(Topic ID: 244666)

JJPOTC Treasure Chest Open/Close mod, now working!


By pinballj

1 year ago



Topic Stats

  • 1,264 posts
  • 116 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 17 days ago by Energyspike
  • Topic is favorited by 90 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

There have been 205 images uploaded to this topic. (View topic image gallery).

20200623_175636 (resized).jpg
20200620_172247 (resized).jpg
IMG_20200511_154933 (resized).jpg
IMG_20200511_153939 (resized).jpg
IMG_20200509_154540 (resized).jpg
IMG_20200509_154404 (resized).jpg
IMG_20200509_154357 (resized).jpg
20200413_150522 (resized).jpg
20200413_145835 (resized).jpg
B092049F-16FA-4E24-A5CF-37048592C7F0 (resized).jpeg
01AB67E9-D9EA-42F8-878D-0C088846EB22 (resized).jpeg
A0D1E5D6-982D-4732-929B-2184CA398E74 (resized).jpeg
056F3868-3C6D-40A5-B90E-96D18A417CAA (resized).jpeg
29030A59-4FD5-4BC0-BA4C-BE8552136D0E (resized).jpeg
2AF3BB43-5D1B-45D4-9464-AF92E34F687D (resized).jpeg
IMG_20200202_170138 (resized).jpg

Topic index (key posts)

4 key posts have been marked in this topic (Show topic index)

There are 1264 posts in this topic. You are on page 23 of 26.
#1101 8 months ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Check fuses in back box is probably a good idea. Screen powers on?

All sorted - the little mini usb plug had slipped out of the lower left board that I had to remove to screw in the bracket to the fork mech.

Just another question - the little brass thing that secures the rod to the servo doesn’t rotate very well. It’s really hard to rotate (just the brass bit I’m talking about). I’m assuming this should spin fairly easily?

A2EC4704-98FE-475F-8BA5-F3C50A941C98 (resized).jpeg
#1102 8 months ago
Quoted from cooked71:

All sorted - the little mini usb plug had slipped out of the lower left board that I had to remove to screw in the bracket to the fork mech.
Just another question - the little brass thing that secures the rod to the servo doesn’t rotate very well. It’s really hard to rotate (just the brass bit I’m talking about). I’m assuming this should spin fairly easily?[quoted image]

Yes that needs to rotate nicely with no hang up. Unloosen that back nut a bit. You'll be fine. : )

#1103 8 months ago
Quoted from MurphyPeoples:

Yes that needs to rotate nicely with no hang up. Unloosen that back nut a bit. You'll be fine. : )

Yup. It also only rotates a minimal amount (if you watch it when the mech is working you'll see that the amount of rotation of the brass coupler is equal to how much the knuckle rotates with the rod) and the servo is pretty powerful in that regard. The holes which those brass couplers go into are pretty tight.

#1104 8 months ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Yup. It also only rotates a minimal amount (if you watch it when the mech is working you'll see that the amount of rotation of the brass coupler is equal to how much the knuckle rotates with the rod) and the servo is pretty powerful in that regard. The holes which those brass couplers go into are pretty tight.

I’ve already loosened off the tension disc and that didn’t help. Must be the hole is too small - the Servo struggles to move it and it’s actually quite hard moving it even with my fingers. Can you re- use the tension disc if I take it off to enlarge the hole?

#1105 8 months ago
Quoted from cooked71:

I’ve already loosened off the tension disc and that didn’t help. Must be the hole is too small - the Servo struggles to move it and it’s actually quite hard moving it even with my fingers. Can you re- use the tension disc if I take it off to enlarge the hole?

Yeah, I drilled mine out a smidge (but I used the clevis instead on the servo end that it's designed for). Works much better.

#1106 8 months ago
Quoted from cooked71:

I’ve already loosened off the tension disc and that didn’t help. Must be the hole is too small - the Servo struggles to move it and it’s actually quite hard moving it even with my fingers. Can you re- use the tension disc if I take it off to enlarge the hole?

