(Topic ID: 240503)
Linked Games
Pirates of the Caribbean
Jersey Jack, 2018-
Pirates of the Caribbean (CE)
Jersey Jack, 2018
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Pirates of the Caribbean (LE)
Jersey Jack, 2018
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Quoted from jarozi:Upvote this post if your JJP POTC came with ZERO out of the box problems. Mine's coming in the the next week or two and just curious if there's a shot I can just plug n' play.
Not afraid of problems mind you, just would be dandy if I'm able to rock and roll from jump street, thanks friends.
Can't wait!
Just got mine yesterday, hasn’t needed a single adjustment, other than a tight lock bar. You’ll be fine.
Can someone point me to the instructions to remove the ship to Install the cliffy for the map hole?
Does the pop bumper need to come out to Install the mystery hole cliffy?
Quoted from zaphX:To remove the Pearl, lift the playfield. You will have to clip some of the zip ties to free up all the plugs going to the Pearl, I think there are 7 of them. Make careful note of what goes where. Most of the plugs only go in one place, but there are 3 on the right that are all the same and are color-coded to their homes.
Once you have the harness loose and unplugged, go back topside. Move the spotlight out of the way. Remove the hex bolt behind the Pearl and push the Pearl toward the back, then up and out. Some people loosen the Pearl ramp and/or remove the VUK to make removal/replacement easier. I didn't do these things, kinda wish I did. When you put the Pearl back on, consider adding some kind of wire loom protection to the harness so it won't rub.
To remove Tortuga Tom there is a hole in the side that takes an Allen wrench. Loosen that and Tom lifts right off. From there 2 screws to remove the motor (watch for falling spacers) and then loosen the two screws in the bottom of the pop - do not remove them. From this point you can remove the Tortuga scoop for your cliffy install. When you reassemble, aim it to the left and test it a few times to make sure it hits the flipper (and not the ball guide or SDTM.) I used blue loctite on this scoop which has held it solidly and my scoop ejects are perfect.
Many thanks! Doesn't sound too bad.
Quoted from gliebig:My yellow lockdown handle is so tight, I have to use two hands to move it.
the two brass screws under the lockdown bar can be adjusted to make it easier.
Quoted from gliebig:Sweet. Man, they had them cranked down from the factory.
Mine we're really cranked down too.
Quoted from Mr_G_Hosting:Happens while playing, and in attract mode.
I only know my game, never seen one on location.
But if it’s supposed to do that i’m ok with it of course!
Thanks.
Mine does it, I don’t like it.
Quoted from joseph5185:I like it...
lol
Would think there's options for this in the menu.
there is an option for topper and GI brightness in the settings. if you put it on max, it's not supposed to flicker, lowering the value may cause flickering. No idea why this would be the case or what is causing it. It happens on DI too with the betty spotlight.
Quoted from indypinhead:I just realized that my chest ball lock isn't working at all.
Any pointers?
What do you mean by not working? You can’t shoot a ball into the chest?
Quoted from zaphX:It looks like I am starting to see a bit of wear on Tortuga so I'm going ahead and getting Cliffys.
For the folks who have installed them - did you remove any mylar before doing so? Would like more info.
I didn’t remove the Mylar.
Just had a minor issue with the left upper flipper not falling back down all the way. Took the spring off, shortened it a few loops and it’s back to normal.
1 month later
Quoted from harryhoudini:Stupid question maybe, but is something sticking in the mech when the playfield is down? Like a loose/unused molex?
Nope, nothing sticking.
I shortened the spring another half inch and it's playing ok now.
I have a love hate relationship with potc sometimes.
1 week later
Quoted from 3pinballs:Had the hammer on left sling pop under the rubber. I know someone else had that issue ... what’s the fix.
Also the right option on entrance to maelstrom ramp came off again . Doesn’t seem like it snaps in firmly Maybe I’ll put dab of clear caulk on it
Ive experienced both issues.
Hammer escape is fixed with a double star post.
I had to use black duct tape to hold the opto in. It would not seat in the hole and I think the screw near it prevents that. I tried a little hot glue, didn’t hold. Small piece of black duct tape has fixed it.
1 week later
Quoted from tgrinchy:So I’m starting to experience intermittent stuck flipper on the right side of the BP.
Pressing the coil shaft all the way in with my finger causes some resistance and can stick if push in the full throw. Is lube a bad idea or what would be best route to address?
Make sure all the hardware holding the flipper mechs in place are tight. I had an upper left sticking flipper, turned out the hex screw holding the coil stop plate in place was loose, causing the plunger to rub the coil sleeve on the return.
2 weeks later
Quoted from pinballmlb:I'm having a problem where during Multiball, I may end up with 2 or 3 balls in The Depths. The game will try and try to eject a ball, but usually it fails. Eventually the game times out or I end it by going into the menu. It is quite simple to eject all of the balls with the coil test, but during the game, they get stuck. Inevitably, this happens during a good game, so I lose out on a good score. Any advice? Thanks
Sounds like a flaky switch or opto. Look underneath and make sure the switche(s) are tight and the optos are all in place
1 week later
Quoted from jeffspinballpalace:Having undefined issues with JJPOTC and can't figure out what to adjust. Issues can be added to game log.
Problem 1 - when locked in star map area, a ball rests against up post and leans left or right. When it leans left and the up post is dropped, ball often drains down the middle without touching anything. Hoping code would have addressed this possibility and still pulling for a software fix, but what can I try now?
Approach 1 - first thought is to lower right rear leg leveler, causing back part of game to lean ever so slightly to the right. See if this snags ball on way down.
Problem 2 - ball passing through I-inlane drains 99% of time. Player should be able to nudge ball occasionally to flip into the left flipper lane, but nothing works.
Approach 2 - ball needs to catch the edge of metal guide in order to be diverted into flipper lane. Needs to Unscrew something, add something and make it happen. Really don't have any ideas.
Dialed in had an issue where ball would go sdtm from the theater. Fix was to raise the back right leg three or four turns and it would fall to the left flipper, it worked. Maybe code can pulse the magnet as it releases or add a short ball save if raising back leg doesn’t work. It’s rare mine goes sdtm, but it does happen.
For problem 2, very tough to save it on my game. I try to nudge before it gets into the I lane, have more success with that than once it goes into the lane.
3 months later
Quoted from PinMonk:So after the "dead pin" issues two pinsiders had this week and me saying for like the 30th time that JJP should include a momentary switch with their pins since this is not an isolated problem, I decided to stop complaining and just make one for me that covered the power kickstart AND the CMOS clear (for when the CMOS is corrupted, which also prevents booting). It turned out very nice - too nice - so I've decided to add it to the products in the Pin Monk store and sell the kit. It uses one of the three unused cutouts on the CPU box in the JJP backbox to mount to the bottom outside of the CPU box and is totally reversible.
The bracket kit includes 2 momentary switches with color-coded buttons, a housing bracket, top bracket cover, two screws, and an instruction sticker to place above the buttons on the case. I *believe* it will work on all JJP pins using the CPU box in the head (because I am using the unused HDMI cutout in the case, so they need to have this), but working to verify that now. It definitely works with jjPotC, since that's what I developed it on. DEFINITELY improves the process and speed of getting a machine up again where the "boot on power" function of the motherboard has failed since the cover of the CPU case doesn't even have to be removed once this is installed.
Though it technically works for WoZ or Hobbit if you plug it in, there's no proper mounting for it (yet) because the case is different and in the cabinet, but I'll see what I can do about modifying it for those machines with the CPU in the cabinet rather than the head. I should have it in the store next week once I have the costs nailed down and set a price.
[quoted image]
Nice work! Hope I never need it.
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