Pirates of the Caribbean
Jersey Jack, 2018
Pirates of the Caribbean (CE)
Jersey Jack, 2018
Pirates of the Caribbean (LE)
Jersey Jack, 2018You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider f3honda4me.
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Quoted from wesman:Oh man! These are fantastic detailed posts! Really glad you took the initiative and put in all this work.
Thank you vireland!
A lot of these were written by @zaphx so credit should be given. 
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jjp-pirates-of-the-caribbean-official-owners-and-fan-club/page/81#post-4843189
Quoted from joseph5185:Let's see how successful this ends up being.
I think the natural transition will be a slow one over the next several weeks/months, but hopefully successful in the end. We'll probably have to keep re-directing people over here.
The post that has this link in it (in the other thread) should be a key post.
I can do that for whatever it helps
Quoted from joseph5185:Right. I knew that. (I really did.)
Okay then. Replace the forks? Maybe?
Probably just need to adjust the position.
Quoted from BC_Gambit:Maybe. But on my shooter wireform there was a clear point of contact robbing energy from the ball. I could feel the ball hitting one of the flat support wireforms hard. And another one very slightly. Knock on wood but that was 100 percent of my shooter issues.
Yep also another possibility.
Quoted from joseph5185:Random question ...
There is a molex connector that doesn't have a friend (unplugged) towards the bottom of the coin door.
What's that about?
For dollar bill payment or ticket dispenser, etc.
Quoted from KornFreak28:How long did it take approx?
When I did mine it took maybe 15 minutes. It's a pretty easy install.
Quoted from PinMonk:What are your coil strength numbers for each flipper?
For the spinner, likely a loose connection or bad motor. I'd check for voltage at the connector first. I actually don't like that both the barrels spin the same way and will probably reverse the upper one this week for a little more visual variety.
On the map hole, a common mistake with the cliffies is torquing the posts or screws that hold it too hard, tweaking the metal so it doesn't lay flat. Does the circle in front of the hole lay flat? Did you use the activator to clean the pf there before you put it down? Did you take off the backing to the 3M adhesive on the underside of the cliffy before you put it on? Of course, none of this would be a problem if JJP would just install these necessary protectors at the factory, at least on the LEs and/or CEs.
If all that checks out, you may have rotated the deflector a little too much when you put it back together, creating ball rejects instead of dropping the balls that hit it into the hole.
He was asking about the Mystery hole, tortuga. Not the map hole.
Quoted from joseph5185:Any recommendations on which dremel to buy?
Quoted from joseph5185:Thanks for the advice. I’ll probably go with the nicer one. It’s in a nice concealed case. Things like that matter to me.
I bought mine for nothing related to pinball. And I've found various uses for it over the years for things around the house etc. They are very handle tools.
Quoted from joseph5185:It seemed like a really fun toy so I went ahead and picked one up as well as a kit for it.
I think it could be wonderful for cleaning and possibly cutting a chain link for a chandelier I'm trying to hang up.
I'll say this. They seem like VERY versatile tools and when I was in Ace hardware last night, I was completely blown away at all the attachments this thing has.
Looking forward to it...
Off the top of my head I've used it to cut bolts/nails, cut chain link for lights, cut/sand small areas of wood for some remodeling, sand down metal parts on pinball machine, sand my son's pinewood derby car, fix door jamb areas, and more I'm sure I'm forgetting.
Quoted from rs812:As an fyi to those removing the ship to put cliffys on, there is no reason to loosen or remove the bp ramp. Just remove the three screws holding the vuk, remove the vuk, and there is plenty of clearance to slide the ship back and remove it. The vuk is positively located, where as the ramp is adjustable, introducing unnecessary variables into the reassembly equation. Further, the brackets that the bp ride on are designed so that the bp is to be removed by sliding it toward the back of the machine, not forward toward the ramp.
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Nice, made this a key post, great tip!
My POTC has had hardly any issue. November 2018 build. I don’t think these issues are as wide spread as people make them out to be. Look the the MBr decal-gate as an example.
On the posts and damage around them, I wouldn’t give it much thought. Mine chipped very early on but 1,000 plays later haven’t gotten any worse.
Quoted from joseph5185:A blessing in disguise as I see it.
The BP flipper issue PROMPTLY halted any additional playing which kept games played to a minimum.
