Just bought an LE. Blown away. Awesome game. Have an issue with dauntless not sitting correctly, and cannon not hitting hole. I know this has been brought up before and Yelobird posted a photo of the assembly behind the play field. Mine looks different as I do not have a nut. But when I look in the manual it does not have a nut either. Anyway here is my out of whack dauntless and the bottom of the assembly. Any ideas on how to fix. I shall contact support.

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I showed the dauntless from above to point out that it juts forward compared to the fixed deck, whereas other people seem to have the hull and the deck aligned. Here are other photos including the cannon alignment. I searched for any posts on cannon alignment or fixing the position of the dauntless but could not find anything. As stated Yelobird's photo of the mechanism for the dauntless has an extra nut which I do not have and is not shown in the manual.

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Sorry everyone, just saw this post in the pirates forum:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jjp-pirates-of-the-caribbean-official-owners-and-fan-club/page/127#post-4908546

I shall try this!

As others have stated grabbing a 5/16" thickness may be difficult, but since it is only 1 1/4" long, maybe 1/4" thickness would suffice? Anyway, I will grab what I can in that length, try it and report back.

Thanks Spidey! Good to know!

Thanks Gliebig, the wires seem to be pretty loose and has play. Will check again.

Huh. I think mine came with your new scoop. So maybe not all will have this problem. Built 28/8/2018, so I guess mine is quite an early build?

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Action button getting stuck. I guess just ask for a new one from Jack? Also thanks to all the posters who helped with the shorter hex spacers. Great fun shooting the bullseye. Damn difficult to do during black pearl Multiball. Anyone else resolved the sticking action button?

Thanks zaphx. I tried silicon lubricant. It did not do much. I think this button has a few burrs on it that are catching. I wonder if it is because the angle is different to a normal flipper button and that it gets pounded.

Thanks, will give it a go.

I think I did see you mention this before but forgot. So many posts, sorry. Shall look into this as well. Thanks.

Yes mine is level. It does not always go sdtm after star map but it happens often enough that it can ruin a game. It happened on my highest scoring game to date. Unlike a kick out, there is no deflector to adjust. There is no tinkering that can solve. I have a digital calibrated level. Game is 6.55 and level from side to side. Please people that do not have this happening, do not brush aside and say it’s not a problem. It is enough of a problem that multiple people have reported it. A configurable 2 second ball save is not going to affect you people who swear it never happens. You can have it turned off and not be affected. I have posted Keith but he has not responded. I hope this can be resolved. It’s not a deal breaker, just takes a bit of a shine off when it happens. Lyman knew this would happen during strobe Multiball in AFM so he added it. Sorry for going on, but it is disheartening to report something and then have it discounted by others.

See rs812, the target audience is going to ignore my post anyway. I think I will stop posting as well. Thanks for the acknowledgement. Enjoy this great game!!

Thanks zaphX. You sir, are a gentleman. It was me feeling small fry amongst the big trouser wearing boys. You have helped many people who jump to the conclusion that something is a huge issue when in fact there is a simple explanation which will resolve it. You try to illustrate that the simple explanation should be attempted first. And you help heaps of people. I feel now I should apologise (starting to choke up a bit!)

I looked at the plastic removal over the star map and thought you might be able to loosen the top nut and sneak the rubber under as well. Alas, that causes the problem you mentioned.

The sdtm problem is just every now and again, but it would be great if it could be fixed.

Thank you Yelobird. You did not have to analyse this for a solution. Thank you for taking the time. I can’t say which side of the post causes the problem more. When I look at it, a totally random element is at play with the magnet. This tries to simulate a missed shot going up the play field which has hit something and deflected. Most of the time it works. Not sure if the starting position for a random force would change behaviour, but I will give it a go when I need to access that part of the machine. Because it’s random I may not experience it for a day. Other days I have had it happen in 2 games in a row.