Yes. Last video on this page:

https://pinballmods.co/actuated-chest-mod-installation-for-jjp-potc

There should have been a nylon backing nut in your envelope as a backup. If you can't remove the locking washer without damaging it then you can use the nylon. But even if you damage it you can usually bend it back in to shape.

The alternate method is an option as well (in that video above) which lets you use the clevis like vireland suggested. Also the new flexible rod option uses the clevis there.

#1107 8 months ago
Quoted from cooked71:

I’ve already loosened off the tension disc and that didn’t help. Must be the hole is too small - the Servo struggles to move it and it’s actually quite hard moving it even with my fingers. Can you re- use the tension disc if I take it off to enlarge the hole?

This is what it looks like using the clevis those rods come with instead of the other connector. I prefer this connection for reliability. The two flaps are spring-loaded and have a little nub that grabs onto the hole on the servo wheel.
Clevis_PotC (resized).jpg

#1108 8 months ago

Sorry for the delay, here's the video on the flex rod.

#1109 8 months ago

pinballj

Can we get a few more key posts added to this thread ie. nano wiring. Or even directly reference wiring it in the git repo docs?

Wiring
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jjpotc-treasure-chest-open-and-close/page/7#post-5077394

Power connectors
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jjpotc-treasure-chest-open-and-close/page/8#post-5082279

Will saving having to go thru all posts to find the required

#1110 8 months ago

Here's the start of the upgraded lid. It has an angled slot for the LED strip and a slot to put in some diffusion material to give a more even light. The angle points the LEDs back towards the chest and there is a "splash shield" (hah) at the front which hopefully prevents light spillage out the front. It's probably my 5th iteration and then I am going to change the hole/tab at the back to accept a swivel ball link. This will prevent the binding of the metal rod or allow the flex rod to use the swivel joint. New shipments will include the upgraded lid bracket, flex rod with a clevis on one end and the swivel ball on the other if this all works out.

If you want to upgrade your lid and rod I can make a little upgrade kit. If you have lighting it would transfer right over to the new one.

pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).png
#1111 8 months ago

A quick video with some light taped on

Working on integrating the ball end joint to the lid.

pasted_image (resized).png
#1112 8 months ago

I say goodbye here,
my POTC are sold,
and although I never wanted a JJP again,
the Wonka is ready to unpack.
Now the modding madness continues there.
Was nice here, great people in this thread

13ec8f38-07f0-4aa8-8a9c-332412a93008 (resized).JPG
#1113 8 months ago

Here's the lid. It has a reinforced mounting sleeve for the upper ball joint end which can move very freely. This has all been moved to the left side of the machine more to give clearance. The bracket has been modified to clear any of the obstructions on the front right of the chest which may keep it from fully closing. The trough for the lighting is tilted at 20 degrees with a semi-opaque diffuser on it. There is a light pollution shield in front of the LED strip which directs the light back and down in to the chest. This, combined with the angle, helps spread the light back in to the chest more evenly. It's is printed in coffee brown PLA+ which should be very strong with 100% fill. It's a bit light colored out of the printer but I think the same brown we airbrush the barrel base color coat with would match perfectly. Then a triple thick clear acrylic on top would protect it. I'll see if there is a better matching filament. I need to install it again and see if the sight lines all work and if the color is that noticeable. The flex rod will come with the clevis at the lower end and the ball joint on the upper end. Both have threaded rod connections so they can be adjusted around 3/4" total travel which should be enough for everyone to dial in their chest.

Upgrading would consist of removing the old lid and rod and installing the new ones. If you have the lighting we could either install new lighting on the new lid for you or you can relocate your existing. It will remove from the clear lid very easily and then it would get a few dabs of epoxy or hot glue to set it in to the new lid. I suppose you could just put some tape on the back too if you wanted to be able to really easily remove it.

I think that's about it. I'll post pics and vids when mine is dialed in so you can see it in action and with the lighting at the right viewing angle.

I'll post the files if anyone wants to print their own and the pieces used. I also modded up the bracket a bit to give it a bit more strength in some areas which had proven weak on some failed prints. Rounded some edges, cleaned it up. Might add a few wire holders like others did.

