(Topic ID: 244666)

JJPOTC Treasure Chest Open/Close mod, now working!


By pinballj

3 months ago



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#851 7 days ago

Hey guys I’m working on the install now.

We had it working but the servo motion is really steppy, not smooth at all. I thought maybe we had too much drag on it but it does the same thing with the rod totally removed and no load at all.

Any thoughts?

#852 7 days ago
Quoted from gunstarhero:

Hey guys I’m working on the install now.
We had it working but the servo motion is really steppy, not smooth at all. I thought maybe we had too much drag on it but it does the same thing with the rod totally removed and no load at all.
Any thoughts?

You're probably just sensitive to the motion being done incrementally (or the servo's bad). Aside from doing it as a straight one command motion there's no way to get rid of the steppiness.

Do you have a short video of the motion?

#853 7 days ago
Quoted from vireland:

You're probably just sensitive to the motion being done incrementally (or the servo's bad). Aside from doing it as a straight one command motion there's no way to get rid of the steppiness.
Do you have a short video of the motion?

After doing a little research I think we decided that it’s probably just the way the motion is programmed. We have put several games on it now and it seems to be fine, so there you go. Thanks vireland!

Great mod harryhoudini!

#854 7 days ago
Quoted from MurphyPeoples:

PinMonk to the rescue!!! This is exactly what was happening. The Mod switch wasn't fully closing with the forks in the down position. I simply tweaked the switch slightly and violá!
Working during game play now. Simply have to due some fine adjustments to get her to close and open perfectly. : ) - Murphy

Gotta love that guy

Glad that did it! I was confused when you said the light was working, because the light is triggered by the switch as well.

#855 7 days ago
Quoted from gunstarhero:

Hey guys I’m working on the install now.
We had it working but the servo motion is really steppy, not smooth at all. I thought maybe we had too much drag on it but it does the same thing with the rod totally removed and no load at all.
Any thoughts?

Do you have the lighting mod? If so, one of the buttons (bottom right) sets the chest speed. There are 5 options.

Alternatively, either the servo could be wonky (not unheard of with these) or possibly, if you don't have the light mod, your speed was somehow defaulted to another speed. The slower ones are a bit jerky but the default one should be smooth. If you can take a quick video maybe we can confirm. I can always send out another servo if that seems to be the issue. Either way should not be jerky really.

#856 7 days ago
Quoted from BC_Gambit:

I did this install last weekend; I wasn't timing myself but I swear it took close to five hours.
1 hour of that was performing the code update, most of which was installing the different bits and following the instructions and learning how to use the software. Plus my computer is super old so even the software install took a bit longer than it may for you.
The next day I tackled the mod. I did not know there was a lid removal video so I figured that out myself. I also watched the other install videos as I did the work, so I included that in the time above.
My chest mod also had to go on the opposite arm that was pictured, which did cost me a decent amount of time as I went back and forth trying to figure out what I had missed, and eventually just went with what worked. I also spent a decent amount of time making sure wires were not going to get pinched by the rod or the other parts of the mod. I spent a decent amount of time bending the rod "just right".
Also, getting the rod at just the right height took a while as indicted by everybody else. I had it perfect "on the wrong side", then moved it to the other side and had to do some re-bends, and it was binding or something at a few points where the lid would move as usual, and then retract a bit due to pressure(?) felt by the mechanism.
Anyways with some persistence it worked great.
AND it survived a tournament we had yesterday, so after 75 or so plays it has held up well (knock on wood).
I think my last unresolved Pirates issue is "taming the slings". I am still getting sling escapes on the left sling during intense multiballs....

Ugh, sorry for those issues. I am going to re-edit that video and add in the lid removal and the correct rod placement. Glad it's working and you got some good testing on it for us!

The sling issue, are you using stock posts? Make sure you turn them way down, seems like even on the lowest setting they are more than strong enough. If you added washers you should be using double star posts with the rubber on the lower rung. Lastly, if you still need to change the geometry you can adjust the sling coil travel. I've never done it, but I think in the main POTC or troublehsooting thread LTG posted about dropping a nut down there somewhere to prevent so much travel? I am not 100% on this but I know others (maybe zaphx) had this issue and solved it with some geometry adjustments.

