(Topic ID: 240503)

jjPirates of the Caribbean Troubleshooting/Tips/Issues jjPotC Tech

By vireland

8 months ago

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Post #306 Tip on removing the black pearl Posted by rs812 (7 months ago)

Post #501 More tips on removing black pearl mini playfield Posted by LTG (7 months ago)

Post #1776 Broken trunk mount bracket picture Posted by Soulrider911 (5 months ago)

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#264 7 months ago

I noticed something yesterday. Ball was sitting in the launcher and everytime I flipped a flipper I got like 30 points or something. I have to assume this is a switch that is not adjusted correctly, so I'll look at that first. Not sure if this is anything known.

#274 7 months ago

I've had way more flying balls in this game than many other games I've played. Many hop up and land in the right side wire ramp. Had many fly over the slingshots, crazy.

First pic, ball has gotten stuck here twice. When you shoot the left orbit too hard and it makes the turn it can fling over here.

Second pic, rubber is almost broken. Seems to get a lot of wear there. Have all new titan rings on the way.

I set the right flipper back to original power (it was turned up a bit) and that has kept the ball from flying out of the maelstrom for the most part but when the ball has some good momentum before it is hit with the flipper it can still pop out. Seems like there needs to be something to keep it in.

Not sure if it is just me or if it is the cliffy but the mystery hole is hard as hell to get in to.

0421191250 (resized).jpg0421191301 (resized).jpg
#276 7 months ago
Quoted from f3honda4me:

Turn flippers and slings down if you’re getting so many air balls.

K, thanks.

Oh... anyone:

I just remembered, my rotating pirate on top of the pop bumper doesn't work. Tested it in the test menu and the other rotating pop topper works, just not the pirate one. I hear nothing when I activate it. Is it as simple as a bad motor or are there other things to test? I'll test for voltage at the motor, I suppose. Haven't popped it up to look yet.

#285 7 months ago
Quoted from vireland:

Heh, the MAP hole is a mystery, too, until the spin. I was confusified.
On the Tortuga hole, wiggle the deflector and make sure that it's screwed on tight. It was loose out of the box on the one we got here, which made it hard to hit until I tightened it.

Thanks. I didn't install the cliffy, previous owner did. Another le played without protector didn't seem as hard. I'll investigate if it's laying flat. Maybe flipper is too strong.

#292 7 months ago
Quoted from vireland:

PROBLEM: It bugs you that the barrels both turn the same direction.
SOLUTION: Reverse the connectors on the plug under the playfield for the upper barrel so it turns the opposite direction from the lower spinning barrel bumper.
Here's the connector:
[quoted image]
Connector taken out of the female housing:
[quoted image]
Use pin extractor (tool is available on Amazon amazon.com link » and at tool stores) to remove the pins and swap their position:
[quoted image]
Put the connectors back together and enjoy!
[quoted image]

Nice one!!

#313 7 months ago

Here is what a routed game looks like with the original sling posts (first 3 shots). It looks like someone already got the washer idea (doubt this is factory as the others don't have it) in pic 4. Also, looks like JJP designed their lane divider on the right side with a similar "washer" along the bottom design. I'm sure that's just part of the part characteristics (needs something to keep it up on the playfield for the nuts to pull against) but interesting.

Waiting on star posts, probably will do the clear lexan washers for now unless I can find something better.

0423191508 (resized).jpg0423191509 (resized).jpg0423191509a (resized).jpg0423191509b (resized).jpg
#314 7 months ago

Does anyone else have this audio issue? It's mostly identifiable when it starts up. My WOZ makes a loud "pop" kind of sound but nothing like this. I feel like it's indicative of other game audio issues but I haven't paid close enough attention. Ignore the startup delay, I'm pretty sure the Ubuntu startup screen showed up because I interrupted the previous boot.


#318 7 months ago
Quoted from rs812:

As to the post issue, instead of washers that change the height, why not use a hollow punch set to punch out the correct size dots or circles out of Mylar.

I really can't see how mylar is going to protect anything. I guess maybe it can prevent a chip from starting but unless you're really easy on how much tension you put on those posts they will dig in to the playfield, probably pop the mylar up and won't really have any protection from the tension from the screws. Clear lexan PETG washers are pretty thick, which seems an issue. Might just have to go solid metal washers that are just a bit larger than the star posts.

#328 7 months ago
Quoted from vireland:

Actual mylar (not hobby store cling) will protect the playfield fine and likely do less potential damage than a washer or post because the thickness of the mylar will absorb the torque and pressure of the post. All the washers are doing is spreading the torque over a wider surface area and changing the height of the sling rubber. These fragile playfield finishes are a drag. The better they look, the more fragile they are. Bring back diamondplate and just give everyone a respirator.

Ok... I'll trust those who sound like they have more experience than me. I have Marco mylar (and mylar direct from JJP for my WOZ) that I can try out.

#347 7 months ago
Quoted from vireland:

PROBLEM: Sling posts (and others) are digging into the clear on the playfield (sometimes chipping it).
SOLUTION: Remove post, install thin washer or 1.125" mylar. Reinstall post, gently tighten, do not torque.
Remove sling nuts using 11/32 socket.
[quoted image]
Remove post with 5/16" deep socket. Breathe deeply and often when you see the deep marks in the clear already where the post was. It will all be okay.
[quoted image]
Wipe area with 90% rubbing alcohol on microfiber cloth to clean well. Make sure area is dry before proceeding.
Install mylar disc or THIN clear or steel washer. Reinstall post, tightening GENTLY. Reinstall sling plastic and nut.
Here's 1.25" mylar disc (too large, I've dialed mine back to 1.125") installed with off-angle light - almost invisible
[quoted image]
Here's the same disc lit:
[quoted image]

Nice work! Man those gouges are horrible.

#361 7 months ago
Quoted from wesman:

How many games were on it?
Has everything else been pretty optimal/dialed in? I know I've been reading your posts, but man after awhile everyone's issues start to blend. Though...we all have common ones, that's for sure.

Not sure on games, it got reset with software updates. Everything works great and is dialed in. Spinning pirate doesn't work. Rubbers are getting replaced. That's about it.

#370 7 months ago

Welp, switch #48 decided to die to today. Luckily I had a few, easy swap and it's back to good. Seems pretty short lifespan for a switch.

In other news, trying to figure out what is wrong with the spinny pirate. I pulled the figure off but can't quite figure out how to get to the motor. The motor is held in to the bracket with 2 screws and the bracket into the pop bumper assembly with 2 screws but neither sets of screws are accessible. There are two holes in the mounting plate but they don't line up with either set of screws. I assume it's this motor that is bad but once I get access I'll test power to it. Also I noticed the motor mounting to the bracket was VERY loose. Might want to check these in your games, not sure they are supposed to be loose.


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#371 7 months ago
Quoted from fossmin:

When I go into the switch test the matrix shows the Black Pearl Motor Inner Opto 70 is closed.

Here is where it is located. I'll go look at mine and see if I can see what that is. I think it's on the black pearl playfield, one of the optos for the loop behind the spinners.

POTC_Manual_2_0_November_2018_pdf__Security___Read-Only___page_200_of_359_ (resized).jpg

#373 7 months ago
Quoted from joseph5185:

Pardon me for asking, but how exactly are you going to test the power?

I assume I am going to put it in to test mode and hook up a DMM to the leads and see if any power is hitting it. I thought it was in the coil tests, but I don't recall, however I know it's there as I tested the other one. Not sure what power it should be getting, but I'm assuming as long as there is some sort of AC or DC voltage there then it is likely the motor. Looks like a small DC motor from hobbying stuff so probably can easily test it with a 9v battery.

#376 7 months ago
Quoted from vireland:

It's in the post #1 index for the instructions on how to adjust the Tortuga/mystery hole.

Ah geeze, nice! Thanks

#377 7 months ago
Quoted from fossmin:

When I go into the switch test the matrix shows the Black Pearl Motor Inner Opto 70 is closed.

AH I see now.. looks like it's the opto to track the black pearl motor movement. Seems like it is under the black pearl. Possibly this is ok if the ship is all the way to one side? Not sure how that works, someone will surely chime in.

#381 7 months ago

Figure out the pirate not spinning... picture speaks for itself. Wire was completely detached.

Also, the barrel was making noise and I took it off and noticed the set screw for that was loose (although it looked like someone tried to put some locktite on it, not sure if that didn't work or if it was just working it's way out over time). The motor mount was not loose on the barrel but was on the pirate. So, some more things to check if you are poking around the playfield.

