(Topic ID: 240503)

jjPirates of the Caribbean Troubleshooting/Tips/Issues jjPotC Tech

By vireland

1 year ago

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5 key posts have been marked in this topic

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Post #306 Tip on removing the black pearl Posted by rs812 (1 year ago)

Post #501 More tips on removing black pearl mini playfield Posted by LTG (1 year ago)

Post #1776 Broken trunk mount bracket picture Posted by Soulrider911 (1 year ago)

Post #2470 JJP kit information for doing 220v to 110v conversion. Posted by Vitty (1 year ago)

Post #2844 Auto-launch misfire adjustment. Posted by Yelobird (9 months ago)

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#8 1 year ago

Oh man! These are fantastic detailed posts! Really glad you took the initiative and put in all this work.

Thank you vireland and zaphx! And everyone else that has helped bring/correct these issues along this long road.

#22 1 year ago

Duly noted and edited! (I've properly flogged the person posting on my behalf with an oversized mackerel!) It's amazing how much effort zaphx put into that spreadsheet! He spend months compiling issues relentlessly!

We've got some really solid techs in this thread! Reminds me of the many awesome helpful folks in the Houdini thread also!

(Damn these mackerel bruises are purple already! Oops, I meant my EX employee's mackerel bruises!)

#28 1 year ago
Quoted from vireland:

Yes. A lot of them are from the list he compiled. I invited him to post the info he had compiled and I'd link it, but he's burned out on PotC tech, so he said I could do it for him, which is fine. I just want to get all the info in one place and add pictures and video where possible.

I'm only on a couple weeks of firsthand stuff here, so I can imagine he'd be pretty drained in this area. He was working on those for months it seemed.

You've been doing an excellent job yourself all along as well! I know that other user had some great map and tortuga Cliffy installation too!

Quoted from vireland:

It feels like they're rushing these out the door to get to Wonka with minimal QA (at least not the usual level of JJP QA I've known in the past), so I don't think the date helps much. The one we got was 2/11/19 and it had a bunch of issues to correct out of the box. Nothing hard, just a bunch of niggly things that would have been obvious if it had been played.

Mine was 1/21/19, and so far hook alignment issues and sagging monitor. Not bad, but not anything that should ideally exist for a new owner.

#125 1 year ago
Quoted from vireland:

PROBLEM: Balls getting stuck in the round hole under the Pearl by the wiring harness
SOLUTION: Two possibilities for this.
Tip 1
Buy a plastic shield for the underside of the black pearl that prevents the ball from bouncing back and getting under the Black Pearl.
Tip 2
Bundling this wire loom plastic to gather the wires together will protect the wires from wear and possibly stop balls from getting stuck there.
This loom product on Amazon may help you achieve this:
amazon.com link »

Should the cable ties be snipped when installing this loom, or be kept as they are?

How long-ish would you recommend cutting and using for this implementation?

Quoted from vireland:

PROBLEM: Tortuga saucer sending the ball SDTM
SOLUTION: Most likely the ball deflector/guide at the back of the Tortuga saucer is loose or mis-aligned. Remove Tortuga Tom and loosen the pop bumper to gain access to the two phillips screws for the deflector that's slightly under the pop bumper skirt. Aim the guard a bit to the left. Test and ensure the scoop fires into the middle of the left flipper. Consider blue loctite to make the fix permanent.
Here's how you get the pop bumper apart to gain access to the two screws:
This is the deflector that you may need to tighten and/or adjust the direction it's pointing:
[quoted image]
These are the screws you need to tighten once the deflector is where you want it:
[quoted image]
There's a single #1 phillips screw each at the front and back of the barrel you need to remove:
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
Once the barrel is off, you see a mounting plate, but the hex set screw that holds it on is hidden underneath it. Feel for it and use a hex wrench to loosen it, then slide the mounting plate up and off:
[quoted image]
This is a better look at the set screw once the plate is off:
[quoted image]
There are now two motor screws to remove. READ THE NEXT STEP BEFORE DOING THIS ONE:
[quoted image]
Under each screw holding the motor on, there's a nylon spacer. Be careful to hold the spacer as you lift the screw out so you don't lose the spacer in the machine:
[quoted image]
Lift the motor up a bit and set it to the side, which will expose the screws for the pop bumper. LOOSEN, DO NOT REMOVE THEM. Once loose, you can raise the skirt in the front where the two screws are for the deflector and tighten/adjust as-needed:
[quoted image]
Reverse the process to put it all back together.

These are the same steps to install the Cliffy, yes?

#129 1 year ago
Quoted from zaphX:

I did not cut anything to install the loom. I eyeballed the amount of cable, cut off a length of loom to match, and installed it from under the playfield sliding it up. 2 minute fix and avoids a potentially serious problem.

Ooooh. So no ship removal, eh? (Though I've already taken it off twice.).

Have you had your plastic under the ship creak at all?

Quoted from rs812:

I like this kind of wire loom, also.
amazon.com link »

Have you used this type before? I'd imagine it's more flexible than the other?

#133 1 year ago
Quoted from zaphX:

Nope, I have not removed this ship at all for any reason, knock on wood. No creaking either.

Oh good for you! It's not the worst thing, if you end up needing to, it's more a pain in the ass freeing and pulling the proper wire bundles underneath apart for the first time. Then the dreaded resetting of the ship on the eyelets, which have been pretty cruddy both times I've done it.

Quoted from rs812:

I have and it works great. It is much more forgiving than the corrugated plastic. I think it looks better, too.

Excellent! So I assume you got the 1" and 10 feet of it? I can see where the mesh would allow less friction. Cancelled the order of the other I just put in an hour ago, and will get this.

#138 1 year ago
Quoted from Hogey:

Haven't seen this issue mentioned. Received my Pirates a week ago. Great game. Had a couple small issues that my distributor was all over and took care of. One issue I still have is the monitor not being level. After I "lock" the monitor in place (meaning the brackets on the left and right side are pushed down and engage the "posts" on the monitor), the monitor is not level (lower on the right side). There is "slop" or "play" if you will (meaning that the monitor can still move up and down and back and forth even though it is supposedly locked. I've tried to wedge some foam under the right side of the monitor to jack it up and that has helped some, but it's not right. Anyone else have this problem? A friend has a DI and advised that that monitor has 2 posts on each side that are engaged by the brackets, which alleviates the problem. Not sure what to do about it.
One other small issue, is that when my machine arrived, one of the lanterns on the mini ship deck was broken off and loose on the playfield. JJP sent me a new lantern, but the problem is that it broke off at the base (leaving the "peg" in the hole with no way to get it out). See pics. I removed the two screws on the plastic above it thinking this would remove it so I could get at it from below, but no such luck.
Thank you.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

I know yelobird posted, along with others, in the other thread, to pull the monitor forward, loosen the four nuts on the mounting bracket, readjust and tighten.

#164 1 year ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

Did you ever get that playfield into the lock bar receiver? How did you fix it?

I loosened and removed screws in the lockdown bar assembly, and the receiver, until I could loosen and shift the three main nuts that turn into "buttons" on the front of the cabinet. I slid it over just a bit to the left, and refastened those three main bolts. The three woods screws at the bottom of the receiver assembly will most likely be left out, rather than drill or drive new holes into the front of the cabinet.

I still need to reassemble the lockdown bar assembly, and make sure the lockdown bar itself can fit in appropriately, but I'm waiting to do that for a bit while installing some Cliffy's and waiting on parts/tools.

Thank you for inquiring. If you have any other questions, feel free to fire away.

#166 1 year ago
Quoted from BC_Gambit:

Good to hear! Test fitting the lock down bar should not be a time consuming thing. Fingers crossed it fits!

Or having the playfield hooks sit without spending two hours. I have no idea if it left like that or was jostled during shipping. Certainly an issue I didn't forsee.

Now the monitor sag I still need to correct, yeah....that I'm not surprised by. Not pleased, but not surprised either.

Thank you for the good vibes!

#171 1 year ago
Quoted from Hogey:

Talked to JJP today. Was advised that the "arm" that holds the monitor is defective. They had sporadic issues of this previously. They're sending a new arm to fix the problem. Adjusting the brackets was not a fix for this particular problem.

Glad you called and got feedback! Whom did you speak with there? I need to make a call myselt. Thank you for posting this prior to me getting this "fixed" but seemingly not fixed. Phew!

#173 1 year ago

So my playfield is seated now, receiver installed, but now the lockdown bar won't raise fully while trying to insert it.

This causes the door to not close, as well as the yellow handle pointing all the way down, and even a smidge to the left, so it's hitting coin mech wires, and brushes against them while trying to close to door, which doesn't full close/lock.

I've read this might be an issue with the gap I have in the glass not sliding into the trim channel. There is an 1/8" visible gap between the glass and the channel. I've also read adjusting the lockdown bar screws or even pressing down on the bar and pulling the handle might help....


#174 1 year ago

This yellow handle seems way too far out to close. I'm afraid it's due to having to adjust the receiver to the left. Not sure. Playfield glass still has a gap and doesn't slide into the trim though.


#177 1 year ago
Quoted from heni1977:

wesman I will take a look at mine tonight see if I can help out!

Thank you sir! It's appreciated.

Quoted from Pinballomatic:

You can move the entire receiver up or down too - I think I’m way too late with advice on this one but there’s lots of things to adjust if needed

I hadn't noticed that. Even on Pirates? You mean regarding the three large bolts that extend out to the front of the cabinet? What effect might that have?

#181 1 year ago
Quoted from Pinballomatic:

You can raise or lower the entire receiver assembly which would help with getting the lockbar on over the glass if needed

Quoted from Pinballomatic:

Remove the 1/4 inch shipping screws on either corner they are just for shipping to hold extra tight

The bar fits over and sits fine, it initially didn't due to one of the tabs being bent. This is more an issue of the lockdown bar when engaged, sitting straight down and to the left.

