Ordered with the light mod!
Can you show a video of the installation from above also?
Can't wait!
Quoted from PinMonk:No, it doesn't have anything to do with what Harry's shipping.
I went off into the imagination desert and made a different "OCD" version with a two-chamber heart light in the chest lid and a 4x4 matrix of LEDs that I programmed to transition in and out of colors that shift from greenish to dark blue to simulate the sea. My *idea* was to put that below the chest (it's very thin), but when I did it, you could see the reflection of the matrix lights in the gloss of the playfield, so I had to re-think it. I'm now making a bracket that will shift the 4x4 matrix behind the chest, aimed down to light up the channel under the chest without the reflection of the LEDs.
This is an earlier version of the Nano box (that's an upgraded version from what I posted for people to print of the basic Nano box enclosure). It has the two LEDs, 5v input from the ATX power supply in the backbox, and the AUX is the connector I'm using to drive the "ocean" matrix.[quoted image]
Thanks! Sorry I got confused. Should be great when you are finished.
Quoted from harryhoudini:Here is an introduction video to the chest mod pieces and how you'll get the items from us. Some had asked to see what was involved with the install and this gives a short overview of how this gets installed on the game. I didn't show removing the lid, it's a pretty simple procedure and I have a video of that as well which will be combined into an install video. Again, this isn't an install video, which I am making and will be more in depth.
Looks like we have about 45 or so of the mods that will be shipping out this week. They will go in order, obviously, so you'll get a shipping notification if you are in those first 45. I think we'll have another 30 or more going out next week, which should be close to covering all of the orders.
Two questions on this video.
Why did you use the optional 4-way connector on the servo instead of the 2-way arm it also comes with?
Also, the Steel kwik-link rods come with an end that has a springloaded clip that can snap into the holes on the servo arms eliminating the need for any other parts to connect the rod to the servo arm. I used the second hole from the end and drilled it out a smidge more to make the rod move freely once snapped into the servo arm holes, but this eliminates one whole other part.
Quoted from PinMonk:Two questions on this video.
Why did you use the optional 4-way connector on the servo instead of the 2-way arm it also comes with?
Also, the Steel kwik-link rods come with an end that has a springloaded clip that can snap into the holes on the servo arms eliminating the need for any other parts to connect the rod to the servo arm. I used the second hole from the end and drilled it out a smidge more to make the rod move freely once snapped into the servo arm holes, but this eliminates one whole other part.
And here I cut off the threads LoL. It still is working perfect
Quoted from PinMonk:Two questions on this video.
Why did you use the optional 4-way connector on the servo instead of the 2-way arm it also comes with?
Also, the Steel kwik-link rods come with an end that has a springloaded clip that can snap into the holes on the servo arms eliminating the need for any other parts to connect the rod to the servo arm. I used the second hole from the end and drilled it out a smidge more to make the rod move freely once snapped into the servo arm holes, but this eliminates one whole other part.
I don't know why the 4-way arm. That's just what pinballj's prototype showed up with. Does it matter? I think they are the same length arms on each?
I think the thinking on the kwik-link arms was to provide somewhat unlimited adjustability. If you use the arm and the threaded end is at the servo are you bending the upper end? Seems like that's sort of almost semi-permanent whereas the other way you can just slide it in and out of the bushing on the servo. I wanted to do a sort of "T" barrel type slip joint at the top but this way seems to work just fine.
Quoted from harryhoudini:I don't know why the 4-way arm. That's just what pinballj's prototype showed up with. Does it matter? I think they are the same length arms on each?
I think the thinking on the kwik-link arms was to provide somewhat unlimited adjustability. If you use the arm and the threaded end is at the servo are you bending the upper end? Seems like that's sort of almost semi-permanent whereas the other way you can just slide it in and out of the bushing on the servo. I wanted to do a sort of "T" barrel type slip joint at the top but this way seems to work just fine.
Yeah sorry about the confusion on the 4 way arm use. It was just the first one I grabbed. Really any of them would work (but I dont have OCD either lol).
On the kwik link, I did end up using the threaded rod end w the clevis to go on the servo instead of the mini connector on mine (either way works), and then using a little ball end that has a set screw on the side for the end to the chest top.
This also allows for you to unscrew the kwik link altogether from the top of the playfield, if you ever wanted to get into the chest. Of course I can't think of why you would want to do that. Maybe have a party. Oooh a disco party with @harryhoudini's light mod!
Nice work on your nano bracket @vireland! I like the labels too!
