(Topic ID: 244666)

JJPOTC Treasure Chest Open/Close mod, now working!


By pinballj

3 months ago



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#701 31 days ago
Quoted from Meadowhawk:

I'll check this and let you know...thanks.

Okay did this and the light stays on and servo doesn't move.

Quoted from vireland:

If the lights are always "beating" then that likely means the switch is always on or wired wrong.

So with the playfield raised and power on, if the forks are UP and the lights in the chest are on, will manually closing the switch with your hand so it clicks turn them off? Or even when the switch clicks closed manually with your hands the lights stay on?

Did this too and the lights stay on. I'll check the connections next.

#702 31 days ago
Quoted from arzoo:

Can the code be updated before the mod is installed or does it require power from the pirates?

It can be updated without being installed; it'll receiver power over usb.

#703 31 days ago
Quoted from tgrinchy:

It can be updated without being installed; it'll receiver power over usb.

Thanks, that's what I figured but wanted to make sure.

#704 31 days ago

Just stumbled on Buffalo Pinball doing a livestream install of the actuating chest mod...cool!

#705 31 days ago

FYI, McSirTuna is installing his chest mod tonight on Buffalo Pinball: http://www.twitch.tv/buffalopinball

#706 31 days ago
Quoted from Meadowhawk:

Just stumbled on Buffalo Pinball doing a livestream install of the actuating chest mod...cool!

Nice!

Quoted from tgrinchy:

I tried the new code and the chest is reversed now - prior version had orientation correct; now it's open when forks down instead of closed.
FYI I uploaded the 1.0 code and the orientation is correct again.
Scott - was the orientation change in 1.1 intentional or a mistake?

Well, here's the thing... and someone correct me if I am wrong. The "direction" is somewhat entirely based on how you connect the rod to the servo. How the arm is oriented can push or pull. If you are looking at the servo like a clock (with the sticker on it reading normal) if the arm and rod are connected at the say 9 o'clock position then when the switch is closed the arm rotates clockwise extending the rod and letting the chest close. If the arm/rod are connected at the 3 o'clock position then when the switch is closed the servo rotates and pulls on the rod, opening the chest.

Some people suggested earlier that they had to install theirs at the 3 o'clock when my video had it at the 9. I'm not sure why the conflicting reports in that regard, but when I went through the code I cleaned up how it determined what open/closed was and where it started when first powered on. Likely this reversed it from what you are used to, I didn't think to compare but the servos seemed to move the same as I was used to so just an oversight if that is the case.

What position, according to the above clock example, is your rod connected at?

I'd suggest the proper position is the 9 o'clock one which I think makes bending of the minimal comparatively, but I am open to feedback. I can reverse the direction in 1.1 if that keeps it consistent with the first version. Or you can loosen the servo arm and rotate it 180 deg, I think.

Can you confirm on these assumptions?

Edit - yeah, I just did the comparison, looks like I should just reverse it back to keep it consistent. Doing that now.

#707 31 days ago
Quoted from tgrinchy:

It can be updated without being installed; it'll receiver power over usb.

I would suggest unplugging the servo if you do this as it can interfere with the upload, for whatever reason. Not sure if it is the power requirements or being connected to a pin but it's been my experience if fails more often than not. At least unplugging the servo when powering it over USB seems to fix that. If you power it via the game then you can leave it all plugged in. Try it first, but if it fails this is likely why.

I don't understand why the Arduino puts out voltage on the VIN pin when powered over USB.

#708 31 days ago

Yep I figured that was the case here - my servo came with the rod attachment around the 3 position so that’s what I've been working with. I have no issue swapping to the 9 o’clock position but wasn’t sure which side was the “standard” in this case; now we know

I’ll swap to 9 and go from there, thanks!

#709 31 days ago

Scott maybe you can implement a ticket system on your site which does not email a ticket number back to you and then you don’t get any response back at all. Seems to work wonders for pinball support.

