(Topic ID: 244666)

JJPOTC Treasure Chest Open/Close mod, now working!


By pinballj

1 year ago



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  • 1,276 posts
  • 118 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 hour ago by Faust
  • Topic is favorited by 89 Pinsiders

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There are 1276 posts in this topic. You are on page 21 of 26.
#1001 12 months ago

Just got my chest mod all dialed in and working perfectly! Big thanks to HarryH for all your help my friend. I had the issue some people had of having put on the servo arm in reverse. He made me a video just to explain how to fix. I love this mod and really appreciate the customer support.

#1002 12 months ago
Quoted from GamerRick:

Just got my chest mod all dialed in and working perfectly! Big thanks to HarryH for all your help my friend. I had the issue some people had of having put on the servo arm in reverse. He made me a video just to explain how to fix. I love this mod and really appreciate the customer support.

WOO! Glad you got it.

#1003 12 months ago

Harry, great job on another great mod! Just finished my install. You are right about one thing,,,adjust, adjust, and adjust some more. Once you find the right spot it works great!! Keep us informed of a back piece mod for behind the chest.

#1004 12 months ago
Quoted from KevinG:

Harry, great job on another great mod! Just finished my install. You are right about one thing,,,adjust, adjust, and adjust some more. Once you find the right spot it works great!! Keep us informed of a back piece mod for behind the chest.

pinballj is the man!

We got caught up in a WOZ mod that really needs to be done. Will get back on the chest back, just needs a bit of refinement.

#1005 12 months ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

pinballj is the man!
We got caught up in a WOZ mod that really needs to be done. Will get back on the chest back, just needs a bit of refinement.

No...you're the man for getting this produced and available to the masses!

#1007 11 months ago

I'm having the hardest time bending the rod correctly to let the chest go all the way down. Every time I think I have it, after a game or two it starts to hang up and doesn't close all the way again. I think it's because I had to move the actuator arm to the other side and it's at a worse angle.

#1008 11 months ago
Quoted from javagrind888:

I'm having the hardest time bending the rod correctly to let the chest go all the way down. Every time I think I have it, after a game or two it starts to hang up and doesn't close all the way again. I think it's because I had to move the actuator arm to the other side and it's at a worse angle.

Sounds like you have the nut on top too tight.

#1009 11 months ago
Quoted from vireland:

Sounds like you have the nut on top too tight.

I'll check it, but I could swear I only have it about halfway through the nut.

#1010 11 months ago
Quoted from javagrind888:

I'll check it, but I could swear I only have it about halfway through the nut.

I had similar problems, the lid opened, but not very smoothly, due to the stiffness of the rod and the thickness of the plastic. As mentioned here before, I used a cord instead of the rod and I am very satisfied with the result. Possibly a nylon cord might be an even better solution, I used a normal cord.

#1011 11 months ago
Quoted from javagrind888:

I'll check it, but I could swear I only have it about halfway through the nut.

I prefer the barrel with a set screw on top and the thread-end with the clevis on the bottom, clipped onto the servo arm instead of the backwards other-way-round installation. Less chance for binding.
barrel-nut (resized).jpg

#1012 11 months ago
Quoted from Zora:

I had similar problems, the lid opened, but not very smoothly, due to the stiffness of the rod and the thickness of the plastic. As mentioned here before, I used a cord instead of the rod and I am very satisfied with the result. Possibly a nylon cord might be an even better solution, I used a normal cord.

This sounds like an ideal solution. I think I'll give it a try!

#1013 11 months ago

Found this, think it will work? I'm betting I could find one of those barrel pieces for the wire to go through in the back of the chest too.
20190930_143532 (resized).jpg

#1014 11 months ago

Might be too thick and is a bit stiff. I would prefer a soft cord or nylon. But give it a try, perhaps it works.

#1015 11 months ago

I used this type of cord.

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#1016 11 months ago

I found another spool of the electronic wire that's half the thickness. I think I'll try that. I'll try and do this tomorrow night and report my results.

#1017 11 months ago
Quoted from Zora:

Might be too thick and is a bit stiff. I would prefer a soft cord or nylon. But give it a try, perhaps it works.

