now mimic the rod movement by hand. Hold the red outer sleeve with one hand positioned approximately where the rod would attach to the servo. Use the other hand to push and pull the clevis and yellow shaft of the rod to see how the lid moves. If there is any significant binding that should be solved first. It will be a bit sloppy and weird due to gravity and angle but you should get a sense if the little servo motor can move it ok.
Then attach the knuckle to the servo around the 11 o'clock position. You can then raise the forks manually and see how the servo is able to move the rod. If there is any binding unplug the mod to prevent any damage to the servo. Adjust and try again. The question remaining is the length of the rod. That can easily be determined when you put the rod back on the servo. When the servo is in the default position (chest closed) the clevis should just get to the knuckle arm. You can do minor adjustments with the screw ends on either end, major trimming with scissors. Take off a little at a time. Red sleeve should be 1/2" shorter (or so) than the yellow rod.
Quoted from MurphyPeoples:Okay - how can I order this new "flex rod"??? : )
The upgrade has the flex rod with threaded ends, clevis on one end and new lid with ball joint (for the other end of the rod). If you have lighting you an remove it from the old lid and move it to the new one. The hinge and hardware all move over to the new one.
Generally the rod should not have to be cut, some were a bit long from us and needed trimming.
https://pinballmods.co/pinball-mods/actuated-chest-lid-rod-upgrade-potc
installed yesterday, absolutely incredible mod. :applause:a must for every pirate. thanks for the great work, looks like made in germany
Hey everyone I just got my p o t c c e a few days ago and I had the chest mod installed by ASOA before they shipped the pin to me. It is open and doesn't do anything... I looked for power connections and anything that might be blocking the chest and preventing it from closing. I thought maybe something may have been installed before shipping to prevent it from breaking during transit but I couldn't find anything. If anyone has any ideas I would totally appreciate it thank you so much Please see the images.
IMG_20200202_170138 (resized).jpgIMG_20200202_170143 (resized).jpgIMG_20200202_170147 (resized).jpgIMG_20200202_170152 (resized).jpgIMG_20200202_170159 (resized).jpgIMG_20200202_170205 (resized).jpgQuoted from benbethel:Hey everyone I just got my p o t c c e a few days ago and I had the chest mod installed by ASOA before they shipped the pin to me. It is open and doesn't do anything... I looked for power connections and anything that might be blocking the chest and preventing it from closing. I thought maybe something may have been installed before shipping to prevent it from breaking during transit but I couldn't find anything. If anyone has any ideas I would totally appreciate it thank you so much Please see the images.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
EDIT: You don't have a chest mod installed. The chest bracket is stock and no rod that opens and closes the back is visible.
ORIGINAL (wrong) idea:
Your problem is probably on the underside of the playfield. Manually trigger the switch with your finger and see if the servo moves. It likely will.
This video is bookmarked at the part you need to check:
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