(Topic ID: 240503)

jjPirates of the Caribbean Troubleshooting/Tips/Issues jjPotC Tech


By vireland

1 year ago



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5 key posts have been marked in this topic

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #306 Tip on removing the black pearl Posted by rs812 (1 year ago)

Post #501 More tips on removing black pearl mini playfield Posted by LTG (1 year ago)

Post #1776 Broken trunk mount bracket picture Posted by Soulrider911 (1 year ago)

Post #2470 JJP kit information for doing 220v to 110v conversion. Posted by Vitty (1 year ago)

Post #2844 Auto-launch misfire adjustment. Posted by Yelobird (9 months ago)


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#1987 1 year ago

Hey Folks, Just finished reading the first 20 pages of this POTC Tips thread. I'm also 40 pages into the 253 page "Owners" thread. I unpacked my NIB LE yesterday and it's has played wonderfully out of the box. Built 2/22/2019.

I have a question which I've not come across yet in all my reading.... I'm not thrilled with the way the ball lands on the PF from the Shooter wireform. Has anyone developed a Mod for this? I don't understand why JJP would just throw a metal ball onto a wooden table. Mylar isn't going to help in the long run it would seem?

Thanks in advance.
Murphy

#1989 1 year ago
Quoted from vireland:

There's already Mylar on the playfield in the landing zone.
The green on this pic from page 220 of the manual is where the mylar is...[quoted image]

Thank you for the quick response! How is this area holding up for "high game count" owners?

I changed all 6 Sling Posts to Star Posts with the Marco thin rubber washers before playing game 1. Just trying to protect my investment, though I
can't ever seeing us selling this game! Love it!

#1991 1 year ago
Quoted from vireland:

The only area that isn't protected that should be IMO is the place where the forks come up. The jjPotC here chipped there within the first week.

PinMonk can you please post a picture of this area you mention? I'm trying to figure out "where the forks come up". Sorry to be a Nube about this game.
Thanks for putting up with my questions. - Murph

#1993 1 year ago
Quoted from LTG:

Under the chest. Two slots.
Ball rolls under the chest and if the two forks are up, the ball hops up into the trunk. If the two forks are down, the balls keeps rolling through.
LTG : )

Excellent! Thanks Lloyd!

#2014 1 year ago
JJP POTC Precious (resized).jpg
#2033 1 year ago
Quoted from Lancelin2k14:

Thanks so much, really easy fix and all done. Felling very self accomplished

Great job! The POTC might take a bit of "tuning" as you'll see. But completely worth the time dialing it in. And it's all about as hard as you've
experienced. Great job taking care of it yourself.

2 weeks later
#2061 1 year ago

Hey folks! I'd like to upgrade from .98 to .99 today. I've followed the JJP directions and used UNETBOOTIN to transfer the code onto a USB stick. I've used a 16GB only stick per JJP's advice.
The thing is, when I check the contents of the USB stick when it's finished.... there's a lot of different files on there. I'm worried that some of that is non essential, but
I'm guessing everyone that has done this could help enlighten me.

The entire thing went flawlessly on the transfer, and worked exactly how the JJP tutorial screens said it should.
Thoughts or advice before I take the plunge and plug in the USB?
Thanks in advance.
Murphy

#2062 1 year ago

Double Post. Sorry.

#2067 1 year ago
Quoted from 3pinballs:

Also, The ball gets stuck here.   I have to lift BP, up then pull it forward.  This happens from time to time.   JJP sent me the brackets from underneath the BP, but haven't installed them yet.  What do you think it could be causing this problem?

Go to Page One of this Thread. Look at the first post in the Section Titled "Ship Related Problems". See Item #5 under "Ship Related Problems". You need to adjust your ramp. It will solve issues with both the BP ball getting stuck, and the Wire Form. Takes all of about 1 minute. : )
Murphy

#2068 1 year ago

Double Post. Sorry> that's twice today! I have brain fog I guess.