I also made a prototype keypad extension if you want the keypad mounted near your coin door. I was looking for a remote solution but nothing is going to be plug and play in this current setup. Sent the proto out today to a pinsider to test, if it's what he was looking for then I'll make then for anyone who wants them.

pasted_image (resized).png

#1114 8 months ago

Tightened up the slot a bit, few small tweaks and I think it's ready. Here are a few of the reasons for it:

1. We ran out of Lexan lids and I didn't want to place an order considering how few people there are probably left who have a POTC and want to do this mod. We did a pretty significant amount of the total game sales.

2. I wanted to use that ball end arm since we talked about it here a few weeks or months ago but didn't like how it would work with the lexan (to grind them down to make it work made very small tongues which could easily break I thought). It has completely free movement in the lid bracket and there is no binding of the rod in the bracket hole, etc.

3. The back right of the lid was hitting the metal chest bracket on some games, so I modified to fit that area.

4. With the solid printed lids the lights had to show through somehow so I made a lighting trough with diffuser and baffles to keep the light pointed at the chest and diffuse it. I don't know if anyone thinks they need brighter lights, but I have some LEDs now that about more than double the number of LED chips that can fit in there. I'm not going to do it, but if someone wants it I'll do it.

5. Oh and I moved the mounting tab a bit to the left, because it could. Makes the rod just a bit straighter.

You can upgrade your existing, if you think you need it or have some issue (like the right side not lining up or problems with the rod hanging up). If you have lights you can transplant them as they pull off the old lid pretty easily if you're careful and don't do it like a ripcord.

*Not a hand model
**Blue tape is holding the lights in, I got sick of having to re-melt hot glue to move them around from lid to lid.
***Oh yeah, the bottom will be smooth, I just did a quick, low quality print.

pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).png

#1115 8 months ago

Here's the link to purchase. I included the voltage booster option in the listing if you wanted/needed it.

https://pinballmods.co/pinball-mods/actuated-chest-lid-rod-upgrade-potc

#1116 8 months ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

1. We ran out of Lexan lids and I didn't want to place an order considering how few people there are probably left who have a POTC and want to do this mod. We did a pretty significant amount of the total game sales.

My POTC arrives in a week or so. I will be buying this mod. Is it still available with all the new upgrades and changes?

#1117 8 months ago

All of the updates are going on any mod bought within the last few weeks. If you don't have it in your hands by now, it will be the updated version.

I am also going to offer another version of the code with a reversed orientation. This is the way it was originally, which makes it so the rod doesn't have to bend as far. It got switched with v1 and by the time it was noticed many people already installed it that way. The only change people would have to make to use it is to reverse their servo knuckles (propeller looking things) by removing the one screw. It's not a necessity but I'll make it so others can update and it will be installed on the new versions going out.

#1118 8 months ago

Preeeety much done. Printing out some high quality ones now and will paint and clear them and post a pic.

#1119 8 months ago

Just wanted to mention what great customer service Harry provides; Yesterday I started the open/close chest mod install and due to a minor pre-assembly issue the main bracket broke. I wasn't overly concerned because I had actually purchased a second mod as a backup. When I compared the two brackets I noticed the difference and what caused the part to break (micro switch screws installed on the wrong side). Anyway, I figured no big deal, I'll just install the second bracket and contact Harry later. But my happiness quickly turned to cursing "You've to got by F'ING KIDDING ME!" when I dropped the second bracket and it also broke (totally my fault).

Long story short, I pm'd Harry with my situation and within a couple hours he responded that he would send out two new brackets, no questions asked. Now that's great customer service!

