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(Topic ID: 244666)

JJPOTC Treasure Chest Open/Close mod, now working!


By pinballj

1 year ago



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  • 1,297 posts
  • 122 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 19 days ago by Betelgeuse
  • Topic is favorited by 90 Pinsiders

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#51 1 year ago

hogbog Please work with this guy and make an official mod from JJP. Great opportunity here. I'd buy it for sure and give the OP a cut for his design.

#52 1 year ago
Quoted from delt31:

Haha I get your point though. Hopefully OP changes mind or someone takes these like mod couple and sell them

I agree! Most of us don’t own a 3D printer, you know?

#53 1 year ago

Yes!! Fantastic I’m in

#54 1 year ago
Quoted from zaphX:

Out of curiosity, does anyone know how the original chest mech worked? If it could somehow inherit it's motion from the chest fork, rather than run on its own motor, I think it would be cool.
The chest fork mech motion has a bit of "attitude" to it, in how it goes up slightly before it slams down.

I think the lid was just too heavy.
I wanted to rebuild that, but unfortunately I'm missing the time.

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#55 1 year ago
Quoted from gumnut01:

Everyone. The OP says he does not want to make it for you and sell it. He says he will give instructions a material list and the 3D stl files. So stop all saying that you want to buy it from him (unless he changes his mind)

I think some people don't have access to 3D printers or have soldering skills, etc. When I did the spike power supply quiet fan mod thread (here: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/replacing-stern-spike-noisy-ps-fans) , I never intended to be selling them, but the overwhelming majority of people in that thread preferred a plug and play kit even though I posted part numbers and step by step instructions to do it yourself. I've since sold hundreds of the plug n play fan kit. I doubt even 10% of that have done it on their own from scratch following my initial instructions. So I totally understand what's going on. Best case if he doesn't want to go pure retail is to do something like the spike fan thread. Provide instructions/part numbers/files for those that want to do DIY and team up with mod couple or whoever to sell premade kits to those that don't want DIY and just want something they can install and run.

#56 1 year ago

I'll warehouse and retail them if someone wants to do the printing and dirty work, when it comes time. Heck, I probably have a source for the printing (the other mods) if someone wants them produced commercial and OP is ok with that. I have other unrelated retail online operations already and am launching a new mod sales site shortly to handle some other stuff I've developed.

#57 1 year ago

This is awesome. I would love to buy this if you ever mass produce and sell them.

#58 1 year ago
Quoted from Agima2000:

I think the lid was just too heavy.
I wanted to rebuild that, but unfortunately I'm missing the time.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Ah hah. Exactly as I suspected, the fork does the job of lifting the lid via a linkage.

How is the chest lid currently forced open? Was the hinge simply replaced with some sort of flange? In your pics, how does the linkage connect to the chest lid itself?

#59 1 year ago
Quoted from zaphX:

Ah hah. Exactly as I suspected, the fork does the job of lifting the lid via a linkage.
How is the chest lid currently forced open? Was the hinge simply replaced with some sort of flange? In your pics, how does the linkage connect to the chest lid itself?

#60 1 year ago

Following. Want one for sure.

#61 1 year ago

Take our money!

#62 1 year ago

count me in. YAAARRRRR!

#63 1 year ago

If MEZELmods can help let us know. We did the walking Stay Puff and it involved using a servo.

#64 1 year ago

I'm not understanding what is going on in that video. Is there a separate coil for the chest lid? Or is it just connecting the hinge to the fork via linkage + seesaw?

#65 1 year ago
Quoted from zaphX:

I'm not understanding what is going on in that video. Is there a separate coil for the chest lid? Or is it just connecting the hinge to the fork via linkage + seesaw?

That coil is the one that releases the balls. It looks like there's just a linkage that goes down under the playfield, pulling the lid open when the forks go up and releasing the lid to close when the forks go down.

#66 1 year ago
Quoted from vireland:

That coil is the one that releases the balls. It looks like there's just a linkage that goes down under the playfield, pulling the lid open when the forks go up and releasing the lid to close when the forks go down.

Ah ok sweet. That is what I thought as well.

Seems like this could be haxored together with some basic parts, maybe.

Am I correct to assume the chest does -not- have a hinge as shipped?

