(Topic ID: 240503)

jjPirates of the Caribbean Troubleshooting/Tips/Issues jjPotC Tech


By vireland

8 months ago



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3 key posts have been marked in this topic

Post #306 Tip on removing the black pearl Posted by rs812 (7 months ago)

Post #501 More tips on removing black pearl mini playfield Posted by LTG (7 months ago)

Post #1776 Broken trunk mount bracket picture Posted by Soulrider911 (5 months ago)


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#386 7 months ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Heh... I'm just about error free!

Unless I read your posts wrong did you buy this second hand? Did the seller mention any of these issues as they are rather uncommon. Glad to see you are figuring it out. The spinner on the BP is a typical setup with an arm closing a switch contact. More then likely just out of adjustment. Sadly I suspect you will have to dry dock (pull) the BP to access the switch.

#387 7 months ago
Quoted from arzoo:

Correct you are! I didn't realize that it was one plastic that surround the VUK on both sides. Also seemed like the plastic traveled down the entire right side wall but in reality it's two pieces with the metal overboard plate covering the split. With plastic removed, the only real trick was finding a 1/4" hex driver long enough to reach the screws. And as expected, my flipper had a broken solder joint on the solenoid - easy fix.
Thanks again for the VUK trick.

Not to pile on but I wonder what process or line change happened at JJP that there were so many issues with solder on this game? I honestly can't remember seeing so many failed solder issues on Any title from any OEM before. I know they went a bit overboard on the zip ties but a good solder joint will usually stand a good pull.

#391 7 months ago
Quoted from Axl:

The balls get stuck here often.
[quoted image]
It looks like the ramp is bent out of shape.
[quoted image]
As I see it I have two options.
Either put a washer on the foxing on the post by the pirate lanes, or try to bend the wire forms back to shape. Very reluctant to do any bending.
Any other suggestions?

Personally I would just add a simple washer or 2 to the end of the wire form.

#435 7 months ago
Quoted from joseph5185:

Do you have plastic protectors installed?
If so, where did you get them? Link?
Are they really necessary?
Thanks!

None installed, none needed.

#448 7 months ago
Quoted from wesman:

Ooh, nice graphic!
But also remember do NOT use star posts unless you need them/have had damage already. Otherwise you'll have them sink into the playfield.

Anything and everything fastened to a clearcoated wood playfield will leave an indentation. Kind of like a steel ball will leave dimples everywhere. Unavailable no matter what you try. It’s pinball

#452 7 months ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

The problem seems to be on this game is the dimples are leading to cracks and chips. Star post could prevent that... But maybe just preventative mylar could do it before it starts.

Completely agree. Was simply reminding that the primary reason for the star post is the distribute the screw torque load over a larger footprint. This can help minimize a possible crack as the circle footprint is larger but it will still indent into the clear. No way around that unless you don’t tighten the sling screws which I do not recommend. Technically, a flat washer of Any kind is the least damaging solution as it offers a Full surface contact compression. Mylar in my opinion does nothing but keep the chipped pieces in place. It’s all about the downward torque and how evenly and widely is it distributed. Personally I think all of this is overkill as long as the screws aren’t overtightened you should be fine.

#455 7 months ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

That's the question for sure... was this simply the issue from the factory?
I'd love to find a clear, thin washer that would fit a star post exactly. I'll see how the white nylon ones I got from Marco fit, if not I'll check out the amazon options. Seems like someone with a "good" condition playfield would at least benefit from a small washer under the narrow posts (as it seems the factory started doing at some point).
I'll update my image to add a note about the start post necessity.

That’s the key here. Before this got blown into a dozen solutions the issue was known and technically simple. The solid post JJP used is Technically the best solution as the base is solid and has a full contact compression. A wide star post (by math) while a larger diameter is Hollow and has a smaller dig in footprint. The root issue was the posts JJP installed had a poor injection mold edge which was Sharp. Add to that the assembly people over torqued them which acted like a sharp chisel cutting through butter!! So to solve this they added a soft washer to counteract the sharp edge, problem solved!

#476 7 months ago
Quoted from wesman:

Does this clearcoat seem any different to you compared to prior JJP games?

Nope no different. In fact basically the same as all vendors.

#655 7 months ago
Quoted from joseph5185:

LEGIT dude.. Like, it has a list and then it has arrows. It was still a little Greek at first, but then once I realized I was chasing the wrong cable and I actually saw a diagram of it I was like "oh."
THIS is a turning point to always resort to the book.
Now if I'm being honest, I don't always know where to start in that book. (The physical book) Probably easier to search on a pdf or something!
On to the next thing...
(I won't be able to play tonight with the gf sleeping. Tried that before...didn't end well.)

Just a suggestion to consider for your next adventure. Consider Starting with the manual to see what and Why you are taking stuff apart so you know where you are going. I understand reading the instructions before diving in is never fun but you may find Knowing what you will see before your tear into it might prove to be valuable strategy and less stressful. The manual (especially a JJP manual) will provide a rather clear picture most times.

#659 7 months ago
Quoted from zaphX:

It is one of the best technical manuals for a product I’ve seen. Butch Peel deserves as much credit for the thorough manual as Eric does for the excellent game design.

Agreed. Which is why I always wonder why the Manual is the last place owners will go when doing game service? lol I admit skipping instructions like asking for directions but if I was New to pinball That would be my starting point to learn what I am getting myself into....

#683 7 months ago
Quoted from LTG:

Oh lord. I do tech support for them too.
Please don't try and fix anything on that.
LTG : )

Award for post of the Month. That was TOOOOO funny and to the point correct. LTG you always make my day thank you!