I removed those, to shift the receiver to the left. At that point I wasn't able to meet their holes, so had left them out. I ran that by Lloyd, and Eric too the other night, to make sure they weren't weight bearing in any way.

I don't have a photo right now of the handle when engaged, but it's basically straight down, and a few degrees to the left, towards the coin op mech. When engaged, should it be straight down entirely or pointing towards the plunger a bit?

#190 1 year ago

Yeah, mine is drastically pointing down almost straight.

Feeling kinda clueless as to correct this.

#192 1 year ago

This was it when I received it. It's around the same now.
image000000_10 (resized).jpg

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#195 1 year ago
Quoted from AUKraut:

Yours is definitely off. Will it move further counterclockwise with the lockdown bar removed?

From what I recall, that position there is about the furthest to the left it will go...

Eek, sorry I think I was confused there. When it's not engaged it goes up this far.

Quoted from joseph5185:

Random question ...
There is a molex connector that doesn't have a friend (unplugged) towards the bottom of the coin door.
What's that about?

From what I know, it's there for the bill collector add-on.

20190417_122327 (resized).jpg
#204 1 year ago
Quoted from heni1977:

wesman here are a few pics of my lock down bar. It does appear that my pf sits all the way against the bar when it is down. Screws are 1/4 inch out lock bar is 2 1/2 from right/s of cab.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Oooh! Thanks for taking all of those photos and measurements! My lockdown bar handle, sits about the same then, when it's not engaged.

Can you take a snap of where the yellow handle is when the bar itself is on?

My hooks are about where yours are, now, after adjusting the receiver.

Thank you again!

#207 1 year ago
Quoted from Pinballomatic:

On Wonka they switched to magnetic latches instead of the clips.

Rather than playfield hooks or for the lockdown bar handle?

#211 1 year ago
Quoted from heni1977:

There you go.
[quoted image]

Deeeeeeefinitely farther right than mine. Second today. I'm going to have to do what Lloyd suggested earlier, lift the playfield, then place the lockdown bar on, and try to see what's happening.

Thanks for that photo!

#212 1 year ago
Quoted from heni1977:

There you go.
[quoted image]

Can you do me one last favor? Please take a shot of how far your glass fits into the trim just below backglass. Mine has a gap.


I took a staple out two weeks ago, but just found this weird stuff in the upper right, in a photo I took that night.


#221 1 year ago

So...... Finally I think I've resolved my lockdown bar/coin door/playfield hook situation.

Thanks to LTG vireland Pinballomatic Bublehead Heni1977 and anyone else that offered advice, insight, and most of all patience.

Long story short, when I received the game three weeks ago tomorrow, the yellow handle on the lockdown bar, wasn't engaged. (As seen in the photo with the plastic on the lockdown bar).

I own one game, but didn't realize how much of an issue that was, as I was still able to push the coin door closed, while brushing the mech.

My issues at that point were largely the playfield hooks not resting, and the lockdown bar not sitting.

After looking at the lockdown bar itself, the one tab was crooked, so I bent that slightly and now that seated fine. Unfortunately, the playfield itself still wasn't.

Through advice, I adjusted the position of the receiver, to the left. Doing so allowed the hooks to rest in a way that didn't take hours of pushing, loom adjustment, etc.

After that I inspected the trim channels for debris, possibly blocking the glass from meeting entirely at the back. Other than the staple I'd removed prior, nothing existed.

So again based on advice, I shifted the receiver as far upwards as I could, possibly just 1/8-1/4" more than it had been seated prior. Doing so allowed me to see the sliding spring loaded bar itself in the mechanism, wasn't high enough to allow the tooth of the lockdown bar's tabs, to slot in towards the right when pressure is placed to properly seat the bar.

I did notice the filament inside the brass screw housing extends past and outside of those nuts. Which to me seems to also not allow the height of the spring bar to raise slightly further, allowing the teeth of the tabs to meet effortlessly.

So now with firm pressure, not at all with ease, when glass is inserted I can slide the yellow handle to the left, thus allowing the lockdown bar to fully be engaged.


The top photo is how it sits now.

The bottom is how it arrived.
20190418_041702 (resized).jpgScreenshot_20190418-042048_Photos (resized).jpgPSX_20190418_042357 (resized).jpgPSX_20190418_042646 (resized).jpgimage000000_10 (resized).jpg

#223 1 year ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

So when you unboxed the machine the lock bar yellow handle was like that? Or did it get like that after you removed the lock down bar/lifted the playfield for the first time?

That was minutes into sliding the game out...

I didn't even rationalize how peculiar the placement of the yellow handle was at that point. Just my second pinball game, and bringing it in, I had it catch and lock down on my legs while taking it up my porch steps. So.....my head was all over the place.

Fortunately, my friend and I were taking many, many photos of the unboxing and subsequent steps.

(A photo my friend took.)

image000000_11 (resized).jpg
#225 1 year ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

That’s nuts! Out of all the issues these machine has, yours has been the one I’ve been following the most.
So pretty much the lock down bar wasn’t secured when you unboxed the game correct?
The part I don’t get is how (I assume) your playfield hooks were seated on the receiver holes when you unboxed the game and then all of the sudden they would not go in? Can you pls explain this part?

Correct and correct.

When I first lifted the playfield, it was wedged in really tight. It took a very firm grip and pull to lift it. I've got it seated better now, and it takes much less effort.

I got it seated one time after, and that was after two hours of trying to move the looms, and shifting the playfield, and trying to find answers on Pinside.

After that I couldn't get it reseated, and left the glass off for a day or two, and then finally got it back in when someone recommend shifting the receiver from right to left. Then at that point, shifting the receiver up as much as I could, days later, allowed the lockdown bar mechanism to latch and lock together. The bar's teeth were hitting the locking bar, rather than sliding in and gripping it.

Been a long road, and a learning process. That's for sure! I wish my understanding of all of this didn't come fr hours and hours of frustration, trial and error, and asking questions of very helpful people. But that's life, and at least I can diagnose and help others now with what I've learned.

Thank you for your interest in my dilemma, and if you have any further questions, feel free to ask.

#244 1 year ago
Quoted from zaphX:

Just stick a clear plastic cabinet bumper on top of the screw. Solves the sticker tearing -and- ensures the ramp has the right lean.

Do you mean like the ones that wiggle onto posts? I had am extra given to me in my goodie bag.

#247 1 year ago
Quoted from rs812:

Like the one on the man overboard part or on the tortuga kickout

Like this chubby lil donut fellar?

Which screw is the issue exactly? I'm assuming the one on the bottom of that plastic. (The right in the photo.)

20190420_125439 (resized).jpg20190420_125544 (resized).jpg
#248 1 year ago

Man, it's amazing what having the right tools will do, oh so easily! This wanker on a post held me up on my Tom Cliffy install the other night. One simple ebay purchase, days later, then just two seconds and WOOOHOOO!!!

Thanks for the info, as always folks!

20190420_124956 (resized).jpg
#282 1 year ago
Quoted from vireland:

PROBLEM: Manual shooter plunges lack energy and have a hard time getting around the orbit or even onto the playfield.
SOLUTION: Check your shooter tip alignment. It should be centered between the two chrome guide rods in the ball trough. If it's to the left or right of that, the steel washer behind the rubber tip may be hitting the auto-launcher on the left or right, robbing energy from the plunge.
This picture shows the shooter tip is not centered left to right. It needs to be adjusted so it's right in the middle.
[quoted image]
Loosen these three screws from the shooter plate bracket, then slide shooter housing left or right as much as you think you need. Tighten the bottom screw so it stays put. Drop the playfield and check your work. If it's not right, loosen the bottom screw again and adjust again. Once you have it centered when the playfield is dropped, tighten all three screws again, check your work one last time, and enjoy!
[quoted image]

Absolute easiest fix for an issue I figured would be another pain. Thanks so much for spreading the good word!

#311 1 year ago
Quoted from rs812:

As an fyi to those removing the ship to put cliffys on, there is no reason to loosen or remove the bp ramp. Just remove the three screws holding the vuk, remove the vuk, and there is plenty of clearance to slide the ship back and remove it. The vuk is positively located, where as the ramp is adjustable, introducing unnecessary variables into the reassembly equation. Further, the brackets that the bp ride on are designed so that the bp is to be removed by sliding it toward the back of the machine, not forward toward the ramp.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Did you find this out after adjusting/removing the ramp? I'm having a hard time getting it back in place currently. And the vuk is the real pain in the ass, as far as getting in the way of the ship when removing and resetting it.

#323 1 year ago
Quoted from rs812:

Save yourself some trouble and just remove the rear vuk rather than the BP ramp. Once removed, there is plenty of room to slide the ship back and up. Vuk is positively located with only three screws. Versus the ramp which is a pain to reset and adjust.

Nice find! I had wondered, after loosening it, if the VUK was the main culprit, and how difficult that would be to tend to.

Are all of those screws above the playfield?

#333 1 year ago
Quoted from rs812:

As to the post issue, instead of washers that change the height, why not use a hollow punch set to punch out the correct size dots or circles out of Mylar.

How do you use this? Is there an extra tool involved?

By the way, for removing the hex key behind the Black Pearl, this set works fantastically! I think the 1/8" is the correct one.


#336 1 year ago
Quoted from rs812:

The punches are hollow on the cutting end. The hollow end’s edges are sharpened for cutting. I have a set that i use for punching holes in gasket material, cloth, leather, etc. I would use a piece of wood under the material being punched to keep from dulling the punch. You hit the solid end of the punch with a hammer, lightly. The slot in the side of the punch is so you can remove the punched out material from the punch itself. In this instance, you would actually be using the punched out material under the pf post.

Interesting. So you're suggesting using the mylar under the post or around it?

