(Topic ID: 240503)

jjPirates of the Caribbean Troubleshooting/Tips/Issues jjPotC Tech


By vireland

1 year ago



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5 key posts have been marked in this topic

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Post #306 Tip on removing the black pearl Posted by rs812 (1 year ago)

Post #501 More tips on removing black pearl mini playfield Posted by LTG (1 year ago)

Post #1776 Broken trunk mount bracket picture Posted by Soulrider911 (1 year ago)

Post #2470 JJP kit information for doing 220v to 110v conversion. Posted by Vitty (1 year ago)

Post #2844 Auto-launch misfire adjustment. Posted by Yelobird (9 months ago)


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#115 1 year ago

Following!

#118 1 year ago
Quoted from zaphX:

Not taking it apart again. I pulled out the shooter wireform, bent the 2 rails in the shooter lane to remove irregularities between the two, and put it back in.

What tool did you use to bend the rails?

#158 1 year ago
Quoted from wesman:

Ooooh. So no ship removal, eh? (Though I've already taken it off twice.).
Have you had your plastic under the ship creak at all?

Have you used this type before? I'd imagine it's more flexible than the other?

Did you ever get that playfield into the lock bar receiver? How did you fix it?

#222 1 year ago
Quoted from wesman:

So...... Finally I think I've resolved my lockdown bar/coin door/playfield hook situation.
Thanks to LTG vireland Pinballomatic Bublehead Heni1977 and anyone else that offered advice, insight, and most of all patience.
Long story short, when I received the game three weeks ago tomorrow, the yellow handle on the lockdown bar, wasn't engaged. (As seen in the photo with the plastic on the lockdown bar).
I own one game, but didn't realize how much of an issue that was, as I was still able to push the coin door closed, while brushing the mech.
My issues at that point were largely the playfield hooks not resting, and the lockdown bar not sitting.
After looking at the lockdown bar itself, the one tab was crooked, so I bent that slightly and now that seated fine. Unfortunately, the playfield itself still wasn't.
Through advice, I adjusted the position of the receiver, to the left. Doing so allowed the hooks to rest in a way that didn't take hours of pushing, loom adjustment, etc.
After that I inspected the trim channels for debris, possibly blocking the glass from meeting entirely at the back. Other than the staple I'd removed prior, nothing existed.
So again based on advice, I shifted the receiver as far upwards as I could, possibly just 1/8-1/4" more than it had been seated prior. Doing so allowed me to see the sliding spring loaded bar itself in the mechanism, wasn't high enough to allow the tooth of the lockdown bar's tabs, to slot in towards the right when pressure is placed to properly seat the bar.
I did notice the filament inside the brass screw housing extends past and outside of those nuts. Which to me seems to also not allow the height of the spring bar to raise slightly further, allowing the teeth of the tabs to meet effortlessly.
So now with firm pressure, not at all with ease, when glass is inserted I can slide the yellow handle to the left, thus allowing the lockdown bar to fully be engaged.
Phew.....
The top photo is how it sits now.
The bottom is how it arrived.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

So when you unboxed the machine the lock bar yellow handle was like that? Or did it get like that after you removed the lock down bar/lifted the playfield for the first time?

#224 1 year ago
Quoted from wesman:

That was minutes into sliding the game out...
I didn't even rationalize how peculiar the placement of the yellow handle was at that point. Just my second pinball game, and bringing it in, I had it catch and lock down on my legs while taking it up my porch steps. So.....my head was all over the place.
Fortunately, my friend and I were taking many, many photos of the unboxing and subsequent steps.
(A photo my friend took.)
[quoted image]

That’s nuts! Out of all the issues this machine has, yours has been the one I’ve been following the most.

So pretty much the lock down bar wasn’t secured when you unboxed the game correct?

The part I don’t get is how (I assume) your playfield hooks were seated on the receiver holes when you unboxed the game and then all of the sudden they would not go in? Can you pls explain this part?

