Yes, I think potentially it is wired backwards. The control arm motor is rotating the other direction than what the instruction video shows. Actually, for a fix I just placed the control arm at the 12 o’clock position instead of the 6 o’clock position when lid closed and tightened the hex nut on the rod there. It works and does not interfere with any mechanical or wires so I’m going to leave it unless advised otherwise. Plays well. Such an improvement on the game!!!

I don't know if this would happen, I didn't test, but is the servo plug connected in the right orientation? The brown from the servo wire matches up with the black from the arduino plug. It's a black connetor with 3 wires.

Hummm.. interesting. I did not have this happen in my testing. I did not disconnect the servo in the code, from everything I read it wasn't necessary and would let the servo move with force applied to it and not hold its position. Could this be an issue with that particular servo?

I can certainly add a detach method but I've even read comments where people suggest not to do that. It is my understanding you keep it attached so it has power applied and holds its position.

PinMonk or pinballj do you have specific experience with this issue? Or PinMonk were you just commenting that is what pinballj did?

I'll search the thread and see what was up.

The detach statement definitely needs to be in the code, otherwise the Servo will eventually burn out

I'm using servo detach because if you don't, the servo is alway applying micro-power and it makes annoying noises and unnecessary (in the big picture) micro movements. Pretty sure having the servo keep grinding the position non-stop is worse for the servo than turning it on and off as-needed. It takes quite a bit of force to move the servo, so slippage once software disconnected is not a problem. I'm running it on a route machine (with different overall code I did, but servo detach at the end of each movement) and have had no problems.

Replacement Opto parts were actually Digi-key, not Mouser (I realized when I pulled the bags of them I have). The two I have are:

Part Number 365-1626-ND
https://www.digikey.com/products/en?keywords=365-1626-ND%20%20

...and 365-1627-ND
https://www.digikey.com/products/en?keywords=365-1627-ND%20%20

Pretty spendy at about $3 each.

Ok, I'll add that in and provide instructions on how to update. Every dang resource I can find, even the Arduino examples, don't seem to use it or say not to.

Good notes. Weird, I tested maybe 10 servos in various code iterations and never had any chatter.

It's pretty quiet unless it's against something that amplifies the vibration. I could HEAR it on my desk, then holding it, I could feel it. But I can't imagine it's good for the life of the servo.

This is a common thing with the Arduino examples - they get you started but don’t always follow all the way through for practical use

Is there any easier way for people to update their Arduinos aside from using the IDE or web editor? I'll post the updated code once I test it and make a video on updating. I was looking to see if a USB drive could do it or maybe a Pi? I would be happy to mail a pi to people if they could just plug it in and it would update. Whatever to make it easiest.

Oh and we'll deploy it on the 2nd batch. I would also swap out or program controllers for people if they want to send them in.

Well, I mean I read some in-depth threads on servo movement concepts and implementation especially non-blocking stuff and I know specifically people called out not detaching the servo so as to keep it in place. Guess I missed that part of the discussion here, doh.

I don't know of any way, but I'm by no means a Nano master. Pretty sure you just need to plug it into a computer and update that way through the USB.

I actually got one of those $129 Dell Inspiron 11" mini Win10 laptops specifically for this purpose, since when I'm testing it post-install, lugging a full laptop every time I wanted to field test an update I completed bench testing at home was a pain.

Cool, I don't see anything other than OTA and that's not applicable. I'll get an update video posted and details on how to get a swap from me.

Looks like you can deploy a compiled HEX binary using various loaders that people have written. Here is one: https://github.com/twinearthsoftware/ArduinoSketchUploader

That one is windows only. Not sure how much easier that is versus installing the IDE. Maybe saves a few steps, but not really.

Another that is win only: https://sourceforge.net/projects/arduinodev/files/ArduinoBuilder/

Mac specific one: http://paulkaplan.me/HexUploader/

I'm gonna test these and figure out the easiest method.

Same thing on mine. What I did was instead of having the arm point down like in Harry’s video I flipped it up. Didn’t need to flip the polarity then.

Interesting. I should test and see if it the servo reverses plugged in backwards. I don't know how some could move one way and some the other.

Code is updated, I'll post it shortly with instructions for both Windows and Mac on how to do the update. I'll also post how to get a swap of your controller if you don't want to do it. But it's really simple and I'll do a video on how to update. All mods that ship from this point forward (if you do not already have a tracking number) will have the v1.1 code with the servo detaching.

I didn't get a chance to test the servo direction yet. Was busy soldering and trying to get the next batch ready. CPR informed me the lids have already shipped so just waiting on those.