Had to adjust the right switch on the starfield area (behind the rubber) as it was constantly closed. I think that might have been what was doing the 30 pt scoring when I hit the flipper, haven't checked that out yet.

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#382 7 months ago

BAH! Just noticed that the right spinner on the BP isn't registering and is always closed (is that green on the switch test?). I'll dig around that one to see if any wires are loose. Any existing tips on the optos for the spinners?

#384 7 months ago
Quoted from zaphX:

You're blazing a new trail on that one I'm afraid. Great troubleshooting on the broken wire with Tortuga Tom!

Heh... I'm just about error free!

#388 7 months ago
Quoted from Yelobird:

Unless I read your posts wrong did you buy this second hand? Did the seller mention any of these issues as they are rather uncommon. Glad to see you are figuring it out. The spinner on the BP is a typical setup with an arm closing a switch contact. More then likely just out of adjustment. Sadly I suspect you will have to dry dock (pull) the BP to access the switch.

Yeah, it was on route for a bit. I knew the pirate didn't spin and I knew about the playfield wear. I checked out the switches when I went to look at it and none were red in the matrix, but I wasn't sure which ones should be open/closed. So, it's just the two switches so far and I think 48 just happened as it only reported recently.

I need to take out the BP anyhow to install the cliffys and replace the rubbers. I feel like my experience removing the WOZ castle playfield 30 or 40 times has put me in good shape to remove the BP.

#392 7 months ago

Well, this is interesting. Firstly, switch 68 (BP right spinner opto) is broken. Literally just broken in half. The white wire from the back of it is also detached. What I also found interesting is that when I removed the ship "header" the two brackets that support the spinners weren't even screwed down all the way. They are just dangling there. I am going to order two optos... is there any warranty on these kinds of parts? I'll email Shannan and see, either way I need to order them. Can't really see the ball causing this, but I also can't figure out any other reason this would happen.

Bah, not just plain switches so I can't just pull from my stock of parts and I'm guessing this is going to be a few dollar part with shipping that exceeds its cost. Maybe they'll do a good will type replacement.


#394 7 months ago

Is this how much your ship moves (max travel, left to right)?


#396 7 months ago
Quoted from LTG:

That looks about right. Less in the beginning, more as you get deeper into the game.
LTG : )

Thanks.. wasn't sure if it should be going right of center (looking at it).

#398 7 months ago
Quoted from rs812:

Run it in test mode and see how far it goes. Look at the slot on the left side of the ship through the backboard. You can adjust the movement within the travel limits of the slot. If the rod is not hitting the top of the slot, you can adjust it to tip further to the Right

Thanks, I'll check it out. With all my fiddling I hadn't looked at how that works and now the game is all together again and it needs some play time!

#421 7 months ago

Can someone link to the replacement Stern button?

Edit - this one work? https://www.pinballlife.com/cabinet-flipper-button-transparent-1-18-shaft.html

Or is it 1-3/8?

Double Edit - Looks like this is the recommended one: https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/515-7791-00

#438 7 months ago

Personally I go with the corner petg washers on the slings. Never really have issues with breakage otherwise.

#440 7 months ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

Did you fix your BP issue?

The right spinner? Waiting on JJP to send parts.

The motion? Haven't looked at it yet.

#442 7 months ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

Yeah the right spinner. Let us know, Thanks!

For sure... But going out of town on Tues so likely next week.

#444 7 months ago
Quoted from joseph5185:

I have the PETG washers. 3/4” right? I thought they are “too thick” or cause to much pressure or raises the height of the slings

I'm talking about putting the PETG washers under the plastic, above the posts. This strengthens the corners of the plastics and keep them from breaking. You can do this on almost any plastic that has the room. If there are parts of any game that get airballs and hit plastics this is a good way to keep them from breaking. You can use regular washers too.

#446 7 months ago
Quoted from joseph5185:

I thought it went under the posts so touching the playfield?

Two different scenarios. My comment above, about protecting the plastics, is a common thing on many games. Just to protect the plastic itself, nothing to do with the playfield. Washer goes under the plastic directly, not the posts, not touching the playfield. So, from the top would be nut, plastic, washer, post, playfield.

The specific issue with this game (and probably a few others with playfield softness) is that the narrow posts are digging in to the playfield and causing dimples, indents and in some cases cracks and chipping of the playfield (I have this). The suggestion was to replace the narrow posts with the more common, wider posts (spread out the load a bit more, cover the dimple, cover any cracks/chips) and to put something between the bottom of the post and the playfield to cushion the playfield from the star post. So in this case it would go nut, plastic, PETG (optional), post (larger star post), mylar (or PETG or metal washer), playfield.

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#450 7 months ago
Quoted from Yelobird:

Anything and everything fastened to a clearcoated wood playfield will leave an indentation. Kind of like a steel ball will leave dimples everywhere. Unavailable no matter what you try. It’s pinball

The problem seems to be on this game is the dimples are leading to cracks and chips. Star post could prevent that... But maybe just preventative mylar could do it before it starts.

#453 7 months ago
Quoted from Yelobird:

Personally I think all of this is overkill as long as the screws aren’t overtightened you should be fine.

That's the question for sure... was this simply the issue from the factory?

I'd love to find a clear, thin washer that would fit a star post exactly. I'll see how the white nylon ones I got from Marco fit, if not I'll check out the amazon options. Seems like someone with a "good" condition playfield would at least benefit from a small washer under the narrow posts (as it seems the factory started doing at some point).

I'll update my image to add a note about the start post necessity.

#454 7 months ago
Quoted from joseph5185:

Was that the word you meant here. I don’t understand in this context.
Well.. if the star post will cause an indention all the same as anything else then I don’t know that I care.
All I WILL “care” about is how it looks ... and plays.

Probably meant "impossible" or something like that. Playfields will dimple, and indent.. just the nature of the forces of items screwed into the playfield and heavy balls hitting over and over.

#459 7 months ago
Quoted from joseph5185:

The “million dollar” question is, are the PETG washers “okay” or does the thickness of them create potential new issues with how the game plays and, more importantly, how the sling rubber behaves/reacts.

Maybe... probably... hard to say. Probably would only know after some decent gameplay. Raising them will surely change the geometry where the rubber hits the ball. Will that make a substantial difference? Will it affect gameplay? Will it hurt the playfield more? Who knows? Maybe the posts could be sanded down a bit on the bottom to take off enough material to compensate. I would just play it safer and find a better washer. Once I see what Marco sends me I can either recommend one from there or I'll get one from Amazon and post about it. Others think mylar is a good solution, so maybe that is a better option.

#469 7 months ago
Quoted from joseph5185:

I don’t think Mylar is the better option only considering many other pins do in fact have these washers and what yelobird said made sense.
Do you have the star posts installed or will install them when you try the washers?
I think we can let this topic rest for now and I’ll personally look forward to hearing your result. Feel free to PM me even.

My plan is to install... I don't have them all yet (I ordered some different colors from different vendors) and I don't have washers yet. I'm going out of town so it will be a while and I also wanted to give time for JJP to respond before I did anything that might damage the playfield in a wider area. So, next week I should have some more details on mine. Unless I hear back from JJP in the next week, I'm done with this topic for now.

#472 7 months ago
Quoted from lexi:

Thanks for this, I will do this, if the time release can be amended that is great, just seems weird that it may be set to so short/small that the ball never gets released. I will have a look and feedback.

The coil fire times can affect a lot of things that might need tweaking. The ball autolaunch might not deposit the ball where you want it. The slings and coils might be too crazy. The tortuga hole might shoot the ball SDTM. The GREAT thing about JJP games is the plethora of settings and digital control you have over the mechanical function of the game. It also means you have to tweak it, but it's worth it.

#482 7 months ago
Quoted from AUKraut:

I have handled playfield glass thousands of times, and now this.......Scheiße!!!!


I always worry about that.

Thanks for the pics on the map hole. Sad to see that nut protrudes from the factory on multiple games, maybe all. I am going to do the cliffys in a few weeks.

#507 7 months ago
Quoted from joseph5185:

Okay ... I have the three molex connectors and the RJ-45 or w/e disconnected..
Let me consult the manual so I know EXACTLY which colors to disconnect on the right board...

You might consider PM'ing Lloyd or starting another thread so this one isn't a bunch of commentary.