#234 1 year ago
Quoted from BC_Gambit:

I just installed the disc quieting kit; need to play some games to make a better determination, but I like it so far.
It took about as long as I thought, BUT i did ream out the holes of the metal disc support bracket to move my map mech slightly to the left; I was able to get it centered perfectly now, I just need to see if it now slowly moves over time (that would really surprise me, but hey, I guess it could happen).

Quoted from BC_Gambit:

I just installed the disc quieting kit; need to play some games to make a better determination, but I like it so far.
It took about as long as I thought, BUT i did ream out the holes of the metal disc support bracket to move my map mech slightly to the left; I was able to get it centered perfectly now, I just need to see if it now slowly moves over time (that would really surprise me, but hey, I guess it could happen).

How long did it take approx?

#241 1 year ago
Quoted from vireland:

Okay, so following up on the screw making a bulge in the bottom of the Black Pearl and tearing the sticker.
DO NOT do the fix I did with the flatter screw top to stop the pressure on the underside of the BP ramp that's tearing the sticker!
It's become clear the BP ramp is a terrible design. There is no support on the left side of the ramp to hold it up. The screw bump and edge of the partial sling cover IS the support. Nevermind that it's tearing the ramp sticker underneath. The upshot of the change I made is the ramp now sags about 3mm to the left, which has the effect of dragging on the ship and causing slow balls to get stuck on the gate (because there's not enough of an angle to direct it to the right and down).
So I guess tomorrow I will work on designing a 3D printed support for the left side of the ramp that screws onto the back of the sling cover to gently support the ramp in a much better way.

Perfect! Please keep us posted, Thanks for doing this!

1 week later
#430 1 year ago
Quoted from LTG:

Yes. In commercial use mine was sticking on the switch blade, and after a bit of hot glue smoothed over with my finger, worked fine ever since.
LTG : )

Why can’t JJP fix these issues though? Why does a customer have to hot glue parts to get a game playing like it should?

#439 1 year ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Personally I go with the corner petg washers on the slings. Never really have issues with breakage otherwise.

Did you fix your BP issue?

#441 1 year ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

The right spinner? Waiting on JJP to send parts.
The motion? Haven't looked at it yet.

Yeah the right spinner. Let us know, Thanks!

#593 1 year ago
Quoted from joseph5185:

I mean...when I replace the flipper rubber I can probably even tune it more, but it’s a win for now.

Now put your BP back, play 10 games and get ready to remove it again for the next issue

1 month later
#1337 1 year ago
Quoted from joseph5185:

Okay guys..
Update!
My plunger is 100%. Like I full plunged a good 30 times and those forks didn't move. Period. SO HAPPY!
And my action button came in so working on replacing that now as well.
Edit: The playfield wasn't completely seated... ='(.
Double Edit: On a plus note, it helped me realize that I have the height issue. I had the bottom screw as low as it would go and I can see where the plunger is grazing the top. So I'll work on that fix.
Triple Edit: IT'S FIXED! ... No, for real this time. I used the felt tape that you would align the bottom of the machine with x4 on each side. Idk if it's the most efficient solution, but at least the look matches. Time to move on!
=)

Quoted from joseph5185:

Okay guys..
Update!
My plunger is 100%. Like I full plunged a good 30 times and those forks didn't move. Period. SO HAPPY!
And my action button came in so working on replacing that now as well.
Edit: The playfield wasn't completely seated... ='(.
Double Edit: On a plus note, it helped me realize that I have the height issue. I had the bottom screw as low as it would go and I can see where the plunger is grazing the top. So I'll work on that fix.
Triple Edit: IT'S FIXED! ... No, for real this time. I used the felt tape that you would align the bottom of the machine with x4 on each side. Idk if it's the most efficient solution, but at least the look matches. Time to move on!
=)

Pics would be nice. How did you fix the plunger issue?

#1345 1 year ago
Quoted from CraigC:

Sigh, just got my game... So how do I fix a mal aligned display? I searched this thread and a few others for the pinsider with the info. Loosening the screws doesn't seem to get the job done.[quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from CraigC:

Sigh, just got my game... So how do I fix a mal aligned display? I searched this thread and a few others for the pinsider with the info. Loosening the screws doesn't seem to get the job done.[quoted image][quoted image]

Wow! That’s bad! Did u get it fixed?