He has 482 posts in the POTC thread in Under 30 days. I am Betting the Over that he can beat that in the AFM threads.....lol

#709 7 months ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

I feel like I need to keep reminding this thread that I'm not talking about the "pop". For a good 10 seconds or more after the power switch is flipped on my machine it makes many pops, cracks, loud whines, etc. My general volume is around 19 but I haven't been home to look at the individual levels, which has been discussed for another issue (audio clipping during the game). I haven't looked at the routing (nor changed it) of the audio cables, which I also intend to do. I mean, I obviously know what the pop sounds like.. my WMS games are very noticable and I could really care less about that, although it seems like it is somewhat easily solved on WMS games (per the other thread I linked) and probably should have been, and could be, solved on JJP games. I guess I'm anal, as apparently many pin folks are, so that would have been one of the things that I would have griped about during testing an original JJP game if that was my job. I mean, they revamped how a major pin manufacturer conceptualized componentry in an antiquated world, why still have the pop?
pinwoofer - how about offering a product to solve the pop? Might be a nice complement and I don't know of any other "audio" focused mod manufacturer so you seem like a natural fit. All of the older threads I've read from the WMS issue had bad links to people who maybe sold a solution at one time or another for WMS. I am betting that, much like your woofer kit, there could be a somewhat generic install that maybe just comes with the proper connectors for the various systems. You seem to have the knowledge and understanding of the audio and personally, if the cost was right, I'd be happy buying a kit if I didn't have to spend this tedious time trying to figure out how to resolve this. It seems like there are now (as compared to back when the WMS issue was hot) many options for these small chinese boards that do many, many things, so maybe there is a solution that can be easily produced. If not, it seems like the PCBs are stupid cheap to make... the prior thread (I think it was like 4-5 years old) had the cost of the PCB at like $30 a piece and there are only like 5 components on it.
Either way, I'll post my results when I get home. I've been kicking this around on reddit with folks way more qualified than I and they have proposed a few solutions but many of them above my pay grade, which is why I've been trying to source some sort of existing board. Since I don't know what exactly is causing my issue, and it could totally be a audio cable routing issue as it totally sounds like feedback, but I doubt I'll be able to get resolution any other way than fixing it myself. I'll definitely record it and post so everyone can hear and send it over to JJP for their comments, since the game is so new. But like I said, I'd nab 3 kits right now if they were $30. Heck, even if it was a componentry kit that I had to solder, if all the pieces were there and it was a printed PCB with clear instructions, sold. I mean, people are spending $60 on some plastic light up wands for TOM, $30 for a slick piece of componentry seems like nothing for this crowd.
(Oh.. and to clarify, I was lumping together the "pop" and the 10 seconds of craziness my game has in the "I'd pay $30 to fix this" because I was sort of falling back on the solution I am working on which is a power on delay circuit that would either keep the speakers from having audio or the amp from having power for X seconds after the game is turned on. I don't know, and reddit is mixed, if providing power to the amp later will still create the pop or if using a relay to disconnect the speakers will introduce another pop. The true fix for the pop on the WMS games seems to be something like this http://tuukan.fliput.net/nonoise_en.html and maybe that is the same for JJP, although the amp and such are completely different so not sure if it still applies)

HH. Have you tried all of the suggestions in the POTC owners thread already covered? From routing, unplugging cable etc already covered? Seems like this worked for most just not sure if you tried the simple solutions first. Again, with an issue specific topic like this its always best to start at the top of the thread and search the key word: IE; "Audio". This search in the owners thread offered Many solutions to this issue from owners, distributors, as well as JJP directly. Hope you can find a simple solution. Good Luck!

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jjp-pirates-of-the-caribbean-official-owners-and-fan-club?tq=audio&tu=

#727 7 months ago

Good man using that search function. Let us know if you have any issues with alignment. Need to sink that Dauntless!!! Congrats!

#762 7 months ago
Quoted from joseph5185:

FWIW,
Circling back to the potential MAP hole issues and the exposed screws.
I thoroughly inspected my balls before replacing and I didn’t notice any kind of damage.
I think this theory has been debunked that the MAP hole was causing issues with balls, but I said I would share.

Less then 4 hours ago and 20 posts you said you were just going to start playing your game? You came to this conclusion already??? Just poking at you, hope your playing the crap out of it with your tool box safely locked in the closet.

#763 7 months ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Hallelujah! I can make a tortuga hole shot now!! I'm not totally inept at pinball!
The replacement tortuga hole cover (snubber bracket) solves the issue!! Can't comment on the STDM yet, but the launch trajectory is definitely different.
New on left
[quoted image]
Closeup
[quoted image]
Oh and thanks to Steve at JJP for taking care of this so damn quick.

Called my distributor Mr awesome at KingPinGames and he has a new bracket on the way. Curious, what does this new design bracket help with? I assume bounce outs or something else.

#804 7 months ago
Quoted from zaphX:

I also have opinions about crazy.

Ok I keep wanting to look away from this thread but you keep firing off zingers that Make me not want to walk away. I am in tears laughing at this feedback. lol Sad but just can't turn away......

#805 7 months ago

I'd like to make a suggestion because I so sincerely love Lloyd and he Is celebrating 7 years of Awesome JJP service. To ensure Lloyd #LTG another 30 years of job security #joseph5185 should Exclusively use the link at the top of the Pinside forum "Dear Lloyd" for all of his CGC, JJP, hell ALL games contact! Your welcome Lloyd, its the least I can do because we love you so much and Never want you to leave!!!!

Screen Shot 2019-05-09 at 12.47.51 AM (resized).png
#809 7 months ago
Quoted from zaphX:

The game self-test is not a 100% indicator. Plenty of things can cause problems that don’t get caught by the test. For example, magnetized chrome balls.
The stuck spinner is a physical device. Look at it. Spin it with your finger. Find out what is binding it. It’s not something we can see from the picture.

Quoted from joseph5185:

You are correct, Sir.
I "thought" it was tight...but it definitely went tighter and it's NOT moving inside now. Thank you!
Oh...and I sort of fixed the left BP spinner.
So when I took this piece off, it spins very happy and freely. I guess somehow this plastic piece is binding in some way. Has this been discussed?
[quoted image]

This is feeling a bit like ground hog day... Not discussed in step by step detail but yes answered. Do NOT Take It Apart, Spin with finger and find out is and where it is binding! Bend, rubbing part as needed to make work correctly. Using your method, you did the opposite.... Don't think you'll follow this advise but what the heck. In Pinball, Don't start taking things apart till you know Why, and How and What the issue is. Then look, think, and adjust when you are Prepared to accomplish the task and know why your doing it. Worth a shot.