#558 7 months ago
Quoted from DarthSinex:

Defying the laws of physics, if I hold the left flipper up to catch the kick out from the mystery hole it swoops through the gate to the left of the flipper and straight down the I hole. With the glass off, I can't see how that gate allows the ball to travel backwards through it, but it does...everytime. Anyone vaguely understand the way this is happening?

Exactly, I see similar. I just figured it was the way the gate was setup, but now that I think about it doesn't make sense.

#559 7 months ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

Yeah the right spinner. Let us know, Thanks!

Got confirmation today that JJP shipped out the two optos (one of them under warranty coverage) and 4 screws (all paid for, lol... I had one screw missing from the opto bracket, which you would think is a warranty issue, but I got 4 and paid for them all heh). So, that's sorta good.. should be back next weekend so I'll install then (probably pull the ship and do cliffys, fix the t-nut issue, fix the star post issue, etc).

#570 7 months ago
Quoted from wesman:

Yeah.... First was Cliffy installation. Second was wanting to make sure my wires were clear. Third was putting a wire loom around the ship's wiring, placing some mylar over the chapter select area, and installing the Pearl cannon shield, which is most likely gratuitous.

Perfect, thanks for doing all of that... so I can do it all on my first ship removal (and replace the opto)! Much appreciated lol

Btw, I'm a bit surprised that there is no mylar there. Seems like a no brainer.

#572 7 months ago
Quoted from joseph5185:

I honestly don't know that I'm going to put mylar over the chapter start area. I assume that area gets hit just as often as some other areas that don't have mylar or considering.
I'm almost going with yelobird theory on this one that if it was enough of an issue, it would have been mylared in the first place.
Because I can make the argument that if you put mylar here there are at least half a dozen other places you could as well.
Though, "extra" mylar over the ship overboard makes perfect sense and will happen.
Definitely going to clean and wax this area as well before trying to put that ship back on and I bought some wire loom (the softer/prettier kind) so I'll likely do the wires as well. I'm not so much worried about that plastic deflector shield or w/e.
I really feel like some of this is going to be "address it if you need to address it or don't worry about it" and the more I am quickly becoming acquainted to pinball, it almost feels like the right mindset as well.

I'm going to mylar both the starfield/chapter start and the overboard (double), because why not. If it isn't needed, no harm. For some reason mine also didn't have the sling mylar (maybe the original owner didn't install and didn't give it to me, but I had the goodie bag unopened) so I bought some from Titan to install.

#581 7 months ago
Quoted from wesman:

I talked to Frank on Wednesday about some parts. Haven't had confirmation or delivery yet.

I talk with Shannan and I got confirmation of the order today after talking with her late last week. Haven't heard back from Frank yet on any playfield chipping information.

#590 7 months ago
Quoted from joseph5185:

IDK if it's "perfect", but I think I'm coming to realize that nothing is in pinball...
If it's not...it's pretty damn close!
Also, resting position lol ..
Also, notice that TINY little chip on the right side...I'm not happy about it. Idk if it was there before or not, but hopefully the ramp will largely cover it up.
[quoted image][quoted image]

If I am understanding still what is going on, I think this might be your issue... I had the same issue when I changed the rubbers. The left flipper "rest" (the metal bar behind the flipper) is closer to the flipper on the left side than on the right. I used some pliers to gently bend it back (that was treacherous) so the flipper could "rest" all the way back. Mine was really bad after the rubber change, yours seems less so, but it looks like that might also be part of the issue.

jjPirates_of_the_Caribbean_Troubleshooting_Tips_Issues___Jersey_Jack_Pinball___Pinside_com (resized).jpg
#598 7 months ago

Might need to adjust the strength of the up kicker in the coil settings. Is it a problem of it trying to kick it multiple times and not succeeding?

#601 7 months ago
Quoted from Maurice:

Where can the Cliffy’s for Pirates be ordered? Couldn’t find the set on Cliffy’s site?

Email him to the address on the site and tell him what you want.

This is the kit https://www.passionforpinball.com/WIP/JJP-POTC-SET.JPG

#605 7 months ago
Quoted from joseph5185:

Just curious ..
Anyone like any alternatives to zip ties or simply doesn’t worry about re-tieing anything that was cut.
I was considering some Velcro straps of sorts that are used for bundling wires. Have a pic if needed.
If I can get the playfield cleaned/waxed, the ship reinstalled, the playfield leveled, and power on the game and be error free and finally play a few, I think it will be a successful day.

Velcro straps are great. I just put several on to hold some trough lighting wiring in place, navigated it all the way down the playfield and with the wiring loom.

#634 7 months ago

I'm on the edge of my seat!

#682 7 months ago
Quoted from zaphX:

What happens with headphones is irrelevant to what is going through the audio amp. Try reducing the audio mix values uniformly.
This is a simple thing to do in software which will immediately give you feedback.
You should do this before disconnecting random things and resulting in another 500 posts about it.
If it doesn't help, fine, next thing to try.

What's the situation with the audio clipping? Is it simply an issue of the mix volume or is there more to it? I do recall some posts about wire positioning or some adjustments in the cabinet. I ask because I get something similar but not exactly what he is describing. I'll work on the level adjustments, just looking for all the info.

#686 7 months ago
Quoted from vireland:

Yeah, I don't think there's very good normalization in the mixed output, so if you have one of the component volumes too loud, it can push the total volume over the top and clip it. It's been a problem since at least Hobbit. I don't recall it being an issue on WoZ, but I haven't played with volumes on that in a LONG time, so maybe I just didn't run across it.

Thanks for that. I also notice that my WOZ does not have as many startup "clicks" and "sqwaks" over the audio that POTC does. The WOZ has the same "BLAMO" that POTC does when something happens (maybe when the PC POSTS or finishes booting) but POTC makes a TON of noises (I posted a video) while it's booting. Wasn't sure if that was related. I'll mess with the levels.

#688 7 months ago
Quoted from Pinballomatic:

Different sound board in Pirates. All other JJP games use the same sound board not Pirates.

It's really... annoying. I'm almost tempted enough to figure out a little relay PCB board that stays open (disconnecting the speakers from the sound board) for 20 seconds or so.

#694 7 months ago
Quoted from f3honda4me:

As I mentioned in the other thread installing the PinWoofer amp and sub eliminated the pop for me.

Ah, I didn't see that post. From my rudimentary understanding it looks like something similar is happening with the boards they provide. I found plenty of amps like that which have soft start functions (delayed start) as well, I just wasn't sure if another amp would be warranted/needed so I was looking for a board that was simply a delay. It looks like, again I don't understand, the original audio output is broken down to line level so it can be then amplified and split to the new sub. I don't see why this would affect the startup to the speakers (it doesn't look like this solution interrupts the existing output to the speakers). Not to throw any shade, but it looks like that's about $40 worth of components at individual retail prices.

The components I am looking at, all accessories included, cost about $15-20 maybe.

I am not against just adding a woofer kit if that just "solves" the problem but I'd like to know why/how. Maybe pinwoofer would want to comment as to if this an intended result of their system and/or how/why it does this.

** also, given the way JJP games are setup the install could probably be a lot cleaner since we have 1/4" audio connectors and molex 12v power.

#701 7 months ago
Quoted from f3honda4me:

If you’re saying the kit I installed is $40 worth of parts, I know that’s not correct. :p And remember the PinWoofer kit is to increase bass and the quality of bass sound. Not eliminate a popping sound from stock sub.
pinwoofer maybe can provide insight on the JJP pop but he doesn’t have a game on hand to see.

I'm fairly sure that's the case, like I said, not trying to throw shade as there is development time and costs, knowledge, testing, profit needed, business costs, etc. But those amp boards and step down boards are maybe $15-20 of parts, less even wholesale, and a pyle 600w powered sub is $20. So maybe $50 with connectors and the plastic mounting board, etc.

Again, props to the creator for making the kit and doing the work but for people who have the knowledge this can be done on JJP titles pretty easily and cheaply.

**Ahhh ...no that model of sub is $40, so add $20.

#707 7 months ago
Quoted from PinWoofer:

There is no intended solution to power pop as a result of using our product and I don't recommend looking to our product as a solution to this problem. At the same time I would also not put it out of the realm of possibilities because it may be a timing thing (maybe coincidence, one off, if it has happened this way). If somehow the PinWoofer solves this on POTC / JJP, I'd like to thoroughly confirm it (correlate a few installs and I can dig into "why"). Also / if so, does it solve it for both the cabinet speaker and backbox?
I'd encourage you to read through the "New Amplified Subwoofer Kits by PinWoofer" thread. I get the take on cost of parts, but also want you to consider the ease of install, delivered to your door, having things exactly matched with spare connectors, tested and serialized. Our kit is common to many customers and is obscenely quick to install. All of these needles have been poked and discussed (and IV needle removed). There is room for the DIY'er and the guy who wants turnkey. We're here for the latter and just want pinball to get better like everyone. We also have product support for those who need it (some need a lot of it and that's OK). We strive to add value.
Thanks for the interesting post!