1 week later
#1522 1 year ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Even if this isn't the issue with the BP, it's still an issue.
I don't think it's SW issue as I don't think the magnet is grabbing it, I think it's a mechanical issue. But I can't figure it out, maybe I'll play with the BP off and see if I can catch it.
Can't remove the bracket without removing the BP unless you get really creative with some pliers or something. The back lower screw only comes out if the ball guide is moved, which means you have to pull off the plastic and remove the screws that hold the guide in place. I *think* that means the BP has to come off, mine was off already. I can't see any real complaining about removing the BP.. took me like 2 minutes to get it off. Anyone who has an issue there should remove the castle playfield on WOZ.

Nice work Harry! Hopefully that solves the loop shot issue!

#1540 1 year ago
Quoted from Zora:

I can hardly close the lockdown bar. It is very tight. Is there a way to lock it more smoothly?

Did this happen right out of the box?

#1547 1 year ago
Quoted from Soulrider911:

Map hole tnut fix. Not sure if this is the case with everyone. But an le I just bought had some serious putting in the balls, I suspected the culprit was the protruding tnut in the map hole.
Sure enough after a test the ball was contacting it.
[quoted image]
Solution masking taped the immediate area
[quoted image]
Used a dremmel to grind it down
[quoted image]

Did you use something to catch the shaved metal that went inside the scoop? You don’t want that stuff all over the playfield

#1602 1 year ago
Quoted from Soulrider911:

I did yes look back a page I think I showed there, it’s really not that bad if you have a dremmel and grinding bits. Just takes patience also the inner Cliffy will not fit with that tnut sticking out... so if you plan on installing both the Sudafed mounted Cliffy and the inner you will most likely need to grind it.
Could also remove the tnut and grind it while not on the playfield

Do you have to remove a lot of stuff and/or components just to get to the T-nut? Sorry my game is still in the box

1 week later
#1737 1 year ago
Quoted from zaphX:

Maybe I just need to break the loctite on the forks and reposition them. I'll look at that.

Did you fix this?

#1739 1 year ago
Quoted from zaphX:

Not yet, I’ve been all about Wonka!

Nice! Please let us know

2 months later
#2077 1 year ago
Quoted from 3pinballs:

Good morning Lloyd, Just encountered this yesterday and today. My wife would get ball to BP and the VUK would try to shoot up to mini playfield but doesn't ....sounds like it's hitting something.
VUK is set to 18 set by Gary at Abel Electronics.
Also, the ball gets stuck on that wire diverter on right ramp when it exits ramp or not enough speed to come down. They need to figure out a fix as it just happened now and my wife moved over to GB.
Thanks for your help.

I have the exact same issue! With the added bonus of the ball getting lost when it’s released by the rear magnet. It’s supposed to drop into the subway that feeds the VUK but nothing happens for about a minute. Game goes into search mode like crazy!

After a while the ball is eventually placed in the VUK but it can’t shoot the ball up into the BP! It tries 2 times then the ball mysteriously ends up wedged on the underside of the BP! WTF????

I too have the same huge gap you have between the Ship and the ramp
12BA994B-CBAF-4CD7-B915-59C5C32D79AD (resized).jpeg3C818A11-F287-46A4-8292-AEF944EE91E3 (resized).jpeg3FCB0762-AD8D-402E-A921-CDD1474AD61C (resized).jpeg

#2080 1 year ago
Quoted from 3pinballs:

Did you ever find out what it needed to get fixed?
I haven't looked underneath yet, but my ball will try to shoot up through the VUK 2 times, then get shot out/ejected from another area....just can't remember where the ball came out after the failed attempts in VUK

Not yet. I pulled the ship the other day and will investigate this week. I’ll post my findings.....

#2083 1 year ago
Quoted from VolunteerPin:

Dang. How’d you ever even find that lol.

It took a good long while! It has happened like 5 times already. I pulled the ship out of the game and will start my investigation this week. To be continued....