#67 1 year ago
Quoted from zaphX:

Ah ok sweet. That is what I thought as well.
Seems like this could be haxored together with some basic parts, maybe.
Am I correct to assume the chest does -not- have a hinge as shipped?

I have no idea, haven't taken it apart.

#68 1 year ago

It looks like the parts list to make this happen are:

- Hinge
- L bracket to connect hinge to linkage
- Linkage down through the playfield slot
- Metal linkage to use as "seesaw" hooked to the fork mech, 2 holes 1 slot
- Basic lock nuts, nylon washers, spacers etc.

Unknowns at this point:

- Exact sizes/specs on the parts in question
- Are these customs, or can they be found in the wild somehow

EDIT: Maybe this will work? It claims to have holes -and- slots. https://www.lowes.com/pd/Hillman-0-094-ft-x-1-375-in-Plated-Steel-Slotted-Metal-Flat-Bar/3059253

-1
#69 1 year ago

Maybe I'm slow.. or missing something... but OP used a servo, right?

And the concept is that the original method to do this was going to be using the same lifting mechanism as the forks but was never implemented? I would ponder why it was scrapped? Is it just cost for parts or I am wondering if the forks will not have enough power to lift the lid or quickly enough? Otherwise that seems like a quick and easy solution.

#70 1 year ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Maybe I'm slow.. or missing something... but OP used a servo, right?
And the concept is that the original method to do this was going to be using the same lifting mechanism as the forks but was never implemented? I would ponder why it was scrapped? Is it just cost for parts or I am wondering if the forks will not have enough power to lift the lid or quickly enough? Otherwise that seems like a quick and easy solution.

There was a reliability issue in the field. What part was unreliable, I don't know. BUT it seems like the servo method would be less jarring for the whole assembly. Given how thin those mounts are for the chest, I can see them breaking if it's being banged open and closed with the force of the forks.

#71 1 year ago
Quoted from zaphX:

It looks like the parts list to make this happen are:
- Hinge
- L bracket to connect hinge to linkage
- Linkage down through the playfield slot
- Metal linkage to use as "seesaw" hooked to the fork mech, 2 holes 1 slot
- Basic lock nuts, nylon washers, spacers etc.
Unknowns at this point:
- Exact sizes/specs on the parts in question
- Are these customs, or can they be found in the wild somehow
EDIT: Maybe this will work? It claims to have holes -and- slots. https://www.lowes.com/pd/Hillman-0-094-ft-x-1-375-in-Plated-Steel-Slotted-Metal-Flat-Bar/3059253

As soon as I get my game room online I will take a look at the final details. I agree, while the first design was problematic they seemed to be going the right direction just ran out of time to run new parts. When I am online again I have access (so to speak) to a prototype game to evaluate and reverse engineer.

-1
#72 1 year ago
Quoted from vireland:

There was a reliability issue in the field. What part was unreliable, I don't know. BUT it seems like the servo method would be less jarring for the whole assembly. Given how thin those mounts are for the chest, I can see them breaking if it's being banged open and closed with the force of the forks.

I can see them breaking even without that

#73 1 year ago

If I have to I’ll buy a 3d printer just to have this haha, no joke

#74 1 year ago
Quoted from zaphX:

It looks like the parts list to make this happen are:
- Hinge
- L bracket to connect hinge to linkage
- Linkage down through the playfield slot
- Metal linkage to use as "seesaw" hooked to the fork mech, 2 holes 1 slot
- Basic lock nuts, nylon washers, spacers etc.
Unknowns at this point:
- Exact sizes/specs on the parts in question
- Are these customs, or can they be found in the wild somehow
EDIT: Maybe this will work? It claims to have holes -and- slots. https://www.lowes.com/pd/Hillman-0-094-ft-x-1-375-in-Plated-Steel-Slotted-Metal-Flat-Bar/3059253

Just fyi the hinge I used is this one:
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Gatehouse-1-1-2-in-Zinc-Mortise-Door-Hinge-2-Pack/50041808

The holes on the hinge line up perfectly with the threaded posts that stick out of the back of the chest bottom.

I had to make a new metal plate for the actual chest top though. You could probably bend the metal bracket that comes in the game, but I wanted to go back to the original config , if I ever needed to.