#2117 1 year ago
Quoted from DerGoetz:

JJP POTC PLAYFIELD "BANDAID" GUIDE
Was thinking about making this a new post but decided to squeeze it in here instead. This will be a longer one.
First of all, I was one of those who got a call from Jack after I filed a claim through their website and supplied photos of my Collector's Edition pooled and chipped playfield.
Backstory: Before I ordered my POTC CE through Joe Newhart I asked Joe what would happen should my CE look like the CE that I had just played (January 2019) at the Durham Boxcar Barcade before I picked up the phone to order one from Joe.
That one at Boxcar showed heavy pooling in multiple places.
I made it clear that I would not take the risk of purchasing should the situation not be under control and should there be no adequate support. I was told that SINCE it was the Collector's Edition I would be experiencing preferred treatment should anything happen in regards to the playfield.
Now here we are, I own a heavily pooled POTC CE, in one place there is chipping and I have Jack on the phone.
And he said his piece, offered me a new playfield. I kindly explained that not him, nor Joe nor I myself will have the time to install a playfield here at my house and that the offer is not good enough as it has no immediate value, having the playfield repopulated would cost me a further expense of at least US$1000 and why should these US$1000 come out of MY pocket?! There is three parties involved here and I am the one taking the biggest hit??
To say that we had a discussion would be an exaggeration. He said his piece, offered me a new playfield and would not reply nor react to my concerns. Instead he wished me a good day an hung up.
Joe was on a well deserved vacation and I made sure to contact him and Jack via email. I shared, twice, my concerns with Joe, that offering a playfield is unacceptable for a Collector's Edition customer who paid such a premium and was promised preferred treatment should EXACTLY this happen. When I emailed Joe I had JJP in the CC to keep it fair and transparent. They did not address my concerns.
Instead I was told that the replacement playfield is being made in the near future and will be coming my way. Oh, good to know.....a one sided agreement, that is new to me.
Now, I have never been treated by a company like that before. A complete one-way conversation with a one-way solution at a 12.5k pricepoint. They did not try nor want to discuss with me what I would feel an adequate solution would be. I was force fed their preferred solution.
So be it. I'm a quick learner.
Let's tackle that playfield as I sure as heck will NOT do a swap.
First I ordered that Iron that you guys recommended, was it Vireland or Houdini?
[quoted image]
I then got, from https://www.microfasteners.com/neoprene-bonded-steel-washers.html their size 10 rubber-backed washers.
[quoted image]
From Jersey Jack their POTC post kit (Thank you JJP, you guys sent it out next day and it was here in no-time, now THAT is service!!!)
[quoted image]
Both slings were pooled, the left one had a nasty chip. I'm only showing the left side to make it at least a bit shorter of a post.
I removed the posts.
[quoted image]
And that showed me how much that pooling had pulled the paint and clear back
[quoted image]
Now it was time to heat up that iron and press down for only a few second.
[quoted image]
Hard to see but the pooling was completely flattened, all that was left was the slight indent of the post in the wood. NICE!
Of course there was little I could do about the chipping.
[quoted image]
But I was going to install the star posts and washers that JJP supplied
[quoted image]
NICE!!!!!
Now for the posts:
There are two kind, the ones that end in Blind Nuts (short posts) and the ones that go through the playfield, show a washer and Lock Nut under the playfield (long posts). Those are typically the ones that are to be moved in and out to close and open the outlanes.
Heavy pooling in all locations on the lower part of the playfield.
[quoted image]
etc....
For the short ones (ending in the Blind Nuts) I used the small plastic washers that JJP supplied as there was no room to add the rubber-backed ones.
First step flattening, the pooling again was completely gone, only the indent wood remained
[quoted image]
Then I added the JJP washers
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
For the adjustable posts (long) I used the rubber-backer #10 washers.
[quoted image]
Pooling
[quoted image]
Flattened
[quoted image]
Install
[quoted image]
Done and I am happy with it.
To make it clear as I know that some of you will already be foaming at the mouth:
Crap happens! And I know it. It happens in my line of work all the time, Murphy's law is in full effect - always.
Now it is up to the manufacturer and dealer on how to make it right by the customer.
It was disappointing is that I as an owner of a Collector's Edition - who even brought THIS EXACT scenario up before purchase - got the standard treatment, no discussion. We did not even agree on anything, they "agreed for me"
Again, I am fine with the way the playfield repair turned out, I can now look at my POTC and smile again, all is forgotten when it comes to the pinball itself. What I am not fine with is this "Collector's Edition" experience that I had the pleasure to experience.