Ok, if ZaphX was serious, I am in for Half the cost of buying this. If only to Save it! lol

#821 7 months ago
Quoted from zaphX:

PROBLEM: Rubber in the star map / chapter select area is worn through.
SOLUTION: This is a lot of work and there's a lot that can go wrong, so be sure you're prepared...
1. Remove the Black Pearl (see other posts for this)
2. Block all the holes AND the rear orbit with shop towels. This is important!
3. Remove the 5 hex nuts that keep the plastic shield in place. Use a wrench under the plastic to hold the nut underneath when you remove the topside hex nut. Failure to do this will just cause the post to spin.
4. Once the plastic is free, lift up on the chest and rotate it clockwise to the metal bracket out of the way.
5. While everything is open, clean it! You won't get a better opportunity.
6. Replace the rubbers and reassemble in reverse order.
I failed to block the holes and I managed to lose a plastic post somewhere inside the bowels of the machine. I looked for it for over an hour, shook to listen for it, etc...never did find it. I happened to have the right post because I had spares from doing the star post mod so I eventually reassembled with one of those. Don't make the mistake I did!
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

I have been trying for hours to do this but I can't reach the BP. Was I suppose to take the glass off?? Plus, the ship keeps moving should I remove it when it sways left or right?

#823 7 months ago

I was kidding of coarse. I have a 4" pipe wrench on it now and all is good!

#852 7 months ago
Quoted from gumnut01:

Yes mine is level. It does not always go sdtm after star map but it happens often enough that it can ruin a game. It happened on my highest scoring game to date. Unlike a kick out, there is no deflector to adjust. There is no tinkering that can solve. I have a digital calibrated level. Game is 6.55 and level from side to side. Please people that do not have this happening, do not brush aside and say it’s not a problem. It is enough of a problem that multiple people have reported it. A configurable 2 second ball save is not going to affect you people who swear it never happens. You can have it turned off and not be affected. I have posted Keith but he has not responded. I hope this can be resolved. It’s not a deal breaker, just takes a bit of a shine off when it happens. Lyman knew this would happen during strobe Multiball in AFM so he added it. Sorry for going on, but it is disheartening to report something and then have it discounted by others.

Never discredit that someone has an issue. A game setup just .1 degrees different in any direction can yield different results so its understandable that some may have more issue then others. With that said I want to throw out a suggestion (not tested!!) to see if this Could solve this issue Now with minimal time and effort. The issue appears when the ball comes to rest after the bump around it flows perfectly to center. What if... you install a single clear plastic washer say 3/4" Under the post stud above the post sleeve. In theory, that would Just slightly push the ball resting position right or left depending on the side of issue. First you would need to determine does it more commonly happen when the ball comes to rest on the Left or Right of the post. Then install washer to the weak side. Just a thought and attempt to help those frustrated.

POTCCCC (resized).jpg
#855 7 months ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Unless really jostled to the right mine almost always sits on the left and that is where the STDM almost always, if not always, happens from. I was pondering something several posts back about putting something there and your concept seems like it could have some legs.

Just trying to offer suggestions. Please NOBODY let Joesph know we are working on another modification!!!! Not great at trigonometry any longer but it does seem like if you could offset that (in your case) left post to push the ball slightly right and at a different position on the drop post you might have a solution.

#857 7 months ago
Quoted from wesman:

I'm assuming the "discounted by others" might be more a reference to how joseph5185 gets constant flak for vocalizing issues he's had.

Only edit I would make to your story. to ISSUES HE CREATED! lol

#860 7 months ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

I should add that the rubber there is almost gone, so the ball sits way further left and up against the stand up target there. Likely this has some impact on it as well. Not sure what others are seeing there, but I still gotta bit that BP bullet and fix all those things (right spinner opto, cliffy install, t-nut, replace all rubbers). But... it's the only game that I own right now that is close to functional, lol. So I gotta put that off some more.

That stinks. I must say I always noticed and suspected that the games talk to each other! When one breaks I think they all decide to mess with you at the same time just to see that you pay them all attention.

#875 7 months ago
Quoted from Psw757:

Anyone able to identify these parts I found in cabinet?
Everything seems fine and could be junk from assembly but want to be sure.
[quoted image]

I say its a rubber ring and a screw! Winner!!! lol No idea may have been assembly drop ins on accident. Keep your eye on things and toss them in the coin box just in case.

#882 7 months ago
Quoted from Psw757:

Do you have a reference for the pearl schematic to see if both bushings are present?
Not sure why I’m not seeing this in the manual.

Post #399 of this thread OR simply click the image gallery found at the top of Any thread. Image with your part is shown.

#911 7 months ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Just the classic posts. I put 2 blue and 1 clear on each side to match the playfield sorta.
https://www.pinballlife.com/plastic-translucent-star-posts-1-116-tall.html[quoted image]

Thats an interesting look with the multicolor posts. Like it.

#913 7 months ago
Quoted from wesman:

I was going to use two blue in the water, and a red up top.
Considering there's so much plastic there, might as well make it more pleasant than just clear I felt.

I think the red would great with the blue.

#995 7 months ago
Quoted from JamCat:

Does anyone know if it's possible to install the starmap on an SE? Or is the SE missing the connectors and other essential hardware for it? I've been trying to get an LE or CE and just can't get my hands on one to save my life. As soon as one is listed it's sold in minutes. I've got all of the instant alerts setup, but still miss out every time. I was thinking of buying an SE and trying to upgrade it as an alternative. What else is missing off the SE besides startmap, powder coat topper, shaker and invisiglass?

Fairly sure you can't add the starmap but I think you will enjoy the SE fine without it. Comparison chart as this comparison question keeps popping up.

