(Topic ID: 244666)

JJPOTC Treasure Chest Open/Close mod, now working!

By pinballj

2 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 1,310 posts
  • 125 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 70 days ago by Butch2099
  • Topic is favorited by 92 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

View topic image gallery

IMG_2497 (resized).jpg
IMG_2495 (resized).jpg
IMG_2493 (resized).jpg
IMG_2489 (resized).jpg
IMG_2488 (resized).jpg
IMG_2487 (resized).jpg
IMG_2486 (resized).jpg
20210102_203349 (resized).jpg
20210102_202820 (resized).jpg
20210102_180550 (resized).jpg
20210102_180543 (resized).jpg
20210102_180533 (resized).jpg
20210102_180438 (resized).jpg
20201114_192923 (resized).jpg
20201114_192818 (resized).jpg
02C87E30-4BFA-435D-A3EF-31D168D3AB92 (resized).jpeg

Topic index (key posts)

4 key posts have been marked in this topic (Show topic index)

There are 1310 posts in this topic. You are on page 19 of 27.
#901 1 year ago
Quoted from Zora:

I enclose a picture, you see that my prototype was high level science, lol. Simply bend a cord at the lid hole and the hole in the moving servo arm, where normally the rod is fixed, no big Thing.
As Scott explains, the thickness of the lid plastic together with the benting of the metal rod at the top leads to a moving/turning side pressure of the rod when teh lid opens. You can feel that when you push the rod down with your hand when the rod is not fixed at the servo. Due to the fixing of the rod, the turning movement is transferred to the top, which leads to a rough opening movement of the lid. The other disadvantage is that there is permanent pressure on the servo and the arm.
A cord avoids this pressure on servo/arm. However, my "prototype" Installation does not move smoothly, which seems to be due to the movement of the metal stick during the opening process. I think the crucial point is how to realize a smooth travel of the cord in the lid plastic whole during the opening. My next approach would be to use a metal washer with a pearl on top (see picture), just an idea. Very easy to install and the pearl moving during the opening might lead to a smooth opening, I will see. But everybody can test as well or contribute other ideas in this regard.[quoted image][quoted image]

If you just use the rod as intended (the other way around), there's no pressure/problem. Use the screw-on clip that comes with these on the threaded end for the servo snap-on and a slide-on barrel at the lid end. No problems.

#902 1 year ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

If you just use the rod as intended (the other way around), there's no pressure/problem. Use the screw-on clip that comes with these on the threaded end for the servo snap-on and a slide-on barrel at the lid end. No problems.

I installed it as Scott described in the install video. Especially bend the top of the metal rod a bit to the direction of the hole. Thus I get pressure on the rod during the opening.

But that brings me to another idea. Possibly, when using the rod, it is better to use a pearl at the top instead of a flat Clip, so that the rod can move easier. Buit just my 2 cents. Everybody on his/her own.

#903 1 year ago
Quoted from Zora:

I installed it as Scott described in the install video. Especially bend the top of the metal rod a bit to the direction of the hole. Thus I get pressure on the rod during the opening.
But that brings me to another idea. Possibly, when using the rod, it is better to use a pearl at the top instead of a flat Clip, so that the rod can move easier. Buit just my 2 cents. Everybody on his/her own.

Here's the correct installation and orientation. Threads at the bottom by the servo to hold on to the clevis/clip that snaps onto the servo arm holes and then the barrel with the set screw at the top to hold the lid and because the barrel is rounded, there's no problems as it moves up and down on top of the chest lid tab.
chest-rod (resized).jpg

#904 1 year ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

Here's the correct installation and orientation. Threads at the bottom by the servo to hold on to the clevis/clip that snaps onto the servo arm holes and then the barrel with the set screw at the top to hold the lid and because the barrel is rounded, there's no problems as it moves up and down on top of the chest lid tab.
[quoted image]

Ok, good to know. As far as I remember, Scott used the barrel at the arm of the servo and replaces the clip by a nylon screw. But your installation order makes more sense, thanks a lot!