#710 31 days ago
Quoted from tgrinchy:

Yep I figured that was the case here - my servo came with the rod attachment around the 3 position so that’s what I've been working with. I have no issue swapping to the 9 o’clock position but wasn’t sure which side was the “standard” in this case; now we know
I’ll swap to 9 and go from there, thanks!

HA... I just changed the code. The 1.1 version (you're probably the only person who has the old version) has the direction the same as the v1. That way there is no confusion... err, no further confusion

#711 31 days ago
Quoted from gumnut01:

Scott maybe you can implement a ticket system on your site which does not email a ticket number back to you and then you don’t get any response back at all. Seems to work wonders for pinball support.

Brilliant.

#712 30 days ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Yeah, flick the switch (hold it down) to make sure it is clicking and the servo activates. You can push the forks up manually (side the white bushings on the side up, the ones that contact the switch) to get them out of the way. If the servo moving when the switch activates then I would make sure the switch connection is good (the red plug in the bundle of wires).

Hey Scott, I believe I found the problem, the solder connection to the middle post of the switch came loose and was not connected. I'll resolder in the morning and retest it, thanks.

#713 30 days ago
Quoted from Meadowhawk:

Hey Scott, I believe I found the problem, the solder connection to the middle post of the switch came loose and was not connected. I'll resolder in the morning and retest it, thanks.

Ah good catch. Thanks!

#714 30 days ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

HA... I just changed the code. The 1.1 version (you're probably the only person who has the old version) has the direction the same as the v1. That way there is no confusion... err, no further confusion

LOL - so I moved to 9 o’clock and seems fine. Are you saying 3 o’clock is the way to go with a new code update on 1.1?

#715 30 days ago
Quoted from tgrinchy:

LOL - so I moved to 9 o’clock and seems fine. Are you saying 3 o’clock is the way to go with a new code update on 1.1?

Back to the original, yea.

#716 30 days ago

Ah got a note that the update instructions didn't have details on installing the required libraries for the Arduino. It's a small thing, I created a new video and am uploading now.

Edit - here it is. Hopefully that is clear.

https://magicalproductions.miiduu.com/jpinballs-actuated-chest-mod-update-instructions

#717 30 days ago

Figured I'd share. I went through and installed the Actuating Chest Mod last night. I did complete the install, but did run into some issues that people have noted here (servo was going backwards). It is a long video, but it shows the full process I went through. I'd expect that we may upload it to YT as well eventually.

https://www.twitch.tv/videos/468699131

Happy to answer any questions on my experience.

#718 30 days ago
Quoted from McSirTuna:

Figured I'd share. I went through and installed the Actuating Chest Mod last night. I did complete the install, but did run into some issues that people have noted here (servo was going backwards). It is a long video, but it shows the full process I went through. I'd expect that we may upload it to YT as well eventually.
https://www.twitch.tv/videos/468699131
Happy to answer any questions on my experience.

A scholar and a gentleman. Thanks mcsirtuna and all the others who have posted feedback and slugged through the install helping make this easier for everyone else.

#719 30 days ago

Scott, I remember that you wanted to add a video regarding the de-installation of the chest lid. Do you still plan to publish one? I have no idea how to separate the lid from the chest, especially without damaging the optos (where are the optos by the way?).

#720 30 days ago

Just installed the chest mod. In the close position, the arm is up (12:00) instead of down. Wasn't too much trouble to switch it.

The 4 screws that go into the metal bracket were a bear to get in, especially the left side. I removed some playfield hardware to make room.

Also the tab in the back of the chest bumps into the clear coil cover. I'll probably just dremel that cover a little.

Anyway, this mod is fantastic!

#721 29 days ago
Quoted from Zora:

Scott, I remember that you wanted to add a video regarding the de-installation of the chest lid. Do you still plan to publish one? I have no idea how to separate the lid from the chest, especially without damaging the optos (where are the optos by the way?).

I have it somewhere. I'll find it and post.

#722 29 days ago
Quoted from Zora:

Scott, I remember that you wanted to add a video regarding the de-installation of the chest lid. Do you still plan to publish one? I have no idea how to separate the lid from the chest, especially without damaging the optos (where are the optos by the way?).