POTC-Matrix-New copy.pdf
#1062 7 months ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Maybe a loose nut on the pawl? Seems like that would be a consistent issue.

If the pawl nut was loose it would rotate out of alignment but would not cause it to get weaker in extended game play. LTG is on the right path.

#1113 6 months ago
Quoted from EaglePin:

Ha ha!!! You mean do it the easy way? I'm kicking myself for not thinking of that on my own. Thanks!

Or, you can start a catastrophe washer thread with thousands of the same solution! lol JK!

#1118 6 months ago
Quoted from joseph5185:

I looked and I’m pretty sure my CE does not have that washer either.
When I looked at your photo that washer seven being there in the first place didn’t seem necessary.

It’s actually Very necessary. If you think a post can dig in wait till you tighten a stainless guide with no washer. It will shear through like a guillotine. You need a washer there.

#1127 6 months ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Caught the ball skipping over the chapter select plastic. I don't know if you can get a good sense from the video, but it seems clear that the opto sensor is not the culprit. I can tell you the shot was fairly hard but clean. I can't tell precisely why it is riding up the ball guide. It obviously rides up and over the guide hits the star map and shoots back over the chapter select plastic. I can probably get this to happen once or twice a game. Any suggestions? I am guessing this isn't going to be good long term.
Skip ahead to like 1:19
https://photos.app.goo.gl/nKYfw8x7YGtg7cSz9

Dial down your flipper power. Just because they set a Standard setting doesn't mean its perfect for everyone. As is pinball, there are so MANY variables that effect the ball many of which are individually determined such as flipper rubbers used, flipper angle, flipper power, lever front to back, level side to side, playfield wax and probably 50 more that could be listed. Bottom line, if its hitting That hard (clearly) just dial it down a bit and move on. There doesn't always need to be a complicated solution to normal play. You need to be able to make the shots, not hammer them home. lol As is 101 trouble shooting you have to ask yourself Why is my game special and what was the last thing I did. As few if any have an issue like this you need to refer back to 101.

#1129 6 months ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

I should show you a video of the rest of the playfield. Chest is just makeable, the flipper power is definitely not crazy. They were on stock (when I got it they were turned way up and I was shooting out of the maelstrom). I just took them both down 2 below stock. Still doesn't seem crazy, but we'll play like that for a while and see.

Understood and while I don't know the scientific trig formula a simple Plus .2 degrees of playfield incline changes any coil setting plus or minus. If its hitting hard, (which in that video it appeared to be hammering the chest compared to mine) simply keep lowering power till all seems equal. Many confuse Default setting with Correct setting. Completely different.

#1156 6 months ago
Quoted from joseph5185:

So I don’t I know if it’s limited to just CE, but has anyone had any very noticeable vibration coming from the left side of the machine while playing?
I pointed out CE because I think it’s actually the barnacle on the left that is contributing.
Though, not an issue on the right.
Edit: I added the felt tape to the bottom of the machine. Perhaps, I could try adding in a few other places as well.

Musttttt Resist but mussst ask. Ok, do tell more. How is the barnacle creating vibration and I so want to hear about the felt tape slathered to the bottom of your machine and why.

#1166 6 months ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

All you ever wanted to know: https://www.pinballnews.com/learn/level/index.html
Basically, for side to side level use a spirit level at two places on the playfield directly, near the flippers and as close to the top as you can get. You need a inclinometer to do degree tilt or use the built in spirit level. There is a phone app that some people use, specific to pinball machine leveling, you might give that a shot... not sure of the name. Like PinballLevel or MrLevel or something maybe.

PinGuy App

#1219 6 months ago
Quoted from Breger1:

Sorry if this has been addressed somewhere else, I noticed my map not spinning consistently. Came to find the 2 screws holding the motor were out in the cabinet. Took it apart and put back in and gear alinged properly. Now it doesn't work at all. Is there a chance the motor went bad with the misalignment of the gear/grinding?

I suspect putting the screws back in moved the face of the small gear to high and it is binding against the Playfield. My guess is if you losses the 2 set screws on the small gear and lower it on the shaft it will work correctly. Before you take Anything apart see if this is the case by rotating the disk by hand. It should move freely and without rubbing. If by hand it moves freely then you popped the fuse associated on the main board. Simple fix. Good luck

#1339 6 months ago
Quoted from gumnut01:

Yep, it’s been fully accepted by the whole family now. Brothers, Australian Spotted Mist. Charlie, the lighter one, always gets up on top of the glass at an inopportune moment. Likes to have his but on the glass during multiballs. Best place to sit right on top of the flippers.

You need to tell him puss-n-boots was a buccaneer from a different movie stay off POTC! Lol

#1372 6 months ago
Quoted from tgrinchy:

Thanks guys - Yikes...I think you're probably right. Sounds like I'd have to destroy the map decal in the process to even check. Going to check in with my distributor and see what he thinks as well before I do anything.

You could get lucky and Hope the screw bites back down by holding the disk from spinning and tighten the shaft from below. I had a friend that the screw let loose and sadly the only option is a new disk decal to access the screw to shaft. Good luck.

#1374 6 months ago
Quoted from joseph5185:

Update on the chest issue...
I think it’s an issue? Only locking balls maybe 25% of the time from what I feel are “valid” shots. A “perfect” shot does seem to lock the ball. I’m just not sure how precise the shot is supposed to be.
So my game was at 5.9 pitch and it is now at 6.5. I lowered the left flipper from 20 to 18 and the right flipper from 22 to 18. Was unable to lock one ball with these settings so changed both back to 20 and can sometimes lock with both flippers.
I’m curious what others have their flippers at if it’s not too much to ask and I’m even more curious if others have the right flipper stronger than the left or vice versa. Is offsetting the flipper power “fairly common/expected” depending on the game?
I really wish I could get this chest accepting balls at even a slight improvement. It’s just difficult to gage what adjustment needs to be made to the forks. I tried to manually lock balls with the forks raised but that proved to be pretty impossible.
Is the only real way to use slow-motion video to try and figure it out? I’m open to any suggestions that maybe others have had success with. Even knowing if I should bend to the left or right would be helpful, but difficult to say I’m sure as it can vary from machine. I have removed the assembly once already and the forks “seemed” tight based on the nuts anyways.
Appreciate the listen and help. Getting this chest right would damn near make my game 100% and completely dialed in.