#905 1 year ago

Changing the orientation or connection method doesn't change the fact that the rod needs to go through the hole in the lid and it needs to be bent to get oriented to the angle which the lid needs to open to. Your lid is probably thinner than the ones we produced so that isn't an issue as much.

The way to overcome this is with a ball joint, which I have on order from Amazon. It would take some slight modification to the lid but it would remove all possibility of binding. I'll let you know how it turns out.

#906 1 year ago

Just curious, does the clear plastic stay on above the coil once the mod is complete?

I was thinking something could be made to replace it with a simple decal image of maybe Davey Jones on it to cover the coil? Or maybe if large enough some of his crew too?

#907 1 year ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Your lid is probably thinner than the ones we produced

You made some?

#908 1 year ago

Where can I get one of these chest mods?

#909 1 year ago
Quoted from Psw757:

Just curious, does the clear plastic stay on above the coil once the mod is complete?
I was thinking something could be made to replace it with a simple decal image of maybe Davey Jones on it to cover the coil? Or maybe if large enough some of his crew too?

Yeah, because you don’t want to take a chance a stray Dauntless shot is gonna get itself hung up on that coil.

#910 1 year ago
Quoted from gunstarhero:

Yeah, because you don’t want to take a chance a stray Dauntless shot is gonna get itself hung up on that coil.

Maybe instead of plastic crates etc... to spruce it up, some sort of plastic that some nice character decals can go on. Either Davey Himself would look good or some of his crew like the hammerhead guy etc...

Just trying to help come up with a design that brings some of the movie to the chest area rather than more square plastic stuff. Lol

#912 1 year ago
Quoted from Psw757:

Just curious, does the clear plastic stay on above the coil once the mod is complete?
I was thinking something could be made to replace it with a simple decal image of maybe Davey Jones on it to cover the coil? Or maybe if large enough some of his crew too?

I've been posting about a few pages back. We're working on a cover to replace that and hide the area.

#913 1 year ago
Quoted from Psw757:

Maybe instead of plastic crates etc... to spruce it up, some sort of plastic that some nice character decals can go on. Either Davey Himself would look good or some of his crew like the hammerhead guy etc...
Just trying to help come up with a design that brings some of the movie to the chest area rather than more square plastic stuff. Lol

Like a 2d vertical piece of plastic with a decal on it?

I think I'd rather go like the "beach scene" with some treasure and palm trees. Doesn't that jive with the treasure chest?

#914 1 year ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Like a 2d vertical piece of plastic with a decal on it?
I think I'd rather go like the "beach scene" with some treasure and palm trees. Doesn't that jive with the treasure chest?

Bingo, a 2d/3D plastic maybe a horizontal and a vertical depending on how much you trying to cover with any kind of decal that ties the movies in.

I think it could look better than more brown/black plastic.

Just a thought......

#915 1 year ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Like a 2d vertical piece of plastic with a decal on it?
I think I'd rather go like the "beach scene" with some treasure and palm trees. Doesn't that jive with the treasure chest?

Thing about the chest is that it never was a treasure chest in any of the movies.

Only held Jones’s heart.

#916 1 year ago
Quoted from Psw757:

Thing about the chest is that it never was a treasure chest in any of the movies.
Only held Jones’s heart.

Yeah, that was sort of a tie in to the ride I guess. I think the treasure could still sort of work because it is behind the chest, not in it. But all of these options could just be toppers on the box.

I'm not a huge fan of flat decal'ed plastic, I think it looks sorta lame. Like how the cheaper DeadPool comes with plastic instead of actual toys. The "base" box that I showed could just be flat black and probably not noticed to keep it hidden. Or I can try the "beach" option and see what we can do. Otherwise, if you have some actual artwork suggestions for the standup maybe post those so we could see. I can make a printable version but I don't really have any ideas for what it should contain.

I suppose a row boat might not be out of the question.