I knew the BP was going to be an ever living bitch. And it was. In many, many ways.
So, once I get that other flipper corrected, I guess I’ll have to look at this MAP hole thing.
But I’m emotionally spent for now so I’ll get to it when I get to it.
Your flipper on the BP just stopped working entirely? I thought it was just short travel that you were having. My right BP flipper has short travel, and I'll probably fix it eventually, but it does not affect gameplay much at all. Certainly not "halting" it. I can make every shot on the BP with my right flipper without issue. If I am mis-remembering your issue I apologize.
Quoted from BC_Gambit:Re: the T-nut issue:
I can see fixing it, but is it really causing undue ball damage?
Have you seen all the other things a ball can contact on this game? E.g. even the auto plunger... it is literally two pieces of rounded metal that "bash" the ball into play...
Yea the T-nut thing is a non issue in my book. The auto plunger is just like the T-nut except as you said, literally hammers the ball multiple times every game.
Quoted from joseph5185:Correct. My left flipper completely stopped working which I believe was related to the roll pin coming loose out of the flipper assembly. I fought with the bloody ship for hours this morning and it was "FUN."
Mechanically, the left flipper is "perfect." I'm only asking that the right flipper be perfect as well. I received a technical response from vireland. One I am still trying to fully interpret.
There's just "something" that REALLY bothers me about the right flipper not meeting the left. It just doesn't "look" right and I guess it's the OCD in me.
Hopefully soon I can get it corrected somehow, re-insert the ship (that's gonna be interesting...) and test.
Edit: See LTG's videos.
OR - Just ignore it. My right flipper doesn't go all the way up like my left flipper, and it makes no difference in gameplay.
Quoted from harryhoudini:FYI, a bit of detail on my looking into the audio popping/cracking at boot: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/audio-popping-on-power-on-in-jjp-games#post-4974725
As I mentioned in the other thread installing the PinWoofer amp and sub eliminated the pop for me.
Quoted from harryhoudini:Ah, I didn't see that post. From my rudimentary understanding it looks like something similar is happening with the boards they provide. I found plenty of amps like that which have soft start functions (delayed start) as well, I just wasn't sure if another amp would be warranted/needed so I was looking for a board that was simply a delay. It looks like, again I don't understand, the original audio output is broken down to line level so it can be then amplified and split to the new sub. I don't see why this would affect the startup to the speakers (it doesn't look like this solution interrupts the existing output to the speakers). Not to throw any shade, but it looks like that's about $40 worth of components at individual retail prices.
The components I am looking at, all accessories included, cost about $15-20 maybe.
I am not against just adding a woofer kit if that just "solves" the problem but I'd like to know why/how. Maybe pinwoofer would want to comment as to if this an intended result of their system and/or how/why it does this.
** also, given the way JJP games are setup the install could probably be a lot cleaner since we have 1/4" audio connectors and molex 12v power.
If you’re saying the kit I installed is $40 worth of parts, I know that’s not correct. :p And remember the PinWoofer kit is to increase bass and the quality of bass sound. Not eliminate a popping sound from stock sub.
PinWoofer maybe can provide insight on the JJP pop but he doesn’t have a game on hand to see.
Quoted from harryhoudini:I'm fairly sure that's the case, like I said, not trying to throw shade as there is development time and costs, knowledge, testing, profit needed, business costs, etc. But those amp boards and step down boards are maybe $15-20 of parts, less even wholesale, and a pyle 600w powered sub is $20. So maybe $50 with connectors and the plastic mounting board, etc.
Again, props to the creator for making the kit and doing the work but for people who have the knowledge this can be done on JJP titles pretty easily and cheaply.
**Ahhh ...no that model of sub is $40, so add $20.
Right but that’s the case with many products. People like a nice packaged kit with everything already done just plug and play. Most don’t want to source the boards, buy wiring and pieces, cut, tin, crimp all the wires, etc and so on. If someone wants to diy it that’s cool too.
Quoted from PinWoofer:There is no intended solution to power pop as a result of using our product and I don't recommend looking to our product as a solution to this problem. At the same time I would also not put it out of the realm of possibilities because it may be a timing thing (maybe coincidence, one off, if it has happened this way). If somehow the PinWoofer solves this on POTC / JJP, I'd like to thoroughly confirm it (correlate a few installs and I can dig into "why"). Also / if so, does it solve it for both the cabinet speaker and backbox?