I should also add that I don't think either of these breaks were due to poor manufacturing, just bad luck.
20191027_104028 (resized).jpg20191027_104215 (resized).jpg

#1120 8 months ago
Quoted from arzoo:

Just wanted to mention what great customer service Harry provides; Yesterday I started the open/close chest mod install and due to a minor pre-assembly issue the main bracket broke. I wasn't overly concerned because I had actually purchased a second mod as a backup. When I compared the two brackets I noticed the difference and what caused the part to break (micro switch screws installed on the wrong side). Anyway, I figured no big deal, I'll just install the second bracket and contact Harry later. But my happiness quickly turned to cursing "You've to got by F'ING KIDDING ME!" when I dropped the second bracket and it also broke (totally my fault).
Long story short, I pm'd Harry with my situation and within a couple hours he responded that he would send out two new brackets, no questions asked. Now that's great customer service!
I should also add that I don't think either of these breaks were due to poor manufacturing, just bad luck.
[quoted image][quoted image]

NICE. Too bad about the break. These things are still made with tiny strings of plastic that get melted together - it's going to break eventually if you're putting pressure on one of those seams between layers. One good thing about the chest bracket itself is that all the pressure is displaced laterally on the bracket, and it will be much less likely to have an breakage issue.

#1121 8 months ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Here's the lid. It has a reinforced mounting sleeve for the upper ball joint end which can move very freely. This has all been moved to the left side of the machine more to give clearance. The bracket has been modified to clear any of the obstructions on the front right of the chest which may keep it from fully closing. The trough for the lighting is tilted at 20 degrees with a semi-opaque diffuser on it. There is a light pollution shield in front of the LED strip which directs the light back and down in to the chest. This, combined with the angle, helps spread the light back in to the chest more evenly. It's is printed in coffee brown PLA+ which should be very strong with 100% fill. It's a bit light colored out of the printer but I think the same brown we airbrush the barrel base color coat with would match perfectly. Then a triple thick clear acrylic on top would protect it. I'll see if there is a better matching filament. I need to install it again and see if the sight lines all work and if the color is that noticeable. The flex rod will come with the clevis at the lower end and the ball joint on the upper end. Both have threaded rod connections so they can be adjusted around 3/4" total travel which should be enough for everyone to dial in their chest.
Upgrading would consist of removing the old lid and rod and installing the new ones. If you have the lighting we could either install new lighting on the new lid for you or you can relocate your existing. It will remove from the clear lid very easily and then it would get a few dabs of epoxy or hot glue to set it in to the new lid. I suppose you could just put some tape on the back too if you wanted to be able to really easily remove it.
I think that's about it. I'll post pics and vids when mine is dialed in so you can see it in action and with the lighting at the right viewing angle.
I'll post the files if anyone wants to print their own and the pieces used. I also modded up the bracket a bit to give it a bit more strength in some areas which had proven weak on some failed prints. Rounded some edges, cleaned it up. Might add a few wire holders like others did.
I also made a prototype keypad extension if you want the keypad mounted near your coin door. I was looking for a remote solution but nothing is going to be plug and play in this current setup. Sent the proto out today to a pinsider to test, if it's what he was looking for then I'll make then for anyone who wants them.
[quoted image]

Looks like I ordered about a week to early. Just got mine in the mail. I certainly could have waited a couple more weeks for this upgrade

#1122 8 months ago
Quoted from fossmin:

Looks like I ordered about a week to early. Just got mine in the mail. I certainly could have waited a couple more weeks for this upgrade

If you got your mod in the last few weeks PM me and we'll get you a discount on the upgrade. I didn't know there would be a new version of any of this a few weeks ago or whatever

#1123 8 months ago

I haven't been on this thread lately a looks like a lot has changed. I bought a kit months ago and haven't had a chance to install it. will I need a upgrade kit, and have to download new firmware to make it work right??

#1124 8 months ago
Quoted from tonycip:

I haven't been on this thread lately a looks like a lot has changed. I bought a kit months ago and haven't had a chance to install it. will I need a upgrade kit, and have to download new firmware to make it work right??

To check the version plug in the controller via USB to a phone charger. It needs a mini usb plug, sort of an older style but widely available. If that isn't handy you can just plug the power in to the game (per the install instructions) without installing anything else and get power that way.

If the servo goes through one movement (it will center itself and then make one movement, about 55 degrees) then it is the old code and I would update. If it moves 2-3 times then it is the new code. Instructions to update here: https://pinballmods.co/chest-mod-code-update or you can send me the controller and I'll update it for you.