#917 1 year ago

Stern POTC has treasure and heart in the chest.

I guess the chest comes out of a crate? Maybe that crate?
https://wall.alphacoders.com/big.php?i=641086

#918 1 year ago

Need a little help, got it all installed.

When I power the game on the chest opens and closes as I would want, have good fit and alignment however when I test in game play by hitting the two shots the chest does not open and when a ball is fired into the chest, nothing either.

Any Ideas?

#919 1 year ago
Quoted from Psw757:

Need a little help, got it all installed.
When I power the game on the chest opens and closes as I would want, have good fit and alignment however when I test in game play by hitting the two shots the chest does not open and when a ball is fired into the chest, nothing either.
Any Ideas?

Check limit switch adjustment. When forks move, switch should change state.

#920 1 year ago
Quoted from Psw757:

Need a little help, got it all installed.
When I power the game on the chest opens and closes as I would want, have good fit and alignment however when I test in game play by hitting the two shots the chest does not open and when a ball is fired into the chest, nothing either.
Any Ideas?

Your switch arm needs to be bent out more. It's not making enough contact with the fork mech rollers to open and close.

#921 1 year ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

Your switch arm needs to be bent out more. It's not making enough contact with the fork mech rollers to open and close.

I’ll have to take a look at that, had me scratching my head because when I power the game on its friggin perfection, lol

#922 1 year ago
Quoted from Psw757:

I’ll have to take a look at that, had me scratching my head because when I power the game on its friggin perfection, lol

That's the initialization routine from the board getting power. It doesn't require switch input.

#923 1 year ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

Your switch arm needs to be bent out more. It's not making enough contact with the fork mech rollers to open and close.

I think you've posted this exact reply like 5 or more times now

#924 1 year ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

I think you've posted this exact reply like 5 or more times now

RIF, man, RIF.

I'd keypost it if I could, but I found out that people get upset when I keypost my own help posts, so I don't do it anymore.

#925 1 year ago
Quoted from Psw757:

Need a little help, got it all installed.
When I power the game on the chest opens and closes as I would want, have good fit and alignment however when I test in game play by hitting the two shots the chest does not open and when a ball is fired into the chest, nothing either.
Any Ideas?

Your switch arm needs to be bent out more. It's not making enough contact with the fork mech rollers to open and close.

Put the forks up manually so they're out of the way and manually manipulate the switch. Do you hear a "click" when the arm's depressed? If you do, does the chest move?

If you're hearing the clicks and the chest still isn't moving, the switch may be bad or a wire is loose from the switch to the Arduino.

The Arduino will actuate the chest when it is first powered on. After that the little white nylon bushing needs to actuate the switch far enough that it clicks. It needs to be depressed for .5 seconds for the movement to take place.

pasted_image (resized).png
#926 1 year ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

RIF, man, RIF.
I'd keypost it if I could, but I found out that people get upset when I keypost my own help posts, so I don't do it anymore.

Post #925.

#927 1 year ago

Also explain why it works when you power on but not any other time, and I'll keypost that post 925. (The politics of pinside that make something like this necessary are often ridiculous)

#928 1 year ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Your switch arm needs to be bent out more. It's not making enough contact with the fork mech rollers to open and close.

Just looked, switch definitely closed when forks up. Anything else it could be? It’s obviously not binding in power up because it looks perfect.

#929 1 year ago
Quoted from Psw757:

Just looked, switch definitely closed when forks up. Anything else it could be? It’s obviously not binding in power up because it looks perfect.

Put the forks up manually so they're out of the way and manually manipulate the switch. Do you hear a "click" when the arm's depressed? If you do, does the chest move?

If you're hearing the clicks and the chest still isn't moving, the switch may be bad or a wire is loose from the switch to the servo.

#930 1 year ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

Put the forks up manually so they're out of the way and manually manipulate the switch. Do you hear a "click" when the arm's depressed? If you do, does the chest move?
If you're hearing the clicks and the chest still isn't moving, the switch may be bad or a wire is loose from the switch to the servo.