I feel like I need to keep reminding this thread that I'm not talking about the "pop". For a good 10 seconds or more after the power switch is flipped on my machine it makes many pops, cracks, loud whines, etc. My general volume is around 19 but I haven't been home to look at the individual levels, which has been discussed for another issue (audio clipping during the game). I haven't looked at the routing (nor changed it) of the audio cables, which I also intend to do. I mean, I obviously know what the pop sounds like.. my WMS games are very noticable and I could really care less about that, although it seems like it is somewhat easily solved on WMS games (per the other thread I linked) and probably should have been, and could be, solved on JJP games. I guess I'm anal, as apparently many pin folks are, so that would have been one of the things that I would have griped about during testing an original JJP game if that was my job. I mean, they revamped how a major pin manufacturer conceptualized componentry in an antiquated world, why still have the pop?

pinwoofer - how about offering a product to solve the pop? Might be a nice complement and I don't know of any other "audio" focused mod manufacturer so you seem like a natural fit. All of the older threads I've read from the WMS issue had bad links to people who maybe sold a solution at one time or another for WMS. I am betting that, much like your woofer kit, there could be a somewhat generic install that maybe just comes with the proper connectors for the various systems. You seem to have the knowledge and understanding of the audio and personally, if the cost was right, I'd be happy buying a kit if I didn't have to spend this tedious time trying to figure out how to resolve this. It seems like there are now (as compared to back when the WMS issue was hot) many options for these small chinese boards that do many, many things, so maybe there is a solution that can be easily produced. If not, it seems like the PCBs are stupid cheap to make... the prior thread (I think it was like 4-5 years old) had the cost of the PCB at like $30 a piece and there are only like 5 components on it.

Either way, I'll post my results when I get home. I've been kicking this around on reddit with folks way more qualified than I and they have proposed a few solutions but many of them above my pay grade, which is why I've been trying to source some sort of existing board. Since I don't know what exactly is causing my issue, and it could totally be a audio cable routing issue as it totally sounds like feedback, but I doubt I'll be able to get resolution any other way than fixing it myself. I'll definitely record it and post so everyone can hear and send it over to JJP for their comments, since the game is so new. But like I said, I'd nab 3 kits right now if they were $30. Heck, even if it was a componentry kit that I had to solder, if all the pieces were there and it was a printed PCB with clear instructions, sold. I mean, people are spending $60 on some plastic light up wands for TOM, $30 for a slick piece of componentry seems like nothing for this crowd.

(Oh.. and to clarify, I was lumping together the "pop" and the 10 seconds of craziness my game has in the "I'd pay $30 to fix this" because I was sort of falling back on the solution I am working on which is a power on delay circuit that would either keep the speakers from having audio or the amp from having power for X seconds after the game is turned on. I don't know, and reddit is mixed, if providing power to the amp later will still create the pop or if using a relay to disconnect the speakers will introduce another pop. The true fix for the pop on the WMS games seems to be something like this http://tuukan.fliput.net/nonoise_en.html and maybe that is the same for JJP, although the amp and such are completely different so not sure if it still applies)

#708 7 months ago
Quoted from f3honda4me:

My WOZ doesn’t exhibit this behavior to the extent JJPOTC does. Not sure why the pop is so loud on JJPOTC.

Out of curiosity, have you made any changes to the audio cable routing at all on POTC?

#710 7 months ago
Quoted from Yelobird:

HH. Have you tried all of the suggestions in the POTC owners thread already covered? From routing, unplugging cable etc already covered? Seems like this worked for most just not sure if you tried the simple solutions first. Again, with an issue specific topic like this its always best to start at the top of the thread and search the key word: IE; "Audio". This search in the owners thread offered Many solutions to this issue from owners, distributors, as well as JJP directly. Hope you can find a simple solution. Good Luck!

Yea that's what I was referring to with the rerouting of cables and volume settings. I am going to do those first, but I've been away from home so looking at other solutions which should end up serving a dual purpose so even if I find an existing solution works for my 10 seconds of crap, to have a solution for the initial "pop" as an offshoot is good too.

#713 7 months ago

Thank you for that, I'm on my way home from a trip, I'll check when I get there. I think I have a small amp I use with my Sonos system, thank you for the offer!

#718 7 months ago

I'm on a plane or I'd look at the sound board schematic, but it seems odd that the headphone jack wouldn't have that issue. Wondering if the board amplifies the different outputs differently. But I wouldn't imagine an analog amplifier (I mean it's not playing the digital files, it just takes the analog output from the PC board) wouldnt introduce clipping but it would have to be the sound board if the headphone jack isn't showing the symptoms.

#721 7 months ago
Quoted from PinWoofer:

joseph5185 I have two suggestions you can try:
1) if there are filter caps on the backbox speakers, disconnect them. It is possible that one has gone bad.
2) are you certain that your speakers are in-phase? Meaning that the correct wires are tied to "+" and "-". This applies to both the backbox speakers as well as the cabinet speaker. Listen to one speaker at a time. An out of phase condition will will make things sound terrible.
These might be long-shots - trying to help out.

Pretty sure the cabinet speakers are a single rca cable to each, but that's just going off what comes out of the sound board. Don't think they have caps either. The way he describes the issue it sounds like digital playback faltering but that seems odd. Who knows, could be a bad Mobo or hard drive causing issues. But we still need info on the sound level testing, moving the noise isolator...

(From 30k feet)

#722 7 months ago

Updated my seperate post with the "startup sounds" issue https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/audio-popping-on-power-on-in-jjp-games#post-4977309 ... get your popcorn and beer!

#732 7 months ago

Lots of updates and some success with the whining and popping on my game... more of interest to those in this thread is just the popping


#736 7 months ago


#740 7 months ago
Quoted from JustLikeMe:

My LE was delivered to a friends house last week and I’m moving it to mine this weekend. Very excited but he’s noticed a few issues whilst ‘testing’ it for me:
1. Shots to The Devils Triangle don’t seem to register at all.
2. The gate to access the cannon shot on the Pearl doesnt open properly, although we managed to get it in once.
3. 90% of the shots to the Maelstrom ramp end up in the bowl even if the multiball isn’t lit.
4. With the lockbar fully secured, the action button is closed. We had to play with the lockbar slightly loose for the action button to register.
5. The action button is getting stuck a little.
6. Upper left flipper is temperamental.
7. Chest ball release got stuck once.
8. Ball occasionally jumps out of left ramp if hit hard
9. Ball occasionally gets stuck above the light on the right of the playfield.
I’m sure most of these are minor issues and I do plan on reading through this thread, but if anyone has experienced any of the above issues and can point me in the right direction I’d appreciate it!

Wherever you posted this previous others responded with details on how to fix, or what to look at, for most of these items. The button thing is well covered in the index, the left ramp jumping is flipper power related, etc.

#748 7 months ago
Quoted from JustLikeMe:

but sorry to offend I guess.

No offense, just letting you know there were some answers there.

#749 7 months ago

Hallelujah! I can make a tortuga hole shot now!! I'm not totally inept at pinball!

The replacement tortuga hole cover (snubber bracket) solves the issue!! Can't comment on the STDM yet, but the launch trajectory is definitely different.

New on left
0507191557 (resized).jpg

0507191608 (resized).jpg

Oh and thanks to Steve at JJP for taking care of this so damn quick.

#751 7 months ago
Quoted from pickleric:

Did JJP send this to you, or did you buy it from PBL or Marco?

JJP... updated part, free to those who need it. Contact support.


#754 7 months ago
Quoted from f3honda4me:

I’ve been trying to get one ever since they came out. But I never get an answer to my ticket or email or call.

I'll PM you.

Quoted from wesman:

Is that higher than the standard scoop? The one it came with it pretty close to the wireform as is.

It's not really higher, per say.. it's longer. Meaning the tip of the scoop is closer to the front of the tortuga hole. It may be a hair taller but I made sure and it fits under the wireform easily.