Something you need to be careful of is to ensure that whatever material your cord or rod is made from, it must not stretch, or eventually the chest will fail to open, or open sluggishly

#1018 11 months ago

Everything on mine seems to be backwards, can get the chest to open when hitting the targets but it wont close. Ive updated the code, tried installing every which way but nothing works. When I switch the game on it cycles just fine and opens/closes.

Wasted 5 hours today on this hunk of junk. The instructions are wrong and its up to us to just guess which way ours were put together.

#1019 11 months ago
Quoted from Lancelin2k14:

Everything on mine seems to be backwards, can get the chest to open when hitting the targets but it wont close. Ive updated the code, tried installing every which way but nothing works. When I switch the game on it cycles just fine and opens/closes.
Wasted 5 hours today on this hunk of junk. The instructions are wrong and its up to us to just guess which way ours were put together.

Search for my last post my friend Derek and I were installing it and the solution for that problem was discussed in his post exchanges with fellow members, just above mine. zapHX is his username.

#1020 11 months ago

amazon.com link »

I used this flexible pushrod with very good results. It has an outer shaft that remains stationary. This protects wires from abrasion. And the inner yellow shaft pulls the chest lid open. Both pieces are flexible.

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#1021 11 months ago
Quoted from Lancelin2k14:

Everything on mine seems to be backwards, can get the chest to open when hitting the targets but it wont close. Ive updated the code, tried installing every which way but nothing works. When I switch the game on it cycles just fine and opens/closes.
Wasted 5 hours today on this hunk of junk. The instructions are wrong and its up to us to just guess which way ours were put together.

We had some struggles with this too. If the chest does the open/close on boot properly, the issue is probably the arm to the microswitch. Make sure it closes and opens the switch in response to the forks being up and down, and bend the arm if needed.

#1022 11 months ago
Quoted from mslow:

I used this flexible pushrod with very good results. It has an outer shaft that remains stationary. This protects wires from abrasion. And the inner yellow shaft pulls the chest lid open. Both pieces are flexible.

I have the mod on order and the flexible pushrod seems like a great idea versus tweaking the metal one. Did you just use the hardware that comes with the flexible rod? Any other installation tips?

#1023 11 months ago
Quoted from mslow:

amazon.com link »
I used this flexible pushrod with very good results. It has an outer shaft that remains stationary. This protects wires from abrasion. And the inner yellow shaft pulls the chest lid open. Both pieces are flexible.[quoted image]

How did you install? Did you have to trim the rods?

#1024 11 months ago

The flexible pushrod kit comes with short metal threaded rods that screw into the plastic yellow pushrod at each end. I trimmed the length of the yellow plastic with a razor blade. And screwed in the metal rod using needle nose pliers to hold the threaded rod. I used the clevis that came with the yellow pushrod and connected it to the servo. I used the original nut that came with the mod kit on the other end of the yellow rod. I did slightly bend the threaded rod at the trunk end to help with alignment. Once you have the yellow push rod all constructed and have the proper length figured out, cut the outer red tube to a shorter length than the Yellow pushrod and mount or glue it in place. The red is a stationary conduit that the yellow travel through.

#1025 11 months ago
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#1026 11 months ago
Quoted from mslow:

The flexible pushrod kit comes with short metal threaded rods that screw into the plastic yellow pushrod at each end. I trimmed the length of the yellow plastic with a razor blade. And screwed in the metal rod using needle nose pliers to hold the threaded rod. I used the clevis that came with the yellow pushrod and connected it to the servo. I used the original nut that came with the mod kit on the other end of the yellow rod. I did slightly bend the threaded rod at the trunk end to help with alignment. Once you have the yellow push rod all constructed and have the proper length figured out, cut the outer red tube to a shorter length than the Yellow pushrod and mount or glue it in place. The red is a stationary conduit that the yellow travel through.

Can you post a picture of it installed please?

#1027 11 months ago

Sure!

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#1028 11 months ago
Quoted from mslow:

Sure![quoted image][quoted image]

Perfect! Thanks!

#1029 11 months ago

That flexible pushrod is a pretty darn good idea. I am going to see if I can add some sort of a sheath to mine to avoid the potential of it constantly rubbing on wires

#1030 11 months ago

Ok, I can't find the type barrell nut that the servo uses with the screw to hold the rod or cable. Can anyone link it to me so I can buy one?