#75 1 year ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Maybe I'm slow.. or missing something... but OP used a servo, right?
And the concept is that the original method to do this was going to be using the same lifting mechanism as the forks but was never implemented? I would ponder why it was scrapped? Is it just cost for parts or I am wondering if the forks will not have enough power to lift the lid or quickly enough? Otherwise that seems like a quick and easy solution.

I thought it was removed do to inconsistent ball locking , but no clue if that was due to the fork mech not raising or something else. I did the servo method to have something completely separate "powering" the lid. Worst case if there were rejects with the servo, you can just simply unplug it and turn the servo to the location you want the lid to be at in a fixed position

#76 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballj:

I thought it was removed do to inconsistent ball locking , but no clue if that was due to the fork mech not raising or something else. I did the servo method to have something completely separate "powering" the lid. Worst case if there were rejects with the servo, you can just simply unplug it and turn the servo to the location you want the lid to be at in a fixed position

Makes sense to me! I'd love the snap open close but I imagine there is some issue with it.

-1
#77 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballj:

I thought it was removed do to inconsistent ball locking , but no clue if that was due to the fork mech not raising or something else. I did the servo method to have something completely separate "powering" the lid. Worst case if there were rejects with the servo, you can just simply unplug it and turn the servo to the location you want the lid to be at in a fixed position

So are you planning on selling the mod?

#78 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballj:

I thought it was removed do to inconsistent ball locking , but no clue if that was due to the fork mech not raising or something else. I did the servo method to have something completely separate "powering" the lid. Worst case if there were rejects with the servo, you can just simply unplug it and turn the servo to the location you want the lid to be at in a fixed position

I also believe that the servo method is the best way.

#79 1 year ago

After seeing the proto pictures , I set out today to see it active in a fully mechanical form.

It works ,( I have a video but no clue how to upload it here) although its quite a violent action& jerk on the whole metal chest bracket . Fitting some rubbers will help but I can guess that stress fatigue on the brackets is the cause of ditching the function for production models.

Oh and a shame my lid came so warped from the factory

Kudo’s to the op for the servo idea, probably the best way.
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#80 1 year ago
Quoted from steigerpijp:

After seeing the proto pictures , I set out today to see it active in a fully mechanical form.
It works ,( I have a video but no clue how to upload it here) although its quite a violent action& jerk on the whole metal chest bracket . Fitting some rubbers will help but I can guess that stress fatigue on the brackets is the cause of ditching the function for production models.
Oh and a shame my lid came so warped from the factory
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

See, I love this solution. What you crafted here is exactly what I hoped to get. Nothing against the OP but I like the simplicity - no additional switch/servo in the mix, and the action 100% synced with the fork mech. Violence on the bracket doesn't bother me, but I really would like to hear how/why this mech was abandoned. Specifically what the problem(s) were with it.

Also, did you take any video of it in action?

#81 1 year ago
Quoted from zaphX:

See, I love this solution. What you crafted here is exactly what I hoped to get. Nothing against the OP but I like the simplicity - no additional switch/servo in the mix, and the action 100% synced with the fork mech. Violence on the bracket doesn't bother me, but I really would like to hear how/why this mech was abandoned. Specifically what the problem(s) were with it.
Also, did you take any video of it in action?

It's not so much violence on the bracket as violence transferred to the chest lid and mounts. Given that they're already shown to be breaking just from the ball whipping into the chest, the amount of violence of this action is very likely to break stuff and is probably why it was abandoned. The servo is likely the best long-term solution given that it's much gentler on the chest and mounts from the video.

#82 1 year ago
Quoted from steigerpijp:

After seeing the proto pictures , I set out today to see it active in a fully mechanical form.
It works ,( I have a video but no clue how to upload it here) although its quite a violent action& jerk on the whole metal chest bracket . Fitting some rubbers will help but I can guess that stress fatigue on the brackets is the cause of ditching the function for production models.
Oh and a shame my lid came so warped from the factory
Kudo’s to the op for the servo idea, probably the best way.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Bravo thats the ticket!! I would add a spring to the connection point to absorb the abrupt trigger but I think you are on the right path of simplicity for Sure!!! FYI if you need assistance with the cams I could Easily waterjet cut those to micro precision around a hundred in 10 minutes. Let me know if I can help.