#2086 1 year ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Which diagram? Assemblies start on C-7. There are diagrams for various components, if you're looking for coils or plastics or lighting, etc. on different pages/sections.

I thought you mentioned that the gate on the VUK was sticking?

Well, I used a pen and tried moving it when it was still behind the Ship and I felt some resistance but the angle was pretty awkward for me to be 100% sure. Now with stuff out of the game, I will test the magnet and see why the ball gets lost. Then I will figure out if the VUK gate is at fault or not.

#2089 1 year ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

I don't see how the magnet would be at fault for the ball ending up on top of the plastic under the BP. Th issue is the VUK doesn't launch the ball on to the BP and then it ends up getting stuck there, right?
Sure sounds like there is either a restriction on the VUK or the ball is hitting something and/or the VUK coil needs more power (which would seem odd compared to what most people convey). The magnet only stops the ball around the loop to drop it in to the hole which leads to the VUK. Once it is in there the magnet has nothing to do with it.

Agree. The problem is not the magnet, the ball gets lost when the magnet releases the ball. The ball is supposed to go into the subway that feeds the VUK. This is where the ball is getting lost. Not sure if the ball just hangs outside the subway for a while or if it’s getting stuck in the subway somewhere, somehow.

#2091 1 year ago
Quoted from Yelobird:

I believe this issue was covered several times in these threads but from memory you start with making sure your game is level left to right, Not pitched to steep 6.7 ish (balls don’t run uphill in VUK trough) and adjust or shim the clear plastic trough flap so the ball rolls towards the vuk. Fairly certain others documented this fix in detail just didn’t find it. Good luck

Really interested in the adjustment of the clear plastic subway. We’ll search for it. Thanks!

#2093 1 year ago
Quoted from Yelobird:

I know for mine there is a straight (about 1” wide) flap on the clear subway. That flap did not lay flat against the metal VUK rather it was raised a bit not letting the ball on occasion roll back. For me, I pulled it and using a hair dryer used a bit of heat to lightly bend it down. Reinstalled and never an issue again. Others I believe simply added washers or the front corners to taper it back mechanically. Hope this helps.

Yes it does. Thank you!

#2095 1 year ago
Quoted from koops:

Nice fix.
I spent an hour tonight working on making a support. I’m only a beginner in fusion 360 so I thought this would be a practical learning experience. It’s just a simple arm that sits over the hex post.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
It’s passive and doesn’t need screws or anything else to hold it.
First test and it fits great and actually holds the ramp at the best angle! It’s near invisible to see it through the ramp so that’s a plus too! Just needs some refinement on the end where it touches the black pearl. I’ll probably make it loop up near the opto.0
I’ll put it on thingiverse when it’s good enough.

F yeah brother! Nice job!

#2129 1 year ago

Where did you guys purchase your irons from?

#2133 1 year ago
Quoted from Yelobird:

From post 2116 above all info is in that thread if your interested. Repairing another pair of Wonkas and a POTC today. Almost as fun as playing them! NOT!
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/diy-playfield-post-repair-and-chip-proofing-how-to-all-brands

Awesome, Thanks Dave! Is there a risk of the clear pooling again after this fix? I was thinking that cutting the clear around the hole (on the inside part) and securing the area with glue might help the clear stay put for good.

#2138 1 year ago

So I fixed the BP VUK subway issue. Balls were getting lost in there. Used a hair dryer to slightly bend the subway’s extended part down some. I also put target protector foam and washers on the front part to lower it a bit. Balls roll freely towards the VUK now. I also trimmed the bracket on the loop

643C376B-3FB8-4DD5-8189-9FD16E9454FA (resized).jpegB160542C-E1EB-4935-BE64-4267A96D7091 (resized).jpeg
#2141 1 year ago

Test report is saying Chapter select # 2 switch is out. There are no broken wires and there is good contact inside.

This report was with the ship out of the game. Is it possible this switch is out because the ship is not connected to the game? If not, any idea why this is happening?