#340 1 year ago
Quoted from rs812:

The sling mylar is the half moon shaped mylars that are in the coinbox. Here is where they would be optionally installed by the slingshots, numbers 0 and 1. The rest of the mylars shown are factory installed.
[quoted image]

Is there a reason....not to install those sling mylars?

If you do those washer posts, please share photos to show us how they turned out!

#351 1 year ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Here is what a routed game looks like with the original sling posts (first 3 shots). It looks like someone already got the washer idea (doubt this is factory as the others don't have it) in pic 4. Also, looks like JJP designed their lane divider on the right side with a similar "washer" along the bottom design. I'm sure that's just part of the part characteristics (needs something to keep it up on the playfield for the nuts to pull against) but interesting.
Waiting on star posts, probably will do the clear lexan washers for now unless I can find something better.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Is this your game?

#358 1 year ago

How many games were on it?

Has everything else been pretty optimal/dialed in? I know I've been reading your posts, but man after awhile everyone's issues start to blend. Though...we all have common ones, that's for sure.

#405 1 year ago
Quoted from rs812:

As a PSA, you may want to check your map hole to make sure the ball entering the maphole will not collide with the T-nuts holding on the diverter. I noticed a few of my balls were all chewed and nicked up after only a few plays. I discovered that the left screw behind the diverter had a T-nut under the playfield which interfered with the ball entering the map hole. It is not a quick fix. I had to remove the ship to get to the screw, remove the screw, raise the playfield, and remove the stainless steel subway to get to the T-Nut. You can pull the T-Nut off by screwing in the screw from the bottom side and pulling. Based upon where the hole was, there was no orientation where the T-Nut wings did not in some way interfere with the ball as it entered the map hole. I had to grind one of the wings off of the T-Nut and orient it so that the ground off wing was facing the maphole, but no longer exposed to ball interference.
Not sure if this all machines, but my guess is that based upon the angle of the diverter there are other machines that will have the same issue.

Man, that sounds exhausting....but phew, definitely glad you got it fixed up, and thank you for the detailed fix!

Could you feel the issue with your finger via the map hole?

#415 1 year ago
Quoted from LTG:

Stick a small blob of hot glue on the bottom of the push button so it's a little larger and won't get stuck on anything.
LTG : )
Disclaimer : That style of switch has side to side play.

How do you remove the button from the lockdown bar? I couldn't discover a way to remove it from that black screw in bracket.

Even loosening the screw, for more contact from the button, rather than raise the sensor contact, took some jiggling to discover. It was screwed in so damn tight.

#423 1 year ago
Quoted from rs812:

You could see it protruding into the map hole.

Thank you for the info. I'll definitely check next time I'm under the hood, and if there's an issue, I'll post to add it to the number of occurrences.

Quoted from zaphX:

There is a black plastic nut of sorts under the lockbar. Rotate it counter clockwise while grasping the button body from the other side.

Aaaah! Yeah, that makes sense. I figured it was a pretty simple mechanism, couldn't find anything in the manual or searching either.

When you changed yours out, was the screw really, really locked in also? I finally discovered pressing the action button forward, while unscrewing, allowed better grip. Otherwise nothing was budging, and trying to use a wrench with a towel/paper around it, wasn't gripping either.

#426 1 year ago
Quoted from zaphX:

When I removed the screw, yes it was in there firmly but came out easily enough. I am not sure how to further simplify this task.

Maybe mine was locked in even more. I've never had such a trying time with something so simple, frankly. I know the hex key screw behind the ship was locked in really, really tightly, but ideally t-handle hex keys help with that situation.

Quoted from vireland:

Don't you mean "Aarrrr!"?

Haha, I do indeed! If I ever actually get to Aaaaar Mode, I'll say it even more frequently than I have been lately.

#433 1 year ago
Quoted from f3honda4me:

My POTC has had hardly any issue. November 2018 build. I don’t think these issues are as wide spread as people make them out to be. Look the the MBr decal-gate as an example.

There are so many variables in that also. How many issues inherently come from shipping? How many aren't noticed immediately or ever? How many people that own these games aren't on Pinside?

Reminds me, I still need to fix my monitor sag. Now was that an issue with a faulty armature/bracket or shipping? Either way, the silver lining, not the good kind, of the bezel os noticeable.

#437 1 year ago
Quoted from joseph5185:

Do you have plastic protectors installed?
If so, where did you get them? Link?
Are they really necessary?

Quoted from Yelobird:

None installed, none needed.

I tried the Mezel Mod ones, and they're waaaaay too thick to be functional. From what I know, they're the only ones out there. You could also put washers on the corners, which Stern seems to be doing on their new games lately.

As to if they're needed, that's subjective, and if they make you feel more secure/less concerned while playing your CE, good on ya. If not, no worries. They might sure up the plastics if they get hit, well when they get hit, and they're usually....usually an easy install. I'd just as soon buy another set of plastics from JJP, $100 shipped for a full set, versus $40 plus shipping for plastic protectors. It's akin to getting a backup playfield, just a good bit cheaper, and much easier to swap. I'd like to grab both at some point.

And grab one of these while you're at it too!

KeYSnf6_d (resized).jpg
#447 1 year ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Two different scenarios. My comment above, about protecting the plastics, is a common thing on many games. Just to protect the plastic itself, nothing to do with the playfield. Washer goes under the plastic directly, not the posts, not touching the playfield. So, from the top would be nut, plastic, washer, post, playfield.
The specific issue with this game (and probably a few others with playfield softness) is that the narrow posts are digging in to the playfield and causing dimples, indents and in some cases cracks and chipping of the playfield (I have this). The suggestion was to replace the narrow posts with the more common, wider posts (spread out the load a bit more, cover the dimple, cover any cracks/chips) and to put something between the bottom of the post and the playfield to cushion the playfield from the star post. So in this case it would go nut, plastic, PETG (optional), post (larger star post), mylar (or PETG or metal washer), playfield. [quoted image]

Ooh, nice graphic!

But also remember do NOT use star posts unless you need them/have had damage already. Otherwise you'll have them sink into the playfield.

#467 1 year ago
Quoted from Yelobird:

Anything and everything fastened to a clearcoated wood playfield will leave an indentation. Kind of like a steel ball will leave dimples everywhere. Unavailable no matter what you try. It’s pinball

Does this clearcoat seem any different to you compared to prior JJP games?

#479 1 year ago
Quoted from AUKraut:

Installed the Cliffy around the MAP hole today, requiring the Black Pearl to be removed. Removing the rear VUK first makes removing the BP MUCH simpler!!
As I was getting to the MAP hole I discovered the T-nut was protruding into my MAP hole a substantial amount. I then checked the balls I just pulled from the pin and sure enough they has substantial nicks in them. Had to remove the metal subway from underneatth the playfield. Marked the overhang amount of the T-Nut with a fine Sharpie and ground off that extra overhang at the workbench, Reinstalled it and now everything looks perfect.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
Reinstalled the BP, hooked up the wires and tightened everything up. Everything tested perfect! Grabbed the playfield glass with gloves on, and without the glass touching a thing, only my hands, it did this:
[quoted image]
I have handled playfield glass thousands of times, and now this.......Scheiße!!!!

Oh my god.... I'm so sorry.

#481 1 year ago

I wondered what the hell this was. Cliffy doesn't seem to cover it, no.

Screenshot_20190428-204202_Photos (resized).jpgScreenshot_20190428-204501_Photos (resized).jpg
#484 1 year ago
Quoted from rs812:

The Map2 doesn’t cover it. I have an extra playfield and if I installed a t-nut it would protrude the same. Based on where the hole is drilled, so close to the map hole, I have to believe this is a more prevalent issue than most realize. I never noticed it until I went looking for it after finding my balls were all nicked up after a few games. It is a real pain in the ass to fix. Bp has to come off along with the subway directly below.

Can the tnut just be removed? What tool removes them anyway?

I can't imagine the glass breaking like that. I'm so sorry.... AUKraut

#491 1 year ago
Quoted from AUKraut:

Yeah, I've seen a couple pop when someone else tried to put one on cement or concrete. Always use carpet or cardboard, but like I said this one was about 3 feet away from where I picked it up. My guess is I put some torque on it.....still shaking my head!

I can't believe you had the wherewithal to still write a cohesive post. You didn't get cut, did you?

What kinds of tools can a layman use to trim this blasted t-nut? Might as well get on this asap.

#498 1 year ago
Quoted from joseph5185:

Truthfully, I'm not sure how removing the BP is going to help all that much.
I guess I'll have a better angle, but that metal plate directly in front of where the rod goes makes it pretty difficult to insert all the same.
But what other choice do I have...

Photos of your intended work area?

#502 1 year ago
Quoted from LTG:

It's not that hard.
To remove completely, below the playfield clip a cable tie or two and unplug a few connectors and three opto connectors coming through a hole below the black pearl. Skip that part to lay it on it's side on the top side of the main playfield, put something down to protect things, like a towel.
Lift playfield up and pull forward and rest on front of cabinet. Behind playfield pull the metal clip off, slide flat metal thing that connects the motor to the black pearl off, and remove the big fat white nylon washer and set somewhere safe.
Between the black pearl and rear wall of the playfield look down, see the 1/8th inch allen head screw - remove it. Grab the black pearl, one hand each side and slide towards rear of game, clearing the two pivot points and lift the whole thing up.
Reverse procedure to put it back in.
LTG : )

The biggest issue if you're removing the ship, is remove the VUK. The ramp is a pain to get back in the same way you had it, and the VUK scrapes against the ship as you're removing/placing it back.

Lloyd needs to portal over to help such things. He kinda knows what he's doing.

#511 1 year ago

Nice work Joseph!

Can you get a shot of the map hole? I wanna see if yours has the t-nut issue also.

Make sure a towel is under the ramp. Can't tell from the photo.