Start at 54m in the above twitch video. It's two small lock nuts on the left side. Use an open ended wrench. I also used a magnet as I was removing them so they wouldn't fall into the game.

#723 29 days ago
Quoted from spidey:

Just installed the chest mod. In the close position, the arm is up (12:00) instead of down. Wasn't too much trouble to switch it.
The 4 screws that go into the metal bracket were a bear to get in, especially the left side. I removed some playfield hardware to make room.
Also the tab in the back of the chest bumps into the clear coil cover. I'll probably just dremel that cover a little.
Anyway, this mod is fantastic!

I had this exact same experience. You saved me the typing. On all points. It’s awesome though!

Also, my buttons for lighting, mod control didn’t seem to do what the little map said, but I mostly figured it out. Great stuff.

#724 28 days ago

For the life of me I cannot get the Arduino programmed. Just never recognizes it is plugged in. Tried a PC and Mac. Tried 3 different usb cables. Tried with game powered on and powered off. I go into the port settings and never see the nano recognized as being attached. Any recommendations here?

#725 28 days ago
Quoted from VillaThrills:

For the life of me I cannot get the Arduino programmed. Just never recognizes it is plugged in. Tried a PC and Mac. Tried 3 different usb cables. Tried with game powered on and powered off. I go into the port settings and never see the nano recognized as being attached. Any recommendations here?

It has to be selected in the port setting. If it is greyed out, then unplug the cable from the nano and plug it back it. I had to do that several times and then the port was recognized and you can select it. Otherwise just follow the video but make sure you add the two libraries to the program first. Good luck

#726 28 days ago
Quoted from VillaThrills:

For the life of me I cannot get the Arduino programmed. Just never recognizes it is plugged in. Tried a PC and Mac. Tried 3 different usb cables. Tried with game powered on and powered off. I go into the port settings and never see the nano recognized as being attached. Any recommendations here?

Some people point to it being a driver issue, especially on Windows. See https://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/60010/arduino-board-not-detected-when-connected-via-usb

But I am happy to connect to your computer and see if I can help. Traveling at the moment, but maybe tonight? I'll PM you again to see when we can connect.

#727 28 days ago

Mine hasn't been shipped yet. Will the update already be on there?

#728 28 days ago
Quoted from VillaThrills:

For the life of me I cannot get the Arduino programmed. Just never recognizes it is plugged in. Tried a PC and Mac. Tried 3 different usb cables. Tried with game powered on and powered off. I go into the port settings and never see the nano recognized as being attached. Any recommendations here?

There are also different drivers that you will need to find which are not installed automatically with the Arduino software.

#729 28 days ago

Thanks rdoyle1978. I didn't do it on a Windows machine, haven't test if a VM will work. I believe it will so I can test on there and post a video too. Your video seems to be private.

Quoted from javagrind888:

Mine hasn't been shipped yet. Will the update already be on there?

Yes, if you have not received a shipping notice by now (which you will likely soon) then you will have the latest code installed.

#730 28 days ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Thanks rdoyle1978. I didn't do it on a Windows machine, haven't test if a VM will work. I believe it will so I can test on there and post a video too. Your video seems to be private.

Yes, if you have not received a shipping notice by now (which you will likely soon) then you will have the latest code installed.

Aah sorry, it wasn’t my video - looks like embedding is disabled. You just have to click the “watch on YouTube” link

This is required for a Windows deployment

#731 28 days ago

Finally got it working. I am guessing the Nano is a knock off. Needed to download the CH340/341 drivers as the official Arduino drivers don't recognize the com chip. But thankfully all is good now. Will need to take another look as it seems to be rubbing somewhere a bit. But if anyone is having problems getting the port recognized, it is the USB driver. You can't use the official Arduino drivers.

Thanks Rdoyle1978!