I also noticed Map 5 is very close to the opto housing. I’m sure the housing gets smacked every time the ball is bouncing around in there. Should I be concerned about this? Thanks!

10D28FF7-58E7-4DE6-BBC9-0C53DB1B6BAE (resized).jpeg97A88CA2-D2B2-47E5-AC37-E7DF9A6F0780 (resized).jpeg3B0D7B33-3A3E-42C7-91E0-E3BA6BDB9214 (resized).jpeg
#2144 1 year ago
Quoted from LTG:

Hasn't been hit in 10 games or 30 balls.
Tests - Switches Matrixed, push with finger and see what it does.
LTG : )

I did use my finger. I removed the plastic above them switches too. I doesn’t register with the finger or ball. The other switches next to it work perfectly btw

#2145 1 year ago
Quoted from koops:

shouldn't that be physically impossible to hit seeing it has a sling post with rubber in front of it?
hmm, maybe if the target was to lean to the right perhaps. Is that what is happening in your pic?
Small bit of hot glue if its loose and realign the switch more left so it doesn't touch.

Maybe. I removed the post to inspect for pooling. I’ll see howe it looks once I put the post back. I still think it will hit the opto every time the ball hits it. We’ll see. I just wanted to make sure that was normal

#2147 1 year ago
Quoted from LTG:

Pull it out, see if it's stuck closed.
If not, check for broken wire below the black pearl. Then a break from target to I/O board.
LTG : )

Great start. I’ll do that. Can you tell me which is the I/O board? Sorry I don’t have the manual yet.

I did check for broken wires on the switch itself and it all looks good. Man, I was hoping not having to take it out. That area down there is very crowded.

#2148 1 year ago

Sorry, I forgot to point out that before removing the ship, the switch was working fine.

#2150 1 year ago
Quoted from LTG:

Long rectangular one in the head. With all the fuses and transistors.

You can download it from jerseyjackpinball.com - Support - Downloads - Pirates.

Broken wire between targets most likely then.
LTG : )

I’ll start my investigation later tonight. Thanks Lloyd!

#2151 1 year ago
Quoted from LTG:

Long rectangular one in the head. With all the fuses and transistors.

You can download it from jerseyjackpinball.com - Support - Downloads - Pirates.

Broken wire between targets most likely then.
LTG : )

So going back to my pictures, I realized the switch was out back on the 13th, before I even took the ship out. The switch could’ve been out from the factory for all I know. I only played a handful of games before I removed the ship. Any ideas?

2B82967F-B0C8-48CA-B933-C81A1739706F (resized).jpegE109B8FC-6735-4744-AEAF-8763025A49FA (resized).jpeg
#2153 1 year ago
Quoted from vireland:

Look underneath for a physical break in the wire chain. Also, those are easy to take off from the underside. Just two screws. Unscrew it, pull it down and inspect. Then test it in switch test mode while not screwed to the playfield (if you don't see an obvious problem) and work from there.

Will check later tonight and report back. Thanks brother!

#2154 1 year ago

Alright, so I did some investigation and it looks like the diode might be reversed on chapter select switch # 2. All of them have the band on the side closest to the playfield while this one has it on the opposite side. Since (it looks like) they are daisy chained, Do you guys think that’s what is causing it to be stuck open and not register at all in switch test?

I want to be 100% sure before I pull it out. It’s crowded down there
25DEA8D1-F718-4C70-B8D4-D4B4E087F61C (resized).jpeg

#2156 1 year ago
Quoted from LTG:

Yes. Clearly facing the wrong direction. And why your switch no worky.
LTG : )

I guess they missed it in the testing stage. Well, I better get my soldering iron going. Thanks Lloyd!