#757 7 months ago
Quoted from gumnut01:

Huh. I think mine came with your new scoop. So maybe not all will have this problem. Built 28/8/2018, so I guess mine is quite an early build?[quoted image]

Yup, that looks like the new one and I think mine was built around the same time so maybe there was a cutoff right around that time.

#764 7 months ago
Quoted from Yelobird:

Called my distributor Mr awesome at KingPinGames and he has a new bracket on the way. Curious, what does this new design bracket help with? I assume bounce outs or something else.

My issue was not being able to make the shot. Ball bounced out every time, pretty much. Not sure if it was designed to change kickout, but making the shot is entirely possible now.

#765 7 months ago
Quoted from wesman:

How many plays are you at Joseph?

Zero. LOL

My game was on location and has not had the nut trimmed and the balls are shiny as the day they were born.

#767 7 months ago
Quoted from wesman:

Poor Joseph.... I realize he makes his own energy, but this dude also bought a CE of this for his first game. Pinball brings out the neurosis, and joy, in all of us.
Note taken! Glad your'e an owner, kept your on location game, and are posting about things you're encountering.
We got a good lot on this ship, for sure. ARRRRR!

I actually bought it from the operator, so don't give me too much props. I was lucky even to find an LE within driving distance. But yeah, interesting to see the kinds of issues I found with this game compared to other home use games. Funny enough, there is a game on route about 30 minutes from me that has similar issues to mine (and others here). I tried to find and let the operator know, not sure if that message got through.

#795 7 months ago
Quoted from joseph5185:

You're right. I'm a perfectionist.
But I love pinball or I wouldn't have bought it in the first place. The game thinks it's great. NO errors whatsoever. I just keep running into stupid, silly, things. Like the spinner won't spin. Really? Like...Okay. Haha
It "looks" fine to me. Am I wrong? [quoted image]

Take off the top of the ship and take a pic. Find out what is hanging up the spinner.

#807 7 months ago
Quoted from joseph5185:

Okay, so... I know what's wrong with the flipper.
I'm looking forward to this response...
Despite the pawl nut being tight, I'm able to rotate the flipper rod that feeds into the assembly at the bottom.
How did "this" happen? [quoted image]

I *feel* like we've covered this... on a smaller scale.

I mean, if you can rotate the flipper shaft inside the clamp then it's not tight. I don't know what mine look like, but that clamp does not look cinched down at all, at least not compared to the older games I work on.

#818 7 months ago
Quoted from zaphX:

3. Remove the 5 hex bolts

Those are just nuts, my man... bolts are male.

#824 7 months ago
Quoted from Yelobird:

I was kidding of coarse. I have a 4" pipe wrench on it now and all is good!

It's not intuitive but you need to go clockwise while unscrewing the BP. Just get a good bite on it with the wrench and crank away. I think it has some red locktite on the mounting post so don't be afraid to lean in to it. A small sledge will help coerce it out.

#830 7 months ago
Quoted from Blind_Willie:

I really want to get this game but if I do, I’ll likely have to remove the backbox to get it in my house (narrow doorways). Has anyone had to do this with their Pirates and if so, how was the removal process?

I've been poking around in the backbox a lot and it looks like it's pretty straight forward. I couldn't tell you if everything is a connector and you can just unplug it, but everything I've looked at is so it seems like there should be no problem. I'm sure it is heavy as can be with all of the stuff in there. There will be a LOT of plugs but nothing a picture or two won't help with.

#834 7 months ago
Quoted from JustLikeMe:

I’m doing this on Saturday. Will let you know how it goes / take some photos.

Yeah, seriously, get that game home so you can try and get some high scores already

#851 7 months ago
Quoted from gumnut01:

Yes mine is level. It does not always go sdtm after star map but it happens often enough that it can ruin a game. It happened on my highest scoring game to date. Unlike a kick out, there is no deflector to adjust. There is no tinkering that can solve. I have a digital calibrated level. Game is 6.55 and level from side to side. Please people that do not have this happening, do not brush aside and say it’s not a problem. It is enough of a problem that multiple people have reported it. A configurable 2 second ball save is not going to affect you people who swear it never happens. You can have it turned off and not be affected. I have posted Keith but he has not responded. I hope this can be resolved. It’s not a deal breaker, just takes a bit of a shine off when it happens. Lyman knew this would happen during strobe Multiball in AFM so he added it. Sorry for going on, but it is disheartening to report something and then have it discounted by others.

Jurassic Park has a ball save for the raptor kickout.

#853 7 months ago
Quoted from zaphX:

No, don’t stop posting. You’re absolutely right that if it’s a problem for you, an optional ball save would be a fair solution.
I wish the SDTM was not happening for you or that I had a potential fix. I’ve had hands on setup and extensive play time on 3 different machines. Some patterns have emerged (for example all of them had gold button issues.). But I’ve not seen the SDTM myself. That does not mean it’s not happening and I’m sorry for making you feel this way.

That gold button issue is really a kick in the nuts. Sure seems like the button that was used was cheap... compared to the Stern one (dare I say) especially. Again, for a machine this pricy you'd think that a) that wouldn't be an issue to begin with and b) that it'd be a retroactive fix that was sent out to all owners automatically. Same with the tortuga scoop update. Had I not known I'd have been continually disheartened to not be able to make that shot.

#854 7 months ago
Quoted from Yelobird:

Never discredit that someone has an issue. A game setup just .1 degrees different in any direction can yield different results so its understandable that some may have more issue then others. With that said I want to throw out a suggestion (not tested!!) to see if this Could solve this issue Now with minimal time and effort. The issue appears when the ball comes to rest after the bump around it flows perfectly to center. What if... you install a single clear plastic washer say 3/4" Under the post stud above the post sleeve. In theory, that would Just slightly push the ball resting position right or left depending on the side of issue. First you would need to determine does it more commonly happen when the ball comes to rest on the Left or Right of the post. Then install washer to the weak side. Just a thought and attempt to help those frustrated.
[quoted image]

Unless really jostled to the right mine almost always sits on the left and that is where the STDM almost always, if not always, happens from. I was pondering something several posts back about putting something there and your concept seems like it could have some legs.

#859 7 months ago
Quoted from Yelobird:

Just trying to offer suggestions. Please NOBODY let Joesph know we are working on another modification!!!! Not great at trigonometry any longer but it does seem like if you could offset that (in your case) left post to push the ball slightly right and at a different position on the drop post you might have a solution.

I should add that the rubber there is almost gone, so the ball sits way further left and up against the stand up target there. Likely this has some impact on it as well. Not sure what others are seeing there, but I still gotta bit that BP bullet and fix all those things (right spinner opto, cliffy install, t-nut, replace all rubbers). But... it's the only game that I own right now that is close to functional, lol. So I gotta put that off some more.

#867 7 months ago
Quoted from Yelobird:

That stinks. I must say I always noticed and suspected that the games talk to each other! When one breaks I think they all decide to mess with you at the same time just to see that you pay them all attention.

Well... it's mostly my fault. I parlayed (ha) a broken TOM ramp to an entire upper playfield rebuild. And embarked on a JP playfield swap at the same time. And bought a WOZ RR to replace my SE which needs some attention. So yea, all on me.

Quoted from vireland:

Maybe try a star post on the left side to force it to rest on the right side.

Ironically, that was what I think I suggested originally (a double star post actually, to protect the rubber with a second one and to nudge the ball right) and ironically I was just messing around on PBL for like the 3rd hour trying to get all my JP items ordered and tossed a few different clear star posts in my cart to try out there. Of course, I don't have the matching clear ring from titan to go on the double post, so that will mess with my anality.

#887 7 months ago
Quoted from Maurice:

Request for the next code update: replace the sound that played when a ball activates an not lit in- or outlane switch. It’s an annoying sound which doesn’t match the pirates theme in any way. Once a lane is already active the sound is much more quiet.
During multiball the mystery display effect could be shortened to just show the reward. And move on with the multiball. This also applies to the chapter start animation. Just start it.
Are map awards active during multiball? If so: just show the reward.
In short the multiballs should be centered around getting jackpots and super jackpots. All the long animations make it more difficult to understand what’s going on.

I like your multiball suggestions... the intersecting callouts and video audio seem to get lost in the shuffle. It is sort of nice to have the time where balls are trapped in the map hole or in the starfield, so that might be a consideration. Maybe it could just be an option to have an abbreviated set of animation sequences if you are in multiball.

#888 7 months ago
Quoted from Psw757:

Are the photos showing correct placement or stock inside subway?
Honestly can’t tell by looking.

Photo is showing it inside the subway, it should not be.