Got one too! It worked great on my Beatles Gold with pooling - which was out of warranty. Looking forward to seeing YeloBirds UV curing lamp as well.

pinball iron (resized).jpg
2 weeks later
#2171 1 year ago

Okay I started having trouble in two areas - 100 plays into ownership and need a guiding hand...

1. Balls draining down the middle aren't registering once they enter the ball trough. I'm going to check level on the playfield tomorrow and insure left to right is good. Do I need to clean an opto as well? The problem is intermittent, and shaking the game to the point of tilt helps the opto trough identify the ball.

2. The Chest will not release captured balls all of a sudden. Was working great, but now won't release. If my ball in play drains, the magnetic switch will click on and off trying to get the balls out. Can someone point me to the pictures of where we are supposed to lightly bend back the metal tab holding the balls? I'll also check to make sure the Magnet is fully engaging the release mech too. I really feel that this Chest issue should be a sticky in post number 1. Can't find it in the thread.... but I know it's there. Many on the "fan" thread though?

Thanks so much in advance!
Murph

#2179 1 year ago

Thanks for all the great replies!! I will check for magnetized balls. Why would magnetized balls not allow a drain to register in the trough? Just curious. Also when I do drain and it doesn’t register, I’ve let the game sit idle for more than 20 seconds before shaking the pin near tilt for it to find the ball.

I’ll let you know the status. And thanks for the bending tip for the small magnet on the chest!

#2182 1 year ago
Quoted from vireland:

Because the ball sticks to the trough steel and slows or stops its motion where it drops in (depending on how strong the magnetism is).

Makes Sense!!! Thanks again PinMonk!

#2200 1 year ago
Quoted from ViperJelly:

I was going to post these very same issues. I feel like mine have almost been from day 1 though.

Okay - for those guru's that guessed I had Magnetized Balls.... you are RIGHT! Every single ball is magnetized. Some balls only in ONE SPOT - which would
explain the randomness of the balls not draining in the trough. I don't know if I've solved it, as I have no "new balls". I'll be running by Marco Specialties after lunch tomorrow ( On Friday's I work about 5 miles from their shop). Should I just order a sleeve of their Standard Silver Jets? Or a Special ball of some type?

Here's the thing - I've got less than 100 plays on the machine. Weird that they would magnetize so quickly. Should I expect to have to change them every 100 games?

More to come tomorrow - after I load in 5 new ball! : )
Murphy

IMG_4015 (resized).JPG
#2220 1 year ago
Quoted from Yelobird:

Thanks for taking the time to post this and illustrate. I suspect many problems happen due to this issue. Nice to see it shared visually for all. Thanks.

Magnetized Balls Update: Went by Marco today. Talked with Steve in depth about Magnetizing occurring. He actually knows a great deal about this topic. Turns out the HIGHER QUALITY balls (like their Silver Jets) Magnetize EASIER. So for everyone saying "just buy a demagnetizer" - that ain't gonna work. The balls will simply magnetize over and over and quicker each time.

The solution is a LOWER quality of ball believe it or not. Steve explained the metal construction of different types of balls and I remained silent and listened. What he doesn't know is that I work in the metal forming industry, and everything he said made perfect sense! LOL

So I bought the "lower grade, not so bright" pinballs, and installed them into my POTC. EVERYTHING worked perfectly straight away. Chest, Ball trough, etc. He said that the lower grade ball will resist being magnetized much better, and he's never heard of the brand I bought being magnetized. So lesson learned. All I can say is that JJP must be using high quality balls. How about that? : )

IMG_4015 (resized).JPG
#2226 1 year ago

I think that the Maelstrom is the least lit area in the game. We need a mod with a "Swirling light effect" around or under the whirlpool. Any Ideas?

