Does anyone know if it's possible to install the starmap on an SE? Or is the SE missing the connectors and other essential hardware for it? I've been trying to get an LE or CE and just can't get my hands on one to save my life. As soon as one is listed it's sold in minutes. I've got all of the instant alerts setup, but still miss out every time. I was thinking of buying an SE and trying to upgrade it as an alternative. What else is missing off the SE besides startmap, powder coat topper, shaker and invisiglass?

Yeah, it sounds like there is more missing than I thought. I really would need the headphone jack too. I'll just have to be patient and keep trying. Eventually I'll get one.

Mine works fine on 20.

My cannon doesn’t line up with the dauntless at all. It always hits the back side and will never go in. Which is misaligned?the dauntless or the cannon? Which is easier to adjust?

Got it and fixing it now. Thanks!

I’m having major issues with the chest forks not retracting more than half way. I can’t find any other posts on it. Surely others are having this issue? The magnet does release the tabs but it seems to have a lot of friction holding the assembly at least half way up. It screeches when I push it back down manually. Is that assembly supposed to magnetize back down into the coil sleeve? Or is the weight of the assembly and gravity relied on to put it back down? If it’s supposed to magnetize back down then that is not working. There is some left to right play within the sleeve but I can’t see any adjustment that would make a difference. I might have to get JJP to help with this one. Just thought I’d see if anyone else had the issue.

I managed to make it a little better at least but it’s not 100%. Apparently there is a single loop tab in the center of the pressure plate that governs how far out it can go. It had gotten bent out over time allowing the plate to put too much pressure on the fork assembly. So when the tabs were released the plate was still wedging the whole assembly so it couldn’t slide on the track easily. It still stays up a little, but the next shot pushes it down now so at least it’s functional. I’ll have to tinker more later to get it working perfectly.

I really would like to see a mod that converts the spinning disc assembly into a direct drive, rather than that noisy gear that is prone to break. I have the silencer kit on mine, but it still isn’t that quiet and the gear already broke once. Why didn’t they just mount a vertical motor with the disc on top in the first place? No gear, no noise, less to break.

I still want someone to develop a direct drive spinning disc assembly, without the stupid noisy gear setup. Even with the silencer kit, it’s loud and I keep having to adjust the gear because the set screws back out.

HAAAALP. My POTC was just sitting idle and I heard the speakers blip and it powered off by itself. Just blips for half a second and stays dark when power cycling it. Any ideas where to start?

Board in the back box has all red lights on by several of the fuses. Maybe one in the circuit is blown. I’ll have to do some research.

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They all lit up after I power cycled again without disconnecting the switch. I’m tracing power now

Thanks for the suggestions. I can’t even jump cpu the board. I think the power supply is shot in the PC. power is going to the supply but the green wire is not getting power to the board. It’s still under warranty, so I’ll let JJP send me a new one if they agree with my diagnosis.

Yes, it was the power supply. My dad had one he let me borrow to test and it fired right up. I told JJP so hopefully they will still send me one as it is still under warranty. Mine did reboot during game play two weeks ago as well. It was probably ready to go then.

It doesn't seem too bad. I haven't installed the new one yet. I just bypassed the old one to test. Looks like i'll need a socket set to the get small bolts out of the old power supply on the side of the box. Other than that it's just a few connectors. No worse than replacing one in a PC.

Not only that, but that post keeps coming unscrewed on mine and affecting kick outs. I don’t have a tool that can really get in there to screw it in tight enough either. It’s like the wire forms and pop bumpers were placed just for the purpose of making that post harder to tighten. Sockets aren’t deep enough and the handle of pliers hits the things around it. So frustrating.

Just thought I would throw this fix out there in case anyone else has the same issue. I’ve been fighting the issue of my chest forks not lowering all the way and causing rejected shots at the Pass-Through and also the forks sometimes not locking in the upright position if I light the lock during multiball. I tried all sorts of advice I got on here such as adjusting the rollers, pressure plate, hooks, using lithium grease etc. They helped a bit but still didn’t fix it completely.

I finally took the entire assembly off (with some help from the cat) and sat at the table with it. I took it apart and found that the roll pin had partially come out of the plunger shaft and was catching on the coil sleeve! As soon as I hammered that back in and undid all of the other Jerry rigging I had done over the last few months, it works even better than new. Hopefully no one else will have to struggle as long as I did with this one.

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Is there any kind of adjustment that can be made to the chapter select magnet? when the ball sits to the left of the post I get a SDTM about 75% of the time. The only way to avoid it some of the time is to shake the machine right as it is about to release, but even that doesn’t always stop it. I end up with a slap save into the 3x target and still drain. It didn’t used to do that. Something has changed.

Actually it started happing more after I changed the rubber on the left side, hmmmm. I forgot I changed it. I put a titan rubber on it because the factory one was wearing through but it wasn’t screwing me over. I might have to try a different rubber again.

I think your idea of thickening the post might be best. I’ll give that a shot soon.