Its a roll pin. If the pin won’t stay in due to loss of tension in the roll, you can buy a new one at almost any hardware store. Or, you can buy a full assortment of different sizes to keep on hand.

https://www.amazon.com/Tekz-45342-Roll-Pin-Assortment/dp/B0069TW9D2/ref=sr_1_3

You can also buy a punch set to make installing them a whole bunch easier. The punch set is used in gunsmithing to prevent scratches while inserting roll pins.

https://www.amazon.com/TuffMan-Tools-Pin-Punch-9pc/dp/B01F5JC2I8/ref=sr_1_1_sspa

The punches make it super easy! The tips of them go into the end of the roll pin and keep it going in square to the part. Sort of eliminates that uneasy feeling you get from the “hit and hope” method

Your not the only one with this problem. The SE that I had had the same issue. Had to replace the roll pin on the lower left flipper after about 5 plays. More complexing, however, was the fact that the upper playfield flippers were wired backwards. Frustrating, but I got all the problems worked through. Then sold it and bought a CE less than a week later . Love this game!

I like this kind of wire loom, also.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FW388KV/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1

I have and it works great. It is much more forgiving than the corrugated plastic. I think it looks better, too.

Put the pf into service position one and run the test to see if it will work properly. I had this same issue and the wiring loom was interfering with the ship drive mechanism. I Had to make sure loom was pushed out of the way when putting the pf back in.

Like the one on the man overboard part or on the tortuga kickout

No. Looked at the drawings in the manual and saw how the ship was assembled to the playfield. Noticed that the posts the ship ride on pointed toward the back

As to the post issue, instead of washers that change the height, why not use a hollow punch set to punch out the correct size dots or circles out of Mylar.

https://m.harborfreight.com/9-piece-hollow-punch-set-3838.html

Save yourself some trouble and just remove the rear vuk rather than the BP ramp. Once removed, there is plenty of room to slide the ship back and up. Vuk is positively located with only three screws. Versus the ramp which is a pain to reset and adjust.

Yep! All above playfield. Take those three out and VUK lifts right off. I suggest you get a magnetic extension nutdriver to make your life easier when doing this. Some of the screws are buried pretty deep.

https://www.menards.com/main/tools-hardware/power-tool-accessories/drive-bits-accessories/performax-reg-6-magnetic-nut-driver/c045671/p-1444444262480-c-10156.htm?tid=-7500025011283730123&ipos=7
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DEEF2394-B06F-4AAD-90C0-76E07ED78E33 (resized).png

Here are pics of how the bp is connected to the pf. The brackets are in orange.

04536532-77B6-4EFA-A5FB-E57CF33393AA (resized).png

82B1D0D8-BB1F-430E-A9B0-865209FD4977 (resized).png

B298157F-7F3E-4B6C-B458-833600CB4FAE (resized).png

There are two male pins on brackets, one mounted on the pf on a tall standoff and one on the backboard; and two female brackets on the bottom of the bp with oilite bushings.

The punches are hollow on the cutting end. The hollow end’s edges are sharpened for cutting. I have a set that i use for punching holes in gasket material, cloth, leather, etc. I would use a piece of wood under the material being punched to keep from dulling the punch. You hit the solid end of the punch with a hammer, lightly. The slot in the side of the punch is so you can remove the punched out material from the punch itself. In this instance, you would actually be using the punched out material under the pf post.

I’m going to punch mylar circles out that are slightly larger than the post diameter and use these under the posts. I will probably just use an awl to poke a hole for the post screw once the mylar circles are stuck down on the pf.

The sling mylar is the half moon shaped mylars that are shipped in the coinbox. Here is where they would be optionally installed by the slingshots, numbers 0 and 1. The rest of the mylars shown are factory installed.

CB878176-38AC-48B8-A4D1-14FEB525E955 (resized).png

Here is the bp mylar and the part numbers for all mylars.

8AAD269E-09B0-4988-9501-F3FC6F3F7677 (resized).png

The other little square mylars shipped in the coinbox go under the lockdown bar to keep it from scratching the powdercoat on the siderails. Numbers 6 below.

A409BA1A-F49E-4151-95FA-2D1558881E09 (resized).png

I can’t think of a good reason not too. I will definitely share pics!