I'd encourage you to read through the "New Amplified Subwoofer Kits by PinWoofer" thread. I get the take on cost of parts, but also want you to consider the ease of install, delivered to your door, having things exactly matched with spare connectors, tested and serialized. Our kit is common to many customers and is obscenely quick to install. All of these needles have been poked and discussed (and IV needle removed). There is room for the DIY'er and the guy who wants turnkey. We're here for the latter and just want pinball to get better like everyone. We also have product support for those who need it (some need a lot of it and that's OK). We strive to add value.
Thanks for the interesting post!
Backbox speakers still pop, but those are quiet anyways so it’s a non issue to me. PinWoofer Sub does not.
Quoted from PinWoofer:f3honda4me thanks for confirming that! Let me know if you find out more. I'll get close to my old WOZ in the near future and try that also.
My WOZ doesn’t exhibit this behavior to the extent JJPOTC does. Not sure why the pop is so loud on JJPOTC.
Quoted from harryhoudini:Out of curiosity, have you made any changes to the audio cable routing at all on POTC?
No
Great post I’d be curious to see what this leads to!
Quoted from PinWoofer:harryhoudini - I'm completely consumed with PinWoofer2 PCB development so it will be awhile before I could really give this it's due. However, for the sake of speed perhaps you could answer a few questions and try a couple of things. My sincere apologies if what I'm asking below was covered in the past 700 posts and we can take this offline if necessary. Bear with me (I'm not trying to insult anyone's intelligence on the obvious and I assume the routine wiggling of the cables and connectors/headers has been tried):
Questions / things to try:
-Is there an audio out jack on the sound card? RCA, 3.5mm phono, other that would allow you to tap the pre-amp? Have you routed this signal "off-pin" to some other stereo / amplifier to see if the popping and crackling follows the pre-amp? If the speakers remain "live" with the audio out connected you may need to disconnect them to eliminate the potential that the speakers are not a source of feedback to the sound card.
-Does the popping persist if either one of the a) cabinet speaker or 2) backbox speakers are disconnected from the sound card (just one at a time)?
-Are there filter capacitors on the backbox speakers? Have you tried disconnecting them?
-Is there a digital cable routed to the sound board? Does the crackling / popping persist when this digital cable is removed?
-Are there any other passive filter elements present on the speakers - particularly the cabinet woofer? Big inductors or capacitors? Any resistors?
-Are these factory speakers in use?
I buy amps 100 at a time I can send you a couple if it makes sense to help debug this. Determining that the pre-amp is stable over time would suggest that aftermarket amps solve some problems but seems like a patch when the real problem is elsewhere. If it helps guys to get past these audio problems it can be made an option.
Quoted from joseph5185:Sorry!
If something "doesn't look right" I'm going to question it. BUT, if it's a non-issue then great!
You need to stop obsessing over every little detail and just play it. By playing it, you'll discover if something isn't working right. THEN you can fix it. :/
Quoted from harryhoudini:Hallelujah! I can make a tortuga hole shot now!! I'm not totally inept at pinball!
The replacement tortuga hole cover (snubber bracket) solves the issue!! Can't comment on the STDM yet, but the launch trajectory is definitely different.
New on left
[quoted image]
Closeup
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Oh and thanks to Steve at JJP for taking care of this so damn quick.
I’ve been trying to get one ever since they came out. But I never get an answer to my ticket or email or call. 
Edit: bracket is on the way!! Thanks to JJP support for reaching out.
Quoted from joseph5185:My patience is running out on this pin.
Like. I'm trying really hard. I know I get teased for over-obsessing, overthinking, or w/e, but I keep running into legitimate things that is hindering me from actually enjoying this game.
And I WANT to...
Not trying to be mean, but it’s a complex game and probably not the best first ever pin. BP gate probably just needs a quick bend to fix. We told you not to use chrome balls and you did anyways. :pQuoted from joseph5185:Maybe zaphx. Maybe.
I won't flood the thread again, but check it out.
Had a minor issue with the flipper again and just tighten the pawl nut, right? Nope. It's never that easy - at least not for me. Again, whatever. So the pawl nut is tight and I go to manually flip the flipper and "somehow" it's not connected. No clue.
It will be easier to take the top off as well to check out the left BP spinner as well.
It's okay. I'm an expert now at taking off and putting on the BP.