#83 1 year ago
Quoted from steigerpijp:

After seeing the proto pictures , I set out today to see it active in a fully mechanical form.
It works ,( I have a video but no clue how to upload it here) although its quite a violent action& jerk on the whole metal chest bracket . Fitting some rubbers will help but I can guess that stress fatigue on the brackets is the cause of ditching the function for production models.
Oh and a shame my lid came so warped from the factory
Kudo’s to the op for the servo idea, probably the best way.

Good job though on getting this working!!

I must say I like this too for the simplicity, but I like the open/close to be less drastic and slower (creepier?). I actually slowed down the servo a bit when it opens, and made it close a little faster on purpose.

Just a quick update on the servo version:
Testing over the weekend (Father's day) went great. The chest never locked up, it open a closed when you expected, no ball rejects, etc.
There is one minor change I am doing to the bracket (moving the micro switch just a little bit) and I think I can call that part finalized, which then I will get that uploaded.
I found a place that can make the metal brackets, and I am just waiting for a quote on what that will cost.

I will upload the plans, Bill of Materials, and a link to the source again when all is done.
Kit-wise: It will prob be a week or so before knowing what this will all cost. I will do a call-to-order when I have all of the info to share.

Last but not least, the spot right behind the treasure chest where I made a temporary cover in white in the video, I am working on a mount that will both hide the hinge better, and allow for the first mate of Davey Jones to guard the chest (using one of those 7" toys you use to replace Tortuga Tom):
https://pirates.fandom.com/wiki/Maccus

#84 1 year ago
Quoted from zaphX:

See, I love this solution. What you crafted here is exactly what I hoped to get. Nothing against the OP but I like the simplicity - no additional switch/servo in the mix, and the action 100% synced with the fork mech. Violence on the bracket doesn't bother me, but I really would like to hear how/why this mech was abandoned. Specifically what the problem(s) were with it.
Also, did you take any video of it in action?

Sorry, but that mech does not look very reliable. It serves two purposes simultaneously, raising the fork and opening the chest. The chest cover is massive and the small metal post needs power to open it. The cover in the picture looks not aligned with the base chest anyway.

A motorized mech seems favorably at least on the long run.

#85 1 year ago
Quoted from Zora:

Sorry, but that mech does not look very reliable. It serves two purposes simultaneously, raising the fork and opening the chest. The chest cover is massive and the small metal post needs power to open it. The cover in the picture looks not aligned with the base chest anyway.
A motorized mech seems favorably at least on the long run.

Constructive critisism is whats needed in a test case like this but thanks anyway ..

But yes, this set up is still quick and dirty, using lexan strips that I can quickly make to get the measurements and lengths just right. If I have to Mill it every time in Stainless I would still be testing. I will make some vector files for others to with the correct length and get those cut in steel etc.
Like yelobird said, together we’ll get this working.

I had trouble finding the sweet spot on the pivot points, sometimes the lid was way high, other times low and other times the lexan would buckle, proving the force was too much.

Bringing back the hinge further from the chest lid helped a lot . It doesnt take much force to lift the lid, the weight is no isssue for the coil either. Its just the nature of a coil firing thats Jolting the assy a little too much for a long life.

All in all, the servo option still looks like the winner for the long run but i’ll be Testing this for now

Oh, and on the lid alignment comment, its straight Allright, my chest and lid are warped/bent like this from day 1.. nothing I can do there I wish I had had a better start point.

#86 1 year ago

Here's the video for the steigerpijp linkage-based mod in action:

https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B11JqstnBJF1jPF

Looking very forward to this being productized!

#87 1 year ago
Quoted from zaphX:

Here's the video for the steigerpijp linkage-based mod in action:
https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B11JqstnBJF1jPF
Looking very forward to this being productized!

Fricken love it! Thanks for sharing. Yep, thats the way the original worked. If #steigerpijp can figure out the correct cam pivot points I could have these cut from ANY material on my waterjet by the hundred in an afternoon. So glad there are people pushing to make this happen as its to simple to have been omitted honestly. Count me in for fab of any kind in any material.