Ok unless I read that wrong it Seems like you are going the wrong direction. You adjusted your game pitch from 5.9 (way to low in my opinion) Up to 6.5 (I prefer 6.8) and Then reduced the flipper power?? When you increase the incline you need to also (most times) Increase the flipper power or I suspect you will never hit that chest. Go up and continue to go up until it goes in. Make sure your not flying off ramps and you should be good to go.

#1429 6 months ago
Quoted from joseph5185:

I was thinking 6.7 since 7 is my favorite number. Do you do 6.8 on pretty much all your pins?

Yeah, no rhyme or reason just easier for me to set all modern pins in the collection to the same number. For awhile I was constantly trying to dial one up another down but once you pass 20 machines (dam this addictive hobby...) you learn to just keep things as simple as possible. For me 6.8 on all works best and plays at a reasonable fast pace. For my older Bally games (80's) I go just under 6. Thats my crazy theory anyway.

#1431 6 months ago
Quoted from joseph5185:

Really quick...
Anyone experience an issue where the chest forks aren’t retracting down enough on the playfield which can cause the ball to get stuck back there?

Not sure I have ever experienced that however like most mechanical mechs simply move the forks up and down with your finger to see if they are dragging. If it is bend where needed or adjust. If it passes the finger test operate the mech in the test menu and adjust coil as needed.

#1464 6 months ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Ok, so how does one replace the pop bumper skirts? Do I really have to cut all of the lighting wires to release the skirt? I assume I'll have to desolder the motors from the spinning mechs, not entirely that bad but the lighting has 4 wires and not easy to get at. The other end is a plug I don't think I have tools to de-pin.[quoted image]

Im betting you have to desolder them from the bottom like a traditional pop bumper. Even if there was a plug I highly doubt its small enough to fit through the 1/8" holes in the pop body.

#1466 6 months ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

That one is ok, but the other two are wrecked so I was going to just pop on new ones I had. There is a plug.... but as with all pop bumpers there are two holes to thread the wires through and then those wires are joined at a plug. Even with a plug, there is no way to get that plug up through those holes. With normal pop bumpers you have to desolder or cut those wires to get them through the hole. Fine with 2 wires, but sucky with 4 wires. I'm guessing that is the only real option (other than de-pinning the plug).

FYI please I Hoping your doing a different color so I can get motivated to do mine. I SO think black would have looked better then the white they used.

#1467 6 months ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Nothing to desolder from except the light circuit board... seems sketchy.

But those wires have to go somewhere under the playfield. Maybe a simple pin extractor to pull them from the molex plug below.

#1473 6 months ago
Quoted from Heater:

OMG! This is really embarrassing. My upper barrel has never spun since I got it in January and never knew it was supposed to. Going to have to look and see why. Wow, I'm a winner!

Likely the setscrew in the top edge came loose. Good luck.

1 week later
#1544 6 months ago
Quoted from joseph5185:

Haha. That easy?
Mine went from difficult to impossible after adding height to the playfield to fix plunger.
Will definitely try this. Only issue for me with not locking it down is the yellow lever can interfere with the coin door which in turn makes it so the action button doesn’t always register.

You are correct. If you add secondary foam or other to the lock bar lifting up on the lock bar you will Need to also adjust the lock button to register correctly. You are Learning young Yoda!!! You have come along way Sincerely love to see how fast you are picking things up soon you will be the next LTG!

1 week later
#1663 5 months ago
Quoted from gumnut01:

bloody stupid place for a spot.

That was the First issue I had out of the box. Ball got stuck every hit towards the spot lamp. I ended up rotating it full towards the back and the plastic slightly lifts it up and no longer a ball catch. Its the simple things that can be frustrating. lol

1 week later
#1747 5 months ago
Quoted from Soulrider911:

Hey scallywags ‍☠️, need your help.
Problem 1:
—- Ball getting stuck on post in starmap
Symptoms: I noticed today that my ball frequently gets sick between the post and left post with runner in the star map area. I looked close at my friends today and it just may be that my posts on that left side are too tall... allowing the ball yo get wedged in between the post and the rubber?
Problem 2:
—- Dead mans chest having issues releasing locked balls when 3 locked
Symptoms:
3 balls locked in chest, chest attempts to release via mini magnet and it just buzzes then stops, buzzed then stops... as balls SLOWLY wiggle their way towards the left exit. Finally after about 10 second they will come out. Interestingly I tested it hand launching them in and works fine totally lost on this one.
LOVE ANY HELP thank you ! Happy 4th
Love any help

On condition 1 make sure your drop post is centered and the height is properly adjusted and tight.

On condition 2 can we assume you didn't buy new shiny magnetic balls for your game? Several posters have gone for days trying to adjust every setting only to find out the balls were magnetized. I only ask because doing them by hand works. If that is not the case have you tried adjusting that coil?

#1765 5 months ago
Quoted from Lermods:

What's the fix for this sticky flipper? Tried to shorten the spring, didn't work. When the playfield is lifted it snaps back ok, when playfield is down it sticks sometimes. I tried raising the flipper just a bit, didn't fix it. Thx[quoted image]

Only suggestion would be to check your coil sleeve, check the spring, make sure the guide to flipper gap is correct or call #LTG after midnight! Lol. I’m sure you can fix this though good luck.

#1783 5 months ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

So... can someone else look to see this is happening on their game? The chest latch bangs right in to the first opto. Seems like that is going to break in no time. Solution? None I can think of aside from redesigning the release mech, which I've sort of been looking in to. Keep watching the video, I grabbed a flashlight.. my battery was almost dead, couldn't use the flash and I thought I could catch it without more light.