#520 1 year ago
Quoted from joseph5185:

Here's my MAP hole pic as requested...[quoted image]

I definitely wouldn't be in a rush to get the ship back in, as you've got the t-nut issue also, and slightly on the right one also.

Not to mention if you'd like to mylar the chapter select.

I wonder if the deflector being angled as a result, which I'd noticed during the Cliffy installation, helps angle balls away from the t-nuts?

Either way, take your time. All will be done in time.

#526 1 year ago
Quoted from joseph5185:

Referring to those little rings on the top left and top right?


#545 1 year ago
Quoted from BC_Gambit:

Ok; just had a look at my balls and the appeared as expected after ~200 plays, BUT my nut protrusion is not as pronounced so that may just be I lucked out there.

That's an intense diagnostic quote, haha!

#563 1 year ago
Quoted from f3honda4me:

Yea the T-nut thing is a non issue in my book. The auto plunger is just like the T-nut except as you said, literally hammers the ball multiple times every game.

Hmm. That's a valid point. It is a two pronged tooth monster.

My solution is also to continue my bad aiming, and entirely miss the map hole most games. Problem solved!

Given I've taken the Pearl off three times, I'm not so jazzed at the idea of a fourth...but I'm also not trembling with anxiety, just more...."Again?!?! Really...?"

#568 1 year ago
Quoted from joseph5185:

Also, 3 times!? Congratz..
Any "tips" on aligning the ship with the eyelets or w/e AND does the hex bolt REALLY need to be as tight as it was from the factory. It took excessive force with both hands and it literally popped. I was like DAMN! Okay...

Yeah.... First was Cliffy installation. Second was wanting to make sure my wires were clear. Third was putting a wire loom around the ship's wiring, placing some mylar over the chapter select area, and installing the Pearl cannon shield, which is most likely gratuitous.

Quoted from LTG:

I grab the black pearl one hand each side, have it all the way towards the rear of the game. Lower it. Slide it forward. I just seem to hit the right spot when doing it.

No, finger tight works.
LTG : )

Lloyd is the Barry White of pinball tech. He HAS the skills!

#574 1 year ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Perfect, thanks for doing all of that... so I can do it all on my first ship removal (and replace the opto)! Much appreciated lol
Btw, I'm a bit surprised that there is no mylar there. Seems like a no brainer.

Yeah, the "final" time I got all my anxious ducks in a row. Really for removing the Pearl, you could mylar the chapter area, Cliffy map hole, and shave that nut if you wanna. For me, Cliffy was imperative. Anything else is subjective.

When did you get your order in with JJP? I talked to Frank on Wednesday about some parts. Haven't had confirmation or delivery yet.

Quoted from joseph5185:

I'm off the mindset that mylaring any area WILL affect the gamplay a LITTLE bit / a TINY bit ... but nontheless.
Idk. I'm on the fence about it. I know it's a popular area that people have chose, but it's only one way to play the game as silly as that sounds and I just feel like with proper cleaning/waxing I would detect if it was becoming an issue .. maybe those swirls that people talk about (still don't own any novus) ..
I'm all about protecting the game but I wanna PLAY!

I'm telling ya, skip the mylar/table protection. Just go full body like Frank/Leslie would!

KeYSnf6_d (resized).jpg
#595 1 year ago
Quoted from joseph5185:

IDK if it's "perfect", but I think I'm coming to realize that nothing is in pinball...
If it's not...it's pretty damn close!
Also, resting position lol ..
Also, notice that TINY little chip on the right side...I'm not happy about it. Idk if it was there before or not, but hopefully the ramp will largely cover it up.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Good work! Glad you got this taken care of. Always a learning experience!

#610 1 year ago
Quoted from joseph5185:

Well...I'm TRYING to get the ship back on... lol

And remove the VUK! I'm guessing it's much easier without that knocking against the brown/green target wires.

#613 1 year ago
Quoted from joseph5185:

It is chewing up that brown wire. You aren't kidding. I'm going to tape them back and I assume the ship sits underneath the VUK.

That VUK is a monster.

Yes, underneath the VUK. Not too late to take it out, if need be. I think the plastic to the right at the bottom needs removed if doing so.

#620 1 year ago
Quoted from joseph5185:

I think so but I’ll double check when I get back home.
I still don’t know if the left flipper is actually fixed so stay tuned for that.

Numbering them or putting corresponding stickers on them is essential. Remember, 2/3/4 on the mini board, one ethernet blue looking cable, (which isn't an ethernet cable) and three larger moles cables.

1 week later
#752 1 year ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Hallelujah! I can make a tortuga hole shot now!! I'm not totally inept at pinball!
The replacement tortuga hole cover (snubber bracket) solves the issue!! Can't comment on the STDM yet, but the launch trajectory is definitely different.
New on left
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
Oh and thanks to Steve at JJP for taking care of this so damn quick.

Is that higher than the standard scoop? The one it came with it pretty close to the wireform as is.

#760 1 year ago
Quoted from joseph5185:

Circling back to the potential MAP hole issues and the exposed screws.
I thoroughly inspected my balls before replacing and I didn’t notice any kind of damage.
I think this theory has been debunked that the MAP hole was causing issues with balls, but I said I would share.

It's weird, I've gotten recommendations to trim that t-nut, and also to not trim.

How many plays are you at Joseph?

I assume nearly all tables have this issue, though zaphx said one of his friend's or his, didn't. But I'd figure these balls would all be chewed up otherwise, on location or not.

vireland did you trim yer nut? (So personal, I know!)

#766 1 year ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Zero. LOL
My game was on location and has not had the nut trimmed and the balls are shiny as the day they were born.

Poor Joseph.... I realize he makes his own energy, but this dude also bought a CE of this for his first game. Pinball brings out the neurosis, and joy, in all of us.

Note taken! Glad your'e an owner, kept your on location game, and are posting about things you're encountering.

We got a good lot on this ship, for sure. ARRRRR!

#776 1 year ago
Quoted from heni1977:

Going to finally do update since the last one was released. Will i need to do all the ones before or can I just do the one that was just released?

Make sure to use a thumb drive between 8 and 32 GB.

I forgot about that after having read that somewhere, and wasted time messing about with a larger stick.

#803 1 year ago
Quoted from zaphX:

In car forums, sometimes people post “XXX build thread” to chronicle all their personal projects on a car without driving the rest of the forum crazy. Interested parties can subscribe, disinterested ones ignore it.
Would you consider a “Joseph’s Pinball OCD” thread?

Call me a sadist, but I'd give that thread a test subscribe. At least for a day.......hour maybe?

I think the key issue here for joseph5185 is maybe taking time exploring these issues, reading up on them, reflecting, PMing here and there, and then as a last resort....asking or stating issues in a thread. I know I encounter things here and there, we all do for sure on any new game, but taking time to assess, read, listen, and reflect will make everything here smoother for him and us all.

#829 1 year ago
Quoted from zaphX:

PROBLEM: Rubber in the star map / chapter select area is worn through.
SOLUTION: This is a lot of work and there's a lot that can go wrong, so be sure you're prepared...
1. Remove the Black Pearl (see other posts for this)
2. Block all the holes AND the rear orbit with shop towels. This is important!
3. Remove the 5 hex nuts that keep the plastic shield in place. Use a wrench under the plastic to hold the nut underneath when you remove the topside hex nut. Failure to do this will just cause the post to spin.
4. Once the plastic is free, lift up on the chest and rotate it clockwise to the metal bracket out of the way.
5. While everything is open, clean it! You won't get a better opportunity.
6. Replace the rubbers and reassemble in reverse order. Be aware the rubbers are different sizes as are the posts they ride on.
I failed to block the holes and I managed to lose a plastic post somewhere inside the bowels of the machine. I looked for it for over an hour, shook to listen for it, etc...never did find it. I happened to have the right post because I had spares from doing the star post mod so I eventually reassembled with one of those. Don't make the mistake I did!
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

I was trying to gander at your t-nut situation from these photos. Did yours have that issue or just your friend's?

Which is the topside hex nut? Is that regarding the chest or one for that plastic piece near it?

#844 1 year ago
Quoted from Heater:

Thanks for documenting this Zaphx. I have the same problem and need to replace the same rubber. I dread removing the BP and was wondering if I were able to remove 4 of the nuts, could I bend the plastic shield up enough to fit the band over the posts?
-If not and I have to remove the BP, I noticed all the posts so far seem to start off with just removing the BP. Then it went to removing the wire form ramp, then it went to not removing it and just removing the VUK to get it off (I know I know, That's what she said). What seems to be the consensus of the easiest way to remove the BP.
Thanks everyone

If you remove the VUK, it should be a great deal easier. That getting in the way, to reseat the eyelets is the trickiest part really.

#856 1 year ago
Quoted from zaphX:

No, don’t stop posting. You’re absolutely right that if it’s a problem for you, an optional ball save would be a fair solution.
I wish the SDTM was not happening for you or that I had a potential fix. I’ve had hands on setup and extensive play time on 3 different machines. Some patterns have emerged (for example all of them had gold button issues.). But I’ve not seen the SDTM myself. That does not mean it’s not happening and I’m sorry for making you feel this way.

I'm assuming the "discounted by others" might be more a reference to how joseph5185 gets constant flak for vocalizing issues he's had. The last page and a half alone, has seen him get goofed on time and time again by multiple people. That kind of attitude, for me, gets far more grating than him asking possibly redundant questions or feeling frenzied.

I think patience all around on this or any forum, is a pretty fantastic thing to foster, above all.

I think everyone on this thread offers quite a lot, and I appreciate that, but we all have different levels of mechanical inclination, experience, and also emotional thresholds and empathy. And that's a good thing.

