(Topic ID: 240503)

jjPirates of the Caribbean Troubleshooting/Tips/Issues jjPotC Tech


By vireland

7 months ago



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  • Latest reply 33 minutes ago by EaglePin
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Topic index (key posts)

3 key posts have been marked in this topic

Post #306 Tip on removing the black pearl Posted by rs812 (7 months ago)

Post #501 More tips on removing black pearl mini playfield Posted by LTG (7 months ago)

Post #1776 Broken trunk mount bracket picture Posted by Soulrider911 (5 months ago)


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#871 6 months ago
Quoted from Yelobird:

Only edit I would make to your story. to ISSUES HE CREATED! lol

I said this months ago.

Likely 50% of all issues in this thread are from people tinkering with shit and not putting it back together exactly the same or bumping something out of position or even breaking things whether it be from modding, installing cliffys, PF protectors, I could go on and on.

Only real issue I’ve seen that I would say is a real issue was the button and that is on a machine built way back on 10/8.

#873 6 months ago
Quoted from zaphX:

Some issues are without question user induced. I had one of these myself where I snapped a screw in a post adjusting the black pearl ramp.
However saying the button is the only real issue is flatly inaccurate. Soldering broken wires on the pearl was a real issue, for example. I’d posit most of the issues on the index qualify as “real issues.”
Most machines only have one or two of the items on the list. The point of having it is to help people find fast solutions and get playing again. This hopefully relieves some support pressure on JJP and shortens the turnaround time for people to fix their problems.

Didn’t say the button was the only issue but other than the broken leg bracket out of the box it has been the only issue I have experienced on my very early build.

I did have other adjustments to make but they weren’t problems it was simple pinball stuff that didn’t require any parts or MacGyver type engineering plans.

#874 6 months ago

Anyone able to identify these parts I found in cabinet?

Everything seems fine and could be junk from assembly but want to be sure.

03431217-529C-4651-AAC5-CFA67BEA0FAC (resized).jpeg
#876 6 months ago
Quoted from Yelobird:

I say its a rubber ring and a screw! Winner!!! lol No idea may have been assembly drop ins on accident. Keep your eye on things and toss them in the coin box just in case.

Kind of what I figured. It’s a nylon bushing but a very thin one and the screw doesn’t seem to look like any of the others at least the rounded head of it anyway.

Mystery parts I guess until something falls apart, lol.

#878 6 months ago
Quoted from zaphX:

The nylon bushing looks like the ones used on the Pearl control arm behind the playfield. Are both of them present? If so you got a bonus one!

I’ll take a look next time I yank the PF, I haven’t had any issues with the Pearl so I’m going to assume it’s an extra. I haven’t removed the Pearl so there is zero chance I dropped it in there while removing etc...

#880 6 months ago
Quoted from zaphX:

It is pretty common to find "bonus parts" in the cabinet. When you drop things in a game, sometimes they aren't easy to find. I had a screw and a washer in mine.

If only we could find some gold coins in there!

#881 6 months ago
Quoted from zaphX:

It is pretty common to find "bonus parts" in the cabinet. When you drop things in a game, sometimes they aren't easy to find. I had a screw and a washer in mine.

Do you have a reference for the pearl schematic to see if both bushings are present?
Not sure why I’m not seeing this in the manual.

#886 6 months ago
Quoted from Maurice:

I believe this post should be out of and not in the Subway ramp, isn’t it? Correct me if I’m wrong. I received my machine NIB like this. I already removed the Subway and positioned the post out of the Subway ramp.
Replaced the 12V flashers from the 5 spotlights with warm white. Looks much better and creates a warmer atmosphere on the playfield.
Replaced the stock pinballs. They were magnatised from the start.
Replaced 3 large flipper rubbers with silicone. Stock are junk rubber.
Other than that: game workshop fine.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Are the photos showing correct placement or stock inside subway?

Honestly can’t tell by looking.

#889 6 months ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Photo is showing it inside the subway, it should not be.

Can someone post a photo of it out?

I looked at this a while back and swear I didn’t have a post at all.

#892 6 months ago
Quoted from vireland:

As I understand it, the post just helps keep balls from getting backed up and one or more lost in there during multiball.

I’ve had that happen a couple times, a nudge of the machine usually gets them moving. In my case at least I was able to rule out magnetism as it happened with new balls in the machine.

#898 6 months ago
Quoted from DrDQ:

Check your Chest Fork Mechanism under the playfield to see if one of the guide pins came out. You may have 1 or two more parts in the cabinet. The nylon part doesn’t seem like that one but I figured I would mention it
.
[quoted image]

This was the first thing I looked at and I’m assuming your referring to the screw on each side in the vertical slot that allows the fork to ride up and down. Both screws and bushings there.

The other place I checked was the backside of the pearl and both bushings present. This one I found is thinner and a smaller diameter than the pearl bushings and obviously a different style than the fork mech bushings.

I’m thinking they may be scrap pieces from assembly because everything seems to be working fine.

On a different note...

Is it worth dicking with the color and contrast of monitor? I don’t have an issue with the quality but if the gains are significant, I guess I should tweak it a bit. What’s the consensus?

#900 6 months ago

Well son of a bitch!

Was poking around the game today after putting about 50 games on it and what do I discover? Lower left sling post chipping has begun.