#1031 11 months ago
Quoted from javagrind888:

Ok, I can't find the type barrell nut that the servo uses with the screw to hold the rod or cable. Can anyone link it to me so I can buy one?

If you use the clevis on the servo end, this is the barrel nut that goes on the end by the chest:

amazon.com link »

#1032 11 months ago

Thanks! Now to see if I can get it cheaper than bulk....

EDIT: found they are usually used for model airplanes and I have a model shop near me. I'll stop by there this week.

#1033 11 months ago
Quoted from javagrind888:

Ok, I can't find the type barrell nut that the servo uses with the screw to hold the rod or cable. Can anyone link it to me so I can buy one?

I can send you one, I think we have extras.

Quoted from mslow:

amazon.com link »
I used this flexible pushrod with very good results. It has an outer shaft that remains stationary. This protects wires from abrasion. And the inner yellow shaft pulls the chest lid open. Both pieces are flexible.[quoted image]

Brilliant solution. I've ordered some and I'll post a video of the install for anyone who wants to change over.

The biggest issues I've seen with the rod hanging up are either on the playfield (gotta bend it around the slot) or through the hole in the chest lid bracket. Unless it's bent at the lid about 5-10 degrees and oriented properly (the rod will "sit" in place when it is bent) it will get hung up.

lancelin2k14 I think we got you sorted over email, let me know if you are still having issues.

#1034 11 months ago

Yep, adding more power solved my issues. Thanks for your help. Great mod!

#1035 11 months ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

I can send you one, I think we have extras.

Brilliant solution. I've ordered some and I'll post a video of the install for anyone who wants to change over.
The biggest issues I've seen with the rod hanging up are either on the playfield (gotta bend it around the slot) or through the hole in the chest lid bracket. Unless it's bent at the lid about 5-10 degrees and oriented properly (the rod will "sit" in place when it is bent) it will get hung up.
lancelin2k14 I think we got you sorted over email, let me know if you are still having issues.

That would be great!

#1036 11 months ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

I can send you one, I think we have extras.

Brilliant solution. I've ordered some and I'll post a video of the install for anyone who wants to change over.
The biggest issues I've seen with the rod hanging up are either on the playfield (gotta bend it around the slot) or through the hole in the chest lid bracket. Unless it's bent at the lid about 5-10 degrees and oriented properly (the rod will "sit" in place when it is bent) it will get hung up.
lancelin2k14 I think we got you sorted over email, let me know if you are still having issues.

Agreed thanks for posting a video. I’m going to try this method also. My rod gets a little hung up sometimes this may be better. Would really appreciate a how to video.

#1037 11 months ago
Quoted from Lancelin2k14:

Yep, adding more power solved my issues. Thanks for your help. Great mod!

How do you add power ?

#1038 11 months ago
Quoted from Thot:

How do you add power ?

I'll do a writeup and make the plug and play option for this. I'll put them in a 3D printed case that we're using for the WOZ lighting kit now. You can add a DC voltage booster. Take the ~4.7v that the game supplies and kick it up to like 5.5v.

You would use something like this. There are cheaper ones without the display. Just set it to the voltage before you wire it up to the mod, just in case. So just cut the power wires to the device and wire this inline. Put the inputs on it first, power on the game, set the voltage with a DMM (or using the display) and then power the game off, attach the outputs to the mod.

amazon.com link »

#1039 11 months ago

Thanks, nice stuff even for wpc reset issues!
I found a lightest solution, just use a string so less power needed and chest open without issue

#1040 11 months ago
Quoted from Thot:

How do you add power ?

I just plugged a mini usb cable in to the adrino and the other end in to the usb update port on the machine.

Prior to that, there was not enough power for the motor to run.

#1041 11 months ago
Quoted from Lancelin2k14:

I just plugged a mini usb cable in to the adrino and the other end in to the usb update port on the machine.
Prior to that, there was not enough power for the motor to run.

Nice!

#1042 11 months ago

I have the devices in hand ready to wire up if anyone wants one. I'll figure out the cost. It would plug and play, you would do nothing apart from plugging it in.

#1043 11 months ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

I have the devices in hand ready to wire up if anyone wants one. I'll figure out the cost. It would plug and play, you would do nothing apart from plugging it in.

Is this for extra power?

#1044 11 months ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

Is this for extra power?