#868 1 year ago
Quoted from Yelobird:

Only edit I would make to your story. to ISSUES HE CREATED! lol

It's neither here nor there. If he has issues, we all need to help as much as we're able. And maybe if they are self induced, over time they won't be. These initial stumbling blocks jumping into this hobby, are pretty high.

Quoted from zaphX:

Yeah maybe I should just disengage for a while.

Engagement is fantastic, I think it's more direction than anything. I empathize with the frustration on trying to help at length, and on the other side having issues that don't seem resolvable at times.

As a side note, I know he's gained some confidence, and told me he's helped some folks along the way himself, and he felt proud about that. And surely that knowledge came from his experiences, but also from many informed opinions and thoughts from people in this very thread.

There are less than 1,000 of us Buccos on this might JJP Pirate ship. And most aren't posting here, but we ARRRRRRRRRRRe, so let's help one another keep playing, and from jumping overboard.

#870 1 year ago
Quoted from GnarLee:

I think noone here has any issues with Joesph and he is more than welcome to ask questions. The problem is the amount of posts I think. If I had to take a guess hes prolly in the 4-500 range by now. I enjoy keeping up with this forum but it frustrating when I see ive missed 70 posts and find out 30 of them are him. It is why I suggested he use the edit feature. Also there have been several times where a solution was posted for him and he went and did something completely different and came back to let us know it didnt work and he still hasnt tried what was suggested. I'd bet 5 bucks if the amount of posts went down and he tried our suggestions first the subject would have been dead weeks ago.

I completely agree with all of what you express, and wonder the same myself, but complaining or goofing on him, (the latter not at all in your case GnarLee, nor really the former) only adds to the post count rather than just moving on or helping him.

Every time I want to walk away from this issue, but then I see a new page of goofing on him, and that doesn't help make this thread move forward or feel welcoming.

I've said my peace, but honestly there are more times that I empathize with him, and in turn wonder how my own questions or comments come across, and then I decide to not ask questions or post. That's the vibe that's being created here.

#912 1 year ago
Quoted from Yelobird:

Thats an interesting look with the multicolor posts. Like it.

I was going to use two blue in the water, and a red up top.

Considering there's so much plastic there, might as well make it more pleasant than just clear I felt.

#927 1 year ago
Quoted from Schabs81:

Bottom one is for the depths just snaps on from what I'm told still havent done mine other one is the second piece of the maphole cliffy gos in the back where screws go in

Yup and yup.

Quoted from Lermods:

I tried searching, but not getting good results. Can someone please point me to the install instructions for the cliffys? Looks like the pop bumper has to come out for the mystery hole and the ship out for the map hole. Have two smaller cliffys, not sure where they go.
[quoted image]

When you get to installing the map hole Cliffy's, I'd check for the t-nut hanging out. It's easier then, to remove the subway and shave it s bit, versus doing that all at a later date, all over again.

Speaking of......

#934 1 year ago

Welp, t-nut, I'm coming atcha!

Just a wee bit over the Cliffy even, but I found slight nicks on two balls, with just 57 games played. Might as well shave this nut down. Dirty nut!

Screenshot_20190511-165139_Photos (resized).jpg
#968 1 year ago

Went to my local hardware store, (not a chain) and the fantastic gentlemen who's helped me prior with plumbing issues hacksawed, then buffed, this t-nut very nicely!

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#981 1 year ago

Courtesy of zaphX I'm going to try to tilt the Black Pearl a bit more to the right, due to frequent ball hang-ups on the ramp diverter.

From what I gather, this might also help possible wear on the ramp, due to that screw being so close in proximity.

Here's the one I bought today.


And I think this is the one he picked up.


#996 1 year ago
Quoted from Lermods:

Many thanks! Doesn't sound too bad.

Remove the VUK. I shifted the ramp for the first three times, and the ramp was a major hassle to bbn align again. The VUK has 2/3 screws covering it via the plastic/man overboard protector. Then the VUK has just three nuts/screws itself. No shifting the Pearl target wires around the VUK then.

#1095 1 year ago
Quoted from EaglePin:

Anyone know the correct/safe way to remove these rubbery connectors on the plastic protector that's over the starmap running alongside the chest? I'm trying to put in the PinballLife ship protector to keep balls from getting trapped under the Pearl, but I'm not seeing how to correctly remove these two rubber connectors and I don't want to force anything and break them. Thanks.[quoted image]

I just twisted them out. They come out fairly easily, but putting them back in on the other hand..... Far easier to reinstall them when the ship is out, fyi.

And I had the cannon shield in, seemed fine installation wise, then somehow when putting the Pearl back in, for the fourth time, it kept touching the shield, no matter how I positioned it. So I removed it.

#1098 1 year ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Yup, twist/pull.. they come out pretty easy. When putting them back in, lick them (or wet them some other, more hygenic way) and they pop right in.

Never considered licking those wee buggers, but it kinda makes sense!

Reminds me of all the people that started licking their Nintendo Switch cartridges, only to realize a special chemical was used to encourage kids not to do the same. I hope Pirates are tastier HH!

#1102 1 year ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Personally, I licked my finger and then rubbed the nub... but to each their own

I hope there was at least BBQ sauce on there first!

#1119 1 year ago
Quoted from Yelobird:

It’s actually Very necessary. If you think a post can dig in wait till you tighten a stainless guide with no washer. It will shear through like a guillotine. You need a washer there.

I don't have one either.

20190519_004937 (resized).jpg
#1126 1 year ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Caught the ball skipping over the chapter select plastic. I don't know if you can get a good sense from the video, but it seems clear that the opto sensor is not the culprit. I can tell you the shot was fairly hard but clean. I can't tell precisely why it is riding up the ball guide. It obviously rides up and over the guide hits the star map and shoots back over the chapter select plastic. I can probably get this to happen once or twice a game. Any suggestions? I am guessing this isn't going to be good long term.
Skip ahead to like 1:19

Man, that's violent. What's your flipper strength and pitch at?

#1145 1 year ago
Quoted from indypinhead:

I found the flat washer...went to re-install...dropped the barrel plastic, now I can't find it.
It's time to walk away from this machine for the night and go play something else.

Sometimes, that's the best choice.

#1167 1 year ago

For some reason that's an iPhone only app...

This works pretty well for Android.


#1171 1 year ago
Quoted from zaphX:

Heh “for some reason.”
Android apps do not magically spawn from iOS codebases. Developers must explicitly create a version for the lesser platform, or compromise from the start using a cross-platform development tool.
Most iOS developers only do iOS. Companies that support both usually have teams for both.
Source: I do this.

Oh I'm sure it's a passion project for the guy, more so than profit, and I can only imagine Apple's infrastructure is always more exclusivity based, than open platform based. That's somewhat why I switched platforms after my 4th or 5th iPhone.

I meant for some reason, as in the developer is missing a massive portion of his potential market.

#1178 1 year ago
Quoted from Schabs81:

Those for the inlanes where balls drop?

Yup. Just slot them in. I leave my adhesive on. Pinch them good when you place them, to avoid hitting the playfield.

Quoted from skyrex:

Just got into my cliffy set and these two are in there. I know where all the others go but where do these go?[quoted image]

#1181 1 year ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Meaning you don't reveal the adhesive on the back? Yeah, I didn't do that on my POTC ones either and they seem to stay in place fine.

Correct. Not for the slot protectors.

For the map hole, use the adhesive.

Quoted from skyrex:

Okay got that. Now where in the manual is the page for black pearl removal?


#1184 1 year ago
Quoted from skyrex:

I love this place! Thank you for the link and all the help!

You're very welcome, though others did the hardwork of doing the excellent writeups.

Quoted from gumnut01:

Attention all people with new games!
Turn down power of Black Pearl ship VUK to 20 or whatever is the lowest setting to be able to board the BP. If you don’t your orbit at the back of the Pearl behind the spinners will look like the moon. It can also break the opto next to the VUK exit.
Turn down slings to 16. And also take a couple of points of both lower flippers. You will have a lot less playfield damage if you do this.
Install some Mylar at the back of the Pearl as shown. Clean with medical rubbing alcohol first. The little medi swabs are ideal.
Photos show before Mylar, my cut out and after. It may slow down the orbit behind the spinners. Most of the area needs to be covered since the ball lands left and right of VUK since the Pearl rocks.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

I definitely need to lower some setting too! Thanks for the recommendations.

I think my Pearl had some mylar just under the VUK. Yours seemingly.....didn't?

#1197 1 year ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Am I just missing something or does the Tortuga hole not have a coil setting? But then there is one I think called "Bumper VUK" or something, is that it?

Are you pumping that down for less velocity? I considered doing that on mine, given the scoop angle seems fine.

#1205 1 year ago
Quoted from joseph5185:

I think the BP not moving much to the left is completely normal based on my game and everyone else’s I have seen.

It seems a little more stunted to the left, deeper dip to the right.

#1209 1 year ago
Quoted from zaphX:

It looks like I am starting to see a bit of wear on Tortuga so I'm going ahead and getting Cliffys.
For the folks who have installed them - did you remove any mylar before doing so? Would like more info.

I didn't, but I waited to install before playing. Not sure how the mylar that's down will affect things post play, but I had no issues.

It's a fairly easy installation, but try and get the hex key inside the barrel.

#1288 1 year ago
Quoted from joseph5185:

To reiterate, mine was 18 from the factory.


#1309 1 year ago
Quoted from Nepi23:

I did not find a reported problem or a fix for this: for some reason I am able to remove my backglass even though it should be locked. Anybody with a similar problem and what is the fix for this? Thanks for any info!

Mine was very firmly jammed in there. Definitely didn't just slide up and out. I assume due to shifting during shipping.

Quoted from harryhoudini:

I'd like to hear more on this.. Still having loop issues too

Quoted from indypinhead:

I have the same issue w/ my POTC

Mine is clunky also.

