(Topic ID: 240503)

jjPirates of the Caribbean Troubleshooting/Tips/Issues

By vireland

3 months ago

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  • 1,851 posts
  • 94 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 9 minutes ago by vireland
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Topic index (key posts)

2 key posts have been marked in this topic

Post #306 Tip on removing the black pearl Posted by rs812 (87 days ago)

Post #1776 Broken trunk mount bracket picture Posted by Soulrider911 (12 days ago)

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#92 3 months ago

Its a roll pin. If the pin won’t stay in due to loss of tension in the roll, you can buy a new one at almost any hardware store. Or, you can buy a full assortment of different sizes to keep on hand.

amazon.com link »

You can also buy a punch set to make installing them a whole bunch easier. The punch set is used in gunsmithing to prevent scratches while inserting roll pins.

amazon.com link »

#95 3 months ago

The punches make it super easy! The tips of them go into the end of the roll pin and keep it going in square to the part. Sort of eliminates that uneasy feeling you get from the “hit and hope” method

Your not the only one with this problem. The SE that I had had the same issue. Had to replace the roll pin on the lower left flipper after about 5 plays. More complexing, however, was the fact that the upper playfield flippers were wired backwards. Frustrating, but I got all the problems worked through. Then sold it and bought a CE less than a week later . Love this game!

#127 3 months ago

I like this kind of wire loom, also.

amazon.com link »

#131 3 months ago
Quoted from wesman:

Have you used this type before? I'd imagine it's more flexible than the other?

I have and it works great. It is much more forgiving than the corrugated plastic. I think it looks better, too.

#159 3 months ago
Quoted from GnarLee:

So I started having some issues with the black pearl today. Speed ramps up very fast and only lists left and level doesnt seem like it hits right. During ship test full motion is there but the opto switches are not triggering properly I think. when ship right, right opto is triggered. when test left both optos are triggered. I think I'm getting a false opto trigger before it gets to center and throws it back left. Guess its time to remove her. Has anyone had a issue similar?

Put the pf into service position one and run the test to see if it will work properly. I had this same issue and the wiring loom was interfering with the ship drive mechanism. I Had to make sure loom was pushed out of the way when putting the pf back in.

#245 3 months ago
Quoted from wesman:

Do you mean like the ones that wiggle onto posts? I had am extra given to me in my goodie bag.

Like the one on the man overboard part or on the tortuga kickout

#306 87 days ago

As an fyi to those removing the ship to put cliffys on, there is no reason to loosen or remove the bp ramp. Just remove the three screws holding the vuk, remove the vuk, and there is plenty of clearance to slide the ship back and remove it. The vuk is positively located, where as the ramp is adjustable, introducing unnecessary variables into the reassembly equation. Further, the brackets that the bp ride on are designed so that the bp is to be removed by sliding it toward the back of the machine, not forward toward the ramp.

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#312 87 days ago
Quoted from wesman:

Did you find this out after adjusting/removing the ramp? I'm having a hard time getting it back in place currently. And the vuk is the real pain in the ass, as far as getting in the way of the ship when removing and resetting it.

No. Looked at the drawings in the manual and saw how the ship was assembled to the playfield. Noticed that the posts the ship ride on pointed toward the back

#317 87 days ago

As to the post issue, instead of washers that change the height, why not use a hollow punch set to punch out the correct size dots or circles out of Mylar.


#319 87 days ago
Quoted from arzoo:

Left flipper on the BP stopped working today. It flips a few times and then goes dead. Physical linkage seems fine. I'm guessing bad solder joint or broken wire. Guess I'll be removing the ship again, ugh!

Save yourself some trouble and just remove the rear vuk rather than the BP ramp. Once removed, there is plenty of room to slide the ship back and up. Vuk is positively located with only three screws. Versus the ramp which is a pain to reset and adjust.

#330 87 days ago
Quoted from wesman:

Nice find! I had wondered, after loosening it, if the VUK was the main culprit, and how difficult that would be to tend to.
Are all of those screws above the playfield?

Yep! All above playfield. Take those three out and VUK lifts right off. I suggest you get a magnetic extension nutdriver to make your life easier when doing this. Some of the screws are buried pretty deep.

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#331 87 days ago

Here are pics of how the bp is connected to the pf. The brackets are in orange.

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#332 87 days ago

There are two male pins on brackets, one mounted on the pf on a tall standoff and one on the backboard; and two female brackets on the bottom of the bp with oilite bushings.