#890 7 months ago
Quoted from Psw757:

Can someone post a photo of it out?
I looked at this a while back and swear I didn’t have a post at all.

I would if I could...Looks like that might be another change from earlier games (sigh.. JJP, COMEON). And I'm missing a subway screw, it seems. So.. now the question is, is the post necessary?

0510191508 (resized).jpg

#893 7 months ago
Quoted from vireland:

As I understand it, the post just helps keep balls from getting backed up and one or more lost in there during multiball.

It would be nice not to have to stumble upon these changes. Like, the software has a nice changelog that gets released with updates, why not for production line changes? The washers under the star posts, for example. The protruding t-nut, chafing BP wires... Is it because JJP doesn't want to admit issues? Take responsibility? One can only guess, usually the worst thoughts.

#897 7 months ago
Quoted from zaphX:

Yeah you need the post. Search the main POTC thread for "Ace Hardware" and you can get the parts list to build your own.

Sweet, have like a 150 item PBL order going, nothing like a few more parts, lol. Not sure why you need those parts, isn't it just a narrow star post and a machine screw?


**BAH... they don't have a 2" #8... oh well, hopefully home depot or my "box of screws and junk" does.

Humm... shouldn't need a 2" screw if that is a starpost. Those are only 1-1/4" tall so a 1-3/4" screw should be fine even with that metal bracket.

#899 7 months ago
Quoted from Psw757:

I’m thinking they may be scrap pieces from assembly because everything seems to be working fine.

Goodie "bag" ... heh

#902 7 months ago
Quoted from Psw757:

Well son of a bitch!
Was poking around the game today after putting about 50 games on it and what do I discover? Lower left sling post chipping has begun.
What’s the safest bet here for minimizing further? I have 3/4” semi clear washers as recommended earlier and Mylar.
I can live with a chip but don’t want the whole area flaking up.
Pisses me off!

Where are your clear washers located? I'm guessing up near the sling plastics because you didn't mention that you changed the star posts and it'd look really weird to have the 3/4" washers under the narrow star posts. Or did your game come with the tiny clear washers under the posts already? Either way, here is what I did:


Some other discussion:


Post some pics of your existing setup so we can track data points and see what is happening on other games.

#903 7 months ago
Quoted from vireland:

Mylar, IMO. I don't think the washers will solve the problem.

I'd suggest it's the other way around, personally. Mylar is an extremely thin piece of plastic... the original narrow star posts have a sharp lip on the bottom, how is mylar going to protect from that? Unless someone is balking at the look, I'd suggest what I did in my post, linked above. That way you have an entirely flat, large surface area of PETG washer at the bottom which spreads the load, stops further pressure from the narrow post and prevents more cracking, I'd say.

*Edit--- Now that you edited,lol... you don't have any cracking. Why would mylar help those with cracking/divoting? Not only that, I bet the mylar puffs up at the edges over time as the post settles in, more so if the mylar is closer cut to the post. Also, were your narrow posts sharp on the bottom?

#905 7 months ago
Quoted from vireland:

How much experience do you have with mylar on playfields? My experience with it is much different than your assertion. Not saying you're wrong, just that I haven't seen the issues you're talking about when using it.
With the method you're talking about, you're spreading the pressure out, but the PETG disc still has a sharp edge unless you're beveling them by hand. That will dig over time.

I took a mylar master class and got 100% on the test. I can probably bet that it's not near the experience that you do, just making logical and reasonable assumptions based on experience in general. I could be 100% wrong.

The PETG discs I used had an almost imperceptible lip on one side, I put the other side down. I also put the least amount of tension on the posts that I could feel comfortable doing, which I think (combined with the sharp lip), is what contributed to this more than anything. But.. the pressure is extraordinarily more spread out with the petg washer than either with a post alone (stock) or with mylar. Just because the larger star post sits on the edge of the washer does not mean the load is concentrated in that area, the washer is thick and not extremely pliable. You're still talking about a concentrated load where the post meets the playfield, the mylar can only spread that out so much. And let's not forget JJPs solution to the issue was to put a clear washer under the narrow posts, which seems to have prevented the cracking and divoting for newer games.

#907 7 months ago
Quoted from Psw757:

I was still stock, no washers on PF. Not too worried about the plastics.
Trying to decide Mylar then 3/4 washer with skinny JJP post on it or Mylar, 3/4 washed and star posts which I don’t have.

Ahhhh, I thought you said you had washers installed so I was interested to know how it was chipping/cracking.

#909 7 months ago
Quoted from Psw757:

Ordered the 3/4” from pinball life in anticipation of this.
Just trying to determine the best resolution to cover the small chip and prevent more but also look ok.
What star posts did you go with?

Just the classic posts. I put 2 blue and 1 clear on each side to match the playfield sorta.


0429191438 (1) (resized).jpg
#914 7 months ago
Quoted from wesman:

I was going to use two blue in the water, and a red up top.
Considering there's so much plastic there, might as well make it more pleasant than just clear I felt.

I was looking for a darker amber color but couldn't find anything to match. I just got red for my TOM and they are really red, the playfield is more orange brown. I guess there aren't too many color options for star posts.

BTW, those are aqua or light blue depending on who you order from. But everyone calls the dark blue, "blue". Only some places have the aqua. I ordered from a few places to get color options and they ended up all being the same.

#928 7 months ago
Quoted from Psw757:

Looks like until I can get some star posts I’ll need to install the skinny factory posts on the 3/4” lexan washers.
Has there been any digging in with the star posts on top of the washers?
Anyone who has had the chipping put any type of automotive clear coat on the chip or any other product?

No digging I see. I also was very careful how tight I went on the posts.

#929 7 months ago
Quoted from zaphX:

Agree 100% on the pitch. Top of bubble to the second line plays perfect for me. I’ve played them steeper at shows and it makes it more frustrating not more fun.
For the flipper, it is almost certainly not the double-leaf switch that is causing excess resistance - those things take VERY little effort to engage.
Instead try just replacing the button. You may have one that is binding like the gold button, or maybe it just has a really stiff spring.
If you’re still unhappy at that point, then look at doing more...but you really want to retain the two stage functionality if you can.
As you progress in skill there will be a point where you want to cradle a ball on the lower flipper while engaging the top one.

Why do you want or need the double action on the flippers?

#932 7 months ago
Quoted from BC_Gambit:

As pickle eric notes... so you can "git gud"

Eeeesh. Crazy.

#938 7 months ago
Quoted from gumnut01:

The other benefit to independent flippers I guess is being able to activate bottom left whilst not activating flipper over the depths. Many times I hold the flipper down too long all the way only to have some of my shots from left flipper to chest hit the top left flipper. Very hard to tell my brain to touch and caress the button lightly when I’m so god damn excited.

Ahh yeah, I can relate to that. I always thought I should be adjusting the switches so they fired as close together as possible, lol.

#941 7 months ago
Quoted from vireland:

Mylar ring sets if you have two star posts on each sling are in the pinmonk store on pinside. Two large rings, one small ring per sling. I'll be adding and all-slim set once I get enough punched out. The small ones are harder to make due to the size. [quoted image]

HA nice. Can you post a picture of yours all installed?

#954 7 months ago
Quoted from vireland:

They're clear so it's really hard to see them once installed, but I took a picture of a star post without the paper backing removed from the ring to give an idea of the coverage.
[quoted image]

Yeah, I was specifically wanting to see them without the backing on the larger star posts, lol.

#956 7 months ago
Quoted from Psw757:These look much thinner than most of the lexan and nylon washers, is this the case?

Considerably, probably 1/4 the thickness I'd guess of PETG washers.

#979 7 months ago
Quoted from Asael:

The LED on the big LED Board under the playfield is red, so this is ok? If so, should I check the cables to the board, cause the inserts don`t light up anymore?
[quoted image]

Lloyd said red on the smaller boards (under the playfield) is bad. Sounds like it needs to be replaced. As to why it blew, I'd like to know that too.

#1005 7 months ago

Please report your issues with star post cracking and dimpling here. We need to have a centralized count and report so we can push this issue forward.


#1036 6 months ago

My spots also don't flicker (of course the BP lanterns do) but my topper flickers like the dickens and I have it set to max brightness and the attract mode off. Not sure if there is any other change to do.

#1038 6 months ago
Quoted from vireland:

WoZ topper flickers, too. It seems like they just need to read
up on how to drive the LEDs smoothly. If LED OCD can do it, they
can, too. The LED OCD board has excellent, smooth LED fades in and

Yup, you're right... incidentally so does the throne room light (on the wizard plastic).