#857 7 days ago

Here's the chest mech cover. The left side sort of has a "crate" finish and the right is just flat right now. It needs a bit more modification to fit perfectly and we'll have to do something about the coil tabs. My coil isn't installed in this photo so it sits right down on the bracket. Of course it would likely be a much darker color, probably similar to the barrels we are making. I think a good solution for the coil tabs is just to put the "treasure" on top of there so the tabs have a place to sit. Also worried about the chest lid tab lining up on all of the lids. I think you can't see the cover so much where the cutout is so we could make it large enough. Not sure the scoop gate clears it either, more testing to do. Any thoughts?

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#858 7 days ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Here's the chest mech cover. The left side sort of has a "crate" finish and the right is just flat right now. It needs a bit more modification to fit perfectly and we'll have to do something about the coil tabs. My coil isn't installed in this photo so it sits right down on the bracket. Of course it would likely be a much darker color, probably similar to the barrels we are making. I think a good solution for the coil tabs is just to put the "treasure" on top of there so the tabs have a place to sit. Also worried about the chest lid tab lining up on all of the lids. I think you can't see the cover so much where the cutout is so we could make it large enough. Not sure the scoop gate clears it either, more testing to do. Any thoughts?[quoted image][quoted image]

Angle both surfaces slightly to the outside on each side or it's a natural ball trap for airballs or missed canon shots.

#859 7 days ago
Quoted from vireland:

Angle both surfaces slightly to the outside on each side or it's a natural ball trap for airballs or missed canon shots.

Ah smart. The loot pile should provide that kind of angle to most of it but will make sure it all sheds away.

#860 6 days ago

You think there is enough room there for a small diorama of the island where they are running around with the chest? Some greenery and palm trees perhaps?

#861 6 days ago

Installed the chest mod over the weekend, but ran into a problem. Once installed and powered. the mod does not move.

I removed it from the game and did a bench test with a 5V power supply and it works fine. Did a voltage check on the plug on the game and read 4.65V. With the mod on the bench power supply, I turned the voltage down to 4.65V and the mod does not move. Further testing shows a threshold of about 4.75 volts which must be met for the mod to move.

Is this a hardware limitation of the mod?

I have a tentative plan to install a 5V buck/boost regulator on the mod input, but am wondering if anyone else has seen this problem or has any other suggestions to fix.

#862 6 days ago
Quoted from JimWilks:

Installed the chest mod over the weekend, but ran into a problem. Once installed and powered. the mod does not move.
I removed it from the game and did a bench test with a 5V power supply and it works fine. Did a voltage check on the plug on the game and read 4.65V. With the mod on the bench power supply, I turned the voltage down to 4.65V and the mod does not move. Further testing shows a threshold of about 4.75 volts which must be met for the mod to move.
Is this a hardware limitation of the mod?
I have a tentative plan to install a 5V buck/boost regulator on the mod input, but am wondering if anyone else has seen this problem or has any other suggestions to fix.

Most likely the switch arm not bent out enough for the fork assembly to trigger it. Put the forks up and manually click the switch and see if the servo works.

Might also be the power connection to the fake nano board. Does the light come on on the circuit board?

#863 6 days ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Ah smart. The loot pile should provide that kind of angle to most of it but will make sure it all sheds away.

I'd be happy with something that fades into the background, like the starfield. Maybe a darker color will do the trick. What's up with the chest lid, it looks broken?

#864 6 days ago
Quoted from vireland:

Most likely the switch arm not bent out enough for the fork assembly to trigger it. Put the forks up and manually click the switch and see if the servo works.
Might also be the power connection to the fake nano board. Does the light come on on the circuit board?

The problem is no operation at 4.65V which is what my game delivers. Switch and power connections are fine.

#865 6 days ago
Quoted from JimWilks:

The problem is no operation at 4.65V which is what my game delivers. Switch and power connections are fine.

Strange. I'll check my voltage, but that is coming from the PC power supply so it should be fairly consistent.

Quoted from Psw757:

You think there is enough room there for a small diorama of the island where they are running around with the chest? Some greenery and palm trees perhaps?

Eeeh... sounds complicated

Quoted from dts:

I'd be happy with something that fades into the background, like the starfield. Maybe a darker color will do the trick. What's up with the chest lid, it looks broken?

Yeah, the darker crate might be the best option for that. A smaller crate on top of the crate will give room for the tabs. We could offer both options, loot and crate.

My chest isn't installed... nor are most of the parts on my game, lol. I was trying to get it put back together this weekend but was focused too much on mods. I'd like to play it again soon

#866 6 days ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Strange. I'll check my voltage, but that is coming from the PC power supply so it should be fairly consistent.