#1312 1 year ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Tried a few different bulbs in my coin door:
Color changing LED

Blue spot compared with OEM
[quoted image]
Blue spot with brighter blue spot
[quoted image]
Blue spot with green spot
[quoted image]
Blue spot with bright white spot
[quoted image]
OEM with bright white
[quoted image]
OEM with bright purple
[quoted image]
[quoted image]

That first one isn't bad on the slow pulse. The quick timing seems seizure inducing though...

#1319 1 year ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Well, this isn't right. I went to start taking off parts to replace the rubber in the starfield and notice that the chest is really loose. Looking down behind it I can see the wood screw that holds it to the playfield isn't tight at all. This isn't the first loose thing I've found, sadly. I figured no problem, tighten it back down and be good. Once I did that the chest still moved and that's when I noticed the crack.[quoted image]

Oh noooo.....

#1346 1 year ago
Quoted from joseph5185:

Anyone else have a REALLY difficult time with that lockdown bar and is it really that important to be perfectly tight.
I’m thinking no.

I documented my situation a month or two back. Lots of issues. Ultimately shifted the receiver, and bent the hooks/tabs on the bar itself. Pain in the balls to learn on the fly, but it's part of pinball life.

Quoted from KornFreak28:

Wow! That’s bad! Did u get it fixed?

I had this issue also, as did several users. Seemingly from shipping. I've yet to make the adjustments on this specific issue.

#1396 1 year ago
Quoted from jarozi:

No washer under the outlane/shooter lane metal rail. Rail dug into playfield and damaged the art underneath. FIX: Added a washer.

Did you have to pound this post out for install? Do you remember what size washer you used?

Glad you're up and running!

Quoted from Psw757:

Not sure if anyone has been having issues with repeatedly hitting the tortuga shot and getting it to stick.

Received the new revised snubber bracket from JJP today and the shot is now repeatable with no brick outs.
It appears the original snubber(shorter version) was causing some restriction both going in and out of the vuk hole. I say this because I was running factory power setting of 22 and it was good but with the new bracket I had to dial all the way down to 11 to get the eject to the left flipper and not be too hot. 22 was creating a slight airball issue and a rocket eject.
Thought this was quite interesting and pass it along.
Makes a huge difference in scoring to be able to consistently hit this shot now!

Is the Tortuga vuk called "VUK"? I think i read it was somewhere. Need to adjust this myself, monster kickout speed on mine.

#1435 1 year ago
Quoted from jarozi:

No problem. When you go to tighten that nut under the post, just push the washer away from the shooter lane to make 100% it clears.

I noticed you did that on yours, as that photo with the grinded down washer seemed to be really far into the shooter lane.

Thanks again for the info, and reminder, I need to get this done!

Is the point of the washer to prevent the rail from grinding into the playfield over long term vibration from the ball being ejected up the rails?

1 week later
#1509 1 year ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Following up on this, here it is with plastic in place (does nothing) and with very little pressure. The ball hits the bracket just slinging it along on its own. I tried to move the ball guide as far out as possible and it still hits. This seems VERY likely to be the reason why the ball diverts into the BP on clean, strong shot.
Video https://photos.app.goo.gl/Y3DggZhyeBHzHexA6
Anyone want to comment? I am going to remove the bracket and dremel off the tip (moyle!) when I do the same to the t-nut in the map hole today.
[quoted image]

Ugh. So this is another issue akin to the tnut? Does this explain the clunkiness of this loop I'm guessing?


Screenshot_20190612-195301_Photos (resized).jpgScreenshot_20190612-195527_Photos (resized).jpg
#1511 1 year ago
Quoted from mountaingamer:

i noticed that on mine also but rolling a ball around it didnt hit the bracket

I have to think this is a solid chance of many having hit issues. I know I've always heard a click on the loop shot, and felt momentum gets lost some. This would completely explain that.

I noticed the tnut when I'd installed my Cliffys, wondered what that was, didn't catch this one at all.

This is genuinely starting to get very, very unpleasant....

#1550 1 year ago
Quoted from Soulrider911:

Map hole tnut fix. Not sure if this is the case with everyone. But an le I just bought had some serious putting in the balls, I suspected the culprit was the protruding tnut in the map hole.
Sure enough after a test the ball was contacting it.
[quoted image]
Solution masking taped the immediate area
[quoted image]
Used a dremmel to grind it down
[quoted image]

Did you removed this via the subway to trim it or.......?

#1552 1 year ago
Quoted from Soulrider911:

You could remove the subway yes, I did not, the subway helped trap the debris, and then I stuffed a shop vac hose in.. I’m confident I got all the metal debris.

You must have been pretty delicate in trimming that nut, that far against the wood, and the tooth turned upward!

#1555 1 year ago
Quoted from 3pinballs:

wouldn't a Cliffy cover that T-Nut?

Mine still butted out over the Cliffy. His tnut situation looked even more poorly situated, with the tooth digging into the map hole.

#1558 1 year ago
Quoted from 3pinballs:

are your pinballs dinged up?

I had a couple of nicks on two out of the five balls, but that was only maybe 70 or so games in.

Quoted from Soulrider911:

Take a look at this pic, it's actually slightly too short to cover the tnut. Even if it did cover it, the ball will bend the heck out of it in no time and or... the tnut will end up punching right through it...[quoted image]

Yeah, that's similar to what mine was, so I trimmed it.

#1574 1 year ago
Quoted from JustLikeMe:

Work has been crazy so I haven’t had too much time with POTC since I got it. I managed to fix most of the original problems I had - the most surprising fix was that the opto switch for the Devils Triangle spinner was installed backwards from the factory (!) but the rest were pretty simple. I had one flipper rubber on the upper playfield snap with probably less than 50 games on the machine which seems unusual, but I have a few spares now in case it happens in the future. I still have three problems and searching this thread hasn’t helped me - anyone have any thoughts on the below?
1. The upper loop seems to be registering shots intermittently. The further to the right of the inner loop, the more likely it is to register. In switch test it behaves the same - the closer to the right hand side of the ball guide, the more likely it is to register. The path between the opto pair seems clear.
2. The left ramp is kinda clunky - even with the lower right flipper power down, at least 50% of shots hit the diverter even when it is in the up position and go into the whirlpool. When the diverter is down for multiball start, the ball goes into the whirlpool but at an angle so it doesn’t really spin like it should, which leads me to think they I need to adjust the position of the diverter mount. Could anyone share a top down pic of their maelstrom diverter so I can compare?
3. The most frustrating issue is that I am getting a ball trough error on start up 90% of the time, which prevents a game being started. When it first happened I did some troubleshooting with Lloyd via email, checking various connectors etc, and he came to the conclusion that one of the opto boards was faulty, so I’m waiting on a replacement - but since then there have been a few occasions where I’ve switched the game on and it has worked fine. If I don’t get the error immediately on start up the game will work fine until I switch it off, even if I leave it on all day, so I can play multiple games without an issue if I’m lucky on the first boot. Power cycling the machine after I receive the error once will always result in the error, but if I leave the game for a couple of days it will sometimes be fine. It’s driving me crazy.
Has anyone had any similar issues?
Edit: I’ve been meaning to ask - I get a loud pop noise from the speakers when the game is booting. This is my first JJP game so I don’t have anything to compare it to directly, but the noise is much louder than any of my other machines. Is this normal?

I know the loud pop is power being fed to the amp or speakers. Ask harryhoudini for more specifics, as he's working on a resolution to remove that.

That's about all I can help with sadly...

#1628 1 year ago
Quoted from gumnut01:

Also the washer on launch and the orbit has an angle that sticks out a bit.

If......you have a washer near the ball launch. Some don't.

Quoted from zaphX:

Probably. Honestly every 1000 games is probably overkill too. I’m really only changing them when/if weird things start to happen.

I've read pretty frequently from multiple forum vets on here 400-500 games. That basically replacing balls, and waxing are the two most important steps in longevity for a game.

Quoted from zaphX:

Having set up 3 of these things, these are the things I found need checking OOTB:
1. Adjust the Pearl ramp adjustment screw until the ball rolls off the top to the right. Stuck balls here are common until you do this. Do not over tighten.
2. Confirm the shooter is working cleanly and does not catch against the autoplunger. See index for fixes if so.
3. Go into switch test and hit all the switches, confirm none are stuck closed and none fail to fire when hit.
4. Run the ship test and confirm the Pearl runs freely without topping/bottoming the slot and gets down to a single digit score as its lowest value. See index for fixes if it’s not.
5. Clean the playfield (sometimes there’s a little shop dust.)
All this will take about 10 minutes. At this point just play and enjoy your new machine!
IF you run into issues, check the index on this thread for help.
I do not recommend reading every single item and worrying if you have the fault or not.
I also recommend two preventative maintenance items but you should NOT feel compelled to avoid playing on day one.
I didn’t do these items for months after unboxing.
1. Plastic wire loom on the wire behind the Dauntless (it can rub and cut)
2. Plastic wire loom on the wire under the Pearl (it can rub and cause a short)

I think the idea, whether it's accurate for all games or not, is that if the tnut damages balls, nicked up, deformed balls can damage plastics and any other part in a machine differently than smoother ones might. That's the idea I operated under, anyway.

Quoted from statsdoc:

Did you back it out from underneath or grind it in place?

I went the subway route. No way was I using a dremel near the playfield hole. Wasn't too difficult to access. Not fun, but more piece of mind for me, personally.

#1636 1 year ago
Quoted from zaphX:

I better buy more balls then I figure I need to do it monthly if that's the service interval. I already clean it a couple times per week, and wax it maybe twice a month.

Sooner definitely seems to be better for sure! You seem pretty diligent in upkeep, so changing balls is the easiest part! I bought some fluid to degrease them, forget what it is offhand. And I know I'm supposed to grease and store them in an airtight bag too...