Yeah, DC voltage booster. Small, inline plug.

#1045 11 months ago

I got the mod and installed it today. It works, but it’s a wee bit flaky. Sometimes, for example, it only opens the chest a crack.

Next open/close works as expected.

Is this a power issue?

EDIT: Hmm, seems to have stabilized out. If it gets flaky again I will try the string approach.

Also, I put some wire loom for the rod to travel through, which gives it a smooth plastic tunnel to operate in without chafing the playfield or other wires.

#1046 11 months ago
Quoted from zaphX:

I got the mod and installed it today. It works, but it’s a wee bit flaky. Sometimes, for example, it only opens the chest a crack.
Next open/close works as expected.
Is this a power issue?
EDIT: Hmm, seems to have stabilized out. If it gets flaky again I will try the string approach.
Also, I put some wire loom for the rod to travel through, which gives it a smooth plastic tunnel to operate in without chafing the playfield or other wires.

That's basically that flexible pushrod that someone linked to above, you just made a DIY one Seems like it could only help.

As long as the rod isn't binding anywhere then the partial opening might be a power related thing, although I don't think we've seen that. Either works or doesn't. If you have the lighting mod make sure you check out the speed options (bottom right key).

#1047 11 months ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

That's basically that flexible pushrod that someone linked to above, you just made a DIY one Seems like it could only help.
As long as the rod isn't binding anywhere then the partial opening might be a power related thing, although I don't think we've seen that. Either works or doesn't. If you have the lighting mod make sure you check out the speed options (bottom right key).

No lighting mod, but I would like it to close the chest faster...there is a delay between the forks going down and the chest closing that I'd like to reduce. Is that possible with the little remote button thing?

#1048 11 months ago
Quoted from zaphX:

No lighting mod, but I would like it to close the chest faster...there is a delay between the forks going down and the chest closing that I'd like to reduce. Is that possible with the little remote button thing?

That delay won't change that way, but I can change it in the software and send you a custom version. There is a "debounce" delay which waits a timeout period before the controller takes an action. Basically making sure the switch was fully triggered once. I can shorten that up and you can see if that changes it for you.

If you are ok with reflashing your ardunio I can send you the code: https://pinballmods.co/actuating-chest-mod-code-update-instructions

#1049 11 months ago

Well, I spoke too soon about it working itself out. I am getting regular failures now. Frequent but not 100%.

The symptoms:

- Chest opens only a sliver of what it should.
- When the chest closes, it rises to its full height, then closes.
- Sometimes on boot when it does the open-close thing, it doesn’t open all the way there either, making a whirring noise when it stalls.

I don’t think the linkage is binding, but I’ll check it again.

I’m assuming the bootup sequence doesn’t care about the state of the microswitch, so the control arm for that is unlikely to be the culprit. I am guessing this is a power issue and it doesn’t have enough power to pull it down.

Any suggestions?

#1050 11 months ago
Quoted from zaphX:

Well, I spoke too soon about it working itself out. I am getting regular failures now. Frequent but not 100%.
The symptoms:
- Chest opens only a sliver of what it should.
- When the chest closes, it rises to its full height, then closes.
- Sometimes on boot when it does the open-close thing, it doesn’t open all the way there either, making a whirring noise when it stalls.
I don’t think the linkage is binding, but I’ll check it again.
I’m assuming the bootup sequence doesn’t care about the state of the microswitch, so the control arm for that is unlikely to be the culprit. I am guessing this is a power issue and it doesn’t have enough power to pull it down.
Any suggestions?

Open/close sequence on boot sets the servo to zero, opens and closes and then sets itself to match the position of the switch. So you could just see an open/close or an open/close/open. The first movements not being related to the switch at all.

If your switch is being fully contacted by the bushings and giving a clear clicking sound, then it is unlikely that. Since the chest triggers (it sounds like) but the movement is lacking, I would suspect the switch is fine. You could test it by just moving the forks out of the way and manually triggering the switch. Does it function properly then?

But more likely it is binding up. It doesn't give a full test doing this with the playfield up since gravity doesn't come in to play like it should, but in testing does the thing move fluidly?

I am going to make a video right now about my thoughts on the rod adjustment. That seems to be one of the biggest questions or hangups.

Maybe with this new flexible rod all the issues will be solved.

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