The forks are operating properly when targets are hit and time to load a ball.

This tells me switch is fine, correct?

#931 1 year ago
Quoted from Psw757:

The forks are operating properly when targets are hit and time to load a ball.
This tells me switch is fine, correct?

Wrong switch. I'm talking about the switch on the assembly you just added. It has nothing to do with the switches that tell the forks to move that are part of the machine already.

assembly-switch-potc (resized).jpg
#932 1 year ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

Wrong switch. I'm talking about the switch on the assembly you just added. It has nothing to do with the switches that tell the forks to move that are part of the machine already.

Shit...I’ve been f’ing with the wrong switch!

So that lower switch i just added needs better contact with rollers, correct?

Idiot just add beer and I did do that!

#933 1 year ago
Quoted from Psw757:

Shit...I’ve been f’ing with the wrong switch!
So that lower switch i just added needs better contact with rollers, correct?
Idiot just add beer and I did do that!

Yeah, just bend the arm out so it is triggered when the forks come down and released when they rise.

#934 1 year ago

Problem found

Looks like half the leaf is out of the switch. Hanging on by a thread.

I can see one of the tabs.

#935 1 year ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

Also explain why it works when you power on but not any other time, and I'll keypost that post 925. (The politics of pinside that make something like this necessary are often ridiculous)

Done

#936 1 year ago

Just put that sob back in

Drum roll please!

#937 1 year ago

No luck

The lower switch doesn’t come anywhere near my rollers.

#938 1 year ago
Quoted from Psw757:

No luck
The lower switch doesn’t come anywhere near my rollers.

Pic? Do you have the bracket installed right? The white roller/bushings should come right down and hit the switch.

Also, did you actuate the switch and did the servo move?

#939 1 year ago

I have a suspicion and if true I really can’t believe this.

How many rollers are on the right side?

#940 1 year ago

I guess it helps to have a sense of humor with this stuff.

I only had one nylon roller on right side, the top one obviously.

Just cut a nylon stand-off I had from another machine and screwed it in and the chest now works, sort of.

So when games starts chest is open, should be closed until ready to load correct?

#941 1 year ago

Just ordered. Now all I need is the game.

#942 1 year ago

Finally got it, the servo powered on position needed adjustment.

#943 1 year ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

I think you've posted this exact reply like 5 or more times now

Worked in my case! : )

#944 1 year ago
Quoted from Psw757:

So when games starts chest is open, should be closed until ready to load correct?

Mine stays closed until it tells me to lock a ball. I'm hoping this is right? Once I lock a ball it closes again.

#946 1 year ago
Quoted from MurphyPeoples:

Mine stays closed until it tells me to lock a ball. I'm hoping this is right? Once I lock a ball it closes again.

That is correct. It matches the action of the chest on the screen.

#947 1 year ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

That is correct. It matches the action of the chest on the screen.

The motion of the chest is slightly ahead of the animation on the display correct?

#948 1 year ago
Quoted from Psw757:

The motion of the chest is slightly ahead of the animation on the display correct?

Dunno. I don't have the one you have. But I can't imagine it's perfectly synced.

#949 1 year ago
Quoted from Psw757:

The motion of the chest is slightly ahead of the animation on the display correct?

If you have the lighting mod there are settings you can choose for the chest speed. Bottom right button. Not sure how close they match the animation but there are 5 options

#950 1 year ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

If you have the lighting mod there are settings you can choose for the chest speed. Bottom right button. Not sure how close they match the animation but there are 5 options

Don’t have the lighting mod.

I like the speed that it actuates open slowly and closes slightly faster, just noticed the whole operation appears to be slightly ahead of the video. Not a big deal, just an observation.

There are 1310 posts in this topic. You are on page 19 of 27.

Hey there! Got a moment?

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run thanks to donations from our visitors? Please donate to Pinside, support the site and get anext to your username to show for it! Donate to Pinside