The lid/rod updates are totally optional. Most people have installed with the original lid and rod and mostly seem to have no issues with a few just needing some time spent adjusting. A few people needed the power boosters, reason is unclear as voltage is the same on each machine we measured. If you want the new lid and rod, it's there for sale but it's definitely not a "you have to do it" thing.

#1125 8 months ago

I can almost promise this is the final lid, lol. I wasn't happy with a few things... the cutout I made for the extra room need for the front right of the chest to not hit the lid (in some cases) needed a bit more and the hump on the back just wasn't needed. I am printing these 100% fill with PLA+ and there is almost no way to break those tabs. The ball joint is screwed in.

pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).png
#1126 8 months ago

Using a wood screw with the printed part doesn’t seem like the best method. Could you use a machine screw and lock nut with some type of plastic sleeve to provide a smooth surface?

#1127 8 months ago
Quoted from luckymoey:

Using a wood screw with the printed part doesn’t seem like the best method. Could you use a machine screw and lock nut with some type of plastic sleeve to provide a smooth surface?

It's actually a machine screw going in to threads It has almost no lateral forces on it so I'm not worried about the threads holding and it has a good amount of thread that grips the whole area. That's actually how they are provided to be mounted on RC planes and such, we are using a longer stainless screw than their provided hex head cap screw but the idea is the same.

#1128 8 months ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

It's actually a machine screw going in to threads

That's great. Sorry, I mistook it for a wood screw in the 2nd picture.

#1129 8 months ago

If you want to be able to change the light color of your chest Harry Houdini pinball mod co. Made me a extension cable so I can run it all the way to the coin door . Just tucked in along JJP harness along side. 5-minute job. Now I don’t have to lift the playfield all the way up just to change the colors or make it pulse . Thanks again pinball mod co

D0D4B739-E186-405B-B5F7-C8ACD29021BB (resized).jpegE3A792E4-2E29-4631-AD24-3269DB42EB3E (resized).jpegE51C148E-C8EB-4A1A-B347-DAE45B9B69D9 (resized).jpeg
#1132 8 months ago
Quoted from addams40:

If you want to be able to change the light color of your chest Harry Houdini pinball mod co. Made me a extension cable so I can run it all the way to the coin door . Just tucked in along JJP harness along side. 5-minute job. Now I don’t have to lift the playfield all the way up just to change the colors or make it pulse . Thanks again pinball mod co[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

#1133 8 months ago

Looks great! I am ready to order but do want the heartbeat type led pulse.

Without going too far back, is the LED strip always on or only when then chest opens?

#1134 8 months ago
Quoted from dnaman:

Looks great! I am ready to order but do want the heartbeat type led pulse.
Without going too far back, is the LED strip always on or only when then chest opens?

Only when open.

#1135 8 months ago

I finally started installing my opening chest mod last night and made some pretty good progress. I still need to upgrade the software since I have one of the first units shipped out.

The stopping point I hit was with one of the connectors. I couldn't find in the instruction videos where to connect the smaller control connector. Not the power connector that taps into the BP power harness, but the smaller cable. I assume that controls the servo. Which video would I find that in? I watched the "under the playfield" installation video (where I would have expected to find it) a few times. It only mentions the power tap.

#1136 8 months ago
Quoted from bigdaddy07:

I finally started installing my opening chest mod last night and made some pretty good progress. I still need to upgrade the software since I have one of the first units shipped out.
The stopping point I hit was with one of the connectors. I couldn't find in the instruction videos where to connect the smaller control connector. Not the power connector that taps into the BP power harness, but the smaller cable. I assume that controls the servo. Which video would I find that in? I watched the "under the playfield" installation video (where I would have expected to find it) a few times. It only mentions the power tap.

The smaller connector is for the optional LED mod inside the chest. If you didn't order the lighting mod then you won't use the smaller connector. The open/close mod itself only needs power.

#1137 8 months ago
Quoted from arzoo:

The smaller connector is for the optional LED mod inside the chest. If you didn't order the lighting mod then you won't use the smaller connector. The open/close mod itself only needs power.