#1044 6 months ago
Quoted from joseph5185:

I'm still struggling with this ongoing discussion about soft playfield and overtightening sling screws and on and on and on...
Honestly, I think I need to put a good 1,000 games on this or so and ACTUALLY PLAY the damn thing before I start obsessing over something new. Plus, I was one of the fortunate ones? I guess because I have the washers already installed underneath the sling posts. It doesn't look the best being metal but meh.. don't even see 'em with the lights out!

Come on over, we're discussing here... might nice to move it out of this thread https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/potc-who-has-playfield-dimples-cracking-wear-around-star-posts-/page/3#post-4993917

#1046 6 months ago
Quoted from zaphX:

This is the absolute best advice you’ve ever given yourself.
I un favorited the other thread on the issue because it’s borderline hysteria.

Eh, I know your opinion on it but I think there is still some validity to the issue of a game that is less than a year old losing pieces of the playfield. Is there too much hysteria, I think in a hobby with this kind of money involved and passion there is going to be stuff like that, but I think JJP isn't helping by not getting involved.

#1048 6 months ago
Quoted from GnarLee:

Yep had a wire come loose off the shooter lane switch. 5 second solder job and all is good again. On a side note had to do a little cleaning because glass was off (going to do full maintenance tomorrow) and cleaned the in/out lanes and map spinner. Map spinner had some rowdy ball dust on it, like literally changed colors in front of my eyes. So psa when you guys are doing your minor maintenances make sure to give you spinning map some love easy to forget about.
Edit* Also changed out the balls as a couple of mine looked fairly rough. One actually kinda looked like a gold ball with a shitton of little dimples in it. The standard marco pinballs are correct? Can order something different if thats not right but had a spare 5 pack in my repair box so swapped them in and retired the old balls.

Map spinner? Depths spinner or BP spinners are all I know.

Did you see if you had the t-nut issue in the map hole? That could be causing your balls to get nicked up. As far as I know standard balls are ok, although I think there was some debate about magnetism and ball type.

#1054 6 months ago
Quoted from GnarLee:

the actual spinning map that makes your ball go all over the place....you know the omni directional spinning map
I did see the T-nut issue. Will prolly fix it one of these days but have to wait till I got a few hours with no one in the house.

Ooooooh, gotcha

#1057 6 months ago
Quoted from vireland:

That power connector is daisy chained. I'd check to see what (if any) voltage it's delivering. Maybe the connector is broken.

Could it be the cat5 cable?

#1061 6 months ago
Quoted from LTG:

Bad solder joint at coil or poor connection from the coil to the I/O board. Might need a tiny bit of up/down play on the flipper bat so the pawl under the playfield isn't binding on the nylon bushing, or the coil stop might be leaning in or out and isn't straight up or down.
LTG : )

Maybe a loose nut on the pawl? Seems like that would be a consistent issue.

#1065 6 months ago
Quoted from PBMAN:

Just got this bad boy from Amazon to stop the Pop at turn on. Anybody install one yet that can shed some light. I am guessing I’m looking for a 3.5 mm Jack somewhere
[quoted image]

That won't stop the pop at startup. There is already a noise isolator in the back box. You can try replacing it if you want. It's in the large silver box inside the back box. This would prevent hissing and whining not the DC pop that the amp makes. But I'm working on a solution.

#1071 6 months ago
Quoted from PanzerFreak:

Had an opto die / break the other day. This one is located closest to The Depths scoop eject. Opto wouldn't respond in test and depths coil kept firing. Each opto is on it's own mini harness and when one goes bad the fix is replacement. Notified my distributor and he's ordered a new one through JJP. First opto I've had go out from my 4 JJP pins.
[quoted image]

My right opto on the BP spinners broke in half. Have one sitting here to install.

#1080 6 months ago
Quoted from skyrex:

Soooo I have my first real problem that is beyond me. The left upper playfield flipper goes non stop when you are holding the left flipper button. I ran a report and it says it’s fine but when I test it it just keeps repeatedly non stop flipping. Reset the game and still happening. Any idea what is up?

Check the left flipper button leaf switch. Make sure it's gapped properly, there are two "switches" within the single module, one for the lower flipper and one for the uppers. Compare to the right button leaf switch, adjust as needed.


I'd also look at the wires going to the leaf switch at the button and the wires going to the flipper coil at the flipper itself. Make sure there is nothing loose or bad solder joints.

#1084 6 months ago

For anyone following my issues and is having whining/hissing sounds coming out of the speakers during the boot process or cracking/popping noises when the game is fully on, it is likely your ground loop isolator/noise reducer thingy that JJP used. It's easily replaced, I wrote up a thread detailing my look into it with a part I replaced it with from Amazon: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/does-anyone-else-have-this-hissing-whining-on-boot-on-any-jjp-game#post-4998295

The noise isolator in POTC is in the backbox, in the silver box. It's a black plastic box plugged in with 3.5mm headphone jacks, one going into the motherboard (green jack) and one going to the amp board (blue jack). Just unplug the one going in to the amp, plug in the isolator. Disconnect the connection from the existing noise isolator (it's wrapped up in the big bundle of wires in the ziptie) and plug this new one in. I guess you could plug it in anywhere, just unplug the old one and plug the new one in somewhere.

#1091 6 months ago

I have the exact same issue. JJP sent me one, I bought the other to do both since the BP has to come off. Gotta snake the wiring harness down there.

#1096 6 months ago
Quoted from wesman:

I just twisted them out. They come out fairly easily, but putting them back in on the other hand..... Far easier to reinstall them when the ship is out, fyi.
And I had the cannon shield in, seemed fine installation wise, then somehow when putting the Pearl back in, for the fourth time, it kept touching the shield, no matter how I positioned it. So I removed it.

Yup, twist/pull.. they come out pretty easy. When putting them back in, lick them (or wet them some other, more hygenic way) and they pop right in.

#1099 6 months ago
Quoted from wesman:

Never considered licking those wee buggers, but it kinda makes sense!
Reminds me of all the people that started licking their Nintendo Switch cartridges, only to realize a special chemical was used to encourage kids not to do the same. I hope Pirates are tastier HH!

Personally, I licked my finger and then rubbed the nub... but to each their own

#1106 6 months ago
Quoted from zaphX:

PROBLEM: Balls getting stuck on the "Man Overboard" self by the Pearl
SOLUTION: There is a clear cabinet bumper there to prevent this; it may be installed in the wrong place. I had two machines, one which was having this problem and one which was not. I carefully removed the bumper and relocated it to match the good machine and I've never had the problem recur.
Here is the location that seems to work perfectly. (Note the position relative to the text as well as the position of the shooter lane wireform.)[quoted image]

Can you put an arrow on that pic? I am not sure what specifically I am looking at.

#1123 6 months ago
Quoted from joseph5185:

Edit: Yea I don't think those levels are the issue. Just to illustrate how bad it is. I can basically just hold down the button as the numbers go down and hear static the whole time. I'm definitely going to unplug in the 10 pin in the connector.
This game will be on another level once I get this audio sorted..

Have you tried replacing the ground loop isolator?

Apparently the ones JJP uses are not good? That's all I can determine since I used two, from two different machines, didn't solve the whining/hissing on boot and the cheapo one from Amazon did. Maybe it will solve your issue as well.

The POTC one is in the backbox, in the silver PC box.

#1124 6 months ago

Caught the ball skipping over the chapter select plastic. I don't know if you can get a good sense from the video, but it seems clear that the opto sensor is not the culprit. I can tell you the shot was fairly hard but clean. I can't tell precisely why it is riding up the ball guide. It obviously rides up and over the guide hits the star map and shoots back over the chapter select plastic. I can probably get this to happen once or twice a game. Any suggestions? I am guessing this isn't going to be good long term.

Skip ahead to like 1:19

#1128 6 months ago

I should show you a video of the rest of the playfield. Chest is just makeable, the flipper power is definitely not crazy. They were on stock (when I got it they were turned way up and I was shooting out of the maelstrom). I just took them both down 2 below stock. Still doesn't seem crazy, but we'll play like that for a while and see.

#1133 6 months ago
Quoted from Yelobird:

Understood and while I don't know the scientific trig formula a simple Plus .2 degrees of playfield incline changes any coil setting plus or minus. If its hitting hard, (which in that video it appeared to be hammering the chest compared to mine) simply keep lowering power till all seems equal. Many confuse Default setting with Correct setting. Completely different.