Later.
You don’t remove the BP to fix the spinner. Just the piece covering the spinner. I’m guessing you just accidentally tweaked it when you had the BP off before.
Quoted from joseph5185:I shouldn’t have to.
See how that works...
Good night!
Uh - then you're in the wrong hobby. In pinball, stuff happens. I'm willing to bet you bent it when you had the pearl off, but even if it came that way from the factory, it's a quick 30 second fix. But instead, you demand perfection and waste JJP's time. I'm not wasting any more time on someone who refuses to help themselves.
Just got a brand new IMDN premium that had a broken flipper rubber and a spinner that needed some adjusting to spin correctly. It happens with all games.
A correction on this. You do not need to remove the #1 philips screws as a first step in order to remove Tom. There is a hole in the side of his barrel you can stick a hex wrench or driver through to get at the hidden hex.
Quoted from PinMonk:PROBLEM: Tortuga saucer sending the ball SDTM
SOLUTION: Most likely the ball deflector/guide at the back of the Tortuga saucer is loose or mis-aligned. Remove Tortuga Tom and loosen the pop bumper to gain access to the two phillips screws for the deflector that's slightly under the pop bumper skirt. Aim the guard a bit to the left. Test and ensure the scoop fires into the middle of the left flipper. Consider blue loctite to make the fix permanent.
Here's how you get the pop bumper apart to gain access to the two screws:
This is the deflector that you may need to tighten and/or adjust the direction it's pointing:
[quoted image]
These are the screws you need to tighten once the deflector is where you want it:
[quoted image]
There's a single #1 phillips screw each at the front and back of the barrel you need to remove:
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
Once the barrel is off, you see a mounting plate, but the hex set screw that holds it on is hidden underneath it. Feel for it and use a hex wrench to loosen it, then slide the mounting plate up and off:
[quoted image]
This is a better look at the set screw once the plate is off:
[quoted image]
There are now two motor screws to remove. READ THE NEXT STEP BEFORE DOING THIS ONE:
[quoted image]
Under each screw holding the motor on, there's a nylon spacer. Be careful to hold the spacer as you lift the screw out so you don't lose the spacer in the machine:
[quoted image]
Lift the motor up a bit and set it to the side, which will expose the screws for the pop bumper. LOOSEN, DO NOT REMOVE THEM. Once loose, you can raise the skirt in the front where the two screws are for the deflector and tighten/adjust as-needed:
[quoted image]
Reverse the process to put it all back together.
Don’t mess with the ramps. Instead remove the black pearl VUK by the back of the ship. Much easier to do than messing with ramps and also makes removing pearl a lot easier.
Quoted from DrDQ:Rob,
The two parts you show are for the Back of The Map Hole and for the front edge of the Depths. The Depths you can snap in place.
For the Tortuga Hole; you don’t need to remove the pop number. You should Tortuga Tom (need a small Allen wrench) and then you can loosen up the Pop Bumper enough to lift up the skirt to get to the screws. Just be carefull of the two small nylon spacers after you take off Tortuga Tom.
For the MAP hole you need to remove the ship.
MicsirTuna has a great Buffalo Pinball Twitch video on removing the ship.
Here are my notes from his video;
Pirate Ship Removal and Replacement
1. Flip Playfield.
2. Disconnect 7 cables;
3. Label connectors: 1 and 2 are larger white connectors (9 and 12 Pin). Next is Ethernet lighting R45( J908), 3 is 2 Pin connector power to right, 5,6,7 all go to board on right; J2, J3, J4 (should have colored dots for connectors as they are not keyed connectors) but write J2,J3,J4
4. Feed through so they do not get tangled
5. Lower Playfield
6. Loosen up right ramp wire form at bottoms of wire form Don’t have to remove nuts
7. Remove right wire form and set aside
8. Loosen right ramp; screw or on right by short side. Don’t remove screw
9. Remove screws at bottoms of ramp by flaps.
10. Ship Removal: 1) Allen Bolt behind BP,- Loosen Screw and then use hand to twist and remove without dropping. 2)Remove Cotton Pin behind BackBoard and washer and connector from Post. Pull Post through slot towards Playfield
11. Pull ship back so it comes off horizontal post through front eyelet underneath ship. Then can pull front up. Then jiggle or pull ship forward so it comes off of back eyelet. Watch out for BP VUK on back right as you need to clear that when bringing out.