1 month later
#2291 1 year ago
Quoted from vireland:

Short/jumper the second and third pin from the top on the left column here (JFP1). It also looks like you have a bent pin in that block. Make sure it's not touching anything.
JJP really needs to put a momentary switch on the outside of the CPU case since this is not an unheard of issue. I had it with WoZ and forgot all about it until now.
[quoted image]

This is why I love Pinside. PinMonk and LTG helped solve a MAJOR heart ache. Two questions though... what made this occur? And why did a momentary jumper fix this?
I'd like to understand.

You guys are awesome!
Murphy

#2296 1 year ago
Quoted from bigdaddy07:

We had family over for Thanksgiving and my sister pretty much cut her kids loose when she arrived.

OMG. I'm way too OCD to allow any unsupervised around our pins. You've got faith. Glad to hear everything worked out in the end.

#2298 1 year ago

Thanks Lloyd! : )

#2316 1 year ago
Quoted from zaphX:

Me too, and I did try that with no effect. I am guessing the CLR CMOS pins load the CMOS with a default set from the ROM.

Can you post a pic of where you shorted the CLR CMOS pins for future reference in case another owner has this issue?

#2318 1 year ago
Quoted from vireland:

From the manual...[quoted image]

Man you are always so helpful!! Love it. Thanks

#2320 1 year ago
Quoted from zaphX:

That's actually not right. The CLR CMOS jumper was right underneath the bank of jumpers for the PWR reset, and was indicated as such on the mobo.
I looked up the manual online for the motherboard when I did this:[quoted image][quoted image]

Excellent! I wondered about that. I'm not as versed in motherboards like you guys. Great picture!!

#2328 1 year ago
Quoted from vireland:

So after the "dead pin" issues two pinsiders had this week and me saying for like the 30th time that JJP should include a momentary switch with their pins since this is not an isolated problem, I decided to stop complaining and just make one for me that covered the power kickstart AND the CMOS clear (for when the CMOS is corrupted, which also prevents booting). It turned out very nice - too nice - so I've decided to add it to the products in the Pin Monk store and sell the kit. It uses one of the three unused cutouts on the CPU box in the JJP backbox to mount to the bottom outside of the CPU box and is totally reversible.
The bracket kit includes 2 momentary switches with color-coded buttons, a housing bracket, top bracket cover, two screws, and an instruction sticker to place above the buttons on the case. I *believe* it will work on all JJP pins using the CPU box in the head (because I am using the unused HDMI cutout in the case, so they need to have this), but working to verify that now. It definitely works with jjPotC, since that's what I developed it on. DEFINITELY improves the process and speed of getting a machine up again where the "boot on power" function of the motherboard has failed since the cover of the CPU case doesn't even have to be removed once this is installed.
This does not work for WoZ or Hobbit (yet), but I'll see what I can do about modifying it for those machines with the CPU in the cabinet rather than the head. I should have it in the store next week once I have the costs nailed down and set a price.
[quoted image]

Alert me and I'll be your first customer. ; )

#2354 1 year ago
Quoted from vireland:

Okay, 17 iterations later, the Kicktap is done and in the Pinmonk store. As usual, I'm not sure about pricing, so I've just picked one I think I can live with. There's a lot of parts for this one, so it may end up more expensive later. I'll have to see how it goes down the road after I've built a bunch.
[quoted image]
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1170-pin-monk/03111-power-cmos-kicktap[quoted image]

Ordred mine! Thanks Victor for putting this together. BTW - your magnetized balls are on their way UPS.
Murph

#2385 1 year ago
Quoted from luckymoey:

I have an extra Comet Pinball trough lighting kit that I'd like to install on POTC. Anyone know where I could pick up 6.3V under the playfield with alligator clips and save me the trouble of researching the manual?

Pirates is a 12v system.

3 weeks later
#2421 1 year ago

Lifted the hood on POTC yesterday to check out a switch, and found these two items sitting in the bottom of the cabinet. These weren't there a month ago.
Any ideas where they come from? Both were in the back right of the cabinet. I haven't messed with the BP. She's been working flawlessly.