At least it's easy to correct, just attach the lid rod to the arm on the other side of the servo arm.

For the rotation yea. For the servo detach might be a bit more challenging.

I also found, on a side note, that older USB cables are really iffy. I bought some new mini USB and it solved all of my programming issues. But yeah, download the IDE and upload the sketch. Hopefully not that troublesome and if there is any more feedback on colors, speeds, etc. I can add in more changes.

Got the Chest Mod and Maelstrom switch upgrade done! Incredible work man! Played about 15 games and everything kicking butt...worth every penny!

Maelstrom switch? What was wrong with it?

Harry made a mod which hides the switch. I didn’t notice it until he pointed it out, but it is REALLY distracting once it’s on your radar

Pet peeve project
https://pinballmods.co/maelstrom-hidden-switch-mod-jjp-potc

any news on updated code HH? I was about to install and I remembered it needed an update...

I got wrapped up in trying to finish the backboard star lighting. I have the code open here, I added a bit more stuff to it (cycles the chest when it first gets power, cleaned up a few things and left the servo on for a long time to see if it creeped, which it has not). I just want to go over it again and I'll post it today. Making videos on how to update for those that don't know.

We have it running on route and I used servo disconnect from the get-go. It does not creep in any visible way if disconnected after moving. Don't worry about that.

Oh, I was more worried that the cycle was right in my code. Not sure if you looked at it but the way the servo movement works now is non-blocking so it's a bit different. So, meaning, it seems like the disconnect is working properly in the updated code not that the servo would move without being connected.

Oh, I didn't look at the way you did it. I decided that the incremental servo commands in the initial code taken from an ardiono sample were a pretty useless difference over just telling the servo to go to the desired position in one shot and then disconnecting. Simpler, easier, less stress on the unit, not much practical difference visually, so that's the way I went.

Yah, it has to be non-blocking to do all the other things I am doing. Looking for key presses, doing the heartbeat, etc. The delays in the original code block everything so everything is timer based now. Tiny, incremental moves each loop over N millis.

ChestModCode.v.1.1

New code is there. Someone want to sanity check this for me?
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1ZwxjiChpERzNHH9Ty9zyNsT4XK6R4gFE

Notes:
- Servo now attaches and detaches before and after each move cycle. This should prevent any adjustments or creep while it is stationary

- On initial power on the servo cycles the chest lid and then sets it's position based on the switch. Generally this should never be needed since the switch will most likely be closed any time the game gets power on but it bugged me.

- Modified the speeds just a bit to give a bigger range

- Added some checking of servo position and a few other fixes and arrangements of code

Working on details on installing the update for Win and Mac users.

Does this mod require any permanent alterations to either the chest or the game itself? Looks really cool.

Check the servo switch with the forks down and see if the arm is bent out enough on the switch to be triggered. I bet the switch isn't triggering.

Nope. Aside from some small wear and tear on the screw holes on the chest lid it's completely reversible.

But if you force the arm down a little more, does the switch base click? If it still has room to click, it's not registering.

Did you get the lighting? If so, can you see it on inside the chest?

Yeah, flick the switch (hold it down) to make sure it is clicking and the servo activates. You can push the forks up manually (side the white bushings on the side up, the ones that contact the switch) to get them out of the way. If the servo moving when the switch activates then I would make sure the switch connection is good (the red plug in the bundle of wires).

Btw, we do test every one when we install the code initially. We run through all of the functions with the actual switch and servo that get shipped with.

Nope, that's indicative of the switch not working. Push the forks up out of the way and try clicking the switch. It has to stay depressed for 500ms to activate. When it activates the lights should shut off and the servo should move. If neither of those are happening then there is a problem with the switch or the connection to the board. Either way we'll get you parts shipped out to replace.

HAH. This is not allowed! Pinball is life!

Here are the updating instructions for the Arduino controller. Aside from a laptop you need a mini USB cable. I linked to one on amazon, if you have an old one it should work but I had trouble with really old ones.

https://pinballmods.co/chest-mod-code-update

Someone let me know if they have done this and tried the new code. If I left anything out, anything is unclear. Thanks!

If the lights are always "beating" then that likely means the switch is always on or wired wrong.

So with the playfield raised and power on, if the forks are UP and the lights in the chest are on, will manually closing the switch with your hand so it clicks turn them off? Or even when the switch clicks closed manually with your hands the lights stay on?

I tried the new code and the chest is reversed now - prior version had orientation correct; now it's open when forks down instead of closed.

FYI I uploaded the 1.0 code and the orientation is correct again.

Scott - was the orientation change in 1.1 intentional or a mistake?

Can the code be updated before the mod is installed or does it require power from the pirates?