I have admired your mods. The wife and I are very interested. We will decide on a few in a couple of weeks. Still coming to terms with this awesome machine. Pity the Aussie dollar tanks so bad.

My best decisions are always made after the wrong choice...

Thanks for your help on this as well! I’m glad your Tortuga hole is working now. Mine kicks to the tip of my left flipper. I’ve gotta be ready for it. Now and again I’m too slow and it drains. But I’m cool with that, that’s my fault.

After struggling with Multiballs ever since I set this game up I thought “screw it” and lowered the pitch from a whopping 6.55 to 6.5. The nose of the bubble used to be just above the second line, now it just meets it. Night and day. Multiballs so much more manageable. Easier BP. Less drains when going for Jack in the star map. Less drains going for Devil’s Triangle. More fun. No other game has changed this much from such a small adjustment. Really advise people to take the pitch down a little if the balls are feeling too heavy during Multiballs.

On another note, not only is my action button sticking, but so is left flipper. Pretty crap. I am actually going to change both flippers to single leaf switches. I know this means each button will now fire all flippers on either side with no independent flipper control. But don’t give a rats, I need to save my tennis elbow. The double leaf switches are way to firm for me. Yeah I’m a wimp.

Lastly, on pressing the start button the game rebooted today. I know I need to check power cable as posted, but this is the first time in 80 games. On .99 will advise if it reoccurs.

Got my first pirate hat and eyepatch today!!! Woohoo! Sorry... I meant AAAARRRRRR!!

Thanks zaphX on your flipper advice. Will see if I can change buttons and or bend the contacts slightly to make it a lighter feel.

Great to see agreement about pitch. I was loving it but was getting a bit frustrated.

The other benefit to independent flippers I guess is being able to activate bottom left whilst not activating flipper over the depths. Many times I hold the flipper down too long all the way only to have some of my shots from left flipper to chest hit the top left flipper. Very hard to tell my brain to touch and caress the button lightly when I’m so god damn excited.

Maybe I need to learn to move like Lyman to calm me down!

Solved my flipper buttons being too stiff. Used my leaf switch bending tool, and bent the leaf closest to the button so that it is almost vertical. Before it had a very aggressive bend towards the flipper button. WOW what a difference. So much easier to use, and can easily activate both upper and lower flipper independently now. New action button also installed. Very happy.

Thanks for your advice on not ripping out the layered leaf switches and replacing with a single switch. You made me realise what a bad decision that was!

My right BP opto stayed on last night making the game think I had boarded the BP on ball launch. I checked it and the opto bracket was bent. I sort of bent it back but you can see it’s still a bit malformed. It’s the one on the right:

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Damn. Broken opto. See bit of plastic sticking out. Still works. Maybe i should just tape it back down with black electrical tape...

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Yep, broken on both sides. Should’ve been made in China, then it would have lasted.

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Thanks but JJP can send me one. I’m not paying for it! Wasn’t broken by a ball. It would have been snapped on delivery. Just out of alignment now. Problem was I lost one of the screws. Bloody pest.

Good idea! I'll try that!

Hi indypinhead, in the owners thread, last page coindropper has a fix with a washer

Found out why my opto was broken on the BPs right spinner.

The VUK comes out right next to it and the playfield underneath is completely hammered. No Mylar! I would have thought this would be standard here. I did search for this, apologies if my search skills have failed.

Anyway have not put down Mylar yet. Not sure if possible after this much dimpling.

To resolve for now I have turned the BPs VUK strength down to 20. Now ejects up to black pearl nicely without the customary “THUNK” that I thought was normal.

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Yeah, it’s one of those things you see and you think “Naaahhhhhh!”

I wondered why we both had this opto broken. Mine is just hanging together with duct tape on the middle and I lost the bottom screw. Works though.

Going to miss the “THUNK” it sounded like a real pirate boarding! Arrrrrrrrr!