Eeeh... sounds complicated

Yeah, the darker crate might be the best option for that. A smaller crate on top of the crate will give room for the tabs. We could offer both options, loot and crate.
My chest isn't installed... nor are most of the parts on my game, lol. I was trying to get it put back together this weekend but was focused too much on mods. I'd like to play it again soon

Was just trying to come up with an idea from the movies that is tied to the chest.

Only issue I have with crates and barrels at this point is if you happen to have the dauntless mod the are already plenty of that sort of thing inches from the chest.

I’m still thinking.....

#867 6 days ago
Quoted from JimWilks:

The problem is no operation at 4.65V which is what my game delivers. Switch and power connections are fine.

Is the light on the circuit board on (should still be able to see it through the shrink)? Because if it isn't, you have no power at the board.

#868 6 days ago

I'm seeing about the same at all 5v plugs I tested in the game. The Arduino specs say it needs more but so far everyone has seemed to have no problem. There are options... one would be tying in to the 12v line which might be closest at the map disc motor, if not possible then going to the coin door or backbox would be the next option. Arduino can take up to 12v so that certainly could work, although you shouldn't need to based on the historical evidence of no one else having an issue.

Quoted from Psw757:

Was just trying to come up with an idea from the movies that is tied to the chest.
Only issue I have with crates and barrels at this point is if you happen to have the dauntless mod the are already plenty of that sort of thing inches from the chest.
I’m still thinking.....

The crate could be dark, dark brown to keep it mostly hidden. In fact, from the player view not much of it is visible really. The only thing that will change is some "bump" to cover the tabs.

#869 6 days ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

I'm seeing about the same at all 5v plugs I tested in the game. The Arduino specs say it needs more but so far everyone has seemed to have no problem. There are options... one would be tying in to the 12v line which might be closest at the map disc motor, if not possible then going to the coin door or backbox would be the next option. Arduino can take up to 12v so that certainly could work, although you shouldn't need to based on the historical evidence of no one else having an issue.

The Arduino can take 12V. What about the servo?

#870 6 days ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Like vireland said you could do it without removing, I wasn't able to get my socket in there so I did the coil removal part.
The optos are 3 black tabs starting just in front of that coil (along the back of the actual chest). If they do come out of place you'll know it. The game will continually try to kick out a ball from the chest (because the opto switch isn't closed). You could probably see it dangling there too. Sometimes you can pop it back in to place, they are pressure fit clips. If the clip breaks or it won't stay, a dab of hot glue gives you a pretty good fix. Probably better than the original. Breaking the entire opto would be pretty difficult, I've messed with mine a TON and while I've had tabs break (I had to replace my chest bracket, relocating all 6 optos) gluing them back on was a good fix and they all work fine.

I did not even realize they were there, I think. I did not remove them, nor have any problems with the optos. Perhaps I was just lucky.

#871 6 days ago
Quoted from JimWilks:

The Arduino can take 12V. What about the servo?

The servo maxes out at 6.5v, if I remember correctly. Giving it max 6.5v power will make it move quicker, but I don't think Arduino Nano (and knockoffs) can regulate down from 12v to a specific voltage.

#872 6 days ago

Ah good point, the lighting and the servo would need to be supplied with lower voltage from a buck board. Still not sure why every other one seems to work.

#873 6 days ago
Quoted from JimWilks:

The problem is no operation at 4.65V which is what my game delivers. Switch and power connections are fine.

That's why I prefer to work with an extra power supply for my mods.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jjpotc-treasure-chest-open-and-close/page/7#post-5075172

#874 6 days ago

There's a completely unused ATX-style 5v connector in the head that's perfect for this.

#875 6 days ago
Quoted from vireland:

There's a completely unused ATX-style 5v connector in the head that's perfect for this.

But he belongs to JJP Hardware, I prefer to be independent and isolated from the others.

I also use the power supply for other things, like the backbox lighting.

Maybe I'm too careful .

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#876 6 days ago
Quoted from Agima2000:

But he belongs to JJP Hardware, I prefer to be independent and isolated from the others.
I also use the power supply for other things, like the backbox lighting.
Maybe I'm too careful .[quoted image]

So you're plugging your alternate power into the wall outside the machine?

Also the 5v free plug is not shared with anything else, coming straight from the power supply, so it's regulated. Double plus.

#877 6 days ago
Quoted from vireland:

So you're plugging your alternate power into the wall outside the machine?
Also the 5v free plug is not shared with anything else, coming straight from the power supply, so it's regulated. Double plus.