#88 1 year ago
Quoted from Yelobird:

Fricken love it! Thanks for sharing. Yep, thats the way the original worked. If #steigerpijp can figure out the correct cam pivot points I could have these cut from ANY material on my waterjet by the hundred in an afternoon. So glad there are people pushing to make this happen as its to simple to have been omitted honestly. Count me in for fab of any kind in any material.

I will absolutely buy this kit and sign up as a tester. It will get a lot of mileage in my house!

#89 1 year ago
Quoted from zaphX:

Here's the video for the steigerpijp linkage-based mod in action:
https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B11JqstnBJF1jPF
Looking very forward to this being productized!

Honestly that doesn't look THAT violent, and the simplicity is something to be appreciated. I'd be willing to test this out on location to see how it holds up. Worst case, if it doesn't, there's a servo version...

#90 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballj:

Good job though on getting this working!!
I must say I like this too for the simplicity, but I like the open/close to be less drastic and slower (creepier?). I actually slowed down the servo a bit when it opens, and made it close a little faster on purpose.
Just a quick update on the servo version:
Testing over the weekend (Father's day) went great. The chest never locked up, it open a closed when you expected, no ball rejects, etc.
There is one minor change I am doing to the bracket (moving the micro switch just a little bit) and I think I can call that part finalized, which then I will get that uploaded.
I found a place that can make the metal brackets, and I am just waiting for a quote on what that will cost.
I will upload the plans, Bill of Materials, and a link to the source again when all is done.
Kit-wise: It will prob be a week or so before knowing what this will all cost. I will do a call-to-order when I have all of the info to share.
Last but not least, the spot right behind the treasure chest where I made a temporary cover in white in the video, I am working on a mount that will both hide the hinge better, and allow for the first mate of Davey Jones to guard the chest (using one of those 7" toys you use to replace Tortuga Tom):
https://pirates.fandom.com/wiki/Maccus

Hope you had a great Father’s Day! Please be assured that there are those of us out there that prefer an solution that is independent of the base game. I would rather have a reliable solution that is not putting any stress on that chest. The chest mech is only attached to the playfield by some pretty thin bits of bent metal.

Your solution allows us to deactivate the mod easily if a problem occurs. Or we choose to go back to base game behaviour.

It also does not affect the way the fork raises or closes in anyway. Be annoying to cause a problem with the fork mech down the track.

I do also like the idea of being able to control the speed the chest opens and closes.

One of the issues I have with the whole open and close thing is I might forget in a long game how many balls are locked. I guess this info might be on the map, but maybe the chest can open a little and close on a timer so you can glimpse at the balls? Could be a dumb idea. But the servo method could add some additional behaviour? Like it could sort of rattle the lid now and again as though the balls are trying to break free. Also could some light inside be piggy backed to this, like it beats red when the chest opens or partially opens? Similar to what harryhoudini has done.

Kudos to steigerpijp on reverse engineering what JJP originally had. Well done.

As I said my vote is with the servo option. Could we please continue with both. pinballj please post when you are done, this gives us the option of doing this ourselves if we want. Also for the plastic is it possible to dremmel the original plastic to alter, or just any piece of pvc? Lastly if someone wants to package up the servo idea, I remember tmezel offered they could help. They have manufactured servo mods successfully in the past.

#91 1 year ago

My thinking:

Servo: Motor will eventually give out, switch could fail. Two extra points of failure.
Linkage: Run off the coil which is electromagnetic and already firing anyway. Less to fail.

#92 1 year ago
Quoted from zaphX:

My thinking:
Servo: Motor will eventually give out, switch could fail. Two extra points of failure.
Linkage: Run off the coil which is electromagnetic and already firing anyway. Less to fail.

Except the brackets holding the chest on. There are definite downsides to both. But the fact that we have two potential ways to solve the issue is great!

#93 1 year ago
Quoted from zaphX:

My thinking:
Servo: Motor will eventually give out, switch could fail. Two extra points of failure.
Linkage: Run off the coil which is electromagnetic and already firing anyway. Less to fail.

Come on! My WCS94 motor has been running for 25 years!!! Outlive us old men!

At the end of the day both solutions are viable. I’m just encouraging the OP that their solution appeals to me and not to quit. Seems to be a lot of people now saying no this other way is better. I personally would not attach the other solution because I don’t want to harm the chest NOR the operation of the fork. We know the fork had alignment issues.