12. Pull ship up and bring wires through. Careful with underneath of ship. Rest ship on pillow etc ; top side of ship down on pillow.
1. Putting Ship Back gets tricky.
2. Hold Ship and feed cables back through the hole. Make sure they go through the hole.
3. Bring Playfield in. Will be tricky to get posts through the eyelets. Try back eyelet first slide back In then can slide forward over front eyelet. Slide forward to stay on
4. Get shoulder bolt back on . Hold ship forward. This is tricky Try not to drop screw
5. Put washer in against back wood. And put clip back in.
6. Reattach ramp with flap screws. Make sure leaf switch under ramp is not getting caught.
7. Put back wireform. Angle in from top.
Quoted from Mr_G_Hosting:I read a few posts about flickering topper and spotlights.
Followed up every tip/fix I could find but no succes for
me...
My topper is flickering too but when it does ALL the spotlights
and the ledstrip on the left side of the BP ramp flicker too.
At the exact same time. And it happens irregular but A LOT
and all the time.
Is anyone having the same problem or are all the spotlights
and ledstrip supposed to flicker in sync with the topper??
Normal far as i know. Only happens while playing, right?
Quoted from LTG:These flipper assemblies are used by a few manufacturers. Wouldn't hurt to check them on any new game.
LTG : )
Agreed. My last two stern NIB has this issue. It happens no biggie.
More than 60 days for cliffys right now. I ordered mine about 60 days ago and have not gotten them yet, and from what I’ve read he’s about 3 months behind.
Quoted from Nepi23:Sorry to ask a question from beside your point, but how did you access the screw tying the chest to the playfield under the chest? Did you have to use some spesific tool?
No special tool other than a nut driver.
Quoted from joseph5185:Okay guys..
Update!
My plunger is 100%. Like I full plunged a good 30 times and those forks didn't move. Period. SO HAPPY!
And my action button came in so working on replacing that now as well.
Edit: The playfield wasn't completely seated... ='(.
Double Edit: On a plus note, it helped me realize that I have the height issue. I had the bottom screw as low as it would go and I can see where the plunger is grazing the top. So I'll work on that fix.
Triple Edit: IT'S FIXED! ... No, for real this time. I used the felt tape that you would align the bottom of the machine with x4 on each side. Idk if it's the most efficient solution, but at least the look matches. Time to move on!
=)
I upvoted because edit button!
Quoted from harryhoudini:HEH!
It's gotta be a long, narrow tool with a magnetic tip. I used a 1/4" magnetic nut driver with a really long extension on my drill. Not sure if one of my nut drivers would have reached, but I didn't try.
Are we talking about the same thing? It's just the 5 screws underneath. No extension tool should be needed. Just a regular nut driver. Magnetic is nice but not required.
Quoted from harryhoudini:Probably not. I was talking about (and I thought responding to) removing the chest. For me it was the chest bracket held in place at one point by the starmap plastic (one mounting point from the chest to the bracket, and the bracket sits on two posts under the plastic) and then another point on the playfield to the left rear of the chest. You have to thread a narrow, long bit behind the chest (in front of the chest lock solenoid).
Here is the screw in question:[quoted image]
I’m an idiot. I thought he was talking about the forks. You were right I was wrong!
Quoted from kcZ:Thanks... Explains why the 6.3v light that I swapped in popped so quickly. Now to find a 12v bulb in my stash.. That and make darn sure the original was bad but I'm awfully sure it was.
If you need one I have spares.
Quoted from EaglePin:I don't recall a specific "how to" step-by-step guide for it, but it's definitely been discussed in general. You have to take the Pearl off in order to remove the plastic above the sling. When you do go to make the change to the sling, if your machine doesn't already have a post sleeve on the post at the left front entrance to the star map area (the same post the sling rubber connects to) you might want to put a sleeve on it. Putting the sleeve on requires the same steps to remove the Pearl and the plastic, so you might as well do it while you're there anyway. The sleeve then protects the corner of that sling rubber from direct hits so it won't need to be changed very often.
Yep black pearl coming off is a given for right side. Left side do you have to remove the chest? Or is it just the shield plastics. I'll figure it out, just trying to determine how much time I'm going to need. I actually dont have to replace the rubber yet as the game is like new, but I need to adjust leaf switches that are far too tight.
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