Really? How is it triggered? I thought it's tied to ball locks. I must have missed something in the instructions. I did notice a leaf switch on the side that I couldn't figure out what activates it. Could it have something to do with that?

#1138 8 months ago
Quoted from bigdaddy07:

Really? How is it triggered? I thought it's tied to ball locks. I must have missed something in the instructions. I did notice a leaf switch on the side that I couldn't figure out what activates it. Could it have something to do with that?

That little switch is what the white nylon bushings hit when the forks are down. When the forks are down, the bushings close the switch and the controller knows that the chest should be closed, and vice-versa. The 3 wire green/red/white connector is for the lighting and all you need is the power, as arzoo said.

Here are the install videos if you haven't seen: https://pinballmods.co/actuated-chest-mod-installation-for-jjp-potc

#1139 8 months ago

I got it working! Super cool. It makes this game feel complete.

The reason I didn't see what was triggering the leaf switch is because the lower nylon post that triggers it had fallen out of my fork mechanism. I found them at the bottom of the cabinet.

I also didn't need to upgrade the software.

Thanks harryhoudini for putting this together.

#1140 8 months ago

This past weekend I installed the chest mod and it’s working great! Thanks to everyone who made this fantastic mod come together! All in all, the install took me about three hours, but I tried both types of lid brackets, so that added extra time. Here’s my suggestions for anyone else who’s planning to install this mod…

1) I removed the Black Pearl. This is not necessary but I think it made the install easier. Also helps if you’re adding other mods to the Pearl such as the window behind the gold targets and new stickers on the spinners and standups.
2) Remove the clear plastic shield over the coil behind the chest. This makes it easier to install the chest cover bracket. Also, you may want to modify (cut) this plastic to clear the bracket arm (see pic).
3) Installing the bracket to the chest cover may require multiple adjustments, and these can’t be done with the cover attached to the chest. The bracket itself allows shifting the cover forward or backward, and the hinge can be adjusted in all four directions. I would suggest attaching the bracket to the cover (don’t over tighten the screws) and leave the hinge lugs lose. Then test mount the cover to the chest (fit the hinge over the threaded mounting studs), hold the hinge tight to the back of the chest, and use tape or a marker to tag the position of the hinge/cover so that the cover aligns nicely with the arch on the front of the chest. Remove the cover, tighten the hinge nuts on the bracket, check for fit, and repeat if necessary. When you’ve got it right, add the nuts over the studs on the back of the chest and secure the cover in place.
4) If you’re using the newer bracket style, it’s easier to thread the rod to the ball-end swivel connector before you permanently attach the cover/hinge in place. For the final mounting of the cover, slip the rod down the slot in the playfield. Or you can remove the ball-end swivel from the bracket (remove the small screw/axle) and then reattach with the rod after the cover is in place. Btw, I used the metal rod from the original kit rather than the plastic slip style rod.
5) The main bracket under the playfield is very easy to install. All I’ll mention here is that I swapped the brass barrel connector from the outside to the inside of the servo arm (see pic). This allows the rod to align more closely with the chest bracket above the playfield. The only thing tricky about doing this is getting the tiny friction lug off and then back on the brass barrel connector. I removed the arm from the servo and used a small needle nose plyer (apply pressure with both tips to get the lug back on. Also, if you’re going to swap the barrel connector from outside to inside, make sure you do it after you’ve powered on the servo one time so you know where the start and stop positions are, otherwise the barrel connector could hit the servo motor enclosure. Lastly, if you’re using the new plastic slip style rod (rather than the metal rod), you don’t use the barrel connector so in that case this step is irrelevant.

In regard to the two different types of chest brackets; With the original design, the pull/push rod is attached to the bracket arm through a simple hole with a lock-nut threaded to end of the rod. When the rod pulls down the lock-nut hits the bracket arm, pulling it down (opening the cover). In reverse, when the rod pushes up, the weight of the cover allows it to close. The advantage with this design is that the lock-nut can be moved up or down to adjust how much the cover opens. The disadvantage is that the rod/nut combination can bind a bit on the bracket arm (bending the rod per the instructions helps with this). Also, this design allows the chest cover to swing open when you lift the playfield into the vertical position which can be troublesome if you turn on the power. Regardless, since the connection is not articulated, the design seems less elegant. But it works just fine. I’ll also mention that if you’re using the optional lighting mod, you can see the LEDs through the clear plexi bracket when the chest is open. I found setting the brightness lower helped with this.