#334 87 days ago
Quoted from wesman:

How do you use this? Is there an extra tool involved?
By the way, for removing the hex key behind the Black Pearl, this set works fantastically! I think the 1/8" is the correct one.

The punches are hollow on the cutting end. The hollow end’s edges are sharpened for cutting. I have a set that i use for punching holes in gasket material, cloth, leather, etc. I would use a piece of wood under the material being punched to keep from dulling the punch. You hit the solid end of the punch with a hammer, lightly. The slot in the side of the punch is so you can remove the punched out material from the punch itself. In this instance, you would actually be using the punched out material under the pf post.

#338 87 days ago
Quoted from wesman:

Interesting. So you're suggesting using the mylar under the post or around it?

I’m going to punch mylar circles out that are slightly larger than the post diameter and use these under the posts. I will probably just use an awl to poke a hole for the post screw once the mylar circles are stuck down on the pf.

#339 87 days ago

The sling mylar is the half moon shaped mylars that are shipped in the coinbox. Here is where they would be optionally installed by the slingshots, numbers 0 and 1. The rest of the mylars shown are factory installed.

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#342 87 days ago

Here is the bp mylar and the part numbers for all mylars.

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#343 87 days ago

The other little square mylars shipped in the coinbox go under the lockdown bar to keep it from scratching the powdercoat on the siderails. Numbers 6 below.

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#344 87 days ago
Quoted from wesman:

Is there a reason....not to install those sling mylars?
If you do those washer posts, please share photos to show us how they turned out!

I can’t think of a good reason not too. I will definitely share pics!

#379 86 days ago
Quoted from arzoo:

Turns out two of the three screws for the VUK as inaccessible (hidden under plastics), so that won't work, bummer.

Hell yes it works! I did it last night. All you have to do is take the two screws off that hold the plastic on. That whole blue plastic is only attached by those two screws. They aren’t even through holes, so u can just loosen them and slide the plastic off.
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#397 85 days ago

Run it in test mode and see how far it goes. Look at the slot on the left side of the ship through the backboard. You can adjust the movement within the travel limits of the slot. If the rod is not hitting the top of the slot, you can adjust it to tip further to the Right

#399 85 days ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Thanks, I'll check it out. With all my fiddling I hadn't looked at how that works and now the game is all together again and it needs some play time!

Fortunately, the ship’s side to side travel can be adjusted with it fully assembled. #4 is slotted to allow the length of the 3-4 assembly to be adjusted by loosening the two #13 screws. Basically, you want to adjust it so that it can travel to the top of the slot (ship tilted right) without binding on the top of the slot. Mine barely went to the right until I adjusted it.

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#400 85 days ago

Everything about this pin and its adjustments is thoughtfully designed, if you can figure it out. Wish the adjustment procedures were set forth in the manual.

#403 84 days ago

As a PSA, you may want to check your map hole to make sure the ball entering the maphole will not collide with the T-nuts holding on the diverter. I noticed a few of my balls were all chewed and nicked up after only a few plays. I discovered that the left screw behind the diverter had a T-nut under the playfield which interfered with the ball entering the map hole. It is not a quick fix. I had to remove the ship to get to the screw, remove the screw, raise the playfield, and remove the stainless steel subway to get to the T-Nut. You can pull the T-Nut off by screwing in the screw from the bottom side and pulling. Based upon where the hole was, there was no orientation where the T-Nut wings did not in some way interfere with the ball as it entered the map hole. I had to grind one of the wings off of the T-Nut and orient it so that the ground off wing was facing the maphole, but no longer exposed to ball interference.

Not sure if this all machines, but my guess is that based upon the angle of the diverter there are other machines that will have the same issue.

#412 84 days ago
Quoted from heni1977:

These winged nuts, can they be easily replaced with a plastic lock nut?

No, because it both sides of it are buried, the screw and the t-nut. the Tnut is basically a flat captive nut.

#413 84 days ago
Quoted from wesman:

Man, that sounds exhausting....but phew, definitely glad you got it fixed up, and thank you for the detailed fix!
Could you feel the issue with your finger via the map hole?

You could see it protruding into the map hole.

#483 82 days ago
Quoted from vireland:

Wouldn't the MAP2 metal piece of the Cliffy set have covered that T-nut protrusion anyway?