Yes I have had the problem happen out of the depths. Almost made me want to take the gate off. It’s not attached to any switch. Might make saves a bit too easy!

Anyway for levelling, I personally feel that a phone is not reliable no matter what the app. I think it’s too small. I found a 25cm digital level which can be calibrated and is cheap. Here is the one in Australia, US eBay should have an equivalent.

ebay.com link: 0

Here is a pic. 25cm is long enough to give a truer reading but short enough to fit on most parts of playfield.

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Attention all people with new games!

Turn down power of Black Pearl ship VUK to 20 or whatever is the lowest setting to be able to board the BP. If you don’t your orbit at the back of the Pearl behind the spinners will look like the moon. It can also break the opto next to the VUK exit.

Turn down slings to 16. And also take a couple of points of both lower flippers. You will have a lot less playfield damage if you do this.

Install some Mylar at the back of the Pearl as shown. Clean with medical rubbing alcohol first. The little medi swabs are ideal.

Photos show before Mylar, my cut out and after. It may slow down the orbit behind the spinners. Most of the area needs to be covered since the ball lands left and right of VUK since the Pearl rocks.
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No it did not. If I’m the only one without it, then that’s a good thing. I guess it’s best to check. I mean the damage is hidden, but best to avoid. But both Harry and I had broken opto from a over excited VUK.

I sent them an email letting them know it is a problem. Hopefully they take note and turn it down in the next s/w release. Did you have the Mylar installed under the VUK?

Left beacon flasher next to maelstrom just stopped working. Sigh..... checked wiring underneath. Looks like I have to remove whole left ramp. Happy days.

Yes you need it levelled for the ship VUK to work. I had that problem. A bit steeper would be ok. But I find the game is too hard greater than 6.5. Nose of bubble on 2 nd line.

I thought this and had a new one sent. The one in there is the same as this. I could not find a different clear flipper button.

2nd one I received started doing the same thing.

Solution. Take button out, and remove screw at bottom. Hold outer casing and bash the center lightly from the bottom of the button. the inside will come out. Find any burrs, they are usually on the side of the button that sticks out where we bash. File these down smooth with a small nail file. I just polished mine off. All fixed. Gunk can also get in there from time to time. This will fall out when you take it apart. I don't think you will find a flipper button with 0 maintenance. They were never designed to face straight up. Angle is slightly different, so any burrs are noticeable and gunk will get in there.

Fair enough. I stand corrected. My replacement was sent by my Australian distributor. Did not realise there are 2 different buttons out there. Mine is working fine now that I removed the small burr. As for the action of this other button, it costs $15 AUD to get it. I have repaired mine and they work. Will see how they go.

Check your right opto on the right spinner on the pearl. Mine was broken and any vibration would set it off. I was boarding all day. It's the VUK behind it that's the culprit. It smashes balls into the opto. Turn it down to 20. I have a temporary fix for my opto, I just twisted the bottom until it was aligned.

too quick!!

Check the right spinner opto, 3 of us have had ours snapped in the middle. If it is, Twist the bottom half so it is aligned correctly.

Here was mine.

And yes, the powerful VUK broke it.

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I don't know about the inner loop. If I hit it right mine goes around like a dream! If I'm a bit off, I guess it goes clunk and then falls down to the pops or somewhere else. I get the ship magnet taking it sometimes at weird moments.

But if it goes around nicely 3 - 4 times, and then I get a clunky shot.... isn't it me sucking more than anything else? I mean I'm the king of getting it to bounce around under the chest or piddling around in the star map area without doing anything.

One thing that does confuse me is how it determines if I get a map award on launch, sometimes I do a crappy loop first and it gives it to me, other times I do an awesome loop and into the map and nothing! Maybe these are the inconsistencies that Keefer is going to adjust.

I guess for me if I'm playing well, the inner loop is spot on, if I'm not it's clunky as hell. But I find this also for the chest, star map..... Some games I curse at the maelstrom.... just cant seem to hit it!