IMG_4290 (resized).jpg
#2423 1 year ago
Quoted from GnarLee:

The plastic washer might be the spacer for the bp mech. Goes between backboard and rod that attaches bp to mech. Hard to tell but looks about right size. .

Nope the Nylon Thick Bushing is where it should be on the backside (good guess though) and the front side bronze bushing is fine as well. I did figure out that the screw is exactly the type used to hold the circuit boards to the underside of the playfield. Checked every one of those, and all were where they were supposed to be.

Another thing... while doing an overall search for where the washer might have come from - I found the Opto for the Port Royal orbit had NO BACK and was dislodged. I could not find the back anywhere, but simply put the opto back into the 1/2 housing, and then put both back into the opto hole in the metal guide under the Maelstrom. See pics.

And finally - During the inspection I found ALL FOUR screws that hold the transformer into the cabinet were 3/4 backed out. One was 1 thread away from falling out. I'll chalk this up to the Shaker Motor. I'm not so sure these ultra intricate games need such a violent shaker motor? As Pete Townshend once said..."just a little is enough". ; )
IMG_4296 (resized).JPGIMG_4298 (resized).JPGIMG_4292 (resized).jpg

#2426 1 year ago
Quoted from Izzy24:

I think it came out the rising forks chest mech. There are 4 guides for the forks (2 on each side) consisting of 4 screws, 4 metal sleeves, 4 nylon spacers, and 4 nylon washers. One probably popped out, you should have a sleeve and a spacer around somewhere if those are the parts...[quoted image]

Thanks Izzy! I will check into this.
Regards,
Murph

#2451 1 year ago
Quoted from zaphX:

vireland please add to the index!
PROBLEM: The Depths shoots the ball into the one way gate at the I lane, causing unstoppable drains.
SOLUTION: I tried playing with various settings on the VUK, nothing helped. I returned it to default and taped the one way gate out of the way. Success, not one single drain. So I took a closer look at the gate, and my wife pointed out that the wireform for it was rubbing the light post (see pic.)
I removed it and snipped off a little bit, just enough to keep it from rubbing. This resolved the problem for me.[quoted image]

What would cause the light in the right megaphone in your picture to flicker? The bulb is seated tight. If I manipulate the megaphone it will go out altogether. Poor connection in the light unit itself?

#2455 1 year ago

Last week, I posted a pic of two parts I found inside the bottom cabinet which I could not identify. A fellow pirate advised me these might have been plundered from the Fork Lifter Assembly. (See first picture).

I had a chance to check this weekend, and sure enough... on the port side of the Fork Lifter, the rear guide spacer, washer and screw were missing. (See Second Picture).

I could not for the life of me find the part # 94-005310-12 Round Spacer and Part # 94-003214-065 Round Spacer that are missing. I even looked to see if they might be hanging in a wire loom close by.

I'm posting this for all other Pirates that might one day find this thin 1/2" Nylon Washer in their cabinet bottom. It's practically the only place I can find in the manual where this particular washer is used. (See 3rd pic - part #25)

I'll call JJP this coming week and see if I can order a few of the spacers. Also... the starboard side guides were screwed in tight still. The port side unit was "slightly" loose. Again, this is something we should probably add to our "every 400 games" reliability checklist. My POTC LE has less than 400 games total currently.
Murphy
IMG_4323 (resized).jpgIMG_4319 (resized).jpgIMG_4324 (resized).jpg

#2457 1 year ago
Quoted from zaphX:

Thanks for reporting the find! BTW Home Depot has an assortment of nylon spacers, I'd check there.
#10 x 3/8" Round Spacer, 5/16" OD, Nylon

Thanks. The internal spacer (part # 27) is Aluminum. So I figured I'd just call JJP. But in a pinch it's good to know HD has them! : )

#2469 1 year ago
Quoted from JRBBRJ:

POTC is my first and only game I have purchased. So far I have fixed a few things, changed out the balls a few times, replaced a few sling and flipper rubbers and cleaned/waxed it a few times. It has 2300 games played on it. It is still running great.
Aside from cleaning/waxing and ball replacement periodically. Is there any other preventative maintenance that I should be doing to the machine? Or now is it more of a fix when I notice something isn’t working type thing?