What’s the safest bet here for minimizing further? I have 3/4” semi clear washers as recommended earlier and Mylar.

Thoughts?

I can live with a chip but don’t want the whole area flaking up.

Pisses me off!

#906 6 months ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Where are your clear washers located? I'm guessing up near the sling plastics because you didn't mention that you changed the star posts and it'd look really weird to have the 3/4" washers under the narrow star posts. Or did your game come with the tiny clear washers under the posts already? Either way, here is what I did:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/potc-sling-chip-mitigation-amp-plastic-protection
Some other discussion:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jjpirates-of-the-caribbean-troubleshooting-tips-issues/page/9#post-4966016
Post some pics of your existing setup so we can track data points and see what is happening on other games.

I was still stock, no washers on PF. Not too worried about the plastics.

Trying to decide Mylar then 3/4 washer with skinny JJP post on it or Mylar, 3/4 washed and star posts which I don’t have.

#908 6 months ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Ahhhh, I thought you said you had washers installed so I was interested to know how it was chipping/cracking.

Quoted from harryhoudini:

Ahhhh, I thought you said you had washers installed so I was interested to know how it was chipping/cracking.

Ordered the 3/4” from pinball life in anticipation of this.

Just trying to determine the best resolution to cover the small chip and prevent more but also look ok.

What star posts did you go with?

#915 6 months ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

I was looking for a darker amber color but couldn't find anything to match. I just got red for my TOM and they are really red, the playfield is more orange brown. I guess there aren't too many color options for star posts.
BTW, those are aqua or light blue depending on who you order from. But everyone calls the dark blue, "blue". Only some places have the aqua. I ordered from a few places to get color options and they ended up all being the same.

I’m ordering clear, turquoise and amber from pinball life. They don’t have all of them pictured.

3/4” washers the proper size for under these star posts?

Edit - disregard, I read your post again. harryhoudini

#919 6 months ago

Looks like until I can get some star posts I’ll need to install the skinny factory posts on the 3/4” lexan washers.

Has there been any digging in with the star posts on top of the washers?

Anyone who has had the chipping put any type of automotive clear coat on the chip or any other product?

#946 6 months ago

Why not put star posts on all three?

You going to make a set with 6 of the larger Mylar washers?

#950 6 months ago

These look much thinner than most of the lexan and nylon washers, is this the case?

#957 6 months ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Considerably, probably 1/4 the thickness I'd guess of PETG washers.

Decisions decisions....

I’m thinking if you already have a chip thicker might be better but if doing preventative the Mylar would be the way to go.

#962 6 months ago
Quoted from vireland:

If you're chipping, a washer isn't going to hold anything together.

I understand that part but since the area is getting totally covered wouldn’t it be a good idea to seal the chip up and then cover with Mylar or washer?

If you just lay the Mylar over the chip it will be impossible to remove and replace if ever needed.

#1025 6 months ago

I like the flickering, I think it is supposed to simulate the flickering of a torch flame.
Problem is the led color isn’t warm and doesn’t really make it seem like that. It also doesn’t help that the torches on the topper are a sticker or decal.

#1033 6 months ago

My spots don’t flicker with topper

2 weeks later
#1363 6 months ago

Not sure if anyone has been having issues with repeatedly hitting the tortuga shot and getting it to stick.

Received the new revised snubber bracket from JJP today and the shot is now repeatable with no brick outs.

It appears the original snubber(shorter version) was causing some restriction both going in and out of the vuk hole. I say this because I was running factory power setting of 22 and it was good but with the new bracket I had to dial all the way down to 11 to get the eject to the left flipper and not be too hot. 22 was creating a slight airball issue and a rocket eject.

Thought this was quite interesting and pass it along.

Makes a huge difference in scoring to be able to consistently hit this shot now!

#1413 6 months ago
Quoted from gumnut01:

Trying to decide between kraken blades from Tilt vs pirate blades from pingraffix. I think the kraken ones look a bit moodier. The pingraffix might be too bright, too much yellow?

https://www.pingraffix.com/product-page/pirates-of-the-caribbean-pinblades-jersey-jack-pinball

https://www.tiltgraphicsinc.com/product-page/jjp-pirates-of-the-caribbean-the-kraken-gameblades

Thoughts?

I went with the Kraken

#1417 6 months ago
Quoted from vireland:

Just sucks that the Kraken blade art is on the "wrong" side if you have the Kraken mod...

The kraken should be near the pearl and if I recall the kraken did eventually get he pearl. Why have a kraken next to a kraken on the same side?

Plus the stormy seas tie into the maelstrom scene very well.

#1418 6 months ago

I’m very happy with them.

#1454 6 months ago
Quoted from jarozi:

Does anyone know how to remove the Black Pear l lamps? I have one that doesn't illuminate very well, I think it's not in contact with the LED below it very well. This is the lamp I'm talking about, not mine, from the internet...
[quoted image]

Quoted from jarozi:

Does anyone know how to remove the Black Pear l lamps? I have one that doesn't illuminate very well, I think it's not in contact with the LED below it very well. This is the lamp I'm talking about, not mine, from the internet...
[quoted image]

You need to remove the plastic right next to flipper.

I had to drill my hole for led out a bit. Wasn’t lighting much at all, it fixed the issue.

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