Quoted from rlslick:

LTG...thank you...I’m going to look into it when I get back in this evening. Appreciate the help. One more thing..I can’t drop my playfield back Into the lock down bar. It was tight getting it out but I figured it was due to the foam pad I needed to remove. Unfortunately it looks as if the foam was unable to keep the playfield from pulling and bending the lockbar. Should this just be replaced..or disassembled and bent back with a hammer/pliers?[quoted image][quoted image]

Definitely try what ltg suggested!

I had this very same issue. I somewhat feel, and from looking at your two photos here, the receivers on some of these games aren't flush. I felt mine wasn't due to the insulating wire being tucked waaaay under the receiver.

If you want any tips or need help, feel free to PM me. I had this issue the very first time I raised and lowered the playfield upon setup. Struggled with it for hours till I wedged it back in. The issue was still there, so I had to troubleshoot in ways I never had prior with a game, being a fairly new home owner, and all.

Quoted from Trooper11040:

Then hardest part of taking off the black pearl in my opinion is the VUK, and putting the wiring back in after you have it off lol. It was honestly a pretty easy process

Removing the VUK or getting around it?

The hardest part in my three times, has always been resetting the Pearl back onto the eyelets. The wiring is pretty straightforward, though sometimes an errant wire might struggle here and there.

Quoted from Zora:

That gives me hope, thank you

But removing the VUK makes things much much easier. Definitely go that route, rather than mess with adjusting the Pearl Ramp, like shown in the video.

#1650 1 year ago
Quoted from joseph5185:

Cliffy’s are finally in the mail!
My take on the t-nut is to address if only interferes with installation of the Cliffy’s at which point I would opt to remove it entirely.
Also, I’ll likely take this opportunity to lay down a fresh coat and probably replace the balls with brand new ball barons that I recently received since the balls I'm rolling with right now are stock. Once the new balls are in, I won’t be inclined to worry about them again for a long time.
I thought there was one other thing on my mind, but can’t seem to remember right now.
Edit: I remember what it was now. I just realized that my AFMr has mirror blades and it looks REALLY good. I also saw the snaps of someone who did the black chrome blades on this game and it also looks awesome. So I may consider this as well.

You can't remove the tnut entirely. It seats the one nut, of two, that help hold the Map Snubber Bracket in place. The tnut gives the nut the ability to be threaded and held in place.

#1686 1 year ago
Quoted from gumnut01:

The one it came with is this[quoted image]

Excessive fur on that isolator. Clearly the issue!

#1711 1 year ago
Quoted from gumnut01:

Since I adjusted my tortuga scoop, it seems to be going back to closer to between the flippers rather than middle of left flipper. I think the problem is you can’t get the deflector down tight enough. Took it off, and noticed rippling around the metal plate. Now a cliffy May resolve all this, but I hopefully solved the moving tortuga once and for all.
1. 2 neoprene washers to grip to the playfield and cover my ripples
2. 2 m6 star washers under the screws to stop them from loosening and the plate from moving
I do have a bit of the washers showing now, but if my tortuga kickouts don’t creep over time, I’m happy![quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

On your second photo in, I've noticed indentations like that as well when lifting parts.

I know when I placed the gummy washers on the slings months back, within 3 hours, and not even playing it, it started to leave faint impressions.

Are your kickouts more to the left flipper now? My snubber bracket doesn't seem super tight either. It'll wobble a bit on some shots in, even with a Cliffy installed.

#1717 1 year ago
Quoted from vireland:

Yes, when it starts firing SDTM it basically has just come loose. Tightening it up fixes it. Definitely needs loctite for long term play.

Does a Cliffy there help hold things in place better?

#1720 1 year ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

If it isn't firing right you might also make sure you have the updated (longer) snubber bracket.

I do believe I have the longest snubber available. It's so long it snubs me on my drive into work! Rotten snubber....

I'm pretty sure I do. Had heard about this issue a month or so ago. My game was produced in late January, so I got the best snubbage possible, from what I think.

I did go ahead and lower the kickout a bit, and it's maybe too limp now.

#1722 1 year ago
Quoted from zaphX:

I have the shorter snubber...I need to request that longer one (which my Los Gatos machine had.) Also need to request the opto bash protector. Will get all this dealt with at some point, so far neither are causing me an issue though.

I only heard about that opto protector after picking up HH's wicked Pearl door. Figure I'll use that instead.

It looks good, doesn't it zaphX?

#1725 1 year ago
Quoted from gumnut01:

Huh. Harry has favourites. I see.

Quoted from harryhoudini:

No. *ordered* the door/window (call it what you want!)... none have shipped yet!

Yeah, I'm still messing around with my order. I ordered the door, but need to cancel/add more stuff into a new order.

If I don't set my mind soon, I'll be more the opposite of a "favourite".

2 weeks later
#1825 1 year ago
Quoted from 3pinballs:

I'm Polish...that's why I need 2 people.

You mean, you do it correctly, while the person standing by you tells you that you're fucking it up?

1 week later
#1867 1 year ago
Quoted from LTG:

And for the love of anything holy. Never hose anything down in a pin with WD40.
LTG : )

That's okay for greasing balls for storage though, yes?

Before use I degrease them with naphtha.

#1878 1 year ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

I have a more angular face - never seen the hat and patch once. Not sure what I'm doing wrong!

My face looks like this, and haven't seen jack shit yet....

Guess there's something wrong with me.

alien-scary-mask-halloween-festival-party (resized).jpg
1 week later
#1926 1 year ago
Quoted from gumnut01:

You threw me with the WOZ photo

He wanted to show you his new WoZ custom glued down Pirates apron!

1 month later
#2073 1 year ago
Quoted from LTG:

Get the new support brackets in there.

Haven't heard about this yet Lloyd. Were new brackets sent out?

1 month later
#2247 1 year ago
Quoted from EaglePin:

I think the bulletproofing done on my underside Pearl wiring by Kurt hemispheres saved me from another broken wire last night. Went overboard off the Pearl, hit on the very edge of the Man Overboard sign & ball guide, and bounced over the Open Seas orbit lane to get stuck underneath. Here’s a pic of where it ended up. And after noticing how scraped the ball was in the pic I changed them out. Hadn’t been very long since my last change.[quoted image]

Yow, that's quite a trip for that ball! Kurt is awesome, glad he helped you out to prevent future issues!

2 months later
#2471 12 months ago
Quoted from zaphX:

vireland please add to the index!
PROBLEM: The Depths shoots the ball into the one way gate at the I lane, causing unstoppable drains.
SOLUTION: I tried playing with various settings on the VUK, nothing helped. I returned it to default and taped the one way gate out of the way. Success, not one single drain. So I took a closer look at the gate, and my wife pointed out that the wireform for it was rubbing the light post (see pic.)
I removed it and snipped off a little bit, just enough to keep it from rubbing. This resolved the problem for me.[quoted image]

Interesting fix!

Would adjusting the direction of the light help also?

#2498 11 months ago
Quoted from vireland:

If the forks are rising to let the balls get into the chest, you likely just need to adjust the switch arm (bend out a bit more) under the playfield that the fork "rollers" go over so they activate the switch and the chest mode is then aware of whether it should be open or closed.

Sounds like you didn't get all the shipping foam out of the cabinet. There's a giant square screwed to the back inside of the cabinet that will cause what you're seeing. Check the index on post one of this thread. It has a link to a post explaining what you need to do.

I had, and I recall a few other owners, major pains with the lockdown bar and hooks being all kinds of fubar. He might have to adjust the receiver ultimately....

#2502 11 months ago
Quoted from EaglePin:

For the star field map, are lights coming on for the JJP factory one (behind the mod) while you’re playing a ball? If I’m remembering correctly I think the green light on it is designed as an indicator it has power and is working. Have you played any balls with the mod off and just that original star field visible?

Is that a green or the orange one?

#2504 11 months ago

Cool! And I don't even have to hunt for a photo of my orange one, it's posted right below that one, haha!

3 weeks later
#2614 11 months ago
Quoted from MurphyPeoples:

Yes, the Carbon Fiber Bayou piece and one other was added later on. Perhaps it was the BP edge protector as well. Hard to remember. That was back in August 2019.

Yes, a secondary 2 piece add-on set.

#2618 11 months ago
Quoted from Vitty:

Good question! Anyone have a photo of the new bracket?

The top is a bit longer. Post a photo of your bracket. That might help!

#2622 11 months ago
Quoted from Vitty:

Looks like I do have the updated longer one.[quoted image][quoted image]

You're welcome.

Have you tried lowering the coil power for Tortuga?

#2642 11 months ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Is anyone else concerned about the screw hitting the opto? I think I'm gonna mess with the arm a bit to curve it around the opto. Maybe the screws can be installed on the other side and swap the arm around, not sure.

Where is that?

1 week later
#2672 10 months ago
Quoted from zaphX:

The spring is only about returning the flipper to the original position. Since you already changed the sleeve and plunger:
- When you manipulate the flipper by hand, does it move freely or does it feel like it's binding/catching?
- Is the flipper lined up with the ball guide, or too low/high?
Everything you need to know about flippers:

Quoted from LTG:

Look at the mech as a whole under the playfield. Lined up straight ? Coil stop and front bracket holding coil, lined up straight. Not leaning in or out. Then look over the pawl/plunger movement. Nice straight plane it moves on ? And the pawl not too high or low on the flipper shaft ? ( flipper spacer gauge isn't always accurate for an issue like this ). And coil can turn a tiny bit, but not be loose.
Last but not least. Swap left and right flipper button leaf blade switches. I've had a few that just didn't work good. See if problem moves. Poor connection on the blade to the point, or the self cleaning ridge not smooth. If that ridge on the leaf blade that contacts the other ridge on the leaf blade, isn't smooth. I have filed them to a smooth ridge. I know not supposed to file lower power leaf blade switches. But I want stuff working. This is assuming your leaf blades have the self cleaning ridge and not points that look like a smooth rivet. No telling what is in your game without looking.
LTG : )

I appreciate when guys like yourselves, and
vireland yelobird and many others race each other to help out folks.