#2158 1 year ago
Quoted from EaglePin:

Had another occurrence of wires breaking under the Black Pearl mini playfield. I’ve got to give a big thank you to Kurt hemispheres Amusements for going above and beyond again to help me. Met me at his shop way outside normal business hours to solder them for me and then took a lot of extra time to come up with an idea to help bulletproof it to lessen the chance of it happening so often. He took an old standoff post from a parts playfield, attached it to the underside, and zipped the horizontal part of the wiring harness to it to keep those wires from moving & breaking again. Idea being if he can stabilize those wires to hold them still while the section of harness dropping through the playfield can still move up and down with the rocking it should reduce the chance for the wires to break from the solders. Now when you tug on that lower section the wires attached to the switches don’t move at all, so the Pearl will rock with the connections staying secure. He also ran the wires through a large rubber sleeve to have the sleeve remain at the hole in the playfield to for smooth travel back and forth with the rocking. Very nice to have Kurt’s experience on my side! He and Mark at Hemispheres have been invaluable to this rookie owner. Here are a couple pictures.[quoted image][quoted image]

Nice! Did he drill holes on the bottom to install this post?

#2160 1 year ago
Quoted from EaglePin:

The base of the standoff post takes a single screw, so he used a very short hex head screw through that spot to attach it. Here’s a picture.[quoted image]

Perfect! Thank you!

#2162 1 year ago
Quoted from Hemispheres:

Hey Chris, Thanks for the kuddos! Much appreciated. I think this will be the long term solution for you on that issue. I was really pleased with it and it should have been done this way right from JJP! Now on to your JP...lol Call me when you have time. Spend some time on the factory floor with the Stern guys yesterday and got a lot of info on what and how that entire assy should work...We'll get her nailed down...
Thanks again for your business, Much appreciated Chris!

You did great on that fix! I'll be doing the same thing to mine if you don't mind I'll look for one at Pinball life or Marco

1 week later
#2219 1 year ago
Quoted from luckymoey:

This is the problem. I took a slo-mo vid and it's occasionally hitting the post rubber, and the wire form is slightly tilted up in the playfield groove. In the process of taking the wireform off to see if I need to slightly manipulate. Thanks for all the help!

Still wondering why the ball doesn’t hit the post rubber during test mode?

#2222 1 year ago
Quoted from luckymoey:

The pinball gods must be messing with me.
Actually, my best guess is that the balls are fed to the shooter lane so rapidly during multi-ball that they don't always have time to settle which throws off the trajectory.

A slow-mo video During test mode would help solve this mystery

#2223 1 year ago

Any good or bad reviews on the Titan silicone washers?

#2227 1 year ago
Quoted from Galooch:

I just put them on so we'll see the long term effects, but I agree with luckymoey in that they compress very nicely with fear of digging into the playfield and they are invisible. I put them on all the star posts and thinner posts that I could get to while I had the BP off recently. I also put them on all the posts under the BP ramp which is where I have started to see the worst pooling.

Did you install them on these posts under the chest? If so, how difficult was it to remove it? Btw, Did you mean to say “without fear of digging into the playfield”?
6EE11557-4A73-4D3A-9A09-C9276DC7B526 (resized).jpeg

1 month later
#2293 1 year ago
Quoted from bigdaddy07:

That fixed it! You guys are awesome. Thanks for helping me.

So you just turned the machine on and touched those 2 pins with a single wire? Just jump starting a car or something?

Is the machine now working like nothing ever happened?

Did you leave the wire in there?

#2295 1 year ago
Quoted from bigdaddy07:

IMmy sister pretty much cut her kids loose when she arrived. They are wild and instantly commenced molesting everything they could get their hands on.

My sister-in-law suddenly popped into my head HAHAHAHAHAHA

1 week later
#2333 1 year ago
Quoted from vireland:

So, a few more iterations to widen the button spacing to prevent accidental presses of the wrong button and make the bracket more stable.[quoted image]

I couldn’t find it in your store.

#2338 1 year ago
Quoted from vireland:

Not in the pinmonk store yet, I should have it up this weekend or early next week. I just got this iteration, which I believe is final, completed today. I just have to work out the wire management and it's ready to sell.
Thanks for the interest!

Thank you for doing this for us!

#2341 1 year ago
Quoted from vireland:

Thanks for that, but don't saint me just yet. I initially did this for me, and it turned out a little too nice, which is when I drifted from thoughts only about me to thoughts about others that might like it, too. The initial impetus was completely selfish.