The power supply is connected to the switch of the flipper, no extra plug outside.
Not only do I need 5 volts for the chests mod, but also 12 volts for the backlight, and 5 volts for a time relay (STARTUP "POP" ELIMINATOR) replica of Scott.

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#878 5 days ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Strange. I'll check my voltage, but that is coming from the PC power supply so it should be fairly consistent.

Given that I seem to be the only one with this problem and 50+ other (successful) installs of this mod I think my problem is one of:

A) My game has an abnormal 5V level at 4.65V

B) I have an abnormally sensitive (to turn on voltage) Arduino Nano

A lack of other games and a lack of additional Arduinos make both of these difficult for me to confirm. Perhaps other owners can measure theirs?

In any event, I need to get this mod working. I've ordered the the following which should do the job:

https://www.robotshop.com/en/5v-step-up-voltage-regulator-u3v12f5.html

#879 5 days ago
Quoted from Agima2000:

The power supply is connected to the switch of the flipper, no extra plug outside.
Not only do I need 5 volts for the chests mod, but also 12 volts for the backlight, and 5 volts for a time relay (STARTUP "POP" ELIMINATOR) replica of Scott.[quoted image]

You likely don't need 2x 5v leads, but just one if you have enough amps being fed for what you're pulling on the 5v line. So one 5v and one 12v would do it, which basically means 1 atx connector which has both.

#880 5 days ago
Quoted from vireland:

There's a completely unused ATX-style 5v connector in the head that's perfect for this.

I suppose, if anyone is looking for a solution that moves the power for this, or other mods we have, to this connector with a buck board for 6v needs I could supply that. I have a bunch of buck boards here for other mods which use them. I could provide the passthrough cable from the head to the playfield and the buck board along with splitters if needed.

jimwilks let me know if you need anything. I'm interested now to see how that works out for you.

#881 5 days ago

I received my trunk mod. Question for those that installed it already: Would it be easier to install this with the playfield out of the machine? (service rails setting on saw horses) I'm guessing that removing the trunk lid might be the only thing easier. I have a bunch of other mods to install including ModCouple stuff, Pinball Mod Co stuff, cliffys, side blades mylar in the starfield area, etc. and will remove the playfield to make most of this easier. Since I'm doing that anyway, I'm looking for the easiest way to do it.

#882 5 days ago
Quoted from KingBW:

I received my trunk mod. Question for those that installed it already: Would it be easier to install this with the playfield out of the machine? (service rails setting on saw horses) I'm guessing that removing the trunk lid might be the only thing easier. I have a bunch of other mods to install including ModCouple stuff, Pinball Mod Co stuff, cliffys, side blades mylar in the starfield area, etc. and will remove the playfield to make most of this easier. Since I'm doing that anyway, I'm looking for the easiest way to do it.

No. It was fine in the machine. I wouldn’t take it out.

#883 5 days ago
Quoted from KingBW:

I received my trunk mod. Question for those that installed it already: Would it be easier to install this with the playfield out of the machine? (service rails setting on saw horses) I'm guessing that removing the trunk lid might be the only thing easier. I have a bunch of other mods to install including ModCouple stuff, Pinball Mod Co stuff, cliffys, side blades mylar in the starfield area, etc. and will remove the playfield to make most of this easier. Since I'm doing that anyway, I'm looking for the easiest way to do it.

The only thing you mention that would be easier with the playfield out are the side art blades. Do yourself a favor and put a stool or something in front of the machine that is about that height (and wide enough to support the playfield supports) and slide the playfield out as far as you can (with the cables attached). Have someone help. It's stable if you have a good platform to set it on. The back half still sits on the machine. It will come out far enough that you can put the side art on without having to try and get around the playfield. I ruined mine trying to follow those instructions. WOZ I did this way and it was 1000 times easier. And cut them apart if they are on one sheet. And apply by placing them in position, tape them in place with blue painters tape and then peel only a small amount of backing off, starting at the front. Squeegy it on slowly, aligning for fine tuning and getting all bubbles out. A hair dryer will help smooth out any wrinkles or such.

Everything else you mentioned could/should be done in the game, no reason not to and you have to get under the playfield so unless you have a rotisserie it's not even worth contemplating.