1565141589486395881561050416345 (resized).jpgQuoted from harryhoudini:I don't know why the 4-way arm. That's just what pinballj's prototype showed up with. Does it matter? I think they are the same length arms on each?
I think the thinking on the kwik-link arms was to provide somewhat unlimited adjustability. If you use the arm and the threaded end is at the servo are you bending the upper end? Seems like that's sort of almost semi-permanent whereas the other way you can just slide it in and out of the bushing on the servo. I wanted to do a sort of "T" barrel type slip joint at the top but this way seems to work just fine.
Quoted from pinballj:Yeah sorry about the confusion on the 4 way arm use. It was just the first one I grabbed. Really any of them would work (but I dont have OCD either lol).
On the kwik link, I did end up using the threaded rod end w the clevis to go on the servo instead of the mini connector on mine (either way works), and then using a little ball end that has a set screw on the side for the end to the chest top.
This also allows for you to unscrew the kwik link altogether from the top of the playfield, if you ever wanted to get into the chest. Of course I can't think of why you would want to do that. Maybe have a party. Oooh a disco party with @harryhoudini's light mod!
Nice work on your nano bracket @vireland! I like the labels too![quoted image]
Add another 4 arms (or more) and it’s like we have the kraken under there!
Quoted from pinballj:On the kwik link, I did end up using the threaded rod end w the clevis to go on the servo instead of the mini connector on mine (either way works), and then using a little ball end that has a set screw on the side for the end to the chest top.
This also allows for you to unscrew the kwik link altogether from the top of the playfield, if you ever wanted to get into the chest.
Yeah, that's the way I went, too. It made more sense to me, plus with all the wire bunches down by the servo, the less that's down there, the better.
Quoted from pinballj:Yeah sorry about the confusion on the 4 way arm use. It was just the first one I grabbed. Really any of them would work (but I dont have OCD either lol).
On the kwik link, I did end up using the threaded rod end w the clevis to go on the servo instead of the mini connector on mine (either way works), and then using a little ball end that has a set screw on the side for the end to the chest top.
This also allows for you to unscrew the kwik link altogether from the top of the playfield, if you ever wanted to get into the chest. Of course I can't think of why you would want to do that. Maybe have a party. Oooh a disco party with @harryhoudini's light mod!
Nice work on your nano bracket @vireland! I like the labels too![quoted image]
Got a link for that part? That would probably be a much better solution, but we just went with what was on the BOM and in the original instructions.
Quoted from harryhoudini:Got a link for that part? That would probably be a much better solution, but we just went with what was on the BOM and in the original instructions.
The Servo on the BOM came with 3 or 4 arms, including the 2 way one.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KZKOIZC
And then I just clipped on the kwik-link spring-loaded end onto the second from the last hole on the 2-way arm after drilling it out a very small smidge so the hole was a little bigger and the link moved easier:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006O4G8M
Quoted from PinMonk:The Servo on the BOM came with 3 or 4 arms, including the 2 way one.
amazon.com link »
And then I just clipped on the kwik-link spring-loaded end onto the second from the last hole on the 2-way arm after drilling it out a very small smidge so the hole was a little bigger and the link moved easier:
amazon.com link »
Ah, I was meaning for the clevis or ball end that pinballj used at the top. I don't want to ship all of these with a lesser solution if there is something better. We've install all of the bushings on the servos but we can probably get those changed over pretty quickly if there is a better method.
Quoted from harryhoudini:Ah, I was meaning for the clevis or ball end that pinballj used at the top. I don't want to ship all of these with a lesser solution if there is something better. We've install all of the bushings on the servos but we can probably get those changed over pretty quickly if there is a better method.
The clevis clip is the part that goes on the servo end (it comes with the Kwik link rod). snapping into one of the holes on the arm.
You can just use the Du-Bro 605 E-Z Connector with the set screw only and not use the other parts of it for the top.
Quoted from PinMonk:The clevis clip is the part that goes on the servo end (it comes with the Kwik link rod). snapping into one of the holes on the arm.
You can just use the Du-Bro 605 E-Z Connector with the set screw only and not use the other parts of it for the top.
LOL, ok so all the same parts (minus the need for the nut) just reversed basically, and using the clevis from the rod. Ok. I'll go mess around and see what we need to swap.
Bit of a pest for you to change 50 orders, if the 4 way arm works why not just ship it Harry? Would not bother me unless it poses an mechanical fault, affected functionality or looked ugly above playfield.