#732 27 days ago
Quoted from VillaThrills:

Finally got it working. I am guessing the Nano is a knock off. Needed to download the CH340/341 drivers as the official Arduino drivers don't recognize the com chip. But thankfully all is good now. Will need to take another look as it seems to be rubbing somewhere a bit. But if anyone is having problems getting the port recognized, it is the USB driver. You can't use the official Arduino drivers.
Thanks Rdoyle1978!

You’re most welcome!

#733 27 days ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

You’re most welcome!

Quoted from VillaThrills:

Finally got it working. I am guessing the Nano is a knock off. Needed to download the CH340/341 drivers as the official Arduino drivers don't recognize the com chip. But thankfully all is good now. Will need to take another look as it seems to be rubbing somewhere a bit. But if anyone is having problems getting the port recognized, it is the USB driver. You can't use the official Arduino drivers.
Thanks Rdoyle1978!

So good to have clever dudes helping thick arses like me out! Done Uploading!!

#734 27 days ago

Considering adding this mod, however I watched most of MCSirTuna's twitch video and it took 4 hrs and looked pretty painful to install and get running correctly. Wondering if others have this same experience. I do want to thank him for making that video.

#735 27 days ago

Yes, pretty much the same. We watched McSirTuna's entire video. It was very long (and a bit boring) but had some helpful tips and always good to see it done before tackling the actual job. For that we thank him and say much appreciated. We also watched all of Harry Houdini's YouTube videos which were quite helpful. But after all of that, it still took my wife and I over 4 hours to do the install because of adjustment problems with the operating arm and the chest lid alignment. Two things in particular 'tricked us up". The lighting mod controller receptacle was not visible on the arduino and we had to cut away some of the shrink tubing to find it. I "pm'd" Harry (aka Scott) for guidance and he provided me with a YouTube link that I had never seen mention of before and that helped us immensely. The second 'minor' problem was the plastic shield that protects the coil behind the chest was interfering with the operating rod. We had to trim it before we could reinstall it. As I say, the real time consumer was the adjustments processes but otherwise it was not terribly difficult. The mod is nicely engineered and it is a cool mod and a real upgrade to the game. I think it is well worth all of the effort.

#736 27 days ago
Quoted from Crile1:

Considering adding this mod, however I watched most of MCSirTuna's twitch video and it took 4 hrs and looked pretty painful to install and get running correctly. Wondering if others have this same experience. I do want to thank him for making that video.

It's well worth the time to install.
Another tip is to use blue/masking tape to hold the lid shut while the pf is up. This makes it easy for getting the rod set into the brass fitting at the right length. Then when you test it, if the open/close isn't right, just slide off the 4-arm piece, turn it slightly, and put it back on. Don't worry about installing the small phillips screw that secures that arm in until you're done.

It actually makes the game look better because now you get to see the top of the chest lid, which is very detailed. And, before I never really could tell when the chest was ready for a ball lock or not. Now it's obvious.

#737 27 days ago
Quoted from arcadem:

We watched McSirTuna's entire video. It was very long (and a bit boring)

I agree. It was too long and a waste of time if your goal is to remove the Black Pearl.

This video is much better. Direct and to the point. Don't waste an hour. This takes only 11 minutes.

#738 27 days ago

Good to know I’m boring and I’m wasting your time. I’ll keep that in mind for future videos where I try to be helpful by doing something in real time while learning at the same time.

#739 27 days ago
Quoted from McSirTuna:

Good to know I’m boring and I’m wasting your time. I’ll keep that in mind for future videos where I try to be helpful by doing something in real time while learning at the same time.

It was nice of you to help others as a live stream. I definitely appreciate that. I'm sure it was better live.

But when it's archived, it plays back like a vanity talk show, full of extraneous commentary in need of editing.

I actually didn't think you were boring. The video just was not efficiently providing specific information.

Many just want to quickly know how to remove the BP playfield so they can get to work.