The Map2 doesn’t cover it. I have an extra playfield and if I installed a t-nut it would protrude the same. Based on where the hole is drilled, so close to the map hole, I have to believe this is a more prevalent issue than most realize. I never noticed it until I went looking for it after finding my balls were all nicked up after a few games. It is a real pain in the ass to fix. Bp has to come off along with the subway directly below. On both of my playfields, there is no orientation possible where the T-nut wing won’t protrude into the map hole.

As the hole is already drilled on the bare playfield, I assume they come this way from Mirco and are drilled by a CNC along with the inserts, etc. Stated differently, this is probably not attributable to assembly workers at JJ varying where the hole is drilled. Its my guess that JJ only pounds t-nuts into the existing hole drilled by Mirco. So, I’d be willing to bet that it is on all, if not most, playfields and it has just gone unnoticed.
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#486 82 days ago
Quoted from wesman:

Can the tnut just be removed? What tool removes them anyway?
I can't imagine the glass breaking like that. I'm so sorry.... AUKraut

The problem is that it is buried on both sides. The BP on top and the subway on bottom.
Once you get the bottom side bare, you can simply thread the screw in from the bottom and pull the t-nut out.

The t-nut is really just a captive nut that allows you to screw in from the topside without holding onto the nut on the bottom side. As you screw in from the top, the teeth on the t-nut sink into the wood and keep it from spinning.
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#534 81 days ago
Quoted from vireland:

Wouldn't the MAP2 metal piece of the Cliffy set have covered that T-nut protrusion anyway?

Looking back at your post #2 in this thread, if that is your game it also has the exposed t-nut issue.

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#536 81 days ago
Quoted from vireland:

Yeah, I checked, it does. Looking at where it's drilled, all the jjPotC have to be the same way.

That’s the conclusion I’ve come to, also. I think it just goes unnoticed until the balls are checked. I have been looking at old pics in the other thread. It looks like they all have it.

#541 81 days ago
Quoted from BC_Gambit:

Re: the T-nut issue:
I can see fixing it, but is it really causing undue ball damage?
Have you seen all the other things a ball can contact on this game? E.g. even the auto plunger... it is literally two pieces of rounded metal that "bash" the ball into play...

On mine it was causing huge damage to the ball. It actually caused gouges, nicks, and sharp burrs in the ball. I believe it has to do with the angle that the ball hits the wing on the T-Nut.

#543 81 days ago
Quoted from BC_Gambit:

I guess did this damage stop after the fix?
Great news if it did. I need to check my game and balls, I just didn't want to chase down that rabbit hole if it was being caused by normal game play, combined with a "new" game that had some naturally sharp edges here and there (that would dull eventually with ball impacts).

Seemed to stop it completely. Have lots of plays over the weekend and balls are all gouge free. Before, they were nicked up after about 10 plays.

#583 81 days ago
Quoted from f3honda4me:

Yea the T-nut thing is a non issue in my book. The auto plunger is just like the T-nut except as you said, literally hammers the ball multiple times every game.

Different materials, different physics, different impact surface areas, etc.

But, hey, it’s your game so it’s your call.

1 week later
#845 70 days ago
Quoted from gumnut01:

Sorry for going on, but it is disheartening to report something and then have it discounted by others.

Agree 1000%!!! This is exactly why I have in the past week ceased from sharing the problems and solutions I have encountered.

#1009 67 days ago
Quoted from JamCat:

Does anyone know if it's possible to install the starmap on an SE? Or is the SE missing the connectors and other essential hardware for it? I've been trying to get an LE or CE and just can't get my hands on one to save my life. As soon as one is listed it's sold in minutes. I've got all of the instant alerts setup, but still miss out every time. I was thinking of buying an SE and trying to upgrade it as an alternative. What else is missing off the SE besides startmap, powder coat topper, shaker and invisiglass?

Starmap installation is possible on an SE, at least with update at .98. All that is missing is a cat 5 cable and 5v power supply. If I remember correctly, Cat 5 connects to J109 under the playfield.

The issue, however, is twofold. (1) JJ will not sell the starmap to an SE owner; (2) the starmap may be blocked on future updates by the SE dongle, like the CE topper is blocked on the LE and SE.

1 week later
#1163 59 days ago
Quoted from MarZ_78:

I have a reoccurring issue where the ball comes out of the depths doesn't travel smoothly down the "P" lane and ends up bouncing around the "I" lane and ball gate before draining. Happens about 5%/10% of times. Anyone else experiencing this issue or better yet know a fix?
My last ball in my Grand Champion game ended with this happening last night.

Lower the coil power on the kick out.

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