Not sure what I am looking at but looks like every coil mech I have ever seen? While you can redesign Every bracket on a game at some point what was designed is actually good enough for a game. If I was taking it into battle or sailing it across an ocean maybe fortifying every mech might be necessary but in this case it seems like it has worked this long....

#1785 5 months ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

The first opto sits right between the chest and the ball release mech. When the release closes (back in to closed position) it bangs right in to the back of that opto. Watch the opto move when the latch bangs in to it. It's the small black plastic piece on the left.
So it's not a bracket issue, it's a spacing issue. Everyone's chest bracket is fine too, until they start sheering off. Probably most won't even notice. It's obvious we can't just say, well the game was designed this way. It has flaws.

Harry do note I wasn't trying to dissagree or say the game is perfect I said I didn't know what I was looking at. Feel free to redesign. I was simply pointing out in time ALL parts will break so it's basically like chasing a squirrel. There is a reason companies like Pinball Life, Happ, the OEM's etc make replacement parts. They will all break its the nature of the beast we call Pinball. The metal ball always wins.

#1801 5 months ago
Quoted from 3pinballs:

Problem fixed. Talked to Butch at JJP.
We had to remove the upper playfield. Underneath the playfield , which I would have taken a pic, in the center of the playfield there are 2 metal pins/rods. 1 is located near the top, near backglass, and one near bottom near flippers.
The pins have to go into the mounted hole plates. Mine was underneath the one near the flippers and not inside the hole, causing it to sit too low and balls getting stuck.
My friend got his game the other day and the same thing happened on his, but the tech was able to slide the playfield back towards backglass, then towards front of game and it went in without having to take then upper playfield off.[quoted image][quoted image]

Awesome write up. Thanks for sharing your fix!

#1805 5 months ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Ok, wait... am I missing something? Aren't we just talking about reinstalling the BP back in to the mounting pins how it should sit? Or was it this way from the factory?

Yes he was sharing how to adjust the BP if the gap is off nothing major but helpful. Not everything needs to be a complete overhaul sometimes just a helpful support document. lol Appreciated.

1 week later
#1843 4 months ago
Quoted from statsdoc:

That hasn't fixed this completely for me. Would the next best option be to turn down the sling power?

What worked for me..... may not for everyone is to simply (slightly!) increase the 2 blade switch gaps. The objective was to make the ball compress the rubber ever so slightly more which decreased the fire range of the arm. Again, may not work for all but this simple adjustment (with a finger) worked well for me and no issue again.

1 week later
#1864 4 months ago
Quoted from tgrinchy:

So I’m starting to experience intermittent stuck flipper on the right side of the BP.
Pressing the coil shaft all the way in with my finger causes some resistance and can stick if push in the full throw. Is lube a bad idea or what would be best route to address?

What everyone said and do Not use lube on flipper mechs!

#1871 4 months ago
Quoted from tgrinchy:

Wow, thanks everyone - a wealth of great info! I’ll give these a shot when I remove the BP again.

If your more of a see it done kind of person I strongly suggest watching master LTG's flipper setup video. As I suspect your flipper may simply be binding in the nylon guide this may help get you going. FYI your POTC did not come with the tool he mentions but a simple plastic credit card will work just as well. Good Luck.

#1873 4 months ago
Quoted from Heater:

Two questions I hope can be answered.
I noticed the Star Map pop up post comes up ok, but has become slow and even hesitates half way down before it fully retracts. What should I look for?
Second, and a minor one, I have yet to have any of the patches or pirate hat show up on a picture since the update. Does anyone think adjusting the sensitivity of the camera would give a better chance for it to happen?

Best I could suggest is make sure the post (#3) is not rubbing and is centered on the hole in the playfield. Its possible your coil sleeve may be gnarled up (#5) but try centering first. As for the pics, sadly I haven't played well enough to warrant a photo capture lately..... Good Luck.

Screen Shot 2019-07-28 at 11.59.06 PM (resized).png
#1881 4 months ago
Quoted from Maide:

I finally took my BP off the game to try to fix some of the issues I've been having with one of the Bonus X stand-ups. I thought it was just gaped too far, but upon closer inspection it's just mounted on the mini playfield too close to the rubber, so it will only activate with strong pressure.
[quoted image]
I tried loosening and pushing it further to the right, but as soon as I get tighten the screw at all it goes right back; the bracket doesn't really allow for any horizontal adjustment. Not sure what can be done but filling the old screw holes and mounting it again?
I also wanted to ask if both BP flippers were supposed to have the same amount of movement, or if my left flipper's movement is intentionally shorter? [quoted image]
The right flipper has a ton more movement in my game, and I can't remember if the left flipper was always this way, or something that has gotten worse over time..

Left and right flipper are the same on the BP. I suspect your Left flipper is at the end of travel (the flipper itself) against the rubber on the playfield which is not letting the plunger fully release. Adjust the flipper topside with the pawl nut below and I am betting you will be good.

#1882 4 months ago
Quoted from Maide:

I finally took my BP off the game to try to fix some of the issues I've been having with one of the Bonus X stand-ups. I thought it was just gaped too far, but upon closer inspection it's just mounted on the mini playfield too close to the rubber, so it will only activate with strong pressure.
[quoted image]
I tried loosening and pushing it further to the right, but as soon as I get tighten the screw at all it goes right back; the bracket doesn't really allow for any horizontal adjustment. Not sure what can be done but filling the old screw holes and mounting it again?
I also wanted to ask if both BP flippers were supposed to have the same amount of movement, or if my left flipper's movement is intentionally shorter? [quoted image]
The right flipper has a ton more movement in my game, and I can't remember if the left flipper was always this way, or something that has gotten worse over time..

On the upper skull switch your best option would be to simply set the contact gap closer so the target throw to activate would be greatly reduced vs trying to move the switch. Good Luck.