Maybe but as an old RC plane guy, that’s the proper way to connect a servo. Easy swap but we could do it ourselves as well.
Quoted from dts:Maybe but as an old RC plane guy, that’s the proper way to connect a servo. Easy swap but we could do it ourselves as well.
Yep, give us instructions. Happy to swap.
Ok, gonna talk with my wife and see how much it would take to change. If not easy enough to keep on track we'll give easy change instructions. I suppose both ways could work so two options.
Quoted from harryhoudini:Ok, gonna talk with my wife and see how much it would take to change. If not easy enough to keep on track we'll give easy change instructions. I suppose both ways could work so two options.
There is a second batch right? So anyone who is not happy with this approach PM harryhoudini and let him know. He can move your order to the 2nd batch if you want the 2 arm solution and you don’t want to change it yourself.
Quoted from harryhoudini:Ok, gonna talk with my wife and see how much it would take to change. If not easy enough to keep on track we'll give easy change instructions. I suppose both ways could work so two options.
The 4-way vs 2-way arm doesn’t seem to matter; its preferable to attach the servo using the spring clip - just one less part to come loose - but it will work fine either way.
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:The 4-way vs 2-way arm doesn’t seem to matter; its preferable to attach the servo using the spring clip - just one less part to come loose - but it will work fine either way.
Agree, it doesn’t really matter, works either way.
Do you have a video of the electrical installation of the mod and about the installation of the light mod?
Regards.
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:The 4-way vs 2-way arm doesn’t seem to matter; its preferable to attach the servo using the spring clip - just one less part to come loose - but it will work fine either way.
The spring clip solution seems to be more reliable long term for me, because the screw solution possibly gets week over time. However possibly better adjustable. So pros and cons.
Regarding 4 or 2 arms no issue generally. But due to small space under the playfield 2 arms preferable.
Well, regarding the situation with the clips/nuts it really is no question at all because all of the same parts will be included so anyone could reconfigure it if they wanted. I'll just cover both in the install video. The rod is really the major adjustment point either way so people will have to mess with it one way or another.
I'll post an entire install video for sure, what I've posted so far is only an overview. We are shipping out the first batch, I should have time this weekend to finish filming and editing.
Here are some updates. After test fitting we decided to enlarge the holes in the lid plate. Trying to give as much latitude to the chest lid alignment as possible. There was a bit of reconfiguring of the wiring we did to offload all of the power requirements to the 5v plug and not running the power through the Arduino. The servo code was rewritten to be non-blocking, in fact everything is now non-blocking so there is no conflict between any processes that delay. The heartbeat, keypresses and chest movement are all on independent timers. Basically, unless you care about tech junk, ignore all this. Just a small update to what we've been doing.
A small team of elves have been putting everything together so there is no building when you get the parts, just install. We are also including the 2-leg servo horn (arms) that came with the servo if you want to swap them out for whatever reason. Also included is an additional snap on for the E-Z connectors in case you want to move them around. The quick link rods have been cut to both fit in the boxes and to not have too much hanging out of the servo. Again, nothing for most people to worry about but I'll cover this all in the video.
If you get an automated tracking number email by this weekend then you're in the first group for shipments. Post here or PM me for any questions on install. The video will be up this weekend covering the full install. I suspect there will be some questions that I may not cover, things we are just taking for granted that regular owners may not know about or have understanding of. I'll be around to answer questions and fix any issues that arise.
A little thank you for your patience, everyone who ordered the chest mod is getting a prototype of a new product were working on. Seems obvious, but I don't see them anywhere and I want something like this. Simply, they are composite thumb nuts in multiple sizes, shapes and colors. I wanted them for plastics because I am constantly taking them off and on and the anodized nuts look horrible after a few uses. We did several rounds of testing and I think our latest design works really well for something generic and easy to use. I wouldn't use this design for plastics but I think for areas where it is hard to reach or you have to mess with the nuts (heh) a lot these could be really handy. It's a pain to remove the nuts behind the chest for the lid, so now if you want you can use these thumb nuts to reinstall the lid, or anywhere else you want. Obviously, these are coming in the default color of silver but we plan to have many colors, finishes and designs. Some game specific designs to blend in, some generic designs that might fit in with many games. These are made of a metal blended PLA so they are stronger than just plastic. We are experimenting with metallic colors as well as carbon fiber.
pasted_image (resized).pngQuoted from harryhoudini:Why's it a different harness?