Please continue with both solutions!

#94 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballj:

Good job though on getting this working!!
I must say I like this too for the simplicity, but I like the open/close to be less drastic and slower (creepier?). I actually slowed down the servo a bit when it opens, and made it close a little faster on purpose.
Just a quick update on the servo version:
Testing over the weekend (Father's day) went great. The chest never locked up, it open a closed when you expected, no ball rejects, etc.
There is one minor change I am doing to the bracket (moving the micro switch just a little bit) and I think I can call that part finalized, which then I will get that uploaded.
I found a place that can make the metal brackets, and I am just waiting for a quote on what that will cost.
I will upload the plans, Bill of Materials, and a link to the source again when all is done.
Kit-wise: It will prob be a week or so before knowing what this will all cost. I will do a call-to-order when I have all of the info to share.
Last but not least, the spot right behind the treasure chest where I made a temporary cover in white in the video, I am working on a mount that will both hide the hinge better, and allow for the first mate of Davey Jones to guard the chest (using one of those 7" toys you use to replace Tortuga Tom):
https://pirates.fandom.com/wiki/Maccus

I agree!

#95 1 year ago

I don't think "balls locked" is an issue really because the number of balls in the chest does not always equate to the number locked. I was tossing around the idea of some lights on the front of the chest that used the optos to show you how many balls were in the chest. But seems overly complicated.

I too vote for the servo, but to each their own. After dealing with replacing the chest bracket and seeing just how flimsy it is and how easily it will shear again I would rather let something else die that I can easily replace and is cheap like a servo. Plus, I imagine the servo can do a lot more than just open close with the forks.

Has anyone thought about doing the forks method in the opposite direction? Use a radial spring on the hinge to keep the lid open and when the forks go down use a linkage to close the lid? Might be more work than the prototype method but seems like it could introduce a lot less stress into the whole thing.

#96 1 year ago

Excited about both of these options and great job guys!! Leaning servo personally for softer action. It's too bad we don't have the root reason why the mech was abandoned else I may be more inclined to go the simpler route; would be afraid of just re-creating the original problem.

#97 1 year ago

I really agree with all of the points being thrown out here, and it is great that someone figured out the original design too. I agree with zaphx too with the servo adding more complexity.

That being said, I just wonder why it was removed in the first place? Was it somehow causing damage to the lid maybe?
Eric mentioned some issues, just wonder what they all were. I do remember at the Louisville show, Keith and a couple others wired the chest open.

I just figured a servo is so cheap, $12 at amazon for the metal gear that I used:
amazon.com link »

That if the servo ever did go bad, I can easily order another...so the servo going bad is nbd to me.

But to each their own. I should have the final version to share in a couple days. It sounds like people will have choices for adding the mod back, which is awesome to me. Especially for this beautiful game. I am not trying to sell this, but seeing the chest open and close when a ball is ready to lock is so cool.

#98 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballj:

I really agree with all of the points being thrown out here, and it is great that someone figured out the original design too. I agree with zaphx too with the servo adding more complexity.
That being said, I just wonder why it was removed in the first place? Was it somehow causing damage to the lid maybe?
Eric mentioned some issues, just wonder what they all were. I do remember at the Louisville show, Keith and a couple others wired the chest open.

I just figured a servo is so cheap, $12 at amazon for the metal gear that I used:
amazon.com link »
That if the servo ever did go bad, I can easily order another...so the servo going bad is nbd to me.
But to each their own. I should have the final version to share in a couple days. It sounds like people will have choices for adding the mod back, which is awesome to me. Especially for this beautiful game. I am not trying to sell this, but seeing the chest open and close when a ball is ready to lock is so cool.

I don't think anyone would have a problem with you selling it. In fact I suggest you do and then take my money!

Great job can't wait to get this

#99 1 year ago

Please make this happen

#100 1 year ago
Quoted from vireland:

The sooner the better so we can all test them for JJP for the next 6 months in the real world and Eric can get his open/closing chest on the LE re-run once it's proven durable and JJP makes a deal with Pinballj for solving their engineering puzzle.

Lets just hope we get this mod mass produced and keep the re-run of the game separate as a concept.

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