It's so much nicer than when people reply only with snark and quips.

I appreciate this board for the tech help quite a bit! The postering and ego maneuvering, less so.

#2675 10 months ago
Quoted from vireland:

Playfields are heavy, playfield brackets are not quite hard enough and some sag over time. It's been a problem almost from the start on JJP machines. JJP packs a LOT on a playfield and it makes them very heavy for those two hanging points. They basically just need to use a steel alloy with better yield strength (which is the kind of strength that resists deforming) to solve the problem, but I don't know if anyone at JJP is working on it. They SHOULD though. Unless they do that, it's not going to go away unless they start cutting crap off the playfield to lighten it, and we don't want that.

I remember reading Eric state on at least one occasion that they switched to stronger hooks for Pirates....but then again, my hooks and receiver were so not friendly, that I have no idea if the issue was resolved fully.

That said, I was reading through the Hobbit thread from 3 years back, and holy shit....there were two poor souls that made back to back posts regarding their really, really busted up hooks...maybe due to shipping or who knows really.

#2677 10 months ago
Quoted from Yelobird:

Fact is if you look at how the traditional playfield hook is used technically in transport on its backside the playfield is basically Hanging from these little hooks. Compound that with a freight truck finding ever pot hole on the interstate and basically that’s a 700lb force yanking those hooks down all the way to your house. They try to add foam additional support in the back of the playfield but it’s never going to fully keep this from happening. Make them to strong and they crack.

I am constantly in awe that any game arrives anywhere in any form other than a pile. I can't even believe the glass doesn't break!

As particular as I am about NIB game condition, I'm really pretty flabbergasted they arrive often intact. Now if they cost much less....I'd be more forgiving with the end result from shipping.

Just popping these babies up, I'm still amazed at how much tech, parts, and overhead go into a machine!

Loving the Hobbit so far....such a lovely game, and the code and immersion is so spectacular!

2 weeks later
#2728 10 months ago
Quoted from Yelobird:

Assuming a week or so means your traveling so..... If you wish to send me Both boards this time I will reflow All pins and send it back again. Your call trying anything to help you out. Would honestly take me 10 minutes and could return same day they arrive. Just let me know and consider it done. I honestly think you have an issue with the pins on the board of possibly one of the wires in the molex has a loose grip pin. Most times while in test if you simple move the molex plug side to side and up and down you will loose signal showing the bad pin.

You're super helpful! Definitely a really nice gesture that you've made already for this issue, yet alone offering to help out more!

1 week later
#2763 10 months ago


My action button isn't registering. The screw is very extended on the button. What concerns me is the contact switch, in the white module, is limp. I bent it some upwards, but it just flops down and lays on the red switch button. I assume it should extend firmly up at a diagonal, versus just resting on the red button/switch.

Any ideas folks..?

#2776 10 months ago
Quoted from EaglePin:

Is the switch working if you take the lockdown bar off and press it with your finger? I think the metal strip should just lay on the switch button. I don't think it should come up at an angle.

Oooh, well then that switch part should be good, at least!

Quoted from Yelobird:

The blade setup is a fairly common and simple switch used in all areas of pinball. First make sure the Mini screws going through the stacked blade assembly have not loosened up. Mini Philip’s I believe. Make sure they are snug and the switch is aligned when doing so. Then verify that the gap on the contacts is close but not touching. You may need to pull the bar a few times to adjust that. Good luck.

I thought initially last night I might need to realign that assembly. It was screwed in tight, and I screwed it back in after recognizing that there's no play in it's location, unlike say the shooter rod assembly.

I'm going to have to check all of that out tomorrow, seeing where the button is making contact, when the playfield is up, and lockdown bar in place.

Unfortunately, my lockdown bar assembly is still way off, and the yellow handle can't really clear very well when trying to lock things down. I don't think that'd be part of the problem, but I might need to address that......and my wonky shooter assembly as well. The autoforks are still making contact with the plunger, even though I tried to adjust the assembly the other week. I think I'm going to have to shim the hooks with material underneath, even more...

Quoted from heni1977:

I believe there is a two pin connector just under the pf for that switch as well. Don't know if you checked that yet?

Did not, but definitely will! I wonder if me having to press the door and lock assembly in firmly, may have jostled a connection....

Quoted from LTG:

Too much information.
Take the lockdown bar off. Please go to Tests - Switches - Matrixed. Push the arm of the switch. Does it register ? If so the button isn't reaching it. Then adjust the arm or a blob of hot glue on the end of the button where it contacts the switch arm.
If it doesn't work in test. Then check wiring, and then check the switch.
LTG : )

Will do all of the above tomorrow!

Thanks to everyone that took time to read about my problems, and offered solutions, tech wise and medical wise, haha!!!

#2784 9 months ago
Quoted from LTG:

Too much information.
Take the lockdown bar off. Please go to Tests - Switches - Matrixed. Push the arm of the switch. Does it register ? If so the button isn't reaching it. Then adjust the arm or a blob of hot glue on the end of the button where it contacts the switch arm.
If it doesn't work in test. Then check wiring, and then check the switch.
LTG : )

I'm hitting the red button directly, switch isn't being triggered....

And I can't see any loose wires at the white module or where the purple and black wire connect towards the start button...

20200327_205616 (resized).jpg20200327_205634 (resized).jpg
#2786 9 months ago
Quoted from LTG:

Peel back the insulation a bit by the solder joint on the switch lugs. Then go to Tests - Switches - Matrixed , and briefly short those two wires. If it then registers on the screen, you have a broken switch. If not, then you have a break from the switch to the I/O board.
LTG : )

So lugs meaning, the purple and black wires feeding directly into the white module?

How do I short them? Power on, or off?

Thanks for the advice!

#2788 9 months ago
Quoted from LTG:

Lets call the white module a switch. Peel back a tiny bit of the black shrink wrap on both wires. To expose the ends of the wires.

Piece of wire, screw driver, etc.

I'd do it on. Tests - Switches - Matrixed. If off, you might not see anything on the screen when you briefly short them.
LTG : )

Okay, stupid question.

So do you mean the already exposed metal contacts going into the "switch"? Or the back end of it, where the insulation is covering the wires feeding away from the "switch"?

And do I touch both contact point at once, as in both exposed wires or one at a time?

#2789 9 months ago
Quoted from wesman:

Okay, stupid question.
So do you mean the already exposed metal contacts going into the "switch"? Or the back end of it, where the insulation is covering the wires feeding away from the "switch"?
And do I touch both contact point at once, as in both exposed wires or one at a time?

Quoted from LTG:

Lets call the white module a switch. Peel back a tiny bit of the black shrink wrap on both wires. To expose the ends of the wires.

Piece of wire, screw driver, etc.

I'd do it on. Tests - Switches - Matrixed. If off, you might not see anything on the screen when you briefly short them.
LTG : )

Yanno what? That switch test is in Dedicated Switches" and it's firing manually there!

I started my game up, have a plumb bob tilt switch that is red. Odd, as I don't even have mine installed.

My target ship bullseye is red too.

When I started the "target ship hit" was red also, but I cleared that manually by rockin the boat.

20200327_214333 (resized).jpg
#2792 9 months ago
Quoted from LTG:

Yay ! Sorry about that, I thought it was in matrixed.

Not installed - that means you've never tilted the game. If you push the rod to the metal ring in test should clear the error.
In settings, you can turn off the error warning and red dot at start up if you want. Then the only way to see errors is with the game turned on, open coin door, and hit the enter button.
LTG : )

Thank you again for everything my friend!

I think I need to buy a leaf switch adjuster tool to bend this a bit tighter down towards the red button. Other than that, better than it was...!

Now to figure out this coin door/receiver/and shooter rod alignment situation. Well, another day, anyway.

#2812 9 months ago

Welp, trying to do an update with an ISO file, and I'm having consistent errors.

I've tried two different sticks, two different ports even, two burn programs, redownloaded ISO's, and still. Nada.

Anyone ever encounter errors like this?

And the correct usb input on the PC is just behind the cryto key, yes?

20200328_223857 (resized).jpg20200328_223915 (resized).jpg
#2814 9 months ago
Quoted from LTG:

Others have.
Have you done a full install before ?
Things people run into ( even if you already tried them ) bad download, try from the other mirror site. USB stick - keep trying different brands 8GB to 16GB nothing else on it formatted to FAT32. Skipping a step or two and not getting it on the USB stick right. Trying the Delta method of install instead of the correct Full Install.
Your USB cable looks plugged in right. You can plug the USB stick into any open port on the motherboard.
LTG : )

.99 is a full install, yes?

Is the Delta file even available on the site anymore?

Thank you, as always Lloyd.

#2829 9 months ago
Quoted from zaphX:

By the way your map hole snubber has a gangster lean from the L bracket under it. Might wanna fix that whenever you add cliffys or replace the chapter select rubbers.

Good eye!

I wonder where it's firing to.

#2833 9 months ago
Quoted from Yelobird:

I do believe thats an enter only hole..... no firing out.

Doh! That's what I get for reading posts after 4 hours of sleep...

Yeah, subway action is where that's at.

1 month later
#2969 8 months ago
Quoted from surfsled:

My POTC: The ball gets hung up somewhere on the under ramp that makes the ball roll up into the Black Peal upkicker for the upper pf. Anyone have this issue? My game goes into ball search.

The vertical upkick? You could try raising the power of the VUK coil to the Pearl.

#2974 8 months ago

Seems I have a lowered skirt on my upper middle pop bumper, causing the switch to remain open, and score points when vibrated gameplay wise.

Any ideas on how to adjust this? Doesn't seem to do anything simply by touching it.

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