#884 5 days ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

The only thing you mention that would be easier with the playfield out are the side art blades. Do yourself a favor and put a stool or something in front of the machine that is about that height (and wide enough to support the playfield supports) and slide the playfield out as far as you can (with the cables attached). Have someone help. It's stable if you have a good platform to set it on. The back half still sits on the machine. It will come out far enough that you can put the side art on without having to try and get around the playfield. I ruined mine trying to follow those instructions. WOZ I did this way and it was 1000 times easier. And cut them apart if they are on one sheet. And apply by placing them in position, tape them in place with blue painters tape and then peel only a small amount of backing off, starting at the front. Squeegy it on slowly, aligning for fine tuning and getting all bubbles out. A hair dryer will help smooth out any wrinkles or such.
Everything else you mentioned could/should be done in the game, no reason not to and you have to get under the playfield so unless you have a rotisserie it's not even worth contemplating.

Playfield-in side art blade installation is a snap with the wet method. The only way to do it. Like 10-15 minutes total to do both sides.

#885 5 days ago
Quoted from vireland:

Playfield-in side art blade installation is a snap with the wet method. The only way to do it. Like 10-15 minutes total to do both sides.

I agree. Used the wet method and it was no problem getting them into that tight space. 10 mins max

#886 5 days ago
Quoted from Heater:

I agree. Used the wet method and it was no problem getting them into that tight space. 10 mins max

I've done probably 10 machines' art blades that way and would not ever recommend doing it any other way. Makes it so simple, and no help required.

#887 5 days ago

I cringe when water has to be sprayed around wood and electronics but that is probably easier. The instructions made it sound like if you wrapped it around the playfield there would be no problem but the clearance on JJP games is so narrow that it inevitably sticks and you're screwed.

#888 5 days ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

I cringe when water has to be sprayed around wood and electronics but that is probably easier. The instructions made it sound like if you wrapped it around the playfield there would be no problem but the clearance on JJP games is so narrow that it inevitably sticks and you're screwed.

You're not spraying water anywhere near the electronics. You spray the soapy water on the blade on a table or the floor NOT at the machine, then take the blade to the machine and put it on and have a paper towel ready to wipe the excess water that comes out when you squeegee the blade to get out air once you have it positioned perfectly (which is VERY easy with wet soapy backing).

#889 5 days ago
Quoted from vireland:

You're not spraying water anywhere near the electronics. You spray the soapy water on the blade on a table or the floor NOT at the machine, then take the blade to the machine and put it on and have a paper towel ready to wipe the excess water that comes out when you squeegee the blade to get out air once you have it positioned perfectly (which is VERY easy with wet soapy backing).

OOOOH, glad people are smarter than me

Guess I'll get another set and have another go. The one thing that is preventing me is that these are already getting busted up by the playfield. I even installed velvety felt on the side of the playfield. I don't really want to install those $30 plastic protectors every time I want to raise the playfield. I have a design for, what I think is a better protector, and made a prototype but haven't found anyone to mass produce them. Even contacted the bent plastic guy but he was slow to non-responsive. Might just end up bending them myself but they need some assembly for the design I had in mind. I was adding on some features that would make them more than just inner cabinet protection. I think they would just end up costing too much for most people but I'll post about it and see.

#890 5 days ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

OOOOH, glad people are smarter than me
Guess I'll get another set and have another go. The one thing that is preventing me is that these are already getting busted up by the playfield. I even installed velvety felt on the side of the playfield. I don't really want to install those $30 plastic protectors every time I want to raise the playfield. I have a design for, what I think is a better protector, and made a prototype but haven't found anyone to mass produce them. Even contacted the bent plastic guy but he was slow to non-responsive. Might just end up bending them myself but they need some assembly for the design I had in mind. I was adding on some features that would make them more than just inner cabinet protection. I think they would just end up costing too much for most people but I'll post about it and see.

The Stern official art blades are very good arcade console-type vinyl. Are the PotC blades that are getting chewed up thin paper-ish ones like AP did on Houdini? Those are the worst ones I've ever seen.

#891 4 days ago

Just installed Davy Jones heart. The stock led is behind it (I de installed the led and turned it to the front), so it is blinking when the chest lock is on. Working on the green chest lighting and a red heart beating.

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#892 4 days ago

I am experimenting a bit with the connection between lid and servo. The metal rod is very stiff and due to the tweeking of the rod at the top it seems that there is a little turning pressure at the servo connection. I tried a cord (nylon cord might be good as well), and it works quite well. There is no obstacle, the cord moves without touching cables or playfield.