#740 27 days ago
Quoted from RTS:

It was nice of you to help others as a live stream. I definitely appreciate that. I'm sure it was better live.
But when it's archived, it plays back like a vanity talk show, full of extraneous commentary in need of editing.
I actually didn't think you were boring. The video just was not efficiently providing specific information.
Many just want to quickly know how to remove the BP playfield so they can get to work.

You realize the video is the install of the actuating chest mod, nothing to do with the black pearl, yeah? Not sure how a BP removal video is relevant to this thread, but knock yourself out.

#741 27 days ago

We can gladly continue this discussion off this thread because I don’t want to derail the content here with non-pertinent information. But as a note, this is about the actuating chest mod and not about the removal of the black pearl which is not required for the mod of the actuating chest.

#742 27 days ago

Are the install rod and light control pad (I ordered the light mod) supposed to be included in the package? Mine had neither.

Are people really averaging 3-4 hours to install this mod?

#743 27 days ago
Quoted from McSirTuna:

We can gladly continue this discussion off this thread because I don’t want to derail the content here with non-pertinent information. But as a note, this is about the actuating chest mod and not about the removal of the black pearl which is not required for the mod of the actuating chest.

I saw the same video as a key post in the owner's club thread on removing the BP.

#744 27 days ago

adamross 3-4 hours is possible. But if I had to do it again and didn't run into the issues I did, then I could certainly see it taking much less ~1 hour. I personally move slow / methodical when I'm installing mods. Sometimes you may drop screws and that can easily burn an extra 20 minutes finding them. Things happen anytime you dig into a machine. But as previously stated, I don't regret it a bit. It's a really great modification that is worth the time it takes to install. Scott's instructions are VERY good and make it easy to follow along.

The install rod should be included.

#745 27 days ago

My chest lid adjustment ended up with the lid higher on the right side. There is a bit of a gap. Before I tightened the adjustment screws the lid sat flat at the front. I know it always has a gap at the back. Does anyone else have this problem? Can only see left right and back forward adjustment, no up and down.

image (resized).jpg
#746 27 days ago

Found the culprit. It rests on this triangle of metal. I guess I can either cut into the lid bracket or cut this bit of metal off

image (resized).jpg
#747 27 days ago
Quoted from McSirTuna:

adamross 3-4 hours is possible. But if I had to do it again and didn't run into the issues I did, then I could certainly see it taking much less ~1 hour. I personally move slow / methodical when I'm installing mods. Sometimes you may drop screws and that can easily burn an extra 20 minutes finding them. Things happen anytime you dig into a machine. But as previously stated, I don't regret it a bit. It's a really great modification that is worth the time it takes to install. Scott's instructions are VERY good and make it easy to follow along.
The install rod should be included.

I personally love your videos. They are very helpful and I hope you keep making more. Thanks!

#748 27 days ago
Quoted from gumnut01:

Found the culprit. It rests on this triangle of metal. I guess I can either cut into the lid bracket or cut this bit of metal off[quoted image]

Don't do that right off. If you can avoid cutting, that's always the best way.

I'd first try using flat headed screws instead of pan head. Then, also try putting a spacer on the lid-side of the chest bracket between the bracket and the lid to raise the chest lid enough to let it close.

#749 27 days ago
Quoted from gumnut01:

My chest lid adjustment ended up with the lid higher on the right side. There is a bit of a gap. Before I tightened the adjustment screws the lid sat flat at the front. I know it always has a gap at the back. Does anyone else have this problem? Can only see left right and back forward adjustment, no up and down.[quoted image]

I was able to get mine completely closed in front. No idea what the back looks like. Definitely took a lot of tweaking but no need for cutting.

#750 27 days ago
Quoted from vireland:

Don't do that right off. If you can avoid cutting, that's always the best way.
I'd first try using flat headed screws instead of pan head. Then, also try putting a spacer on the lid-side of the chest bracket between the bracket and the lid to raise the chest lid enough to let it close.

Quoted from VillaThrills:

I was able to get mine completely closed in front. No idea what the back looks like. Definitely took a lot of tweaking but no need for cutting.

Thanks! Will retry. I do hate nylon lock nuts when adjusting things.

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