Attach the servo from the inside, then the rod fits better upwards.

What is the point of the extension for the servo? My servo wire is pretty long...

Extension? I shortened mine...

It was in the original github bill of materials...I figure i can just use the 3 wires direct from the servo...

Yeah, the wire on the servo is way too long as it comes. I trimmed it down and resoldered it to clean up the look.

We used the connector for solderless replacement

Curious why more isn't being done with the direct connection to the solenoid that raises the forks to shoot into the chest. Seems like the rapid open and close fits the game more, no electronics to deal with, and the solenoids are pretty durable. The chest lid could be cushioned to reduce the impact. Geert showed how to do this earlier:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jjpotc-treasure-chest-open-and-close/page/2#post-5050354

You're limited on the close of the solenoid by the speed of the servo (which isn't super-fast at 5v), so it will never "slam" shut, and basically just closes quickly at full speed. Also, the way the code is now, if you're wanting to beat the "heart" as it's still opening and closing, it needs to be rewritten to use the millisecond timer so it can be more like a state machine rather than single task delay loops that halt the code while one thing is happening then letting it move to the next task.

Ok, so I’m gathering that the main benefits of the current servo design would be less wear and tear on the mechanism raising the forks, and the chest itself, as well as the addition of the beating heart. Makes sense. It just looks so simple to open and close the chest lid through the existing slot that was clearly made for it. Must be a reason they got rid of it. My guess is that parts didn’t hold up.

Well, the original design was strictly mechanical and tied to the fork movement mech, so maybe the wear and tear was too great when you didn't have a servo controlling the speed of the lid closing (meaning, it slammed shut over and over until it broke something). We'll never really know.

The servo solution does add another potential point of failure, but it at least controls the speed of the lid somewhat, so I think it will be very reliable long-term. I've got one more thing to get working on my OCD version (green/blue ocean light matrix also attached to the Arduino for dim moving lagoon lighting under the chest when it's open) and then I can finally install this.

Sounds good. Scott, do you have some final video of the mech in action with the beating heart?

Yeah Scott, fucking hurry up already!

ouch! Belay that talk sailor!

Lids arrived, we're going to put together a video of the install and the full action with the light option/function. Probably have that ready this weekend with kits starting to ship then. At this point I need to go through a complete install and work on any kinks, make sure I cover any possibilities and get everything packaged up.

I think we sold around 50 kits, maybe a few more, so very cool. I also wanted to mention that we are making sure pinballj is getting covered for his time, work and costs put in to developing this. It really is very slick.

Nice one! Yes thank you pinballj for allowing Scott to make this awesome mod for us. And thank you Scott!

Is there a purchasable kit with both the chest movement and a light?

Chest mod and lighting add-on

https://pinballmods.co/pinballjs-actuated-chest-mod-jjp-potc

What’s the 2-56 hex nuts for in this setup?

That’s what my wife asked me last night!

Scott, is there a way to keep the lid open during multiball while the balls are being unloaded? I assume that would require a delay of some sort. Looks great, good work! I was gonna rig a rod from the fork solenoid but it looks like more wear and tear that way.

That's what I told my girlfriend last night!

Top of the rod to the chest lid? I can confirm, but it won't be until Sat.

Off the top of my head the only way I could see this happening is by knowing how many balls are in the chest. So the opto signal would need to be read (with a wiring harness to split it) or another switch would need to be added. Or reading the coil signal for 3 quick activations. Maybe I'm missing some obvious logic.

I ordered a kit on 12-7. What will I be getting because I see a lot of variations mentioned in this topic.

What size screws are you using to mount the actual 3D printed bracket to the coil arm?

Great updates. Hey harryhoudini where can I find the code for the Rgb light? Thanks

I think I used a 8-32 Type F thread-cutting screw (there aren't any threads on the fork assembly holes).

And the trunk mod is done!!!! This is freaking awesome!!!

Bingo.

Everyone is getting the same thing from us. I am doing the install video this weekend so you'll be able to see in living color the process and components.

Fantastic!!

--

Btw... the lexan lid is saaaaaaaaaaweeeeeeeeeet

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I went with (2) 6-32 machine screws thru the right side of the bracket and held in place with two nuts. It worked awesome and I’m not tapping into the metal which I like...just another option. You could use a 6-32 nylon nut if you’re worried about the nut backing off

did the github ever get updated with this? or forked?

I used the github for the entire process. Everything is there including the firmware for the nano

Yes but not the code for the RGB LED “heartbeat” the current code does not include this

that is something that Houdini is adding in his setup...not the original design

I get it. Seems like it would be something that should shared, since the entire mod is based on several different people's work.

It would be sweet if Houdini included it...but that's entirely up to him!

It’s a pretty affordable mod.

Sure, I'll post it, no problem. Still making a few changes but once it's good I'll link to it.

No question - I’m not complaining; this whole thing is just damn remarkable that everybody came together To figure out something that JJP gave up on! A lot of great mod ideas in that store too!

Here is an introduction video to the chest mod pieces and how you'll get the items from us. Some had asked to see what was involved with the install and this gives a short overview of how this gets installed on the game. I didn't show removing the lid, it's a pretty simple procedure and I have a video of that as well which will be combined into an install video. Again, this isn't an install video, which I am making and will be more in depth.

Looks like we have about 45 or so of the mods that will be shipping out this week. They will go in order, obviously, so you'll get a shipping notification if you are in those first 45. I think we'll have another 30 or more going out next week, which should be close to covering all of the orders.

Thanks for all your work on this, Scott.

Looks great! Lexan lid looks really nice too. Do those lid screws need washers? The heads seemed a little small around those slots but could just be the angle.

Looks really well thought out. Thank you @pinballj and @harryhoudini . Going to be awesome!

For the LED mod there are 16 brightness levels and 20 colors settable via the button controller as well as an on/off for the heartbeat. Should be enough to suit most needs.

You're right that they are close, but they have a decent amount of coverage on the slots that they aren't going anywhere.

Two tips from my OCD version experiments:

There's an atx connector in the backbox (outside the computer case) where only the 12v (yellow lead) is being used, so if you make a splitter, it's a perfect place to tap the unused 5v (red) on that connector right from the power supply connector with no draw or effect on anything else.

Putting a led matrix below the chest to light the playfield under the chest when the chest shot is open can't be done. The playfield is too reflective and you see all the leds. I'll be moving it behind the chest and reflecting it into that area instead, but it cannot be directly lit.

Oh man, that's a good idea. What about diffusing it with some opaque plastic?

Would love to see pics of the effect when you have time.

Nope. Doesn't work. The playfield is just way too shiny.

Confused. Are you talking about the leds in the lid to do the heart beat or something else?

No, it doesn't have anything to do with what Harry's shipping.

I went off into the imagination desert and made a different "OCD" version with a two-chamber heart light in the chest lid and a 4x4 matrix of LEDs that I programmed to transition in and out of colors that shift from greenish to dark blue to simulate the sea. My *idea* was to put that below the chest (it's very thin), but when I did it, you could see the reflection of the matrix lights in the gloss of the playfield, so I had to re-think it. I'm now making a bracket that will shift the 4x4 matrix behind the chest, aimed down to light up the channel under the chest without the reflection of the LEDs.

This is an earlier version of the Nano box (that's an upgraded version from what I posted for people to print of the basic Nano box enclosure). It has the two LEDs, 5v input from the ATX power supply in the backbox, and the AUX is the connector I'm using to drive the "ocean" matrix.

Nano-box (resized).jpg