Hell yes it works! I did it last night. All you have to do is take the two screws off that hold the plastic on. That whole blue plastic is only attached by those two screws. They aren’t even through holes, so u can just loosen them and slide the plastic off.
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Run it in test mode and see how far it goes. Look at the slot on the left side of the ship through the backboard. You can adjust the movement within the travel limits of the slot. If the rod is not hitting the top of the slot, you can adjust it to tip further to the Right

Fortunately, the ship’s side to side travel can be adjusted with it fully assembled. #4 is slotted to allow the length of the 3-4 assembly to be adjusted by loosening the two #13 screws. Basically, you want to adjust it so that it can travel to the top of the slot (ship tilted right) without binding on the top of the slot. Mine barely went to the right until I adjusted it.

E6584687-109B-43C8-977F-506778197D62 (resized).png

Everything about this pin and its adjustments is thoughtfully designed, if you can figure it out. Wish the adjustment procedures were set forth in the manual.

As a PSA, you may want to check your map hole to make sure the ball entering the maphole will not collide with the T-nuts holding on the diverter. I noticed a few of my balls were all chewed and nicked up after only a few plays. I discovered that the left screw behind the diverter had a T-nut under the playfield which interfered with the ball entering the map hole. It is not a quick fix. I had to remove the ship to get to the screw, remove the screw, raise the playfield, and remove the stainless steel subway to get to the T-Nut. You can pull the T-Nut off by screwing in the screw from the bottom side and pulling. Based upon where the hole was, there was no orientation where the T-Nut wings did not in some way interfere with the ball as it entered the map hole. I had to grind one of the wings off of the T-Nut and orient it so that the ground off wing was facing the maphole, but no longer exposed to ball interference.

Not sure if this all machines, but my guess is that based upon the angle of the diverter there are other machines that will have the same issue.

No, because it both sides of it are buried, the screw and the t-nut. the Tnut is basically a flat captive nut.

You could see it protruding into the map hole.

The Map2 doesn’t cover it. I have an extra playfield and if I installed a t-nut it would protrude the same. Based on where the hole is drilled, so close to the map hole, I have to believe this is a more prevalent issue than most realize. I never noticed it until I went looking for it after finding my balls were all nicked up after a few games. It is a real pain in the ass to fix. Bp has to come off along with the subway directly below. On both of my playfields, there is no orientation possible where the T-nut wing won’t protrude into the map hole.

As the hole is already drilled on the bare playfield, I assume they come this way from Mirco and are drilled by a CNC along with the inserts, etc. Stated differently, this is probably not attributable to assembly workers at JJ varying where the hole is drilled. Its my guess that JJ only pounds t-nuts into the existing hole drilled by Mirco. So, I’d be willing to bet that it is on all, if not most, playfields and it has just gone unnoticed.
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The problem is that it is buried on both sides. The BP on top and the subway on bottom.
Once you get the bottom side bare, you can simply thread the screw in from the bottom and pull the t-nut out.

The t-nut is really just a captive nut that allows you to screw in from the topside without holding onto the nut on the bottom side. As you screw in from the top, the teeth on the t-nut sink into the wood and keep it from spinning.
EB7C3E77-DDE1-4D1C-BFFE-F0AEFDF1687C (resized).jpeg

Looking back at your post #2 in this thread, if that is your game it also has the exposed t-nut issue.

A714CC1F-DD31-4B12-BEA1-8998E1FCB717 (resized).png

That’s the conclusion I’ve come to, also. I think it just goes unnoticed until the balls are checked. I have been looking at old pics in the other thread. It looks like they all have it.

On mine it was causing huge damage to the ball. It actually caused gouges, nicks, and sharp burrs in the ball. I believe it has to do with the angle that the ball hits the wing on the T-Nut.

Seemed to stop it completely. Have lots of plays over the weekend and balls are all gouge free. Before, they were nicked up after about 10 plays.

Different materials, different physics, different impact surface areas, etc.

But, hey, it’s your game so it’s your call.

Agree 1000%!!! This is exactly why I have in the past week ceased from sharing the problems and solutions I have encountered.

Starmap installation is possible on an SE, at least with update at .98. All that is missing is a cat 5 cable and 5v power supply. If I remember correctly, Cat 5 connects to J109 under the playfield.

The issue, however, is twofold. (1) JJ will not sell the starmap to an SE owner; (2) the starmap may be blocked on future updates by the SE dongle, like the CE topper is blocked on the LE and SE.

Lower the coil power on the kick out.