On a side note, I have had the maelstrom switch seem to trigger when I get the devils triangle. Will check my switches.

Ouch! Have you been stowing too much treasure??? You naughty pirate!!

You should be covered by warranty. If not, an angle and some rivets! So easy for a spot weld to break like that. Yep, getting me some perfectplays.

Wish I could get me some booty...

Just worked out why I had a few issues.

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Yep, it’s been fully accepted by the whole family now. Brothers, Australian Spotted Mist. Charlie, the lighter one, always gets up on top of the glass at an inopportune moment. Likes to have his but on the glass during multiballs. Best place to sit right on top of the flippers.

Don’t give Jjp any ideas! Incredibles or Megaminf I could handle. I know wrong thread!!!

Agree. It’s always good to have certain shots that are only achievable from a certain flipper but at the same time have certain shots shareable and most importantly equal importance of each flipper. Nothing worse than having a redundant flipper in a game. I think Eric did a great job. I like having enough outside tip shots for both flippers Devil’s Triangle and depths vs tortuga and extra ball. Then still some challenging closer shots for each flipper, maelstrom and open sea. I still find the left ramp cannot be taken for granted. Then the two easy shots port royal and the BP ramp. I love port royal. Unless that damn post is up. Always a surprise when you hit it for the first time. Like WTF! But in a good way.

Chest is far easier from right, but if I’m concentrating can be flipped from left - just need to clear the upper flipper. I always feel like such a dick when I hit it. Side note bayou is easiest left ball cradled and just keep flipper held up. Pirate target is deadly. Chest as discussed narrows so anything but a sweet spot will bounce around in there and lose momentum. Star map is one of the easiest, as it should be. But needs a good hit or it will not register. Can only be done with left flipper or sometimes top flipper.

Upper flipper is unreal. Eric’s game really shines here. Inner loop, map and gold targets. So much to do and so fun to shoot. Much prefer it to TSPPs. I need to practice getting enough loops going and then hold open to automatically hit lots of gold. HAHAAAA GOLD!!!!

So going back to symmetry great how there’s 2 good ways to feed to the upper flipper during OST Multiball. Chest shot and open sea. One for each flipper. Chest shot I find easier to feed upper flipper. Or just get it somewhere up there and hope upper flipper can reach (not as satisfying).

Black pearl flippers. Loading cannon I mainly use left but do get it with right when I can see sway of ship and movement of ball is all aligned. I do find the only load cannon I can use is the target on the left, while cradling with the left. It does seem to hit the cannon door a lot. Not sure if this will cause maintenance problems later on. I think the load on the right is too hard to hit and mine seems to lack sensitivity. I need to adjust. Cotton is harder to hit than Marty. I need to hit the spot gold and bonus x targets more I seem to ignore these. Sinking ships too much fun. I think the cannon door is meant to be closed even after the load until you hit the cannon door again?

Oh and if I have to collect anyone in the open sea, sometimes I cheat and just let it fall overboard to trigger. Hopefully they don’t remove this cheat in a code update. Shhhhhh.

My pitch is 6.5, did not like steeper due to all balls draining during Multiball. I suck. Both flippers taken down by 2 from default.

No other game has me thinking about how to feed flippers like this one.

Agree. Better than ripping farts on the couch. Seriously though it seems like the default action for that flipper. So easy to get the loops into muscle memory. Thank Eric for making this happen.

Thanks for destroying the momentum of discussing awesome flipper and flow design Harry. How dare you bring up issues in the troubleshooting thread!!! Sigh.

Bon appetit!

Trying to decide between kraken blades from Tilt vs pirate blades from pingraffix. I think the kraken ones look a bit moodier. The pingraffix might be too bright, too much yellow?

https://www.pingraffix.com/product-page/pirates-of-the-caribbean-pinblades-jersey-jack-pinball

https://www.tiltgraphicsinc.com/product-page/jjp-pirates-of-the-caribbean-the-kraken-gameblades

Thoughts?

happy??