#1885 4 months ago
Quoted from Maide:

I'm afraid that I'd have to make it so sensitive that non-hits would trigger it; as it is, you have to press down the right-side hard to make it trigger. Dang. I'll try contacting JJP and see if they have any ideas.

Thanks, I'll make them the same, just need to figure out how much of a flip that is haha. For the rest of your comment, do you mean the left in my picture (which is the right flipper when not upside-down), or the right in my picture (normally left)? The left in my picture is the flipper that has much greater amount of movement, but maybe it flips too far? The right (in-picture) is the one that flips less.

I was referring left or right that the flipper bat throw from the Top needed to be adjusted so they don't bottom out before the plunger can fully extend. In your picture (bottom side) the coil plunger is not fully extended meaning that (right or left) flipper is hitting full travel to soon. Hope that makes sense.

1 week later
#1929 4 months ago
Quoted from dts:

Question for this thread. I am having inconsistent firing of the ship VUK. If I land it in the hole from the shooter lane, it doesn't always register. Lift up the machine and it fires, but tilt warnings. Tried messing with the opto, checked to see if the ball is getting stuck. Anyone else have this problem?

Hard to describe but a local friend had the same issue granted his game was set up Steep at close to 8 degrees. Feeding the VUK going backwards is a clear plastic flap. His was slightly bent up. A small heat source like a hair dryer and I was able to bend it down slightly and stay and the problem went away. Hope this helps.

1 month later
#2090 87 days ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

Agree. The problem is not the magnet, the ball gets lost when the magnet releases the ball. The ball is supposed to go into the subway that feeds the VUK. This is where the ball is getting lost. Not sure if the ball just hangs outside the subway for a while or if it’s getting stuck in the subway somewhere, somehow.

I believe this issue was covered several times in these threads but from memory you start with making sure your game is level left to right, Not pitched to steep 6.7 ish (balls don’t run uphill in VUK trough) and adjust or shim the clear plastic trough flap so the ball rolls towards the vuk. Fairly certain others documented this fix in detail just didn’t find it. Good luck

#2092 87 days ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

Really interested in the adjustment of the clear plastic subway. We’ll search for it. Thanks!

I know for mine there is a straight (about 1” wide) flap on the clear subway. That flap did not lay flat against the metal VUK rather it was raised a bit not letting the ball on occasion roll back. For me, I pulled it and using a hair dryer used a bit of heat to lightly bend it down. Reinstalled and never an issue again. Others I believe simply added washers or the front corners to taper it back mechanically. Hope this helps.

#2111 84 days ago
Quoted from Skipnatty:

All things check out except mech doesn't really move freely up and down, it's a bit choppy in its movement if I move it by hand. Screws are all there and tight.
Is there an idea around how far under the playfield the forks should be sitting while in the down position so as to calibrate how far up they throw when activated? There's essentially a "point of no return" where if I push the forks up too high, releasing the clasp does nothing and they don't fall to their home position.

As HH pointed out you may need to do some careful bending to the forks so they are centered on the slots. You know you are there when they do not hit the sides and it moves freely. Until that happens it will never work perfectly.

#2116 83 days ago
Quoted from DerGoetz:

JJP POTC PLAYFIELD "BANDAID" GUIDE
Was thinking about making this a new post but decided to squeeze it in here instead. This will be a longer one.
First of all, I was one of those who got a call from Jack after I filed a claim through their website and supplied photos of my Collector's Edition pooled and chipped playfield.
Backstory: Before I ordered my POTC CE through Joe Newhart I asked Joe what would happen should my CE look like the CE that I had just played (January 2019) at the Durham Boxcar Barcade before I picked up the phone to order one from Joe.
That one at Boxcar showed heavy pooling in multiple places.
I made it clear that I would not take the risk of purchasing should the situation not be under control and should there be no adequate support. I was told that SINCE it was the Collector's Edition I would be experiencing preferred treatment should anything happen in regards to the playfield.
Now here we are, I own a heavily pooled POTC CE, in one place there is chipping and I have Jack on the phone.
And he said his piece, offered me a new playfield. I kindly explained that not him, nor Joe nor I myself will have the time to install a playfield here at my house and that the offer is not good enough as it has no immediate value, having the playfield repopulated would cost me a further expense of at least US$1000 and why should these US$1000 come out of MY pocket?! There is three parties involved here and I am the one taking the biggest hit??
To say that we had a discussion would be an exaggeration. He said his piece, offered me a new playfield and would not reply nor react to my concerns. Instead he wished me a good day an hung up.
Joe was on a well deserved vacation and I made sure to contact him and Jack via email. I shared, twice, my concerns with Joe, that offering a playfield is unacceptable for a Collector's Edition customer who paid such a premium and was promised preferred treatment should EXACTLY this happen. When I emailed Joe I had JJP in the CC to keep it fair and transparent. They did not address my concerns.
Instead I was told that the replacement playfield is being made in the near future and will be coming my way. Oh, good to know.....a one sided agreement, that is new to me.
Now, I have never been treated by a company like that before. A complete one-way conversation with a one-way solution at a 12.5k pricepoint. They did not try nor want to discuss with me what I would feel an adequate solution would be. I was force fed their preferred solution.
So be it. I'm a quick learner.
Let's tackle that playfield as I sure as heck will NOT do a swap.
First I ordered that Iron that you guys recommended, was it Vireland or Houdini?
[quoted image]
I then got, from https://www.microfasteners.com/neoprene-bonded-steel-washers.html their size 10 rubber-backed washers.
[quoted image]
From Jersey Jack their POTC post kit (Thank you JJP, you guys sent it out next day and it was here in no-time, now THAT is service!!!)
[quoted image]
Both slings were pooled, the left one had a nasty chip. I'm only showing the left side to make it at least a bit shorter of a post.
I removed the posts.
[quoted image]
And that showed me how much that pooling had pulled the paint and clear back
[quoted image]
Now it was time to heat up that iron and press down for only a few second.
[quoted image]
Hard to see but the pooling was completely flattened, all that was left was the slight indent of the post in the wood. NICE!
Of course there was little I could do about the chipping.
[quoted image]
But I was going to install the star posts and washers that JJP supplied
[quoted image]
NICE!!!!!
Now for the posts:
There are two kind, the ones that end in Blind Nuts (short posts) and the ones that go through the playfield, show a washer and Lock Nut under the playfield (long posts). Those are typically the ones that are to be moved in and out to close and open the outlanes.
Heavy pooling in all locations on the lower part of the playfield.
[quoted image]
etc....
For the short ones (ending in the Blind Nuts) I used the small plastic washers that JJP supplied as there was no room to add the rubber-backed ones.
First step flattening, the pooling again was completely gone, only the indent wood remained
[quoted image]
Then I added the JJP washers
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
For the adjustable posts (long) I used the rubber-backer #10 washers.
[quoted image]
Pooling
[quoted image]
Flattened
[quoted image]
Install
[quoted image]
Done and I am happy with it.
To make it clear as I know that some of you will already be foaming at the mouth:
Crap happens! And I know it. It happens in my line of work all the time, Murphy's law is in full effect - always.
Now it is up to the manufacturer and dealer on how to make it right by the customer.
It was disappointing is that I as an owner of a Collector's Edition - who even brought THIS EXACT scenario up before purchase - got the standard treatment, no discussion. We did not even agree on anything, they "agreed for me"
Again, I am fine with the way the playfield repair turned out, I can now look at my POTC and smile again, all is forgotten when it comes to the pinball itself. What I am not fine with is this "Collector's Edition" experience that I had the pleasure to experience.