#893 4 days ago
Quoted from Zora:

I am experimenting a bit with the connection between lid and servo. The metal rod is very stiff and due to the tweeking of the rod at the top it seems that there is a little turning pressure at the servo connection. I tried a cord (nylon cord might be good as well), and it works quite well. There is no obstacle, the cord moves without touching cables or playfield.

Any pics? Sounds like a good idea.

#894 4 days ago
Quoted from Zora:

I am experimenting a bit with the connection between lid and servo. The metal rod is very stiff and due to the tweeking of the rod at the top it seems that there is a little turning pressure at the servo connection. I tried a cord (nylon cord might be good as well), and it works quite well. There is no obstacle, the cord moves without touching cables or playfield.

HA, that's smart! I am guessing that pressure is due to the way the rod goes through the lid hole. If the rod is bent forward at like 3-5 degrees then when it pulls down and the lid tips it will slide through the hole without binding up. At least that is my experience. But yeah, some steel wire or nylon cord probably does pretty well.

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#895 4 days ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

HA, that's smart! I am guessing that pressure is due to the way the rod goes through the lid hole. If the rod is bent forward at like 3-5 degrees then when it pulls down and the lid tips it will slide through the hole without binding up. At least that is my experience. But yeah, some steel wire or nylon cord probably does pretty well.[quoted image]

What did JJPinball used?

#896 4 days ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

What did JJPinball used?

That is my bad... I am updating that when I can, but it's pinballj. I'm slightly dyslexic. Now it affects the URL's, lol.. so I have to fix that with the new website that I'm putting up soon.

He used the same rod, our mod is basically what he designed. His lid was thinner so I think it was less of an issue. Once you kink the rod it sort of becomes obvious that it should be kinked because it sort of orients itself in the hole, if you see what I mean. I can do a quick video of the bending process I used if that would help.

#897 4 days ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

That is my bad... I am updating that when I can, but it's pinballj. I'm slightly dyslexic. Now it affects the URL's, lol.. so I have to fix that with the new website that I'm putting up soon.
He used the same rod, our mod is basically what he designed. His lid was thinner so I think it was less of an issue. Once you kink the rod it sort of becomes obvious that it should be kinked because it sort of orients itself in the hole, if you see what I mean. I can do a quick video of the bending process I used if that would help.

Is there a step by step or video for reprogramming the computer? I’ve been using mine on original code because it was so awesome I couldn’t wait. Then I forgot it needed to be done.

#898 4 days ago
Quoted from paynemic:

Is there a step by step or video for reprogramming the computer? I’ve been using mine on original code because it was so awesome I couldn’t wait. Then I forgot it needed to be done.

Heck ya Also happy to program them if you send the controller back.

https://magicalproductions.miiduu.com/jpinballs-actuated-chest-mod-update-instructions

#899 4 days ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

That is my bad... I am updating that when I can, but it's pinballj. I'm slightly dyslexic. Now it affects the URL's, lol.. so I have to fix that with the new website that I'm putting up soon.
He used the same rod, our mod is basically what he designed. His lid was thinner so I think it was less of an issue. Once you kink the rod it sort of becomes obvious that it should be kinked because it sort of orients itself in the hole, if you see what I mean. I can do a quick video of the bending process I used if that would help.

It’s actually my bad! I knew there was a J somewhere. My apologies

#900 4 days ago
Quoted from VillaThrills:

Any pics? Sounds like a good idea.

I enclose a picture, you see that my prototype was high level science, lol. Simply bend a cord at the lid hole and the hole in the moving servo arm, where normally the rod is fixed, no big Thing.

As Scott explains, the thickness of the lid plastic together with the benting of the metal rod at the top leads to a moving/turning side pressure of the rod when teh lid opens. You can feel that when you push the rod down with your hand when the rod is not fixed at the servo. Due to the fixing of the rod, the turning movement is transferred to the top, which leads to a rough opening movement of the lid. The other disadvantage is that there is permanent pressure on the servo and the arm.

A cord avoids this pressure on servo/arm. However, my "prototype" Installation does not move smoothly, which seems to be due to the movement of the metal stick during the opening process. I think the crucial point is how to realize a smooth travel of the cord in the lid plastic whole during the opening. My next approach would be to use a metal washer with a pearl on top (see picture), just an idea. Very easy to install and the pearl moving during the opening might lead to a smooth opening, I will see. But everybody can test as well or contribute other ideas in this regard.

IMG_3557 (resized).JPGIMG_3561 (resized).JPG
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