I'm leaning to it as well. I think the Pingraffix one is fantastic the way it ties in with the apron, has the sea at the height of the playfield, and probably looks good at the front of the cabinet. But it is a lot of yellow. Maybe they should have transitioned it to stormy weather near the back. I think the kraken is nice and moody.

Will let the wife decide.

My ball was escaping the maelstrom. If your's never escapes the ramp then you're good to go. Took both of mine down because of the ramp escapes.

I will check my backhanding up the pearl.

It’s not just different pitch, I believe control of flipper strength was mainly put in due to voltage or ampage (I always get it mixed up) variations that can happen from area to area. This was explained to me. Maybe someone smarter can shed some light. Just check when you can make all shots without the ball escaping ramps etc. there is no one setting for the same pitch for all locations.

Thank you sir!!

I could no longer backhand it. Took it up one notch. Works a treat!

Mine was sticking out a bit too. As I was putting two thin washers underneath the lower left, I noticed this extra hole. Do you think this was used for opening and closing the chest? Sorry if this has been pointed out before.

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Just had a ripper of a game where the slings propelled the ball over into the dreaded “I” lane. Anyway not the first time this has happened. Fixed it. Don’t care if it looks ugly.

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Also noticed that you can’t see the shooter tip. Changed it. Now I can.

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Yeah me too!!

I changed the lights to point more infield. They were quite loose.

Liked the idea about the toy.

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I was trying to resolve my SDTM drains after star map chapter selected and the post drops. As others have noted it happens when the ball is stuck between the retractable post and the post to the left. My ball was wedged so close to the front it was almost escaping the star map. Other have stated this happens as the rubber wears. Mine is not that worn. Anyway did some investigating. The post to the left of the star map with the sling rubber was not tightened. At all. Moved the post over as much to the right as it would go and tightened up. Seems better now. Ball does not get wedged as much. Still a bit dangerous there. Maybe to resolve this in coding, rather than a ball save which seems contentious with other owners, the magnet could start kicking the ball around a bit sooner before the post drops. That means the ball is being affected by the magnet for a longer time before it is let go. Currently it’s just a small pulse which is not always sufficient to move the ball far enough. This small pulse just lifts the wedged ball slightly before it drains SDTM. This wedging of the ball between the posts will happen more as the sling rubber wears. I have requested JJP to add this extra magnet time. Not sure if it will be ignored.

If you’re finding the ball is getting wedged at the front left, check that the post is tightened down and not loose. Also double check levels. I found to get a straight level section, the word “CHEST” is the only reference point which is straight. Line you spirit level up with the top of these letters.

I was close to doing this. Then I realised it would make the star map entrance 8mm narrower. Stuff that!! It is a solution though. Could be done just on the front left like I was thinking, but still 4mm narrower. Ever played golf where you think to yourself “now just miss that small tree in front, you have all that space on either side....”. I hit the tree every time.

Not sure if I have a problem with my Maelstrom Diverter. I have noticed the spring does not always pull it up to the top rest spot. Sometimes it’s a few millimetres down. When the ball hits the ramp, most times it pushes the diverter up as it does around. But if it’s a weak ball, it seems to knock it into the depths. Not all the time, but it does happen. Also, I tried to put on the Kraken mod and it pushes the diverter down so that the diverter is no longer at maximum height. With the Kraken on, the ball does not have enough clearance underneath. I could try to move the whole diverter down a few mill but this may cause other problems. Bit stumped.

Can send pictures later. Playing now. Without the kraken.

Just checked with ship not attached to motor. Ball on my magnetic thing does not touch said bracket. Why are you pushing against rail? There is no give in mine whilst installed with plastic on top.

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Nope plastic does nothing. But there is a screw in the rail about 2 inches before it. You must be pressing pretty hard. Also inner loop misses that spot. Only hit from open sea or port royal.