Check Post #2455 above, and inspect the forklift assembly next time you've got the playfield up. ; )

1 week later
#2480 1 year ago
Quoted from vireland:

Problem: Chest won't release balls locked in it.
Solution: Two possibilities (assuming the coil is working):
1. The metal bracket that the coil pulls back to open the gate has bent too far forward, away from the coil that magnetizes to pull it open. So carefully bend the metal in front of the small coil behind the chest so it is closer to the small coil and the coil can "grab" it.
2. There's also a setting on the system menu that lets you change the amount of time the coil holds to let the balls out. Increase the time if the gate is opening, but just not long enough to let the ball out.

Victor, don't forget about possibility #3 = magnetized balls. That was why my balls would not release from the chest. ; )

#2509 12 months ago
Quoted from Soulrider911:

Hey folks, so I know this has come up many times and I am totally stumped. My balls keep getting magnetized. I just got a brand new set and hoped it would fix the issues with my trunk release. Nope... The balls are now so magnetized they are sticking in the ball trough under the apron and are not being fed.
Maybe I need another set of balls or how do I de-magnetize my ball trough?
I would LOVE any guidance here.

Buy carbon steel balls. The shiny ones like silver jets magnetize quickly. Carbon steel does not. Trust me. I've been through what you're experiencing.

2 weeks later
#2592 11 months ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

I was thinking of belt drive. It's on my list to take a look at, I am also annoyed by the sound even with the dampening kit. It made a difference but it's still an annoying sound.
On another note, I came here to post that my game just rebooted. Anyone else have that happen? It was sitting in attract mode (been on for a day or so) and I heard an electrical noise through the speakers (sort of a little pop or what you hear when you reboot a computer). All of the playfield light were stuck on a yellow color and the screen went black. Then it came back on and went through the boot sequence. Weird.

This could also be a power fluctuation from your home energy supplier. We have a pretty sorry power grid where we live, so years ago I installed a "line conditioner" for my pinballs. Steady, flat, power.

#2605 11 months ago
Quoted from paynemic:

So is there a definitive solution to the screws coming out of the fork mechanism and losing the little sliders and spacers? I definitely have that problem and am wondering if loctite is the answer or if something else needs to happen. I searched but only got fragments.
Thanks in advance.

Do you mean this?
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jjpirates-of-the-caribbean-troubleshooting-tips-issues/page/50#post-5408488

If so, JJP sent me the missing parts gratis, I only paid shipping. Just a tiny amount of blue loctite after re-installing has solved the problem for me. I'm keeping an eye on them. It's a beast to get the flat plastic washer in place while threading everything properly. Thus I'd recommend everyone to take a look at this area to make sure you don't have screws backing out.
Murph

#2613 11 months ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

I didn't get that piece? Maybe it was a later addition.

Yes, the Carbon Fiber Bayou piece and one other was added later on. Perhaps it was the BP edge protector as well. Hard to remember. That was back in August 2019.

1 month later
#2773 10 months ago
Quoted from LTG:

Blue LEDs. Take two before bedtime.
LTG : )

Now this... is funny. Damn

#2816 10 months ago
Quoted from LTG:

Others have.
Have you done a full install before ?
USB stick - keep trying different brands 8GB to 16GB nothing else on it
LTG : )

Remember not to use larger than 16GB. I had an issue with 8GB - perhaps being "almost" too small? But 16GB worked perfectly.

#2827 10 months ago
Quoted from zaphX:

If the left flipper is the one sticking, yep! Loosen it, slide the assembly vertically until you can feel the plunger work with no resistance, then tighten it back down (hard)

I noticed this same left flipper on my BP was a little sticky too - but only because I manually manipulated it and found out that way. It is still working normal during game play, but I'm definitely concerned. So thanks for posting this! I'll work on it this week as well. : )

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