Thank you for your honesty!

#2342 1 year ago
Quoted from vireland:

Thanks for that, but don't saint me just yet. I initially did this for me, and it turned out a little too nice, which is when I drifted from thoughts only about me to thoughts about others that might like it, too. The initial impetus was completely selfish.

May I ask why this is happening to JJP games? What’s causing this issue?

1 week later
#2399 1 year ago

Anybody know the size of the threaded posts that have a threaded part up top? They are all over the playfield. Thanks!

#2401 1 year ago
Quoted from LTG:

Page C-135 in the manual.
You can download it from jerseyjackpinball.com - Support - Downloads - Pirates.
LTG : )

Thank you!

2 weeks later
#2420 1 year ago

Has anybody experienced pooling/chipping under the posts on the BP mini playfield? Has anybody filed a claim to get a replacement?

3 weeks later
#2477 12 months ago
Quoted from vireland:

Problem: Chest won't release balls locked in it.
Solution: Two possibilities (assuming the coil is working):
1. The metal bracket that the coil pulls back to open the gate has bent too far forward, away from the coil that magnetizes to pull it open. So carefully bend the metal in front of the small coil behind the chest so it is closer to the small coil and the coil can "grab" it.
2. There's also a setting on the system menu that lets you change the amount of time the coil holds to let the balls out. Increase the time if the gate is opening, but just not long enough to let the ball out.

You mean bend the piece that has a spring on it? Is it easy to bend?

#2479 12 months ago
Quoted from vireland:

It's very similar to the ball lock on WoZ when it stops working. You bend the backing part of the bracket a little foreward, which lets the angled piece that's gotten too far away move closer to the coil post (since that piece is angled downward from the piece you're bending). Doesn't take much.
[quoted image]

Great info! Thanks!

#2484 12 months ago
Quoted from KingPinGames:

You usually see this in hanes that have exposed magnet cores, not as common with under the playfield ones. I could be wrong but I cant recall any exposed cores.
Check your chest level from left to right (not your game). There should be a slight tilt to the left. Also check to see if your release door is coming up enough to clear the balls quickly.

I believe there is an exposed magnet core on the loop right below the BP

35F8D9B0-185E-430D-8BE5-833125915B7B (resized).png
1 week later
#2515 11 months ago

Play testing my game after almost putting it back together. Every time I hit the flippers I get 3 points scored and pirates going Arrhhh. Any idea what could be the issue here?

#2517 11 months ago
Quoted from zaphX:

There’s a switch somewhere falsing - go into switch test and bang around a bit to see which one it is, then adjust it.

I put it in test mode banged on the playfield, no luck. Activated pretty much all the switches and coils, all good. Head scratcher for sure....

#2518 11 months ago

Problem fixed! When I put titan rubbers in, I Accidentally bent the leaf switch behind the bumper area. All good now! Thanks!

#2522 11 months ago
Quoted from KingPinGames:

While in the switch test, use the palm of your hand to tap on the playfield in different spots. My guess is you have a blade switch (inside the chapter select are) that is too close and the vibration from the flipper is causing the issue. Also check the ones closer to the flippers (pop bumpers).

Your guess was correct. Easy fix

#2531 11 months ago
Quoted from zaphX:

It took 3-4 weeks to run it down, trying lots of other things before discovering the power supply. Super frustrating because it was intermittent and had a habit of ruining really great games.

Great find! I wonder what LTG thinks of this power supply issue?

1 month later
#2847 9 months ago
Quoted from gumnut01:

eaglepin big thanks for fixing my I lane drains from the depths. Putting a bit of packing between the bumper stop and the plunger fixed it.
zaphx I saw you we’re having problems with this a while ago. This has fixed it for me.[quoted image]

Can you elaborate on what kind of “packing” you used and how much? Perhaps a couple pics from the side?

What is the theory behind this fix? Thanks!