Glad to see it worked for you. I have since tested the hardness in that area with a shore hardness tester and it proved much harder granted not a scientific test. One add on thing I did (which I have not finished testing) is after using the iron I used a UV curing lamp (for nails) placed over the spots. That Drastically hardened the areas but I will add detailed info to the link I already started on the DIY thread.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/diy-playfield-post-repair-and-chip-proofing-how-to-all-brands

FYI, would love your feedback on that thread to help others. Many have a fear of the word "Iron" which should more be considered a "Press".

#2118 83 days ago
Quoted from MurphyPeoples:

Got one too! It worked great on my Beatles Gold with pooling - which was out of warranty. Looking forward to seeing YeloBirds UV curing lamp as well.[quoted image]

HEY! For the Record, its my Wifes curing lamp!! I haven't done my nails in Years!! lol

#2120 83 days ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

Does anyone know yet if this issue is due to too short of a cure time, or if it’s a crap clear composition?

Only based on My machine (in this case a Wonka and Beatles) the areas where the clear was directly on wood I have no pooling. Wood to ink print with clear over.....Thats another story. They are all pooled or indented. Not saying thats the case for JJP for certain but from what I have seen and fixed if there is art under the clear its a swimming pool.

#2132 82 days ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

Where did you guys purchase your irons from?

From post 2116 above all info is in that thread if your interested. Repairing another pair of Wonkas and a POTC today. Almost as fun as playing them! NOT!

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/diy-playfield-post-repair-and-chip-proofing-how-to-all-brands

#2134 82 days ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

Awesome, Thanks Dave! Is there a risk of the clear pooling again after this fix? I was thinking that cutting the clear around the hole (on the inside part) and securing the area with glue might help the clear stay put for good.

Personally I would Strongly recommend Not cutting anything as there is No going back from that! For my option and my results a have had it Pressed to gone for close to 2 months now and I see No further issues thus far. No pooling and luckily before any chipping occurred. Time will tell I guess. Rather simple to do though. Not to call them out but one of the distributors requested I give them a full on kit and they have opted to take the initiative themselves to unbox ever game in stock and mend them all to better serve their customers. Rather awesome to see in my book and no easy task.

2 weeks later
#2173 66 days ago
Quoted from MurphyPeoples:

Okay I started having trouble in two areas - 100 plays into ownership and need a guiding hand...
1. Balls draining down the middle aren't registering once they enter the ball trough. I'm going to check level on the playfield tomorrow and insure left to right is good. Do I need to clean an opto as well? The problem is intermittent, and shaking the game to the point of tilt helps the opto trough identify the ball.
2. The Chest will not release captured balls all of a sudden. Was working great, but now won't release. If my ball in play drains, the magnetic switch will click on and off trying to get the balls out. Can someone point me to the pictures of where we are supposed to lightly bend back the metal tab holding the balls? I'll also check to make sure the Magnet is fully engaging the release mech too. I really feel that this Chest issue should be a sticky in post number 1. Can't find it in the thread.... but I know it's there. Many on the "fan" thread though?
Thanks so much in advance!
Murph

Both symptoms sound like the balls are magnetized. Just a guess. Hope you figure it out.

#2180 66 days ago
Quoted from MurphyPeoples:

Thanks for all the great replies!! I will check for magnetized balls. Why would magnetized balls not allow a drain to register in the trough? Just curious. Also when I do drain and it doesn’t register, I’ve let the game sit idle for more than 20 seconds before shaking the pin near tilt for it to find the ball.
I’ll let you know the status. And thanks for the bending tip for the small magnet on the chest!

My guess is the trough is metal and magnets stick to metal?

#2207 63 days ago
Quoted from MurphyPeoples:

Okay - for those guru's that guessed I had Magnetized Balls.... you are RIGHT! Every single ball is magnetized. Some balls only in ONE SPOT - which would
explain the randomness of the balls not draining in the trough. I don't know if I've solved it, as I have no "new balls". I'll be running by Marco Specialties after lunch tomorrow ( On Friday's I work about 5 miles from their shop). Should I just order a sleeve of their Standard Silver Jets? Or a Special ball of some type?
Here's the thing - I've got less than 100 plays on the machine. Weird that they would magnetize so quickly. Should I expect to have to change them every 100 games?
More to come tomorrow - after I load in 5 new ball! : )
Murphy[quoted image]

Thanks for taking the time to post this and illustrate. I suspect many problems happen due to this issue. Nice to see it shared visually for all. Thanks.

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