I tapped into a connector near the Magnet at the back of the machine. On the SE, it just ends. The one I tapped into powers the depth opto in the SE
0E52D8D0-AD5E-400B-A983-323D2F3EC355 (resized).pngOooo ok, so you didn't make it passthrough, got it. Just making sure I didn't miss something different on the SE (but I'm pretty sure I had someone look at their SE before we made the power connectors)
Quoted from harryhoudini:Oooo ok, so you didn't make it passthrough, got it. Just making sure I didn't miss something different on the SE (but I'm pretty sure I had someone look at their SE before we made the power connectors)
It didn’t need to pass thru as mine ends there. I’m sure on the LE, that harness goes somewhere...maybe to the star map?
Quoted from Trooper11040:It didn’t need to pass thru as mine ends there. I’m sure on the LE, that harness goes somewhere...maybe to the star map?
The connector we used comes off the PCB in the bottom right of the playfield. It's a lead from the power supply directly, actually, goes to the PCB. I think it's a switch control board. Off the ATX connector on the PCB there is a 2 pin molex plug that is just dangling there, I think. I don't think it plugs in to anything originally, but maybe I just had mine unplugged. You may not even need a passthrough, we just designed it that way for interoperability, don't want to take over a plug.
To clarify, and update all the places we talked about this, I believe the connector we are using goes to the BP main light board. That's why it's passthrough, but I didn't have my BP in the game when I looked at it (and totally forgot about that, duh) so that is why I wasn't sure. The one you used could probably just be fine as well, the power usage on this is pretty darn minimal.
Maybe this will satiate your appetite until your mods arrive. Still working on the full install video, but I created this a bit ago and forgot to post it. Here is a brief into to the advanced control you get with the lighting mod.
Quoted from harryhoudini:Maybe this will satiate your appetite until your mods arrive. Still working on the full install video, but I created this a bit ago and forgot to post it. Here is a brief into to the advanced control you get with the lighting mod.
great, the next level of chest mod.
Phew, what a weekend. I have almost all of the video done, just going through the alignment procedure a few times to make sure I covered it all. The other parts are all uploaded to Youtube, just need to put them on the website and I'll post here so you can start watching. They are split up in to logical sections so you can just watch the video you need.
We got a bunch more mod pieces made for the next shipment. I found out the thumb nut concept we printed and included are just a bit too big and may get in the way of the lid opening all the way, oh well. Free nuts for whatever you might want. We are also including some pirate standup target decals because the printer screwed up and sent us a whole ton of them. They go on the pirate standup left of the chest, but you can use them on any rectangular stand-up. Or toss them, we have way too many.
I haven't heard back from CPR on our 2nd lid order. We had to order more because apparently people really want this mod. I hope to hear from them tomorrow that they already shipped. Either way, we'll have everything ready to ship for the 2nd batch by the time they arrive. I think almost all orders should be covered in that. Maybe a few that happened in the last week or so might not be covered, but I think we built enough once we add those in.
Quoted from harryhoudini:Phew, what a weekend. I have almost all of the video done, just going through the alignment procedure a few times to make sure I covered it all. The other parts are all uploaded to Youtube, just need to put them on the website and I'll post here so you can start watching. They are split up in to logical sections so you can just watch the video you need.
We got a bunch more mod pieces made for the next shipment. I found out the thumb nut concept we printed and included are just a bit too big and may get in the way of the lid opening all the way, oh well. Free nuts for whatever you might want. We are also including some pirate standup target decals because the printer screwed up and sent us a whole ton of them. They go on the pirate standup left of the chest, but you can use them on any rectangular stand-up. Or toss them, we have way too many.
I haven't heard back from CPR on our 2nd lid order. We had to order more because apparently people really want this mod. I hope to hear from them tomorrow that they already shipped. Either way, we'll have everything ready to ship for the 2nd batch by the time they arrive. I think almost all orders should be covered in that. Maybe a few that happened in the last week or so might not be covered, but I think we built enough once we add those in.
Awesome work!
Still working on the video, wanted to get more shipped out today so I am working on the video tonight. We're getting caught up! Heard from CPR today, they are finishing the lids and going to 2nd day the box to us, so hopefully that gets out today or tomorrow.
Quoted from harryhoudini:Still working on the video, wanted to get more shipped out today so I am working on the video tonight. We're getting caught up! Heard from CPR today, they are finishing the lids and going to 2nd day the box to us, so hopefully that gets out today or tomorrow.
Looking forward to watching it!
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