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I agree! Was just trying to find alternatives as there are a few on pinside who keep telling me it never happens and/or ball save is not necessary. Good to see someone talk some sense into me. Ok back to a ball save, just like we have for Multiball. Thank you!!

You sure you have not advanced the Pearl by doing the BP skill shot? That advances the Multiball.

To tell you the truth I have not used that skill shot for ages, so my memory is a bit rusty. Just remember I used to not be able to hit the dauntless until I changed the hex spacers. Until then I think I was confused how I was starting the BP Multiball without sinking the dauntless. It could be this simple or something else.

Mine was already slightly ground. Whether that was from the ball hitting it!

As I said I don’t think this affects inner loop shots just the 2 orbits.

Will definitely do it later on. May even be able to get to it without stripping down completely. Will check when replace rubber in star map.

Just be clear, this does not affect inner loop. Just open sea and port royal. It could be yours never hits, it may be a case by case. Mine looked like it was ground already. It is probably a good idea to grind it down like Harry has when working under the pearl.

Well the other explanation is s/w! What shot do you believe it is Open Sea or Port Royal? It is more the inner loop that goes to the pearl more than I think it should. And I think Keefer is adjusting this in code?

Port royal does go up there a lot by design and I think the force of the ball would be lessened at this point being near the end of the loop. Also the inertia would mean it would have to bounce backwards. Just thinking a strong ball on that trajectory if it was strong enough to deform the metal is not going to do a 90 degree turn into that hole. I have had the diverter down on the maelstrom and when the ball is strong enough it happily runs along it, skips across the hole to the other side and continues down the ramps wireform.

I think a small protrusion like this is going to nick the ball and divert slightly of its course then back onto the orbit. Don’t think it would make it do a 90 degree turn. For either outer orbit.

Think it’s software.

Agree to grind the bracket down whilst you’ve got the pearl off.

Not me! I think you mean Harry. He has been a busy boy at the moment.

There’s one on the black pearl rod that sticks out the back of the playfield. Just before the pin goes in from the vertical straight that comes from the motor. All behind the playfield. Probably dropped off the rod when you took the black pearl out.

Let me know if you need me to pull the playfield forward and take a photo.

Awesome! Thank you so much! Just thought this was normal.

I did that. It smells nice doesn’t it!

I have that too. I thought “huh?” Maybe it was something that got dropped from then prototype.

Is your table levelled? Also make sure a ball can fit under the diverter so it is touching the wall of the maelstrom all the way round. If you have the kraken mod you may need to pack it up slightly so the ball will be able to clear.

Installed my pearl opto shield supplied by JJP!

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Nice!!!!!! Yours is definitely more special!

My t nut is only showing a bit through the wood on the wall. Nothing extending under playfield and the deflector seems to hit first as you say. My balls are nice and shiny!!! Definitely think it will depend on how you nut sits.

Make sure no sdtm on ball launch. Adjust upper left flipper if it does so that ball launch will hit middle of right lower flipper. Turn down ship VUK to about 20 to protect your optos and or make a nice protector like other poster. Make sure everything level and at 6.5.

If you struggle sinking ships you may need to add shorter hex spacers. Anyway check the start of the troubleshooting thread. PinMonk has a great index going.

Also the washer on launch and the orbit has an angle that sticks out a bit.

Yes they sent me a new opto and the protector. I think you are about the seventh person on pinside to report it. Everyone turn their black pearl VUK down. Ask for a shield as well

zaphX why do you continue to tell people not to turn down the black pearl VUK? You have seen evidence that the default setting breaks the opto. Just because it has not for you does not mean it is not for others. The advice is to turn the pearls VUK to the lowest setting that reliably gets the ball onto the ship. If you set it too low and it doesn’t then turn it up until it does board successfully every time. Mine is set to 20, boards every time and does not leave dents in my upper deck nor smash into the optos anymore. Over 5 pinsiders have reported broken optos caused by the default VUK setting. But you continue to tell people not to turn it down. Why? Does not make sense.