#2849 9 months ago
Quoted from gumnut01:

I used window packers. I think I used 3 bits. Each was 1.5mm. Then wrapped them up in electrical tape around the rubber stop.
As eaglepin so excellently discovered reducing the throw of the plunger means less spin can occur from strong plunges.
If you pack too much then the ball wont fit next to the plunger in the depths. You’ll know because it won’t detect the ball. If you do too little then the problem isn’t fixed.
Here are the window packers. I use these heaps. Also you may need to adjust your VUK power. Mine is up by 2 to 16. You might have to be set differently.
It does mean the lockout is slightly slower but at least it doesn’t hit that infernal gate and then drain.
Thanks again eaglepin !![quoted image]

Thank you!

#2851 9 months ago
Quoted from Yelobird:

I must have been the only one that didn’t know what a window packer is? lol

#2871 9 months ago
Quoted from JamCat:

Yes, it was the power supply. My dad had one he let me borrow to test and it fired right up. I told JJP so hopefully they will still send me one as it is still under warranty. Mine did reboot during game play two weeks ago as well. It was probably ready to go then.

Is it difficult to swap power supplies?

#2874 9 months ago
Quoted from zaphX:

Yeah it’s not bad at all. The most difficult part for me was trying to loom up the wiring on the new supply (which was flat ribbon cables) to make it look as nice as the original.

Is this a common problem with POTC? Are all defective?

#2876 9 months ago
Quoted from zaphX:

Well, it’s impossible to tell.
In the case of my machine it was a Corsair supply and they’ve had some problems in the PC world. In fact it was a helpful PC repair video from a guy called “HealMyTech” that pointed me in the direction of the fix.

Thank you for the helpful info

#2885 9 months ago

What’s the absolute best fix for the action button getting stuck? Sorry, I just started playing this game

#2888 9 months ago
Quoted from LTG:

Stern lockdown bar button from Pinball Life.
What I did on mine was put a blob of hot glue on the end of the button. That has worked fine in commercial use since I got the game.
LTG : )

Did you put the hot glue after the adding the stern button or did you just do the hot glue? What causes it to get stuck though?

#2889 9 months ago
Quoted from Axl:

searching the forum for the stern button, or the action button fix. it has been posted several times. i guess the Stern button is the absolute easiest, albeit longest wait.
good luck!

Thanks!

#2890 9 months ago

This one?

30A4D717-60A9-434A-9270-47549AB505DF (resized).png
#2892 9 months ago
Quoted from LTG:

Just the hot glue.

On my game, the end would stick on the side of the blade on the switch it pushes. A dab of hot glue made it wider and end of problem. The blade of that switch has some back and forth play.
LTG : )

Got it! Ty!!!

2 weeks later
#2904 9 months ago
Quoted from EaglePin:

Today after starting OST wizard mode with 4 consecutive loop shots and the machine telling me I still had 19 left to hit, I finally went after the inner loop entry optos and did the tape fix. Huge difference. All loops are registering now. I had the game on in switch test while I did it so I could push the limit on how much I could cover up each opto. Here’s a pic of the transmitter opto after applying tape. I did the same to the receiver.[quoted image]

Does the BP have to be removed to do this fix?

#2912 8 months ago
Quoted from Energyspike:

Thanks for mentioning this, I was noticing the same issue. On the back of the play-field there is a U shaped bracket held by 2 screws, I removed and taped both opto's half way as you described and is working much better...

So there’s no need to remove the BP to do this fix?

#2917 8 months ago
Quoted from Maurice:

Forgot about the inner loop opto made. Loops still don’t register 100%. Here we go again.

Inner loop made?

#2920 8 months ago
Quoted from EaglePin:

There are two sets of optos for the inner loop shot. One set is for the switch called inner loop enter and another set is for the switch called inner loop made.

So what kind of tape is used for this? Electrical tape? Do you cover the bottom half of the opto? Why does covering half of the opto help it ‘see’ the ball better?

#2931 8 months ago

Does the BP always sway at the same speed or does the speed change depending on what’s going on in the game?

#2953 8 months ago
Quoted from gumnut01:

The washer on the minipost next to tortuga seems to be destroying my balls. Think I need to replace with a rubber one or dremmel it. [quoted image]

Dremmel it

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