Ok, gotcha... I'll check incline and keep lowering flipper power.

#1158 6 months ago
Quoted from gumnut01:

Found out why my opto was broken on the BPs right spinner.
The VUK comes out right next to it and the playfield underneath is completely hammered. No Mylar! I would have thought this would be standard here. I did search for this, apologies if my search skills have failed.
Anyway have not put down Mylar yet. Not sure if possible after this much dimpling.
To resolve for now I have turned the BPs VUK strength down to 20. Now ejects up to black pearl nicely without the customary “THUNK” that I thought was normal. [quoted image]

DUDE.. thank you for posting that! My right opto is also broken (have two new ones to install) and the thunk kills me every time. Going to turn vuk down and see about the mylar as well. Funny, cause there is mylar on the castle playfield on WOZ where the ball thunks down.

#1160 6 months ago
Quoted from gumnut01:

Yeah, it’s one of those things you see and you think “Naaahhhhhh!”
I wondered why we both had this opto broken. Mine is just hanging together with duct tape on the middle and I lost the bottom screw. Works though.
Going to miss the “THUNK” it sounded like a real pirate boarding! Arrrrrrrrr!

Mine ALSO lost a screw!

#1165 6 months ago
Quoted from MarZ_78:

Do you know if there specific areas on the play field that are used to level the machine. Just wondering if there is a specific set of marks on the artwork that is used for to be exact.

Thanks for the suggestion but i tried this without an improvement. Might give it another try after I re-level.

All you ever wanted to know: https://www.pinballnews.com/learn/level/index.html

Basically, for side to side level use a spirit level at two places on the playfield directly, near the flippers and as close to the top as you can get. You need a inclinometer to do degree tilt or use the built in spirit level. There is a phone app that some people use, specific to pinball machine leveling, you might give that a shot... not sure of the name. Like PinballLevel or MrLevel or something maybe.

#1169 6 months ago
Quoted from zaphX:

Heh “for some reason.”
Android apps do not magically spawn from iOS codebases. Developers must explicitly create a version for the lesser platform, or compromise from the start using a cross-platform development tool.
Most iOS developers only do iOS. Companies that support both usually have teams for both.
Source: I do this.

Sidebar... are you saying all cross-platform development tools are compromised from the start? I started using them back when they first came out and they were shit. I imagined by now there are so many kinks worked out to offer native support for both platforms pretty closely.

#1177 6 months ago
Quoted from Schabs81:

Those for the inlanes where balls drop?

Yup. They are generic and work on most games, anywhere a switch slot is messed up or has the potential these are great additions.

#1179 6 months ago
Quoted from wesman:

Yup. Just slot them in. I leave my adhesive on. Pinch them good when you place them, to avoid hitting the playfield.

Meaning you don't reveal the adhesive on the back? Yeah, I didn't do that on my POTC ones either and they seem to stay in place fine.

#1189 6 months ago
Quoted from MarZ_78:

I have a broken BP spinner optical sensor too.

That's three people now if I recall properly.

#1195 6 months ago

Am I just missing something or does the Tortuga hole not have a coil setting? But then there is one I think called "Bumper VUK" or something, is that it?

#1198 6 months ago


Quoted from wesman:

Are you pumping that down for less velocity? I considered doing that on mine, given the scoop angle seems fine.

Yeah, exactly. On all of my JJP games (2 WOZ and 1 POTC) the right "hole" is always inconsistent. Sometimes, STDM, sometimes right flipper. So yeah, doing some adjustment to try and get it more consistent by turning it down (or up).

#1218 6 months ago
Quoted from EaglePin:

Has anyone tried using nail polish hardener to prevent chipping at scoops and holes? I remember a post from the club thread a long time ago and I've had it in the back of my mind for awhile. I'm thinking of applying some around the edges of the map hole and Torguga scoop to prevent chipping. Just wondering if anyone has experience with it and if it works. Here's the post from awhile back:

I'm working on using uv nail polish on woz powder coated wire forms.

#1242 6 months ago
Quoted from joseph5185:

Question guys...
What's easier?
Lubing the button or replacing the button with a Stern?

Replace it. No question. The button JJP used is shit.

#1248 6 months ago
Quoted from indypinhead:

I've noticed that on the extra ball call-out, at the end of the call-out the speech slows down and sounds a little weird. Is this normal?

HAH.. yeah, that's atmosphere!

#1250 6 months ago
Quoted from gumnut01:

I thought this and had a new one sent. The one in there is the same as this. I could not find a different clear flipper button.
2nd one I received started doing the same thing.
Solution. Take button out, and remove screw at bottom. Hold outer casing and bash the center lightly from the bottom of the button. the inside will come out. Find any burrs, they are usually on the side of the button that sticks out where we bash. File these down smooth with a small nail file. I just polished mine off. All fixed. Gunk can also get in there from time to time. This will fall out when you take it apart. I don't think you will find a flipper button with 0 maintenance. They were never designed to face straight up. Angle is slightly different, so any burrs are noticeable and gunk will get in there.

Are you talking one from JJP sent? Because the JJP part is not the Stern part, the Stern part is noticeably better. Not just the "getting stuck" issue but the overall action of the button. Maybe it's the spring, but it sure feels like a better part overall. It's not a question in my mind to replace it, just like if you are having whining noises replace the inline ground loop isolator with a $9 part from Amazon. I don't know if JJP is cheaping out on the parts (these two things and the posts with the sharp bottoms) but those things aren't right.

#1252 6 months ago
Quoted from Lermods:

Just had a minor issue with the left upper flipper not falling back down all the way. Took the spring off, shortened it a few loops and it’s back to normal.

When I replaced the rubbers on mine the metal guide behind the flipper was too close to it and was preventing it from returning. I had to manually bend the metal guide back a bit, FYI.

#1254 6 months ago
Quoted from gumnut01:

Fair enough. I stand corrected. My replacement was sent by my Australian distributor. Did not realise there are 2 different buttons out there. Mine is working fine now that I removed the small burr. As for the action of this other button, it costs $15 AUD to get it. I have repaired mine and they work. Will see how they go.

The thing I noticed mostly was the "floppyness" of the button. The center part of the button which you depress is all sorts of loose on the JJP one I have. The stern one is much tighter/stiffer in that lateral motion but it isn't at all hindered in the up and down motion. It seems to have better action to it and feels more quality. It's a stupid, minor thing, so if the deburring solves it why not. I was ordering from Marco anyhow so I figured it was much easier just to swap it.

#1268 6 months ago
Quoted from cheshirefilms:

No, but pretty sure it's not that. When this spring is misaligned it still opens and stays open just not all the way.
If I manually move this little spring back center performance goes back to 100 percent and gate will fully open and I don't notice any lower playfield triggered glitches.
If it slides over to the right edge of this plastic with hole or whatever it is that's it's attached to, the gate doesn't open fully (but stays open as it should).

I am having flashbacks and nightmares of the WOZ castle doors springs. I just had to fix mine for like the 30th time. I think I finally have it settled, just the right amount of tension.

#1272 6 months ago

Captured ball should release after the game is over (unless you start a new game before it gets to that point). Balls being able to make it up the forks was covered here, did you do all that? https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jjpirates-of-the-caribbean-troubleshooting-tips-issues#post-4933982

#1285 6 months ago
Quoted from jarozi:

Has anyone hacked something to protect this area or does just turning down the VUK pretty much get rid of this issue?

Turning down the VUK seems to be the solution. I would love to see some protection there, mine was one of the broken ones.

#1297 6 months ago
Quoted from gliebig:

My spotlight above Tortuga Tom always goes out. I've tried several bulbs. Any tricks for this?

Are you using 12v bulbs?

#1298 6 months ago
Quoted from TZBen:

The upper interior loop isn’t very smooth on my game, the transition between the rails seems to have s thunk that is robbing a smooth fast loop. I still get multiple loops in a row but a clean shot sometimes barely makes it around. I’ve played with the slope and the game is level. Can the rails be tweaked?

I'd like to hear more on this.. Still having loop issues too

#1304 6 months ago
Quoted from zaphX:

I've been able to fix this 100%.
Pull out the bulb (straight out, do not twist.)
Straighten out the two wires and wrap e-tape around the base once, then fold them back.
They will stay in place and stay on.

Were your bulbs not hot glued in? Usually JJP does this and combined with the legs being bent properly they seem to stay in place well (in fact, very hard to remove them to replace with others)