If you need more proof here is a email from Steve:

“Might want to turn down the coil setting for the Black Pearl VUK as that seems to be breaking the opto housing when turned up too high according to the Design Team. Thanks, Steve”

Other coils to adjust:

1) if your slings are causing air balls turn them down to minimum setting. Particularly if you are now using star posts around your slings.
2) if a kick out from the depths is getting caught on the “I” lane, turn it down 1 point. Just be careful that it still kicks out.
3) if your balls are launching out of the maelstrom you may want to turn down flipper strength by a point. Be careful as you still want to be able to backhand to the pearl.

I understand @zaphX’s sentiment that if it ain’t broke don’t fix it. Changing these coils for no reason by large amounts will make the game play differently than it was intended. As mentioned though even JJP admit that the default setting for the BP VUK is too high in most instances and is causing upper playfield and component damage.

Funny thing while we are mentioning what we do and don’t do. Have not waxed since I own the game. AFM waited a year until I did it. Other games maybe once a year. Don’t see the need.

I’m struggling with this spotlight. It is either pushing up the launch ramp if too far to the right or trapping balls beside tortuga Tom. And it goes out all the time from the vibrations. I think I need to take launch ramp off and bend the angle plus maybe put some washers underneath.

This is the culprit. Anybody else had similar issues?

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bloody stupid place for a spot.

Thanks. I tried this before and it lifted the ball launch wireform. Now I have launch issues for the first time. Ball hardly makes it around orbit.

Thanks @zaphx. Did not think I had an issue until this damn light but maybe I do. Will check. Auto plunge is quick.

Yep. That’s what happened to me. But also I get the stuck ball when move it back. Funny watching it go out every time a ball would shoot past it. I have not experienced that many problems really, but I think JJP could have put better spots in. Just my opinion.

Fixed the spot. Just got my long nose pliers and bent the thing up a bit. Now in the right spot and does not hinder the ball. Also light is not touching ramp. No more flickering and turning off.

Thanks zaphX it was simply the new tip I put on which was a beige colour so I could see it for skill shots. The tip is slightly pushed off centre. Rotated the rod and works fine now. Will keep an eye on it. May need to go for a more durable tip.

Love the game. Makes me cranky when something goes wrong with it though!!!

Here’s a picture of the bent spot mount. Only needs a little. I think it’s good mounted pointing towards Tortuga. Otherwise it’s pointing into open sea. I like that to stay dark and mysterious!

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Sounds like it’s not even getting to the VUK as Soulrider911 would hear it fire. But I agree with you. Don’t want it too low or no black pearl action. It’s finding the spot between boarding successfully and not bashing into stuff up there.

I have had large delays on rare occasions when it is not boarding or doing anything. This happened all the time when I first got the game because it was not levelled correctly. Too high a pitch will mean that the subway to the black pearl does not work. I have to check whether I have anything that could stop it rolling in the subway.

Yours sounds like it isn’t even making it into the subway. Like the magnet is catching and then releasing back to the open sea. How are your levels? How often does it happen? Would be good to see if you can replicate it.

They definitely do need to adjust how that magnet works in terms of affecting inner loops.

Damn. You beat me to it.

Just changed my isolator. Made things worse. Now I get a high pitched whine when it starts up. And the pops during gameplay are still there. Would be great if this clipping or popping could be fixed. Alas I don’t think there is any solution.

Here is where I put the isolator. If anyone can tell me what I’m doing wrong, appreciated. At the bottom of cpu box going in green socket . At the top of the box going into purple socket . I think this is for speakers. Or am I doing the head phone one?

Before, isolator behind right speaker
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After
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Where I am plugging from, then to green socket at bottom of cpu
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