With the newer chest bracket, the rod is attached with a ball-end swivel connection. A small machine screw acts as the axle. This is definitely a more elegant solution and there’s no binding and no issue when the playfield is vertical. Also, the LED shield diffuses the lighting which is nice. The only downside, you don’t get the flexibility to adjust how far the cover opens (unless you alter the software driving the servo). Given a choice, I preferred the new bracket design over the old.

That’s it. Hope this helps.

20191028_214850 (resized).jpg20191110_164442-edit (resized).jpg
2 weeks later
#1141 7 months ago

My chest mod has been working great, and I "think" it still is... but I installed the latest code (yes I'm late to the party) - and noticed something strange lately.
The chest still starts the game closed. Once you are able to "Shoot the chest to lock a ball" it opens. However, it doesn't close after it opens AND the Red Arrow to the chest stay lit! Even though the game KNOWS I've locked a ball, and even says "Ball 1 Locked" and so forth. So I'm thinking my chest is obeying the game code by staying open because the arrow is still lit? Anyone else seeing this? Once the game is over, the chest shuts, and the balls are kicked out. The game is also kicking ball out for multiball. Weird.

#1142 7 months ago
Quoted from MurphyPeoples:

My chest mod has been working great, and I "think" it still is... but I installed the latest code (yes I'm late to the party) - and noticed something strange lately.
The chest still starts the game closed. Once you are able to "Shoot the chest to lock a ball" it opens. However, it doesn't close after it opens AND the Red Arrow to the chest stay lit! Even though the game KNOWS I've locked a ball, and even says "Ball 1 Locked" and so forth. So I'm thinking my chest is obeying the game code by staying open because the arrow is still lit? Anyone else seeing this? Once the game is over, the chest shuts, and the balls are kicked out. The game is also kicking ball out for multiball. Weird.

There is no link between the game code and the chest code. Only the switch made it open en close.
Maybe you need to adjut the switch

#1143 7 months ago
Quoted from fifou313:

There is no link between the game code and the chest code. Only the switch made it open en close.
Maybe you need to adjut the switch

Yeah most likely the control arm for the switch on the mod needs to be bent to more reliably engage/disengage with the fork movement.

1 week later
#1144 7 months ago
Quoted from zaphX:

Yeah most likely the control arm for the switch on the mod needs to be bent to more reliably engage/disengage with the fork movement.

Okay my friends, I need your input. Something wonky is going on.
1. Chest opens and closes nicely upon power up.
2. Chest opens when "Shoot the chest to lock a ball"
3. But it seems that I only have to shoot ONE "Load Chest" target to be able to lock a ball. (need to confirm this)
4. Chest does NOT close until the 3rd ball is locked. Then it will close. Closes on 3rd ball lock EVERY TIME.
5. Chest closes when 3rd ball is locked, and then releases all 3 for Dead Man's Chest Multiball.
5. During Dead Man's Chest Multiball play, the PF LED's for the chest and Load Chest are NOT lit. Nor is the light strip mod inside the chest lit. Until Multiball is over. Then the lights come back on.

(This last point, might be something I've not noticed before).

I'll make a video to show everyone what I'm talking about. The game plays fine, nothing is interrupted with this issue. I'd just like to fix it.

My theory, since it consistently acts like this, is that the part that lowers onto the chest switch - is not raising back up to release the switch until all 3 balls are locked.
Does that sound legit? Anyone else experienced this? With that said, I'll inspect the operation of that unit - manually activate the opening, check underneath, and report back here.
Murph

#1145 7 months ago

Setting difficulty for chest MB too easy? No need to hit targets after first lock?

#1146 7 months ago
Quoted from Maurice:

Setting difficulty for chest MB too easy? No need to hit targets after first lock?

I don't think so. I have left everything to factory settings pretty much except for the VUK to the BP. Lowered that power a bit.

#1147 7 months ago
Quoted from MurphyPeoples:

Okay my friends, I need your input. Something wonky is going on.
1. Chest opens and closes nicely upon power up.
2. Chest opens when "Shoot the chest to lock a ball"
3. But it seems that I only have to shoot ONE "Load Chest" target to be able to lock a ball. (need to confirm this)
4. Chest does NOT close until the 3rd ball is locked. Then it will close. Closes on 3rd ball lock EVERY TIME.
5. Chest closes when 3rd ball is locked, and then releases all 3 for Dead Man's Chest Multiball.
5. During Dead Man's Chest Multiball play, the PF LED's for the chest and Load Chest are NOT lit. Nor is the light strip mod inside the chest lit. Until Multiball is over. Then the lights come back on.
(This last point, might be something I've not noticed before).
I'll make a video to show everyone what I'm talking about. The game plays fine, nothing is interrupted with this issue. I'd just like to fix it.
My theory, since it consistently acts like this, is that the part that lowers onto the chest switch - is not raising back up to release the switch until all 3 balls are locked.
Does that sound legit? Anyone else experienced this? With that said, I'll inspect the operation of that unit - manually activate the opening, check underneath, and report back here.
Murph

Clear the chest and do a manual switch test on the trunk optos by running your finger through the trunk area where the balls go when you're in the switch test screen. Make sure all 3 optos are registering, and in the right order. It seems like maybe only your 3rd opto may be working (i.e. it doesn't know the first two balls get in there).

#1148 7 months ago
Quoted from vireland:

Clear the chest and do a manual switch test on the trunk optos by running your finger through the trunk area where the balls go when you're in the switch test screen. Make sure all 3 optos are registering, and in the right order. It seems like maybe only your 3rd opto may be working (i.e. it doesn't know the first two balls get in there).

This theory has loads of promise. We shall see! Great thinking!

#1149 7 months ago
Quoted from MurphyPeoples:

This theory has loads of promise. We shall see! Great thinking!

It's very easy to pop out the optos on the back side of the chest when you're installing the mod, so my guess is maybe the first two have come loose from their snap-in holes OR you broke the legs off the opto that snap into the hole. It's VERY easy to do this. If they're loose and both sides of the snap-in connector legs are still there, squeeze them together gently with needlenose pliers before you attempt to snap them back in the hole. What usually happens is they get bent wide, and when you try to push it back in (blind), you bend one leg to the outside of the hole instead of in it, and that leg now weakens or snaps off, and only one leg goes in the hole, which isn't enough to hold the opto on. So, if it IS the optos, and you are lucky enough that that just came loose, but each snap-in peg still has both legs, be VERY CAREFUL popping them back in.

#1150 7 months ago
Quoted from vireland:

It's very easy to pop out the optos on the back side of the chest when you're installing the mod, so my guess is maybe the first two have come loose from their snap-in holes OR you broke the legs off the opto that snap into the hole. It's VERY easy to do this. If they're loose and both sides of the snap-in connector legs are still there, squeeze them together gently with needlenose pliers before you attempt to snap them back in the hole. What usually happens is they get bent wide, and when you try to push it back in (blind), you bend one leg to the outside of the hole instead of in it, and that leg now weakens or snaps off, and only one leg goes in the hole, which isn't enough to hold the opto on. So, if it IS the optos, and you are lucky enough that that just came loose, but each snap-in peg still has both legs, be VERY CAREFUL popping them back in.

Do you have a picture of this?

Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
$ 28.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
The MOD Couple
Wanted
Machine - Wanted
Plymouth, MN
$ 233.10
Cabinet - Sound/Speakers
PinWoofer
$ 28.00
$ 74.00
Cabinet - Armor And Blades
Id Rather Play Pinball
There are 1264 posts in this topic. You are on page 23 of 26.

Hey there! Got a moment?

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run thanks to donations from our visitors? Please donate to Pinside, support the site and get anext to your username to show for it! Donate to Pinside